JP2002327354A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester woven fabric and a stretching fabric having extremely high bathochromic property, and excellent in stretching property, stretch recovery, soft feeling and warmth-keeping property. SOLUTION: The polyester woven fabric is produced by weaving using a colored wool-blended polyester spun yarn as warp and a colored core-sheath-type conjugated yarn consisting of the core yarn of a false-twisted polyester processed yarn and the sheath yarn of a wool-blended polyester spun yarn as weft, followed by finishing. The stretching fabric is processed so that it has a cover factor K expressed by the equation in the range of 20-50 after processing, and it has a stretch rate of 10-20% in the weft yarn direction and a stretch recovery rate of >=85% in the weft yarn direction. K=T1/√S1+T2/√S2 T1: the number of warps in 1 inch span. T2: the number of wefts in 1 inch span. S1: the yarn number count of the warp (English yarn number count for cotton). S2: the yarn number count of the weft (English yarn number count for cotton).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a wool-blended polyester fabric which is excellent in deep color, stretchability and stretch recovery, soft texture and heat retention.

More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester woven fabric and a stretch woven fabric suitable for use in school uniforms and the like woven in a twill structure, a cashmere structure, or the like.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, there has been an increasing demand for school uniforms that are excellent in deep color, stretchability, soft texture, heat insulation and the like.

In general, in a woven fabric using 100% polyester fiber, the dye cannot be sufficiently dyed into the fiber due to the high refractive index of the polyester polymer and the dense fiber structure. There is a problem that sufficient deep color cannot be obtained.

On the other hand, there is a method of increasing the apparent color development by applying a low refractive index resin such as fluorine or silicon as a deep color processing after dyeing. However, the resin is peeled off by friction or washing and partially shines. However, there is a problem in that the color development can be increased only in an auxiliary manner.

[0006] It is well known to use a wool-blended polyester spun yarn to improve the deep color, soft texture, and heat retention. However, a greige fabric woven with a wool-blended polyester spun yarn is used at 125 to 135 degrees. When dyeing at high temperature and high pressure, there is a problem that the physical strength of the wool fiber is reduced.

On the other hand, 125% of polyester fiber cotton is used.
After dyeing at ~ 135 ° C and dyeing wool fiber cotton at the stage of cotton by setting the temperature individually at 90-100 ° C,
A yarn-dyed wool-blend polyester spun fiber is made by spinning a mixture of polyester fiber cotton and wool fiber cotton. Then, the yarn is woven using the warp yarn and the weft yarn and woven and arranged, so that the post-dyeing temperature is 110 to 12
Although the physical strength can be improved and the deep color, soft texture, and heat retention can be improved as compared with those dyed at a high temperature and a high pressure of 0 ° C., there is a problem that there is almost no stretch property.

On the other hand, there is a method of imparting stretchability by using a yarn-dyed polyester spun yarn for the warp yarn and using a polyurethane fiber for the weft yarn. However, there is a disadvantage that the fabric strength is deteriorated with time due to the embrittlement which is a property inherent to the polyurethane fiber.

In order to avoid this problem, there is a woven fabric in which one weft yarn is composed of a polyurethane fiber and a polyester fiber alternately, but basically, the woven fabric has a reduced fabric strength due to embrittlement of the polyurethane fiber. The effect is small as a stop, and it does not solve the problem. Furthermore, there is a problem that the dyeing property of polyurethane fibers is lower than that of polyester fibers.

Further, by combining the first component of the two kinds of polymer raw materials with the second component having a different boiling shrinkage from the first component, a spiral crimp can be generated in the fiber. It is well known that excellent stretchability can be imparted by using a side-by-side type polyester fiber. However, when a polyester fiber having a high boiling shrinkage of a side-by-side type is dyed at a high temperature and a high pressure at 125 to 135 ° C. in a yarn state. Since the boiling shrinkage is reduced, there is a problem that sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained even if the yarn is woven in a state where the boiling shrinkage is lowered.

Further, as an essential problem, the use of polyester fibers for the weft yarns provides stretchability, but reduces the wool content of the woven fabric, resulting in poor deep color, soft texture, and low heat retention. There is a problem to do.

That is, in the prior art, deep color, stretch and stretch recovery, soft texture,
At present, it is impossible to increase the heat retention at the same time.

