CN111020959B - Finishing process for shrinkage of real silk garment fabric - Google Patents
Finishing process for shrinkage of real silk garment fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111020959B CN111020959B CN201911347999.6A CN201911347999A CN111020959B CN 111020959 B CN111020959 B CN 111020959B CN 201911347999 A CN201911347999 A CN 201911347999A CN 111020959 B CN111020959 B CN 111020959B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C29/00—Finishing or dressing, of textile fabrics, not provided for in the preceding groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
- D06B15/10—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours by use of centrifugal force
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C3/00—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics
- D06C3/02—Stretching, tentering or spreading textile fabrics; Producing elasticity in textile fabrics by endless chain or like apparatus
- D06C3/04—Tentering clips
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/188—Monocarboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/564—Polyureas, polyurethanes or other polymers having ureide or urethane links; Precondensation products forming them
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
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- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
A finishing process for shrinkage of real silk garment materials belongs to the technical field of real silk after finishing. The method sequentially comprises the following steps: dehydrating, unwinding, drying, tentering and shaping; unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment fabric by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 200-300 r/min, and the radial tension and the latitudinal tension after unwinding are 0; drying: keeping the natural relaxation state of the real silk garment fabric, drying the real silk garment fabric by hot air at 70-90 ℃ for 7-10 minutes and at 110-120 ℃ for 2-5 minutes, wherein the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0; tentering and setting: and (3) tentering and setting the real silk garment fabric at the temperature of 80-100 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 20-35m/min. According to the finishing process of shrinkage of the real silk garment material, the shrinkage of the obtained real silk garment material in the radial direction and the weft direction is obviously reduced, and the breaking strength of the fabric is obviously improved.
Description
Technical Field
A finishing process for shrinkage of real silk garment materials belongs to the technical field of real silk after finishing.
Background
The silk garment fabric is a fabric woven by silk fiber yarns in both warp and weft. The silk fiber mainly comprises animal protein, and has good air permeability and excellent hygroscopicity. After the real silk garment fabric is dried again in the presence of water, the fabric can shrink in the presence of water, namely the real silk garment fabric has a radial shrinkage rate and a weft shrinkage rate. The real silk garment material is widely used in the fields of high-grade clothes and bedding. When making high-grade clothes and bedclothes, the clothes and bedclothes are contacted with skin and worn, and need to be washed regularly. The wearing performance of the real silk garment material is affected by the overlarge radial shrinkage and the weft shrinkage of the real silk garment material.
In the prior art, the dyed and bleached real silk garment material is mostly finished later so as to reduce the shrinkage of the fabric in the radial direction and the latitudinal direction. However, the applicant researches and discovers that the following problems exist: firstly, the shrinkage of the silk fabric finished by the existing process is still too high in the radial direction and the weft direction, the conventional shrinkage of the radial direction is more than 4% and the conventional shrinkage of the weft direction is more than 1%, and the requirements of customers cannot be met; after purchasing real silk fabric, customers are mostly used for making clothes, if the fabric shrinkage rate is high, the made clothes can shrink and lose shape after being washed and dried, and shrink wrinkles can appear at seams of the clothes; the real silk garment fabric is different from cotton-flax and wool fabrics, has special soft light reflection, and has a particularly prominent visual effect when shrinkage wrinkles appear on the real silk garment fabric with a light reflection effect; in addition, the radial shrinkage of the real silk garment material obtained by the prior art is over high and is generally 4-10%, when the real silk garment material is used for manufacturing bedding, the radial length of a conventional bed sheet quilt cover is 230-280cm, so that the bed sheet quilt cover is shortened by at least 9cm-18cm after being washed by water for a client, and the shrunk bed sheet quilt cover is not attractive or even unusable. Secondly, with the acceleration of the pace of life and the popularization of household washing machines, more and more customers adopt machine washing for the real silk garment materials, and the machine washing has higher requirements for the breaking strength of the real silk garment materials, such as the breaking strength is too low, and the machine washing times are increased, so that the real silk garment materials are easy to be damaged in the washing process. The existing real silk garment fabric is not ideal in breaking strength performance, and the breaking strength is generally less than 240N; compared with other fiber fabrics, the real silk fabric is generally light and thin, is easy to damage in strength in the finishing process, and is damaged due to the fact that the breaking strength is too low in the washing and wearing processes.
