JP2024024786A - Composite false-twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabric including the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite false-twisted yarn, which prevents deep dyed parts and pale dyed parts from becoming indistinct even after combining fibers and has a splashed pattern-like appearance having excellent feeling with soft surface feeling and excellent gradation effect unobtainable with a conventional false-twisted yarn by being used in a woven or knitted fabric and dyed, and the woven or knitted fabric.

SOLUTION: A composite false-twisted yarn includes at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns and has fiber opening parts. At least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns has untwisted parts and non-untwisted parts. There are one or more and 15 or less of the fiber opening parts with length of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, one or more and 15 or less of the fiber opening parts with length of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and one or more and 10 or less of the fiber opening parts with length of 50 mm or more in the 30 fiber opening parts in the composite false-twisted yarn. A woven or knitted fabric includes the composite false-twisted yarn.

SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

COPYRIGHT: (C)2024,JPO&INPIT

Description

The present invention relates to a composite false twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric containing the same.

Conventionally, composite false twisted yarns have been widely used in the clothing field, and various proposals have been made to give them a soft, crisp texture and a natural-looking heathered appearance.

For example, a method for producing partially fused polyester false-twisted yarn that has both a strongly twisted yarn-like texture and a pale kasuri-like appearance by partially fused and false-twisted multifilament yarn made of thick and thin polyester yarn. has been proposed (for example, see Patent Document 1).

In addition, a polyester partially fused yarn has been proposed that, when knitted, woven and dyed, becomes a fabric having a heathered pattern effect, bulkiness, and crisp spun-like texture (see, for example, Patent Document 2).

Furthermore, in order to provide knitted fabrics with excellent snagging resistance without sacrificing soft texture or stretchability, low-torque interlaced yarns composed of two or more types of false-twisted crimped yarns have been proposed. (For example, see Patent Document 3).

Japanese Patent Application Publication No. 11-222743 Patent No. 11-200167 Patent No. 5155162

However, the polyester partially fused false-twisted yarn described in Patent Document 1 has non-untwisted portions and untwisted portions in the longitudinal direction by fusing multifilament yarns made of the above thick and thin polyester yarns. There was no variation, and the dark dyed part and light dyed part with respect to the yarn length had a uniform and monotonous appearance, and it was not possible to obtain a smudge-like appearance with an excellent high gradation effect.

In addition, the multifilament crimped yarn described in Patent Document 2, which has thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, has thick parts and small parts alternately formed at random pitches, and has fused parts, but darkly dyed parts The light dyed area had a monotonous appearance, and it was not possible to obtain a smudge-like appearance with a high degree of gradation effect.

According to the findings of the present inventors, it was found that the monotonous appearance in the above two examples is due to the fact that both are made of one multifilament yarn.

On the other hand, the proposal of Patent Document 3, which is an interlaced interlaced yarn composed of two or more types of false twisted crimped yarns, has two or more types of yarn, although the appearance is complicated. The interlaced parts and short non-entangled parts of the yarn alternately exist at approximately the same intervals, and the cycle of darkly dyed parts and light dyed parts in the longitudinal direction of the yarn after compounding becomes short, so marbling occurs in places where interlacing is concentrated. It was not possible to obtain a Kasuri-like appearance with excellent gradation effect and a linen-like crisp feel.

The present invention is an attempt to solve the above-mentioned problems, and is a composite material that has an excellent texture with a linen-like crisp feel, a soft and soft surface touch, and a kasuri-like appearance with an excellent gradation effect. An object of the present invention is to provide a false twisted yarn and a woven or knitted fabric containing the same.

As a result of studies to solve the above problems, the inventor of the present invention found that by making two thermoplastic multifilament yarns have a specific length at the spread portion, it is possible to impart excellent texture and surface feel. This discovery led to the present invention. That is, the present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the above problems.
(1) A composite false twisted yarn containing at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns and having a spread portion, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns has an untwisted portion and a non-untwisted portion. In the composite false twisted yarn, the length of the 30 spread portions is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 1 or more and 15 or less, and the number of the 30 spread portions in the composite false twisted yarn is 1 or more and 15 or less is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. , 1 to 10 composite false twisted yarns having a length of 50 mm or more.
(2) The composite fabric according to (1) above, wherein in at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns having the untwisted part and the untwisted part, a part of the untwisted part is fused. Twisted yarn.
(3) The composite false twisted yarn according to (1) or (2) above, wherein the length of the untwisted portion is 2 to 20 mm.
(4) The composite false twisted yarn according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a cationically dyeable polyester multifilament yarn.
(5) The thermoplastic multifilament yarn contains titanium oxide, and the concentration of the titanium oxide is 0.2 to 5.0% by mass with respect to the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, (1) to (4) above. ).
(6) The number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 2 or more and 45 or less/m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is 30 or less/m. , the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of (1) to (5) above.
(7) A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of (1) to (6) above.

