JP2000008246A - Stretchable filament woven fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a thin stretchable filament woven fabric having a good draping property and capable of being set to various touches by weaving covered elastic yarns produced by covering polyurethane elastic yarns with polyester yarns as one of warps and wefts with polyester yarns as the other and subsequently subjecting the woven fabric to a weight-reducing processing treatment. SOLUTION: This stretchable filament woven fabric is obtained by weaving covered elastic yarns as one of wefts and warps with polyester yarns C having a fineness of 20-150 d as the other and subsequently subjecting the woven fabric to a weight-reducing processing treatment to reduce 5-36 wt.% of the polyester yarns B and 2-25 wt.% of the polyester yarns C. The covered elastic yarns comprise polyurethane elastic yarns having a fineness of 10-140 d as core yarns and polyester yarns B having a fineness of 30-150 d and capable of being dyed at the atmospheric pressure as sheath yarns.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric and a method for producing the same, and more particularly, to a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric in which polyester yarn and spandex yarn are interwoven and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, stretchable long-fiber woven fabrics composed of nylon yarn and spandex yarn have a unidirectional stretch, and have been widely used mainly as ski wear and sportswear such as swimwear.

[0003]

The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric obtained by interweaving a nylon yarn and a spandex yarn has a surface gloss due to the use of long fibers. Various feelings until spinning could not be appropriately set. By realizing the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric having these various feelings, it is possible to expand applications not only to conventional sportswear but also to one-pieces and blouses. For this reason, such stretchable long-fiber woven fabrics not only have elasticity,
It is required to be thin and have drapability.

Accordingly, it is a first object of the present invention to provide a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric which is thin and has a drape property and can set various feelings.
A second object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric that can easily set the feeling of such stretchable long-fiber woven fabric.

[0005]

The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to the present invention is characterized in that the polyurethane elastic yarn is a polyester yarn B.
The coated elastic yarn coated with the above is used for one of the weft and the warp, the polyester yarn C is used for the other, and after weaving, the polyester yarn B and the polyester yarn C are reduced in weight. It is.

The method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to the present invention comprises a coating elastic system (hereinafter, also referred to as a coating elastic system II) having a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn and a polyester yarn B as a sheath yarn. After weaving using one of the polyester yarns C and weaving using the other, the polyester yarn B and the polyester yarn C are reduced in weight simultaneously or separately.

The polyurethane elastic yarn is also commonly referred to in Japan as “spandex yarn”, and “spandex yarn” in the following description means “polyurethane elastic yarn”. Weight reduction processing means processing to reduce only a part of weight or volume, and processing to completely dissolve and remove the yarn cannot be called weight reduction processing. Therefore, the polyester yarns B and C are subjected to weight reduction processing for removing only a part thereof. In the following description, the term “weight reduction processing” refers to processing in which only a part of the yarn is removed.

[0008] In the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric of the present invention, the spandex yarn is used for one of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and the other is a polyester yarn. As described above, in the present invention, the polyester yarn is interwoven with the spandex yarn. The drape property is low in the case of the woven fabric of only the polyester yarn, but the drape property is extremely improved by interweaving with the spandex yarn. This is because polyester yarns are easier to control the degree of weight loss than nylon yarns and the like, whereby a desired feeling can be obtained. The spandex yarn constituting the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric of the present invention may be bare, but if covered with a reduced amount of polyester yarn, prevention of misregistration and bulkiness and softness are achieved. It is excellent in that it gives a good feel and further improves the drapability.

The spandex yarn used in the present invention may be of any type, but preferably has a fineness of 10 to 140 denier, and if it is less than this range, there is a risk of breakage (spandex yarn breakage) during weight reduction. If it exceeds, there is a possibility that slip-in may easily occur in the woven fabric after the weight reduction processing. The degree of elongation of the spandex yarn is desirably 300% or less. If the elongation exceeds 300%, weaving difficulties may be induced, and the surface of the woven fabric may be uneven or slip (slip).

The polyester yarn B used for coating the spandex yarn is, for example, a modified polyester yarn to which a third component is added, rather than a high-pressure dyeable (130 ° C.) regular polyester yarn, which is dyeable at normal pressure. Is preferred. Types of polyester include normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester yarn (commercially available products include, for example, "Color Fine" (manufactured by Toyobo), "AHY" (manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon),
"Lumilet" (made by Toray) and the like. The preferred fineness of the polyester yarn B is, for example, 30 to 1
It is 50 denier. When the polyester yarn B is a multifilament yarn, a preferable number of filaments is, for example, 12 to 96, in other words, a single yarn denier of 3 deniers or less.

