JP4135096B2 - Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats - Google Patents
Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats Download PDFInfo
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Description
本発明は、耐久性のある繊細なシワやプリーツを有する布帛や縫製繊維製品の製造法に関するものであり、さらに詳しくは、風合に優れ、吸水性等のセルロース系繊維の特性を低下させることが少なく、耐久性で意匠性に富んだシワを有するセルロース系繊維含有繊維製品の製造方法に関するものである。 The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric having a delicate delicate wrinkles or pleats or a sewing fiber product, and more specifically, it has an excellent texture and reduces the properties of cellulosic fibers such as water absorption. The present invention relates to a method for producing a cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having few wrinkles that are durable and rich in design.
綿、レーヨン、麻などのセルロース系繊維単独あるいはこれらのセルロース系繊維を含有する布帛に、耐久性のあるシワを付与する試みがなされているが、合成繊維の場合のような熱セット性が少ないため、洗濯や着用後のシワ形状の保持性が極めて悪く、問題となっている。 Attempts have been made to impart durable wrinkles to cellulosic fibers such as cotton, rayon and hemp alone or to fabrics containing these cellulosic fibers, but there are few heat setting properties as in the case of synthetic fibers. For this reason, the wrinkle shape retainability after washing and wearing is extremely poor, which is a problem.
また、布帛にセルロース架橋能のあるグリオキザール系の樹脂と触媒を付与後、布帛状態でシワを付与後、縫製し、次いでベーキングしてグリオキザール系樹脂の樹脂化を起こさせてシワ形状を固定化する方法や前記の樹脂と触媒を付与した布帛を縫製後、該縫製品にシワを付与し、次いでベーキングして樹脂化を起こさせてシワ形状を固定化する方法もとられてきた。しかしながら、前記方法によりシワの耐久性は向上するものの、繊細でシャープなシワ形状の再現が難しく、又風合が硬い、吸水性が劣る等の致命的な欠点があった。 Also, after applying a glyoxal resin and a catalyst capable of cross-linking cellulose to the fabric, applying wrinkles in the fabric state, sewing, and baking to cause resination of the glyoxal resin to fix the wrinkle shape There has been a method or a method in which a wrinkle shape is applied to the sewn product after sewing the fabric to which the resin and the catalyst have been applied, and then baked to cause resination to fix the wrinkle shape. However, although the durability of the wrinkles is improved by the above-mentioned method, there are fatal defects such as difficulty in reproducing a delicate and sharp wrinkle shape, a hard texture, and poor water absorption.
本発明は、繊細でシャープなシワやプリーツを有し、かつ風合がソフトで吸水性にも優れた耐久性のあるシワまたはプリーツを有するセルロース系繊維含有布帛及び縫製品を提供しようとするものである。 The present invention seeks to provide a cellulosic fiber-containing fabric and a sewing product having durable wrinkles or pleats which have delicate and sharp wrinkles and pleats and which have a soft texture and excellent water absorption. It is.
即ち、本発明は、液体アンモニアで前処理し、繊維の断面の短軸／長軸比が０．６以上に膨潤されたセルロース系繊維を含有する布帛をシワまたはプリーツ付け処理した後、該布帛を縫製し、次いで該縫製品中のセルロース系繊維をセルロースの架橋剤の蒸気または小滴を含む気相で架橋処理することを特徴とする耐久性のシワを有するセルロース系繊維含有縫製品の製造方法である。 That is, the present invention is, after pretreatment with liquids ammonia and minor axis / major axis ratio fabric wrinkles or pleated containing swollen cellulosic fibers to 0.6 or more processing section of the fiber, the A cellulosic fiber-containing sewn product having durable wrinkles, characterized in that the fabric is sewn, and the cellulosic fiber in the sewn product is then cross-linked in a gas phase containing vapor or droplets of cellulose cross-linking agent. It is a manufacturing method.
