JP2023048194A - Composite false twisted combined filament yarn and knitted or woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a composite false twisted combined filament yarn, which enables deeply dyed parts and lightly dyed parts to be distinguishable even after combining the yarns and exhibits excellent feeling with soft and smooth touch and appearance of a splashed pattern excellent in gradation effect that could not be obtained by a conventional false twisted combined filament yarn when used in a knitted or woven fabric and dyed, and a knitted or woven fabric.SOLUTION: A composite false twisted combined filament yarn consists of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and entirely has false twisted crimps. Per 30 fiber-opening parts, the composite false twisted combined filament yarn and a knitted or woven fabric have one or more and 15 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, one or more and 15 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and one or more and 10 or less of fiber-opening parts with interlace distance of 50 mm or more.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 4

Description

The present invention relates to a composite false-twisted mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the same.

Composite false-twisted textured yarns have been widely used in the field of clothing, and various proposals have been made to achieve a smooth feel and a natural heathered appearance.

For example, using a multifilament yarn having false twist crimps and a non-crimped multifilament yarn, an air control valve for controlling the injection of compressed air from an air tank is connected to the fluid treatment, and the composite textured yarn is produced by computer control. A composite textured yarn in which entangled concentrated portions and non-entangled portions are alternately present in the longitudinal direction and whose lengths are random has been proposed (see Patent Document 1).

In addition, in order to provide a knitted fabric with excellent anti-snugging properties without impairing the soft texture and stretchability, low-torque, low-interlaced yarns composed of two or more types of false-twisted crimped yarns have been proposed. (See Patent Document 2).

JP 2005-307382 A Japanese Patent No. 5155162

However, in the composite false-twisted mixed yarn in which the entangled portions and the non-entangled portions are alternately present in the longitudinal direction proposed in Patent Document 1, the entangled portions and the short non-entangled portions are alternately spaced at approximately the same intervals. Since the period between the dark dyed part and the light dyed part becomes shorter with respect to the yarn length after blending, the marbled appearance becomes a marbling appearance with an excellent gradation effect. couldn't get.

Further, the proposal of Patent Document 2 is an interlaced interlaced yarn composed of two or more types of false twisted crimped yarn, but the interlacing treatment (interlacing) is performed using a normal interlace nozzle. The entangled part and the short non-entangled part alternately exist at approximately the same intervals, and the period of the dark dyed part and the lightly dyed part with respect to the yarn length after the mixed fiber is shortened, so the entanglement is concentrated. In the case, the appearance was marbling, and it was not possible to obtain a dusty appearance excellent in a high degree of gradation effect.

The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and the dark and light dyeing parts are not well-dyed even after mixed fibers, and by using it in woven and knitted fabrics for dyeing, it is soft, smooth, and excellent. To provide a composite false-twisted mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric having both a texture and an excellent gradation effect and a rough-like appearance which cannot be obtained with a conventional false-twisted mixed yarn.

Therefore, as a result of conducting studies, the present inventors treated two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns by a false twisting mixed fiber entangling method in which the intermingling interval is controlled and the intermingling number is small. The inventors have found that the use of composite false-twisted mixed yarn in a woven or knitted fabric can provide texture and surface feel that cannot be obtained with conventional mixed yarn, and have arrived at the present invention. In addition, in the present invention, specific thick and thin cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn and thick and thin polyester side-by-side (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament yarn are used for weaving and knitting, and cationic dyeable polyester large speckles and entanglement are used. By controlling the spacing and using a mixed fiber entangling method with a low entanglement number to dye the fabric with cationic dyes, the texture is softer and smoother, and the color changes from dark dyeing to light dyeing in a long cycle. It was found that a mixed yarn and a woven or knitted fabric having a more natural gradation effect combined with the colors of the polyester multifilament yarn having different dyeability can be obtained.

The composite false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is a composite false-twisted mixed yarn composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, has false-twisted crimps as a whole, and has 30 open portions. 1 or more and 15 or less spread portions with an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and 1 or more and 15 or less of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and the spread portion is 50 mm or more. is a composite false twisted mixed yarn having 1 or more and 10 or less.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composite false twisted mixed yarn, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn consists of a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B, The cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is contained in an amount of 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composite false twisted mixed yarn, at least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns is a thermoplastic multifilament yarn having latent crimpability.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the composite false twisted mixed yarn, the at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns each have unevenness in thickness in the fiber axis direction, and The thick portion is out of phase, the yarn structure has a partially reversible yarn length difference, and the substantial yarn length difference between yarns is 3% or less.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composite false-twisted mixed yarn has a number of entanglements of 2/m or more and 45/m or less under a load of 0.1 g/dtex, and 0.5 g/m. The number of entanglements under the load of dtex is 0/m or more and 30/m or less.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric using the composite false twisted mixed yarn as a part of the woven or knitted fabric.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is also a composite false-twisted mixed yarn composed at least in part of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, having false-twisted crimps as a whole and opening portions Among the 30 fibers, 1 or more and 15 or less spread portions having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and 1 or more and 15 or less and 50 mm or more of the spread portions having an interlacing distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. A woven or knitted fabric containing a composite false twisted mixed yarn having 1 or more and 10 or less fiber portions.

According to a preferred aspect of the present invention, the woven or knitted fabric is a woven or knitted fabric in which the number of entanglements of the composite false twisted mixed yarn is 1/m or more and 35/m or less.

The composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, has false twist crimps as a whole, and is knitted and woven by controlling the entangling open portion. When the yarn is dyed, it has a soft, smooth feeling, an excellent texture and a rough appearance with an excellent gradation effect, which cannot be obtained with conventional composite false twisted mixed yarn.

FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram for explaining one embodiment of a preferred method for producing the false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a conceptual diagram for explaining one aspect of a preferred method for manufacturing the false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a conceptual diagram for explaining one aspect of a preferred method for manufacturing the false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. 4 is a drawing-substituting photograph of the surface of the circular knitted fabric obtained in Example 2. FIG. 5 is a drawing-substituting photograph of the surface of the circular knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Example 2. FIG.

