JP2002004149A - Woven fabric having rugged surface and method of producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide woven fabrics which can be woven with a conventional high-speed loom and have three-dimensional uneven pattern on both front and back surfaces by using conjugated yarns for weft which can develop coil-shaped crimps by hot water treatment without applying special techniques of dyeing and finishing. SOLUTION: The multifilament yarn of longitudinally side-by-side conjugated and crimpable filaments of two kinds of polyester polymers one of which is mainly composed of poly(trimethylene terephthalate) are used as weft to produce the objective woven fabrics which characteristically develop three-dimensional uneven pattern on both of the front and back surfaces by crimp manifestation on the conjugated multifilament yarn.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a woven fabric in which a conjugate yarn having a high crimp developing ability is arranged on a weft, and a jacquard-like uneven pattern is expressed on the woven fabric surface at a low cost by utilizing the shrinkage and characteristics of the weft. The present invention relates to the manufacturing method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a method of expressing a pattern on a woven fabric surface, a complicated pattern is obtained by mechanically operating an opening device using a special loom (tappet, dobby, jacquard loom, etc.). It is common to express Also,
From the dyeing process side, it is used according to the purpose, fabric type, end use, etc. such as typical printing process, embossing process, opal process. Above all, embossing is widely used as a method of adding a satin or a willow-like pattern to the front and back of the fabric. In particular, synthetic fibers have thermoplastic characteristics, and can be said to be a technology utilizing these characteristics.

[0003] However, the above-mentioned special loom has a limitation in high-speed operation, and inevitably has lower productivity than WJL and AJL looms. Although the technology is established and the quality is stable, it is unavoidable that the cost is increased as compared with the ordinary dyeing process.
In addition, there are disadvantages such as being restricted from the general purpose aspect of the applied material.

[0004] On the other hand, in recent years, it has become common to add an appropriate stretch property to a cloth in view of needs for wearing comfort of clothes. From this point of view, it is difficult at present to obtain the required stretchability with the above-mentioned conventional technology.

[0005] Further, conventionally, a willow woven fabric using a strong twist (S or Z direction) for the weft is well known as a front-back uneven pattern, but the uneven pattern has a uniform vertical stripe pattern, and jacquard. Expression of the key pattern was difficult. Furthermore, pleating is a post-processing technique for imparting a three-dimensional and geometrical unevenness to the woven or knitted fabric. The pleating process can produce a fabric having a good stretch property, but the increase in cost due to the pleating process is an obstacle.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present inventors have departed from the above-mentioned conventional technical idea, and have made intensive studies to solve the problems of the above-mentioned prior art. As a result, the present inventors have arrived at the present invention.

[0007] An object of the present invention is to use a conventional high-speed loom, and to use a conjugate yarn having a high coil-form crimp developing ability on the weft and to perform a hot water treatment, thereby developing a special technique of dyeing. It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric having a three-dimensional, uniform and high-quality uneven pattern on the front and back of the woven fabric without adding, and a method of manufacturing the woven fabric at low cost.

[0008]

The present invention employs the following configuration to achieve the above object. That is, (1) a multifilament yarn of a conjugate fiber having a crimp developing ability in which different polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction. A woven fabric characterized by having a three-dimensional uneven pattern on the front and back surfaces of the woven fabric due to the expression of crimp of a multifilament yarn of the conjugate fiber.

(2) The side-by-side type conjugate fiber is characterized in that the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is 110 ° C. or more and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more. The woven fabric according to 1).

(3) The three-dimensional uneven pattern is such that the convex portion on the fabric surface forms a concave portion when viewed from the back surface of the fabric, and the concave portion on the fabric surface forms a convex portion when viewed from the back surface of the fabric. The woven fabric according to any one of the above (1) and (2).

(4) The woven fabric according to any one of (1) to (3), having a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the weft direction.