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain an excellent texture with a crisp feel, a soft surface touch feeling, and a smudge-like appearance with an excellent gradation effect.

FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram illustrating one embodiment of a preferred method for producing a composite false twisted yarn of the present invention.

The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention includes at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns. It may be three or more yarns including thermoplastic multifilament yarns or other yarns. As the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, thermoplastic synthetic fibers are preferred. Examples of polymers constituting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn include polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polylactic acid, polyolefins such as polypropylene, polycarbonates, and polyesters such as polylactic acid. Mention may be made of polymers such as acrylates, polyamides, polyurethanes, polyphenylene sulfides, and mixtures of one or more of their copolymers. It is a preferred embodiment of the present invention to use a copolymer at least in part, since it improves the soft feel of the surface to the touch.

In the present invention, the at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns may be made of the same polymer as described above, but in order to emphasize the smudge-like appearance, even if the same polymer is used, it may be dyed with different heat dyeing properties. A combination of composite textured yarns of plastic multifilament yarns is preferred, and a combination of different polymers is more preferred. Further, it is more preferable that at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a cationic dye dyeable multifilament yarn (hereinafter, "cationic dyeability" may be referred to as "cationic dyeability"). In addition, "non-stainable with cationic dyes" which has substantially no dyeability with cationic dyes may be simply referred to as "non-stainable with cationic dyes"). Cationic dyeability is preferable because it not only makes it easier to obtain a smudge-like appearance but also improves the soft feeling to the touch of the surface. Here, the term "different in dyeability" means that a color difference occurs between fiber types when dyed under dyeing conditions that allow at least one type of fiber to be dyed. Moreover, the cationic dye dyeable multifilament yarn refers to a yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye.

These thermoplastic multifilament yarns contain inorganic materials such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, optical brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers. It may contain various additives. In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to include titanium oxide in terms of surface touch feeling. The concentration of titanium oxide is preferably 0.2 to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.2 to 3.0% by mass, based on the multifilament yarn containing titanium oxide. By setting the titanium oxide concentration ratio to 0.2% by mass or more, the number of protrusions on the thread surface increases, and the touch feeling when made into fabric is further improved. On the other hand, by setting the titanium oxide concentration ratio to 5.0% by mass or less, the protrusions on the thread surface can be appropriately controlled and a soft surface touch feeling can be easily obtained. In addition, problems such as abrasion of guides and rollers during spinning and manufacturing processes can be easily suppressed.

In addition to a perfect circular cross-sectional shape, the cross-sectional shapes of fibers include flat cross-sections, polygonal cross-sections such as triangles, squares, hexagons, and octagons, daruma cross-sections with some uneven parts, Y-shaped cross-sections, and star-shaped cross-sections. Various cross-sectional shapes can be taken.

The polymer constituting the cationically dyeable polyester multifilament yarn preferably used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but may include, for example, copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate, which is obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonic acid group. Cationically dyeable polyethylene terephthalate can be preferably used. As the isophthalic acid component having a sulfonic acid group, commonly used ones may be used. Specifically, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl ester, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid diethyl ester, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid diglycol ester, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium Examples include sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl ester, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid diethyl ester, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalic acid diglycol ester, etc. A mixture of these may be used, but it is effective in improving dyeability and easy to obtain. Dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and diglycol 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate are preferred.

The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention includes at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns, preferably at least one of which is a cationically dyeable polyester multifilament yarn; It is more preferable that Moreover, it is preferable that a part of the untwisted part of the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn is fused, as will be described later. A cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn comprising at least one cationically non-dyable polyester multifilament yarn, at least one untwisted part and a non-untwisted part, and a part of the non-untwisted part is fused. Composite false-twisted yarn and woven or knitted fabrics containing the same, which have a texture with a softer surface touch and a color that changes from dark to light dyeing over a long cycle, creating a more natural gradation effect. can be obtained and is a preferred embodiment of the present invention.

