KR960004913B1 - Washable silk cloth and the process for the preparation thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

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Description

Washing silk fabrics and manufacturing method thereof

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to water-treated silk fabrics, particularly silk fabrics, which are highly durable against machine-washing, and methods of making the same.

Silk has been favored for its unique texture, gloss and drape.

However, silk wears easily and is difficult to clean.

To solve this drawback, several methods are known in which epoxides are used, which durably modify silk.

For example, a synthetic epoxy compound is padded with a catalyst selected from amines, acids and acid salts, dried and then cured (JP-A 10654/1958).

In another method, the epoxide is padded in the presence of an alkali metal hydroxide or a basic salt of an alkali metal as a catalyst, dried and then steamed (JP-A-25198 / 1963).

In another method, epoxide is applied to silk to be treated with a crosslinking agent reactive to cellulose (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 231079/1987).

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 26784/1989 and 6175/1989 or the corresponding US patent application Ser. No. 07 / 186,846 describes that silk fibers are crosslinked with an epoxy compound in the presence of a specific catalyst.

Processed silk not only improves wear resistance and light resistance, but also lowers solubility in alkali.

However, the texture of the processed silk is rather stiff and the laundry shrinkage is not particularly improved.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 65172/1985 discloses a method for producing a water washing crepe using a cover yarn composed of silk yarn and synthetic fibers.

This silk product is more durable and easier to clean.

However, in the above-described method using epoxides, the unique feel of silk is impaired.

This damage can be somewhat mitigated by using a silicon processing agent together, but its durability is low enough to make machine laundering difficult.

In addition, the dimensional stability of the fabric during washing cannot be obtained only by epoxide processing.

Even in the method described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 65172/1985, sufficient dimensional stability cannot be obtained and cannot be used to require repeated washing.

When the ratio of synthetic fibers is increased enough to solve this problem, the silk's unique texture does not appear.

Conventionally, its properties could not be combined to the extent that abrasion resistance, unchanging feel during washing, and dimensional stability during washing could sufficiently withstand machine washing.

Therefore, attempting to improve these properties with conventional techniques compromises the original feel of the silk.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 15982/1988 describes a method in which silk fabrics are treated with polydimethyl siloxane for shrinkage resistance.

Preferably, the silk fabric is processed under tension sufficient to improve molecular orientation in the amorphous region of the silk to further improve shrink resistance.

In addition, various reactive crosslinking agents are used to process silk to improve the anti-wrinkle properties (see "Processing Techniques and Applications of Dog Fibers", Tokyo Textile Institute, 1987, pp. 218-221).

Ethylene urea resins and silicone resins are preferred for better wrinkle recovery.

Melamine resins, ethylene urea resins and silicone resins have less tensile strength, elongation and fracture strength.

Preference is given to mixtures of melamine resins and ethylene urea resins or mixtures of ethylene urea and silicone resins.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a silk fabric, ie, a water-washed silk fabric and a method of manufacturing the same, which has less wear and less touch in the washing process and excellent dimensional stability during washing, while maintaining the unique feel of silk.

This object has been found to be achieved with water-laid silk fabrics processed into resins, which are processed into (a) epoxy compounds, (b) silicone resins, (c) amino-plasma resins and / or glyoxal resins. When soaked in 5wt.% Sodium hydroxide aqueous solution at 65 ° C. for 60 minutes, the solubility is 30wt.% Or less, the difference in bending resistance before and after washing for 10 minutes is 4% or less, and the shrinkage of the laundry is 3% or less. do.

The silk fabrics according to the invention are silk fabrics in which (a) the epoxy compound, (b) the silicone resin and (c) the amino flask resin and / or the glyoxal resin are out of sequence (but not the last to adapt the epoxy compound). To (a), (b) and (c) in wet state while the silk fabric is fixed to the fabric and finally the low tension is applied It can be produced by a method characterized by heat drying the silk fabric applied.

Solubility in the present invention means the weight loss of the silk fabric after immersion in 5wt.% Sodium hydroxide aqueous solution for 60 minutes at 65 ℃.

Solubility should be 30 wt.% Or less, preferably 20 wt.% Or less. Solubility is related to the degree of wear during the washing of silk fabrics.

