JP2000054238A - Under thread for stretch embroidery lace and production of stretch embroidery lace - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain highly stretchable under thread with slight breakage or embroidery fraying by double covering false-twist textured polyester multifilament yarn of specified fineness on specific water-soluble polymeric yarn as core yarn. SOLUTION: This under thread is obtained by double covering, on water-soluble polymeric yarn such as of polyvinyl alcohol <=100 denier in fineness as core yarn, false-twist textured polyester multifilament yarn 30-100 denier in fineness and >=55 g/d in initial modulus consisting of polyethylene terephthalate, satisfying the relationship: (tanδ)max>=0.01(Tmax-105) [Tmax( deg.C) is the peak temperature of dynamic loss tangent (tanδ) at a frequency of 11O Hz;(tanδ)max is the peak value of the tanδ], and having the (tanδ)max of >=0.08; wherein it is preferable that, in the double covering operation, the numbers of twists of the first twisting yarn and final twisting yarn are 1,000-1,800 T/m and 600-1,200 T/m, respectively.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a backing yarn for a stretch embroidery lace and a method for producing the stretch embroidery lace. Has little fraying and embroidery and has excellent dyeing fastness.
The present invention relates to a backing yarn for stretch embroidery lace not using stretchable elastic yarn such as spandex and a method for producing a stretch embroidery lace suitable for swimwear, inner lace, outer lace and the like using this backing yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art An embroidery lace used for women's underwear or the like is required to have elasticity in order to improve fit with a human body. For this reason, in the conventional embroidery lace, a stretchable warp knitted fabric such as a power net is used as the base cloth, and the embroidery thread has a reduced stretchability during embroidery processing, and is subjected to a subsequent dyeing process. A yarn exhibiting elasticity is used. In embroidery lace, a pattern is formed by sewn on the lace base fabric using two embroidery threads as a front thread and a back thread. The reason for this is that a loop cannot be formed during lockstitching. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 54-106672 discloses such an embroidery thread in which a thread having rubber elasticity is used as a core thread, a thread made of a water-soluble polymer is used as an inner cover thread, and a non-water-soluble fiber thread is used as an outer thread. As a cover yarn, a yarn which has been stretched by drafting at a draft of 2 to 3 and a rotation speed of about 8000 times / minute has been proposed.
The yarn is used in an embroidery machine to form a pattern on the stretchable base fabric, and then immersed in an aqueous solution to dissolve and remove the water-soluble polymer yarn, thereby restoring the elasticity of the yarn. However, the embroidery yarn obtained by this method has a rubber elasticity draft at the time of covering of 2 to 3 and is stretched, so that after removing the water-soluble polymer yarn, it returns to its original state. An embroidery cloth with severe irregularities was formed, which was significantly shrunk and shrunk by about 45% in the weft direction, and was insufficient in aesthetic sense.

As a method for solving this disadvantage, Japanese Patent Publication No.
Japanese Patent No. 23622 proposes an embroidery thread in which a water-insoluble fiber thread is covered with a collective yarn in which a water-soluble fiber thread is aligned with a stretchable elastic thread whose actual size is held by a draft 1. This embroidery thread has an advantage of having excellent followability to the expansion and contraction of the lace base fabric because the actual size can be maintained even if the water-soluble fiber thread is dissolved and removed after the embroidery is formed. However, even if the water-soluble fiber yarns are drawn together without drafting the stretchable elastic yarn, it is impossible to handle the stretchable elastic yarn without any tension. Is added to the yarn, which causes elongation due to the tension and shrinkage due to the recovery of the elongation. The surface of the obtained yarn has many twists (loop-like protrusions caused by untwisting), and the yarn breaks during embroidery processing. This is disadvantageous in that entanglement tends to occur, and that the entanglement between the backing yarn and the pattern yarn is apt to occur during embroidering, so that skipping and fraying are likely to occur. In order to eliminate the occurrence of the thread breakage, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 7-300731 is disclosed.
Japanese Patent Application Publication No. JP-A-2005-64131 proposes a composite embroidery thread for an embroidery lace, in which a water-soluble non-stretchable yarn is wrapped around a stretchable yarn arranged as a core yarn by a knitting.