The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has a spread portion. In the present invention, the spread part means the spread part between a certain interlace and the adjacent interlace, and the length of the spread part can be obtained by measuring the interlace interval. Generally, in composite false twisted yarns, the interlacing occurs at regular intervals. However, in the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, when the length of 30 spread parts in the composite false twisted yarn, that is, the interlacing interval is measured, there are 1 to 15 spread parts that are 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, The number of spread parts with a length of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 or more and 15 or less, and the number of spread parts with a length of 50 mm or more is 1 or more and 10 or less. By doing this, a scratch-like appearance can be obtained by dyeing or the like. If the length of the spread part is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, or 50 mm or more, and the number of spread parts is less than 1, a scraped appearance will not be obtained and a monotonous appearance will result. . In addition, fiber blending properties are reduced, and there are concerns about deterioration in process passability and quality defects during the production of woven or knitted fabrics. In addition, if the length of the spread part is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, or the number of spread parts whose length is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm exceeds 15, or the number of spread parts whose length is 50 mm or more is 10 If it exceeds 1,000 ml, stable process passability and quality can be obtained, but a marbling-like appearance will be obtained, and a scum-like appearance will not be obtained. The preferred number of spread parts is such that the number of spread parts whose length is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 or more and 10 or less, and the number of spread parts whose length is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1. The number of spread portions is 1 to 10, and the number of spread portions is 50 mm or more and is 1 to 10. The length measurement of the 30 spread portions in the composite false twisted yarn can be determined as follows. First, one end of a randomly sampled processed yarn was fixed to a clamp and hung vertically, and an initial load (0.002 g/dtex) was applied to the other end of 1 m and left for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, exclude it from the measurement. Visually check the intersecting point and mark the center of the intersecting point with a marker. The region sandwiched between adjacent intertwined points (marks) is defined as a spread section, and the length between the intertwined points is defined as the length of the spread section. The number (pieces) and length (mm) of the fiber-spreading portions are measured from one fixed end, and this is performed for 30 fiber-spreading portions. Although the manufacturing method for making the length of the spread portion fall within the range of the present invention is not particularly limited, examples include the manufacturing method described below.

The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has a number of entanglements of 2 or more and 45 or less under a load of 0.1 g/dtex, and a number of entanglements of 30/m or less under a load of 0.5 g/dtex. It is preferable that it is below m. It is more preferable that the number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 10 or more and 30 or less. Moreover, it is more preferable that the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is 20 pieces/m or less. The lower limit of the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is not particularly limited, and may be 0 entanglements/m. By setting the number of entanglements to 2/m or more under a load of 0.1 g/dtex, fiber blendability is improved, and improvement in process passability and quality improvement during the production of woven or knitted fabrics can be expected. Furthermore, by setting the number of entangled particles to 45 pieces/m or less, it is possible to easily obtain a dust-like appearance, which is different from a marbled-like appearance, while maintaining stable process passability and quality. On the other hand, by setting the number of entanglements to 30 or less under a load of 0.5 g/dtex, the texture is even softer, with a soft surface touch, and the color changes from dark to light dyeing over a long period of time. , it is possible to obtain a composite yarn with a more natural gradation effect. In the present invention, the number of entanglements can be determined by the method described in Examples. A composite false-twisted yarn having mild entanglement as described above is a preferred embodiment because it more significantly exhibits the effects of the present invention. Since the entanglement is mild, when a certain amount of load is applied, some parts become unentangled.

In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns has an untwisted portion and a non-untwisted portion. The untwisted portion in the present invention is a portion having a twist in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction (for example, an over-untwisted portion), and the non-untwisted portion is a portion having a twist in the false twisting direction. Further, in at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns having a non-untwisted part, it is preferable that a part of the non-untwisted part is fused. By being fused, it is easy to obtain a linen-like crisp feel. The combination of the crunchy feel and the above-mentioned scratch-like appearance makes it possible to make a more excellent material. The fused portion is preferably present in at least one non-untwisted portion, but it is more preferable that 50% or more of the non-untwisted portions have fusion bonding, and more preferably 80% or more of the non-untwisted portions. preferable. In addition, in the composite false twisted yarn, at least one thermoplastic multifilament yarn is fused in the untwisted part, and an embodiment in which at least one thermoplastic multifilament yarn is not fused is a thin layer. This is a preferred embodiment of the present invention because the appearance is easily emphasized. In particular, it is preferable that at least one yarn is a cationically dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having an untwisted part and a non-untwisted part, and a part of the non-untwisted part is fused. More preferably, it is a dyed polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn. Furthermore, it is preferred that at least one cationically non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, in particular a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn, is also included.

