JP2002371460A - Method for processing washable pleats on silk woven fabric and silk woven fabric having washable pleats - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for treating a 100% silk fabric processed with washable pleats, and a silk fabric treated with the pleats processing not collapsing in contact with water. SOLUTION: This method for processing washable pleats not collapsing in contact with water on a silk woven fabric is provided by folding pleats of the 100% silk fabric treated with water repelling process without damaging the touch feeling of the silk, putting it into an oven, and steaming with 95-105 deg.C steam for 40 minutes, and the method for treating the silk woven-fabric with pleats is also provided.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for pleating a 100% silk fabric which does not break even when exposed to water, and to a pleated silk fabric which does not break even when exposed to water.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art According to the Senken Shimbun on March 1, 2001, "Pleating of natural fibers" was entitled "Pleating with natural fibers, which has been impossible until now. "They are taking great action to respond," he said. "Materials are wool, cotton, hemp, and silk. The story of exporting to Europe is also moving forward."
However, a proviso is added, which states that "silk is handled by dry cleaning." In other words, as this article suggests, for dry silk, pleating will not fall if dry cleaning is performed without water, but it will fall if immersed in water. For natural fibers other than silk, a processing method that can be safely immersed in water has been developed. However, as for silk, a pleating method that does not collapse even in water has not been developed.

Heretofore, there have been many skirts, scarves, etc., obtained by pleating a 100% silk fabric, which are sold all over the world. However, these pleated silk products are all vulnerable to water, and when immersed in water, the pleats fall off.
In fact, they are sold with unavoidable quality labels. It is well known that silk has the disadvantage of being vulnerable to water, and it was common knowledge that even if pleats were applied to the silk fabric, it could be removed only by immersing it in water. Conventionally, there has been no pleated product made of 100% silk, in which the pleated folds and the like do not collapse even when exposed to water. Moreover, the reason why silk is vulnerable to water has not been elucidated to date.

[0004] In general, pleating is not limited to silk.
Processing has been performed by processing methods according to each material. In the case of synthetic fibers, pleating has been performed by utilizing the thermoplastic property, that is, the property of softening by heating and fixing by cooling. Also, in the case of semi-synthetic fibers such as silk yarns for the warp yarns and polyester yarns for the weft yarns, processing using the thermoplasticity of the synthetic resin yarns has been performed similarly. However, even for fabrics made of 100% silk, even if they are pleated like synthetic or semi-synthetic fibers,
It was impossible to make pleats that would not collapse when exposed to water.

[0005] In general, a pleating method for pleating dough is to form a pleated mold by heating, and depending on the dough, further put into a kiln, apply steam, and then dry to complete the processing. In the case of synthetic fibers such as polyester, pleating is possible without putting it in a kiln, but most dough is put in a kiln, steam heat is applied evenly to the back of the dough, and then dried. The processing method is performed. However, a pleating method similar to synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers could not provide pleats that would not fall on water to 100% silk fabric.

[0006] Even if pleating is applied to a cloth made of 100% silk, the pleats are loosened in one hour after leaving the kiln. In addition, pleats fell in a few seconds when steam was applied quickly. It was not possible to produce a product that could be sold without labeling prohibiting washing and that could not be pleated when exposed to water. The reason for this has not been clear.

[0007] The first problem is that pleats applied to silk are removed when exposed to water, and why silk is vulnerable to water. The present applicant has conducted research on this problem, and has concluded that the cause is that silk becomes thicker when it contains moisture, and that the portion becomes heavier, sagging, and loses its shape. In the process of applying a general pleating process, it is a serious problem in the case of silk that the problem of low water absorption is not a problem in the case of a fabric having low water absorption. Problems occur during the stage of applying steam heat in the pleating process. When the silk absorbs water, even if you try to pleate the silk, the silk fabric becomes fat and there is no way to attach it. It's like putting a pleat on a water pillow filled with water. It doesn't have a mold. Unless water is absorbed, the pleats will not stick or will collapse. The high water absorbency, which absorbs about 30 grams of water with respect to 100 grams of silk, was the reason that pleating was not possible in the case of a 100% silk fabric.

Next, as a second problem, there is a problem of how to overcome the water-sensitive property of silk. If it is a characteristic of the silk fabric that water is absorbed, the water should not be absorbed. In that case, it is only necessary to make silk fabric that repels water
The applicant has concluded that research has been conducted on whether 100% silk fabric cannot be completely water-repellent.

[0009] Conventionally, water repellent finishing has been widely performed on woven fabrics. In many cases, the water-repellent treatment mainly uses a fluorine-based resin. When a fluororesin is used, the fluororesin attached to the surface of the yarn has a higher fluorine density on the surface, lowers the adhesion to water molecules, and even when wet with water, the water droplets become spherical and run down It is believed that the phenomenon occurs. Water repellency is exhibited when the fluorine of the fluorine-based resin is neatly arranged on the fabric surface.

