JP2002054060A - Method for producing elastic warp knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric, by which the elastic warp knitted fabric knitted with elastic yarns having various powers, not causing a puckering phenomenon in a boundary portion between a main knitted portion and a power-reinforced knitted portion, and having good knitted fabric productivity is obtained. SOLUTION: This method for producing the elastic warp knitted fabric in which elastic yarns are knitted and which has power-changed portions knitted adjacently to the main knitted portion and the powerreinforced knitted portions, characterized by using and knitting such elastic yarns that the warp draft rates of the elastic yarns in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portions are smaller than the warp draft rate of the elastic yarns in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portions.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric having a varying power.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art An elastic warp knitted fabric in which an elastic yarn is combined with an inelastic yarn having a ground structure is often used for clothes such as innerwear such as foundations, sports clothing, and outerwear, and is usually used for tricot knitting machines and Russell knitting machines. Knit an elastic warp knitted fabric using the entire width. Therefore, to make a garment such as a foundation from an elastic warp knitted fabric, a plurality of elastic warp knitted fabric pieces designed according to the shape of the target garment are cut from an elastic warp knitted fabric having a width of 1 m or more. And then sewing the plurality of elastic warp knitted fabric pieces to obtain a garment product.

[0003] In addition, a tape-like material having strong fastening power has been sewn to the main knitted fabric at the hem portion and waist portion of the garment. The knitted fabric with a partially raised portion is knitted, and the knitted fabric is used in the horizontal direction, and the parts with higher tightening power than the main knitted fabric are marked and sewn so as to be the hem and waist. .

Conventionally, in order to knit a knitted fabric in which such knitted fabric portions having different powers are adjacent to each other, the thickness of the elastic yarn for knitting the main knitted fabric portion and the elastic yarn of the power-enhanced knitted fabric portion are required. Or knitting multiple elastic yarns at the same time by adding to the elastic yarns of the main knitted fabric part, but in all cases, the power-enhanced knitted fabric part uses a beam of elastic yarn prepared separately from the main knitted fabric part. 2. Description of the Related Art Knitting is performed by supplying an elastic yarn and enlarging a runner in that portion.

[0005] When knitting a knitted fabric having a power change portion by such a method, when the warp of the elastic yarn is performed, both the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion and the main knitted fabric portion are warped at the same draft rate. If the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion and the main knitted fabric portion are knitted by the same runner, puckering is likely to occur at the boundary between the main knitted fabric portion and the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion. In order to prevent this, a method of knitting by enlarging the runner of the power-enhanced knitted fabric part has been required.

Also, particularly in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion, it is generally practiced to increase the thickness of the elastic yarn. In this case, too, if the warp is performed at the same draft rate as the main knitted fabric portion, ,
Due to the large tightening force of the elastic yarn in the warped beam, the distortion of the elastic yarn itself also increases, causing problems such as yarn breakage during knitting and unstable dimensions. As described above, conventionally, in the manufacture of a knitted fabric having a power change, puckering is likely to occur, and the knitting property is not very good.
There were problems such as yarn breakage during knitting.

[0007]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, in the production of a knitted fabric with knitted elastic yarns, the puckering does not occur at the boundary between the main knitted fabric and the power-enhanced knitted fabric. It is another object of the present invention to provide a method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric having good knitting properties.

[0008]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have studied to solve the above problems, and as a result, when knitting an elastic yarn to knit a warp knitted fabric having a power change, a power-reinforced knitted fabric portion The present inventors have found that the object of the present invention can be achieved by knitting using an elastic yarn warped at a specific draft rate as the elastic yarn of the above, and arrived at the present invention.

That is, the present invention relates to a power-reinforced knitted fabric having an elastic warp knitted fabric in which an elastic yarn is knitted in a knitted fabric and a main knitted fabric and a power-reinforced knitted fabric are knitted adjacent to each other. And knitting using an elastic yarn whose warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn is smaller than the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn of the main knitted fabric portion.

[0010] The elastic warp knitted fabric referred to in the present invention is a knitted fabric having different powers adjacent to each other in the weft (width) direction of the knitted fabric. May be used, or the knitted fabric may change obliquely. The power difference between the main knitted fabric and the power-enhanced knitted fabric is arbitrary, and may be appropriately selected depending on the product to be manufactured.