[0004] However, in the above-mentioned conventional technique, since a stretchable elastic yarn such as spandex is used as a core yarn, there is a major drawback in that the product cost is increased. In addition, when the stretchable elastic yarn has a large fiber diameter and is wound up in a cup (a yarn wound in a tubular shape), the overall length of the yarn becomes short, and embroidery fraying is liable to occur. Furthermore, in the case where a water-insoluble fiber yarn is used in the past, polyamide yarn is generally used from the viewpoint that the yarn has good dyeing compatibility with stretchable elastic yarn such as spandex, and a texture suitable for innerwear applications is obtained. At present, yarn is used, and polyester yarn is hardly used. This is because the polyester yarn is a hydrophobic fiber and has the property that it is hard to be blended with the skin.In addition, when the aggregate yarn of the polyester yarn and the spandex is dyed with a disperse dye, the spandex is contaminated with the disperse dye and the fastness decreases. This was because there was a big problem.

[0005]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and to use a stretchable fabric that follows a stretchable lace base fabric without using a stretchable elastic thread such as spandex as an embroidery thread. Stretch embroidery with less breakage and embroidery fray, and using polyester fiber yarn as water-insoluble fiber yarn to give a texture suitable for innerwear, etc. and reduce product cost An object of the present invention is to provide a lace back yarn and a method for producing a stretch embroidery lace using the back yarn.

[0006]

Means for Solving the Problems In view of the above problems, the inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies and have found that a backing yarn obtained by double-covering a polyester multifilament yarn obtained by false twisting a water-soluble polymer yarn by a specific method. By using, embroidery can be formed on a lace base cloth having stretchability without causing troubles such as thread breakage, and the backing yarn has elasticity following the expansion and contraction of the lace base cloth, and a large cost of product. The inventors have found that reduction and improvement in commercial value can be achieved, and have reached the present invention. That is, the invention claimed in the present application is as follows.

(1) A stretch embroidery lace characterized in that a water-soluble polymer yarn of 100 denier or less is used as a core yarn, and a 30 to 100 denier false twisted polyester multifilament yarn is double-covered. Backing thread. (2) The number of twists of the lower twist yarn at the time of the double covering is 100
0-1800 T / m, the number of twists of the upper twist yarn is 600-1200
T / m, and a twist coefficient ((number of twists / number of twists) × 10
The back yarn for stretch embroidery lace according to (1), wherein 0) is 55 to 100. (3) The number of twists of the lower twist yarn during the double covering is 120
0 to 1600 T / m, the number of twists of the upper twist yarn is 800 to 1100
T / m, and a twist coefficient ((number of twists / number of twists) × 10
The back yarn for stretch embroidery lace according to (1), wherein 0) is 60 to 95.

(4) The polyester multifilament yarn is a fiber substantially composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an initial modulus at 30 ° C. of 55 g / d or more, and a peak temperature of a mechanical loss tangent (tan δ) at a measurement frequency of 110 Hz. (Tmax) (° C.) and the peak value of tan δ ((tan δ) max) are (ta
(δ) max ≧ 0.01 (Tmax−105), and (tanδ) max is 0.08 or more, and the stretch enzyme according to any one of (1) to (3). Back yarn for braidly lace. (5) After performing embroidery on a lace base fabric having stretch properties using a back yarn having a front yarn and a water-soluble polymer yarn,
In the method for producing a stretch embroidery lace for dissolving and removing the water-soluble polymer yarn, as the backing yarn,
(1) A method for producing a stretch embroidery lace, comprising using the backing yarn according to any one of (1) to (4).

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The backing yarn for stretch embroidery lace according to the present invention has a water-soluble polymer yarn of 100 denier or less, preferably 30 to 75 denier, and 30 to 75 denier.
100 denier, preferably 50 to 75 denier, is a yarn obtained by double covering a false twisted polyester multifilament yarn. In such a backing yarn, due to the presence of the water-soluble polymer yarn, the elasticity of the false twist yarn is suppressed, the entanglement between the backing yarn and the pattern yarn (front yarn) at the time of embroidering is improved, and the water-soluble polymer yarn is also used. After melting, the crimping property of the false twist yarn is developed, and the followability to the stretchable lace base fabric is improved. As the water-soluble polymer yarn, a yarn made of polyvinyl alcohol, poly-β-alanine, alginate, or the like can be used. If the fineness of the water-soluble polymer yarn exceeds 100 denier, the bulk change of the yarn before and after dissolving and removing the water-soluble polymer yarn increases, and the back of the core of the polyester backing yarn that has developed crimp elasticity is hollowed out. The thread is loosened, has poor stability and is easily frayed. If the fineness of the false-twisted polyester multifilament yarn is less than 30 denier, the yarn strength is insufficient, and if it exceeds 75 denier, the total length of the yarn when wound up into a cup becomes short, the frequency of replacing the cup increases, and the embroidery efficiency deteriorates. .