The false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is a composite false-twisted mixed yarn composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and has false-twisted crimps as a whole. When the entangling interval is measured for 30 spread portions, the number of the spread portions with the entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 or more and 15 or less, and the number of the fiber spread portions with the entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is When the number of the spread parts is 1 or more and 15 or less and the number of spread parts of 50 mm or more is 1 or more and 10 or less, the yarn is appropriately mixed, knitted and woven into a woven or knitted fabric, and dyed. In addition, a dusty appearance can be obtained.

If the number of the spread parts in any of the interlacing intervals of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, or 50 mm or more is less than 1, a rough appearance can be obtained, but the mixing property is deteriorated, and the production of woven and knitted fabrics is affected. There are concerns about deterioration of process passability and quality defects. In addition, when the number of open fiber parts in any of the interlacing intervals of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, or 50 mm or more exceeds 15, stable process passability and quality can be obtained, but the appearance becomes marbling and faint. You don't get a toned look. More preferably, the number of spread portions is 1 or more and 10 or less in which the interlacing interval is 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and the number of the spread portions in which the interlacing distance is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 or more and 10. or less, and the number of spread portions having a length of 50 mm or more is 1 or more and 10 or less. For the length measurement of 30 open portions in the false twist mixed yarn, one end of randomly sampled textured yarn was fixed to a clamp and hung vertically, and an initial load (0.002 g / dtex) was applied to the other end of 1 m. ) and let stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, remove it from the measurement. Visually confirm the confounding point and mark the center of the confounding point with a marker. An area sandwiched between adjacent intertwining points (marks) is defined as an open portion, and the length between the intertwining points is defined as an intertwining interval. The number (pieces) of the spread parts and the length (mm) between the interlacing points are measured from one fixed end, and the interlacing interval of 30 spread parts is measured.

The false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is composed of at least two thermoplastic multifilament yarns. The thermoplastic multifilament yarn is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber and is generally classified as a fiber.

As at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, it is preferable to combine composite textured yarns of thermoplastic multifilaments with different dyeability, and one type is a cationic dye dyeable yarn such as a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. It is preferred to use fiber threads. Other polymers constituting the thermoplastic multifilament yarn include, for example, polyalkylene terephthalates such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyesters such as polylactic acid, polyolefins such as polypropylene, and polycarbonates. , polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, polyurethane, polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.

In the above description, the term "differences in dyeability" means that when different types of fibers are dyed under dyeing conditions that allow at least one type of fiber to be dyed, a color difference occurs between fiber types. A cationic dye-dyeable fiber thread refers to a fiber thread that can be dyed with a cationic dye (hereinafter, "cationic dye-dyeable" may be referred to as "cationic dyeable"). Thermoplastic multifilament yarns other than cationic dyeable fiber yarns are called other thermoplastic multifilament yarns or, for convenience, “cationic dye non-dyeable yarns”, and “cationic dye non-dyeable yarns”. ” may be simply referred to as “cation non-dyeable”.

Materials for these thermoplastic multifilament yarns include inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and UV absorbers. Various additives such as agents may be included in the polymer.

In addition to circular cross-sections, fiber cross-sections include flat cross-sections, polygonal cross-sections such as triangles, quadrilaterals, hexagons, and octagons, daruma cross-sections with uneven portions, Y-shaped cross-sections, and star-shaped cross-sections. etc. can take various cross-sectional shapes.

As the polymer constituting the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, those commonly used as cationic dyeable polyester can be preferably mentioned. Specifically, cationically dyeable polyethylene terephthalate such as copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonic acid group can be preferably used. A commonly used isophthalic acid component having a sulfonic acid group may be used. Specifically, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid dimethyl ester, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid diethyl ester, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid diglycol ester, 5-lithiumsulfoisophthalic acid, 5-lithium Examples include dimethyl sulfoisophthalate, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalate diethyl ester, 5-lithium sulfoisophthalate diglycol ester, and the like, and mixtures thereof may also be used, but they are effective in improving dyeability and are readily available. dimethyl 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate and diglycol 5-sodium sulfoisophthalate are preferred.

The above composite false twisted mixed yarn has false twisted crimps as a whole, preferably a composite false twisted mixed yarn having a crimp structure of 60% or more and 100% or less. When the crimp structure of the composite false twisted mixed yarn is 60% or more, particularly excellent crimpability can be obtained, the process passability in the production of woven and knitted fabrics is good, the quality is excellent, and the more preferable smooth feeling can be obtained. A certain texture is obtained. For the measurement of the crimp configuration of the composite false twisted mixed yarn, one 30 cm composite false twisted mixed yarn was sampled from the warp or weft direction of the woven or knitted fabric that had undergone dyeing and finishing, and was measured with a digital microscope VHX-500 (( (manufactured by Keyence Corporation), a load of 1/30 g of the total fineness (D) is applied to the polyester composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention, and the polyester composite false twisted mixed yarn is observed from the longitudinal side. All multifilaments are measured, and the number of all multifilaments is defined as A, and the number of multifilaments with a crimped form as B is defined as the false-twisted crimp configuration ratio ((B/A)×100(%)). When evaluating a composite false twisted mixed yarn, it is treated with hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes without applying a load, and a 30 cm sample is taken from the treated mixed yarn and evaluated. shall be Here, when the composite false-twisted mixed yarn contains latent crimp fibers, the treatment with hot water is a heat treatment in the process of manufacturing a woven or knitted fabric through knitting, dyeing, and finishing. Since the crimps become apparent and the product has crimps, it is appropriate to handle this as a crimped multifilament yarn. This is for the purpose of making the multifilament yarn visible and evaluating it as a crimped multifilament yarn. In the present invention, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn preferably comprises a cationic dyeable fiber yarn and a cationic non-dyeable fiber yarn. In particular, it is preferable to include cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B.

The proportion of the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is preferably 10% by mass or more and 90% by mass or less, more preferably 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less in the composite false twisted mixed yarn. The other preferred ratios of the cationic dye-dyeable fibrous yarns are also the same as above.