Disclosure of Invention
The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: the defects of the prior art are overcome, and the shrinkage rate of the real silk garment material obtained by the process is obviously reduced in the radial direction and the weft direction, and the breaking strength of the fabric is obviously improved.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: the finishing process of the shrinkage of the real silk garment material comprises the following steps: dehydrating, unwinding, drying, tentering and shaping;
unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment fabric by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 200-300 r/min, and the radial tension and the latitudinal tension after unwinding are 0;
drying: keeping the natural relaxation state of the real silk garment fabric, drying the real silk garment fabric by hot air at 70-90 ℃ for 7-10 minutes and at 110-120 ℃ for 2-5 minutes, wherein the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0;
tentering and setting: and (3) tentering and setting the real silk garment fabric at the temperature of 80-100 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 20-35m/min.
The dehydration step adopts the following operations: and (3) centrifugally dewatering the real silk garment fabric at the rotation speed of 700-800 rpm for 2-10 min.
The drying step comprises the following specific operations: the real silk garment material is kept in a natural loose state, and is dried by hot air, at 80 ℃ for 8 minutes and at 115 ℃ for 3 minutes, and the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0.
The specific operations of the tentering and setting step are as follows: and (3) tentering and setting the real silk garment fabric at the temperature of 90 ℃ and the speed of 30m/min.
The tentering setting step further comprises the following operations: measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, and measuring and calculating the average value a of the width for multiple times; in the tenter setting step, the tenter width is set to be not more than the width average value a.
The equipment used in the drying step is a short-ring dryer.
The equipment used in the stentering and shaping step is a small cloth clip stenter.
The method also comprises a step of padding a setting liquid, wherein the step of padding the setting liquid is between the step of unwinding and the step of drying; the padding shaping liquid steps are specifically operated as follows: padding the real silk garment fabric into a setting liquid, wherein the vehicle speed is 20 to 35m/min, the temperature of the setting liquid is 20 to 30 ℃, and the pH value is 5 to 5.5; the shaping liquid comprises water, acetic acid, PU resin, a non-ionic cross-linking agent and a catalyst; the bath ratio of the PU resin is 30-32g/L, the bath ratio of the nonionic crosslinking agent is 3-4g/L, and the bath ratio of the catalyst is 3-4g/L.
The PU resin is formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF, the nonionic cross-linking agent is cross-linking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155, and the catalyst is lofoprisett KBC.
The formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF can stabilize the size of the real silk fabric and reduce the shrinkage rate of the fabric, and the cross-linking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155 can improve the adhesiveness of the formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF on real silk fibers. The lofoprikate KBC is used as a resin catalyst, so that the reaction can be promoted, and the shrinkage of the fabric can be reduced.
In the research of the applicant, in the large-scale production, in order to improve the production efficiency and realize continuous high-speed production, the radial direction or the latitudinal direction of the fabric is pulled in each process, so that stress is generated in the fabric, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric of the real silk garment in the radial direction and the latitudinal direction is still high no matter how finishing is performed. And the radial shrinkage is generally higher than the weft and is more difficult to eliminate due to long length and difficult stress elimination in the radial direction.