What kind of phenomenon occurs when fluorine is not regularly arranged on the fabric surface? Water-repellent umbrellas have identified specific problems. Nylon, polyester,
Water-repellent umbrellas made of materials such as cotton and silk are in circulation, but it has been pointed out that natural materials have reduced water repellency at the folds where the fluff of the fabric is rubbed. In the water repellent treatment of umbrellas, the mainstream is to use a fluorine resin.Water repellency is exhibited when fluorine is lined up on the surface of the fabric, but when folding the umbrella, the fabric at the fold is Is rubbed, and the arrangement of fluorine in this portion is disturbed, so that the water-repellent function is reduced, that is, the function of repelling water is reduced. Umbrellas with reduced water repellency generally tend to think that the fluorine has been removed, but the fluororesin remains just because the arrangement is disturbed. It has been proved that it becomes soft by heat and the arrangement of fluorine returns to its original state, and the water repellency is long lasting. Even if it is rubbed, make sure that the arrangement of fluorine in the fluorine-based resin attached to the surface of the fabric does not disturb, especially for natural fibers with fluff in the fabric, a processing method that does not get wet with water is necessary Met. In the case of umbrellas, a processing method with strong adhesiveness solves this problem, but the texture of silk has been greatly impaired. There has not yet been a method of applying a water-repellent treatment without impairing the texture of silk.

As described above, umbrellas have water repellency, but umbrellas have been subjected to very strong water-repellent treatment because it is an essential condition that they do not leak any water. Texture on the surface of the silk fabric (fine irregularities created on the surface of the fabric. Due to the size of the texture, and the size of the texture, the texture is rough, three-dimensional, soft, matte, and has an interesting appearance) The water-repellent agent is applied so that almost no effect is obtained, the suppleness is reduced by half, the stiffness is increased, and the texture of the silk is impaired. Still, silk umbrellas
Although its lightness and suppleness are prized, it is a completely waterproof type that forms a waterproof film on the fabric, and it has crushed even the fine holes through which the air passes.

How to apply a water repellent treatment without impairing the texture of silk? It is well known that the texture of silk has a great effect on the texture of silk as a characteristic of silk. If the texture of the silk is lost and the luster is lost, the elegance of the silk is impaired. Therefore, the same texture before and after the water repellent treatment is applied to the clothing made of 100% silk. This is a mandatory condition.

The biggest problem with the prior art is that, in the case of waterproofing applied to 100% silk fabric, even if the fabric is made water-repellent in the same manner as synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers, the fabric is rough. In this case, the texture, luster and other functionalities unique to silk are impaired. This is the third problem.

The following are the conventional water-repellent processing techniques. It is widely known that by treating a fiber material with a water-repellent agent using a fluorine-based resin, a chlorine-based resin, a silicon-based resin, a petroleum-based resin, or a ketone-based resin, water- and oil-repellency can be imparted. Chlorine-based resins are difficult to manage to comply with the Labor Safety Law, and silicon-based resins often involve discoloration of the fabric. Currently, the most widely used is that there is no need to control the alkalinity and acidity of the solution,
It is a fluororesin that does not cause discoloration of the fabric. However, when air-dried after washing several times, there is a problem that the water-repellent performance is remarkably reduced, and there have been proposed some manufacturing methods which can solve this problem and maintain the water-repellent performance for a long time. I have.

(Conventional Water Repellent Process No. 1) For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-302271 discloses a method of mixing a fixed ratio of a polar solvent into a conventional water repellent and oil repellent solution. A polyfluoroalkyl group-containing fluoropolymer capable of exhibiting water and oil repellency, and a secondary alcohol having 4 to 8 carbon atoms of 10% by weight or more based on the fluoropolymer and propylene, glycol, monoalkyl ether, acetate And a solvent-type water- and oil-repellent composition containing at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of:

First, a water and oil repellent is applied to a fiber material, impregnated, and dried to remove the solvent. Thereafter, drying by heating is usually employed, but drying may be performed at room temperature. The drying is performed at a temperature of about 60 ° C. or lower, usually 40 ° C. or lower.
Through these steps, the fiber material has been subjected to a water-repellent treatment. Conventionally, it has been difficult to impart high water and oil repellency to natural fibers, especially cotton, when dried at room temperature. It can be improved remarkably.

However, in the above method, when the fibers are treated with a treatment liquid using a fluorine-containing water / oil repellent using an organic solvent as a solvent, a large amount of bubbles are generated in the treatment liquid, and the bubbles adhere to the fabric and dry. By doing so, there is a problem that the adhesion amount of the fluorinated water- and oil-repellent agent partially increases, spot-like stains are generated, and the surface quality of the fiber material is significantly reduced.

(Conventional Water Repellent Process No. 2) As a method for suppressing the generation of bubbles by using a water and oil repellent using an organic solvent as a solvent, an antifoaming agent is generally used in combination. Examples of the antifoaming agent include long-chain alcohols, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, and alkyl polysiloxanes. However, long-chain alcohols, hydrocarbons, and vegetable oils have a small defoaming effect, and in order to produce the effect, the amount of addition must be increased, and a decrease in water / oil repellency is inevitable. Alkylpolysiloxanes generally have a high defoaming effect, but have a small defoaming effect in a treatment solution using a water / oil repellent using an organic solvent as a solvent, and a large amount of addition is required to achieve the effect. In addition, there is a problem that not only is the water- and oil-repellency performance inevitably reduced, but also the seam slippage and the anti-snag property of the fabric are reduced, and the texture is also unique to silicone.

(Conventional Water Repellent No. 3) In order to solve spot-like stains that degrade the surface quality of this fiber material, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-302583 discloses that at least one side of a fibrous material of a fabric is Also disclosed is a method for producing a fabric having a water / oil repellent which is treated with a treatment liquid comprising a fluorine-containing water / oil repellent containing an organic solvent as a solvent and an antifoaming agent containing a fluorine compound.