If the ratio of the cationic dyeable fiber yarns is less than this, the cationic dyeable yarns are hidden by the entangled mixed fibers, making it difficult to obtain the effect of pleochroism. Conversely, if the ratio of the cationic dye-dyeable fiber yarns is greater than this, the cationic dye-non-dyeable yarns are similarly hidden by the entangled mixed fibers, making it difficult to obtain pleochroism. In terms of workability, if the ratio of the cationic dyeable fiber yarn is large, the thermoplastic multifilament yarn tends to become fuzzy, and the strength is greatly reduced as the ratio increases, which is not preferable.

Similarly, when applying this to at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeability, the ratio of one type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn is preferably 10% by mass or more. % or more is more preferable. In addition, the upper limit is preferably 90% by mass or less, more preferably 80% by mass or less. As a result, the one type of thermoplastic multifilament yarn and the other thermoplastic multifilament yarn are not too hidden by the entangled mixed fibers, and a better gradation effect can be obtained.

At least one of the thermoplastic multifilament yarns of the present invention preferably has latent crimpability. In the composite false twist mixed yarn, the cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn usually has the form of multifilament and is composed of a single component, a so-called single fiber, and a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components. may be In the case of a conjugate fiber composed of two or more components, it is preferably a conjugate fiber by side-by-side type compositing. By using conjugate fibers obtained by side-by-side compositing, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having good stretchability and stretch-back properties due to coil-like crimping of the conjugate fibers accompanying false twist crimping. Coiled crimps are thought to develop due to the difference in internal strain between two-component polymers due to stretching and heat after spinning, and crimps develop when the conjugate fiber is heated in a relaxed state. Conjugate fibers obtained by side-by-side type compositing are preferably composed of two types of polyester polymers having different viscosities.

As the polymer constituting the conjugate fiber by side-by-side type compositing, a polyester-based polymer is preferable, and the kind of the polyester-based polymer can be selected from polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate. The two types of polyester-based polymers referred to here are not limited to polymers having different polymer structures, but are of the same type but different in viscosity.

Among them, a conjugate fiber obtained by side-by-side compositing of polybutylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate is preferable.

At least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns used in the present invention are preferably crimped yarns having uneven thickness in the fiber axis direction. There are several methods for imparting unevenness in thickness, but considering that crimping is also imparted by false twisting, the use of thick-and-thin processing is excellent. The thick part of the thick and thin yarn has a low orientation, so that it easily absorbs the dye and is dyed in a dark color. Conversely, the thin portion is highly oriented and has a light color because it is difficult to adsorb the dye. In other words, by giving uneven thickness to all of the cationic dyeable polyester fiber threads and the cationic dye non-dyeable polyester fiber threads, it is possible to express a more multicolored and natural heathered feeling. You can. Although depending on the processing conditions, the thick and thin heather has a relatively long shaded portion and is easy to express flowing heather, so it is convenient for exhibiting the effects of the present invention more remarkably. Furthermore, it is preferable that the thick portions of the yarns are out of phase with each other. The phase of the thick part is out of phase because the phase of the thick part exists irregularly between each thread, and although there are rare parts that match, most of the thick parts It means that the phases are different. As will be described later, by adopting such a structure, it is possible to expect a bulging feeling and a further improvement effect on the heather due to the twisted yarn.

Further, in the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention, the substantial yarn length difference between the yarns is preferably 3% or less. The yarn length difference referred to here is a value measured by a method described later. A substantial yarn length difference is, for example, a combination of a cationic dyeable fiber yarn and a cationic non-dyeable fiber yarn, and a cationic dyeable fiber yarn and a cationic dye non-dyeable fiber It is the total length difference in the direction of the fiber axis with respect to the yarn. In the case of the core-sheath structure, a larger difference in yarn length is advantageous in producing a bulging feeling. However, the composite false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention has a sufficient bulging feeling even if the yarn length difference is substantially 3% or less. Furthermore, when at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns have unevenness in thickness in the direction of the fiber axis, the generation of voids caused by this and the phase of the thick part of each yarn are out of phase, It is preferable that the phases of the thick portions of the filaments are mostly the same. Thereby, it has a more excellent swelling feeling. The thick part (thick part) of each thread is an incompletely drawn part, which has a lower orientation and a higher elongation than the drawn part, and conversely, the fine part (thin part) is a completely drawn part and has a high orientation. That portion has relatively low elongation. Therefore, the highly oriented thin portion is formed like a core yarn, and the low oriented thick portion is formed like a sheath yarn. Since it occurs in both the cationic dye-dyeable fiber thread and the cationic dye-non-dyeable fiber thread, a partial core-sheath structure occurs between the threads, which is reversed at each part. Since a random structure having a partially reversible yarn length difference is formed, a particularly excellent swelling feeling can be obtained. Here, the term "partially reversible yarn length difference" means that, in the portion where the thick portion and thin portion of each yarn are aligned, the yarn on the thick portion side is longer and there is a yarn length difference in this portion. Conversely, when the thick portion and the thin portion have opposite yarns, the opposite yarn becomes longer. In other words, it means that there is a reversible difference in yarn length such that each part has a difference in yarn length, and that it becomes a core yarn or a sheath yarn in some parts. In the case of using a combination of thermoplastic multifilament yarns other than the cationic dyeable fiber yarns, similarly, the yarn length difference of each yarn contained in the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is appropriately adjusted. It is preferable to stay within the length difference. This is preferable in that the generation of neps due to a feeling of softness or rigorous training, or the abnormal heathering due to thread slippage is preferably suppressed.

The composite false-twisted mixed filament yarn of the present invention, even after being mixed, cannot be dyed in a dark dyed portion that is dyed in a relatively dark color and a lightly dyed portion that is dyed in a relatively light color. In addition, when used in woven or knitted fabrics, a soft, smooth, and excellent texture can be obtained. As a result, it is possible to obtain a dusty appearance with an excellent gradation effect, which is preferable. Furthermore, two or more types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns with different dyeability, such as cationic dyeable fiber yarn and cationic non-dyeable fiber, are used to form a composite false twisted mixed yarn, knitted, woven, and dyed. This is more preferable because the gradation effect is even more excellent and a natural dusty appearance can be obtained.

Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable to use the false twisted mixed yarn for at least part of the woven or knitted fabric. As for the proportion of the false-twisted mixed yarn in the woven or knitted fabric, excellent gradation effect can be obtained by using it for all of the warp and/or weft that make up the woven fabric, or all of the knitting yarn that makes up the knitted fabric. It is particularly preferable in terms of It is also preferable to use it in combination with other fibers in order to obtain desired design properties. When used in combination with other fibers, the composite false twisted mixed yarn preferably contains 60% by mass or more.

There are no particular restrictions on the texture that constitutes the woven or knitted fabric. In the case of woven fabrics, the weave may be plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, or any variation of these weaves, depending on the application. In the case of knitted fabrics, depending on the application, the weave may be any of circular knitted fabric, interlock weave, smooth weave, half weave of warp knitted fabric, satin weave, jacquard weave, or any variation of these weaves. I do not care.

Woven or knitted fabrics using the false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention are processed for the purpose of texture adjustment such as weight reduction processing, physical processing such as raising processing and calendering processing, functional processing such as water repellent processing, water absorbing processing, and antistatic processing. can be applied.

The number of entanglements of the composite false-twisted mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably 1/m or more and 35/m or less, more preferably 5/m or more and 15/m or less. preferable. The number of entangled yarns referred to here is the number of entangled yarns measured by the method described in "Number of entangled disassembled yarns" below.

Further, the composite false-twisted mixed yarn contained in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has an intertwining interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm when measuring 30 spread portions in the false-twisted mixed yarn. The number of spread portions is 1 or more and 15 or less, and the number of spread portions is 1 or more and 15 or less, and the number of spread portions is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and the number of spread portions is 50 mm or more, and the number of spread portions is 1 or more and 10 or less. The number of the spread portions having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 1 or more and 10 or less, and the number of the spread portions having an interlacing distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 1 or more and 10 or less. , and the number of spread portions having a length of 50 mm or more is more preferably 1 or more and 10 or less. The number of spread portions and the interlacing interval referred to here are values measured by the method described later in the section “Number of spread portions of decomposed yarn, interlacing interval”.

Next, a method for producing the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention will be described.

The present invention is a composite false twisted mixed yarn composed of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, and two or more thermoplastic synthetic fiber multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarns, which are raw yarns, are respectively heated by a heating device. At , each highly oriented undrawn yarn material is drawn separately at a temperature of +50 ° C. or lower, and then false twisting and entangled mixed fiber processing are performed at a draw ratio of 1.1 times or more in a series of false twisting. A method for producing a composite false-twisted mixed filament yarn characterized by: In the same way as before, description will be made taking as examples a polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn dyeable with a cationic dye and a polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn dyeable with a cationic dye (non-dyeable) and with a disperse dye. A highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn dyeable with cationic dyes and a highly oriented undrawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn undyed with cationic dyes are each heated with a heating device to heat the glass transition point of each highly oriented undrawn yarn to +50°C. The drawing is carried out separately at the following temperatures: The polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn referred to here has a spinning speed of 2000 to 4500 m/min and a birefringence Δn of 0.015 to 0.080. In the present invention, by drawing these separately, it is possible to select a draw ratio suitable for each yarn quality, so that a wide variety of combinations are possible. However, if the yarn is pulled and drawn, the processing conditions must be matched to the high spinning speed yarn, and if there is a difference in spinning speed, the yarn length difference will occur, and neps will occur due to looseness and ironing. It is desirable to be careful because it is a concern. Further, it is preferable to draw at a glass transition point of +50° C. or lower, since the heather is particularly remarkably developed. Also, the drawing temperature may be varied according to each yarn. Each of the drawn yarns is plied at the false twisting section, but the pliing may be performed after the threads are aligned using a roller before the false twisting section.

The draw ratio in draw false twisting is preferably 1.1 times or more, more preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.9 times or less.

The draw ratio for thick and thin false twisting is preferably 1.1 times or more, more preferably 1.1 times or more and 1.3 times or less. When the draw ratio is 1.1 times or more, processing is stable regardless of the yarn speed, and yarn breakage is suppressed, which is preferable. When it is 1.3 times or less, the thick portion is kept in a preferable state by stretching, and a particularly excellent figure is obtained, which is preferable.

The false twisting device may be of a pin type, a triaxial circumscribed friction type, or a belt nip type, etc., but a 3-axial circumscribed friction type or belt nip type capable of high-speed processing is preferable. In addition, it is necessary to impart entanglement in order to converge the two yarns.

Entanglement during false twisting and mixing of the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention has a great effect on the graininess of the woven or knitted fabric. As the entangling and mixing method in the false twisting and mixing process, a Taslan mixing method using a turbulent flow nozzle and an interlace mixing method using an interlace nozzle are generally known. In the taslan blending method using a turbulent flow nozzle, turbulent flow is generated in the nozzle and oversupply is applied to individual slackened yarns, so that the yarns in the vicinity are entangled and fine loops are generated. Therefore, even if Taslan blending is performed using at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the direction of the fiber axis, the entire yarns are entangled and fine loops are generated, so the desired rough appearance cannot be obtained. In addition, in the interlace mixing method using an interlace nozzle, a jet flow is applied to the running yarn from one horizontal direction, so the running yarn behaves like a chordal vibration when passing through the interlace nozzle. As the yarn crosses the jet, the yarn opens and the single yarn behaves randomly, resulting in entanglement at both ends. Since the string vibrates at a constant period, the lengths of the open and entangled parts do not change significantly and become shorter. Since the single yarns are entangled and converged in the entangled portion, even if interlace blending is performed using at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns in the fiber axis direction, the entangled portion is generated in a short length, resulting in the desired scraped appearance. can't get

In other words, the conventional fiber mixing method cannot provide a rough appearance with excellent gradation effect. The nozzle used for the composite false-twisted mixed yarn of the present invention differs from the nozzle used in the above-described method for mixing fibers in the principle of fiber mixing. A guide is installed at the nozzle exit to change the direction of the yarn abruptly, and when the yarn leaves the propulsion fluid, the fluid slips through the side of the yarn that is supplied and slackened, and the single yarn is entangled, forming a slight entanglement. Unlike a turbulent flow nozzle, a high-pressure jet is applied to a nozzle space where there is only a gap from which a yarn can come out.

