JP2000096383A - Production of spun yarn-like high-density woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a raw material capable of providing a woven fabric having touch of cotton and excellent in functionality such as waterproofness and moisture permeability and suitable as casual clothes such as coat or blouson or sport clothes for skiing, marinesport, athletics, etc. SOLUTION: Combined filament yarn comprising a polyester multifilament crimped yarn alternately having a hollow cross section part and a non-hollow cross section part in longitudinal direction of each monofilament constituted and having different phases of hollow cross section and non-hollow cross section in longitudinal direction between monofilaments and a polyester filament uncrimped yarn in which shrinkage factor of boiling water is >=20% is used as a warp and ultrafine fiber having <=0.5 denier fineness of monofilament is used as a weft and the warp and the weft are woven and finished to provide the objective woven having >=2,500 cover factor.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density spun-tone woven fabric suitable for a coat or a sports outer garment that requires functionality such as waterproofness and moisture permeability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, coats, skis, marine,
Sports clothing such as athletic is required to have both waterproof and moisture-permeable functions. In general, in order to meet these demands, a method of forming a microporous resin layer on the surface of a water-repellent cloth by a coating method, a laminating method, or the like using a polyurethane resin or a polyamino acid resin, or an ultrafine fiber For example, a method of performing a water-repellent treatment on a woven fabric obtained by weaving woven fabric at a high density. In addition, a method of applying a water-repellent treatment to a high-density woven fabric and further performing a heating and pressurizing process with a heating calendar or the like to crush the woven fabric has been performed. However, in the case of the method of forming a microporous resin layer on the surface,
There is a problem that the feeling becomes hard, and in the latter method of weaving at high density and applying water repellent treatment, there is a limit on the weaving density at the time of weaving the fabric, so that sufficient water pressure cannot be obtained. was there. In recent years, along with the diversification of the needs of the market and the trend toward higher grades, those with high sensitivity are required,
For example, as disclosed in JP-B-60-139848, a high-density woven fabric using a composite yarn of polyester multifilament and cotton, and as described in JP-A-1-306645, a high shrinkage component and a low shrinkage component are disclosed. There has been proposed a spun-tone high-density woven fabric having a feeling and appearance like a spun yarn, using a mixed yarn of extra fine fibers as a warp and a flat cross-section yarn as a weft. However, when a composite yarn of polyester multifilament and cotton is used, the processability at the time of using a warp is poor, the process is complicated, and the cost increases. In the latter case, since the flat cross-section yarn is used, the appearance of the woven fabric has a strong glaring feeling, the feeling is different from the cotton touch, and there is a problem that the cotton does not have a sufficient cotton feeling.

[0003]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and has the functions of a high-density fabric, such as waterproofness and moisture permeability, as well as a spun yarn-like feel and appearance. It is an object of the present invention to provide a spun-tone high-density woven fabric having

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problem, and has a hollow cross-section and a non-hollow cross-section alternately in the longitudinal direction of each of the constituent single filaments. A polyester multifilament crimped yarn in which the phases of the hollow cross-section and the non-hollow cross-section differ in the longitudinal direction between filaments and a polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more were mixed. Using a composite blended yarn for the warp, weaving the weft to an ultra-fine polyester multifilament yarn having a fineness of a single filament of 0.5 denier or less, weaving it, and finishing it to make the cover factor of the fabric 2500 or more. The gist of the invention is a method for producing a high-density spun tone woven fabric.

[0005]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
In the present invention, having a hollow cross-section and a non-hollow cross-section alternately in the longitudinal direction of each single filament configured as a warp,
In addition, a polyester multifilament crimped yarn in which the phases of the hollow cross-section and the non-hollow cross-section differ in the longitudinal direction between each single filament and a polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more. A mixed composite yarn is used.

The polyester multifilament crimped yarn used in the present invention has hollow cross-sections and non-hollow cross-sections alternately in the longitudinal direction of each of the constituent single filaments. This hollow cross-section means a hollow portion in the cross section of the single filament, and the shape of the hollow portion may be a round shape, but is usually an unspecified shape in which a circle is crushed. , In the longitudinal direction of the single filament. On the other hand, the non-hollow cross section is a portion in which substantially no hollow portion exists in the cross section of the single filament. Further, the hollow cross-section and the non-hollow cross-section in the longitudinal direction of each single filament of this processed yarn exist in a state where the phases are different. That is, in the cross section of this processed yarn, as shown in FIG. 1, a filament having a hollow section and a filament having a non-hollow section are mixed.

