JP3565299B2 - Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats - Google Patents

Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats Download PDF

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JP3565299B2
JP3565299B2 JP2916196A JP2916196A JP3565299B2 JP 3565299 B2 JP3565299 B2 JP 3565299B2 JP 2916196 A JP2916196 A JP 2916196A JP 2916196 A JP2916196 A JP 2916196A JP 3565299 B2 JP3565299 B2 JP 3565299B2
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Prior art keywords
wrinkles
treatment
fiber
fabric
pleats
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JP2916196A
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Japanese (ja)
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JPH08284061A (en
Inventor
真二 松原
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Toyobo Co Ltd
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Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、耐久性のある繊細なシワやプリーツを有する布帛や縫製繊維製品の製造法に関するものであり、さらに詳しくは、風合に優れ、吸水性等のセルロース系繊維の特性を低下させることが少なく、耐久性で意匠性に富んだシワを有するセルロース系繊維含有繊維製品の製造方法に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
綿、レーヨン、麻などのセルロース系繊維単独あるいはこれらのセルロース系繊維を含有する布帛に、耐久性のあるシワを付与する試みがなされているが、合成繊維の場合のような熱セット性が少ないため、洗濯や着用後のシワ形状の保持性が極めて悪く、問題となっている。
【0003】
また、布帛にセルロース架橋能のあるグリオキザール系の樹脂と触媒を付与後、布帛状態でシワを付与後、縫製し、次いでベーキングしてグリオキザール系樹脂の樹脂化を起こさせてシワ形状を固定化する方法や前記の樹脂と触媒を付与した布帛を縫製後、該縫製品にシワを付与し、次いでベーキングして樹脂化を起こさせてシワ形状を固定化する方法もとられてきた。しかしながら、前記方法によりシワの耐久性は向上するものの、繊細でシャープなシワ形状の再現が難しく、又風合が硬い、吸水性が劣る等の致命的な欠点があった。
【0004】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明は、繊細でシャープなシワやプリーツを有し、かつ風合がソフトで吸水性にも優れた耐久性のあるシワまたはプリーツを有するセルロース系繊維含有布帛及び縫製品を提供しようとするものである。
【0005】
【課題を解決するための手段】
即ち、本発明は、液体アンモニアでセルロース系繊維を前処理後、シワまたはプリーツ付け処理をした後、さらに高圧処理又は減圧処理をすることを特徴とする耐久性のシワまたはプリーツ加工方法である。
【0006】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明で言うセルロース系繊維とは、木綿、麻等の天然繊維、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジック等の再生セルロース系繊維を意味する。
これらセルロース系繊維は単独での使用のみならず、ポリエステル繊維、ポリアミド繊維、ポリアクリロニトリル繊維等の合成繊維と混用することができる。合成繊維の含有率が50重量%以下の時に本発明の特徴が効果的に発揮される。
【0007】
本発明で言う布帛とは、織物、編織物、不織布等を意味する。
本発明で言うセルロース系繊維の膨潤剤とは、セルロース系繊維を膨潤させたり、溶解する能力を有するものであり、硫酸、燐酸、塩化亜鉛、水酸化ナトリウムや水酸化カリウム等の金属水酸化物、ロダン塩等の無機塩、銅エチレンジアミン等のアミン、液体アンモニア等を挙げることができる。これらの中で水酸化ナトリウム、液体アンモニアが簡便で好ましく、特に液体アンモニアは繊維でシャープなシワやプリーツを付けることが容易であり、好ましい。