In the present invention, as the elastic yarn, polyurethane-based or polyetherester-based elastic yarns can be used, and ordinary polyurethane-based elastic yarns, for example, those obtained by dry spinning or melt spinning, can be used. The spinning method is not particularly limited. Elongation at break is 400% to 100%
It is preferably 0% and has excellent stretchability, and does not impair stretchability at a normal processing temperature of about 180 ° C. in the pre-setting step at the time of dyeing. In addition, the elastic yarn has antibacterial properties, moisture absorption, water absorption, etc. Elastic yarn having the above-mentioned functionality can also be used.
Although the thickness of the elastic yarn is not particularly limited, it is usually 20
~ 1000dtex, preferably 30 ~ 500dtex
In this case, a stable knitted fabric is obtained, and a moderate knitted fabric elasticity is obtained.

[0012] In these cases, 44d in one reed
A method of threading two to three thin elastic yarns together to make them seem thicker, or a thin elastic yarn to two to four reeds for knitting. A method in which a plurality of elastic yarns are made to act on the needles of the same knitting machine, knitted with the same structure, and the resulting knitted fabric can have the same effect as the case of using thick elastic yarns as a result. Even when such a thin elastic yarn is combined, the object can be achieved by performing warping of the elastic yarn according to the production method of the present invention. That is, it is necessary to warp the warp draft ratio of the combined elastic yarn used for the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion smaller than that used for the main knitted fabric portion.

In the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, there is no particular limitation on the non-elastic yarn to be combined with the elastic yarn, and synthetic fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyamide, polytrimethylene terephthalate, and acrylic,
Fibers such as cotton, wool, and hemp can be used. In particular, if synthetic fibers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyamide, and polytrimethylene terephthalate are used, a knitted fabric with good dimensional stability can be obtained.To impart water absorption or moisture absorption, use cotton, cupra, rayon, etc. do it. Further, two or more kinds of yarns can be mixed and used by blending, blending, twisting, or knitting on a knitting machine. The yarn form to be used is also arbitrary, and a filament yarn, a spun yarn, or a triangular or W-shaped irregular cross-section yarn can be used.

The thickness of these inelastic yarns is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to use 20 to 170 dtex yarns, more preferably 30 to 110 dtex yarns. In order to improve the strength, it is preferable to use as thick a thread as possible. In the present invention, as the knitting structure of the elastic warp knitted fabric, any structure into which the elastic yarn is inserted or looped is effective, and a 6-course satin net, 6
For example, a knitted fabric in which one basic yarn is inserted, such as coarse tulle, or two elastic yarns called so-called twin power or triskin are inserted. Also, as a structure in which the elastic yarn is looped, half,
An organization generally called a two-way such as satin and triconet can be used.

The elastic warp knitted fabric in the present invention is a knitted fabric having a power changing portion. The most common method of power change is to change the thickness of the elastic yarn between the main knitted fabric portion and the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion. Place the thread. For example, in a 6-course satin net, the elastic yarn of the main knitted fabric portion is 155 dtex, and the elastic yarn of the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion is 470 dtex.

In the present invention, the warp draft of the elastic yarn is such that the main knitted fabric portion is warped while elongating the elastic yarn at a draft ratio of 80 to 100%, and the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn of the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion is increased. Is made smaller than the warping draft rate of the main knitted fabric portion. Specifically, the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion may be less than 100% of the draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the main knitted fabric portion. However, if the warp draft ratios of the elastic yarns in the main knitted fabric portion and the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion are too close, yarn breakage and puckering are likely to occur during knitting, If the warping draft ratios are too far apart, for example, more than 50%, the elastic yarns tend to come together during knitting and yarn breakage and the like tend to increase.

Therefore, it is preferable that the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion is 50 to 95% of the draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the main knitted fabric portion. For example, when the warp draft ratio of the main knitted fabric portion is 80%, it is preferable to set the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn of the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion to 40 to 76% since the object of the present invention is sufficiently achieved. . In other words, the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion may be set in comparison with the warp draft ratio of the elastic yarn in the main knitted fabric portion, regardless of the thickness of the elastic yarn. The same applies when a plurality of elastic yarns are used in combination without changing the thickness of the elastic yarns used for the knitted fabric portion.