本発明の方法により得られたセルロース系繊維含有の繊維製品は、繊細なシワを有し、ソフトな風合いで吸水性があり、かつ洗濯を繰返しても洗濯前の繊細なシワを保持し、吸水性等の特性の低下も殆どなく、耐久性に優れたシワを有する縫製品を提供することができる。 The fiber product containing cellulosic fibers obtained by the method of the present invention has delicate wrinkles, has a soft texture and water absorbency, and retains fine wrinkles before washing even after repeated washing. It is possible to provide a sewn product having wrinkles excellent in durability with little deterioration in properties such as properties.
本発明で言うセルロース系繊維とは、木綿、麻等の天然繊維、ビスコースレーヨン、ポリノジック等の再生セルロース系繊維を意味する。これらセルロース系繊維は単独での使用のみならず、ポリエステル繊維、ポリアミド繊維、ポリアクリロニトリル繊維等の合成繊維と混用することができる。合成繊維の含有率が５０重量％以下の時に本発明の特徴が効果的に発揮される。 The cellulosic fibers referred to in the present invention mean natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, and regenerated cellulosic fibers such as viscose rayon and polynosic. These cellulosic fibers can be used not only alone, but also mixed with synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers and the like. The characteristics of the present invention are effectively exhibited when the content of the synthetic fiber is 50% by weight or less.
本発明で言う布帛とは、織物、編織物、不織布等を意味する。本発明で言うセルロース系繊維の膨潤剤とは、セルロース系繊維を膨潤させたり、溶解する能力を有するものであり、硫酸、燐酸、塩化亜鉛、水酸化ナトリウムや水酸化カリウム等の金属水酸化物、ロダン塩等の無機塩、銅エチレンジアミン等のアミン、液体アンモニア等を挙げることができる。これらの中で水酸化ナトリウム、液体アンモニアが簡便で好ましく、特に液体アンモニアは繊維でシャープなシワやプリーツを付けることが容易であり、好ましい。 The fabric referred to in the present invention means a woven fabric, a knitted fabric, a non-woven fabric or the like. The cellulosic fiber swelling agent referred to in the present invention has the ability to swell or dissolve cellulosic fibers, and is a metal hydroxide such as sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid, zinc chloride, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. And inorganic salts such as rhodan salts, amines such as copper ethylenediamine, and liquid ammonia. Among these, sodium hydroxide and liquid ammonia are preferable because they are simple, and liquid ammonia is particularly preferable because it is easy to attach sharp wrinkles and pleats with fibers.
前記膨潤剤によるセルロース系繊維含有布帛の前処理方法は、特に限定されないが、膨潤剤を含有する水溶液中に布帛を適度の膨潤が発生するように浸漬あるいは通過させる方法がとられる。膨潤させられたセルロース系繊維の断面は、短軸、長軸の比が１に近く、円形に近いものが好ましい。例えば木綿繊維の場合、木綿単繊維の平均の短軸／長軸比が０．６以上、好ましくは０．７以上に膨潤させることが好ましい。 The pretreatment method of the cellulose-based fiber-containing fabric with the swelling agent is not particularly limited, and a method of immersing or passing the fabric in an aqueous solution containing the swelling agent so as to generate appropriate swelling is employed. The cross section of the swollen cellulosic fiber is preferably close to a circle having a minor axis / major axis ratio close to 1. For example, in the case of cotton fibers, the average short axis / major axis ratio of the single cotton fibers is preferably 0.6 or more, preferably 0.7 or more.
本発明におけるシワとは、布帛に起状、凹凸、ふくらみ感等を与える布帛の折れジワ、縮み等を意味し、微細で繊細なものが好ましい。本発明におけるプリーツとは意匠性を高めることを目的に付与されるプリーツであり、規則性のあるもの、幾何学的な模様など、特に限定されない。 The wrinkles in the present invention mean fabric wrinkles, shrinkage, and the like that give the fabric a raised shape, unevenness, swell, and the like, and are preferably fine and delicate. The pleats in the present invention are pleats provided for the purpose of enhancing design properties, and are not particularly limited, such as regular ones or geometric patterns.