【0008】
前記膨潤剤によるセルロース系繊維含有布帛の前処理方法は、特に限定されないが、膨潤剤を含有する水溶液中に布帛を適度の膨潤が発生するように浸漬あるいは通過させる方法がとられる。
膨潤させられたセルロース系繊維の断面は、短軸、長軸の比が1に近く、円形に近いものが好ましい。例えば木綿繊維の場合、木綿単繊維の平均の短軸/長軸比が0.6以上、好ましくは0.7以上に膨潤させることが好ましい。
【0009】
本発明におけるシワとは、布帛に起状、凹凸、ふくらみ感等を与える布帛の折れジワ、縮み等を意味し、微細で繊細なものが好ましい。
本発明におけるプリーツとは意匠性を高めることを目的に付与されるプリーツであり、規則性のあるもの、幾何学的な模様など、特に限定されない。
【0010】
本発明におけるシワやプリーツ付け処理方法としては、シワやプリーツを付けることが可能なものであればどんな装置でもよいが、ミリング機、リラクサー、液流染色機、タンブルドライヤーロープ洗浄機、ロープ走行風合加工機や袋つめ法や周期的に連続線状プリーツを施す方法等、特に限定されないが、繊細なシワを付与することができるミリング機によるシワ付け処理が好ましい。処理の条件も目的とするシワの形状にもよるが、通常、常温で30分間程度の処理が行なわれる。プリーツ付け処理方法としては、加熱圧縮プレス法など公知の方法を採用することができる。
【0011】
前記のシワまたはプリーツ付け処理した布帛は、そのままでも使用できるが、さらにシワまたはプリーツの耐久性を向上させるために、種々の処理機械により、種々の処理を施すことができる。
例えばプレス処理、高圧処理、減圧処理、樹脂加工処理、ホルマリンガス等による気相処理、水蒸気処理などが挙げられる。
これらの処理の中で風合を損なわない点で減圧処理、水蒸気処理が好ましく、より耐久性で、かつ風合の変化が少ない点で減圧処理、さらにはホルマリンガスによる気相処理が好ましい。
【0012】
減圧処理は、減圧釜等、減圧状態にできる装置を用い、−500〜−2000mmHg(その系における最大蒸気圧に対して)、10〜130℃、2〜120分程度の条件で処理することが好ましい。
【0013】
本発明におけるセルロースの架橋剤とは、気体、液体、固体、水溶液のいづれでもよいが加熱で容易に蒸気となって、セルロース繊維内部へ浸透できるものであり、パラホルムアルデヒド、ホルマリン水溶液等でホルムアルデヒド蒸気を発生するものが好ましい。
【0014】
ホルムアルデヒド蒸気の場合、潜在性酸性触媒を予め、セルロース繊維含有織編物に均一に付与することにより、二酸化硫黄ガスを使用することなくホルムアルデヒドがセルロース中に存在するOH基と反応し、セルロース分子鎖間の架橋が生成する。
【0015】
本発明で使用できる潜在性酸性触媒には、その代表例を例示すると、NH C1、NH Br、(NH HPO 、NH PO (NH SO 、NH NO などの無機強酸のアンモニウム塩類、ギ類アンモン、酢酸アンモン、シュウ酸アンモンなどの有機酸のアンモニウム塩類、ZnCl 、Zn(NO 、Zn(BF 、MgHPO 、AlCl 、Al(NO 、Al (SO 、CaCl などの金属の強酸塩類、2−アミノ−2−メチル・プロパノール塩酸塩などのアルカノールアミンの塩酸塩類、及びこれらの混合触媒系などが挙げられる。
【0016】
これら触媒系にH SO 、HNO 、HCl、ギ酸、シュウ酸などの強酸を使用してもさしつかえない。
好ましくは、無機強酸のアンモニウム塩類、金属の強酸塩類、アルカノールアミン塩類が挙げられる。
【0017】
本発明において、セルロース系繊維は、ホルムアルデヒド等の蒸気に接触させる前に、前記のセルロースの膨潤剤が少なくとも1度、セルロース繊維内部に、しかもできるだけ均一に浸透させられると、ホルムアルデヒド等の蒸気は容易にセルロース繊維内部にまで、しかも均一に浸透させることができる。
また、より効率的に浸透させるために、−500mmHg以下の減圧系で減圧処理することが有効である。
したがって、セルロース繊維中に、局部的な架橋を形成せしめたり、歪をもたらすような架橋を避けることができ、セルロース繊維の強力低下を防止することができる。
【0018】
本発明において、セルロース系繊維が前記の膨潤剤で繊維の断面の短軸/長軸比が0.6以上に膨潤され、次いで布帛状態で前記のシワ付け処理され、該シワ付け処理された布帛を用いて縫製品とし、該縫製品を前記のセルロース架橋剤で気相で処理することにより、縫製品が持っているシワを変形させたり、消失させることなく、安定に固定することができる。
【0019】
したがって、本発明の方法によって得られた縫製品は、シワ付け処理工程で付与された繊細な意匠性に富んだシワをそのまま保有し、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、かつ繰返し洗濯によってもそのシワを保持する特徴を有するのみならず、特性の変化が少なく生地の強力低下が少ないことも特徴である。