The prior art comprises refining, rolling, drying a woolen blanket, tentering or refining small cloth clips, dewatering and hot air overfeeding finishing. Plain and spinning products need to be dried by a woolen blanket, and georgette and crepe products need to be finished by hot air overfeeding. The prior art comprises the following steps: firstly, adopting the steps of rolling wet fabric under tension, drying under tension, and tentering under tension; the tension rolling refers to a water-rolling machine or a rolling machine with a driving shaft; tension drying refers to a woolen blanket dryer; in the process, stress is generated in the radial direction of the fabric in the steps of tension rolling and tension drying, the fabric is longer in the radial direction, the stress is difficult to eliminate, and finally the radial shrinkage rate is overhigh. Secondly, the wet fabric is dehydrated, uncoiled and tentered by hot air, and the step of tentering by hot air is carried out on a hot air tentering machine, so that the continuous high-speed operation of hot air drying and tentering setting can be realized; however, the speed of the hot air tenter is generally 35 to 40m/min, and the stretching is strong for latitudinal and radial stretching; and under high speed, in order to realize complete drying and shaping, the hot air tenter generally has high heating temperature and short heating time, and the temperature is 120 to 140 ℃ and the time is less than or equal to 1min. Under the conditions of high temperature and high speed, although the moisture in the fabric is rapidly dissipated in a short time, the fabric cannot be fully retracted, the stress in the fabric is difficult to eliminate, and finally the real silk garment fabric has high retraction rate.
The invention belongs to the post-finishing process, and the real silk garment fabric used in the dehydration step is the real silk garment fabric subjected to the processes of bleaching and dyeing.
The drying step further comprises the following operations: measuring the width of the dried real silk garment fabric, and measuring and calculating the average value a of the width for multiple times; in the tenter setting step, tenter width = width average value a + b, and b is 0-1cm. The tentering and setting step in the invention has the function of finishing the fabric width to ensure that the edges of the real silk garment fabric are smooth. The tentering width is calculated, so that excessive tentering in the tentering and setting step can be avoided, the weft shrinkage is reduced, and the breaking strength is improved.
In the invention, the fabric is dehydrated and uncoiled, the stress generated in the radial direction of the fabric under coiling and high vehicle speed is eliminated, then the real silk garment fabric is dried for 7 to 10 minutes at 70 to 90 ℃ under the condition of no tension in the warp and weft directions, so that the moisture in the fabric is slowly dissipated, and then dried for 2 to 5 minutes at 110 to 120 ℃, so that the fabric is fully retracted in the radial direction and the weft direction.
Compared with the prior art, the finishing process of the hyaluronic acid real silk fabric and the preparation method thereof have the beneficial effects that:
1. the fabric obtained by the finishing process has obviously reduced shrinkage in the radial direction and the weft direction. The applicant designs the procedures of unwinding and drying, and firstly, the radial stress of the fabric is eliminated through unwinding; then, in the drying process, the fabric is dried without tension, and the drying time is prolonged, so that the fabric naturally retracts in the air drying process, and the shrinkage rates of the fabric in the radial direction and the weft direction are reduced; and finally, in the tentering and setting process, only the tension in the weft direction is adjusted, so that the radial stretching is avoided. The final fabric has a radial shrinkage of 0.5-1.5% and a weft shrinkage of 0.01-0.02%, and compared with the existing real silk garment fabric, the warp shrinkage and the weft shrinkage of the fabric are obviously reduced. The bed sheet and the quilt cover products made of the fabric obtained by the invention have almost no change in size before and after washing by customers.
2. The breaking strength of the fabric obtained by the finishing process is obviously improved. In the tentering and setting process, the temperature is 80 to 100 ℃, and the weft tension is 3 to 12%. Because the real silk is a protein fiber, and is dried and shaped at high temperature, although the working efficiency is high, the protein of the real silk fiber is denatured at high temperature, and the fiber strength can be adversely affected, so that the breaking strength of the fabric is reduced. The invention is carried out at a temperature of 90-110 ℃ in the drying step and at a temperature of 80-90 ℃ in the tentering and setting step, so as to avoid high temperature damage to the breaking strength of the fabric. Finally, the breaking strength of the fabric obtained by the invention is obviously improved.
Detailed Description
Examples 1 to 7 are specific examples of the finishing process of the shrinkage of the real silk garment fabric, wherein example 1 is the best mode.