(Conventional Water-Repellent Processing No. 4) A processing method for imparting water-repellent and water-resistant performance excellent in washing resistance to a fabric containing 50% or more of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber is also known. In Japanese Patent Publication No. Hei 6-94626, an aqueous dispersion or emulsion containing a fluorine-based water repellent alone or a mixture of a fluorine-based water-repellent and a silicon-based water-repellent is applied to a fabric containing 50% or more of thermoplastic synthetic fibers. Water repellent treatment process of drying and heat treatment,
A calender / hot water treatment step of performing warm water treatment at 40 to 100 ° C. after calendering so that the air permeability is 10 cc / square centimeter or less, and discloses a durable, water-repellent and water-repellent method of fabric having air permeability. . The water-repellent treatment may be performed before or after the calendering / hot water treatment step, but it is characterized in that the hot water treatment step is performed after the calendering treatment. The paper-like appearance by calendering is improved, the fabric is given durable water resistance, and the change in water resistance due to washing is reduced. By the warm water treatment, the potential deviation between the fibers and the fabric of the fabric was previously manifested and stabilized, and it was possible to minimize the decrease in water resistance during washing by the consumer.

(Conventional Water Repellent Process No. 5) In recent years, demands for water repellency have been increasing mainly in the sports clothing field and the uniform clothing field, and accordingly, dry cleaning and washing of water repellent clothing have been accompanied. It has been strongly desired to improve the level of durability with respect to. Japanese Patent No. 3079766 discloses a method for producing a fabric having high water repellency, deep color, and excellent durability against washing or dry cleaning. After treating the fiber structure with at least one of a fluorine-based and silicone-based water-repellent agent dissolved in an emulsion or a solvent, the fiber structure is treated in an ozone atmosphere or in a wet state without drying, or corona discharge treatment And then drying. With conventional water-repellent products made of fluororesin or silicone resin, when washing or dry cleaning is performed, methyl groups and fluorine-containing groups that contribute to water repellency penetrate into the resin film, and the water-repellent performance is greatly reduced. However, a feature of the present invention is that the durability of the processing agent has been dramatically improved.

(Conventional water-repellent finish No. 6) On the other hand, in the case of silk fiber products, while maintaining the organoleptic properties derived from the appearance such as the excellent feel and feel and the gloss and luster inherent to silk fibers,
Modification processing techniques for imparting easy care properties have been developed in the following three groups. The first is intra-fibrous polymerization called grafting with a vinyl monomer, which is mainly intended to reduce the cost of the silk fiber product, which gives the silk fiber product a heavy feel and a unique luster with tin and tannic acid. The second is a method of modifying under modified conditions using a thermosetting resin precondensate or a fibrin reactive resin or a reactant applied to the processing of a fibrous fibrous product. The third is a chemical processing method mainly for imparting a crosslinking effect by a polyfunctional compound such as an epoxy compound.

However, it has been pointed out that these all have the following disadvantages. The first method remarkably departs from the viewpoint of imparting functionality used for general apparel applications, and the second method has a tendency to reduce the texture of the silk fiber itself due to high-temperature heat treatment, yellowing tendency, and The improvement in gender is not always as expected. Therefore, we have to find a way out of the remaining third method.
No. 53544 discloses a treatment method comprising a first step of treating with an epoxy compound and a second step of treating with a cellulose-reactive crosslinking agent.

However, also in this production method, the reduction of the processing time cannot be promoted through the mass production process because it is not a unified process, which is a disadvantage of productivity. Furthermore, the chlorine-based solvent used as the epoxy compound solution recommended from the flame retardant, with the washing after the reaction is completed,
It has also been pointed out that there is a small amount of this that flows out of the system.

(Conventional Water-Repellent Process No. 7) Various methods have been disclosed as methods for solving the drawbacks in a mass production system. However, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-195431 discloses the following method. ing. After the poly (ethylene glycol) impregnated and dried silk fiber product is saturated with a polyfunctional epoxy compound aqueous reaction solution such that the water content in the reaction solution is in the range of 40 to 100% by weight with respect to the silk fiber product. In this method, a treatment liquid-containing silk fiber product is heated by inserting hot air into a reaction chamber of a closed system treatment apparatus, and is subjected to wet heat treatment by saturated steam generated by moisture contained in the silk fiber product. By this method, abrasion resistance, yellow-brown resistance,
Although the wet wrinkle resistance and the washing shrinkage are greatly improved, the weakness of silk fiber, which is weak to water, cannot be overcome. Therefore, this publication does not mention water repellency of silk fibers.

In order not to impair the unique functionality of silk, a waterproofing process is not disclosed, but JP-A-62-23107 discloses a method for modifying a protein fiber product.
As disclosed in No. 9, it is necessary to block functional groups such as amino groups, carboxyl groups, alcoholic hydroxyl groups, and phenolic hydroxyl groups in protein fibers. In other words, in order to maintain the texture of the silk, the functional groups such as amino group, carboxyl group, alcoholic hydroxyl group, and phenolic hydroxyl group, which are characteristic of the silk, are not bonded to other substances so that the type of the functional group is not destroyed. It is to be. Here, a treatment method of impregnating a composition containing an epoxy compound having an epoxy group which is easily reacted at a molecular terminal is described.