【0020】
なお、本発明で言う縫製品とはミシン糸あるいは接着剤等で縫製されるものであり、シャツ、ブラウス等の衣服やスカーフ、ハンカチ等の人が身に付けるもの、シーツ、カバー等を挙げることができる。
【0021】
【実施例】
以下、本発明を実施例により説明するが、本発明はこれに限定されるものではない。
比較例1
50番単糸使いの木綿ブロード織物(目付112g/m2 )を液体アンモニアによって膨潤処理(木綿単繊維の短軸/長軸比=0.7)した後、この織物に30%の水分をスプレー付与した後、ミリング機で常温で30分間のもみ処理を加え、テンションレスの乾燥を行なった。得られた織物は繊細なシワを有する織物であった(織物(イ))。この織物(イ)でブラウスを縫製した。このブラウスを気相反応機械にセットし、ホルムアルデヒドによる常法の架橋処理を行なった。得られたブラウスは、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、10回の家庭洗濯後も、洗濯前の品位と殆んど差のないシワ形状、風合い、吸水性とを保持していた。
【0022】
実施例
実施例1で得られた織物(イ)を、さらに減圧処理ができる減圧釜に入れ、−700mmHgで80℃、60分間の減圧処理をした(織物(ロ))。この織物(ロ)と前記比較例1の織物(イ)とをJIS L 1042の103法のつり干し乾燥による繰返し洗濯10回後にシワ形状を比較すると、織物(イ)のシワ形状は繊細さの低下がやや認められたが、織物(ロ)は洗濯前と変わらないシワ形状であった。
【0023】
比較例
比較例1と同じ木綿ブロード布を比較例1と同様に液体アンモニアによって膨潤処理した後、この布帛に下記の処方Aのグリオキザール系の樹脂加工剤をピックアップ55%で付与し、120℃で3分間の中間乾燥を行なった。その後該布帛を実施例1と同様にシワ付け処理を加え、テンションレスの乾燥を行ない、得られた布帛によりブラウスを縫製した。このブラウスをポストキュア用のオーブンを用い、150℃で6分間のベーキング処理を行ない、架橋処理したブラウスを得た。得られたブラウスは繊細なシワが少なく粗硬な風合いで吸水性が低かった。
【0024】

Figure 0003565299
【0025】
比較例3
レーヨン繊維58%と麻42%の混紡織物(目付170g/m2 )の液体アンモニア前処理布を、ミリング機を用いて常温で30分間の揉みを加え、ショートループ乾燥を行なった。得られた微細なシワを有する布帛でブラウスを縫製した。比較例1と同様にしてホルムアルデヒドにより架橋処理して目的とするブラウスを得た。得られたブラウスは、繊細なシワを持ち、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、10回の家庭洗濯後も、洗濯前の品位と殆ど差のないシワ形状、風合い、吸水性を保持していた。
【0026】
【発明の効果】
本発明の方法により得られたセルロース系繊維含有の繊維製品は、繊細なシワを有し、ソフトな風合いで吸水性があり、かつ洗濯を繰返しても洗濯前の繊細なシワを保持し、吸水性等の特性の低下も殆どなく、耐久性に優れたシワを有する縫製品を提供することができる。[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric or a sewn fiber product having durable fine wrinkles or pleats. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for reducing the properties of cellulosic fibers, such as excellent texture and water absorption. The present invention relates to a method for producing a cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having less wrinkles, durability and rich design.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Attempts have been made to give durable wrinkles to cellulosic fibers alone such as cotton, rayon, and hemp, or to fabrics containing these cellulosic fibers, but the heat setting property is low as in the case of synthetic fibers. Therefore, the retention of the wrinkle shape after washing or wearing is extremely poor, which is a problem.