The equipment used in the examples and comparative examples is as follows:
a water-squeezing rolling machine: the model ZQ 871-180 is produced by Xinchang printing machinery factory, and the external dimension is 4.5m multiplied by 2.5m multiplied by 1.2m;
an uncoiling machine: the model ZM-180 is produced by Xinchang printing machinery factories, and the external dimension is 0.8m multiplied by 2m multiplied by 1.7m;
dewatering machine: zibo printing and dyeing equipment factory production, model YTG-1000, appearance size, external diameter 1.6m and height 0.7m;
a short-loop dryer, model AFC180, made by Ali Olympic, italy, with overall dimensions of 5m × 3.5m × 4m and a weight of 15.37kg;
multi-roller woolen blanket dryer: produced by Xinchang printing machinery factory, model number ZLMP 11-160, the external dimension is 7.6m multiplied by 2.6m multiplied by 2.8m;
little cloth gripper tentering setting machine: model ZLMD 402-160 produced by Xinchang printing machinery works, and the external dimension is 16m multiplied by 3.7m multiplied by 3m;
a hot air tenter manufactured by Men Fuji of Germany under model MONTEX8K, with dimensions of 32.2m × 3.8m × 3.5m;
the formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF and the cross-linking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155 are produced by Zhan Shanghai and Shikugaku Co., ltd;
catalyst: the lofolapatch KBC is produced by Desida company, and the acetic acid is produced by Jiangsu Sopp company;
in the step of padding the setting liquid, a liquid tank is arranged in front of the short-ring dryer, a cloth guide roller is arranged in the liquid tank, and the setting liquid is put into the liquid tank.
Example 1
The real silk garment material is double-crepe with the gram weight of 72.5 g/m 2 ；
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: the real silk garment material is centrifugally dewatered by a hydro-extracting cage, the rotating speed is 700 r/min, and the time is 3min.
2) Unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment material by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 300 r/min, the radial tension and the latitudinal tension are 0 after unwinding, and stacking the unwound real silk garment material in a tank car;
3) Drying: the real silk garment material keeps a natural loose state, is dried by hot air by using a short-ring dryer, is firstly dried for 8 minutes at 80 ℃, and then is dried for 3 minutes at 115 ℃, and the warp-wise tension and the weft-wise tension are both 0; measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, wherein the average value of the width is 114.8cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: the real silk garment fabric is stretched and shaped by using a small clip tentering and shaping machine at the temperature of 90 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 30m/min, the weft tension is 8 percent, and the width after finishing is 114.8cm.
Example 2
The real silk garment material is crepe satin plain with a gram weight of 95.7g/m 2 ；
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: centrifugally dewatering the real silk garment fabric at a rotation speed of 750 revolutions per minute for 8 minutes;
2) Unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment material by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 250 r/min, the radial tension and the latitudinal tension are 0 after unwinding, and stacking the unwound real silk garment material in a tank car;
3) And (3) drying: the real silk garment material keeps a natural loose state, is dried by hot air by a short-ring dryer, is firstly dried for 10 minutes at 70 ℃, then is dried for 2 minutes at 120 ℃,
the temperature is 110 ℃, and the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0; measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, wherein the average value of the width is 100.6cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: and (3) stretching the real silk garment fabric into a setting machine by using a small clip at the temperature of 95 ℃, at the speed of 30m/min, and setting the width of the finished real silk garment fabric to be 100.6cm.
Example 3
The real silk clothing fabric is mulberry satin with the gram weight of 127.8g/m 2 ；
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: centrifugally dewatering the real silk garment fabric at the rotation speed of 700 rpm for 5min;
2) Unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment material by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 200 r/min, the radial tension and the latitudinal tension are 0 after unwinding, and stacking the unwound real silk garment material in a tank car;
3) Drying: the real silk garment fabric keeps a natural loose state, is dried by hot air by using a short-ring dryer, is dried for 7 minutes at 90 ℃ and is dried for 3 minutes at 110 ℃, and both the warp tension and the weft tension are 0; measuring the width of the dried real silk garment fabric, wherein the width is between 114 and 115cm, and the average value of the width is 101.0cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: and (3) stretching the real silk garment fabric into a setting machine by using a small clip at the temperature of 100 ℃, the speed of the machine is 30m/min, the weft tension is 8%, and the width after finishing is 101cm.