In the present invention, there is no particular limitation on the twisting direction of the double covering of the false-twisted polyester multifilament yarn, but the twisting direction of the lower twisting yarn is opposite to the false twisting direction of the polyester multifilament yarn. It is preferable to make the twist direction of the reverse direction of the twist direction of the lower twist yarn.
With such double covering conditions, in the back yarn before dissolution of the water-soluble polymer yarn, the torque and elasticity of the lower twist yarn are large, the torque and elasticity of the upper twist yarn are small, and the upper twist yarn is the lower twist yarn. In order to suppress the occurrence of twisting, twisting of the twisted cheese and uncoiling at the time of unwinding the cup is reduced, and the processability is improved. In addition, it becomes easy to wind the yarn in the cup winding step, and furthermore, it becomes easy to develop crimp elasticity after dissolving and removing the water-soluble polymer yarn.

[0011] The number of twists of the lower twisted yarn and the upper twisted yarn and the twist factor of the upper twisted number and the lower twisted number during double covering of the polyester multifilament yarn ((number of twisted yarns / number of lower twisted yarns) x 100)
Are 1000-1800 T / m and 600-12, respectively.
00T / m, the range of 55-100 is preferable. By adopting such twisting conditions, there is no occurrence of twisting or yarn breakage during the cup winding step, the cup shape after winding becomes good, and furthermore, yarn breakage and yarn clogging during embroidery can be eliminated. More preferably, the number of twists of the lower twisted yarn and the upper twisted yarn is 1200 to 1600 T / m and 800 to 1200 T, respectively.
/ M, and a more preferred twist coefficient is 60 to 95.

In the present invention, the false-twisted polyester multifilament yarn has high mechanical properties as polyester and can be dyed at normal temperature and normal pressure, and has excellent dyeing fastness. A fiber substantially consisting of polyethylene terephthalate having an initial modulus at 55 ° C. of 55 g / d or more, and a mechanical loss tangent (tan) at a measurement frequency of 110 Hz.
δ) peak temperature (Tmax) (° C.) and tan δ peak value ((tan δ) max) are (tan δ) max ≧
A polyester false twisted yarn having a structure in an amorphous region, which satisfies the relationship of 0.01 (Tmax-105) and has a (tan δ) max of 0.08 or more, is preferable.

As described in detail in JP-B-61-36101, such a normal-pressure dyeable polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn is prepared by, for example, mixing a raw yarn of polyethylene terephthalate before false twisting with 4000 m / m.
It is obtained by spinning at a high speed for at least one minute and performing a dry heat treatment at a high temperature for a short time. Commercially available polyester false twisted yarns include Tech Woolly Eming manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation.

In the present invention, the stretch embroidery lace is a special double-twisted polyester yarn having a face yarn (pattern yarn) and two polyester false twisted yarns as the water-soluble polymer yarn on a stretchable lace base fabric. It is manufactured by embroidering with the backing yarn obtained by covering and then dissolving and removing the water-soluble polymer yarn. The lace base fabric having a stretch property may be a woven fabric or a knitted fabric, for example, a woven fabric using a spandex core yarn having elasticity in a weft direction, or a warp in which a polyurethane elastic yarn is combined with another fiber yarn. Knitted fabrics such as knitted fabrics and circular knitted fabrics are exemplified. Also, a knitted fabric having greater elasticity in only one direction such as a so-called jersey or tricot can be used.

When embroidering on a stretchable lace base fabric, an adhesive is applied to a woven or knitted fabric made of water-soluble fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol to temporarily fix the stretchability of the base fabric. Used superimposed with or without use. The surface yarn is not particularly limited, and any yarn such as rayon, nylon, tetron, wool, and silk can be used. From the viewpoint of obtaining the followability to the expansion and contraction of the lace base fabric, the above-described normal pressure dyeable polyester false twist is used. It is preferable to use a textured yarn. For example, a 75-200 denier polyester twisted yarn or a twisted low crimp false twisted yarn is used. At this time, the number of twists is preferably 400 T / m or less. If necessary, the twisting torque may be reduced by a steam set to prevent the occurrence of twisting.

The lace base fabric, which is temporarily fixed in elasticity, is embroidered by an embroidery machine using a front thread as the embroidery thread and the above-mentioned back thread, in which the elasticity is temporarily fixed, as an embroidery thread. This is immersed in an aqueous solvent to dissolve and remove the water-soluble fibers and the water-soluble polymer yarns used for the elastic fixation, thereby restoring the elasticity of the lace base cloth and double-twisted polyester false twist. The crimp and torque of the processed yarn are developed, and the back yarn is given elasticity that follows the elasticity of the lace base fabric.