[0003]
Also, after applying a glyoxal resin having a cellulose cross-linking ability and a catalyst to the fabric, applying a wrinkle in the fabric state, sewing, and then baking to cause the glyoxal resin to become a resin, thereby fixing the wrinkle shape. There has been proposed a method and a method of sewing a cloth to which the resin and the catalyst have been applied, applying a wrinkle to the sewn product, and then baking the sewn product to cause resinification to fix the wrinkle shape. However, although the durability of wrinkles is improved by the above method, there are fatal drawbacks such as difficulty in reproducing delicate and sharp wrinkles, hard feeling, and poor water absorption.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention is intended to provide a durable wrinkle or pleat-containing fabric and sewn product having delicate and sharp wrinkles and pleats, and having a durable soft feel and excellent water absorption. It is.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
That is, the present invention is, after pretreatment of cellulosic fibers with liquid ammonia, after the wrinkles or pleats with treatment, is durable wrinkle or pleating how characterized by a further high-pressure treatment or vacuum treatment .
[0006]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The cellulosic fibers referred to in the present invention mean natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, and regenerated cellulosic fibers such as viscose rayon and polynosic.
These cellulosic fibers can be used not only alone but also in combination with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyacrylonitrile fibers. When the content of the synthetic fiber is 50% by weight or less, the features of the present invention are effectively exhibited.
[0007]
The fabric referred to in the present invention means a woven fabric, a knitted woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric and the like.
The swelling agent for cellulosic fibers referred to in the present invention is one that has the ability to swell or dissolve cellulosic fibers, and includes metal hydroxides such as sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, zinc chloride, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. And amines such as copper ethylenediamine, liquid ammonia and the like. Among these, sodium hydroxide and liquid ammonia are simple and preferable, and liquid ammonia is particularly preferable because it is easy to impart sharp wrinkles and pleats with fibers.
[0008]
The method of pre-treating the cellulosic fiber-containing fabric with the swelling agent is not particularly limited, and a method of immersing or passing the fabric in an aqueous solution containing the swelling agent so as to generate appropriate swelling is used.
The cross section of the swollen cellulosic fiber preferably has a ratio of the short axis to the long axis of close to 1, and is close to circular. For example, in the case of cotton fiber, it is preferable that the average short axis / major axis ratio of the cotton single fiber is swelled to 0.6 or more, preferably 0.7 or more.
[0009]
The wrinkle in the present invention means a wrinkle, shrinkage, or the like of the fabric that gives the fabric a raised, uneven, swelling, or the like, and is preferably fine and delicate.
The pleats in the present invention are pleats provided for the purpose of enhancing the design, and are not particularly limited, such as those having regularity and geometric patterns.
[0010]
The wrinkle and pleating method in the present invention may be any apparatus as long as it can apply wrinkles and pleating, but a milling machine, a relaxer, a liquid jet dyeing machine, a tumble dryer rope washing machine, a rope running wind Although there is no particular limitation on a processing machine, a bag filling method, a method of periodically applying continuous linear pleats, a wrinkling treatment using a milling machine capable of imparting fine wrinkles is preferable. Although the processing conditions also depend on the desired wrinkle shape, the processing is usually performed at room temperature for about 30 minutes. As the pleating method, a known method such as a heat compression press method can be employed.