Example 4
The real silk garment material is a macro-crepe with the gram weight of 75.7g/m 2 ；
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: centrifugal dewatering is carried out on the real silk garment fabric at the rotating speed of 800 revolutions per minute for 10min;
2) Unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment material by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 300 r/min, the radial tension and the latitudinal tension after unwinding are 0, and stacking the unwound real silk garment material in a tank car;
3) Drying: the real silk garment material keeps a natural loose state, is dried by hot air by a short-ring dryer, is dried for 8 minutes at 80 ℃ and is dried for 5 minutes at 110 ℃,
the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0; measuring the width of the dried real silk garment fabric, wherein the width is between 114 and 115cm, and the average value of the width is 110.3cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: and (3) performing tentering setting on the real silk garment fabric by using a small clip at the temperature of 80 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 30m/min, the weft tension is 8%, and the finished width is 110.5cm.
Example 5
The real silk garment material is crepe satin plain with a gram weight of 82.1g/m 2 ；
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: centrifugally dewatering the real silk garment fabric at a rotation speed of 750 revolutions per minute for 2min;
2) Unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment material by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 250 r/min, the radial tension and the latitudinal tension after unwinding are 0, and stacking the unwound real silk garment material in a tank car;
3) Drying: the real silk garment material keeps a natural loose state, is dried by hot air of a short-ring dryer at 80 ℃ for 9 minutes and at 110 ℃ for 3 minutes,
the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0; measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, wherein the average value of the width is 110.2cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: the real silk garment fabric is stretched and shaped by using a small clip tentering and shaping machine at the temperature of 90 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 30m/min, the weft tension is 8%, and the width after finishing is 111cm.
Example 6
The fabric of the embodiment is the same as that of embodiment 1.
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: same as example 1, step 1);
2) Unwinding: same as example 1, step 2);
3) Padding in a setting solution: padding the real silk garment fabric into setting liquid, wherein the speed is 20m/min, the temperature of the setting liquid is 20 ℃, and the pH value is 5; the shaping solution comprises water, acetic acid, formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF (bath ratio of 30 g/L), crosslinking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155 (bath ratio of 4 g/L), and lovoprikektC (bath ratio of 3 g/L);
3) And (3) drying: same as example 1, step 3); measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, wherein the average value of the width is 114.8cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
4) Tentering and setting: same as example 1, step 4).
Example 7
The fabric of this example is the same as example 1.
The finishing process of the embodiment comprises the following steps:
1) And (3) dehydrating: same as example 1, step 1);
2) Unwinding: same as example 1, step 2);
3) Padding a sizing solution: padding the real silk garment fabric into the setting liquid, wherein the speed is 35m/min, the temperature of the setting liquid is 20 ℃, and the pH value is 5.5; the shaping liquid comprises water, acetic acid, formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF (bath ratio of 32 g/L), crosslinking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155 (bath ratio of 3 g/L), and lofopristal KBC (bath ratio of 4 g/L);
4) And (3) drying: same as example 1, step 3); measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, wherein the average value of the width is 114.8cm after 10 times of measurement and calculation;
5) Tentering and setting: same as example 1, step 4).
Comparative example 1
The fabric of the comparative example is the same as the fabric of the example 1, and the process steps are as follows in sequence: tension rolling, tension drying and tentering setting;
and (3) tension rolling: rolling by a rolling and rolling machine, wherein the speed is 20m/min, and the radial tension is 10%;
and (3) tension drying: drying with a multi-roller woolen blanket dryer at speed of 20m/min, steam pressure of 0.5Mpa, temperature of 120 deg.C, tension of 10%, and packaging;
tentering and setting: the tentering process was performed in the same manner as in example 1.