As described above, although the backing yarn of the present invention does not include a stretchable elastic yarn such as spandex, the two double-covered polyester false twisted yarns have a twisting direction at the time of double covering. Furthermore, since the number of twists and the twist coefficient are selected under appropriate conditions, when the water-soluble polymer yarn, which is the core yarn, is dissolved and removed, it functions as a stretch yarn by expressing crimp and torque. Can be. Further, by using a polyester false twisted yarn spun as a back yarn in the present invention, high-speed spun polyester yarn can be dyed at normal temperature and normal pressure, the texture and the color fastness are improved, and the commercial value is significantly improved. be able to.

When a polyamide yarn is used instead of the polyester yarn in the same structure as the backing yarn in the present invention, the dimensional stability of the embroidery product due to washing is poor, and the embroidery product has a large embroidery pattern or a continuous pattern. In this case, wrinkles occur, so that only small-sized embroidery products can be obtained. This is presumably due to the fact that the crimpability of the nylon-processed yarn is too strong and the shrinkage characteristics of the polyamide yarn.

[0019]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. In addition, each characteristic in the example was measured by the following method. (1) Twist yarn elongation A: Elongation of back yarn before dissolving water-soluble vinylon (Examples 1 to 8, Comparative Examples 1 and 2) or elongation of special twin yarn (Comparative Examples 3 to 6) Covering yarn is 100 cm around the frame To make 10 lap skeins and 5g
The skein length measurement (a) was measured by applying a load, and then the skein length measurement (b) was performed at a load of 200 g, and the elongation was calculated by the following equation. Elongation ratio (%) = [(ba) / a] × 100 (2) Twist yarn elongation B: Elongation of back yarn after dissolving water-soluble vinylon (Examples 1 to 8, Comparative Examples 1 and 2) or the above dissolution treatment Elongation of special twin yarn after similar treatment (Comparative Examples 3 to
6) The covering yarn is made into a skein of 10 turns with a frame circumference of 100 cm, immersed in warm water of 80 ° C. for 10 minutes, and this is repeated twice to dissolve the water-soluble vinylon. Dried. 5g for this covering thread
A skein length measurement (a) is measured by applying a load, and then a skein length measurement (b) is performed at a load of 200 g. After removing the load, the skein length is measured for 30 minutes. Was measured, and the elongation rate and the recovery rate were calculated by the following equations. Elongation rate (%): [(ba) / a] × 100 Recovery rate (%): [(bc) / (ba)] × 100

(3) Untwisting (occurrence of twisting): Twisting (twisting) of the yarn due to twisting torque when the covering yarn was unwound from the wound cheese was visually judged and evaluated according to the following criteria. ×: The stiffness is strong and the stiffness does not easily disappear. Δ: Slip occurs but can be easily removed with a tension applying device or the like. ：: Slip occurs, but no slip occurs during unwinding of the cheese. A: No chattering occurred. (4) Cup winding processability: The yarn breakage and the cup shape in the step of winding the backing yarn into a cup shape were observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. (Yarn break) ×: Many yarn breaks occur during the formation of the cup. ：: Thread breaks sometimes occur. ◎: Very few yarn breaks occurred. (Cup shape) X: Unwinding failure occurs due to the collapse of the cup shape. ：: The shape was slightly deformed, but no poor unwinding occurred. ：: No problem in shape collapse and unwinding. (5) Embroidery: Thread embroidery and clogging when embroidered on a race ground with an embroidery machine were observed and evaluated as follows. ×: Yarn clogging due to untwisting or collapsed cup shape occurs frequently. ：: Occasionally thread clogging occurs. ◎: No thread clogging. (6) Race elongation (%): The elongation of the sample when a 2.25 kgf load was applied to a sample having a length of 20 cm and a width of 5 cm was calculated.

Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 6 Spandex 140d and polyester false twisted yarn TE
A power net made by warp knitting C33d / 12f (made by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) on a tulle ground is used as a lace base fabric, a water-soluble vinylon fabric is overlaid on the lace base fabric and fixed to a frame, and the following pattern yarn and back yarn are attached. Embroidery machine was used to form an embroidery of a jump pattern (pattern number B33544 of Chuetsu lace). The lace base fabric had a spandex mixture ratio of 2
The finished density was 57 / in course and 50 / in well.