本発明におけるシワやプリーツ付け処理方法としては、シワやプリーツを付けることが可能なものであればどんな装置でもよいが、ミリング機、リラクサー、液流染色機、タンブルドライヤーロープ洗浄機、ロープ走行風合加工機や袋つめ法や周期的に連続線状プリーツを施す方法等、特に限定されないが、繊細なシワを付与することができるミリング機によるシワ付け処理が好ましい。処理の条件も目的とするシワの形状にもよるが、通常、常温で３０分間程度の処理が行なわれる。プリーツ付け処理方法としては、加熱圧縮プレス法など公知の方法を採用することができる。 The wrinkle or pleating method according to the present invention may be any device as long as it can be wrinkled or pleated, but a milling machine, a relaxer, a liquid dyeing machine, a tumble dryer rope washer, a rope running wind Although it does not specifically limit, such as a compounding machine, the bag nail | claw method, and the method of giving a continuous linear pleat periodically, The wrinkling process by the milling machine which can provide a fine wrinkle is preferable. Although the treatment conditions also depend on the target wrinkle shape, the treatment is usually performed at room temperature for about 30 minutes. As the pleating method, a known method such as a heat compression press method can be employed.
前記のシワまたはプリーツ付け処理した布帛は、そのままでも使用できるが、さらにシワまたはプリーツの耐久性を向上させるために、種々の処理機械により、種々の処理を施すことができる。例えばプレス処理、高圧処理、減圧処理、樹脂加工処理、ホルマリンガス等による気相処理、水蒸気処理などが挙げられる。これらの処理の中で風合を損なわない点で減圧処理、水蒸気処理が好ましく、より耐久性で、かつ風合の変化が少ない点で減圧処理、さらにはホルマリンガスによる気相処理が好ましい。 The wrinkled or pleated fabric can be used as it is, but can be subjected to various treatments by various processing machines in order to further improve the durability of the wrinkle or pleat. For example, press treatment, high pressure treatment, reduced pressure treatment, resin processing treatment, gas phase treatment with formalin gas, steam treatment, and the like can be given. Among these treatments, a reduced pressure treatment and a steam treatment are preferred in that the feeling is not impaired, and a reduced pressure treatment and further a vapor phase treatment with formalin gas are preferred in terms of durability and little change in the feel.
減圧処理は、減圧釜等、減圧状態にできる装置を用い、−５００〜−２０００ｍｍＨｇ（その系における最大蒸気圧に対して）、１０〜１３０℃、２〜１２０分程度の条件で処理することが好ましい。 The depressurization treatment can be performed under the conditions of -500 to -2000 mmHg (relative to the maximum vapor pressure in the system), 10 to 130 ° C., and about 2 to 120 minutes using a device that can be in a depressurized state such as a decompression kettle. preferable.
本発明におけるセルロースの架橋剤とは、気体、液体、固体、水溶液のいずれでもよいが加熱で容易に蒸気となって、セルロース繊維内部へ浸透できるものであり、パラホルムアルデヒド、ホルマリン水溶液等でホルムアルデヒド蒸気を発生するものが好ましい。 The cellulose crosslinking agents in the present invention, a gas, liquid, solid, and it had or may be Re not the solution becomes readily steam heating, which can penetrate into the cellulose fibers inside, paraformaldehyde, formalin solution or the like Those that generate formaldehyde vapor are preferred.
ホルムアルデヒド蒸気の場合、潜在性酸性触媒を予め、セルロース繊維含有織編物に均一に付与することにより、二酸化硫黄ガスを使用することなくホルムアルデヒドがセルロース中に存在するＯＨ基と反応し、セルロース分子鎖間の架橋が生成する。 In the case of formaldehyde vapor, by applying a latent acidic catalyst uniformly to the cellulose fiber-containing woven or knitted fabric in advance, formaldehyde reacts with OH groups present in the cellulose without using sulfur dioxide gas, and the intermolecular chain between cellulose molecules. To form a crosslink.
