JP2002516835A - Cosmetic or dermatological preparation containing catechin or green tea extract - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] The present invention relates to plants or plant parts containing catechins or bile acid esters of catechins or bile acid esters of catechins, such as water or organic extracts of leaves of the camellia botanical family, especially Camellia sinensis species (green tea). Or the use of typical components thereof (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids, etc.) for the prevention, treatment and / or treatment of dry skin conditions.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention comprises active ingredients for treating and protecting the skin, in particular sensitive and dry skin, very particularly aging or aged skin due to intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors. Or a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising
or dermatologic preparations, and the use of said active ingredients and combinations of said active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

The term “cosmetic skin care” mainly refers to barriers against environmental influences (eg dust, chemicals, microorganisms) and endogenous substances (eg water, natural fats, electrolytes).
means enhancing or rebuilding the innate function that the skin performs as a barrier.

[0003] Deterioration of such functions can increase the absorption of toxic or allergic substances or increase the attack by microorganisms, which leads to toxic or allergic skin reactions. Could be

[0004] Another purpose of skin care is to compensate for lipid and water loss caused by daily cleaning of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is not sufficient. Skin care products can also include environmental impacts, especially sun and wind.
And should also provide protection against delay skin aging.

The stratum corneum of the skin, on the one hand, protects the skin from the loss of water of living cells and the invasion of extraneous poisons, and, on the other hand, by constraining the water in a limited amount, Characterized by having a special structure that stabilizes the flexibility of
Intercellular lipids composed of free sterols, fatty acids and various types of ceramides form a barrier in the stratum corneum in the form of a water-impermeable extracellular multilayered tissue.

[0006] Such lipid membranes surround the dead corneocytes (which store hygroscopic substances). The stratum corneum constantly regenerates, and fine flakes (keratinocytes to which the lipids adhere) continually detach from the outside, resulting in keratinized cells and lipid material inside. Thus, in an equilibrium state, such a regeneration process results in a loss of trans-epidermal water.
No change in epidermal water is caused.

[0007] Simply entering water without added surfactant also initially results in swelling of the stratum corneum of the skin, the degree of swelling being dependent, for example, on the duration of the bath and its temperature. Not only are water-soluble substances, such as the water-soluble components of dust, washed away, but also substances (endogenous to the skin) that contribute to the water-binding capacity of the stratum corneum. . In addition, and as a result of the presence of endogenous surfactants on the skin, to a certain extent, fats contained in the skin are also dissolved and washed away. After the initial swelling occurs, such subsequent rinsing will greatly dry the skin, and the degree of such drying may be due to washing-active additives.
Is higher if is present.

In healthy skin, such events generally do nothing because the skin's protective mechanisms can easily make up for such minor disturbances in the skin. However, deviations from normal, such as environmental, photodamage (photod)
wear, damage caused by skin aging, etc.
When a deviation occurs as a result of mage) or irritation, the protective mechanisms of the skin surface are impaired, even if they are not pathological. Moreover, under certain circumstances, the skin can no longer play its own role, so that it has to be regenerated by external means.

[0009] Furthermore, when the skin of young and old people changes pathologically and becomes dry, and when the skin is not diseased but the skin is dry, the composition and amount of lipids contained in the stratum corneum have the same age. It is also known to deviate from the normal state found in healthy, hydrated normal skin of the group. In this context, the altered pattern of lipids contained in eczema-free and very dry skin of atopic eczema patients is
Skin is an example of an extreme case of deviation found in dry skin of a healthy person.

Here, ceramides are very particularly affected by such deviations, the number of ceramides being greatly reduced and additionally the composition being different. Here, in particular the deficiency of ceramides 1 and 3 is surprising, but in particular ceramide 1 is known to increase the order of lipids in the intercellular membrane tissue in a special manner.

The average changes in lipid membranes of the type described above are probably based on inaccurate control of lipid biosynthesis, and the net effect is that transepidermal Water loss will increase. This in turn weakens the barrier permanently, making the skin that was itself healthy sensitive, and in some cases contributes to the skin becoming sick and eczema processes appearing.