In the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the length of the non-untwisted part in the thermoplastic multifilament yarn having the non-untwisted part is preferably 2 to 20 mm. When the length of the non-untwisted portion is 2 mm or more, a particularly excellent crisp feel can be obtained, and a more preferable gradation effect and excellent rasp-like appearance can be obtained. In the present invention, the untwisted portion can be measured as follows. Collect one 30 cm piece of composite false twisted yarn from the warp or weft direction of the dyed and finished woven or knitted fabric, fix one end of the composite false twisted yarn to a clamp, hang it vertically, and apply an initial load (0.002 g/dtex) to the other end. ) and let stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, exclude it from the measurement. Visually check the untwisted parts, measure the length (mm) of the untwisted parts that exist in order from one fixed end, measure the length of 10 untwisted parts, and find the average length. . If there are two or more thermoplastic multifilament yarns having an untwisted part and a non-untwisted part, measure each one. In the present invention, it is preferable that at least one thermoplastic multifilament yarn falls within the above range. In addition, it is also possible to evaluate using a precursor of so-called composite false twisted yarn before weaving, knitting, etc., but in that case, it is treated with hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes without applying a load, and the One 30 cm sample shall be taken from the composite false twisted yarn and evaluated. If the composite false twisted yarn contains latent crimp fibers, the crimp will become apparent during heat treatment during the process of weaving, dyeing, and finishing to produce woven or knitted fabrics, etc., and the product will have crimp. , it is appropriate to treat this as a multifilament yarn with a crimped form. Therefore, in the case of a composite false twisted yarn, it is treated with hot water in a simulated manner to make the crimp visible and evaluated as a multifilament yarn with a crimp form.

When the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is dyed, a dark dyed area that is dyed in a relatively deep color and a light dyed area that is dyed in a relatively light color clearly appear. In addition, when used in woven or knitted fabrics, it can provide an excellent texture with a soft surface touch. As a result, a scratch-like appearance with an excellent gradation effect can be obtained. Furthermore, when two or more types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeability, such as cationically dyeable multifilament yarn and cationically non-dyeable multifilament yarn, are used to make a composite false twisted yarn, knitted and woven, and dyed, it becomes even more This is a preferred embodiment because it provides an even better gradation effect and provides a natural, scratch-like appearance.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. Although the amount of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, it is preferably 30% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more of the woven or knitted material.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least one thermoplastic multifilament yarn has a non-untwisted portion, and a portion of the composite false twisted yarn is fused, and the proportion of the composite false twisted yarn in the woven or knitted fabric is It preferably contains 60% by mass or more of the entire knitted fabric, more preferably 80% by mass or more, and 100% by mass, that is, all of the warp and/or weft yarns constituting the woven fabric part, or the knitting yarns constituting the knitted fabric part. It is more preferable to use it in all areas because it produces an excellent gradation effect. In order to obtain a desired design, it can also be used in combination with other fibers as appropriate.

The structure constituting the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited. In the case of woven fabrics, the texture may be a plain texture, twill texture, satin texture, or variations thereof depending on the intended use. In the case of knitted fabrics, the texture may be a jersey texture of circular knit fabric, an interlock texture, a smooth texture, a half texture of warp knit fabric, a satin texture, a jacquard texture, or variations thereof depending on the purpose of use. I do not care.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be subjected to processing for the purpose of texture adjustment such as weight loss processing, physical processing such as brushed processing or calendar processing, functional processing such as water repellent processing, water absorption processing, antistatic processing, etc.

Next, an example of the method for manufacturing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described.

First, a preferred embodiment of the method for manufacturing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention will be explained using FIG. 1, which is a conceptual diagram. First, the first yarn 1 passes through the guide 3, is sent out by the first feed roller 5, passes through the first heater 7, and is stretched and tented between the first false twister 9 and the third feed roller 11. Perform twist heat setting. The second yarn 2 is processed in the same way, passed through a guide 4, sent out by a second feed roller 6, passed through a second heater 8, passed through a second false twister 10, and is sent out between it and a fourth feed roller 12. Perform stretching false twist heat setting. After being subjected to a false twisting process, the two processed yarns are supplied to an interlacing nozzle 13, and after being subjected to an interlacing and blending process, they are sent out as a composite false twisted yarn 15 by a fifth feed roller 14, and then wound. It is wound up by a roller 16. The individual steps will be explained in detail below.

First, two or more thermoplastic multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarns, which are the raw yarns of the composite false twisted yarn, are each drawn separately using a heating device, and then subjected to false twisting and interlacing and blending processing at a drawing ratio of 1.1 times or more. It is preferable to carry out a series of steps. Specifically, cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn and polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn that is undyable (non-dyable) with cationic dyes and dyeable with disperse dyes will be explained as examples. It is preferred that the cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn be drawn separately using a heating device. The highly oriented undrawn yarn referred to herein preferably has a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m/min and a birefringence Δn of 0.015 to 0.080. By stretching these yarns separately, it is possible to select a stretching ratio suitable for each yarn quality, making it easier to control the interlacing interval, which is a preferred method for producing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. Further, the stretching temperature may be varied depending on each yarn. In particular, when forming a fusion bond, the temperature can be adjusted to an appropriate temperature.

