JP2004059441A - Cosmetic for lip and improving agent for lip roughening - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To prepare a cosmetic for lips and an improving agent for lip roughening having an effect on the improvement of the lip roughening. <P>SOLUTION: The cosmetic for the lips is obtained by formulating at least one or more kinds selected from an extract from Prunus armeniaca L., an oil of the Prunus armeniaca L., an extract from oolong tea and an extract from Daucus carota L. having effects on a rise in a keratin peeling enzyme activity. The improving agent for the lip roughening comprises the oil of the Prunus armeniaca L. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

【００２２】
評価の結果を下記に示す。本実施例のリップクリームは、口唇荒れに対し優れた改善効果を有していた。

【００２３】
実施例５、６、７、８、比較例２
表２に示す実施例５、６、７、８、及び、比較例２は口紅であり、溶解混合後、冷却固化し前記評価試験を行った。表２中の数字は質量％である。
【００２４】
【表２】

【００２５】
評価の結果を下記に示す。本実施例の口紅は、口唇荒れに対し優れた改善効果を有していた。

【００２６】
実施例９、１０、１１、１２、比較例３
表３に示す実施例９、１０、１１、１２、比較例３はリップグロスであり、溶解混合後、容器に充填し前記評価試験を行った。表３中の数字は質量％である。
【００２７】
【表３】