In the method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric according to the present invention, the warp draft rate of the elastic yarn in the power reinforced knitted fabric portion is made smaller than that in the main knitted fabric portion. If the knitted fabric part has the same structure, it can be knitted with the same runner. Of course, knitting can be performed with a runner smaller than the main knitted fabric portion, and in this case, the power of the knitted fabric can be further increased.

In the present invention, the elastic warp knitted fabric having the power changing portion has a drawn yarn portion, a power-reinforced knitted fabric portion is arranged adjacent to the drawn yarn portion, knitted, and after the dyeing finish, the drawn yarn is knitted. If you pull out the thread of the part, divide it into several parts in the warp direction, make it the hem part of the power strengthening knitted fabric part adjacent to the divided pulling thread, for example, place it on the bottom of the girdle and sew the product A girdle whose hem is not loosened by sewing can be manufactured.

In the present invention, the elastic warp knitted fabric can be knitted by a tricot knitting machine or a Russell knitting machine, and the gauge of the knitting machine is not particularly limited. For example, a knitting machine of 16 to 40 gauge / 2.54 cm is used. Can be arbitrarily selected and used depending on the thickness of the yarn to be used.

[0021]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to only examples. The evaluation was performed by the following method. (1) Knitting performance It was expressed by the number of broken elastic yarns when knitting 50 m.

(2) Puckering The puckering of the portion where the power is changing is as follows.
It was evaluated on a scale. Grade 5: No puckering. Grade 4: Almost no puckering. Grade 3: There is some puckering, but there is no problem.

Level 2: Puckering occurs and is a problematic level. Grade 1: Puckering is serious and is a problem. [Example 1] 56G / 5.08cm, device width 330c
m (130 inch) Russell knitting machine, nylon 6 (hereinafter referred to as nylon) 56 dtex / 34f,
Polyurethane elastic fiber (Loica; Asahi Kasei Corporation)
310dtex for the main knitted fabric portion and 470dtex for the power-enhanced knitted fabric portion. When knitting a 6-course satin net on an on-machine course of 80 courses / 2.54cm, polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as ester) is used as a thread for knitting. 84dtex / 24f)
Nylon 33dtex / 24f was used as an ear thread of the thread removing portion.

The warping draft rate of the loica 310dtex of the main knitted fabric portion is 100%, and the Loica 470 of the power enhanced knitted fabric portion is
The warp draft rate of dtex is 80%, and in order to enable the finished knitted fabric (total width of 190 cm) to be divided into 6 parts, the power-enhanced knitted fabric portion is set to 10c adjacent to the five drawn yarn portions.
The width of the main knitted fabric adjacent to the power-enhanced knitted fabric portion was set to 20 cm, and the position of the thread removing portion was determined.

Table 1 shows the yarn arrangement, the warping draft ratio, and the runner length.

[0026]

[Table 1]

The knitted fabric obtained under these knitting conditions is refined,
After presetting at 190 ° C. for 45 seconds, staining was performed with a jet dyeing machine. Thereafter, a finishing set was performed to produce an elastic warp knitted fabric. The obtained elastic warp knitted fabric has a basis weight of 21
At 0 g / m ² , a high-quality knitted fabric without puckering was obtained. The knitted fabric was divided into 6 pieces with a thread, and girdles were sewn and worn. As a result, a comfortable girdle with no loose hem was obtained. Table 2 shows the number of thread breaks during knitting and the puckering state of the power changing section.

[Examples 2 and 3, Comparative Examples 1 and 2]
In the above, warping and knitting were performed in the same manner except that the warping draft rate of Loika was changed to obtain an elastic warp knitted fabric. Table 2 shows the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

[0029]

[Table 2]

From Table 2, it can be seen that the elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention is a high-quality knitted fabric which is free from yarn breakage during knitting and puckering of the finished knitted fabric, and is most suitable for foundation applications. It turns out that it is. [Example 4] 2 with a device width of 330 cm (130 inches)
Using a 4 reed tricot knitting machine of 8G / 2.54cm,
A soft girdle with a soft telescopic power was manufactured.