A preferable ratio of the spandex yarn to the polyester yarn B is 1 by weight to 1 of spandex.
The polyester yarn B is about 1.5 to 5 times. The polyester yarn C interwoven with the spandex yarn covered with the polyester yarn B may be any yarn that has a smaller weight reduction process than the polyester yarn B, and is generally a high-pressure / polyester dyeable yarn (105 to 130 ° C). ). The type of polyester of the polyester yarn C is, for example, a high-pressure / cation-dyeable polyester yarn (commercially available, for example, “Loc-I” and “L
oc-II "(manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.), and general high-pressure / dispersible dyeable polyester yarn. The preferred fineness of the polyester yarn C is, for example, 20 to 150 denier, in other words, single yarn denier 1. When the polyester yarn C is a filament yarn, the preferred number of filaments is, for example, 1 to 96.

The coating elastic system II is one of a weft yarn and a warp yarn, and the polyester yarn C is the other. The polyester yarn B, which is the sheath yarn of the coating elastic system II, and the polyester yarn C are stretched and reduced. The long fiber woven fabric is manufactured, for example, as follows. That is, after weaving using the coated elastic system II for one of the weft and the warp and using the polyester yarn C for the other, the polyester yarn B and the polyester yarn C serving as the sheath yarn of the coated elastic system II are used. Are processed simultaneously or separately. In the case of separately performing the weight reduction processing, the order may be any order.

The coated elastic system II is composed of a covered yarn in which a polyester yarn B is wound in a coil shape with respect to a spandex yarn, and a polyester yarn B with respect to a spandex yarn.
Can be used. In the case of the covered yarn, spandex yarn / polyester yarn B =
(20-140 denier) / (20-150 denier)
(Weight ratio of 1/1 to 1/5) is preferable, the draft ratio of the spandex yarn when winding the polyester yarn B is preferably 100 to 300%, and the number of twists is 300 to 1
000 T / m is preferable, and the fineness of the polyester yarn B is 3
0-150 denier is preferred. Outside these ranges, the spandex yarn may be broken or the covering property may be poor. In the case of the above-mentioned entangled yarn, spandex yarn / polyester yarn B = (20 to 140 denier) /
(20 to 150 denier) (weight ratio of 1/1 to 1/5)
The draft ratio immediately before the entanglement of the spandex yarn is preferably 100 to 300%, the fluid pressure at the time of entanglement is preferably 1.5 to 5.0 kg / cm ² , and the overfeed rate at the time of entanglement is 2 to 10%. Preferably, the fineness of the polyester yarn B is 30 to 150 denier. Outside of these ranges, the entanglement strength may be low, or there may be many unwoven portions of unwoven fabric, resulting in poor weaving properties.

The weight reduction of the polyester yarn B can be carried out by using an agent which leaves the spandex yarn as the core yarn, depending on the material of the polyester yarn B. For example, when a modified polyester yarn is used as the polyester of the polyester yarn B, the sodium hydroxide solution 3% o
In the case of immersion in wf for 1 hour or more, and when high-pressure / dyeable polyester yarn is used as the polyester, reduce the weight under the same condition as the modified polyester yarn or a higher concentration and longer time condition. Can be.

The processing for reducing the weight of the polyester yarn C is performed, for example, as follows. In a combination of alkaline agents such as NaOH, sodium silicate, KOH, and Na ₂ CO ₃ , which have a difference in processing speed by adding an amine or a quaternary ammonium salt, a high-pressure dyed polyester yarn having a slow weight loss rate (regular) Type) to promote weight loss. Further, the present invention can be applied to utilizing the speed difference of the modified polyester yarn, and the intended purpose (selection) can be obtained. Here, the amine is an alkylamine, a cyclic amine, an amidoamine, an esteramine, an ethylenediamine, etc., and the quaternary ammonium salt is
For example, the general formula A ⁺ X ^- wherein, A is

[0016]

Embedded image

X is Cl, Br, I, CH
_TwoS0_Four, C_ThreeH₆SO_FourAnd so on. Where R ¹,
R^Two, R^Four, R^Five, R⁷Is alkyl having 1 to 18 carbon atoms
Group, oxyalkyl group, allyl group or oxyallyl group
; R^Three, R⁶ , R⁸Is hydrogen or methyl or ethyl
Is shown]. In addition, polyester yarn
The degree of weight reduction of B and polyester yarn C is not particularly limited.
No, but the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn B is 5 to 35% by weight,
The weight loss rate of the polyester yarn C is 2 to 25% by weight
Is preferred. If the weight loss rate is within this range, an appropriate elongation rate
In addition, it is excellent in terms of the balance between the weft and the warp yarns.
However, if it is out of this range, one of the yarns may slip easily.
There is a point. In addition, the rate of weight loss of polyester yarn B is
If the weight loss rate of the tellurium C is greater than that, the elongation recovery of the elastic yarn
Is preferred in that it acts smoothly. In this case,
The difference is preferably in the range of 3 to 10% by weight.