If the solubility is 30 wt.% Or less, the wear grade is 3 or more.

If the solubility is 20 wt.% Or less, the wear grade is 5 or 4.

The abrasion rating was measured 10 times by washing the silk fabric by the method according to JIS L 0217 105, taking a piece of it, and observing it with a scanning electron microscope (× 1000) to measure the fibrillation degree of the fiber.

In the case of silk fabrics not processed with epoxy compounds, fibrillated microfibers were observed to be entangled and classified as first grade.

On the other hand, fibrillation was hardly observed in the fabric which has not been washed yet, and it was classified as a 5th grade.

When fibrillated microfibers were slightly observed, they were classified as 4 grades, when fibrillated microfibers were slightly entangled, and as 3 grades.

In the method according to JIS L0217 105, a domestic washing machine having a standard washing capacity and a standard washing tank volume is used.

Water at 30 ° C. is filled to the highest water level, to which a neutral synthetic detergent for fabric is added and dissolved in an amount of 2 g per 1 l of water to form a wash liquor.

Weigh the fabric sample, if necessary, weigh the fabric, place it in the wash solution up to 1/300 for the wash solution instead of 1/60, set it to a weak water flow, and start operation.

Stop operation after 5 minutes and dewater the sample and any additional fabrics.

Fresh water at room temperature was filled with the aforementioned ratios and then rinsed for 2 minutes.

The operation was stopped again, dehydrated and the rinsing for 2 minutes was repeated once more.

After dehydration the fabric samples were dried without exposure to direct sunlight and then ironed if necessary.

In the present invention, the bending resistance was measured according to JIS L 1096 Method D (Heart Loop Method).

Samples were taken from the central portion of the silk fabric and conditioned by standing until the water content reached equilibrium in a method of temperature 20 ± 2 ° C. and humidity 65 ± 2%.

Ten test strips (2 × 25 cm) were cut out in the weft or warp direction, respectively.

One end of the strip was placed at the other end to form a heart shape. Both ends are held by horizontally supported clamps so that the concave part of the heart rests on the clamp and the convex part of the heart lies under the clap.

The free length of the heart-shaped strip is 20 cm.

One minute after the heart-shaped strip is held by the clamp, the distance L from the bottom of the heart to the top edge of the clamp (not the top of the heart) is measured in mm and then relaxes and returns to measure L for the same strip. do.

From 10 strips we get 20 values for each of the weft and warp directions, dividing by 20 and discard the rest.

This is bending resistance L ₁ .

In addition, a part of the same silk fabric is washed 10 times using a wash liquid ratio modified according to JIS L 0217 105 described above.

Another bending resistance L ₂ is measured on the silk fabric thus washed. The difference between the bending resistance before washing and after washing ten times is defined as follows.

% Difference = (L ₁ -L ₂ ) / L ₁ × 100

This difference should be 4% or less, preferably 3% or less. If the difference is greater than 4%, the texture change during washing is so large that such fabrics cannot be washed in a washing machine.

In the present invention, the laundry shrinkage refers to a shrinkage rate (%) after washing 10 times without ironing by using a laundry liquid ratio modified according to JIS L 0217 105.

The greater of the shrinkage of laundry in the weft and warp directions should be 3% or less, preferably 2.5% or less.

If it exceeds 3%, the dimensional change is too large to be washed in the washing machine.

Conventionally, there has been no known processed silk fabric with a solubility of 30 wt.

The epoxy compound used here has at least one glycidyl group.

Water solubility is preferred for easier operation.

Such water-soluble epoxy compounds include mono- and polyglycidyl ethers of ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, tris (2-hydroxyethyl) isocyanate Anurates, trimethylol propane, neopentyl glycol, phenol ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol ethylene oxide.

Preferred of these are polyglycidyl ethers of ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, phenol ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol ethylene oxide.

In terms of effects, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether and polyethylene glycol diglyciether are preferable.

Conventional catalysts may be used in the epoxy compounds for curing.

Sodium chloride and pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate can be preferably used for ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether.

Silicone resins used herein include silicone elastomers and examples thereof include epoxy-modified silicones, amino-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, and rubber silicones in terms of the texture of the fabric.