本発明で使用できる潜在性酸性触媒には、その代表例を例示すると、ＮＨ4 Ｃ１、ＮＨ4 Ｂｒ、（ＮＨ4 ）2 ＨＰＯ4 、ＮＨ4 Ｈ2 ＰＯ4 （ＮＨ4 ）2 ＳＯ4、ＮＨ4 ＮＯ3 などの無機強酸のアンモニウム塩類、ギ類アンモン、酢酸アンモン、シュウ酸アンモンなどの有機酸のアンモニウム塩類、ＺｎＣｌ2 、Ｚｎ（ＮＯ3 )2 、Ｚｎ（ＢＦ4 ）2 、ＭｇＨＰＯ4 、ＡｌＣｌ3 、Ａｌ（ＮＯ3 ）3 、Ａｌ2 （ＳＯ4 ）3 、ＣａＣｌ2 などの金属の強酸塩類、２−アミノ−２−メチル・プロパノール塩酸塩などのアルカノールアミンの塩酸塩類、及びこれらの混合触媒系などが挙げられる。 Typical examples of the latent acidic catalyst that can be used in the present invention are NH 4 Cl, NH 4 Br, (NH 4 ) 2 HPO 4 , NH 4 H 2 PO 4 (NH 4 ) 2 SO 4 , NH. 4 Ammonium salts of strong inorganic acids such as NO 3 , ammonium salts of organic acids such as gummonium, ammonium acetate, and ammonium oxalate, ZnCl 2 , Zn (NO 3 ) 2 , Zn (BF 4 ) 2 , MgHPO 4 , AlCl 3 , Al (NO 3 ) 3 , Al 2 (SO 4 ) 3 , strong acid salts of metals such as CaCl 2 , alkanolamine hydrochlorides such as 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol hydrochloride, and mixed catalysts thereof The system etc. are mentioned.
これら触媒系にＨ2 ＳＯ4 、ＨＮＯ3 、ＨＣｌ、ギ酸、シュウ酸などの強酸を使用してもさしつかえない。好ましくは、無機強酸のアンモニウム塩類、金属の強酸塩類、アルカノールアミン塩類が挙げられる。 Strong acids such as H 2 SO 4 , HNO 3 , HCl, formic acid and oxalic acid may be used for these catalyst systems. Preferred examples include ammonium salts of strong inorganic acids, strong acid salts of metals, and alkanolamine salts.
本発明において、セルロース系繊維は、ホルムアルデヒド等の蒸気に接触させる前に、前記のセルロースの膨潤剤が少なくとも１度、セルロース繊維内部に、しかもできるだけ均一に浸透させられると、ホルムアルデヒド等の蒸気は容易にセルロース繊維内部にまで、しかも均一に浸透させることができる。また、より効率的に浸透させるために、−５００ｍｍＨｇ以下の減圧系で減圧処理することが有効である。したがって、セルロース繊維中に、局部的な架橋を形成せしめたり、歪をもたらすような架橋を避けることができ、セルロース繊維の強力低下を防止することができる。 In the present invention, before the cellulose fiber is brought into contact with the vapor of formaldehyde or the like, if the cellulose swelling agent is permeated into the cellulose fiber at least once as uniformly as possible, the vapor of formaldehyde or the like is easily formed. It is possible to uniformly penetrate into the cellulose fiber. Moreover, in order to infiltrate more efficiently, it is effective to perform a pressure reduction treatment in a pressure reduction system of −500 mmHg or less. Therefore, local crosslinking can be formed in the cellulose fiber, or crosslinking that causes distortion can be avoided, and the strength of the cellulose fiber can be prevented from being lowered.
本発明において、セルロース系繊維が前記の膨潤剤で繊維の断面の短軸／長軸比が０．６以上に膨潤され、次いで布帛状態で前記のシワ付け処理され、該シワ付け処理された布帛を用いて縫製品とし、該縫製品を前記のセルロース架橋剤で気相で処理することにより、縫製品が持っているシワを変形させたり、消失させることなく、安定に固定することができる。 In the present invention, cellulosic fibers are swollen with the above-mentioned swelling agent so that the minor axis / major axis ratio of the cross section of the fibers is 0.6 or more, and then the above-mentioned wrinkle treatment is performed in a fabric state. By using the knitted fabric as a sewn product and treating the sewn product in the gas phase with the cellulose cross-linking agent, the wrinkles of the sewn product can be stably fixed without being deformed or lost.