The fabric structure of the coated elastic system II and the polyester yarn C is, for example, plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and
The weaving is performed as follows, for example. When the coated elastic system II is used for the weft, a repier or sulzer system is often used instead of the shuttle type tension fluctuation (especially easily generated at the ears), and it is important to sufficiently control the tension.

[0019]

By interweaving a polyester yarn and a spandex yarn, a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric having an excellent drape property can be obtained. Moreover, the degree of weight reduction of the polyester yarn is easier to control than that of a nylon yarn or the like, so that a desired feeling can be obtained.

When the spandex yarn is coated with the reduced polyester yarn, the contact is increased and the spandex yarn is excellent in preventing slippage. When the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn B is in the range of 5 to 35% by weight and the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn C is in the range of 2 to 25% by weight, the yarn has a proper elongation rate and has a moderate weft and warp. Excellent in terms of hand balance.

The polyester yarn B and the polyester yarn C are interwoven with the coated elastic system II having the spandex yarn as the core yarn and the polyester yarn B as the sheath yarn, and the polyester yarn C.
By simultaneously or separately reducing the weight of the fabric, a fabric having a better feeling can be obtained.

[0022]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Specific examples and comparative examples of the present invention will be shown below, but the present invention is not limited to the following examples. -Example 1-Using the coated elastic system II and the polyester yarn C shown in Table 1, a woven fabric having the woven fabric structure shown in the table was woven using the yarns shown in the table. The obtained woven fabric was subjected to a liquid flow treatment with a treatment liquid (100 ° C.) in which 3 g / l of stearyltrimethylammonium chloride was added to 3% owf of NaOH for 1 hour, thereby simultaneously reducing the amount of the polyester yarn B as a sheath yarn,
The polyester yarn C was reduced in weight and subjected to a nonionic soft and antistatic finish to obtain a stretchable long fiber fabric. Table 1 also shows the weight loss rates of the polyester yarns B and C.

Example 2 Using the coated elastic system II and the polyester yarn C shown in Table 1, a woven fabric having the woven fabric structure shown in the table was woven using the yarn shown in the table. The obtained woven fabric is subjected to a liquid flow treatment with a treatment liquid (80 ° C.) in which 3 g / l of lauryltrimethylammonium chloride and stearylamine are added to 3% owf of NaOH for 2 hours to reduce the amount of the polyester yarn B as a sheath yarn. At the same time, the polyester yarn C was reduced in weight and subjected to the same finishing treatment as in Example 1 to obtain a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric. Table 1 also shows the weight loss rates of the polyester yarns B and C.

Examples 3 to 5 In Example 1, the yarns used for weaving were changed as shown in Table 1, and the yarn usage, woven fabric structure, polyester yarns B and C were used.
Was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight loss rate was changed as shown in Table 1. However, color fine (manufactured by Toyobo: 75d
In the case of using −34 filament (temporary twisted yarn)) (Example 3), the weight reduction was performed in the same manner as in Example 2. When tetron (50d-36 filament (Loc-II)) was used as the polyester yarn C, the weight reduction was performed in the same manner as in Example 2.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, polyester yarns B and C were woven after weaving.
Was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the weight reduction process was not performed. Table 2 shows the manufacturing conditions and characteristics. Table 2 also shows the following comparative examples. -Comparative Example 2-In Example 1, a nylon thread (monofilament: 20d, manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc.) was used instead of the polyester thread C, and the polyester thread B was weight-reduced, but the nylon thread was not weight-reduced. Then, a stretchable long fiber fabric was obtained.

Comparative Example 3 In Example 1, a nylon yarn (normal nylon: 50d, 24 filaments, manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., 24 filaments) was used instead of the polyester yarn C. The treatment was performed under the conditions of hot water at 40 ° C. for 4 hours, but the treatment was completely dissolved, and a stretchable long fiber fabric was not obtained. In addition, the condition for weight reduction processing of nylon yarn was 35%.
Even when the concentration was changed to a gentle one such as treatment at room temperature (about 25 ° C.) for 3 hours, the substance was completely dissolved.

