JP5861231B2 - Pleated processing method of silk fiber product and pleated product of silk fiber product - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a pleating method for forming a pleat on a silk fiber product and fixing the pleat, and a pleated product of a silk fiber product on which the pleat is formed and fixed.

In order to improve functionality and fashionability (design), the knitted fabric is subjected to various processing such as shrink-proofing, shape stabilization (wrinkle-proofing), and pleating (crease, crease-processing). .
Of these processes, pleating is often applied to products such as skirts and blouses, which are popular and in great demand.

In general, pleating is performed by the following method.
In the case of synthetic fiber fabrics such as thermoplastic polyester and wool fabrics with disulfide bonds, bond breakage inside the fibers occurs due to the use of heat treatment and chemicals (reduction treatment), and after deformation, they are rebound by cooling or oxidation treatment As a result of this, durable pleating is possible.

  On the other hand, among natural fiber fabrics, silk fiber fabrics have a superior texture and gloss compared to other fiber fabrics, and thus have a high-class feeling, and silk skirts and blouses are popular. Therefore, conventionally, there is a high demand for pleating a silk fiber fabric.

  Since silk fibers swell when they absorb water, hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic bonds inside the fibers are cut to increase the plasticity of the fibers. Therefore, by performing wet heat treatment on the silk fiber fabric, the fabric can be deformed, and a bond is generated again at a new position, so that pleating can be performed. However, even after processing, the plasticity is increased by absorbing and absorbing moisture again, and the folded pleats easily disappear.

  Most of the chemical fibers apply thermoplasticity as described above, and in the case of wool and cotton, they are processed with special chemicals, but in the case of silk fibers, effective processing techniques have not been developed. First, pleating is performed by using the following resin processing or water repellent processing.

  When using resin processing, the pleat is fixed by solidifying the silk fiber fabric in a state where the pleat is folded with resin. Specifically, the resin liquid is applied before the pleats are folded, and after the pleats are folded, heat treatment is performed. Then, by forming a cross-link inside the fiber and coating the fiber surface, it is possible to suppress a change in the form of the fiber and obtain a pleat holding effect.

For example, as examples of drug processing using a cross-linking drug, there are methods described in Patent Document 1 and Patent Document 2 below.
The method described in Patent Document 1 described below is to heat-treat a natural fiber material and a di-halogeno-S-triazine compound having a hydrophilic substituent at a high temperature together with a crosslinking aid. A durable pleating method. By forming the cross-links inside the fiber and coating the fiber surface, changes in the fiber shape are suppressed.

  Further, in Patent Document 2 below, a method of applying pleating by applying a di-chloro-S-triazine compound, urea, and an acid binder to a natural fiber material and pre-drying, followed by steam heating or dry heat heating. Is disclosed. By using high-concentration urea when applying the drug, it is possible to sufficiently perform preliminary drying without going through a semi-drying step, and the handling of the fabric is facilitated.

  In addition, when using water repellent finish, pleating the water repellent silk fiber fabric prevents water repellent and the processed silk fiber from repelling water, preventing the increase in plasticity due to water absorption. Holding pleats. For example, there is a method described in Patent Document 3 below.

  This method is a method in which pleats are folded into a 100% silk fabric that has been subjected to water-repellent treatment by dipping in a fluorine-based resin liquid, and then placed in a kiln and subjected to steam at 95 to 105 degrees for about 40 minutes. By pleating a silk fiber fabric that has been subjected to a water-repellent treatment with a resin, it becomes difficult to remove the pleats even with water.

JP 2003-49363 A JP 2004-332184 A JP 2002-371460 A

As described above, the method of performing the wet heat treatment on the silk fiber fabric has a problem that when the silk fiber fabric is wetted with water after pleating, the folded pleats disappear.
In addition, when resin processing is used, curing of the silk fiber fabric becomes a problem. In the case of resin processing, the pleats are retained because the fiber shape change due to water or physical action is suppressed by processing. However, since the change in the shape of the fiber of the silk fiber fabric is suppressed, the original texture of the silk fiber product is hindered. One of the characteristics of silk is softness, but there is a problem that the original softness of silk fiber products is lost by resin processing. In addition, the use of the drug leaves the processing process complicated and the safety of the drug used.