Although the above is the prior art for water repellent treatment, the technique of pleating 100% silk fabric has also been a subject of great difficulty. Traditionally,
Pleating has been easily performed on synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, wool fabrics and the like. In the case of synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers, the mold is folded in and heat is applied to deform the thermoplastic portion of the fibers by heat, and then cooled at once to form a pleated mold. Pleating methods include hand pleating and machine pleating. In the case of hand pleating, the pleats were manually put into a mold and then placed in a kiln. In the case of synthetic fibers, steam was applied at about 110 ° C. for about 30 minutes. There are some differences in temperature depending on the size of the kiln.
In the case of machine pleating, dough sandwiched between papers is folded by a machine at this time.
Since heat of ~ 200 ° C is applied, synthetic fibers are pleated in this state. In addition, in the case of wool fabric, there was white set processing. This is a method of semi-permanently folds, pre-folding the slacks and skirt, spraying 2-4% ammonium thioglycolate aqueous solution, sandwiching it with a Hoffman press, passing water vapor, and further using a vacuum pump. This is a processing method in which outside air is sucked and cooled. However, no pleat was formed even if an attempt was made to pleate or fold the water-repellent 100% silk fabric in the same manner as synthetic fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, and woolen fabrics. With the conventional pleating temperature setting and processing time, the color of the fabric changes and the texture of the silk is impaired. Pleating of the fabric without water repellency was not possible as described above.

[0028]

The problem must be solved in order to apply a water-repellent treatment to a 100% silk fabric without impairing the texture of the silk and to apply a pleating process that does not collapse even if the fabric is exposed to water. The following seven conditions can be considered as conditions that must not be satisfied. (1) A processing method in which water repellency is applied to silk to stop the water absorption of the silk. (2) Even if such a processing method is applied, a processing method that maintains a unique texture of silk. (3) A processing method for solving spot-like stains caused by the partial increase of the water repellent and uniformly attaching the water repellent. (4) When using a fluorine-based resin, a processing method in which the fluorine of the resin is arranged in order on the fabric surface so as to exhibit water repellency. Further, a processing method for preventing the arrangement of the fluorine of the fluorine-based resin adhered to the surface portion of the cloth from being disturbed even when being rubbed. (5) Further, a processing method in which the texture and texture on the surface of the 100% silk fabric are the same before and after the water-repellent processing. (6) A processing method of pleating suitable for 100% silk fabric subjected to water repellency. (7) A processing method that provides a pleat that does not lose its texture or texture even when pleated, and that does not collapse even when exposed to water.

There is no water-repellent method for maintaining water-resistant pleating properties on 100% silk fabric, and there is no pleated silk fabric that is water-resistant and durable. . A water-repellent method for solving the above-mentioned problems and maintaining pleating properties in a 100% silk fabric, and a silk fabric obtained by subjecting a 100% silk fabric, which has heretofore been impossible, to a pleated process resistant to water. But was sought. An object of the present invention is to provide a method for processing a silk fabric having pleats that can be washed, which does not collapse even when exposed to water, and a silk fabric that has pleats, which can be washed with water.

[0030]

According to the present invention, there is provided a method for applying pleats which can be washed with water and which does not collapse even when exposed to water, according to the present invention. It is characterized in that pleats are folded into the dough, put in a kiln and exposed to steam at 95 ° C to 105 ° C for about 40 minutes.

Further, the processing method for applying pleats that can be washed to the silk fabric according to the present invention is a method of emulsifying a 100% silk fabric with an emulsified mixed resin bath mainly comprising a mixed solution of an FA copolymer, acetone and water. , And then pressurized with a rubber roll to uniformly impregnate the mixed resin solution with the entire cloth, then pre-dry and then main-dry to obtain a water-repellent cloth that does not impair the texture of the silk. The dough is folded by hand pleating or machine pleating, then put in a kiln and put at 95 ° C.
It is characterized in that it is pleated by exposing it to steam at 05 ° C. for about 40 minutes, evacuating the kiln once, and then applying steam again to the silk fabric.

[0032] In the processing method for pleating water-washable pleats of the silk fabric according to the present invention, the mixed resin solution is subjected to a water repellent treatment on a 100% silk fabric while maintaining the texture of the silk. FA copolymer that blocks silk functional groups such as amino groups, carboxyl groups, alcoholic hydroxyl groups, and phenolic hydroxyl groups in protein fibers, and acts so that the arrangement of fluorine-based resins on the surface of the fabric does not collapse. The main component is a mixed solution of 20%, acetone 12%, and water 68%. In addition, in order to prevent spot-like dirt generated due to the partial adhesion of a large amount of water repellent, the solution is flowed. About 1% of the volume of an acetone-based penetrating agent which plays a role of emulsifying and emulsifying the mixed resin liquid tank.

In the processing method of the present invention for providing pleats which can be washed with water to a silk fabric, the dipping of the 100% silk fabric in the mixed resin solution is performed by setting the first dipping time to 3 to 4 seconds. After 2 seconds, the second immersion is performed for 3 to 4 seconds, and the pressurization by the rubber roll after the immersion is performed for a pressurization time of 0.5 sec.
000 KPa, and the preliminary drying is performed for about 1
The main drying is performed for 20 seconds to 30 seconds by applying a hot air of 20 degrees to 150 degrees for 15 seconds to 30 seconds.
It is characterized in that it is performed in seconds.

