ITTO20011053A1 - USE OF GLUTAMATED CAPRILOIL E-OR HYDROLY CAPRILOIL SALTS OF E-OR RICE WHEAT PROTEINS IN THE FORMULATION OF DETERGENT OR DETERGENT COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Description

Description of the industrial invention entitled: Use of capryloyl glutamate and / or capryloyl hydrolyzate salts of wheat and / or rice proteins in the formulation of detergent or cosmetic compositions, and compositions containing such salts "

DESCRIPTION

The present invention relates to a detergent or cosmetic composition endowed with sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor properties at the same time endowed with moisturizing and self-preserving properties.

The use of caprylic acid derivatives is known in the formulation of cosmetic or detergent compositions with sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor properties. However, often the problem of commonly used derivatives is that of excessively delipidising the stratum corneum of the skin by acting as a solvent on the functional lipids contained therein and at the same time removing the water-soluble substances present on it. All this causes excessive dryness for the skin and brittleness for the hair, problems that are commonly solved by adding appropriate moisturizing agents to the formulations.

In the formulation of cosmetic detergent compositions in general it is also necessary to add preservative agents which have the function of preserving the composition from pollution by bacteria and other microorganisms, such as for example fungi and yeasts, which can cause infections in humans. However, the disadvantage associated with the use of preservative agents is that in order to be effective they must often be used at concentrations that are irritating or sensitizing to the tissues they come into contact with.

The present invention therefore has the purpose of providing a detergent or cosmetic composition, endowed with the functional properties indicated above (ie, sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor), which does not have the aforementioned disadvantages.

This purpose has been achieved by the present inventories, which have identified derivatives of caprylic acid which, when formulated in detergent or cosmetic compositions, are not only capable of carrying out a sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor activity, but at the same time they are also capable of conferring moisturizing and self-preserving properties to said compositions.

These derivatives are the salts of capriloyl glutamate and capriloyl hydrolyzate of wheat and / or rice proteins.

The capryloyl glutamate salts can be obtained by the Schotten-Baumann reaction, by reacting the amino group of the glutamic acid with capryloyl chloride in a basic environment, according to the following reaction scheme:

Similarly, the hydrolyzed capryloyl salts can be obtained through the Schotten-Baumann reaction, by making the amino groups present on the hydrolyzate react with capryloyl chloride in a basic environment, according to the following reaction scheme:

where R is the peptide residue obtainable by hydrolysis of wheat and / or rice proteins.

This peptide (or hydrolyzed) residue is obtained by acid hydrolysis (with HCl) of gluten (wheat) and / or husk (rice) and subsequent filtration to separate the product obtained from the sludge.

As an alternative to chemical hydrolysis, enzymatic hydrolysis can also be used, using the amylase and protease enzymes.

The product obtained from hydrolysis is a mixture of peptides having a molecular weight between 1000 and 4000 Dalton. In the context of the present description, this product will sometimes be referred to as a "peptide residue" and at times as a "hydrolyzate of wheat and / or rice proteins".

During the Schotten-Baumann reaction the dissociated carboxylic groups present are neutralized by salification with a base chosen according to the desired salt, for example NaOH or KOH. Alternatively, to obtain the salt of a weak base such as TEA, the sodium or potassium salt is brought to pH 2.0-3.0 with phosphoric acid to obtain the acid form and subsequently dissolved in water and neutralized with the base. desired.

In the salts described above, the dissociated carboxylic groups are preferably neutralized with cations selected from the group consisting of: cations belonging to the alkali metal group or other monovalent cations, such as Cu <+>; cations belonging to the alkaline earth metal group or other divalent cations, such as Pb <2+>; trivalent cations such as Al <+ *>; polyvalent cations such as Sn <4+>; N3⁄4 <+> or amino bases selected from triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 2-aminobutanol, aminoethylpropanediol, arginine, lysine, omitin, aminomethylpropanol, aminomethylpropanediol and 2-hydroxymethylpropanediol propanediol. Such nautralizing cations can also be used in combination with each other.

An object of the invention is therefore the use of a compound which is capriloyl glutamate and / or hydrolyzed caprilol salt of wheat and / or rice proteins as a preservative and moisturizing agent and at the same time sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor, in the formulation of a detergent or cosmetic composition devoid of further preservative agent and further moisturizing agent, or comprising other preservative agehte and / or other moisturizing agent at an ineffective and / or insufficient concentration to confer the desired preservability and / or hydration characteristics in a similar or similar composition free of said compound.