The stretching ratio of the stretch false twisting process is preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.9 times or less. In the present invention, when a thermoplastic multifilament yarn in which a portion of the non-spreading portion is fused is obtained, it is preferably obtained by false twist fusion processing. In this case, the stretching ratio is preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.6 times or less. It is preferable that the stretching ratio is 1.1 times or more because processing is stable regardless of yarn speed and yarn breakage is suppressed. It is preferable that it is 1.6 times or less because the fused portion is maintained in a favorable state by stretching and a particularly excellent hemp-like crisp feel can be obtained.

The false twisting device may be a pin type, a 3-axis external friction type, a belt nip type, or the like, but a 3-axis external friction type or a belt nip type that can perform high-speed processing is preferable. Furthermore, it is necessary to intertwine the two threads to converge them.

Each of the drawn yarns is then doubled. The yarns may be twisted together using rollers before the false twisting section. When manufacturing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, it is important to control the length of the spread portion, that is, the interlacing interval, within the range of the present invention. Generally, as the entangling and blending method, the Taslan blending method using a turbulent flow nozzle and the interlace blending method using an interlace nozzle are known. In the Taslan blending method using a turbulent flow nozzle, turbulent flow is generated within the nozzle, overfeeding, and swirling force is applied to each loosened yarn individually, so each yarn gets entangled with its neighboring yarns, creating fine loops. Therefore, even if Taslan blending is performed using at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the fiber axis direction, the entire yarns become intertwined and create fine loops, making it difficult to obtain the dregs-like appearance that is the objective of the present invention. It is difficult. In addition, in the interlace blending method using a general interlace nozzle, the interlaced portions are created by entangling the single yarns and converging, resulting in interlaced portions having a short length and at regular intervals. Difficult to obtain appearance. Usually, an interlace nozzle applies a jet stream from one direction perpendicular to the running yarn, so when the running yarn passes through the interlace nozzle, it behaves like a chordal vibration. As the yarn crosses the jet, the yarn opens and the single yarn behaves randomly, causing entanglement at both ends. Since string vibration vibrates at a constant period, the lengths of the opening part and the intertwining part do not change much, but become shorter.

In other words, with conventionally known fiber blending methods, it is difficult to obtain the smudge-like appearance with excellent gradation effect, which is the objective of the present invention. In the present invention, for example, a nozzle that applies jets from two directions perpendicular to the running yarn (hereinafter sometimes referred to as a "special interlace nozzle") is used to send the yarn to the nozzle outlet and to The guide that changes the direction of passage allows the fluid to pass through the sides of the loosened threads that are supplied when the threads are released from the propelling fluid, causing the single threads to become slightly entangled at some of the interlacing intervals, thereby creating the composite fabric of the present invention. You can get twisted yarn. By increasing the interlacing interval, the threads can rise and fall, making it easier to obtain a kasuri tone. If the interlacing interval is short, there will be no ups and downs in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and it will be difficult to obtain a textured texture.

The above-mentioned special interlace nozzle preferably used in producing the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but examples include KF-JET manufactured by Nippon Hebaline Co., Ltd. Of course, the nozzle is not limited to the above-mentioned nozzle, but an interlaced nozzle that can control the jet flow so as not to have a constant period is preferable.

Generally, in the interlace blending method, the injection pressure is set to 0.05 to 0.5 MP. On the other hand, in the present invention, the special interlace nozzle jet pressure when blending at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns is preferably 0.1 MPa or more and 0.3 MPa or less. When the pressure is 0.1 MPa or more, the intermixing of at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns is improved, the entanglement becomes stronger, and the quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric is improved. By setting the pressure to 0.3 MPa or less, the resulting woven or knitted fabric will have a fine heathered feel. A more preferable range is 0.15 MPa or more and 0.25 MPa or less.

Furthermore, when at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns are mixed, the feed rate between each yarn and the special interlace nozzle is preferably 0.5% or more and 4.0% or less. When the content is 0.5% or more, the blendability of at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns is improved, the entanglement becomes stronger, and the quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric is improved. By setting it to 4.0% or less, the feed rate will be high with respect to the nozzle jet, and at least two thermoplastic multifilament threads will be loosened before and after the nozzle, reducing flapping and preventing thread breakage and guides before and after the nozzle. Can prevent nozzle and guide dirt from rubbing. A more preferable range is 0.8% or more and 3.0% or less.

The twisting direction of the composite false twisted yarn may be either the S direction or the Z direction, but in order to improve the grain quality of woven or knitted products, at least one thermoplastic multifilament yarn in the composite false twisted yarn is twisted in the S direction. , and the other one is preferably in the Z direction.

As mentioned above, the number of entanglements of the composite false twisted yarn is determined such that the number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 2 or more and 45 or less/m, and under a load of 0.5 g/dtex. It is preferable to control the degree of entanglement so that the number of entanglements in is 0 or more and 30 or less. In particular, the number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 10 or more and 30 or less/m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is 0 or more or 20 It is preferable that the number of particles/m is below. As a method for controlling the degree of entanglement in this way, it is preferable to use a special interlace nozzle and adjust the injection pressure and feed rate.