したがって、本発明の方法によって得られた縫製品は、シワ付け処理工程で付与された繊細な意匠性に富んだシワをそのまま保有し、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、かつ繰返し洗濯によってもそのシワを保持する特徴を有するのみならず、特性の変化が少なく生地の強力低下が少ないことも特徴である。 Therefore, the sewn product obtained by the method of the present invention retains wrinkles rich in delicate design imparted in the wrinkling treatment process as it is, has a soft texture and absorbs water, and can be washed repeatedly. In addition to having the characteristic of retaining the wrinkles, it is also characterized by little change in properties and less reduction in fabric strength.
なお、本発明で言う縫製品とはミシン糸あるいは接着剤等で縫製されるものであり、シャツ、ブラウス等の衣服やスカーフ、ハンカチ等の人が身に付けるもの、シーツ、カバー等を挙げることができる。 The sewing products referred to in the present invention are those sewn with sewing threads or adhesives, and include clothes such as shirts, blouses, scarves, handkerchiefs, sheets, covers, etc. Can do.
以下、本発明を実施例により説明するが、本発明はこれに限定されるものではない。
実施例１
５０番単糸使いの木綿ブロード織物（目付１１２ｇ／ｍ2 ）を液体アンモニアによって膨潤処理（木綿単繊維の短軸／長軸比＝０．７）した後、この織物に３０％の水分をスプレー付与した後、ミリング機で常温で３０分間のもみ処理を加え、テンションレスの乾燥を行なった。得られた織物は繊細なシワを有する織物であった（織物（イ））。この織物（イ）でブラウスを縫製した。このブラウスを気相反応機械にセットし、ホルムアルデヒドによる常法の架橋処理を行なった。得られたブラウスは、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、１０回の家庭洗濯後も、洗濯前の品位と殆んど差のないシワ形状、風合い、吸水性とを保持していた。
EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example demonstrates this invention, this invention is not limited to this.
Example 1
A cotton broad woven fabric with a size of 50 single yarn (weighing 112 g / m 2 ) was swollen with liquid ammonia (cotton single fiber short axis / major axis ratio = 0.7), and then sprayed with 30% water on the woven fabric. After the application, the kneading process was carried out at room temperature for 30 minutes with a milling machine to perform tensionless drying. The obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having fine wrinkles (woven fabric (I)). A blouse was sewn with this fabric (I). This blouse was set in a gas phase reaction machine and subjected to usual crosslinking treatment with formaldehyde. The resulting blouse had a soft texture and water absorbency, and retained the wrinkle shape, texture and water absorbency almost unchanged from the quality before washing after 10 home washings.
参考例１
実施例１で得られた織物（イ）を、さらに減圧処理ができる減圧釜に入れ、−７００ｍｍＨｇで８０℃、６０分間の減圧処理をした（織物（ロ））。この織物（ロ）と前記実施例１の織物（イ）とをＪＩＳ Ｌ １０４２の１０３法のつり干し乾燥による繰返し洗濯１０回後にシワ形状を比較すると、織物（イ）のシワ形状は繊細さの低下がやや認められたが、織物（ロ）は洗濯前と変わらないシワ形状であった。
Reference example 1
The fabric (I) obtained in Example 1 was placed in a vacuum kettle capable of further decompression treatment, and subjected to decompression treatment at −700 mmHg at 80 ° C. for 60 minutes (woven fabric (b)). When this fabric (B) and the fabric (I) of Example 1 were compared with wrinkle shapes after 10 repeated washings by JIS L 1042 method 103 suspension drying, the wrinkle shape of the fabric (I) was Although a slight decrease was observed, the fabric (b) had a wrinkle shape that was the same as before washing.