The pleated silk fabric which can be washed and which does not collapse even when exposed to water is immersed in a fluororesin solution,
The pleats are folded into 100% silk fabric which has been subjected to a water-repellent treatment, put into a kiln, and exposed to steam at 95 ° C to 105 ° C for about 40 minutes.

The pleated silk fabric of the present invention, which does not collapse even when exposed to water and is washable, is made of a 100% silk fabric emulsified by mixing an FA copolymer, acetone and water as a main component. Dipped in a liquid tank, then pressurized with a rubber roll to uniformly impregnate the mixed resin solution into the entire cloth, then pre-dried and then main-dried to give water repellency that does not impair the feel of the silk The dough is folded by hand pleating or machine pleating, then put in a kiln and exposed to steam at 95 ° C to 105 ° C for about 40 minutes. Once the kiln is evacuated, steam is again applied to the silk fabric. It is characterized in that it is pleated.

The pleated silk fabric of the present invention can be washed with water so that the mixed resin solution is water-repellent to a 100% silk fabric while maintaining the texture of the silk.
Amino groups, carboxyl groups in protein fibers of silk fabrics,
FA copolymer 20 which blocks the functional groups of silk such as alcoholic hydroxyl groups and phenolic hydroxyl groups, and acts so that the arrangement of the fluororesins on the surface of the fabric is not disrupted.
%, Acetone 12%, and water 68%. The solution is fluidized in order to prevent spot-like stains generated due to partial adhesion of the water repellent. 1% of the volume of the acetone-based penetrant which plays a role of emulsifying
It is characterized in that it is added to a certain degree.

The water-washable pleated silk fabric of the present invention is obtained by immersing 100% silk fabric in the mixed resin solution by setting the first immersion time to 3 to 4 seconds.
The second immersion is performed for 3 to 4 seconds after ２2 seconds, and the pressurization by the rubber roll after immersion is performed at a pressurization time of 0.5 seconds and a pressurization pressure of 2000 KPa to 3000 KPa. The preliminary drying is performed by irradiating with hot air of about 120 degrees for 20 to 30 seconds.
It is characterized in that hot air treatment at a temperature of 150 to 150 degrees is performed for 15 seconds to 30 seconds.

[0038]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings of a water-repellent process shown in FIG. 1 and a pleating process and a sewing process shown in FIG.

The present invention has a great feature that has never been provided before in that the water repellent process of the present invention and the pleating process of the present invention are combined.

<Example 1> (Regarding the water-repellent processing step) The mixed resin liquid compounding step is mainly performed using "Asahigard AG480" (trade name), water is used as a solvent, and an antistatic agent is added as follows. I do. A mixed resin liquid mainly using a fluorine resin having high water repellency and oil repellency is blended. In this embodiment, a fluororesin that is easy to handle is mainly used. This is because the fluorine resin has the following features. (1) It shows excellent water repellency. (2) Shows oil repellency compared to hydrocarbons and silicones,
Excellent antifouling properties. (3) Since it is effective with a small amount, the fastness to dyeing rubbing hardly decreases, and the texture and the like are not changed. (4) It has durability, and its performance is hardly deteriorated even by washing and dry cleaning. (5) When the fabric is heated after the pleating process or after the product is put on the market, the fluororesin plays a role of putting one cushion between the fabric and the silk, thereby improving heat resistance. Further, an antistatic agent is also used.

As a substance to be subjected to a water-repellent treatment in order to stop the water absorption of silk, fluorine-based resins include paragard of Ohara palladium, Sumifloyl of Sumitomo Chemical, and Texgard of Daikin Industries. Asahi Glass AG480 sold by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd. is mainly used. The solvent used is not petroleum but water. The fibrous base material is treated with water as a dispersion medium. Asahigard AG480 has 20% FA (fluoroacrylate) copolymer, 12% acetone, and 68% water.
It is.

Next, an acetone-based penetrant or an alcohol-based penetrant is added to emulsify. In order to solve the spot-like stain generated due to the partial adhesion of the water repellent, an emulsion (emulsion) is formed by adding an acetone-based penetrant or an alcohol-based penetrant. As a result, the solution is fluidized, and it is prevented that a large amount of the solution adheres, and the effect of the fluororesin as a stabilizer is enhanced. In the present invention, only acetone is used as an additive. The amount to be added is 1% of the solution in the mixed resin liquid tank.
It is.

In order to perform the water-repellent treatment while maintaining the texture of the silk, a substance that blocks functional groups such as amino groups, carboxyl groups, alcoholic hydroxyl groups, and phenolic hydroxyl groups in protein fibers is required. In the present invention, the functional groups of the silk are blocked mainly with a fluororesin which is easy to handle. If fluorine resin is simply adhered, the fluorine-containing group contributing to water repellency will penetrate into the resin film by washing and dry cleaning, leading to a decrease in water repellency. In addition, processing is performed. In the case of a water-repellent cloth made of a fluorine resin, the water repellency lower than the initial performance can be obtained even though the amount of the fluororesin adhered to the work cloth before and after washing does not change. In order to improve the washing resistance, it is necessary to firmly orient the fluorine-containing group on the surface of the fabric and adhere it to the fiber surface. For this reason,
The following control of the time in which the dough is immersed twice in the sap tank, and the control of the pressing force by the rubber roll and the pressing time are performed as follows.