The effects that ointments and creams have on the stratum corneum barrier function and hydration are:
There is usually no point in reconstructing or enhancing the physicochemical properties of the intercellular lipid lamina. The essential partial effect is based on simply covering the skin area so treated and thereby blocking the water in the underlying stratum corneum. The moisture content of the stratum corneum is increased to a measurable extent as a result of the co-applied hygroscopic substance binding to the water. However, such purely physical barriers can be removed relatively easily. Stopping use of such a product quickly returns the skin to its state before starting such treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of such skin care may decline after regular treatment, which means that the treatment will eventually reach its current state even during treatment. For certain products, discontinuing its use may, in some circumstances, cause a temporary deterioration of the condition of the skin. Thus, in general, the permanent effect of a product will not be achieved, or will only be achieved to a limited extent.

[0013] In order to help defective skin naturally regenerate and enhance its physiologic function, recently an intercellular lipid mixture intended to be used by skin to rebuild the natural barrier has been developed. Examples of addition to topical preparations are increasing. However, such lipids, especially ceramides, are very expensive raw materials. In addition, the effects they show are often much lower than desired.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to find a way to avoid the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, the effects of skin care products must be physiological, rapid and permanent.

According to the present invention, such a purpose is to provide plants or plant parts having a certain content of catechins or gallic acid esters of catechins or catechins or gallic acid esters of catechins, for example, Camellia botanic (Th
eaceae plant family, especially Camellia sinensis (Ca
water or organic extracts from leaves of M. sinensis species (green tea) or typical components thereof (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids) Etc.) in the prevention, treatment and / or treatment of dry skin conditions.

Catechins are a group of compounds to be considered as hydrated flavones or anthocyanidins. Catechins constitute a basesubstance of a set of natural oligo- or polymeric tannins, for example contained in tea. They are present along with other phenolics in many types of fruits and brown in areas that have been stressed or cut (eg in apples)
(Phenol oxidase acts as a catalyst).

The basic substance “catechin” [catechol, 3,3 ′, 4 ′, 5,7-flavanpentol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) chroman-3,5,7-
(Triols) are widely found in plants, for example, in catechu. This is the structural formula

[0018]

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It is characterized by

Epicatechin [(2R, 3R) -3,3 ′, 4 ′, 5,7-flavanpentol is an epimer of catechin, which has the structural formula

[0021]

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It is characterized by

A plant extract having a certain content of catechins (vegetabel extr)
With the aid of a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising acts), in particular a preparation comprising a green tea extract, the object according to the invention is likewise achieved.

Tea is exclusively derived from the leaves, leaf buds and delicate stems of the tea plant (Camellia sinensis L.), the processing of which is withering, rolling, fermentation, shredding. And drying and the like.
Black tea is a fermented tea, and oolong tea is a semi-fermented tea (with the withering and rolling leaves being fermented for only half the normal otherwise,
Dried). Green tea is an unfermented product [soak the leaves in boiling water (blan
, rolled and dried product, which retains the color of the natural leaves].

The composition of the materials contained in the tea leaves can vary considerably depending on the source and the treatment. Black tea contains 18.9% of catechins and catechin tannins on average, 16.6% of protein,
2.7% caffeine, 10.2% other nitrogen compounds, 4.6% oligosaccharides,
It comprises 0.6% starch, 11.9% pectin, 7.9% cellulose and 6.1% lignin. The composition of the fresh leaves is essentially the same, but contains higher levels of catechins (26%) and lower levels of nitrogen compounds (8.7% for the same caffeine content). And 0.8% inositol. Polyphenol tannins comprise about 80% catechins (main component is galloyl-(-)-epigallocatechin).

Surprisingly, plants of the order Camellia (Theales order) [Camellia, especially the Camellia species, very particularly the tea variety Camellia sinensis, C. et al. Asamika, C. assamica, C. taliensis
And C.I. C. irrawadiensis and their hybrids, such as Camellia japonica
And the like). It has been found that extracts extracted from leaves generally increase the rate of synthesis of ceramides in human skin, especially the rate of synthesis of ceramides 1, 2 and 3 several times.

Green tea contains, in addition to catechins (eg, catechin and epicatechin), also gallic acid esters of such active ingredients, and such gallic esters are also effective according to the present invention.