[0007] Such a polyester multifilament crimped yarn is prepared by subjecting a drawn yarn having a normal hollow cross section to false twisting under specific conditions or a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having a hollow cross section obtained by a high-speed spinning method. It can be obtained by performing simultaneous draw-twisting under specific conditions using the same or by treating a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn having this hollow cross section in a series of steps of relaxation heat treatment → cold drawing → false twisting. If false twisting is performed under normal conditions using a yarn having a hollow cross section, the hollow cross section of the supply yarn becomes a completely crushed processed yarn. If false twisting is performed at a low setting, the stress received by the filament located outside the yarn and the filament located inside the yarn in the twisted state is different, and the outer filament disappears because the hollow part is crushed and disappears and becomes inside The stress received is small, the degree of deformation is small, and a hollow portion remains. On the other hand, since the yarn is running continuously, the same single filament is twisted while being positioned outside or inside the yarn, so that each single filament has a hollow cross section in the longitudinal direction. A non-hollow cross section is formed, and the phase of the single filament is different. As the number of false twists T (t / m), T = (18000 to 25000) with respect to the fineness D (denier) after false twisting.
/ D ^1/2 may be set. When a polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn is used, the target crimped yarn can be more stably obtained by setting the draw ratio to 1.10 to 1.35 times, which is smaller than usual, together with the number of false twists. Will be able to do it.

In the processed yarn obtained by such a processing method, a hollow cross-section and a non-hollow cross-section are formed in each single filament in the longitudinal direction, and the phases of the single filaments are different. , The shape of the hollow part and the outer shape of the filament change into a single filament in the longitudinal direction,
In particular, the outer shape of the filament becomes flat due to deformation of the hollow portion even if the outer shape of the supply yarn is round. These have a spun like feel and a refreshing feeling in the woven fabric, and greatly contribute to the appearance of a natural surface feeling. Further, the apparent thickness in the longitudinal direction of the single filament of the processed yarn is also slightly changed. This further improves the spun-like feel, coolness, and natural surface feel of the fabric.

In the present invention, the polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn used for the warp by blending with the above-mentioned polyester multifilament crimped yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 2%.
It is preferably at least 0%, and particularly preferably the boiling water shrinkage is 22 to 60%. When the boiling water shrinkage is 20%, shrinkage during processing of the woven fabric is small, so that the swelling feeling of the woven fabric and the high density can be sufficiently achieved.

A polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of not less than 20% can be obtained by changing the heat treatment conditions at the time of production, and other components such as isophthalic acid can be added to the polyethylene terephthalate unit. It can be obtained by copolymerization.

In the present invention, the blending of the above-mentioned polyester multifilament crimped yarn and polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn is preferably performed by an interlacing method known as an air entanglement device. At this time, as a supply condition of both yarns, it is preferable that both yarns are supplied in parallel or a crimped yarn is supplied by 1 to 5% more than a non-crimped yarn.

In the present invention, the weft is woven using an ultrafine polyester multifilament yarn having a single filament fineness of 0.5 denier or less. High-density woven fabrics have high rigidity due to the large binding force of the yarn, and the hand feel becomes hard.In addition, it is necessary to make the woven fabric surface fine to maintain waterproof performance. It is effective to use ultra-fine fibers, and when the fineness of a single filament is 0.5 denier or less, the flexibility of the yarn greatly facilitates obtaining a highly water-resistant fabric, and the feeling becomes good. .

In the present invention, the composite yarn of the above-described polyester multifilament crimped yarn and polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn is used for the warp, and the fine polyester multifilament having a single filament fineness of 0.5 denier or less is used. The weaving is performed using the filament yarn as the weft yarn, and the finishing process is performed, so that the cover factor of the woven fabric is 2500 or more. When designing the woven fabric, the structure of the woven fabric is not particularly specified, but plain weave and twill weave are preferably used. The fineness and density of the warp yarn at the time of weaving are designed so that the cover factor of the finished woven fabric is 2500 or more in consideration of shrinkage in the finishing process.

The finishing may be carried out in a usual process, but it is preferable to pay attention to the fact that the shrinkage characteristics of the high shrinkage filament used in the warp are sufficiently exhibited. In the present invention, the reason why the cover factor of the woven fabric after finishing is 2500 or more is that the warp and the weft are more closely structured to prevent water leakage from the structure point, and the cover factor K is the warp fineness N (Denier), the weft fineness M (denier), the warp density A (books / inch), and the weft density B (books / inch) are the coefficients obtained by K = N ^1/2 × A + M ^1/2 × B.

[0015]

The present invention will be described below in detail with reference to examples. The performance evaluation of the woven fabric in the examples was performed by the following method. (1) Water repellency Measured according to JIS L-1092 spray method. (2) Waterproofness Measured according to JIS L-1092 low water pressure method. (3) Moisture permeability Measured according to JIS L-1099 A-1 method. (4) Hands A cotton-feel was sufficiently recognized by the panel's sensitivity test.