In order to obtain such a lightly entangled composite false-twisted mixed yarn, it is preferable to use the nozzle described above (hereinafter referred to as "special interlacing nozzle"). As such a nozzle, it is preferable to use, for example, KF-JET manufactured by Hebaline.

The degree of the special interlaced nozzle jet when at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns are mixed is preferably 0.1 MPa or more and 0.3 MPa or less. If the pressure is less than 0.1 MPa, the intended blending property of the at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns cannot be obtained, and the blending property is lowered. , the quality of the resulting woven or knitted fabric may deteriorate. If the pressure exceeds 0.3 MPa, sufficient fiber mixing properties can be obtained, but at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns are strongly entangled, so that the resulting woven or knitted fabric has a finer heathered feel. A more preferable range is 0.15 MPa or more and 0.25 MPa or less.

In addition, when at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns are mixed, the feed rate between each yarn and the special interlace nozzle is preferably 0.5% or more and 4.0% or less. If the content is less than 0.5%, the intended mixing properties of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns cannot be obtained, and the mixing properties are lowered, so that both yarns are separated in the subsequent process, and yarn cracking occurs. There is a possibility that the quality of the woven or knitted fabric obtained by If it exceeds 4.0%, the feed rate to the nozzle jet is high, and at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns become loose around the nozzle, fluttering occurs, and yarn breakage occurs, and guides around the nozzle rub against each other, resulting in nozzle breakage.・Induces contamination of the guide. A more preferable range is 0.8% or more and 3.0% or less.

The twist direction of the false twisted composite mixed yarn may be either the S direction or the Z direction, but the SZ direction is preferable in order to improve the texture quality of the woven or knitted fabric.

The slightly entangled composite false-twisted mixed yarn is a preferred embodiment because it exhibits the effects of the present invention more remarkably. Since the entanglement is light, when a certain amount of load is applied, the entanglement is unraveled in some areas.

The number of entanglements in the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention is such that the number of entanglements is 2 or more and 45 or less under a load of 0.1 g/dtex and a load of 0.5 g/dtex. It is preferable that the number of entanglements in the bottom is 0/m or more and 30/m or less. Among them, the number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g / dtex is 10 / m or more and 30 / m or less, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g / dtex is 0 / m or more and 20 It is preferably less than or equal to pieces/m.

[Highly Oriented Undrawn Yarn and Fineness of Composite False Twisted Mixed Yarn]
The yarn is wound up 80 times with a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m), and the weight is measured to the fourth decimal place with a balance. This operation is repeated 10 times, and the fineness of the yarn is calculated from the following formula, where P is the average value of the weight of 10 times.
Yarn fineness (dtex) = P x 100 x 1.11

[Tensile strength and elongation of composite false twisted mixed yarn]
It was measured according to JIS L1013 Chemical fiber filament yarn test method (2010).

With a gripping interval of 200 mm and a pulling speed of 200 mm/min, a load-elongation curve was obtained using a tensile tester (manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation), and the load value at break was divided by the initial fineness, which was taken as the strength. The elongation was divided by the initial sample length to obtain the elongation.

[Hot water shrinkage]
The yarn is wound up 10 times with a measuring machine (circumference 1.125 m) and made into a ring shape, and the length X is determined by applying a load of 1/30 g per 1 d (1.11 dtex). After being immersed for 30 minutes, it is naturally dried, and a load of 1/30 g per 1 d (1.11 dtex) is applied again to obtain the length Y, which is calculated by the following formula. When measuring the fineness of the thermoplastic multifilament yarn, the two yarns are separately wound before being mixed together, and the measurement is performed using the wound yarn.
Hot water shrinkage (%) = [(XY) / X] × 100

[Yarn length difference of base yarn of composite false twist mixed yarn (heat treatment)]
Randomly sampled composite false-twisted mixed yarn was wound up 10 times with a measuring machine (circumference 1.125m) to form a loop, treated with hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes without applying a load, and mixed after treatment. Twenty mixed yarns are collected from the filaments at regular intervals (5 cm based on the original yarn). The collected mixed yarn is decomposed and divided into single yarns of cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B. The decomposed thread is placed on a glass plate, a small amount of glycerin is dropped, and an initial load is applied to the other end so as not to bend the thread, and the thread length is measured. The average yarn length of 20 single yarns of cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is L5, the average yarn length of 20 single yarns of cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B is L6, and the yarn length difference is calculated from the following equation. calculate. When using a thermoplastic multifilament yarn other than the above, the yarn length of the yarn dyed as the basic color (the color most often arranged on the front side) is L5, and the yarn length of the other yarn is L6. The length difference shall be calculated.
Thread length difference (%) = [(L5-L6)/L6] x 100
Initial load: 0.002g/dtex

[Number of Entanglements of Composite False Twisted Mixed Yarn]
One end of the composite false-twisted mixed yarn sampled at random is fixed to a clamp at a height of 1.7 m above the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other end of 1.5 m and left to stand for 2 minutes. Remove the initial load and attach a 0.1 g/dtex or 0.5 g/dtex load and let stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, remove it from the measurement. Visually confirm the confounding point and mark the center of the confounding point with a marker. The number of intertwined points (pieces) within 1 m from the fixed end is measured and taken as the number of intertwined points.
Initial load: 0.002g/dtex

[Number of spreads of composite false twisted mixed yarn, entanglement interval]
One end of the composite false-twisted mixed yarn sampled at random is fixed to a clamp at a height of 1.2 m from the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load is applied to the other end of 1 m and left to stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, remove it from the measurement. Visually confirm the confounding point and mark the center of the confounding point with a marker. The number (pieces) of the spread parts and the length (mm) between the interlacing points are measured from one fixed end, and the interlacing interval of 30 spread parts is measured. This operation is repeated 10 times, and the average number of interlacing intervals of 10 times is calculated.
Initial load: 0.002g/dtex

[Number of entangled decomposed yarns]
One end of the unraveling weaving yarn of the composite false-twisted mixed yarn randomly collected from the woven or knitted fabric was fixed to a clamp at a height of 1.7 m from the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load was applied to the other end of 1.5 m. and let stand for 2 minutes. If the load touches the floor, remove it from the measurement. Visually confirm the confounding point and mark the center of the confounding point with a marker. The number of intertwined points (pieces) within 1 m from the fixed end is measured and taken as the number of intertwined points. The applied load at the time of weaving and knitting is 0.3 g/detx.
Initial load: 0.002g/dtex
If the specified amount of sample cannot be taken, the measurements are repeated until the total length is 1 m.