Each reed and thread type of the tricot knitting machine are as follows. Front reed: Nylon 33 dtex / 10f First middle reed: Polyurethane elastic yarn (Loica; manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 44 dtex was warped at a draft rate of 70%. This is used for the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion with the second elastic yarn.

Second middle reed: 155 dtex polyurethane elastic yarn (Roica; manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) was warped at a draft rate of 70%, and the elastic yarn was passed through one reed.
This is the third elastic yarn used for the power-reinforced knitted fabric. Back reed: A polyurethane elastic yarn (Roica; manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 44 dtex was warped at a draft rate of 80%. The first elastic yarn is used for both the main knitted fabric portion and the power-reinforced knitted fabric portion.

Table 3 shows the parts of the soft girdle, the knitting structure, and the use of the threads when sewing the soft girdle using the elastic warp knitted fabric in the transverse direction. FIG. 1 shows the threading method at that time. FIG. 1 is an image diagram of the number of yarns. The left and right body parts knit an elastic warp knitted fabric with a half structure using 800 front yarns and 800 back yarns. Chain knitting is performed with the first middle yarn in addition to the used yarn of the body portion, and the knitted fabric is made into a stable elastic warp knitted fabric without curl. In this case, 100 yarns were used as the hem portion. In the drawn thread portion, each of the front thread, the back thread, and the first elastic thread is thread-cut so as not to be knitted by the wales of the drawn thread portion.

The second middle yarn is an insertion structure of an elastic yarn,
In the wale of the removed thread portion, one second elastic yarn of the removed thread portion is removed in such a manner that the second elastic yarn of the removed thread portion is only hooked on the wale needle of the removed thread portion by swinging left and right alternately one by one. An 84 dtex / 36f cheese yarn of ester 84dtex / 36f is knitted from the rear of the knitting machine through the first middle reed along the wales of the drawn yarn portion, and the drawn yarn wale is used for knitting of the second elastic yarn. Chain knitting, which is a thread, is entangled and knitted.

From the left end, a body portion, a hem portion, a removed thread wale, a hem portion, a body portion, a removed thread wale, a body portion, a hem portion, a removed thread wale, and a hem portion can be divided from the left end. ,
In the order of the body part, each part was arranged with the same number of yarns. However, only the part of the central thread wale 1cm
Thread arrangement and texture were the same as the width between the skirts. As a result of knitting under these knitting conditions, no thread breakage occurred despite high-speed knitting, and an elastic warp knitted fabric was obtained with high productivity.

The obtained knitted fabric was refined and preset at 190 ° C. for 45 seconds. After pre-setting, dyeing was performed at 125 ° C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine. Then, at 170 ° C 4
The finishing set was performed in 5 seconds to produce an elastic warp knitted fabric.
The obtained elastic warp knitted fabric can be divided into four parts, and the knitted fabric having a width of 45 cm can be obtained after the thread is removed. The knitted fabric has no puckering at the power switching portion. By sewing this knitted fabric in a horizontal direction,
A very high-quality soft girdle with no loose bottom was obtained.

[0037]

[Table 3]

[0038]

According to the method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric of the present invention, the finished knitted fabric is free from puckering and has a very high quality elastic warp knitted fabric without any elastic yarn breakage during knitting. is there.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram showing an example of a yarn arrangement on a knitting machine when an elastic warp knitted fabric is manufactured by the manufacturing method of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

a ... body part b ... hem c ... removed thread wale F ... front reed M1 ... 1st middle reed M2 ... 2nd middle reed B ... back reed ○ mark ... thread passing through each reed ● mark ... removed thread (knitting) (Supplied from outside the machine with the cheese to the threaded part of M1)

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. An elastic warp knitted fabric having a power change portion in which an elastic yarn is knitted in a knitted fabric and a main knitted fabric and a power enhanced knitted fabric are knitted adjacent to each other. A method for producing an elastic warp knitted fabric, comprising knitting using an elastic yarn whose warping draft is smaller than the warping draft of an elastic yarn in a main knitted fabric portion.