[0013]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a fabric which is excellent in deep color, stretchability and stretch recovery, soft texture and heat retention when used in view of the problems of the prior art. is there.

[0014]

The wool-blended polyester fabric of the present invention has the following constitution.

[0015] That is, a core-sheath composite yarn using a yarn-dyed wool-blend polyester spun yarn as a warp yarn, a polyester yarn obtained by subjecting a weft yarn to false twisting as a core yarn, and a wool-blend polyester spun yarn as a sheath yarn Weaving with yarn dyed,
It is a woven fabric characterized by being finished.

The stretch fabric of the present invention has the following constitution.

That is, the fabric is finished with a cover factor K after processing represented by the following formula of 20 to 50, has a stretch ratio in the weft direction of 10 to 20%, and has a stretch in the weft direction. A stretch woven fabric having a recovery rate of 85% or more.

K = T1 / √S1 + T2 / √S2 T1: Number of warp yarns between 1 inch T2: Number of weft yarns between 1 inch S1: Warp yarn count (English cotton count) S2: Weft count (English cotton count) Count)

[0019]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The details of the present invention will be described below.

The present invention uses a yarn-dyed wool-blend polyester spun yarn for the warp yarn. Semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate and rayon, and natural fibers such as silk, cotton, and hemp may be partially blended with the yarn.

The wool-containing polyester spun yarn of the present invention has no particular limitation on the wool content, but preferably has a wool content of 5 to 95% by weight, more preferably 10 to 80% by weight. More preferred. The count of the spun yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably 10 to 80 count, which is mainly used for clothing, and more preferably 20 to 50 count. If the number is 10 or less, the texture becomes too hard, which is not preferable.

In order to improve stretchability and stretch recoverability in the weft direction, and to provide excellent deep color, soft texture and heat retention, a polyester-processed yarn is used as a core yarn and a wool-blend polyester spinning is used. It is preferable to use a core-sheath type composite yarn in which the yarn is mixed as a sheath yarn.

Examples of the polyester processed yarn used for the core yarn include polyethylene terephthalate or a composite type polyethylene terephthalate in which a second component having a boiling shrinkage different from the boiling shrinkage of the first component of the two types of polymer raw materials is combined. Is preferably used. here,
The textured yarn refers to a textured yarn composed of multifilaments.

[0024] The fineness of the processed polyester yarn is not particularly limited, but it is 50 to 5 which is mainly used for clothing.
00 decitex is preferred, and 50 to 3
00 decitex is more preferred.

If it is more than 500 dtex, the texture may become hard, which is not preferable. If it is less than 50 dtex, the strength may be weak, which is not preferable.

As a method for false-twisting such a processed yarn, for example, a method for performing false-twisting at a low yarn speed of 50 to 150 m / m using a pin false-twisting machine can be adopted. However, it may be appropriately adopted according to the properties such as the elongation at break and the melting point of the thread. Generally, it can be processed under the same conditions as normal false twisting at a heater temperature of 200 to 220 degrees in the heating zone.

In the woven fabric of the present invention, 10 in the weft direction.
In order to obtain a stretch ratio of ２０20%, it is preferable that the cover factor K after processing represented by the following formula is finished in the range of 20 to 50, and more preferably 30 to 40.

K = T1 / √S1 + T2 / √S2 T1: The number of warp yarns in one inch T2: The number of weft yarns in one inch S1: warp yarn count S2: weft yarn count If the stretch ratio is 10% or less, the body Since the user may feel a feeling of oppression to the movement, the stretch ratio may be poor, which is not preferable. If the stretch ratio is 20% or more, the strength may be low and manufacturing may be difficult, which is not preferable. Further, if the cover factor after finishing is 20 or less, the texture is coarse, and the strength may be weak, which may be undesirable,
If it is more than 50, the texture becomes hard and may not be preferable.

In the stretch recovery, JI
It is the elongation recovery rate determined by S, and is preferably 85% or more, since wrinkles hardly occur. If it is less than 85%, a knee dropout or the like may occur, which is not preferable.

Examples of the structure of such a woven fabric include Cassidos, Cashmere, Flat, Twill, Satin, Amundsen, and double woven fabric, and are not particularly limited. Change organization,
And cashmere tissue are preferred.

In the use of clothing, it is used for student clothes, women's clothes, men's clothes, Japanese clothing, and the like, and is particularly preferably used for student clothes woven with a twill structure and a cashmere structure.