(5) A multifilament of a composite fiber having a crimp developing ability in which different polyester polymers, each of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction. The fabric using the yarn as the weft is subjected to a hot water treatment of 80 ° C. or more, and a random three-dimensional uneven pattern in the warp direction is expressed on the front and back of the fabric by a coiling crimping force in the weft direction. Fabrication method.

[0013]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention is to express a jacquard-like uneven pattern, in which a geometric pattern is randomly and three-dimensionally formed in a vertical direction, on the front and back of a fabric.

Therefore, in the present invention, a conjugate yarn containing, as one component, a polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) polymer having a high ability to develop a coiled crimp by hot water treatment is used as a weft of a woven fabric. Use
After hot water treatment, a jacquard-like uneven pattern is developed on the front and back of the fabric, and the form and stretchability of the fabric are maintained.

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a woven fabric surface showing an example of the fiber shape on the woven fabric surface of the jacquard-like uneven pattern according to the present invention.

In FIG. 1, the a portion on the fabric surface forms a convex portion and the b portion forms a concave portion. Conversely, when viewed from the back surface of the fabric, the a portion forms a concave portion and the b portion forms a convex portion. FIG. 2 is a model diagram showing an example of an uneven state on the front and back of a woven fabric having a horizontal cross section. Such a clear form is most remarkable in a state substantially after the hydrothermal treatment, and becomes gradually flat when stretched in the lateral direction, and the effect as a pattern remains, but the sense of unevenness disappears. It is in. In addition, the pattern, size, height of the unevenness of the uneven pattern are determined based on the fabric structure, density, type of warp (raw yarn, composite yarn, presence or absence of twisted yarn, size of shrinkage characteristics, etc.), and characteristics of the conjugate yarn (coiled winding). (Development of shrinkage, hot water shrinkage, etc.), and can be selected over a wide range in consideration of the textured surface, depending on the intended use.

The condition for the formation of the concavo-convex pattern is to use a PTT conjugate yarn as the weft. This is presumed to be due to the fact that the warp yarns exhibit an irregular uplift phenomenon due to the shrinkage of the fabric due to the appearance of the coiled high crimp of the PTT conjugate yarn, thereby forming a three-dimensional, jacquard-like uneven pattern on the front and back of the fabric. Is done. On the other hand, the conventional Yang willow-like woven fabric partially raises the warp by using the untwisting torque of the strong twist yarn used for the weft, and develops a feeling of unevenness. As described above, the force of the weft that creates unevenness on the surface of the woven fabric is a large difference in that the present invention is a manifestation of a coil-shaped crimp, whereas the Yangyan woven fabric is an untwisting torque of a strongly twisted yarn.

Next, the PTT conjugate yarn used for the weft of the present invention is, for example, a side-by-side type of at least two-component polyester polymer, one of which has a different heat shrinkage property and is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate. Use PTT conjugated yarn. This PTT conjugate yarn has a self-crimping and torque developing ability due to a difference in heat shrinkage characteristics. In other words, the crimpable conjugate yarn made of the polyester of the present invention has a self-crimping power due to a difference in heat shrinkage properties, has this latent crimping power, and is subjected to a boiling water treatment, It develops crimp and torque.

Here, PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include, for example, isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimeric acid, sebacic acid,
-Dicarboxylic acids such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol, but are not limited thereto. . If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments and the like as antioxidants may be added.

The low-shrinkage component (low-viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester having good interfacial adhesion to PTT, which is a high-shrinkage component, and a stable spinning property. However, in view of mechanical properties, chemical properties and raw material prices, polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having a fiber forming ability is preferable.

The composite ratio of the two components is determined in terms of the spinning properties and the dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction.
Low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) is preferable, and 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type conjugate fiber used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobal cross section, a flat cross section, a Dharma cross section, an X cross section, or any other irregular cross section. From the balance between expression and texture, a semicircular side-by-side with a round cross section, a hollow side-by-side for lightweight and heat retention, and a triangular-section side-by-side for dry texture are preferably used.

