JP2004285504A - Hard twist yarn-like latent crimp finished yarn and woven and knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a hard twist yarn-like latent crimp finished yarn which develops a hard twist yarn-like delicate crispy feeling and drape property and exhibits natural dry touch, soft feeling and stretchability by weaving and knitting and dyeing, and a woven fabric and a knitted fabric. <P>SOLUTION: The hard twist yarn-like latent crimp finished yarn is a finished yarn obtained by falsely twisting a latently crimpable conjugate fiber multifilament having a cross section in which a polymer A and a polymer B are bonded side by side. The finished yarn has the bundled part of twisted yarn in the S direction and the bundle part of twisted yarn in the Z direction in the length direction of the finished yarn at least in a part and has a cross section not substantially deformed. Preferably the polymer A and the polymer B are polyesters of the same kind and have different relative viscosities. The ratio of the bundled part of twisted yarn in the S direction and the bundle part of twisted yarn in the Z direction in the finished yarn is preferably ≥30%. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2005,JPO&NCIPI

Description

【００２８】
比較例１
実施例１のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維マルチフィラメント延伸糸１１０ｄｔｅｘ２４ｆを用いて、撚糸機にてＳ方向に１０００Ｔ／Ｍの撚を施して、実撚りを有する比較用の加工糸を得た。この加工糸は、初期引張抵抗度は６１．７ｃＮ／ｄｔｅｘであり、断面変形度は１．０３であった。
【００２９】
得られた比較用の加工糸を用いて、実施例１と同様に平織物を製織、精錬、染色、仕上げ加工を行ったところ、得られた織物にはシャリ感とドレープ性、ストレッチ性はあったが、ナチュラル感、ソフトな風合いはなく、従来の織物と何ら変わりはなかった。
【００３０】
【発明の効果】
本発明の強撚糸様潜在捲縮加工糸は、製編織して染色することにより、強撚糸様の繊細なシャリ感とドレープ性を呈するとともに、ガサツキのないナチュラルドライタッチとソフトな風合い及びストレッチ性を有する布帛とすることができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の強撚糸様潜在捲縮加工糸の一製法例を示す概略工程図である。
【符号の説明】
１ 供給糸
２ スプール
３ ガイド
４ フィードローラ
５、８ ヒータ
６ 施撚装置
７ 第１デリベリローラ
９ 第２デリベリローラ
１０ パッケージ[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a strong twisted yarn-like knitted fabric that combines a natural dry touch without softness and a soft texture and stretchability while producing a delicate twist and drape like a strong twist by knitting and weaving and dyeing. The present invention relates to a twist-like latent crimped yarn and a woven or knitted fabric using the processed yarn.
[0002]
[Prior art]
In the women's and men's apparel field for spring and summer using synthetic fibers, for example, by forming a woven or knitted fabric using strong twisted yarns, irregular cross-section yarns, ceramic-containing fibers, etc., it gives a sense of crispness and dryness. Has been expressed. These materials have achieved a certain degree of effect through various innovations.
[0003]
However, although the above-mentioned strong twisted yarn can express a sense of sharpness and drape, it is very disadvantageous in terms of cost because it requires a strong twisting step and a heat setting step, and S twist or Z for one yarn. Since only one of the twists is uniform and the twisted pitch is uniform, there is little change and a natural feeling cannot be expressed.
[0004]
In addition, the modified cross-section yarn has a dry feeling due to a small number of contact points with the skin, but it is gritty, lacks the crispness like the above-mentioned strong twisted yarn, is inferior in the refreshing feeling, and is difficult to express the drape. It is.
[0005]
Furthermore, although the ceramic-containing fibers are kneaded or have a substantial cooling function due to the ceramic particles arranged in the core sheath, they are poor in sharpness, dryness and drape, and are very disadvantageous in terms of cost. .