I) Pattern yarn: polyester false twisted yarn TEC
150d / 48f (low-crimped false twisted yarn manufactured by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd.) was z-twisted at 150 T / m. ii) Back yarn (Examples 1 to 8, Comparative Examples 1 and 2): Using polyester z twisted false twisted yarn TEC50d / 24f as the wrapping yarn and water-soluble vinylon yarn 56d as the core yarn, the conditions of the dull covering are shown. Each of them was covered as described above. No steam set after twisting. iii) Back yarn (Comparative Examples 3 to 6): polyester false twisted yarn T
A special twin yarn twisted yarn obtained by applying a lower twist to EC 150d / 48f and then covering the upper twist yarn (the same false twist processed yarn). Each of the obtained embroidery products was preset at 175 ° C. for 40 seconds, immersed in warm water of 80 ° C. for 10 minutes, repeated twice, dissolved in water-soluble vinylon, and dyed at a temperature of 120 ° C. or less. , Reduced washing at 80 ° C, and 130-140
A final set at 40 ° C. for 40 seconds resulted in a stretch embroidery race. The elongation characteristics of each backing yarn (twisted yarn) before and after dissolution of the water-soluble vinylon, generation of stiffness, cup winding processability, embroidery and elongation of the embroidery product were evaluated or measured, and the results are shown in Table 2.

[0023]

[Table 1]

[0024]

[Table 2]

From Tables 1 and 2, the backing yarn of the present invention has a low elongation before dissolving the water-soluble vinylon and a small amount of untwisting (occurrence of twisting). This indicates that the yarn has excellent properties and that the yarn breakage and clogging during embroidery formation are small. Further, it was confirmed that the back yarn after dissolving the water-soluble vinylon exhibited excellent stretchability and recovery rate, and that stretchability following the stretch of the lace product was obtained. Furthermore, the obtained lace product had a soft embroidery part and a texture that was easily adapted to the skin. On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, selection of the number of lower twists and the number of upper twists during double covering was inadequate, and occurrence of twisting, yarn breakage, etc. occurred, and many manufacturing troubles occurred. Comparative Example 3 not using water-soluble vinylon
In Nos. 6 to 6, the back yarn was so stretchable that entanglement between the back yarn and the pattern yarn during embroidery could not be formed, and skipping and fraying occurred frequently.

[0026]

According to the first aspect of the present invention, it is possible to form an embroidery having excellent followability to expansion and contraction of a stretchable base cloth without using an elastic yarn such as spuntex as an embroidery yarn. As a result, product cost can be significantly reduced. According to the second or third aspect of the present invention, since the conditions of the double covering are appropriately selected, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, there is no occurrence of twisting and no yarn breakage during the cup winding step, and the cup shape becomes favorable. In addition, yarn breakage and clogging during embroidery can be prevented, and manufacturing of a stretch embroidery lace becomes easy. According to the fourth aspect of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned effects, since the polyester false twisted yarn capable of being dyed under normal pressure is used, an embroidery excellent in texture and color fastness can be obtained. According to the fifth aspect of the present invention, since it is not necessary to use a stretchable elastic yarn such as spandex as the embroidery yarn and there is no production trouble, a low-cost stretch embroidery lace can be obtained.

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Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A backing for a stretch embroidery lace, wherein a water-soluble polymer yarn of 100 denier or less is used as a core yarn, and a 30 to 100 denier false twisted polyester multifilament yarn is double-covered. yarn. 2. The number of twists of the lower twisted yarn at the time of the double covering is 1000 to 1800 T / m, and the number of twists of the upper twisted yarn is 600 to 800 T / m.
The back yarn for stretch embroidery lace according to claim 1, wherein the back yarn is 1200 T / m, and the twist coefficient ((number of twists / number of twists) x 100) is 55 to 100. 3. The twist number of the lower twist yarn at the time of the double covering is 1200 to 1600 T / m, and the twist number of the upper twist yarn is 800 to 1600 T / m.
The back yarn for a stretch embroidery lace according to claim 1, wherein the back yarn is 1100 T / m and a twist coefficient ((number of twists / number of twists) x 100) is 60 to 95. 4. The polyester multifilament yarn is a fiber substantially consisting of polyethylene terephthalate having an initial modulus at 30 ° C. of 55 g / d or more, and has a mechanical loss tangent (tan δ) peak temperature (tan δ) at a measurement frequency of 110 Hz. Tmax) (° C.) and t
The peak value of an δ ((tan δ) max) is (tan tan)
The stretch embroidery according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a relationship of δ) max ≧ 0.01 (Tmax−105) is satisfied, and (tan δ) max is 0.08 or more. Back yarn for lace. 5. A stretch embroidery lace for embroidering a stretchy lace base fabric using a back yarn having a front yarn and a water-soluble polymer yarn, and then dissolving and removing the water-soluble polymer yarn. A method for producing a stretch embroidery lace, wherein the back yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is used as the back yarn.