The fineness of the single yarn is 1.1 to 10 dtex.
And more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex. When the content is 1.1 dtex or more, the effect of the stretching property by crimping can be obtained, and when the content is 10 dtex or less, the texture can be suppressed.

Further, in order to overcome the cloth restraining force and to exhibit the coil crimp as described above, it is preferable that the side-by-side type conjugate fiber has a high shrinkage stress. In order to enhance the crimp development in the heat treatment step of the fabric, the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is 110 ° C. or more, and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25
It is preferably at least cN / dtex, more preferably the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is at least 0.28 cN / dtex,
More preferably, it is 0.30 cN / dtex or more.

The shrinkage stress was measured with a thermal stress meter manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. at a heating rate of 150 ° C./min. The sample was a loop of 10 cm × 2, and the initial tension was fineness (dtex = decitex) × 0.9 × (1/1).
30) Measured as gf.

The PTT conjugate yarn used for the weft of the present invention preferably has a substantially non-torque yarn form. In other words, it is preferable to use the PTT conjugate yarn without performing twisting. This is because, by applying the real twist, the crimping ability of the original yarn (or the original yarn) is reduced, that is, the fabric shrinkage in the weft direction is reduced, and the unevenness of the fabric front and back after the hot water treatment is exhibited. This is because it becomes a grain-shaped direction and becomes far from the jacquard-like uneven pattern.

The feature of the woven fabric of the present invention is that it preferably has a jacquard-like uneven pattern on both sides of the woven fabric and has a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the weft direction. If the stretch ratio in the horizontal direction is less than 5%, the elasticity at the time of wearing is insufficient, and the wearing comfort is impaired, which is not preferable. It is more preferably at least 10%. The setting of the width ratio in the horizontal direction in the intermediate set and the finishing set of the dyeing process is an important factor for the horizontal stretch ratio. The stretch rate (%) is determined by the following method.

Stretch rate (%) = {(L1-L) / L} × 100 where L: gripping distance (mm) L1: gripping distance when stretched to 1.8 kg (mm) The manufacturing method of the invention will be described.

The warp constituting the woven fabric includes natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, acrylic and polypropylene, and semi-compatible fibers such as rayon and triacetate. There is no particular limitation on filaments, processed yarns, raw yarns, twisted yarns thereof, or those in a composite form such as false twist, mixed fiber, and ply twist. It can be selected appropriately according to the needs of the market. Further, the fineness of the warp is not particularly limited, and for example, an uneven pattern can be expressed from a thin fabric using a 22 dtex monofilament to a thick fabric using a 300 dtex processed yarn.

The expression of the jacquard pattern on the front and back of the fabric has a deep relationship with the fabric structure, warp density, and warp shrinkage characteristics. The fabric structure is preferably a structure in which contraction in the horizontal direction due to hot water treatment is likely to occur, in other words, a structure in which the number of fabric intersection points is reduced. Specifically, the twill and the satin structure have more weft floating than the flat structure. There is no problem if the warp density is within a normal setting range. As for the warp shrinkage characteristics, the smaller the boiling water shrinkage ratio, the smaller the effect on the shrinkage behavior of the weft, and a good feeling of unevenness can be obtained. Conversely, if the boiling water shrinkage ratio is large, the shrinkage of the weft yarn is restricted, and the target unevenness cannot be obtained. In that sense, the boiling water shrinkage of the warp is preferably 20% or less, more preferably 15% or less.

The weaving machine to be used is selected in accordance with the warp yarn type, the fabric standard and the like, and is not affected by the conjugate yarn used for the weft of the present invention. That is, it can be used from high-speed looms such as WJL and AJL to low-speed looms of fly looms.