The present invention further relates to plants or plant parts having a certain content of catechins or gallic esters of catechins or catechins or gallic esters of catechins, such as Camellia plantaceae, especially Camellia sinensis ( Water or organic extract from leaves of green tea) or typical components thereof (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids, etc.)
Is also used for the purpose of stimulating sphingolipid synthesis or for enhancing the lipid barrier of human skin.

The skin care product according to the invention is preferably a water or organic extract from plants or plant parts having a certain content of catechins or gallic esters of catechins or catechins or gallic esters of catechins. Preferably, polyphenols or (−)-catechin, (+)-catechin, (−)-catechin gallate, (−)-gallocatechin gallate, (+)-epicatechin, (−)-epicatechin, ( -)-Epicatechin gallate, (-)-epigallocatechin and (
-)-Comprising 0.0001-20 weight percent catechins of the group of epigallocatechin gallate.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention is preferably a plant or a part of a plant having a certain content of catechins or gallic esters of catechins or catechins or gallic esters of catechins. Of water or organic extracts of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total composition of the preparation.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are very particularly preferably prepared from plants or plants having a certain content of catechins or catechin gallates or catechins or catechin gallates. Water or organic extract from a portion comprises 0.01-1% by weight, based on the total composition of the preparation.

The topical preparation according to the present invention comprises:
Liquid, pasty or solid preparations, such as aqueous or alcoholic solutions,
It can be formulated as an aqueous suspension, emulsion, ointment, cream, gel, oil, powder or stick and the like. Depending on the desired formulation, the active ingredient may be applied to pharmaceutical and cosmetic bases for topical application, to which additional ingredients such as oils, fats and waxes, emulsifiers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, Containing ionic and / or non-ionic surfactants, lower mono- and polyhydric alcohols, water, preservatives, buffers, thickeners, fragrances, dyes and opacifiers. Is also good. The active ingredients according to the invention can also be used to advantage in transdermal therapeutic systems, in particular cubic systems.

[0033] Care topical preparations
Additives such as vitamins, coenzymes, substrates, and cofactors for lipid or energy metabolism, and other cosmetic or dermatological auxiliaries or active ingredients, such as pyridoxine, pyridoxal, pyridoxamine, uridine, L-serine, weak carboxylic acids with _a pKa value in the range of 3 to 5.5 (e.g. lactic and propionic acids), citric acid, pyruvate and cellular energy convertors
rs) (eg, creatine, guanine, guanosine, adenine, adenosine, nicotine, nicotinamide, riboflavin), coenzymes (eg, coenzyme Q ₁₀ , pantothenic acid, panthenol, liponic acid), cofactors (eg, L-carnitine), Substrates (eg, hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids), taurocholic acid, lipids (eg, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, singosine, sphingomyelin,
Glucocerebrosides), substrates (eg hexoses, pentoses, fatty acids)
, Glutathione and / or natural hydration factor
Advantageously, urizing factors (eg amino acids, urea, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, glycerol) and the like are added.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. Such antioxidants are advantageously prepared with amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid)
And their derivatives, peptides, such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg, anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their Derivatives, chlorogenic acids and their derivatives, lipoic acids and their derivatives (eg, dihydrolipoic acid), gold thioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, and the like) Glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, lauryl,
Palmitoyl, oleyl, gamma-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropylate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and Salts) and sulfoximine compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine,
Buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine)
[Accepted doses are very low (eg, picomoles to μmol / kg)], and also (metal) chelators (eg, α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg, citric acid). Acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extract, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, E
GTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (eg, γ-linoleic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and the benzoin resin coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α -Glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac acid, nordihi Log Ai array tick acid (nordihydro
guaiaretic acid), trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg, ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (eg, selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (Eg, stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of the active ingredients suitable for use according to the invention. Choose from

[0035] The cosmetic and dermatological preparations may also be sunscreened.
) Is also suitable. To them, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, preferably additionally, at least one UV-A filter substance and / or
Alternatively, it contains at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

However, it is also within the meaning of the present invention to provide cosmetic and dermatological preparations whose main purpose is not protection against sunlight but which contains a certain amount of UV protective substances. It is advantageous. Thus, UV-A and / or UV-B filter substances are added in the usual manner to, for example, day creams.