The belt conveyor process from dipping the mixed resin solution to predrying is performed as follows. 1. 1. Place the dough on a belt conveyor. 2. Mixed resin liquid immersion 3. Once withdrawn from the mixed resin solution 4. Dipping the mixed resin solution again Pull up from the mixed resin liquid, as shown in FIG.
Is immersed in a tank filled with the mixed resin liquid 2. Rubber rolls are arranged everywhere, and the fabric is processed by a conveyor by rotating the rolls. At this time, the dough once pulled up from the mixed resin liquid is again immersed in the mixed resin liquid, and the fluororesin is adhered to the dough. Dip twice to make the mixed resin permeate the dough.

The cloth is pressed and pressed with a rubber roll. Finally, the rubber roll 3 is passed between the two rubber rolls 3.
2000 kPa at 4 atmospheres per square centimeter
Then, the mixed resin is infiltrated into all the fibers of the fabric by pressing and pressing. The time for passing through the rubber roll 3 is 3 seconds to 4 seconds for both the first and second times.
The time between them is one to two seconds. The temperature of the resin liquid tank is room temperature. If the time is longer than this, the texture of the dough is impaired, and if the time is shorter than this, the mixed resin does not penetrate to every corner of the dough. Further, if the temperature of the resin liquid tank is higher than this, the texture of the cloth is impaired. At this time, excess water repellent is squeezed out. The reason why the rubber roll 3 is used for compression is that when the material is pressed, the material becomes flat, and the metal roll is pressurized at a point, whereas the rubber roll is pressurized at the surface, so that the efficiency is good.

The predrying step is performed as follows. Thereafter, preliminary drying is performed. With hot air around 120 ° C, 2
Heat and dry for 0 to 30 seconds. This temperature and time are needed to dry the dough. If the temperature is higher than 120 ° C., the luster and texture are impaired, and the silk fabric is discolored. If it is lower than 120 ° C,
Since the time for applying hot air is increased, the surface of the fabric is easily worn. By pre-drying, the dough is dried to make it easier to adjust the width and texture of the dough, and the process proceeds to the next main drying stage.

The drying belt conveyor process is performed as follows. Place pins on both ends of the dough, set the width of the plan, and place it on the belt conveyor. Adjust the width of the dough and set the pins on both ends of the dough to stretch the crimp to adjust the texture of the dough surface to the same texture as before the process so that the texture of the dough before the water repellent treatment , Set the width of the project, and put it in a book drying machine called a tenter on a belt conveyor. In order to stabilize the dimensional specification of the work cloth, hot air treatment at 120 ° C. to 150 ° C. is performed for 15 seconds to 30 seconds. The range of the temperature setting is the same as the reason described above.

The dough is easily cooled at room temperature. After that, it is necessary to rapidly cool the synthetic fibers to stabilize their dimensions, but natural fibers such as 100% silk are unnecessary and simply cooled at room temperature. this is,
In the case of synthetic fibers, it is necessary to rapidly cool and solidify the thermoplastic property, which softens when exposed to heat. This is because they are merely attached.

Pleating Process The heat-treated 100% silk fabric subjected to the water-repellent process of the present invention is subjected to heat treatment to produce pleats. There are two types of heat treatment, hand pleating and machine pleating. In the case of hand pleating, apply the pleated pattern to the top and bottom of the fabric and fold by hand. In some cases, cardboard or other thick paper may be inserted in the middle to fix the cloth so as not to twist. Fold the pleated part, in the case of accordion pleats, make the fan like a closed shape,
Fix it with a string so that it does not move, and put it in the kiln. In the case of machine pleating, folding is performed by a machine sandwiched between papers. At this time, since heat of 190 ° C. to 200 ° C. is applied, in the case of synthetic fibers such as polyester, pleats can be set in this state, but silk 10
In the case of 0% dough, put it in a kiln like hand pleats.

Next, the pleats folded into the setter body are carried in by a transport vehicle. The kiln in the pleating process will be described with reference to FIG. 4 in a front view, FIG. 5 in a side view, and FIG. 6 in a plan view. Fix the fabric with the pleats set so that it does not move with the pleats closed,
It is placed on a carrier 24, covered with a blanket, rolled on a platform 18, placed in a setter body (kiln body) 11, and a can body door 17 is closed. The reason for covering the fabric with a blanket is
This is to prevent the steam from directly hitting the dough, and to uniformly hit the steam on any part of the dough placed in any part of the setter body (kiln body) 11.

The steam filling is performed as follows. First, put steam in the setter body. Next, the entire setter is once evacuated. Further, steam is put again. Then, take out the dough from the setter body. Although there are some errors depending on the size of the kiln, steam at 95 ° C. to 105 ° C. is charged into the kiln, and then vacuum is applied once and steam is input again. By applying a vacuum, steam can be introduced into the kiln everywhere. The time is about 40 minutes. When the kiln is small, the temperature is set to 95 ° C. However, when the temperature is lower than this, the rate of opening of the pleats increases, and the product becomes unsuitable. In the case of a 100% silk fabric, heat at 95 ° C to 105 ° C for about 40 minutes. Compared with the case of synthetic fiber at about 110 ° C. for about 30 minutes, it takes more time to lower the temperature. In any case, processing is performed at a lower temperature and longer time than in the case of synthetic fibers. When performed at a high temperature, such as when handling synthetic fibers or semi-synthetic fibers, the texture of the silk is impaired and the color changes, so that a temperature setting for a fabric of 100% silk is required. This is also evident from the fact that clothing made of chiffon material, which is a thin silk fabric, is very sensitive to heat, so that ironing usually performed at home is not performed directly with ironing, but with steam. It is important that the silk does not absorb moisture, limited only to utilizing the heat from the steam in the kiln, and this steam heat sets the pleats. When the set time comes, an alarm is generated.