[0006]
On the other hand, in Patent Document 1, false twisting is applied to a yarn composed of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber, and after twisting in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, A woven or knitted fabric woven using warp and / or weft has been proposed. However, although this method can provide excellent stretchability with latently crimped yarns, it still requires a heat setting process as in the case of the above-mentioned strong twisted yarns, which is very disadvantageous in terms of cost, and for one yarn. Since only one of S twist or Z twist has a uniform twist pitch, there is a problem that the change is scarce and a natural feeling cannot be expressed. Furthermore, since it is a normal false twisting process using a friction disk or the like, there has also been a problem that the cross-sectional deformation of the processed yarn progresses, causing roughness.
[0007]
Further, as a method for obtaining a natural feeling, Patent Document 2 discloses that a multi-filament yarn is subjected to intermittent false twisting operation, and several centimeters to several tens of centimeters long by S twist or Z twist in the longitudinal direction. A fancy yarn manufacturing method is described in which twisted converging portions and untwisted portions of metric order are alternately formed, and then a fluid treatment is performed while overfeeding multifilament yarn to form a number of loops, entanglements, and slack. Yes. However, the woven or knitted fabric using the fancy yarn has a soft volume feeling, warmth and graceful surface change, but has poor stretchability.
As described above, none of the conventional materials can satisfy the current consumer needs.
[0008]
[Patent Document 1]
JP 2000-226753 A [Patent Document 2]
Japanese Patent No. 2530596 [0009]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems, and exhibits a strong twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn capable of expressing a natural twisted touch, soft texture and stretchability while exhibiting a delicate twist and drape like a strong twisted yarn. And providing a woven or knitted fabric is a technical problem.
[0010]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the inventors of the present invention have substantially cross-sectionally deformed a processed yarn formed by false twisting of a side-by-side type latent crimpable composite multifilament made of polymers A and B. It has been found that by having an S-direction twisted yarn concentrating portion and a Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the longitudinal direction, it is possible to give a strong twisted yarn-like delicate sharpness and drape, natural dry touch and stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric. The present invention has been reached.
That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.
(1) A processed yarn obtained by false twisting of a latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament having a cross-section in which polymers A and B are bonded side-by-side, wherein the processed yarn is an S-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the longitudinal direction. And a Z-direction twisted yarn converging part at least in part, and is not substantially deformed in cross section.
(2) The strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to (1), wherein the polymers A and B are the same type of polyester and have different relative viscosities.
(3) The strongly twisted latent crimped yarn according to the above (1) or (2), wherein the occupation ratio of the S-direction twisted yarn converging portion and the Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the processed yarn is 30% or more.
(4) The strongly twisted latent crimped yarn according to any one of (1) to (3), wherein the initial tensile resistance is 20 cN / dtex or less.
(5) A woven or knitted fabric characterized in that the strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to any one of (1) to (4) is used at least in part.
[0011]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
First, the strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention is a processed yarn obtained by false twisting of a latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament having a cross section in which polymers A and B are bonded in a side-by-side manner.
[0012]
Examples of the polymers A and B include polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a polyester such as PET, a polyester such as polybutylene terephthalate and polypropylene terephthalate, and a polyamide such as nylon 6 and nylon 66. However, from the viewpoint of spinnability and cost, the polymers A and B are preferably the same kind of polyesters having different relative viscosities, particularly PET. In addition, the polymers A and B have a matting agent, an antioxidant, an ultraviolet absorber, a pigment, a hardener, an antibacterial agent, a conductivity-imparting agent, etc., as long as the essential characteristics are not impaired. You may contain a small amount of ingredients. Since these side-by-side composite fiber multifilaments have latent crimpability, the crimps are manifested by heat treatment such as dyeing, and the fabric using this processed yarn is imparted with appropriate stretchability. be able to.
[0013]
The processed yarn of the present invention can give a special crimp to the side-by-side latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament through a false twisting process. Here, the false twist is preferably a method in which a load is not applied to the side-by-side latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament because the processed yarn of the present invention can be easily obtained. Twisting is particularly preferred. However, pin false twist and friction false twist can be applied as long as they do not depart from the present invention.
In this way, twisting force due to torque acts during heat shrinkage due to false twisting, so the filaments are randomly arranged on the surface of the fabric using this processed yarn, and the surface is slightly changed A new texture can be obtained.