UV protection substances and, if desired, preservatives, like antioxidants, are also examples of effectively protecting the preparation itself against deterioration.

In order to provide a cosmetic preparation which protects the hair and / or skin from UV radiation in all areas, the preparation according to the invention advantageously also comprises substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range. Is also possible, in which case such a filter substance (
The total amount of filter substances is, for example, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
It may be 0 to 6.0% by weight. They can also be used as sunscreens for hair or dermatology.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble UVB filters advantageously used according to the invention are: 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, Preferably 2- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-
Ethylhexyl, amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate,
-Isopentyl methoxycinnamate;-esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;-derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4- Methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2
'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;-esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably
2-ethylhexyl), a derivative of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably 2,4,6-trianilino (p
-Carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

The list of said UVB filters which can be used in combination with the active ingredient combinations according to the invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to formulate the preparations according to the invention together with UVA filters (commonly present in cosmetic preparations). Such materials are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, especially 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3-. (4′-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

The present invention also relates to an active ingredient according to the invention and an antioxidant, a substance for anaerobic cell energy metabolism and / or a UV absorber (the use of which, for example, improves the stability and action of the preparation) (Especially in topical preparations).

The above examples of active ingredients that can be combined in a given active ingredient group have been given for the purpose of illustrating the invention and are in no way intended to limit the invention to such examples.

Furthermore, the substances according to the invention can be added, for example, to hydrogenated amphiphiles (hydrogen).
Incorporating (encapsulating) in, for example, liposomes, micelles, nanospheres, etc., made from ated amphiphilic agents, such as ceramides, fatty acids, sphingomyelin and phosphoglycerides. Depending on the case, it is also possible to apply a protecting formulation form. It is also possible to achieve additional protection by using the packaging and hermetic form used in the formulation of the protective gas (eg N _2, CO _2).

Further auxiliaries and additives can be water-binding substances, thickeners, fillers, perfumes, dyes, emulsifiers, active ingredients, such as vitamins, preservatives, water and / or salts.

The group of substances according to the invention can be added to all cosmetic bases. However, in principle, W / O and O / W and W / O
/ W emulsions, aqueous dispersions (hydrodispersions) and oil dispersions (lipodispersions) are preferred. The combination according to the invention can be used particularly advantageously in care products, such as O / W creams, W / O creams, O / W lotions and the like.

The lipid phase can be advantageously selected from the following group of substances: mineral oils, mineral waxes, oils, for example triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, preferably castor oil; fats, waxes and others Natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably fatty acids and low-carbon alcohols, such as esters such as isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, fatty alcohols and low-carbon esters of alkanoic acids or fatty acids; alkyl benzoates; silicon. Oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or aqueous or oil dispersions within the meaning of the invention is preferably saturated and / or having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Group of esters made from unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms Selected from the group consisting of aromatic carboxylic acids and esters made from saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 to 30 carbon atoms. In that case, such ester oils are advantageously isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate. , Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-stearic acid
Ethyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, ersyl oleate, ersyl erucate, and the synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as jojoba oil
il).

The oily phase can also be advantageously used as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, silicone oils, dialkyl ethers, saturated or unsaturated branched or unbranched alcohols, and fatty acids. Or triglycerides of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from 8 to 24, in particular from 12 to 18, carbon atoms. It is possible. Such fatty acid triglycerides are advantageously from the group of, for example, synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil and the like. Can be selected.

Also, any mixture of such oil and wax components can be advantageously used within the meaning of the present invention. In some cases, it may be advantageous to use waxes alone, such as cetyl palmitate, as the fat component of the oil phase.

Such an oily phase is advantageously prepared with 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate (ccoate), C _12-15 -alkyl benzoate, caprylic acid / caprin Select from the group of acid triglycerides and dicaprylyl ether.

[0052] In particular, benzoic acid C _12-15 - alkyl and mixtures 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, benzoate C _12-15 - alkyl mixture of isotridecyl isononanoate and benzoate C _12-15 - alkyl and isostearic acid 2- Mixtures of ethylhexyl and isotridecyl isononanoate are preferred.