Comparative example 2
The comparative fabric is the same as the fabric in the embodiment 1, and the process steps are as follows in sequence: dehydration, unwinding and hot air tentering;
and (3) dehydrating: the dehydration step was performed as in example 1;
unwinding: the same procedure as in example 1;
and (3) hot air tentering: the initial width is 116cm, a hot air stenter is used for processing, the temperature of the oven is 110 ℃ in the front section and 130 ℃ in the rear section, the speed is 40m/min, the overfeed is 5 percent, and the average width of the finished product is 115cm.
Comparative example 3
The comparative example and the process are the same as example 1, except that: 3) In the drying step, the drying time is 30 seconds, and the drying temperature is 135 ℃.
Comparative example 4
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 1 except that: 4) In the tenter setting step, the tenter temperature was 120 ℃.
Comparative example 5
The comparative example fabric was the same as example 2, and the process steps were the same as comparative example 1.
Comparative example 6
The comparative example fabric is the same as example 2, and the process steps are the same as comparative example 2.
Comparative example 7
The comparative example fabric and the process are the same as example 2, except that: 3) In the drying step, the drying time is 30 seconds, and the drying temperature is 135 ℃.
Comparative example 8
The fabric and process of this comparative example are the same as example 2 except that: 4) In the tenter setting step, the tenter temperature was 120 ℃.
Comparative example 9
The comparative example fabric was the same as example 3, and the process steps were the same as comparative example 1.
Comparative example 10
The comparative example fabric was the same as example 3, and the process steps were the same as comparative example 2.
Comparative example 11
The comparative example fabric and the process are the same as example 3, except that: 3) In the drying step, the drying time is 30 seconds, and the drying temperature is 135 ℃.
Comparative example 12
The comparative example fabric and process are the same as example 3, except that: 4) In the tenter setting step, the tenter temperature was 120 ℃.
Comparative example 13
The comparative fabric is the same as example 4, and the process steps are the same as comparative example 1.
Comparative example 14
The comparative fabric is the same as example 4, and the process steps are the same as comparative example 2.
Comparative example 15
The comparative example fabric and process are the same as example 4, except that: 3) In the drying step, the drying time is 30 seconds, and the drying temperature is 135 ℃.
Comparative example 16
The comparative example fabric and process are the same as example 4, except that: 4) In the tenter setting step, the tenter temperature was 120 ℃.
Comparative example 17
The comparative example fabric was the same as example 5, and the process steps were the same as comparative example 1.
Comparative example 18
The comparative fabric is the same as example 5, and the process steps are the same as comparative example 2.
Comparative example 19
The comparative example and the process are the same as example 5, except that: 3) In the drying step, the drying time is 30 seconds, and the drying temperature is 135 ℃.
Comparative example 20
The comparative example fabric and process were the same as example 5 except that: 4) In the tenter setting step, the tenter temperature was 120 ℃.
Performance test
The detection is carried out according to national standard mulberry silk woven fabric GB/T15551-2016. The radial shrinkage and the weft shrinkage of the real silk garment materials of the examples and the comparative examples and the breaking strength of the materials are detected, and the detection results are recorded in the following table.
A detection instrument:
YG (B) 026H-250 Wenzhou Darong textile instruments GmbH of electronic fabric strength machine
A full-automatic fabric shrinkage tester YG701E Ningbo textile Instrument Co., ltd;
scrub colour fastness scrub tester Y571B ningbo textile instruments ltd.
Table 1 results of performance testing of fabrics of examples 1, 6, 7 and comparative examples thereof
Table 2 fabric performance test results for example 2 and its comparative example
Table 3 fabric performance test results for example 3 and its comparative example
Table 4 fabric performance test results for example 4 and its comparative example
Table 5 fabric performance test results for example 5 and its comparative examples
As can be seen from the above table, the shrinkage rates in the radial direction and the weft direction of examples 1 to 5 are significantly reduced. When the invention is used for manufacturing clothes, the sizes of the clothes before and after washing are almost unchanged, the sewing line is smooth, and the sewing line wrinkles are not easy to appear. When the invention is used for manufacturing bedding, the size change of a bed sheet or a quilt cover with the length of 250cm (radial length) after washing is between 1.2 to 3.8cm, the size change is smaller, and the appearance size before and after washing is not obviously changed within an error range.