Rubber silicone is particularly preferred in that it is compatible with the epoxide.

Terminal diol type rubber silicone is more preferable.

Conventional catalysts can be added for silicon.

The aminoplast resins used herein include melamine formalin resins, triazone formaldehyde resins, urea formaldehyde resins, ethylene urea formaldehyde resins, other N-methylol resins, N-methylolether resins, and mixtures thereof. .

Melamine formalin resin is preferred in that the texture is more persistent.

Glyoxal resins used herein include dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea and tetramethylol acetylene diurea.

Conventional catalysts can be added for the amino flask resins or glyoxal resins.

In the process for producing silk fabrics according to the invention, epoxy compounds (a), silicone resins (b), and amino plaster resins and / or glyoxal resins (c) are applied to silk fabrics in the form of aqueous solutions or dispersions together or without sequence. It is desirable to be.

However, the epoxy compound must be applied last. Otherwise, the epoxy compound damages the feel improved by the silicone resin.

If (a), (b) and (c) are all applied together, they may be applied to the silk fabric through only one bed by means of dipping, padding or soaking methods.

It is then optionally dried and then baked or steamed to adhere to the fabric.

If only the epoxy compound is first applied to the silk fabric, the compound is applied by dipping, padding or soaking and then allowed to settle at room temperature, i.e., so-called cold batch drying as required and then baking or steaming or epoxy It can adhere to the fabric by heating in solution.

It is then preferred that the silicone resin (b) and the aminoplast or glyoxal resin (c) are applied together by padding and then dried and baked.

Alternatively, the silicone resin (b) and the aminoplast or glyoxal resin (c) may be applied separately, preferably in the order of (b) followed by (c).

When the epoxy compound is applied to the silk fabric alone, it may be fixed or cured in various ways.

For example, it can cure in a cold batch at 10-40 ° C. for 20 hours or longer.

Alternatively, it can be heated in an epoxy compound bed.

Preferably, the epoxy compound is padded in a silk fabric and immediately steamed or dried, and most preferably dried at a temperature lower than 130 ° C., for example, heat treated at 140-180 ° C. for 0.5-2 minutes.

In order to fix the silicone resin (b) or the aminoplast or glyoxal resin (c), it is preferable to first dry the silk fabric to which the resin is applied and then dry heat for 0.5-2 minutes at 140-180 ° C., for example.

When the epoxy compound (a) is applied together with the resins (b) and (c), it may be fixed at a time by the above-mentioned dry heat method.

Preferred concentrations of epoxy compound (a) and resin (b) in solutions or dispersions applied to silk fabrics are described below.

When the epoxy resin (a) is applied by padding, the concentration is preferably 70-400 g / l, in particular 100-300 g / l.

In the case of soaking, the concentration is preferably 5-50 g / l, in particular 10-40 g / l.

This range is desirable to obtain sufficient wear resistance and wet wrinkling resistance with a soft feel.

The silicone resin (b) is preferably used at a solid concentration of 0.6-12 g / l, in particular 1-11 g / l.

The aminoplast or glyoxal resin (c) is preferably used at a solid concentration of 0.5-10 g / l, in particular 1-7.5 g / l.

The amount of each of (a), (b) and (c) applied to the silk fabric is preferably 3-12 g based on 1 m 2 of the fabric.

If the amount is less than this, the washing durability effect is inferior.

If the amount is larger than this, the original texture of the silk is damaged.

One of the important points in the method for producing silk fabric according to the present invention is that the silk fabric to which the epoxy compound (a), the silicone resin (b) and the aminoplast and / or glyoxal resin (c) is applied and present in the wet state is It is heated and dried under low tension.

This heat drying under low tension can occur after compound (a) and resins (b) and (c) have been fixed or cured.

That is, the silk fabric processed with (a), (b) and (c) is wetted with water or an aqueous solution and then heated and dried under low tension.

Alternatively, the heat drying under low tension may be such that the last resin (b) or (c) is applied alone or in combination with an epoxide (a) and / or another resin (c) or (b) from an aqueous solution or dispersion. It may also be made as one step to be fixed by heating under low tension.

However, the last mentioned method is less preferred.

The term "low tension" herein means a tension that is not actively applied to the fabric.