Next, the hot water treatment of the fabric is preferably a relaxing method in which the conjugate yarn of the weft is sufficiently developed to have a coiled crimp. From that point of view, it is preferable to perform processing by liquid flow relaxation M / C designed so that tension is not applied to the warp. In addition, the relaxing hot water treatment temperature is set at a value not lower than the crimping of the conjugated coiled yarn is sufficiently promoted.
0 ° C. or higher is preferred. When the temperature is lower than 80 ° C., crimping is insufficient, and the transverse shrinkage is not sufficiently exhibited, so that a satisfactory uneven feeling cannot be obtained. In addition, the fabric can be relaxed at 40 ° C.
It is preferable to start with a low temperature and gradually raise the temperature to 80 ° C. or higher, and at the same time, apply an external force to the fabric to promote shrinkage.

After the relaxation, the tentering rate is set in a range that satisfies a suitable stretch property and a feeling of unevenness on the surface.
Perform heat setting at 20 ° C or higher. When the temperature is lower than 120 ° C., there is a problem that the setting property of the uneven pattern is insufficient and the product shrinkage, especially the shrinkage during washing and dry heat shrinkage, exceeds the reference range. Preferably, it is 130 ° C. or higher, more preferably 150 ° C. or higher. Next, the fabric is subjected to an alkali treatment as needed, and then dyed and finished to give a finished product.

[0034]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments.

(Example 1) Polyester multifilament yarn 83dtex-24 filament S15 for warp
Using 0 T / m, warp density of 3/1 twill design 92 yarns /
It was set to 2.54 cm. PTT conjugated multi-yarn of weft is homo-PTT with intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.18
And homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 are separately melted and discharged at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C. from a 12-hole composite spinneret at a composite ratio (% by weight) of 50:50, and a spinning speed of 1400 m / min. Thus, a side-by-side composite undrawn yarn of 165 dtex and 12 filaments was obtained. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine, the film is stretched at a hot roll temperature of 85 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 145 ° C., and a draw ratio of 3.0 times to 55 dtex and 12 filaments (single fiber fineness: 4.6).
dtex). Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability, and no yarn breakage occurred.

The obtained side-by-side type conjugate fiber has a maximum shrinkage stress temperature of 130 ° C. and a maximum shrinkage stress value of 0.33 cN / dtex. showed that. 55dtex obtained
The drawn yarn of -12f is aligned with a loom and 110dtex-
The yarn was supplied at 24f, the weft density was set to 105 yarns / 2.54 cm, and the yarn was woven by an AJL loom.

The obtained green fabric was dyed as follows.
That is, the greige was put into 40 ° C., and subjected to relaxing hot water treatment at 110 ° C. by a liquid flow relaxing method. At this time, the width shrinkage ratio (green machine-after relaxing / green machine) was 68%, and the unevenness of the fabric surface was good.

Next, intermediate heat setting was performed by a pin tenter method at a dry heat of 190 ° C. and a tentering rate (set width−relaxation width / relaxation width) of 94%, the alkali was reduced by 10%, and dyeing was performed at 130 ° C. Finish setting by pin tenter method at 160 ° C., dry heat, width, finish density 142 × 114
Book / 2.54 cm product. The finished product had an unprecedented surface feeling, having a jacquard pattern on the front and back of the fabric and a three-dimensional unevenness. Further, the stretch ratio in the horizontal direction of the woven fabric was 45%, and the woven fabric was very rich in stretchability, and was suitable for casual use such as pants and blouses.