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically explained using Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. In addition, each physical property value described in the text or in the examples is based on the following measurement method.

[Fineness of highly oriented undrawn yarn and composite false twisted yarn]
The yarn was wound 80 times using a measuring machine (circumference: 1.125 m) to form a ring, and the weight was measured to the fourth decimal place using a balance. This operation was repeated 10 times, and the fineness of the yarn was calculated using the following formula, setting the average value of the weights of the 10 times as P.
- Yarn fineness (dtex) = P x 100 x 1.11.

[Tensile strength and elongation rate of composite false twisted yarn]
It was measured according to JIS L1013 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method (2010).

The grip distance was 200 mm, the tensile speed was 200 mm/min, the load-elongation curve was determined using a tensile tester (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), the load value at break was divided by the initial fineness, and this was taken as the tensile strength. The elongation was divided by the initial sample length to determine the elongation rate.

[Hot water shrinkage rate]
The yarn was wound 10 times using a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) to form a ring, a load of 1/30 g per 1.11 dtex was applied to determine the length X, and the yarn was placed in boiling water for 30 minutes in a free state. After immersion, it was air-dried, and a load of 1/30 g per 1.11 dtex was applied again to determine the length Y, which was calculated using the following formula. When measuring the fineness of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, both yarns were separately wound before being mixed, and the measurement was performed using the wound yarn.
・Hot water shrinkage rate (%) = [(X-Y)/X] x 100.

[Length of 30 spread parts of composite false twisted yarn]
One end of the randomly sampled composite false twisted yarn was fixed to a clamp at a height of 1.2 m from the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load (0.002 g/dtex) was applied to the other end of 1 m and left to stand for 2 minutes. . If the load touched the floor, it was excluded from the measurement. The intertwined points were visually confirmed and marked with a marker at the center of the intertwined points. The number of spread parts (pieces) and the length (mm) between intertwined points were measured from one fixed end, and the intertwining interval of the 30 spread parts was measured. This operation was repeated 10 times, and the average number of interlaced intervals of 10 times was calculated.

[Length of untwisted part, presence or absence of fusion]
Collect one 30 cm piece of composite false twisted yarn from the warp or weft direction of the dyed and finished woven or knitted fabric, fix one end of the composite false twisted yarn to a clamp, hang it vertically, and apply an initial load (0.002 g/dtex) to the other end. ) and allowed to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touched the floor, it was excluded from the measurement. Regarding the thermoplastic multifilament yarn contained in the composite false twisted yarn, visually confirm the untwisted parts and fused parts, and measure the length (mm) of the untwisted parts that exist sequentially from one fixed end. The lengths of 10 untwisted parts were measured and the average length was determined. When there are two or more thermoplastic multifilament yarns having an untwisted part and a non-untwisted part, measurements were taken for each and the average value was taken as the average value. In addition, when evaluating using composite false-twisted yarn, it shall be treated with hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes without applying any load, and one 30 cm sample shall be taken from the treated composite false-twisted yarn for evaluation. .

[Level of heather feeling]
The degree of heathering of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 experts using the following three-level evaluation method. ◎ and ○ were considered to be passed.
◎: Has a heathered texture and a strong gradation effect.
〇: Has a heathered texture and a gradation effect.
×: Has a marbled-like heather feel and has a weak gradation effect.

[Texture]
The soft feel was evaluated by 10 experts using the following 4-level evaluation method. ◎ and ○ were considered to be passed.
◎: Texture that gives a particularly strong feeling of softness when touched with the hand.
○: Texture that feels soft to the touch.
△: Texture that feels a little soft when touched by hand.
×: Texture that does not feel soft when touched by hand.

[Example 1]
Multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.018) of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.0% mole of 5-sodium isophthalic acid of 130 decitex 36 filaments manufactured at a spinning speed of 2100 m/min (birefringence Δn: 0.018) (cationic possible). Dyed multifilament yarn) (original yarn A) and highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.036) of 130 decitex 36 filaments manufactured at a spinning speed of 2500 m/min (birefringence Δn: 0.036) (non-cationic dyeable Multifilament yarn) (original yarn B) was drawn and false-twisted under the conditions in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in Figure 1, and each yarn (originally yarn A) was A composite false twisted yarn was obtained by subjecting the yarn derived from B to yarn B) using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET, manufactured by Nippon Hebaline Co., Ltd.).