[Number of split yarns, entanglement interval]
One end of the unraveling yarn of the composite false-twisted mixed yarn randomly collected from the woven or knitted fabric was fixed to a clamp at a height of 1.2 m from the floor and hung vertically, and an initial load was applied to the other end of 1 m. Let stand for 1 minute. If the load touches the floor, remove it from the measurement. Visually confirm the confounding point and mark the center of the confounding point with a marker. The number of spread portions (pieces) and the length (mm) between interlacing points are measured from one fixed end, and the interlacing interval of 30 spread portions is measured. This operation is repeated 10 times, and the average number of interlacing intervals of 10 times is calculated. The applied load at the time of unraveling shall be 0.3 g/detx.
Initial load: 0.002g/dtex
If the prescribed amount of samples cannot be collected, the measurement is repeated until the total number of spread parts reaches 30.

[Degree of heather]
The degree of heathered feeling of the fabric was visually evaluated by 10 experts according to the following 3-step evaluation method. ⊚ and ◯ were regarded as passed.
⊚: The gradation effect is strong with a heathered texture.
◯: Has a gradation effect with a heathered feel.
x: The gradation effect is weak with a marbling heathered feel.

[Texture]:
The soft feeling was evaluated by 10 experts according to the following 4-step evaluation method. ⊚ and ◯ were regarded as passed.
⊚: The texture gives a particularly strong feeling of softness when touched with a hand.
◯: The texture gives a soft feeling when touched with a hand.
△: A texture that feels a little soft when touched with a hand.
x: A texture that does not give a soft feeling when touched with a hand.

[Example 1]
90 decitex 36-filament cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48 filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min. According to the manufacturing process of 1, false twisting is performed under the conditions of Table 1, and special interlacing is applied to each yarn (the yarn derived from raw yarn A is called yarn A, and the yarn derived from raw yarn B is called yarn B). A nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd.) was used for entangling and mixing to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

FIG. 1 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. First, a cationically dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 to be the yarn A passes through a guide 2, is sent out by a first feed roller 3, passes through a first heater 4, and passes through a first false twister 5. Draw false twist heat setting is performed between the third feed roller 6 . The polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11, which will be the yarn B, is similarly processed, passed through the guide 12 and sent out by the second feed roller 13, passed through the first heater 4, and passed through the first false twister 5. Draw false twist heat setting is performed between the three feed rollers 6 . The two processed yarns are false-twisted, supplied to the entangling nozzle 7, entangled and mixed, and sent out as a composite false-twisted mixed yarn 9 by the fourth feed roller 8. , is taken up by the take-up roller 10 .

The number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 42/m, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 25/m. . Among the 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 15, and the number of spread portions having an interlacing interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 10, and the number of spread portions is 50 mm or more. The number of fibrous parts was five. The tensile strength was 2.13 cN/dtex, the elongation was 23.8%, the total fineness was 112.6 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.8%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

Using the resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave was produced with a warp density of 82/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72/2.54 cm. , followed by drying and intermediate setting. Intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. Thereafter, the resulting fabric was dyed with the cationic dye cationic blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes and subjected to finish setting in the usual manner. Finish set conditions were performed at a temperature of 160°C. The number of entangled decomposed yarns in the obtained fabric was 31/m, and the number of entangled portions with an entangled interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 30 opened portions was 15, and the number of entangled portions was 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. The number of certain fiber-spread portions was 10, and the number of fiber-spread portions having a length of 50 mm or more was five. As a result of evaluating the heathered feeling in the same manner as in Example 1, the obtained plain weave fabric had a rough-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a strong gradation effect, and the desired heathered feeling was obtained.

[Example 2]
Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.017) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) of 90 decitex 72 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48 filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable polyester side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min Highly oriented undrawn yarn) (original yarn B) is subjected to false twisting to give large fine spots under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process of FIG. , the yarn derived from raw yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was entangled and mixed with a special interlace nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd.) to obtain a composite false twisted mixed yarn.

FIG. 2 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. First, a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 (original yarn A), which will be the yarn A, passes through a guide 2, is sent out by a first feed roller 3, and is fed through a first heat pin 101 to a third feed. The yarn is stretched to form large fine spots between the rollers 102 , passed through the first heater 4 , and stretched and false-twisted heat-set between the fifth feed roller 103 via the first false twister 5 . The polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11 (original yarn B), which will be the yarn B, is similarly processed, passed through the guide 12 and sent out by the second feed roller 13, and passed through the second heat pin 105 to the fourth feed roller. 106 to form large fine spots, passes through the first heater 4 , and is subjected to draw false twist heat setting with the fifth feed roller 103 via the first false twister 5 . The two processed yarns are false-twisted, supplied to the entangling nozzle 7, entangled and mixed, and sent out as a composite false-twisted mixed yarn 9 by the sixth feed roller 104. , is taken up by the take-up roller 10 .

The number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 27/m, and the number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 13/m. Of the 30 spread parts, 12 spread parts have an intermingling interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, 10 spread parts have an interlacing distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 8 spread parts have an interlacing distance of 50 mm or more. became. The tensile strength was 2.01 cN/dtex, the elongation was 25.6%, the total fineness was 110.3 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 4.8%, and the yarn length difference was 2.5%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

The obtained composite false-twisted mixed yarn was used with a 28G circular knitting machine at a mixing rate of 100% to produce a circular knitted fabric with a jersey structure of 42 wales/2.54 cm and 73 courses/2.54 cm.