  When water repellent processing is used, pleats are more likely to be retained even when wetted to some extent as compared to wet heat treatment. However, there is a problem in durability of the water repellent effect, and if the water repellent effect is lost, there is a problem that pleats disappear as in the case of wet heat treatment. Further, since the two-step processing process of pleating after the water repellent process is performed, the processing process becomes complicated.

  Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and a method for pleating silk fiber products such as silk fiber fabrics having excellent pleat retention properties without impairing the original properties of the silk fiber product, and the pleats thereof To provide processed products.

  Another object of the present invention is to provide a silk fiber product pleating method and a pleated product which can be simply and easily performed without complicated processing steps and are excellent in safety.

Specifically, the present invention can be achieved by adopting the following configuration.
The invention according to claim 1 is a silk fiber product pleating method in which only a swelling agent is applied to a silk fiber product as a fiber processing agent, and then pleats are formed, and then wet heat treatment is performed to fix the pleats. Oh I, as the swelling agent, urea, polyhydric alcohols, at least one that uses a silk textile pleating method of dimethylsulfoxide carbon atoms 2-4.

According to a second aspect of the invention, when using the urea to the swelling agent is a pleating method of the silk textile according to claim 1, wherein for use in the aqueous solution.
The invention according to claim 3 is the silk fiber product pleating method according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein any one of a steam press and a steam heater is used for the wet heat treatment. .

(Function)
As described above, since silk fibers swell when they absorb water, hydrogen bonds, hydrophobic bonds, and the like inside the fibers are cut to increase the plasticity of the fibers. Therefore, by performing wet heat treatment on the silk fiber fabric, the fabric can be deformed, and a bond is generated again at a new position, so that pleating can be performed. However, even after processing, the plasticity is increased by absorbing and absorbing moisture again, and the folded pleats easily disappear.

  In the wet heat treatment, the silk fiber fabric is immersed in water, then dehydrated to form pleats, and the pleats are fixed while applying steam. It cannot stay in the plasticity state. Therefore, it is considered that the deformation inside the silk fiber due to the wet heat treatment is small. If the deformation inside the silk fiber is small as described above, it is not fixed firmly even if pleating is performed, and it seems that the pleat is easily lost due to water absorption after the processing.

  Therefore, the present inventors use a substance (compound etc.) that is harder to evaporate than water and stays inside the silk fiber, and if the plasticity of the silk fiber can be increased, I guessed that pleats would not disappear easily. In the case of silk fibers, the official moisture content is lower than that of wool fibers, but the degree of swelling is significantly increased under high humidity conditions of 80% or higher humidity.

  The present inventors paid attention to this point, and as a result of earnest research, after applying a swelling agent to silk fiber products such as silk fiber fabrics, if pleats are formed and the pleats are fixed by wet heat treatment, the pleats can be retained. Was found to be satisfactory, and the present invention was completed.

  In the fiber dyeing process, a swelling agent is used as an auxiliary agent for the dyeing agent because the swelling agent penetrates into the inside of the fiber to help penetration of the dyeing agent. Silk fibers have a 1: 1 ratio of crystalline and non-crystalline regions, and the drug enters the non-crystalline regions and acts. The region of the amorphous part is distributed from the surface to the inside of the silk fiber, which provides a way for the drug to diffuse into the fiber. Since the swelling agent has an action of entering the fiber space such as the region of the non-crystalline portion and making the fiber swell, the plasticity of the silk fiber can be increased. Since the purpose is to swell silk fibers, no other fiber processing agents are required. Moreover, since the chemical | medical agent used as a swelling agent of silk fiber has a high boiling point compared with water, it can stay in a fiber comparatively long during wet heat processing.

  In addition, the chemical | medical agent for fiber processing is a substance comprised from components other than a fiber component, and does not contain water. As dyes, pigments, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, finishing agents (softening agents, antistatic agents, water repellents, flameproofing agents, dyeing fastness improvers), functions Processing agents (form stabilizing agents, antibacterial agents, fungicides, UV-cutting agents, skin care processing agents).