Among the hydrocarbons, paraffin oils, squalane and squalene are advantageously used within the meaning of the invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further comprise a certain amount of cyclic or linear silicone oil, or the entire oil phase may be composed of such an oil. It is preferred to use other oil phase components in additional content in addition to the species or more.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils can advantageously be used within the meaning of the invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane and poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Particular preference is given to mixtures of cyclomethicone with isotridecyl isononanoate and of cyclomethicone with 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparation according to the invention may advantageously comprise optionally: low-carbon alcohols, diols or polyols and their ethers, preferably ethanol , Isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, monoethyl or monobutyl ether of ethylene glycol, monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether of propylene glycol, monomethyl or monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol, and similar products, and also alcohols with low carbon number Such as ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, and especially silicon dioxide, aluminum silicate, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, such as arsenic Ruuron acid, xanthan gum, a group such as hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously polyacrylates, preferably a so-called Carbopol (Ca
rbopol), such as Carbopol grades 980, 981, 1382,
One or more thickeners advantageously selectable from the group of polyacrylates belonging to the group of 2984, 5984 (in each case individually or in combination).

In the technical sense, the term “gel” refers to an easily deformable dispersion system comprising at least two components and exhibiting relatively dimensional stability.
ems), which generally refers to colloidally dispersed substances (often solid) (such as gelatin, silica, polysaccharides) having long chain molecular groups as the backbone forming groups and liquid dispersions It is composed of a dispersant (eg, water). The colloidally dispersed material is often referred to as a thickener or a gelling agent. This forms a three-dimensional network in the dispersant, in which case the individual particles present in their colloidal form may be more or less tightly bound to one another by electrostatic interactions. The dispersants surrounding the network are distinguished by exhibiting an electrostatic affinity for the gelling agent, ie, predominantly polar (especially hydrophilic) gelling agents are preferably polar dispersants (particularly water) While the predominantly non-polar gelling agent preferably gels the non-polar dispersant.

For example, cross-linking of the dispersing agent is similarly caused by strong electrostatic interactions realized not only by the hydrogen bridging bond between the gelling agent and the dispersing agent but also by the hydrogen bridging bond between the dispersing agent molecules themselves. Can be brought to a high degree. Hydrogel (hydro
gels) can be composed essentially of 100% water (plus, for example, containing about 0.2-1.0% of a gelling agent), which results in an overall solid consistency.
(consistency). In this case, the water content (water c)
is present in the elements of the ice-like structure, thus this means treating the gel legitimately against its name source [Lat. "Gelatum" = modern term "gelatin" from "frozen" through the alchemistic term "gelatina" (16th century)].

The gel according to the present invention usually comprises an alcohol having a small number of carbon atoms, for example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and water in the presence of a thickener, and comprises an oily alcohol-based gel. (Oily-alcoholi
In the case of c gels), silicon dioxide or aluminum silicate is preferably present, and in the case of water-alcohol or alcohol-based gels, polyacrylate is preferably present.

The preparation of the preparations according to the invention can also be carried out, for example, by foam baths.
) And shower preparations, solid and liquid soaps or so-called "Sindettos (s)
(yndets) "(synthetic detergents), shampoos, hand washing pastes, personal hygiene products, specific detergents for children, and the like.

It is also possible to advantageously distinguish the preparations according to the invention by the content of surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphiles that allow non-polar organic substances to dissolve in water. They have a special molecular structure, having at least one hydrophilic and at least one hydrophobic molecular part, resulting in low surface tension of water, moistening the skin, removing and dissolving dirt. To facilitate rinsing and to control lathering if desired.