Next, the resulting circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. Intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. After that, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed with a cationic dye cationic blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes and dried according to a conventional method. The number of entangled yarns in the obtained knitted fabric was 18/m. Among the 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an intermingling interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 12, and the number of the spread portions having an interlacing interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 11, and the number of the spread portions is 50 mm or more. The number of parts is 9. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a rough-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a gradation effect, and the intended heathered feel was obtained. FIG. 4 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric. According to FIG. 4, three colors are obtained by combining two colors of cation-dyed yarn A depending on the shade of dyeing and one color of uncolored yarn B, and the entanglement interval between yarn A and yarn B is Appropriately controlled heather gives a unique faint heather, and the three colors appear to transition in a gradational fashion.

[Example 3]
Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.016) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) of 56 decitex 36 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48-filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable polyester side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min Highly oriented undrawn yarn) (original yarn B) is subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. A yarn B) was subjected to entangling and mixing processing with a special interlacing nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd.) to obtain a composite false twisted mixed yarn.

FIG. 3 is a conceptual diagram showing an example of a preferred method for producing the composite false twisted mixed yarn of the present invention. First, a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 (original yarn A), which will be the yarn A, passes through a guide 2, is sent out by a first feed roller 3, passes through a first heater 4, and undergoes a first false twist. Draw false twist heat setting is performed between the third feed roller 201 via the tool 5 . The first false twister 5 is subjected to S false twisting. The polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 11 (original yarn B) to be the yarn B is similarly processed, passed through the guide 12 and sent out by the second feed roller 13, passed through the second heater 203, and passed through the second false twister. 204 to a fourth feed roller 205 for draw false twist heat setting. The second false twister 204 is subjected to Z false twisting. The two processed yarns are supplied to the entangling nozzle 7, subjected to an entangling and mixed fiber treatment, sent out as a composite false twisted mixed yarn 9 by the fifth feed roller 202, and wound up by the winding roller 10. .

The number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 14/m, and the number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 6/m. Among the 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an intermingling interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 10, and the number of the spread portions having a entanglement interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 10, and the number of the spread portions is 50 mm or more. The number of parts was 10. The tensile strength was 2.11 cN/dtex, the elongation was 22.6%, the total fineness was 89.4 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.2%, and the yarn length difference was 2.8%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

The obtained composite false-twisted mixed yarn was used to produce a circular knitted fabric with a jersey structure with 48 wales/2.54 cm and 75 courses/2.54 cm using a 28G circular knitting machine at a mixing rate of 100%.

Next, the resulting circular knitted fabric was subjected to a liquid flow relaxation treatment according to a conventional method, followed by drying and intermediate setting. Intermediate set conditions were performed at a temperature of 170°C. After that, the obtained circular knitted fabric was dyed with a cationic dye cationic blue GRLH 200% at a temperature of 100° C. for 30 minutes and dried according to a conventional method. The number of entangled decomposed yarns in the obtained knitted fabric was 10/m, 11 of the 30 spread portions had an entanglement interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and the entanglement interval was 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. There were 9 parts and 10 spread parts with a length of 50 mm or more. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a rough-like heathered feel, and had a surface feeling with a gradation effect, and the intended heathered feel was obtained.

[Comparative Example 1]
90 decitex 36-filament cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48 filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min. According to the manufacturing process of 1, false twisting is performed under the conditions shown in Table 1, and each yarn (the yarn derived from raw yarn A is called yarn A, and the yarn derived from raw yarn B is called yarn B) is applied to an interlaced nozzle. to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed filament yarn.

As the interlace nozzle, an ordinary conventional interlace nozzle of a type in which an air jet is sprayed from one direction transverse to the running direction of the yarn and the filament traverses the jet was used.

The number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 105/m, and the number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 103/m. Of the 30 spread parts, 30 spread parts have an intermingling interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and 0 spread parts have an interlacing distance of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 0 spread parts have an interlacing distance of 50 mm or more. became. The tensile strength was 2.16 cN/dtex, the elongation was 23.4%, the total fineness was 113.2 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.6%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

Using the obtained mixed yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave fabric was produced with a warp density of 82/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72/2.54 cm. The heathered feeling was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The entangled number of the decomposed yarns of the obtained fabric was 104 pieces/m, and the number of the entangled portions in the 30 opened portions was 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm, and the number of the entangled portions was 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. The number of fiber-spread portions was 0, and the number of fiber-spread portions having a length of 50 mm or more was 0. The obtained plain weave fabric had a marbling-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel could not be obtained.

[Comparative Example 2]
Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.017) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) of 90 decitex 72 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48-filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.042) (cationic non-dyeable polyester side-by-side (polybutylene terephthalate / polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min Highly oriented undrawn yarn) (original yarn B) is subjected to false twisting to give large fine spots under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process of FIG. , the yarn derived from the raw yarn B is referred to as yarn B) was entangled and mixed with the same interlace nozzle as used in Comparative Example 1 to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

The number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 101/m, and the number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 100/m. Among the 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 30, and the number of the spread portions having an interlacing interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 0 and is 50 mm or more. The number of spread parts was 0. The tensile strength was 2.04 cN/dtex, the elongation was 25.9%, the total fineness was 110.6 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 4.7%, and the yarn length difference was 2.3%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

The obtained composite false-twisted mixed yarn was used with a 28G circular knitting machine at a mixing rate of 100% to prepare a circular knitted fabric with a jersey structure of 42 wales/2.54 cm and 73 courses/2.54 cm. The processing step was carried out under the same conditions as in 2, and the heathered feeling was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The number of interlaced decomposed yarns in the obtained knitted fabric is 100/m, and the number of spread portions having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 30 spread portions is 30 and is 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. The number of fiber-spread portions was 0, and the number of fiber-spread portions having a length of 50 mm or more was 0. The obtained circular knitted fabric had a marbling-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel could not be obtained. FIG. 5 is a drawing-substituting photograph showing the surface of the circular knitted fabric. According to FIG. 5, three colors are obtained by combining two colors of cation-dyed yarn A depending on the shade of dyeing and one uncolored color of yarn B, and the entanglement interval between yarn A and yarn B is obtained. is not properly controlled, resulting in a short transition of light and shade and having a frosted heathered feel, and the specific scraped heathered grain targeted in the present invention was not obtained.