The number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex of the obtained composite false twisted yarn was 42 pieces/m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 24 pieces/m. Among the 30 spread parts, the number of spread parts with an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 15, and the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 10, and the number of spread parts is 50 mm or more. The number of fibers became 5. The tensile strength was 2.03 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 28.8%, the total fineness was 184.6 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.8%. Yarn A of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had fusion in the non-untwisted portion.

The resulting composite false twisted yarn was used for the warp and weft to produce a plain woven fabric with a warp density of 82 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 threads/2.54 cm, and then the resulting woven fabric was subjected to a conventional method. A liquid flow relaxation treatment was performed according to the procedure, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained fabric was dyed using a cationic dye "Cachilon" Blue GRLH 200% (manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes, and a finish set was applied according to a conventional method. The finishing setting conditions were carried out at a temperature of 160°C.

As a result of evaluating the heathered feel, it was found that the obtained plain woven fabric had a scratchy heathered feel, a surface feeling with a strong gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel.

[Example 2]
Multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.017) of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.0 mol% of 5-sodium isophthalic acid of 130 dtex 72 filaments manufactured at a spinning speed of 2100 m/min (birefringence Δn: 0.017) (cationic possible) dyed multifilament yarn) (original yarn C) and a multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringent Using a ratio Δn: 0.042) (original yarn D), draw false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. A composite false twisted yarn was obtained by subjecting the yarn (derived from yarn D as yarn D) to interlacing and blending using a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Nippon Hebaline Co., Ltd.).

The number of entangled pieces of the obtained composite false twisted yarn under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 26 pieces/m, and the number of entangled pieces under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 12 pieces/m. Of the 30 spread parts, there are 12 spread parts with an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 10 spread parts with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 8 spread parts with an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. It became. The tensile strength was 2.02 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 29.6%, the total fineness was 150.5 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.3%. The yarn C of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had fusion in the non-untwisted portion.

Using the obtained composite false twisted yarn at a blending ratio of 100% and using a 28G circular knitting machine, a circular knitted fabric with a jersey texture was produced with 42 wales/2.54 cm and 73 courses/2.54 cm.

Next, the obtained circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxing treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed using a cationic dye "Cachilon" Blue GRLH 200% (manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes, and dried according to a conventional method.

The obtained circular knitted fabric had a heathered texture with a gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture was obtained.

[Example 3]
Multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.016) of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2.0% mole of 5-sodium isophthalic acid of 90 decitex 36 filaments manufactured at a spinning speed of 2100 m/min (birefringence Δn: 0.016) (cationic possible) Using the dyed multifilament yarn (raw yarn E) and the yarn D used in Example 2, drawing and false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. A special interlacing nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Nippon Hebaline Co., Ltd.) is used to perform an interlacing and blending process on the yarns derived from the raw yarn (Yarn E is from the original yarn D, and yarn D is the yarn from the raw yarn D) to produce composite false twisted yarn. Obtained.

The number of intertwined yarns of the resulting composite false twisted yarn under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 13 pieces/m, and the number of intertwined yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 6 pieces/m. Spread fibers in which the number of spread parts in which the intertwining interval is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 30 spread parts is 10, and the number of spread parts is 10 pieces with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and is 50 mm or more. The number of parts is now 10. The tensile strength was 2.06 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 28.6%, the total fineness was 120.4 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 5.0%. The yarn E of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had a fused portion in the fiber axis direction.

Using the obtained composite false twisted yarn at a blending rate of 100% and using a 28G circular knitting machine, a circular knitted fabric with a jersey texture was fabricated with 48 wales/2.54 cm and 75 courses/2.54 cm.

Next, the obtained circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxing treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. The intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed using a cationic dye "Cachilon" Blue GRLH 200% (manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes, and dried according to a conventional method.

The obtained circular knitted fabric had a heathered texture with a gradation effect on the surface, and the desired heathered texture was obtained.

[Comparative example 1]
Using yarn A and yarn B used in Example 1, false twisting was performed according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. 1 and under the conditions shown in Table 1. A conventional conventional method in which a jet of air is blown from one direction transverse to the running direction of the yarn as an interlacing nozzle to a yarn derived from the raw yarn B (called yarn B1), and the filament crosses the jet. A composite false twisted yarn was obtained by performing interlacing and blending processing using a type interlacing nozzle.

The number of entangled pieces of the obtained composite false twisted yarn under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 108 pieces/m, and the number of entangled pieces under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 100 pieces/m. Among the 30 spread parts, there are 30 spread parts with an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and 0 spread parts with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 spread parts with an entanglement interval of 50 mm or more. It became. The tensile strength was 2.01 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 28.4%, the total fineness was 183.6 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.6%. The yarn A1 of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had a fused portion in the untwisted portion.

Using the obtained mixed fiber yarns for the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 82 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 threads/2.54 cm, and a processing step was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1. passed through.