[0011]
The fabric subjected to the wrinkle or pleating treatment can be used as it is, but can be subjected to various treatments by various treatment machines in order to further improve the durability of the wrinkle or pleated.
For example, a press treatment, a high pressure treatment, a decompression treatment, a resin processing treatment, a gas phase treatment with formalin gas or the like, a steam treatment and the like can be mentioned.
Among these treatments, decompression treatment and steam treatment are preferable in terms of not deteriorating the feeling, and decompression treatment is more preferable in terms of durability and little change in the feeling, and gas phase treatment with formalin gas is more preferable.
[0012]
The decompression treatment can be performed using a device capable of reducing the pressure, such as a decompression pot, at -500 to -2000 mmHg (relative to the maximum vapor pressure in the system) at 10 to 130 ° C for about 2 to 120 minutes. preferable.
[0013]
The cellulose cross-linking agent in the present invention may be any of gas, liquid, solid, and aqueous solution, but is easily vaporized by heating and can penetrate into the cellulose fiber. Are preferred.
[0014]
In the case of formaldehyde vapor, formaldehyde reacts with OH groups present in cellulose without using sulfur dioxide gas by applying a latent acidic catalyst uniformly to the woven or knitted fabric containing cellulose fibers in advance, and the intermolecularity between the cellulose molecular chains is reduced. Crosslinks are formed.
[0015]
Representative examples of the latent acidic catalyst that can be used in the present invention include NH 4 C 1, NH 4 Br, (NH 4 ) 2 HPO 4 , NH 4 H 2 PO 4 (NH 4 ) 2 SO 4 , NH 4 4 Ammonium salts of inorganic strong acids such as NO 3 , ammonium salts of organic acids such as ammonium formate, ammonium acetate and ammonium oxalate, ZnCl 2 , Zn (NO 3 ) 2 , Zn (BF 4 ) 2 , MgHPO 4 , AlCl 3, Al (NO 3) 3 , Al 2 (SO 4) 3, a metal of a strong acid salts such as CaCl 2, 2-amino-2-hydrochloric acid salts of alkanolamines such as methyl-propanol hydrochloride, and mixtures catalysts And the like.
[0016]
The use of strong acids such as H 2 SO 4 , HNO 3 , HCl, formic acid, oxalic acid or the like in these catalyst systems is also acceptable.
Preferred are ammonium salts of strong inorganic acids, strong acid salts of metals, and alkanolamine salts.
[0017]
In the present invention, if the cellulose swelling agent is allowed to penetrate into the cellulose fiber at least once and as uniformly as possible before contacting the cellulosic fiber with a vapor such as formaldehyde, the vapor such as formaldehyde can be easily formed. Can be evenly penetrated into the cellulose fibers.
Further, in order to make the water permeate more efficiently, it is effective to perform the decompression treatment with a decompression system of -500 mmHg or less.
Therefore, it is possible to prevent local cross-links from being formed in the cellulose fibers or to avoid cross-links that cause distortion, and it is possible to prevent a decrease in the strength of the cellulose fibers.
[0018]
In the present invention, the cellulosic fiber is swollen with the above-mentioned swelling agent so that the short-axis / major-axis ratio of the cross section of the fiber is 0.6 or more, and then the above-mentioned wrinkling treatment is performed in a cloth state, and the wrinkled cloth By processing the sewn product in the gas phase with the above-mentioned cellulose cross-linking agent, the wrinkles of the sewn product can be stably fixed without being deformed or eliminated.
[0019]
Therefore, the sewn product obtained by the method of the present invention retains the wrinkles rich in delicate design imparted in the wrinkle treatment step as it is, has a soft feel, has water absorption, and can be repeatedly washed. In addition to having the characteristic of retaining the wrinkles, it is also characterized by little change in characteristics and little decrease in the strength of the dough.