Further, the swelling agent generally refers to a highly polar drug. Therefore, although there are many types, when a swelling agent is selected from the chemicals for fiber processing, polyhydric alcohols having 2 to 4 carbon atoms such as urea, ethylene glycol and glycerin can be mentioned.
Further, dimethyl sulfoxide is a drug having a strong ability to swell silk fibers.

  Silk fibers have molecular chains bonded to each other, and the swelling agent penetrates into the inside of the fiber, thereby allowing movement of the molecular chains. By using the swelling agent, it is possible to move a wide range of molecular chains as compared with wet heat treatment using only water. Moreover, since the chemical | medical agent used as a swelling agent of a silk fiber has a hygroscopic effect, it can make a silk fiber contain more water than usual at the time of wet heat processing. In this state, the pleats are folded by wet heat treatment, and the swelling agent is washed away by washing with water after fixing the pleats. The molecular chains are recombined by wet heat treatment or water washing, so that the pleats are firmly fixed.

  In addition, washing with water may or may not be necessary. If necessary, the amount of swelling agent remaining in the silk fibers is large. This is because if the residual amount of the swelling agent is large, the pleats that have been bent may disappear due to the high plasticity of the fibers. Therefore, if the residual amount of the swelling agent on the silk fiber is small, washing with water is not particularly necessary.

  The method according to the present invention has a greater effect of increasing the plasticity of the silk fiber than the pleating method in which the silk fiber is subjected to wet heat treatment without imparting a swelling agent, and the pleat does not easily disappear even if water is absorbed after processing. .

The pleated using resin processing or hardening of silk fiber fabric problem, there are such problems, such as pleats persistence in pleated using water-repellent, according to the invention of claim 1 Symbol placement, silk fibers Therefore, it is possible to provide a silk fiber product having excellent pleat retention properties without impairing the original properties of the silk fiber product. In addition, by applying only a swelling agent as a fiber processing agent and performing pleating by wet heat treatment, the processing process becomes very simple and easy, and can be performed simply and easily without going through complicated processing steps. .

And as a swelling agent to be used, an easily available and highly safe thing is preferable.
Therefore, urea, polyhydric alcohols having a carbon number of 2 to 4, the use of dimethyl sulfoxide, because these compounds hardly volatile compared to water, enters the interior of the fibers, and plasticity is increased It is easy to keep being.

  When applying a swelling agent to a fiber, it is necessary to permeate the inside of the fiber. When the swelling agent is a liquid, it can be infiltrated by immersing the silk fabric in the swelling agent. And since urea is a solid among the said compounds, it is difficult to make it penetrate | invade into the inside of a silk fiber, However, If it uses as urea aqueous solution, it can make it penetrate | invade into the inside of a silk fiber. The higher the aqueous solution concentration, the better the pleat retention. Urea is preferable because it is more economical than other compounds, is easy to handle because it is solid, and has high safety.

Therefore, according to the invention of claim 2 Symbol placement, in addition to the effects of the invention described in claim 1, the use of urea as an aqueous solution, it is possible to enter the interior of the silk fiber.
In the wet heat treatment, the pleats are fixed while applying steam. In this process, a fiber processing apparatus capable of performing heat treatment while applying steam to the silk fabric is used. Specifically, the pleats are easily fixed by using a steam press or a steam heater.

Therefore, according to the invention of claim 3 Symbol placement, in addition to the effects of the invention described in claim 1 or claim 2, pleats fixed can be strongly.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention is very effective for pleating a silk fiber product, and has an effect that the retainability of the pleat is excellent without impairing the original characteristics of the silk fiber product.
According to the invention of claim 1 Symbol placement, without the use of drugs for other textile processing, only the swelling agent is applied to the silk fiber product, by the wet heat treatment, the silk fabric in the state in which plastic is increased On the other hand, it can be pleated by wet heat treatment. Therefore, pleating with excellent pleat retention capability can be easily and easily performed without impairing the original properties of the silk fiber product, and the disappearance of the pleat due to water absorption and moisture absorption can be suppressed.

Moreover , the retention of a pleat can be improved by using a swelling agent having a higher swelling effect.