[Comparative Example 3]
Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.016) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) of 56 decitex 36 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 2100 m / min (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48-filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.042) (cationically non-dyeable polyester side-by-side (polyethylene terephthalate) multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn of 90 decitex 48 filaments produced at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min Drawn yarn) (raw yarn B) is subjected to false twisting under the conditions shown in Table 1 according to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. (referred to as yarn B) was mixed with a taslan nozzle to obtain a composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

The obtained composite false-twisted mixed yarn was entangled by the taslan nozzle, and fine loops were formed. The tensile strength was 2.02 cN/dtex, the elongation was 22.1%, the total fineness was 89.8 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.3%, and the yarn length difference was 2.2%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

Using a 28G circular knitting machine with a mixture rate of 100%, the obtained composite false twisted mixed yarn was used to prepare a circular knitted fabric with a jersey structure with 48 wales/2.54 cm and 75 courses/2.54 cm. The processing step was carried out under the same conditions as in 2, and the heathered feeling was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The obtained knitted fabric yarn was entangled with the taslan nozzle, and fine loops were formed. The resulting circular knitted fabric had a marbling-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel could not be obtained.

[Comparative Example 4]
90 decitex 36-filament cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.018) (made of cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate copolymer) (raw yarn A ) and a 90 decitex 48 filament polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn (birefringence Δn: 0.036) (made of cationic non-dyeable polyethylene terephthalate) (raw yarn B) produced at a spinning speed of 2500 m / min. According to the manufacturing process of 1, false twisting is performed under the conditions of Table 1, and special interlacing is applied to each yarn (the yarn derived from raw yarn A is called yarn A, and the yarn derived from raw yarn B is called yarn B). A nozzle (KF-JET manufactured by Hebaline Co., Ltd.) was used for entangling and mixing to obtain an SZ composite false-twisted mixed yarn.

The number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.1 g/dtex was 53/m, and the number of entangled yarns under a load of 0.5 g/dtex was 35/m. Among the 30 spread portions, the number of spread portions with an intermingling interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm is 21, and the number of spread portions with an interlacing interval of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm is 9, and the number of spread portions is 50 mm or more. The number of parts became 0. The tensile strength was 2.15 cN/dtex, the elongation was 23.3%, the total fineness was 112.0 dtex, the hot water shrinkage was 5.5%, and the yarn length difference was 2.6%. The resulting composite false-twisted mixed yarn had a crimp structure of 100%, and had false-twisted crimps as a whole.

Using the obtained composite false-twisted mixed yarn as warp and weft, a plain weave with a warp density of 82/2.54 cm and a weft density of 72/2.54 cm was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1. Through the processing process, the heathered feeling was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. The entangled number of the decomposed yarns of the obtained fabric was 42/m, and the number of the entangled portions having an entangled interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in the 30 opened portions was 21, and the number of the entangled portions was 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm. The number of spread parts was 9, and the number of spread parts having a length of 50 mm or more was 0. The obtained plain weave fabric had a marbling-like heathered feel and a surface feeling with a weak gradation effect, and the desired heathered feel could not be obtained.

1: Cationic dyeable polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 2: Guide 3: First feed roller 4: First heater 5: First false twister 6: Third feed roller 7: Entangling nozzle 8: Fourth feed roller 9: Composite false twist mixed yarn 10: Winding roller 11: Polyester multifilament highly oriented undrawn yarn 12: Guide 13: Second feed roller 101: First heat pin 102: Third feed roller 103: Fifth feed roller 104: Sixth feed roller 105: Second heat pin 106: Fourth feed roller 201: Third feed roller 202: Fifth feed roller 203: Second heater 204: Second false twister 205: Fourth feed roller

Claims (8)

A composite false-twisted mixed yarn composed of at least two kinds of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, having false-twisted crimps as a whole, and having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and less than 25 mm in 30 spread portions. 1 or more and 15 or less parts, and 1 or more and 15 or less spread parts of 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 1 or more and 10 or less of spread parts of 50 mm or more Twisted mixed yarn. The thermoplastic multifilament yarn consists of a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A and a cationic non-dyeable multifilament yarn B, and the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn A is 20% by mass or more and 80% by mass or less. The composite false twisted commingled yarn of claim 1, comprising: 3. The composite false-twisted mixed yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one of said thermoplastic multifilament yarns comprises a latent crimpable thermoplastic multifilament yarn. The at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns each have thickness irregularities in the fiber axis direction, and the phases of the thick portions are shifted between the yarns, and the yarn structure has a partially reversible yarn length difference. and a substantial yarn length difference between yarns of 3% or less. The number of entanglements under a load of 0.1 g/dtex is 2 or more/m and 45/m or less, and the number of entanglements under a load of 0.5 g/dtex is 0/m or more and 30/m 5. The composite false twisted mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the yarn has a thickness of m or less. A woven or knitted fabric using the composite false twisted mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5 as at least a part of the woven or knitted fabric. A composite false-twisted mixed yarn composed at least in part of at least two types of thermoplastic multifilament yarns, having false-twisted crimps as a whole, and having an interlacing interval of 1 mm or more and 25 mm at 30 spread portions. 1 or more and 15 or less spread parts that are less than 1, and 1 or more and 15 or less spread parts that are 25 mm or more and less than 50 mm, and 1 or more and 10 spread parts that are 50 mm or more A woven or knitted fabric comprising a composite false-twisted commingled yarn which is: The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the number of entanglements in the composite false twisted mixed yarn is 1/m or more and 35/m or less.

Images