In the examples 6 to 7, the step of adding the padding setting liquid, compared with the example 1, the obtained fabric has the advantages that the radial shrinkage is further reduced, the breaking strength of the fabric is further improved, and the fabric can be used for producing high-grade clothing and bedding fabrics. Examples 6 to 7 were used to produce a sheet or a quilt cover with a length of 250cm (radial length), and the dimensional change after washing was 0.75 to 1.25cm; examples 6 to 7 were used for producing high-grade clothes, and no wrinkles were generated at the seams before and after washing with water.
The foregoing is directed to preferred embodiments of the present invention, other and further embodiments of the invention may be devised without departing from the basic scope thereof, and the scope thereof is determined by the claims that follow. However, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical spirit of the present invention may be made without departing from the technical spirit of the present invention.
Claims (7)
1. A finishing process for shrinkage of real silk garment materials is characterized by sequentially comprising the following steps: dehydrating, unwinding, drying, tentering and shaping;
unwinding: unwinding the real silk garment fabric by using an unwinding machine, wherein the rotating speed of a cloth guide roller is 200-300 r/min, and the radial tension and the latitudinal tension after unwinding are 0;
drying: keeping a natural relaxation state of the real silk garment fabric, drying the real silk garment fabric by hot air, drying the real silk garment fabric for 7 to 10 minutes at 70 to 90 ℃, and drying the real silk garment fabric for 2 to 5 minutes at 110 to 120 ℃, wherein the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0;
tentering and setting: stentering and shaping the real silk garment material at the temperature of 80-100 ℃ and the vehicle speed of 20-35m/min;
the drying step further comprises the following operations: measuring the width of the dried real silk garment material, and measuring and calculating the average value a of the width for multiple times; in the tentering setting step, setting a tentering width = width average value a + b, and b is 0-1cm;
the method also comprises a step of padding a setting liquid, wherein the step of padding the setting liquid is between the step of unwinding and the step of drying; the step of padding the setting liquid specifically comprises the following operations: padding the real silk garment fabric into a setting liquid, wherein the vehicle speed is 20 to 35m/min, the temperature of the setting liquid is 20 to 30 ℃, and the pH value is 5 to 5.5; the shaping liquid comprises water, acetic acid, PU resin, a non-ionic cross-linking agent and a catalyst; the bath ratio of PU resin is 30 to 32g/L, the bath ratio of the nonionic crosslinking agent is 3 to 4g/L, and the bath ratio of the catalyst is 3 to 4g/L.
2. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 1, characterized in that the dehydration step adopts the following operations: and (3) centrifugally dewatering the real silk garment fabric at the rotation speed of 700-800 rpm for 2-10 min.
3. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 1, characterized in that the drying step comprises the following specific operations: the real silk garment material is kept in a natural loose state, and is dried by hot air, at 80 ℃ for 8 minutes and at 115 ℃ for 3 minutes, and the warp tension and the weft tension are both 0.
4. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 1, characterized in that the tentering and setting step comprises the following specific operations: and (3) tentering and setting the real silk garment fabric at the temperature of 90 ℃ and the speed of 30m/min.
5. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the equipment used in the drying step is a short-ring dryer.
6. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following steps: the equipment used in the stentering and setting step is a small clip stenter.
7. The finishing process of real silk garment fabric shrinkage according to claim 6, characterized in that: the PU resin is formaldehyde-free resin FIXRESINCNF, the nonionic cross-linking agent is cross-linking agent MEIKAFENSH P-155, and the catalyst is lofoprisett KBC.
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