This series of steps is performed by the operation panel 12, and the temperature, time and the like are set. In order to evacuate the setter body (kiln body) 11, a water ring vacuum pump 1 was used.
3. Separate tank 14 for vacuum pump is attached. For opening and closing the door, a door tightening device 15 and a door opening and closing device 16 are attached to the setter body (kiln body) 11. In order to process the steam of the setter body (kiln body) 11, a steam separator 20, a drain tank 21, a cooling water storage tank 22, a cooling water feed pump 23, and a can body mouth drain receiver 26 are provided. Further, a pressure gauge mounting panel 19 and an air compressor 26 are mounted.

Finally, sewing is performed, and the finished product is sewn. Conventionally, when sewing a 100% silk fabric, even a sewing expert is a material that is difficult to sew due to thread slippage and thread twisting, which is troublesome. But,
In the case of the silk 100 part fabric after passing through the present example, although the texture of the silk is not impaired by the fluororesin adhering to the surface of the silk fabric, the fabric is slightly stiff, but this is rather Like, has become an advantage. That is. Without slippage, twisting, preventing slippage, until now, when handling silk, it was necessary to handle carefully so as not to catch nails and cause rubbing, This burden is greatly reduced. Also, when sewing, the silk fabric was easy to move, and it took a lot of time to sew the seams according to the pattern, but it became much easier to sew.

In this embodiment, accordion pleats have been described, but the types of pleats are not limited. In the case of soft pleats imitating the shape of a shell, a soft material such as a sponge is used together when folding the fabric. In addition, the shape when put into a kiln differs depending on the type of pleats, and is not limited to a fan shape.

For the product manufactured according to this embodiment,
The applicant has performed various experiments. The results are described below. The product is silk 100 with accordion pleats in the skirt, manufactured according to this example.
It is a patterned dress with a thin fabric of percent.

Experimental Example 1 At a water temperature of 18 ° C., 12 ml of a detergent (Kao Emar) was added to 5 liters of water, and washing was performed in the following procedure. (1) Hand wash 30 times. (2) Put into a net and spin-dry for 20 to 30 seconds with a spin-dryer. (3) Change the water and rinse twice. (4) Put into a net and dehydrate for 20-30 seconds with a dehydrator. As a result, the state after the washing was such that the pleats were slightly spread, and was in a wearable state.

Further, the same procedure was repeated for the second time. After washing, the pleats are pretty loose,
The pleated Oriyama remains. The pleats remained firm, so the pleats were restored when finished and returned to a wearable level.

On the other hand, as a comparative example, water was applied to a pleated product that had not undergone the pleating process according to the present example. This product is simply exposed to water,
The pleated Oriyama was removed, and it became cramped and did not return to its original condition.

(Experimental Example 2) At a water temperature of 18 ° C., immersion was carried out for 5 minutes in a water volume of 10 l. The condition after insertion is not much different from that before insertion, but the pleats are slightly widened, but the Oriyama line is solid.

The second procedure is performed in the same procedure. Although the pleats can be seen partially after spreading, the Oriyama line remains firm, so it was restored as described above.

(Experimental Example 3) Regarding the change in appearance due to dry cleaning, no change was observed in the appearance of both plain and patterned materials even when treated five times by the JISL1096 J-2 method.

[0062]

The present invention has the following effects.

Conventional 100% silk fabric is
Even after the pleating process, the pleats were loosened within an hour after leaving the kiln. Also, when I came out of the kiln and sprayed it quickly, the pleats fell off in a few seconds. When a pleating process was performed on the fabric that had undergone the water-repellent process of the present invention, a product with no pleats was produced. For a 100% silk fabric, a product that does not lose its shape even when wet with water, such as rain, becomes possible, as with synthetic fibers. This has made it possible to design a pleat of 100% silk cloth, which has heretofore been impossible. Pleating using the dough according to the invention makes it possible to obtain pleats that are not exposed to water.

Conventionally, as a product obtained by subjecting a thin fabric to pleating, there is a synthetic fabric of a thin fabric woven to resemble a silk product, and has been commercialized mainly by a woman's skirt, one-piece dress, blouse, and the like. However, the unique texture, texture and pearly beauty of silk could not be expressed. According to the invention of the present application, it has become possible to produce a product that combines the beauty unique to silk with the beauty of a pleated design.

Although the cloth slightly strengthens due to the adhesion of the fluororesin to the surface, it does not affect the quality of the apparel product. Without slipping, and slip prevention,
This has the advantage of making sewing easier. Also, in terms of product price, we were able to significantly reduce costs. The fabric made of 100% silk is soft and the seams move during sewing, so it requires more sewing techniques and more time than other materials compared to other fibers. By applying water processing, sewing was easy and sewing time was shortened.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a water-repellent processing process diagram

FIG. 2 Pleating process diagram and sewing process diagram

FIG. 3 is a process diagram of dipping in a mixed resin liquid in a water-repellent process.

FIG. 4 is a front view of the kiln in a pleating process.