According to the invention of claim 2 Symbol placement, in addition to the effect of the invention described in claim 1, not only enhances the retention of the pleats, is particularly excellent in terms of economy and safety.

According to the invention of claim 3 Symbol placement, in addition to the effect of the invention described in claim 1 or claim 2, that the pleats fixed becomes stronger, also it increases retention of pleats.

It is the table | surface which showed the pleat property (grade) and the bending resistance (N) at the time of using the swelling agent by embodiment of this invention, and the case by another method (comparative example). It is the figure which showed the adhesion rate of each swelling agent at the time of changing the time of wet heat processing. It is the figure which showed the relationship between the density | concentration of urea aqueous solution (swelling agent), and pleat property. It is the figure which showed the pleating property at the time of changing set temperature and set time. It is the figure which showed the whiteness index at the time of changing set temperature and set time.

An embodiment of the present invention will be described.
As a raw fabric for processing, double silk wings of 14 mm (thickness of warp 2.3 tex × 3, weft 2.3 tex × 4, weaving density of 264 ft / 5 cm, width 190/5 cm) The following treatment was performed using The silk fiber product used in the present invention may be a silk fiber material, and may be a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, or a non-woven fabric. And not only products but also semi-finished products and raw materials may be used. Further, tex (tex) is a unit representing the thickness of the yarn, and one having a weight of 1 g per unit length of 1000 m is called 1 tex.

  A raw cloth for processing is prepared by using an aqueous urea solution (40% by mass of solid, solid manufactured by Kanto Chemical Co., Ltd., using a first grade reagent, hereinafter,% indicates mass%), ethylene glycol (Kanto). Each was immersed for 5 minutes in three types of liquids, manufactured by Chemical Co., Ltd., grade 1) and dimethylsulfoxide (produced by Kanto Chemical Co., Ltd., grade 1). The temperature of each solution was 80 degrees.

 A highly polar drug acts as a swelling agent on silk fibers. As the swelling agent, in addition to urea, ethylene glycol, dimethyl sulfoxide, for example, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, tetraethylene glycol dimethyl ether, dimethylformamide, N-methylpyrrolidone, etc. are used. Also good.

  Drugs that can be used for pleating are those that can swell silk fibers and can remain on silk fibers (woven fabrics) for a long time when pleating, and have a molecular weight that allows them to penetrate inside the fibers, not acid or alkali. is there. The performance required as the condition is related to the strength of the polarity, boiling point, decomposition temperature, pH, molecular weight and the like. The boiling point and decomposition temperature should be high so that the swelling agent stays inside the fiber, the pH should be neutral so as not to damage the fiber, and the molecular weight is not so large because it does not easily penetrate into the fiber. good.

  Among these, urea, ethylene glycol, and dimethyl sulfoxide are preferable because they are easily available and have high safety. Moreover, since urea is solid, it is also possible to give two or more kinds of swelling agents to silk fibers by using it mixed with ethylene glycol or dimethyl sulfoxide. Furthermore, you may mix 2 or more types among urea aqueous solution, ethylene glycol, and dimethylsulfoxide.

  And after immersing the raw cloth for processing in the liquid of each swelling agent, it spin-dry | dehydrated at 3000 rpm for 5 minutes with a centrifuge (the domestic centrifuge Co., Ltd. make, small dehydrator model H120A), fold a pleat, and dry heat A press machine (Asahi Textile Machinery Co., Ltd., fully automatic flat press, digital model, model AF-126IIF) was pressed at 130 degrees for 30 seconds, and Hoffman press machine (manufactured by Itumi Manufacturing Co., Ltd., model NAP-). 406SP), wet heat treatment was performed while applying steam at 130 degrees for 30 minutes to fix the pleats (also referred to as a pleat set).

As a method for forming the pleats, there is a method in which the pleats are folded and fixed with a cloth interposed between the patterns.
In addition, as a device used in the wet heat treatment, there are a steam press machine and a steam heater, and a steam box and a steam setter may be used in addition to the Hoffman press machine.