[0014]
In the present invention, it is necessary that the single filament constituting the latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament is not substantially deformed in cross section. As used herein, “substantially” means that the cross section is not deformed at all, or that the cross section is hardly deformed. Specifically, it is preferable that the average of 10 randomly selected satisfies the following formula in the degree of cross-sectional deformation represented by the ratio of the circumscribed circle and the inscribed circle.
Sectional deformation degree: R0 / R1 ≦ 1.20
Here, R0: the diameter of the circumscribed circle R1: the diameter of the inscribed circle As described above, by having substantially no cross-sectional deformation, it is possible to impart a natural and soft texture without roughness to the woven or knitted fabric.
[0015]
Further, the strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention needs to have at least a part of an S-direction twisted yarn converging portion and a Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the longitudinal direction of the processed yarn. The total occupancy of the directional twisted yarn converging portion and the Z direction twisted yarn converging portion is preferably 30% or more, particularly 40% or more. In this way, the twisted yarn is concentrated and the twisting direction is not only one side, so that a natural dry touch can be expressed along with the crispness and draping properties of the twisted yarn.
[0016]
In the case where the twisted yarn converging portion is not provided, it is impossible to impart a sense of sharpness, drape, and natural dry touch to the woven or knitted fabric. In addition, when the twist direction is only one direction, it is possible to impart a sense of sharpness and drape, but it is poor in natural feeling and becomes artificial.
Further, when the total occupancy ratio of the S-direction twisted yarn converging portion and the Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the processed yarn is less than 30%, the sharpness and drape may not be sufficiently obtained. However, if the proportion of the twisted yarn concentrating portion is too large, the sharpness is too strong or the stretchability is reduced. Therefore, the more preferable range is 90% or less.
[0017]
Furthermore, in the strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention, the initial tensile resistance is preferably 20 cN / dtex or less, particularly preferably 15 cN / dtex or less. As described above, since the initial tensile resistance is low, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric having a soft texture while having a twisted twisted feeling.
When the initial tensile resistance exceeds 20 cN / dtex, it is difficult to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric because hardness is imparted in addition to the twisted feel.
[0018]
Next, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the strong twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn is used for warp and / or weft. Here, being used for warp and / or weft means that it is used for at least a part of warp and / or weft and has a delicate twist and drape, natural dry touch and stretchability like a strong twist. The ratio of use is not particularly limited as long as it does not deviate from the object of the present invention to express, but generally 30% by mass or more, particularly 40% by mass or more is preferable with respect to the woven or knitted fabric.
[0019]
Next, an example of a method for producing a strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention. In FIG. 1, a supply yarn 1 that is a side-by-side latent crimpable composite multifilament made of polymers A and B is drawn from a spool 2, passed through a guide 3, a feed roller 4, a heater 5, a twisting device 6, False twisting is performed between the first delivery rollers 7. At this time, the supply yarn 1 is preferably a side-by-side latent crimpable composite multifilament drawn yarn having a high degree of orientation and crystallization so as not to substantially deform the cross section. Further, as the twisting device 6, a method of performing swirling with low tension using a fluid swirling nozzle is preferably used.
Next, the false twisted yarn is heat-treated by the first delivery roller 7, the heater 8, and the second delivery roller 9 to form a strong twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn, and is wound around the package 10.
[0020]
In the false twisting process, as the false twisting conditions in which cross-sectional deformation does not occur in the polymers A and B constituting the side-by-side latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament, the capability of the twisting device 6, preferably However, the number of false twists is preferably 300 to 2000 T / m, more preferably 500 to 1500 T / m, and the draw ratio is set to be as low as possible. It is preferable to perform false twisting under low tension so that the filament is not loaded. Moreover, what is necessary is just to adjust false twisting conditions suitably, such as an overfeed rate and the pressure of a turning nozzle, so that the occupation rate of the S direction twist yarn converging part in a processed yarn may become 30% or more.
[0021]
[Action]
According to the present invention, by performing false twisting on the side-by-side latent crimpable composite multifilament, the twisting force due to false twisting torque acts randomly. It can give a natural and novel texture with a delicate stretch and a slightly changed surface.