FIG. 5 is a side view of the kiln in a pleating process.

FIG. 6 is a plan view of a kiln in a pleating process.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1. Dough 2. Mixed resin liquid 3. Rubber roll 11. Setter body (kiln body) 12. Operation panel 13. 13. Water ring vacuum pump 14. Separate tank for vacuum pump Door fastening device 16. Door opening / closing device 17. Can body door 18. Platform 19. Pressure gauge mounting panel 20. Steam separator 21. Drain tank 22. Cooling water storage tank 23. Cooling water feed pump 24. Transport vehicle 25. Air compressor 26. Receiving can body mouth drain

Continued on front page F term (reference) 3B154 AA01 AB20 BA14 BA16 BA36 BB02 BB03 BB05 BB12 BB32 BC01 BC16 BC24 BD08 BE02 BE05 BE06 BE07 BF01 BF02 BF04 DA13 DA16 DA18 4L033 AA03 AB05 AC03 CA17

Claims (8)

[Claims] 1. A pleat is folded into a 100% silk fabric which has been dipped in a fluorine-based resin solution and subjected to a water-repellent treatment, and then put into a kiln and steamed at 95 ° C to 105 ° C for about 40%.
A processing method of applying water-washable pleats to silk fabric that does not collapse even when exposed to water for minutes. 2. Fabric made of 100% silk fabric
Dipped in an emulsified mixed resin liquid tank mainly containing a mixed solution of copolymer, acetone and water, and then pressurized with a rubber roll to uniformly impregnate the entire resin cloth with the mixed resin liquid, and then perform preliminary drying. After applying, the fabric is fully dried, and the fabric that has been subjected to water repellency that does not impair the texture of the silk is folded by hand pleating or machine pleating. A processing method for applying pleats that can be washed to silk fabric, characterized in that the kiln is evacuated once and then pleated by steaming the silk fabric again. 3. In order for the mixed resin solution to perform a water-repellent treatment on a 100% silk fabric while maintaining the texture of the silk, an amino group, a carboxyl group, an alcoholic hydroxyl group in a protein fiber of the silk fabric, A mixed solution of 20% FA copolymer, 12% acetone, and 68% water, which blocks the functional groups of silk such as phenolic hydroxyl groups and acts so that the arrangement of the fluorine-based resin on the surface of the fabric does not collapse. In order to prevent spot-like stains that occur due to the partial adhesion of a large amount of water repellent, an acetone-based penetrant that serves to fluidize and emulsify the solution is used. The processing method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein water is added to the mixed resin liquid tank at about 1% of its capacity. 4. A method of immersing a 100% silk fabric in the mixed resin solution, wherein the first immersion time is 3 to 4 seconds, and the second immersion is performed for 3 to 4 seconds after 1 to 2 seconds. The pressurization by the rubber roll after immersion is performed for a pressurization time of 0.5 seconds, a pressurization pressure of 2000 KPa to 3000 KP.
a) in which the preliminary drying is performed by irradiating with hot air of about 120 ° C. for 20 seconds to 30 seconds,
The processing method according to any one of claims 1, 2 or 3, wherein the hot air treatment at 20 to 150 degrees is performed for 15 to 30 seconds. 5. A pleat is folded into a 100% silk cloth immersed in a fluororesin liquid and subjected to a water-repellent treatment, and then put into a kiln and steamed at 95 ° C. to 105 ° C. for about 40%.
A silk fabric with pleated water that can be washed in water and that does not collapse when exposed to water. 6. A fabric made of 100% silk,
Dipped in an emulsified mixed resin liquid tank mainly containing a mixed solution of copolymer, acetone and water, and then pressurized with a rubber roll to uniformly impregnate the entire resin cloth with the mixed resin liquid, and then perform preliminary drying. After applying, the fabric is fully dried, and the fabric that has been subjected to water repellency that does not impair the texture of the silk is folded by hand pleating or machine pleating. A silk fabric with water-washable pleats, characterized in that the kiln is evacuated and then pleated by steaming the silk fabric again. 7. The amino resin, carboxyl group, alcoholic hydroxyl group, or the like in a protein fiber of a silk fabric, in order for the mixed resin solution to perform a water-repellent treatment on a 100% silk fabric while maintaining the texture of the silk. A mixed solution of 20% FA copolymer, 12% acetone, and 68% water, which blocks the functional groups of silk such as phenolic hydroxyl groups and acts so that the arrangement of the fluorine-based resin on the surface of the fabric does not collapse. In order to prevent spot-like stains that occur due to the partial adhesion of a large amount of water repellent, an acetone-based penetrant that serves to fluidize and emulsify the solution is used. The silk fabric according to any one of claims 5 and 6, wherein the silk fabric is provided with water-washable pleats. 8. The method of immersing 100% silk cloth in the mixed resin liquid, wherein the first immersion time is 3 to 4 seconds and the second immersion is performed 3 to 4 seconds after 1 to 2 seconds. The pressurization by the rubber roll after immersion is performed for a pressurization time of 0.5 seconds, a pressurization pressure of 2000 KPa to 3000 KP.
a) in which the preliminary drying is performed by irradiating with hot air of about 120 ° C. for 20 seconds to 30 seconds,
The silk fabric according to any one of claims 5, 6 and 7, wherein the silk fabric is subjected to hot air treatment at 20 to 150 degrees for 15 to 30 seconds.