  A steaming box is a machine that can fill a box with steam, and heat-treats the textile while applying steam. A steam setter is a machine that can fill a sealed container with steam, and since it is pressure-resistant, it can be set to a high temperature of 100 ° C. or higher in a vacuum state. A steam press is a machine that presses a textile while applying steam to it, such as a Hoffman press. Since the steam press can keep the pressing pressure constant, it is preferable that the performance (pleatability) of the processed product hardly causes an error.

  Finally, it was washed with a nonionic surfactant (Daiichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd., trade name Neugen) and used for the sample. As a cleaning condition, a 40 degree water bath in which 1 g / L of a surfactant was dissolved was used, and the swelling agent was washed away by shaking for about 30 minutes.

On the other hand, as a comparative example, wet heat processing (processing for forming pleats and performing only wet heat treatment), resin processing, and water repellent processing were performed on the same raw fabric.
In the wet heat processing, the method and conditions were the same as described above except for the step of adding the swelling agent.

  In the resin processing, the raw cloth was dipped in a resin solution (resin 60%, catalyst 18%, water 22%) and squeezed using a mangle so that the squeezing rate became 100%. As the resin, a glyoxal-based processing agent (DIC manufactured by Becamine NS-210L) was used, and as the catalyst, a composite metal salt type (DIC manufactured by Catalyst X-60) was used. Then, it dried at 100 degree | times for 1 minute using the ventilation dryer. The pleats are folded into a dried silk fabric, pressed with the dry heat press machine at 150 ° C for 3 minutes, and finally washed with a 40 ° C water bath in which 1 g / L of the nonionic surfactant is dissolved. Provided.

  In the water repellent processing, the base fabric is immersed in a water repellent aqueous solution (5%) of a fluorine-based water repellent (AG-E081 manufactured by Asahi Glass Co., Ltd.) and squeezed using a mangle so that the squeezing rate becomes 100%. It was. Then, it dried at 110 degree | times and 1 minute and 30 second using the ventilation dryer. Pleats are folded into a dried silk fabric, pressed by the dry heat press machine at about 170 degrees for 1 minute, and wet-heat treated by the Hoffman press machine at 130 degrees for 30 minutes while applying steam. The pleats were fixed. Finally, the nonionic surfactant was washed in a 40 ° C. water bath in which 1 g / L was dissolved, and used as a sample.

In FIG. 1, the result by said processing method is shown. The table shows the pleating property (grade) and the bending resistance (N) by the processing method according to the present embodiment (when each swelling agent is used) and the conventional processing method (comparative example).
The pleatability is an index of pleat retention, and the softness is an index of texture and softness that are inherent characteristics of silk fiber products. When the pleat grade is large, the pleat retention is good, and when the pleat grade is small, the pleat retention is poor. Moreover, it becomes hard when the bending resistance is large, and it becomes soft when the bending resistance is small.

The pleatability test for evaluating the pleat retention was performed by the C method (appearance determination method) of JIS L1060: 2006 7.3. The sample was washed once by the method according to Appendix 1 (Method 106) of JIS L0217: 1995, and the surface change of the fabric after treatment after absorbing water with a filter paper and drying on a screen mesh was measured by AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists). The grade was judged by CREASE APPEARANCE REPLICAS.
The value of pleatability was set as the target value because the general transaction standard of clothing manufacturers is grade 3.

  And the bending resistance test used as evaluation of a texture was done by E method (handle-ometer method) of JIS L1096: 2010 8.19.5. This method is a method of measuring the resistance value when the fabric is bent, and it can be said that the smaller the value, the softer. Since the raw raw fabric was 0.2N, this value was set as the target value.

  As shown in FIG. 1, in the case of resin processing, the pleating property is good, but the bending resistance is large. In water repellent processing and wet heat processing, the bending resistance is small, but the pleating property is not good.

  On the other hand, when a swelling agent such as urea, ethylene glycol (hereinafter abbreviated as EG) or dimethyl sulfoxide (hereinafter abbreviated as DMSO) is added, both the softness and the pleatability are well above the target value. Both softness and pleat retention were good. In particular, when urea is used, the pleat retention is as high as resin processing, which is preferable. Moreover, although not shown in FIG. 1, when urea was used, it was a good result of 3.8 (grade) even after 10 washings.