【００２８】
評価の結果を下記に示す。本実施例のリップグロスは、口唇荒れに対し優れた改善効果を有していた。

【発明の効果】
以上の記載のように、本発明は、口唇荒れに対して優れた改善効果を有する口唇用化粧料及び口唇荒れ改善剤を提供できることは明らかである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】口唇角質層の剥離酵素活性と外観に基づく荒れのグレードの相関を示す。
【図２】本発明に用いられる各種抽出物のカセプシンＤ酵素活性に及ぼす効果を示す。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a lip cosmetic having an excellent effect of improving lip roughness, and to a lip roughness improving agent.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Lips are known to be very rough parts of human skin due to physical, chemical and environmental factors.
In recent years, as lip research has progressed, it has been confirmed that the water content of the stratum corneum decreases with the roughening of the lips, and the frequency of parakeratosis increases as the degree of the roughening increases (Himi, Cosmetic Society Journal, 18, 133-138, 1994). A detailed study of the stratum corneum of the lips suggests that in rough lips, old keratinocytes remain without detachment, resulting in thickened parts, and in some cases, peeling or tearing of that part of the skin. I have. The keratinocytes are connected to each other by an adhesion protein called desmosome. The detachment of old keratinocytes is thought to occur by the degradation of this desmosome by endogenous proteases. Previous studies have shown that the serine-based protease, the stratum corneum-specific chymotrypsin-like enzyme (SCCE), and the aspartic enzyme, caspepsin D, are involved in exfoliation of the stratum corneum (Lundstrom, Acta Dermatol Venereol, 71). , 471-474, 1991), (Horikoshi, Br J Dermatol, 141, 453-459, 1999). Actually, the activity of cepsin D is reduced in the rough lips, which is considered to be one of the causes of the stratum corneum thickening.
[0003]
In order to prevent and improve such roughening of the lips, conventional lip cosmetics form an oil film on the lips to prevent the evaporation of water, and to dry by incorporating a moisturizing component such as polyhydric alcohol. Measures have been taken to improve the feeling and bulkiness. However, these are symptomatic, and few have attempted to improve the thickening of the stratum corneum, which causes lip roughening.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a lip cosmetic and a lip roughening agent which improve the rough state by promoting exfoliation of the keratinocytes of the lip.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
Based on this background, the present inventors have conducted intensive research and have found that a lip cosmetic containing at least one or more selected from apricot extract, apricot oil, oolong tea extract, and carrot extract, and cathepsin The present inventors have found that a lip roughening agent composed of apricot oil that enhances D activity promotes exfoliation of aged keratinocytes of the lips, and as a result, has an excellent effect of improving a roughened state, thereby completing the present invention.
[0006]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail based on embodiments of the present invention. The apricot extract used in the present invention is purified from fruit juice, fruit or seed obtained by pressing fruits of Hong apricot (Prunus armenica L.), apricot (Prunus armenica L. ansu Maximowicz) or a plant (Rosesae) related to the apricot extract. It is an extract obtained by extraction with water, a lower alcohol such as ethanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, or a mixture thereof. Apricot oil is a fatty oil obtained by squeezing or extracting with a fat-soluble solvent from the seeds of the aforementioned apricot, apricot or related plants. The oolong tea extract is obtained by extracting oolong tea leaves produced from tea (Thea sinensis L.) with purified water, a lower alcohol such as ethanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, or a mixture thereof. Or a fraction obtained by dry distillation under reduced pressure. The carrot extract is obtained by squeezing the carrots (Daucus carota L.) from the roots of the carrots, or purifying water from the carrot roots or lower alcohols such as ethanol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, or a mixture thereof. It is an extract obtained by extraction. The method for preparing these extracts and oils is not particularly limited. In lip cosmetics having many oily types, apricot oil, which is a fat oil of apricot seed, is particularly preferably used. The concentration of these components to be blended in the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 1.0% by mass of the apricot extract as a dry residue based on the total amount of the lip cosmetic. % By mass. Apricot oil is preferably from 0.005 to 10.0% by mass, more preferably from 0.02 to 5.0% by mass, as a seed-derived fat or oil. The oolong tea extract preferably has a dry residue of 0.0005 to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.005 to 0.5% by mass. Carrot extract is preferably 0.001 to 5.0% by mass as a dry residue, more preferably 0.01 to 1.0% by mass.
[0007]
The following ingredients commonly used in cosmetics other than the essential components described above, such as paraffin wax, polyethylene wax, synthetic hydrocarbon wax, and microcrystalline wax, are used in the lip cosmetic of the present invention as long as the objects of the present invention are not impaired. , Ceresin, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, polyoxyalkylene-modified polyethylene wax, polyethylene propylene copolymer, dextrin fatty acid ester, solid oily raw material such as 12-hydroxystearic acid, vaseline, heavy liquid isoparaffin, polybutene, lanolin, lanolin derivative , Tri (capryl-caprin-myristin-stearic acid) glyceride, phytosteryl oleate, higher fatty acid, higher alcohol, sucrose fatty acid ester, hydrogenated oil, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid (Cholesteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl), paste-like oily raw materials such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid di (phytosteryl / behenyl / 2-octyldodecyl), liquid paraffin, squalane, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, sunflower Oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, macadamia nut oil, cottonseed oil, diisostearyl malate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl ricinoleate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, lavender oil, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (cholesteryl / 2-octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di (phytosteryl / 2-octyldodecyl), dimer diol diester, dimer Liquid oily raw materials such as acid diester, dimer diol monoester, dimer diol dimer acid ester, glyceryl tri (caprylate / caprate), propylene glycol dicaprylate, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl triisostearate, olefin oligomer, dimethicone, cyclomethicone, Phenylmethicone, silicone raw materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, carboxyvinyl polymer, xanthan gum, agar, gelatin, hyaluronic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, xylitol, maltitol, water-soluble polymers such as sodium alginate, 1,3-butylene glycol, Humectants such as glycerin, dipropylene glycol, ethyl glucoside, silica, talc, mica, kaolin, sericite, bentonite, sulfuric acid Barium, Mica titanium, Boron nitride, Alumina, Titanium oxide, Iron oxide, Silk powder, Nylon powder, Cellulose, Carbon black, Bengala, Zinc oxide, Ultramarine, Navy blue, Lithium cobalt titanate, Manganese violet, Tar pigment, Natural pigment Powder pigments, ultraviolet absorbers, various vitamins, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances and the like.