Of course, some tension is indispensable for moving the fabric during the continuous drying process.

However, actively or strongly drawing the fabric between the inlet and outlet of the dryer should be avoided.

It is desirable that the tension is as low as possible.

To achieve this low tension, the shrinkage of the fabric due to drying must be taken into account.

The continuous dryer is equipped with a tension sensor, a take-up speed change and feed rate detector, and a device for controlling these speeds.

The fabric is preferably fed by air to the dryer through the slit.

It is also preferred to be transferred to the dryer by air or in the form of a short loop.

It is desirable that the drying rate is lower than usual.

As the dryer, it is preferable to use a net dryer or a short loop dryer equipped with the above-described apparatus.

When the wet silk fabric is heat dried under low tension, the fabric may shrink sufficiently to exhibit good dimensional stability in subsequent machine washes.

The silk fabric processed according to the invention in this way can be further subjected to conventional finishing.

For example, the processed fabric may or may not be introduced with softeners or water, may be heat set at 140-170 ° C. for 30-60 seconds, steam set with a semi-decatifizer, and further calendered at room temperature. have.

This finishing step can also be done under low tension in the warp direction.

In thermal settings, the fabric may preferably be tented at least 0-3%.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples which do not limit the scope of the invention.

In the examples, solubility, difference in bending resistance, washing shrinkage and abrasion were measured as described above.

Another measurement of texture and bending strength was carried out using the KES-FB system manufactured by Kato Tech.

Values from the warp and weft directions were averaged.

In addition, the samples were measured before washing and after washing ten times using the washing liquid ratio modified according to JIS L 0217 105 described above.

In order to evaluate light resistance, after irradiating for 60 hours, reflectance was measured according to JIS L 0842.

Yellow sea water (Y.I.) was calculated from the reflectance measured according to the following equation:

The smaller the sulfidation index, the better the light resistance.

Wet wrinkle resistance was measured according to JIS L 1096, wrinkle resistance, Method B (Monsanto method).

Example 1

Dipping solution was prepared using the following concentrations of water and water:

Epoxide: Ethylene glycol (n = 1) diglycidyl ether 200 g / l

Silicone resin: 25 g / l of Ultratex FSE (Ciba-Geigy, 30% resin) and 30 g / l of Ultratex 7261 (Ciba-Geigy, 25%)

Aminoplast resin: Beckamine MA-S (Dainippon Ink Co.Content 70%) 10g / l

Catalyst for epoxide: Sodium chloride 100g / l Catalyst for silicone resin: Phobotone WS (Ciba-Geigy) 5g / l

Catalyst for aminoplast resins: Catalyst 376 (Dainippon Ink Co.) 5 g / l

A silk fabric called Fujisilk, which has a double strand warp with a number of threads of 140 and a single strand weft with a variable of 60, is immersed in the dipping solution, squeezed by 75% with a pressing roller, dried at 120 ° C., and pinned at 30 ° C. for 30 seconds. Baked in a hot air dryer having a.

The fabric is immersed in water and compressed, and then conveyed by a short loop dryer in a short loop, where the length of each short loop is measured using a photocell, and the base is controlled by a roll motor driven by a torque motor. Make the length of the short loop uniform.

A jet air nozzle is disposed in the inlet of the short loop dryer along the entire width of the fabric to blow air from the top to the loop so that the loop is not lifted by the air rising from the bottom of the dryer.

The fabric was dried at 120 ° C. under low tension.

The width of the processed fabric was 110 cm.

Water was further sprayed on this fabric and finally set at 60 ° C. for 60 seconds while tentering to a width of 112 cm.

Subsequently, steam setting was performed with a semi-decatifier and calendered at room temperature. The properties of the silk fabric thus run are shown in Example 1 of Table 1. As a control, a dipping liquid containing 200 g / l ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether and 100 g / l sodium chloride was made.

The method according to Example 1 was repeated using this dipping liquid.

The properties of this silk fabric are shown in Comparative Example 1 of Table 1.

The properties of the raw silk fabrics are also shown as controls in Table 1.

As shown in the table, it was observed that the texture and abrasion of the untreated fabrics were greatly changed.