FIG. 2 shows the adhesion rate of each swelling agent when the wet heat treatment time is changed.
This figure shows the adhesion rate of each swelling agent when the set time by the Hoffman press is 5, 10, 20, 30 minutes. The set temperature was 130 degrees. Moreover, the adhesion rate of the swelling agent was determined from (mass of swelling agent × 100) / (mass of fiber + mass of swelling agent).

  According to FIG. 2, the high adhesion rate was shown in the order of urea, EG and DMSO in the same manner as the pleat retention result of FIG. It is presumed that the higher the swelling agent adherence rate in the pleat set, the longer the silk fiber plasticity was maintained, and the longer the pleats were retained. On the other hand, since the adhesion rate of the swelling agent decreased immediately after setting, it was considered that the swelling agent volatilized during the fixing of the pleats by wet heat treatment and escaped from the fiber. Therefore, it can be said that the cleaning step after the wet heat treatment is not particularly necessary.

And the result of having examined the density | concentration of the urea aqueous solution with the high effect from these results is shown in FIG.
FIG. 3 shows the relationship between the urea aqueous solution concentration (5%, 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%) and pleatability (grade). The method and conditions were the same as in FIG. 1 except that the urea concentration was changed. The pleating property was also measured by the same method and conditions as in FIG.

  According to FIG. 3, it can be seen that the higher the urea aqueous solution concentration, the better the pleat retention. The urea aqueous solution concentration of 40% is the saturation concentration at 0 degree.

FIG. 4 shows the pleatability (grade) when the set temperature and the set time are changed at a urea aqueous solution concentration of 40%, which is highly effective from FIG.
In the pleating property test of FIG. 4, the wet heat treatment by the Hoffman press machine is performed at a set temperature of 130 °, 140 °, 150 ° (3 types), a set time of 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, 40 minutes (5 types). It went on condition of.

According to FIG. 4, it can be seen that the longer the set time, the better the pleat retention. However, when the set time exceeds 30 minutes, it becomes flat and shows a high value when the set temperature is 130 degrees, so the set temperature should be 130 degrees and the set time should be about 30 minutes.
In addition, since silk fibers are easily yellowed by the influence of heat, the influence of wet heat treatment was examined.

FIG. 5 shows the whiteness index when the set temperature and the set time are changed at a urea aqueous solution concentration of 40%. As in the case of FIG. 4, the setting temperature was 130 °, 140 °, 150 ° (3 types), and the setting time was 5 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, 30 minutes, and 40 minutes (5 types). The whiteness index was evaluated according to JIS Z 8722: 2009. The measurement conditions were a spectrophotometer (X-Rite, model Macbeth Ci5), Sa (type of measurement method), D-n (geometric conditions of illumination and light reception), W10 (wavelength used for calculation). W ₁₀ (whiteness index) was measured under the condition of (interval). Three points were measured per sample, and the average value was calculated.

  FIG. 5 shows that the whiteness index decreases as the set temperature is higher and the set time is longer. Therefore, in the wet heat treatment after applying the swelling agent, it is preferable that the set temperature is as low as possible and the set time is short.

  From the above results, pleats can be obtained while maintaining the original texture and softness of silk fiber products, especially when a urea aqueous solution concentration of 40% is used as a swelling agent, the setting temperature in wet heat treatment is 130 degrees, and the setting time is 30 minutes. It is possible to efficiently perform the pleating process that is excellent in the holding property.

  The present invention may also be used for pleating fibers other than silk fibers.

Claims (3)

A silk fiber product pleating method in which only a swelling agent is applied to a silk fiber product as a fiber processing agent, then pleats are formed, and then wet heat treatment is performed to fix the pleats,
A method for pleating a silk fiber product, wherein at least one of urea, a polyhydric alcohol having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and dimethyl sulfoxide is used as the swelling agent.   The method for pleating silk fiber products according to claim 1, wherein urea is used as the swelling agent in the form of an aqueous solution.   The silk fiber product pleating method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein any one of a steam press and a steam heater is used for the wet heat treatment.

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