The obtained plain woven fabric had a marbled-like heathered texture, a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture could not be obtained.

[Comparative example 2]
Using the raw yarn C and the raw yarn D used in Example 2, drawing false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. , the yarn derived from the raw yarn D is referred to as yarn D1) was subjected to interlacing and blending processing using the same interlace nozzle as used in Comparative Example 1 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.

The number of entangled pieces of the obtained composite false twisted yarn under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 104 pieces/m, and the number of entangled pieces under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 101 pieces/m. Among the 30 spread parts, the number of spread parts with an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 30, and the number of spread parts with an entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 0, and the length is 50 mm or more. The number of spread parts became 0. The tensile strength was 2.01 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 29.9%, the total fineness was 150.4 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.7%. The yarn C1 of the composite false twisted yarn obtained had a fused portion in the untwisted portion.

Using the obtained composite false twisted yarn at a mixing ratio of 100% and using a 28G circular knitting machine, a circular knitted fabric with a jersey texture was produced with 42 wales/2.54 cm and 73 courses/2.54 cm, and the same as in Example 2. The processing process was carried out under the following conditions.

The obtained circular knitted fabric had a marbled-like heathered texture, a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture could not be obtained.

[Comparative example 3]
Using the yarn E and the yarn D used in Example 3, drawing false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. E1, yarn derived from raw yarn D is referred to as yarn D1) was mixed with a Taslan nozzle to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.

In the obtained composite false twisted yarn, the entire yarn was entangled by the Taslan nozzle, forming fine loops, and it was not possible to measure the number of entangled yarns, the number of spread portions, and the interlacing interval. The tensile strength was 2.02 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 28.1%, the total fineness was 120.1 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 5.0%. The yarn E1 of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had a fused portion in the untwisted portion.

A circular knitted fabric with a jersey texture was produced using the obtained composite false twisted yarn at a blending ratio of 100% using a 28G circular knitting machine with 48 wales/2.54 cm and 75 courses/2.54 cm, and the same as in Example 2. The processing process was carried out under the following conditions.

The entire yarn of the obtained knitted fabric yarn was entangled with the Taslan nozzle, forming fine loops, and it was not possible to measure the number of entanglements, the number of spread portions, and the interlace interval. The circular knitted fabric thus obtained had a marbled-like heathered texture, a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture could not be obtained.

[Comparative example 4]
Using yarn A and yarn B used in Example 1, false twist drawing was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. The yarn derived from the raw yarn B (called yarn B2) was subjected to an interlacing and blending process using a special interlace nozzle (manufactured by Nippon Hebaline Co., Ltd., KF-JET) to obtain an SZ composite false twisted yarn.

The number of entangled pieces of the obtained composite false twisted yarn under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 55 pieces/m, and the number of entangled pieces under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 38 pieces/m. Spread fibers in which the number of spread parts in which the intertwining interval is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 30 spread parts is 23, and the number of spread parts is 7 pieces that are 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and is 50 mm or more. The number of parts has become 0. The tensile strength was 2.05 cN/dtex, the elongation rate was 28.3%, the total fineness was 184.0 dtex, and the hot water shrinkage rate was 4.6%. Yarn A2 of the obtained composite false twisted yarn had a fused portion in the fiber axis direction.

Using the obtained composite false twisted yarn as the warp and weft, a plain woven fabric was produced with a warp density of 82 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 threads/2.54 cm, and a processing step was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1. passed through.

The obtained plain woven fabric had a marbled-like heathered texture, a surface texture with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered texture could not be obtained.

1: First yarn 2: Second yarn 3: Guide 4: Guide 5: First feed roller 6: Second feed roller 7: First heater 8: Second heater 9: First false twister 10 : Second false twisting tool 11: Third feed roller 12: Fourth feed roller 13: Interlacing nozzle 14: Fifth feed roller 15: Composite false twist yarn 16: Winding roller

Claims (7)

A composite false twisted yarn comprising at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns and having a spread portion, at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns having an untwisted portion and a non-untwisted portion; In the composite false twisted yarn, the length of the 30 spread parts is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and the length is 1 or more and 15 or less; Composite false twisted yarn having 1 or more and 10 or less of the above. The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein in at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns having the untwisted portion and the untwisted portion, a portion of the untwisted portion is fused. The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the length of the untwisted portion is 2 to 20 mm. The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. The composite fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thermoplastic multifilament yarn contains titanium oxide, and the concentration of the titanium oxide is 0.2 to 5.0% by mass with respect to the thermoplastic multifilament yarn. Twisted yarn. The number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 2 or more and 45 or less/m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is 30 or less/m. The composite false twisted yarn according to 1 or 2. A woven or knitted fabric comprising the composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1 or 2.

Images