In fabrics processed only with epoxides, the texture changed significantly during washing.

The difference in bending resistance is greater than 4%.

In the fabrics processed according to the invention the change in texture was very small and the fabric remained soft.

It was also satisfactory in solubility, sulphide index, and anti-wrinkling, as well as solubility and laundry shrinkage.

TABLE 1

B.W. : Before washing, A.W. : After washing

*: The larger the value, the stiff the texture.

**: The higher the value, the softer the texture.

TABLE 2

B.W. : Before washing, A.W. : After washing

*: The larger the value, the stiff the texture.

**: The higher the value, the softer the texture.

TABLE 3

B.W. : Before washing, A.W. : After washing

*: The larger the value, the stiff the texture.

**: The higher the value, the softer the texture.

TABLE 4

B.W. : Before washing, A.W. : After washing

*: The larger the value, the stiff the texture.

**: The higher the value, the softer the texture.

Example 2

Dipping solution was prepared using the following concentrations of water and water:

Epoxide: Ethylene glycol (n = 13) diglycidyl ether 200 g / l

Silicone resin: Ultratex ESC (Ciba-Geigy) 25g / l

Aminoplast resin: Beckamine MA-S (Dainippon Ink Co.) 10g / l

Catalyst for epoxide: Sodium chloride 100g / l

Catalysts for silicone resins: Ultratex Catalyst ZF (Ciba-Geigy) 5g / l

Catalyst for aminoplast resins: Catalyst 376 (Dainippon Ink Co.) 5 g / l

A silk fabric called Fujisilk, which has a two-strand warp with a variable of 140 and a two-strand weft with a variable of 140, is immersed in the dipping solution, pressed 72% with a pressing roller, dried at 120 ° C, and pinned at 170 ° C for 60 seconds. Baked in a hot air dryer with a tenter.

This fabric was wetted and dried in accordance with the present invention and then subjected to finishing as in Example 1.

The properties of the silk fabrics thus processed are shown in Example 2 of Table 2.

As a control, a dipping solution containing 200 g / l polyethylene glycol (n = 13) diglycidyl ether and 100 g / l sodium chloride was prepared.

The method described in Example 1 was repeated using this dipping liquid.

The properties of this silk fabric are shown in Comparative Example 2 in Table 2.

The properties of the raw silk fabrics are also shown as controls in Table 2.

The fabrics processed according to the invention prior to washing were similar in texture to the unprocessed.

The change in hand feel and abrasion during washing was small for the fabric according to the invention.

Example 3

A dipping solution was prepared using 100 g / l pentasodium diethylenetriamine pentaacetate and water as catalysts for epoxide, diglycerol diglycidyl ether and epoxide at a concentration of 100 g / l.

A silk fabric called Fujisilk with a two-strand warp of variable 120 and a two-strand weft of 120 is immersed in the dipping solution, pressed 74% with a pressing roller, dried at 120 ° C and baked at 170 ° C for 60 seconds. did.

This was set as Comparative Example 3.

Dipping solution was made using the following materials and water:

Silicone resin: Right Silicone A-500 (Kyoeisha Yushi Co., Content 20%) 10g / l Ultratex 7261 (Ciba-Geigy, Content 25%) 15g / l

Glyoxal resin: Beckamine LFK (Dainippon Ink Co., Content 45%) 15g / l

Catalyst for silicone resin: Phobotone WS (Ciba-Geigy) 5g / l Ultratex Catalyst ZF (Ciba-Geigy) 5g / l

Catalyst for glyoxal resin: Catalyst G (Dainippon Ink Co., 10g / l

The epoxide processed fabric was immersed in a second dipping solution, pressed 70%, dried at 120 ° C. and baked at 170 ° C. for 1 minute in a hot air dryer with a pintenter (Comparative Example 4).

The fabric was immersed in water and passed through a short loop dryer, a semi-dectifier and a calender as in Example 1 (Example 3).

Their properties are shown in Table 3 along with the raw control properties.

As shown in the table below, the silicone resin produced a soft texture and made small changes in the texture during washing.

In addition, the shrinkage of the laundry was also small by wetting the resin processed fabric and drying it under low tension.