(Examples 2 and 3) Using the same warp and weft as in Example 1, Example 2 had a 2/2 twill structure and a green density of 92 × 100 yarns / 2.54 cm. The tissue was flattened, woven at a density of 100 × 74 yarns / 2.54 cm, and subjected to the same dyeing method and process as in Example 1 to obtain a product. The obtained woven fabric of Example 2 had a jacquard-like uneven pattern, and became a woven fabric having a stretch ratio of 38%. Further, in Example 3, the surface feeling was different from the twill structure of Examples 1 and 2 in a jacquard pattern, but the feeling of unevenness was slightly shallow. In addition, the stretch ratio in the horizontal direction was 22%. (Examples 4 and 5) Using the same design and weft as in Example 1, Example 4 uses ordinary DTY thick polyester processed yarn 167 / 2dtex-48 filament as the warp and S3 as the warp.
A thread with a sweet twist of 00 T / m is arranged, and the density of greige is 45
Weave in the standard of 50 × 2.54 cm. Further, in Example 5, a monofilament yarn of polyester 22 dtex-1 was arranged on the warp yarn, and the density was 145 × 130 / 2.5.
Weaved with a standard of 4 cm. Next, the greige fabrics of Examples 4 and 5 were subjected to the same dyeing method and process as in Example 1 to obtain products.

The obtained product of Example 4 was very rich in texture, had a jacquard-like uneven pattern, and had a stretch ratio of 4
The fabric was rich in 0%. Further, the product of Example 5 was very thin, light and had a jacquard-like uneven pattern, and was a woven fabric rich in stretch rate of 65%, which was suitable as a layer of casual wear for the young layer.

(Comparative Example 1) Using the warp and texture of Example 1, a normal polyester drawn yarn 167 dtex-
S1600T as 48-filament yarn with additional twist
/ M, and woven at a density of 92 × 100 / 2.54 cm. The obtained woven fabric was processed into a product by the usual dyeing method and process of polyester Yangyan woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric exhibited the conventional Yang-yu-like surface feeling, that is, the narrow unevenness of the vertical stripes, which was different from the unevenness having the jacquard-like pattern which is a feature of the present invention. In addition, the stretch ratio in the transverse direction was as small as 3.5%, and the functionality was poor.

Comparative Examples 2 and 3 The warp and texture of Example 1 were used.
1dtex-48 filaments were provided, woven according to the same standard as in Example 1, and processed by the same dyeing method and process as in Example 1 to obtain a product. The obtained product was a woven fabric having no unevenness on the woven fabric surface and having no stretch property.

Further, in Comparative Example 3, weft yarn 111 dtex-24 filament of 1 heater polyester twisted yarn was arranged on the weft, woven in the same standard as in Example 1, and dyed in the same manner as in Example 1. Processed into a product. The obtained product had stretchability, but only had partial wrinkles on the woven fabric surface.

[0044]

[Table 1]

[0045]

According to the present invention, PTT conjugated multifilament yarns are used as wefts for various types of warps including conventionally used polyester filament fabrics, and hot water treatment is applied to the front and back of the fabrics. A rugged surface with a jacquard pattern can be obtained. In addition, the woven fabric is also rich in stretchability in the horizontal direction, can be produced at low cost, and is an ideal product for casual use.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photograph of a fabric surface showing an example of a fiber shape on the fabric surface of a jacquard-like uneven pattern according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a model diagram showing an example of a horizontal section of a jacquard-like uneven pattern according to the present invention.

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A multifilament yarn of a conjugate fiber having a crimp developing ability in which different polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction. A woven fabric characterized by having a three-dimensional uneven pattern on the front and back surfaces of the woven fabric due to the expression of crimp of a multifilament yarn of the conjugate fiber. 2. The side-by-side type conjugate fiber according to claim 1, wherein the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is 110 ° C. or more, and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more. The woven fabric as described. 3. The three-dimensional uneven pattern, wherein a convex portion on the surface of the fabric forms a concave portion when viewed from the back surface of the fabric, and a concave portion on the surface of the fabric,
The woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has a convex portion when viewed from the back surface of the woven fabric. 4. The woven fabric according to claim 1, having a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the weft direction. 5. A multifilament yarn of a conjugate fiber having a crimp developing ability in which different polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction. A woven fabric characterized by applying a hot water treatment of 80 ° C. or more to a woven fabric using as a weft yarn, and expressing a random and three-dimensional uneven pattern in the warp direction on the front and back of the woven fabric by a coil-like crimping force in the weft direction. Manufacturing method.