[0020]
The sewn product referred to in the present invention is a product sewn with a sewing thread, an adhesive, or the like, such as a shirt, a blouse or the like, a scarf, a handkerchief, or the like, a sheet, a cover, and the like. Can be.
[0021]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
Comparative Example 1
After swelling a cotton broad woven fabric using a No. 50 single yarn (having a basis weight of 112 g / m 2 ) with liquid ammonia (short axis / long axis ratio of cotton single fiber = 0.7), this fabric is sprayed with 30% moisture. After the application, a fir treatment was performed at room temperature for 30 minutes using a milling machine, and tensionless drying was performed. The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having fine wrinkles (fabric (a)). A blouse was sewn with this fabric (a). The blouse was set in a gas phase reaction machine, and subjected to a conventional crosslinking treatment with formaldehyde. The resulting blouse had a soft feel and water absorbency, and even after ten home washings, it had a wrinkle shape, texture and water absorbency that were almost the same as those before washing.
[0022]
Example 1
The woven fabric (a) obtained in Example 1 was placed in a vacuum oven capable of further performing a vacuum treatment, and subjected to a vacuum treatment at −700 mmHg at 80 ° C. for 60 minutes (fabric (b)). Comparing the woven fabric (b) and the woven fabric (a) of Comparative Example 1 after 10 times of repeated washing by hanging and drying according to JIS L 1042 103 method, the woven fabric (a) has a fine wrinkle shape. Although the decrease was slightly recognized, the woven fabric (b) had a wrinkle shape that was the same as before washing.
[0023]
Comparative Example 2
After the same cotton broad cloth as in Comparative Example 1 was swelled with liquid ammonia in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 , a glyoxal-based resin processing agent having the following formulation A was applied to the cloth at a pickup of 55% at 120 ° C. for 3 minutes. Was subjected to intermediate drying. Thereafter, the cloth was subjected to a wrinkling treatment in the same manner as in Example 1, dried without tension, and a blouse was sewn with the obtained cloth. The blouse was baked at 150 ° C. for 6 minutes using a post-cure oven to obtain a cross-linked blouse. The resulting blouse had few fine wrinkles, had a rough and hard texture, and had low water absorption.
[0024]
Figure 0003565299
[0025]
Comparative Example 3
A liquid ammonia pretreated cloth of a blended woven fabric (having a basis weight of 170 g / m 2 ) of 58% rayon fiber and 42% hemp was rubbed at room temperature for 30 minutes using a milling machine, followed by short loop drying. A blouse was sewn with the obtained fabric having fine wrinkles. Crosslinking treatment with formaldehyde was performed in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 to obtain a target blouse. The resulting blouse has delicate wrinkles, has a soft texture and absorbs water, and retains the wrinkle shape, texture, and water absorption that are almost the same as the quality before washing even after 10 home washings. Was.
[0026]
【The invention's effect】
The cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product obtained by the method of the present invention has delicate wrinkles, has a soft texture, has water absorbency, and retains delicate wrinkles before washing even after repeated washing, and absorbs water. Thus, it is possible to provide a sewn product having wrinkles with excellent durability and little deterioration in properties such as properties.

Claims (1)

液体アンモニアでセルロース系繊維含有布帛を前処理後、シワまたはプリーツ付け処理をした後、さらに高圧処理又は減圧処理をすることを特徴とする耐久性のシワまたはプリーツを有するセルロース系繊維含有繊維製品の製造方法。After pre-treating the cellulosic fiber-containing fabric with liquid ammonia , performing a wrinkle or pleating treatment, and then performing a high-pressure treatment or a reduced-pressure treatment, the cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having a durable wrinkle or pleating. Production method.
JP2916196A 1995-02-16 1996-02-16 Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats Expired - Lifetime JP3565299B2 (en)

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