Another object of the invention is a detergent or cosmetic composition endowed with moisturizing and self-preserving and at the same time sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor properties, comprising as a sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor agent a compound which is salt of capriloyl glutamate and / or capriloyl hydrolyzate of wheat and / or rice proteins, said compound also having a preservative and moisturizing effect, said composition therefore being devoid of further preservative and further moisturizing agent, or comprising other preservative and / or other moisturizing agent at an ineffective concentration and / or not sufficient to give the desired preservability and / or hydration characteristics in an analogous or similar composition without said compound.

The expression "analogous or similar composition without said compound" is intended to indicate a composition consisting of the same components in the same quantities as the composition of the invention, but which differs from this in that the salt of capriloyl glutamate and / or capriloyl hydrolyzate of wheat and / or rice proteins is replaced with an equal amount of another anionic surfactant.

In general, it can be understood that a detergent or cosmetic composition exhibits the desired preservability characteristics when it responds positively to the tests for evaluating the effectiveness of the preserving power. These tests are conducted according to the indications provided by the United States Pharmacopoeia (USP) and / or the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA). These methods, and others similar, involve the inoculation of the sample with microorganisms of different kinds and the aerobic microbial count of the same at different times to evaluate the level of survival.

The preservative efficacy of the salts used in the present invention was confirmed by challenge tests conducted on aqueous solutions of capriloyl glutamate in the form of sodium salt, inoculated with mixed inoculums (see example 1).

Tests, in addition to confirming the preservative efficacy of the compound, have also shown that it increases with decreasing pH.

Consequently, it is preferred that the cosmetic or detergent composition according to the invention has a pH lower than or equal to 5, even more preferably a pH in the range of 3.5 to 5.0.

The use of the salts indicated above in the formulation of detergent or cosmetic compositions thus allows to eliminate or in any case substantially reduce the concentration of the usual preservative agents, the concentration of which, if present, will in any case be lower than the threshold of irritating and / or sensitizing activity.

Among the preservative agents commonly used in the detergent or cosmetic compositions of the known art but absent in the composition according to the invention, or at most present in non-irritating or non-preservative concentrations, there are for example formaldehyde, chlorine, hypochlorites, chlorine-releasing compounds, dioxide chlorine, iodine and iodophores, phenol, cresol, chlorocresol, amphoteric contrasts with preservative characteristics, chlorhexidine, peracetic and dehydroacetic acid, mercury compounds, alcohols, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, boric acid, formic acid, propionic acid and salts derived therefrom, bronopol, 5-bromo-5-nitrodioxane, esamethylenetetramine, DMDM hydantoin, various hydantoins such as MDM hydantoin, chloracetamide, ureas such as imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea, inorganic sulphites, triclosane, usolinones, isothiazones salts, chlorophene, hexachlorophene, dichlorophene, bromochlorophene, trichlorocarbon, cloflucarban, classified benzamidines and as preservatives, amines classified as preservatives, dimethyloxazolidine, ethyl bicycloxazolidine, dimethylhydroxymethylpyrazclo, polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, methyl dibromoglutaronitrile, glyceryl monolaurate and their mixtures.

The non-irritating or non-preservative concentration varies depending on the compound considered, and can be easily determined by the expert in the field since the compounds listed above are all known and usually used in cosmetics as preservatives.

In general, it can be understood that a cleansing or cosmetic composition has the desired hydration characteristics when it is capable of obviating the symptoms and manifestations of dry skin and hair (according to the definition of "moisturizing compound" in "A short Textbook of Cosmetology", K. F. De Polo, the 1998 edition).

The salts used in the present invention exhibit such moisturizing properties.

The molecules of capriloyl glutamate and hydrolyzed capriloyl, once in contact with the skin, break down into glutamate and hydrolyzed on one side, and fatty acid on the other.

Both gram and rice hydrolyzed proteins (as well as glutamic acid have hydrating properties.

The hydrolyzed proteins, in fact, in contact with the skin form a continuous protective layer on the horny layer of the same, protecting it from external aggressions and increasing its hydration by decreasing TEWL (Trans Epidermal Water Loss). Furthermore, these hydrolyzed proteins are a source of amino acids, which make up 40% of the physiological moisturizing factor (NMF). Glutamic acid, on the other hand, enters a series of biological cycles, contributing to correct skin hydration and the maintenance of natural skin acidity thanks to the two carboxy groups. In fact, it constitutes 15% of keratins and becomes part of the ε (γglutamyl) lysine bond present in the involucrin and keratolin proteins that make up the cell membrane of the corneocyte. It can be transformed into PCA, one of the components of NMF, which is a set of water-soluble substances responsible for proper hydration, as well as into proline and hydroxyproline (these two amino acids are essential for the synthesis of collagen and elastin). Acylglutamates also act as selective solvents for the main component of sebum, namely squalene, thus leaving the functional lipids of the stratum corneum that control hydration unaltered.