Example 1 A 150 d / 36 f polyester high-orientation undrawn yarn having a hollow cross section with a hollow ratio of 25% taken at a spinning speed of 3300 m / min was relaxed in a series of processing steps of relaxation heat treatment, cold drawing and false twisting. The conditions were as follows: relaxation rate 100%, heat treatment temperature 180 ° C, cold stretching conditions: stretching ratio 2.0 times, false twist conditions: false twist number Z2000t / m, false twist temperature 180 ° C, stretching ratio 1.15, yarn The processing speed is set to 120 m / min, the hollow section and the non-hollow section are alternately provided in the longitudinal direction of each single filament, and the hollow section and the non-hollow section are longitudinally interposed between each single filament. Of polyester multifilaments having different phases. The non-crimped 60d / 12f polyester yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 28% made of a polyester obtained by copolymerizing 10% by mole of isophthalic acid with 10% by mole of isophthalic acid was used to obtain an overfeed rate of 0.4% and an air pressure of 1 kg / cm ^2. To obtain a composite mixed yarn of 200d / 48f. This composite mixed yarn is used as a warp, and a polyester multifilament 200d / 728f (single filament fineness 0.3 denier) is used as a weft, and the warp density is 100.
A flat-textile woven fabric is woven at a density of 60 yarns / inch and a weft density of 60 yarns / inch. Density 78
A spun tone high density woven fabric according to the present invention having a woven fabric cover factor of 2616 was obtained.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, the boiling water shrinkage rate was 28%, 60 d
Warp density in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 60d / 12f polyester non-crimped yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate and having a boiling water shrinkage of 7.4% was used instead of the polyester non-crimped yarn of / 12f. A woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 having 107 yarns / inch, a weft density of 65 yarns / inch and a woven fabric cover factor of 2432 was obtained.

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, a highly cross-linked polyester non-oriented yarn 15 having a round cross-section without a hollow portion was used instead of the 150 d / 36 f polyester high-oriented non-stretched yarn having a hollow section of 25% hollow section.
A woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 0d / 36f was used.

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, the density at the time of weaving was changed to a warp density of 100 yarns /
Inch, weft density: 60 threads / inch, warp density: 90 threads / inch
Inch, the weft density was 55 yarns / inch, and the finished warp density was 96 yarns / inch, the weft density was 72 yarns / inch, and a woven fabric of Comparative Example 3 having a cover factor of 2376 was obtained.

Comparative Example 4 In Example 1, the weft was replaced with 200d / 728f (single filament fineness: 0.3 denier), and 200d / 2
A woven fabric of Comparative Example 4 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 08f (single filament fineness: 0.98 denier) was used. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabrics of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4.

[0021]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabric according to the present invention had sufficient performance and had a cottony touch and soft feeling with a smooth feel. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, the cotton touch is felt but the swelling feeling is small, and the waterproofness is poor. Comparative Example 2 is a poorly-feeled ordinary processed yarn fabric, and Comparative Example 3 is Although the feeling is good, it is inferior in performance such as waterproofness, and in Comparative Example 4, the cotton touch is felt, but the feeling is rough and hard and the performance is inferior.

[0023]

According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having a cotton feel and having excellent functions such as waterproofness and moisture permeability.
Materials suitable for casual clothing such as coats and blousons, and sports clothing such as skis, marine, and athletic can be provided.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of a cross section of a crimped yarn used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Hollow section filament 2 Non-hollow section filament

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 4L048 AA20 AA35 AA37 AA39 AA50 AB08 AB09 AB12 BA01 BA02 CA15 CA16 DA02 DA03

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A single filament has a hollow cross-section and a non-hollow cross-section alternately in the longitudinal direction, and each single filament has a phase difference between the hollow cross-section and the non-hollow cross-section in the longitudinal direction. A composite multifilament yarn obtained by mixing a polyester multifilament crimped yarn and a non-crimped polyester multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more is used as the warp, and the weft has a single filament fineness of 0. A method for producing a high-density spun-tone woven fabric, comprising weaving a fine polyester multifilament yarn having a denier of 5 deniers or less and covering the woven fabric with a finish factor by 2500 or more. 2. A hollow polyester multifilament having a hollow ratio of 20% or more is false-twisted at a low false twist number, and a hollow cross section and a non-hollow cross section are alternately formed in the longitudinal direction of each of the constituent single filaments. A polyester multifilament crimped yarn having a hollow cross-section and a non-hollow cross-section that differ in the longitudinal direction between each single filament, and has a boiling water shrinkage of 20% with the polyester multifilament crimped yarn. % Of the polyester multifilament non-crimped yarn is used as the warp, and the weft is woven using the ultrafine polyester multifilament yarn whose single filament fineness is 0.5 denier or less, Finishing process to increase the fabric cover factor by 250
A method for producing a spun-tone high-density woven fabric, which is set to 0 or more.