Example 4

Fuji silk with two strands of warp and weft with variable 120 was soaked in a bed containing 20 g of ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, 100 g / l sodium chloride and water as a catalyst for epoxies, and then at 90 ° C. Heated and held for 60 minutes.

After washing with water and drying, the epoxide processed fabric was placed in a dipping solution made of the following material and water:

Silicone resin: Right Silicone A-500 (Kyoeisha Yushi Co., Content 20%) 5g / l

Glyoxal resin: Beckamine LFK (Dainippon Ink Co., Content 45%) 10g / l

Catalyst for glyoxal: Catalyst G (Dainippon Ink Co.,) 10g / l

The fabric was pressed 70% and then dried at 120 ° C. and baked in a hot air dryer with a pin tenter at 160 ° C. for 90 seconds.

The fabric was immersed in water and the short loop dryer, semi decantizer and calender were granulated as in Example 1.

The properties of this fabric are shown in Table 4 along with the properties of the raw controls.

Claims (19)

The fabric is processed with (a) an epoxy compound, (b) a silicone resin and (c) an aminoplast resin and / or a glyoxal resin and the solubility of the fabric is soaked in a 5 wt.% Aqueous sodium hydroxide solution at 65 ° C. for 60 minutes. When the water wash silk fabric, characterized in that less than 30wt.%, The difference in bending resistance before and after washing 10 times less than 4% and the shrinkage shrinkage of less than 3%. The water-washing silk fabric of claim 1, wherein the solubility is 20 wt.% Or less. The water-washing silk fabric of claim 1, wherein the difference in bending resistance is 3% or less. The water-washing silk fabric of claim 1, wherein the washing shrinkage is 2.5% or less. The epoxy compound according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the epoxy compound is selected from polyglycidyl ether of ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, phenol ethylene oxide and lauryl alcohol ethylene oxide. Washing silk fabric, characterized in that. The water-washing silk fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the silicone resin is a silicone elastomer. The aminoplast resin according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the aminoplast resin is a melamine formalin resin, triazone formaldehyde resin, urea formaldehyde resin, ethylene urea formaldehyde resin, other N-methylol resin, N-methylol A water laundered silk fabric, wherein the glyoxal resin is selected from ether resins and mixtures thereof, and the glyoxal resin is selected from dimethyl dihydroxyethylene urea and tetramethylol acetylene diurea. (a) an epoxy compound, (b) a silicone resin, and (c) an amino plaster resin and / or a glyoxal resin together or separately in any order, without the epoxy compound being applied last, and then the silk fabric Fixing the compound and the resin to the silk fabric by allowing the fabric to stand at room temperature or by heating, finally applying the additives (a), (b) and (c) and heating and drying the silk fabric which is in the wet state under low tension Method for producing a water-washing silk fabric, characterized in that it comprises a process of making. 9. A process according to claim 8, wherein the last step is carried out as a separate step after (a), (b) and (c) has been fixed and in the last step the silk fabric is wetted with water or an aqueous solution and then heated and dried under low tension. How to feature. The method of claim 8, wherein the last step is wherein the last resin (b) or (c) is applied alone or together with (a) and / or the other resin (c) or (b) from an aqueous solution or dispersion and heated under tension Characterized in that it comprises one step of drying. 9. A method according to claim 8, wherein (a), (b) and (c) are applied together and fixed, and then the silk fabric is wet and heat dried under low tension. 9. The process according to claim 8, wherein the epoxy compound (a) is first applied and fixed, and the resins (b) and (c) are applied and fixed together and then the fabric is wet and heat dried under low tension. 9. A method according to claim 8, wherein (a), (b) and (c) are individually applied and fixed in this order. 9. A process according to claim 8, wherein (a), (b) and (c) are fixed in the presence of a catalyst. 9. A method according to claim 8, which involves finishing. The method of claim 15, wherein the finishing comprises steps associated with softeners, calendering, sting settings and / or calendering. 9. A method according to claim 8, wherein the tension is kept low by an apparatus for feeding the silk fabric by air without drawing the silk fabric so strongly that the fabric is fed in a continuous heat drying process. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the tension is kept low by controlling the feed rate of the fabric in a continuous heat drying process. 18. The method according to claim 17, wherein a short loop dryer having an air supply is used.