Comparative Example 4 In Example 2, polyester yarns B and C were obtained after weaving.
Was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the weight reduction process was not performed. -Comparative Example 5-In Example 4, polyester yarns B and C after weaving
Was obtained in the same manner as in Example 4 except that the weight reduction process was not performed.

The properties of the obtained stretchable long-fiber woven fabric were examined as described above, and the results are shown in Table 2. Table 1,
The yarn shown in No. 2 is as follows. "Operon" is a spandex yarn manufactured by Toray DuPont.
"Tetron" is a wooly polyester split yarn manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc. "Lumilet" is a normal pressure cationic dyeable polyester yarn manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc. "Sorblon"
Is a polyvinyl alcohol fiber yarn manufactured by Nichibi Corporation. "AHY" is a cationic dyeable polyester yarn manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd. Each yarn was given a numerical value of fineness [d] and the number of filaments (only in the case of multifilaments). SCY is single covered yarn, A
JY is an air entangled yarn.

The properties of the obtained stretchable long-fiber woven fabric were examined.
The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2. The elasticity was determined by applying a constant load (1 kgf) in the direction of stretching, measuring the length one hour later, and determining the stretching (%) relative to the original length. The thinness was measured by measuring the thickness (mm) under an initial load of 7 g / cm ² with a thickness gauge (manufactured by TECLOCK CORPORATION). ０．４0.45 mm was determined to be thin (（). The feeling was expressed by the handling judgment (1: 1 comparison) with respect to the weight-reduced work cloth of the example, expressing an image having the same or soft feeling and appearance, and discriminating the lower part from the hard touch. JIS L1062
According to Method A, the amount of slip off of the warp yarn (non-stretch yarn) or the weft yarn (non-stretch yarn) at a load of 0.45 kgf was shown.

[0030]

[Table 1]

[0031]

[Table 2]

As shown in Tables 1 and 2, by appropriately reducing the weight of the coated elastic system II and the polyester yarn C, a polyester stretch woven fabric having more drapability was obtained. In addition, in order to represent the shape of each fiber constituting the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric of Example 2 described above, a cross-section of each woven fabric was photographed with an electron microscope (SEM), and the first, second, and third cross sections were taken.
Shown in the figure. FIG. 1 shows fibers of polyester yarn B and spandex yarn of Example 2 (magnification: 200 times), and FIG. 2 shows fibers of polyester yarn C of Example 2 (magnification: 200 times).
Respectively. As can be seen from the above, the fibers of the polyester yarn originally had a deformed and triangular cross-section, but now have an irregular cross-section due to weight reduction processing.

Further, in order to see the shape of each fiber of the polyester yarns B and C of Example 2 from the side, photographs were similarly made and shown in FIGS. FIG. 3 shows the fiber of the polyester yarn B of Example 2 (2000 times magnification), and FIG. 4 shows the fiber of the polyester yarn C of Example 2 (2000 times magnification).
Respectively. As can be seen from these, the fibers of the polyester yarn originally had a shape that smoothly extended in the length direction, but due to the weight reduction after weaving, many irregularities appeared in the length direction. As a result, an appropriate gap is formed even in the warp and the weft, or the inside of the coated elastic yarn II, and the effects of bulkiness, soft touch, and drape feeling are obtained.

[0034]

The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to the present invention comprises:
As described above, according to these inventions, it is thin and has a drape property, and various feelings can be set. Thus, the stretchable long-fiber woven fabric can be used for various products such as one-piece and blouse.

Since the method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to the present invention is as described above, according to these inventions, a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric which is thin and has a drape property is obtained. Various feelings can be easily set.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a photograph showing a fiber shape representing an embodiment of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a photograph showing another fiber shape.

FIG. 3 is a photograph showing another fiber shape.

FIG. 4 is a photograph showing another fiber shape.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁷ Identification symbol FI Theme coat ゛ (Reference) D06M 101: 32 D06M 9/04

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A coated elastic yarn in which a polyurethane elastic yarn is coated with a polyester yarn B is used for one of a weft yarn and a warp yarn, and a polyester yarn C is used for the other.
A stretchable long-fiber woven fabric in which the polyester yarn B and the polyester yarn C are reduced in weight after weaving. 2. The stretchable long-fiber woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn B is 5 to 35% by weight and the weight loss rate of the polyester yarn C is 2 to 25% by weight. 3. Weaving using a coated elastic yarn having a polyurethane elastic yarn as a core yarn and a polyester yarn B as a sheath yarn as one of a weft yarn and a warp yarn, and weaving using a polyester yarn C as the other yarn. And a method for producing a stretchable long-fiber woven fabric in which a polyester yarn C is reduced in weight.