[0022]
Furthermore, by twisting the yarns and having a form in which the twisting direction is not only one, it is possible to express a natural dry touch feeling as well as a twisted feeling and draping.
In addition, when the initial tensile resistance is 20 cN / dtex or less, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric with a soft texture while having a twisted feel.
[0023]
【Example】
Next, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples.
In addition, the measurement of each physical property in an Example and evaluation were performed as follows.
(1) Initial Tensile Resistance Based on JIS L-1013 Chemical Fiber Filament Yarn Test Method 7.10 “Initial Tensile Resistance”, measurement was performed at a sample length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm / min.
(2) Occupancy rate T (%) of the S-direction twisted yarn converging portion and the Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the processed yarn
Measure the length S (cm) of the S-direction twisted yarn concentrating portion and the length Z (cm) of the Z-direction twisted concentrating portion in the sample 100 (cm) visually or with a magnifying glass. Expressed as an average of 5 times.
T (%) = (S + Z) / 100 × 100
[0024]
Example 1
As polymer A, PET having an intrinsic viscosity ηa of 0.38 is used, and as polymer B, PET having an intrinsic viscosity ηb of 0.67 is used, and composite spinning is performed in a side-by-side manner at a composite ratio of 1: 1 (spinning speed 3000 m / min). ), A side-by-side latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament drawn yarn 110dtex24f drawn by a drawing machine was used as a supply yarn, and a fluid swirling nozzle was used for the twisting device 6 according to the steps shown in FIG. To obtain a 130 dtex 24f strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention.
[0025]
When the cross section of the processed yarn was confirmed, the cross section was not substantially deformed, and the side surface of the processed yarn had an S direction twisted yarn converging portion and a Z direction twisted yarn converging portion, and the S direction twisted yarn converging portion in the processed yarn And the occupation ratio T of the Z direction twisted yarn converging part was 55%. The initial tensile resistance was 5.8 cN / dtex, and the cross-sectional deformation was 1.12.
[0026]
Using the processed yarn obtained, weaving a plain woven fabric with a warp density of 82 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 70 / 2.54 cm in a water jet loom, and then refining, dyeing and finishing by conventional methods As a result, a soft, woven fabric with a natural dry touch and stretchability was obtained, as well as an unprecedented mild and delicate sharpness and drape.
[0027]
[Table 1]

[0028]
Comparative Example 1
Using the side-by-side type composite fiber multifilament drawn yarn 110dtex24f of Example 1, 1000 T / M was twisted in the S direction by a twisting machine to obtain a comparative processed yarn having an actual twist. This processed yarn had an initial tensile resistance of 61.7 cN / dtex and a cross-sectional deformation of 1.03.
[0029]
Using the obtained processed yarn for comparison, weaving, refining, dyeing, and finishing a plain woven fabric in the same manner as in Example 1, the resulting woven fabric has no sharpness, drape, and stretchability. However, there was no natural feeling and soft texture, and it was no different from conventional fabrics.
[0030]
【The invention's effect】
The strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention is produced by weaving and dyeing to give a delicate twist and drape like a strongly twisted yarn, as well as a natural dry touch without softness and a soft texture and stretchability. It can be set as the fabric which has.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram showing an example of a method for producing a strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn of the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Supply yarn 2 Spool 3 Guide 4 Feed roller 5, 8 Heater 6 Twisting device 7 1st delivery roller 9 2nd delivery roller 10 Package

Claims (5)

A processed yarn obtained by false twisting a latent crimpable composite fiber multifilament having a cross-section in which polymers A and B are bonded side-by-side. A strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn having a twisted yarn converging portion at least in part and substantially not deformed in cross section. The strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to claim 1, wherein the polymers A and B are the same type of polyester and have different relative viscosities. The strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to claim 1 or 2, wherein an occupation ratio of the S-direction twisted yarn converging portion and the Z-direction twisted yarn converging portion in the processed yarn is 30% or more. The strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, having an initial tensile resistance of 20 cN / dtex or less. A woven or knitted fabric characterized in that the strongly twisted yarn-like latent crimped yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is used at least in part.

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