Most of the hydrophilic portion of the surfactant molecule is a polar functional group, for example, —COO ⁻
, -OSO ₃ ^2- , -SO _3- ^{and the} like, while the hydrophobic portion is usually a non-polar hydrocarbon group. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic molecular moiety. In this connection, it is possible to distinguish between the following four groups:-anionic surfactants,-cationic surfactants,-amphoteric surfactants, and-nonionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactant usually has a carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate group as a functional group. They form negatively charged organic ions in aqueous solutions in acidic or neutral media. Cationic surfactants are substantially exclusively characterized by the presence of quaternary ammonium groups. They form positively charged organic ions in aqueous solutions in acidic or neutral media. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and thus exhibit the behavior of anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution, which is pH dependent. They have a positive charge in strongly acidic media and a negative charge in alkaline media. In contrast, in the neutral pH range, they are zwitterionic, for illustrative purposes, as shown below: RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOHX ⁻ (when pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, for example if ^{_{Cl - RNH 2 + CH 2 CH}} 2 COO - ( when _{pH = 7) RNHCH 2 CH 2} COO - B + ( when pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg if Na ⁺ Polyether chains are typical of nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in aqueous media. A. Anionic surfactants Anionic surfactants which can be used to advantage are acylamino acids (and their salts), for example: Acyl glutamates, such as sodium acyl glutamate, di-TE
1. A-palmitoyl aspartate and capric / capric sodium glutamate; 2. acyl peptides, such as palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen; 3. sarcosinates, such as myristoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate; 4. Taurates, such as sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate; 5. acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate; Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as alaninates; Carboxylic acids such as lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate (
1. Undecylenate); 2. ester carboxylic acids such as calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and PEG-4 sodium lauramide carboxylate; Ether carboxylic acids, such as sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamidocarboxylate; phosphate esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate; sulfonic acids and salts, such as 1. 1. acyl isethionates, such as sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate; 2. alkylaryl sulfonates; 3. Alkylsulfonates, such as sodium coco monoglyceride sulfate, sodium _C12-14 -olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamido sulfate; Sulfosuccinates such as dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamide-MEA sulfosuccinate and the like, and sulfate esters such as Alkyl ether sulphates, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 Palace sulfates, 2. Alkyl sulfates such as sodium, ammonium and TEA
Such as lauryl sulfate. B. Cationic surfactants Cationic surfactants which can optionally and advantageously be used are: 1. alkylamines, 2. alkyl imidazoles; 3. ethoxylated amines, and 4. quaternary surfactant; Ester quats.

A quaternary surfactant contains at least one N atom covalently linked to four alkyl or aryl groups. They provide a positive charge regardless of pH. Preference is given to alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultaines. The cationic surfactant used according to the invention can also suitably be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium chloride or bromide, such as benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, and also alkyltrialkyl. Ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromide, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride or bromide and the like, and alkylamidoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts such as Lauryl- or cetylpyridinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives,
And it can also be selected from compounds having cationic properties, for example, amine oxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. In particular, the use of cetyltrimethylammonium salt is advantageous. C. Amphoteric surfactants Amphoteric surfactants which can advantageously be used are: 1. acyl / dialkylethylenediamines, such as sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate; N-alkyl amino acids such as aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate and the like. D. Nonionic surfactants The nonionic surfactants which can be used with advantage are: Alcohols, 2. 2. alkanolamides such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA; 3. Amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide; 4. Esters resulting from the esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitol or other alcohols; Ethers such as ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohol, ethoxylated / propoxylated ester, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol ester, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterol, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride ester, ethoxylated / propoxylated 5. Lanolin fluorinated, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and the like, and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and coco glycoside. 6. sucrose esters, sucrose ethers, 7. polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters, Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

The present invention will be described with reference to the following examples. Unless indicated otherwise, amounts, percentages or parts are based on weight, in particular on the total weight of the preparations or the individual mixtures.

Example 1 W / O type skin cream by weight Vaseline German Pharmacopeia (GP) 9 Glycerol GP 9 Paraffin oil Cetyl stearyl alcohol / PEG-40 castor oil / Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate [Eutanol ™ G, Henkel KGAA) Green tea extract Perfume, preservative, dye Required amount of water 100.00 Amount of green tea extract is stirred into the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was warmed to 75 ° C. and the fat phase was added and homogenized with stirring until a homogeneous cream was formed.