[0032]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below more specifically with reference to examples.

The measured values in the examples and comparative examples were obtained by the following methods. Evaluation method (black coloring property) The finished product of the woven fabric is measured for lightness: L value using a color difference meter (manufactured by Suga Test Instruments Co., Ltd.). The smaller the numerical value, the better the black color development. Usually, if there is a difference of 0.5 or more in L value, there is a dominant difference even when visually observed. (Stretch property and stretch recovery property) The stretch rate (elongation rate) is in accordance with JIS L1096B method, and the stretch recovery rate (elongation recovery rate) is JIS 1096B-1.
Obey the law. The higher the value, the better. EXAMPLES (Yarn dyed spun yarn) Wool fibers are cotton-like and dyed dark blue at 95 ° C. using a gold-containing dye, and polyester fibers are cotton-like and dyed dark blue at 130 ° C. under high temperature and pressure using a disperse dye.
The obtained two kinds of floc were blended so that the wool / polyester ratio (weight ratio) = 60/40 to obtain a wool-blend polyester spun yarn having a count of 52, and the number of twists was 120.
By twisting the yarns so that the number of turns becomes 1 / m, a twin yarn spun yarn having a count of 52 is obtained. (Core-sheath composite yarn) Using a pin false twisting machine, yarn speed 70 m /
m, 167 subjected to false twisting at a heater temperature of 210 ° C.
The core-sheath type composite yarn of the decitex-48 filament polyester was used as the core yarn, and the wool-blended polyester spun yarn was used as the sheath yarn to obtain the 26th core-sheath composite yarn. A yarn-dyed core-sheath type composite yarn is obtained. (Weaving) Using a wool-blend polyester spun yarn of 52 count double yarn as warp yarn, a weft yarn of 26 core-sheath type composite yarn, a warp warp yarn density of 67 yarns / inch, a weft yarn density of 6
The woven fabric was obtained by weaving at a rate of 6 yarns / inch into a 2/2 twill structure. (Arrangement processing) The greige machine was finished in the order of scouring, scabbing, and setting, and finished so that the warp yarn density was 78 yarns / inch and the weft yarn density was 70 yarns / inch. The finished cover factor was 29.0. Comparative Example 1 The warp yarn and the weft yarn were woven in accordance with the Examples except that a wool-blend polyester spun yarn not dyed was used, and the greige was dyed at 120 ° C.
Finished in the same manner as in Example 1. Comparative Example 2 Weaving was carried out in the same manner as in Example except that a wool-blend polyester spun yarn not dyed into a warp yarn was used and a core-sheath type composite yarn not dyed into a weft yarn was used. Dyeing was carried out at 120 ° C. using a disperse dye. Evaluation Results In the examples, the L value is 12.3, the deep color development is high, the stretch ratio is 15%, the stretchability is high, the stretch recovery ratio is 91%, the softness is high and the heat retention is high. An excellent 2/2 twill texture fabric was obtained.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, the L value was 14.2, the deep color was poor, and the stretch ratio was 1%, which was very low.

In Comparative Example 2, the stretch ratio was 14%.
Although it was high, the L value was 14.6, and the fabric was poor in deep color.

[0036]

According to the present invention, the deep color is extremely high,
It is possible to provide a fabric having excellent stretchability and stretch recoverability, soft texture, and heat retention.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) A41D 31/00 503 A41D 31/00 503D 503G F-term (Reference) 4L048 AA11 AA21 AA28 AB05 AB07 AB18 AB21 AC07 BA01 BA02 CA03 CA15 DA02

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A core-sheath composite yarn using a pre-dyed wool-blended polyester spun yarn as a warp yarn, a polyester yarn obtained by false twisting a weft yarn as a core yarn, and a wool-blended polyester spun yarn as a sheath yarn. A woven fabric, which is woven and finished using yarn-dyed. 2. A cover factor K after processing represented by the following formula:
Stretched fabric having a stretch ratio in the weft direction of 10 to 20% and a stretch recovery ratio in the weft direction of 85% or more. . K = T1 / √S1 + T2 / √S2 T1: Number of warp yarns between 1 inch T2: Number of weft yarns between 1 inch S1: Warp yarn count (English cotton count) S2: Weft count (English cotton count)