比較例１
実施例１と同じ木綿ブロード布を実施例１と同様に液体アンモニアによって膨潤処理した後、この布帛に下記の処方Ａのグリオキザール系の樹脂加工剤をピックアップ５５％で付与し、１２０℃で３分間の中間乾燥を行なった。その後該布帛を実施例１と同様にシワ付け処理を加え、テンションレスの乾燥を行ない、得られた布帛によりブラウスを縫製した。このブラウスをポストキュア用のオーブンを用い、１５０℃で６分間のベーキング処理を行ない、架橋処理したブラウスを得た。得られたブラウスは繊細なシワが少なく粗硬な風合いで吸水性が低かった。
Comparative Example 1
After the same cotton broad cloth as in Example 1 was swollen with liquid ammonia in the same manner as in Example 1, a glyoxal-based resin processing agent of the following formulation A was applied to the cloth with 55% pickup, and at 120 ° C. for 3 minutes. Was subjected to intermediate drying. Thereafter, the fabric was subjected to a wrinkle treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to perform tensionless drying, and a blouse was sewn with the obtained fabric. This blouse was baked at 150 ° C. for 6 minutes using a post-cure oven to obtain a crosslinked blouse. The resulting blouse had few fine wrinkles and a rough and hard texture and low water absorption.
（処方Ａ） ベッカミンＢ４２５（大日本インキ化学工業社製） ５部
キャタリストＧ（大日本インキ化学工業社製） ０．６部
ファインテックスＰＥＮ（大日本インキ化学工業社製） ２部
シリコンソフナ−ＥＰ１０１０（日華化学工業社製） ２部
水 ９０．４部
(Prescription A) Becamine B425 (manufactured by Dainippon Ink & Chemicals, Inc.) 5 parts
Catalyst G (Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.6 parts
Finetex PEN (Dainippon Ink Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2 parts
Silicon Softener-EP1010 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2 parts
90.4 parts of water
実施例２
レーヨン繊維５８％と麻４２％の混紡織物（目付１７０ｇ／ｍ2 ）の液体アンモニア前処理布を、ミリング機を用いて常温で３０分間の揉みを加え、ショートループ乾燥を行なった。得られた微細なシワを有する布帛でブラウスを縫製した。実施例１と同様にしてホルムアルデヒドにより架橋処理して目的とするブラウスを得た。得られたブラウスは、繊細なシワを持ち、ソフトな風合で吸水性があり、１０回の家庭洗濯後も、洗濯前の品位と殆ど差のないシワ形状、風合い、吸水性を保持していた。
Example 2
A liquid ammonia pretreated cloth of 58% rayon fiber and 42% hemp (weighing 170 g / m 2 ) was subjected to short loop drying by adding a sag for 30 minutes at room temperature using a milling machine. A blouse was sewn with the obtained fabric having fine wrinkles. In the same manner as in Example 1, the target blouse was obtained by crosslinking with formaldehyde. The resulting blouse has delicate wrinkles, has a soft texture and absorbs water, and retains the wrinkle shape, texture, and absorbency that is almost the same as the quality before washing after 10 home washings. It was.
本発明の方法により得られたセルロース系繊維含有の繊維製品は、繊細なシワを有し、ソフトな風合いで吸水性があり、かつ洗濯を繰返しても洗濯前の繊細なシワを保持し、吸水性等の特性の低下も殆どなく、耐久性に優れたシワを有する縫製品を提供することができる。 The fiber product containing cellulosic fibers obtained by the method of the present invention has delicate wrinkles, has a soft texture and water absorbency, and retains fine wrinkles before washing even after repeated washing. It is possible to provide a sewn product having wrinkles excellent in durability with little deterioration in properties such as properties.
Claims (1)
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| JP2004016842A JP4135096B2 (en) | 1995-02-16 | 2004-01-26 | Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| JP2824195 | 1995-02-16 | ||
| JP2004016842A JP4135096B2 (en) | 1995-02-16 | 2004-01-26 | Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats |
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| JP2916196A Division JP3565299B2 (en) | 1995-02-16 | 1996-02-16 | Method for producing cellulosic fiber-containing fiber product having durable wrinkles or pleats |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| JP2004183200A JP2004183200A (en) | 2004-07-02 |
| JP4135096B2 true JP4135096B2 (en) | 2008-08-20 |
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