Example 2 W / O type skin cream% by weight PEG-1 glyceryl oleostearate + paraffin wax Vaseline GP paraffin wax / paraffin paraffin oil Ceresin octyldodecanol propylene glycol glycerol magnesium sulfate Perfume, preservative, dye Required amount Deionized water Amount to become 100.00 The green tea extract is stirred into the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was warmed to 75 ° C. and the fat phase was added and homogenized with stirring until a homogeneous cream was formed.

Example 3 W / O Type Skin Cream Weight% Octyldodecanol [Emulgade ™ F, Henkel KGaA] Cetearyl Alcohol / PEG-40 Paraffin Oil Castor Oil / Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate [Eutanol ™ G, Henkel KGaA) (-)-Epigallocatechin gallate Glycerol GP 9 Aroma, preservative, dye Required amount Deionized water 100.00 Amount (-)-Epigallocatechin gallate is dissolved in the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was warmed to 75 ° C. and the fat phase was added and homogenized with stirring until a homogeneous cream was formed.

Example 4 O / W Lotion wt% Steareth-2 Steareth-21 Cetyl stearyl alcohol / PEG-40-castor oil / Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate [Eutanol ™ G, Henkel KGaA] Paraffin Oil Propylene glycol, glycerol (-)-catechin Perfume, preservative, dye Required amount Deionized water 100.00 Amount (-)-Catechin is dissolved in the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was warmed to 75 ° C., to which the fatty phase was added and then homogenized with stirring until a pale yellow homogeneous solution resulted.

Example 5 O / W lotion wt% octyldodecanol [Emulgade ™ F, Henkel KGaA] Cetylstearyl alcohol / PEG-40-castor oil / sodium cetylstearyl sulfate [Eutanol ™ G, Henkel KGaA Cetearyl isononanoate [cetiaryl] [Cetiol (trademark) 5N, Henkel KGaA] Paraffin oil (-)-Gallocatechin gallate glycerol GP 9 Required amount of perfume, preservative, dye Amount of deionized water 100.00 (-)- Gallocatechin gallate is dissolved in the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase was then warmed to 75 ° C. and the fatty phase was added and homogenized with stirring until a homogeneous emulsion formed.

Example 6 Skin Oil Weight% Glyceryl tricaprylate [Miglyol (TM) 812, Dynamit Nobel] Hexyl laurate [Cetiol (TM) A, Henkel KGaA] Octyl stearate [Cetiol (TM) 886, Henkel KGaA] Paraffin oil Green tea extract The ingredients are stirred at 25 ° C. until a homogeneous and clear mixture results.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuing on the front page (72) Inventor Schytep, Franz Deutsche D. 21379 Ehem Betzkas Utrath 3 (72) Inventor Max, Heiner Deutsche D. 22297 Hamburg Kloch Mansch Jürth 82be (72) Inventor Zandhoff , Konrad Germany Day-53347 Alter Auf Demplatt 12 (72) Inventor Deling, Thomas Germany Day-53773 Hennef Kreuzf Eltschütlerase 12 F-term (reference) 4C083 AA111 AA112 AA161 AB362 AC012 AC072 AC092 AC122 AC352 AC422 AC432 AC581 AC782 AC841 AC842 AC852 AD042 AD191 AD611 BB11 CC02 CC04 CC05 DD32 EE12 EE13

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A plant or plant part having a certain content of catechin or gallate of catechin or catechin or gallate of catechin for preventing, treating and / or treating dry skin conditions, such as camellia plants Family, in particular, water or organic extracts from leaves of Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or typical components thereof (eg polyphenols or catechins, caffeine,
Use of vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids, etc.). 2. A plant or plant having a certain content of catechin or gallate of catechin or catechin or gallate of catechin for stimulating sphingolipid synthesis or enhancing the lipid barrier of human skin. Water or organic extracts from parts of, for example, camellia plants, especially Camellia sinensis species (green tea) or typical components thereof (eg, polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugars, minerals, amino acids, lipids) Use). 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the catechin or two or more catechins are (-)-catechin,
(+)-Catechin, (-)-catechin gallate, (-)-gallocatechin gallate, (+)-epicatechin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epicatechin gallate, (-)-epi 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is selected from the group of gallocatechin and (-)-epigallocatechin gallate. 4. A cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a plant extract containing a certain amount of catechin, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising a green tea extract. Use according to 2.