[0008]
Examples of the lip cosmetic of the present invention include, but are not limited to, lip balm, lipstick, lip gloss, lip base, and lip coating agent.
[0009]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to specific examples. The present invention is not limited to the following embodiments.
[0010]
Test Example 1 (Exfoliating enzyme activity of lip stratum corneum and rough lip)
The exfoliating enzyme activity of the stratum corneum of the lips was measured, and the relationship with the roughness was examined.
[0011]
<Judgment based on appearance of rough lips>
Roughness of the lips of the subject was determined based on the appearance according to the following criteria.
−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−
Appearance Rough grade ----------------------------------
Not rough 0
Dry 1
Advanced drying, scale 2
−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−
[0012]
<Collection of stratum corneum>
A pressure-sensitive adhesive layer for collecting the stratum corneum (bare skin checker, registered trademark) was adhered to the collecting portion of the lip at a constant pressure, and then slowly peeled off to collect the stratum corneum.
[0013]
<Measurement of peel angle mass>
For the determination of the peel angle mass, the peeled keratin sheet was captured as an image with a film scanner (Ls3500, manufactured by Nikon), and the peel angle mass was determined by an image analyzer (Nexus 6800, manufactured by Nexus).
[0014]
<Measurement of exfoliating enzyme activity>
The exfoliating enzyme activity is determined by reacting the oxidized insulin B chain (manufactured by Sigma) with exfoliating keratin using the substrate as a substrate, and cleaving by caspepsin D or SCCE present in the exfoliating keratin. It was determined by quantification. A circular sheet having a diameter of 6 mm was punched from the exfoliated keratin sheet with an office punch. This sheet was placed in a well of a 96-well type microplate with the keratin attachment surface facing up. Here, in the case of casepsin D, 50 μL of a 1 mg / mL oxidized insulin B chain solution (0.1 mol / L citrate buffer, pH 3.0, 0.01 wt% Triton X-100) is added and reacted at 37 ° C. for 2 hours. I let it. In the case of SCCE, a 0.5 mg / mL oxidized insulin B chain solution (0.1 mol / L morpholinoethanesulfonic acid, pH 6.0, 0.01 wt% Triton X-100, 5 mmol / L EDTA, 50 μg / mL pepstatin) is used. 50 μL was added and reacted at 37 ° C. for 20 hours. The reaction product was applied to a YMC-pack ODS-A, A-312 column (YMC) and analyzed by HPLC. At a flow rate of 2 mL / min, 25 vol% acetonitrile-0.1 vol% trifluoroacetic acid for the first 5 minutes and 0.1 vol% trifluoroacetic acid subjected to a gradient of 25-33 vol% acetonitrile for the next 5 minutes. Eluted. Finally, elution was continued for another 5 minutes with 33 vol% acetonitrile-0.1 vol% trifluoroacetic acid. Detection of the decomposition product peak was performed by ultraviolet absorption at a wavelength of 220 nm. The value obtained by dividing the peak area of the decomposition product specific to each enzyme by the mass of the peeling angle was used as an index of the enzyme activity.
[0015]
The results are shown in FIG. In the rough lips, the activity of cepsin D was reduced. On the other hand, no change was observed in the activity of SCCE.
[0016]
Test Example 2 (Confirmation of enzyme activity increasing effect)
The increase in the activity of the cathepsin D activity by continuous application to the skin was evaluated. In the test, peach fruit apricot (manufactured by Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), which is a pressed fruit juice of apricot fruit, was used as an apricot extract, and apricot oil (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), which was a pressed fat oil derived from apricot seed core (apricot kernel), was used as an apricot oil. As an oolong tea extract, an oolong tea extract (manufactured by Maruzen Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), which is a 45 vol% ethanol extract of oolong tea, and a carrot pressed juice, Homo Fruit Carrot (manufactured by Koei Kogyo Co., Ltd.), was used as a carrot extract. The test article was dissolved in a 50 vol% ethanol aqueous solution (hereinafter referred to as a base) to prepare a test solution. However, in the case of apricot oil, 95 vol% ethanol was used as a base. The concentration of the test product was 1.0 wt% as a dry residue in the case of apricot extract, 5.0 wt% as a fat derived from apricot in the case of apricot oil, 0.05 wt% as a dry residue in the case of oolong tea extract, In the case of carrot extract, the content was 1.0 wt% as a dry residue. 30 μL of the test solution was uniformly applied to a 2 × 5 cm area on the skin. As a control, 30 μL of the base was similarly applied to the adjacent site. Application was performed once a day for 7 consecutive days. The day after the final application, the stratum corneum was collected by tape stripping using Scotch mending tape (12 mm width) manufactured by 3M. The tape was adhered to the site where the stratum corneum was collected, the surface was gently pressed with a uniform force, and then the tape was peeled off. This series of operations was performed once, and the stratum corneum was sampled twice consecutively, and the exfoliated protein amount and the capsepsin D activity were measured using the stratum corneum collected the second time. A region of 6 mm in diameter on the exfoliated stratum corneum was treated with 50 μL of 1 mol / L NaOH at room temperature for 2 hours to elute protein. After neutralization with 1 mol / L HCl, bovine serum albumin was quantified using a BCA protein assay kit (manufactured by PIERCE) as a standard and used as an index of the amount of exfoliated protein. On the exfoliated stratum corneum, 50 μL of an oxidized insulin B chain solution (1 mg / mL) was reacted at 37 ° C., pH 3.0 (0.1 mol / L citrate buffer) for 2 hours in a region having a diameter of 6 mm. After completion of the reaction, the product was applied to HPLC to analyze the decomposition product. The peak area per protein amount obtained by dividing the peak area of the decomposition product by the amount of the exfoliated protein was used as an index of the activity of the cathepsin D.
[0017]
FIG. 2 shows the results. In all the test products, the effect of increasing keratin Cepsin D activity was confirmed.
[0018]
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples, but prior to this, the evaluation test method will be described in detail.
[0019]
<Evaluation test method of lip roughening improvement effect>
Twenty-five subjects with rough lips were divided into five groups of five subjects, and the samples were applied at least twice a day for one week. Before and after continuous use, the state of the lips was determined based on the appearance based on the following criteria, and the average of the totaled results was taken as the evaluation result.
−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−
Appearance Rough grade ----------------------------------
Not rough 0
Slightly dry 1
Dry 2
Dry and thickening of stratum corneum 3
The stratum corneum is thickened, with cracks and scales 4
−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−−
[0020]
Examples 1, 2, 3, 4 and Comparative Example 1
Examples 1, 2, 3, 4 and Comparative Example 1 shown in Table 1 are lip balms, which were dissolved and mixed, cooled, solidified, and subjected to the evaluation test. The numbers in Table 1 are% by mass.
[0021]
[Table 1]

[0022]
The results of the evaluation are shown below. The lip balm of this example had an excellent improving effect on rough lips.

[0023]
Examples 5, 6, 7, 8 and Comparative Example 2
Examples 5, 6, 7, 8 and Comparative Example 2 shown in Table 2 were lipsticks, which were dissolved and mixed, cooled, solidified, and subjected to the above-mentioned evaluation test. The numbers in Table 2 are% by mass.
[0024]
[Table 2]

[0025]
The results of the evaluation are shown below. The lipstick of this example had an excellent improvement effect on rough lips.

[0026]
Examples 9, 10, 11, 12 and Comparative Example 3
Examples 9, 10, 11, 12 and Comparative Example 3 shown in Table 3 are lip glosses, and after dissolution and mixing, filled in containers and subjected to the above-described evaluation test. The numbers in Table 3 are% by mass.
[0027]
[Table 3]

[0028]
The results of the evaluation are shown below. The lip gloss of this example had an excellent improvement effect on rough lips.

【The invention's effect】
As described above, it is apparent that the present invention can provide a lip cosmetic and a lip roughness improving agent having an excellent effect of improving lip roughness.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 shows the correlation between the exfoliating enzyme activity of the stratum corneum of the lips and the roughness grade based on appearance.
FIG. 2 shows the effect of various extracts used in the present invention on the activity of cathepsin D enzyme.

Claims (2)

A lip cosmetic containing at least one selected from apricot extract, apricot oil, oolong tea extract, and carrot extract. Lip roughening improver consisting of apricot oil that enhances the activity of cepsin D

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