The caprylic acid component will instead carry out its peculiar action of controlling the growth of pathogenic microorganisms, dandruff, body odor, sebum production and skin disorders.

The use of capryloyl glutamate and / or hydrolyzed capryloyl salts of wheat and / or rice proteins in the formulation of the detergent or cosmetic compositions according to the invention thus allows to eliminate or in any case substantially reduce the addition of moisturizing, emollient or soothing factors. for the skin, the concentration of which, if present, will in any case be lower than the efficacy threshold for the moisturizing activity.

Among the moisturizing agents commonly used in the detergent or cosmetic compositions of the known art but absent in the composition according to the invention, or at most present in ineffective concentrations, there are for example glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol with molecular weight from 200 to 600, Sorbeth-30, urea, lactic acid and its salts, mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, orotic acid, lanolin, petrolatum, mineral oils, occlusive substances that moisturize the skin preventing the evaporation of water, and their mixtures.

The ineffective concentration for hydration varies depending on the compound considered, and can be easily determined by the skilled in the art since the compounds listed above are all known and usually used in cosmetics as moisturizers.

The detergent or cosmetic compositions according to the invention preferably comprise an aqueous medium, although the salts used can also be used in emulsions

The total concentration of the capryloyl glutamate and / or capryloyl hydrolyzate salts of wheat and / or rice proteins in the compositions according to the invention is preferably a concentration in itself sufficient to confer the desired preservability, activity and hydration characteristics, i.e. such as to confer these characteristics in combination with other preservative and / or moisturizing agents present in concentrations not sufficient in themselves to confer these characteristics

This concentration is preferably between 0.5% and 25% by weight in active substance with respect to the total composition, more preferably between 1.5% and 15% by weight in active substance. In this concentration range, in fact, the salts present are able to perform all their functions correctly.

The detergent or cosmetic compositions according to the invention can further comprise at least one further and distinct surfactant agent selected from anionic surfactants, such as for example alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts (for example sodium, magnesium, TEA, MEA and ammonium salts), starch / amidoether sulfates, salts of alkylsemisulfosuccinates and alkylsulfosuccinates, salts of alkyletherheesemisulfosuccinates and alkyletheresulfosuccinates, salts of acylamidosemisulfosuccinates and acylamidosulfosuccinates, salts of dodecylbenzenesulfonic -sulfonated olefins), carboxylated alkyl / alkyl ether salts, alkylphosphonates, phosphoric acid esters, acylisethionate salts; amphoteric surfactants, such as for example alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, amine and starch oxides, amphocarboxyacetates and amphocarboxydacetates, amphocarboxypropionates and amphocarboxydipropionates; non-ionic surfactants, such as various amides, ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated fatty amines, ethoxylated nonylphenols, APG (alkyl polyglucosides), AEG (alkylethoxyglucosides), esters / ethers of fatty acids with glycerol and / or ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated sugars, various ethoxylated / propoxylated esters and not, ethoxylated / propoxylated and non-ethoxylated fatty alcohols, silicone molecules; cationic surfactants containing for example at least one quatemized N atom.

Some products in which the compositions of the invention can be used are: shampoos, bubble baths, shower gels, dishwashers, liquid soaps, solid soaps, lotions, emulsions of various kinds, balms, products having simultaneously a cleansing and conditioning effect on skin and / or hair, oils, emollient milks and cleansers, face and / or body and / or hair creams, cleansers for intimate hygiene, brillantines, solutions for perms, hair dyes, toothpastes, medicated cosmetics, pharmaceutical products.

The following examples are provided for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: preservative efficacy test

To evaluate the preservative efficacy of the capriloyl glutamate sodium salt, a challenge test was conducted on a cosmetic composition comprising:

Sodium lauryl etheresulfate 20E (27% m.a.) = 37% Cocamidopropyl betaine (30% m.a.) = 5%

Sodium capriloyl glutamate (about 1.5% m.a.) = 5% Water = a 100%

pH = 5

The four mixed inocula shown in Table 1 below were prepared (gram + bacteria; gram- bacteria; yeast; filamentous fungi) and each of them was inoculated with a sample of the above composition.

The challenge test consists in checking the survival of the inocula over time; this survival is indicative of the storage capacity of the cosmetic product during the period of use by the consumer.

In particular, the survival of the inocula was verified after 24 hours, 7 days and 28 days from the inoculation. The 24-hour check represents a ciate in order to evaluate the speed of the preservative system, the 7-day check instead indicates the degree of risk of contamination of the product, while the 28-day check, as well as representing a confirmation of the previously obtained, it allows to highlight the possible formation of resistant strains.

The results obtained are shown in Table 2 below.

table2

Values obtained in inoculum survival controls expressed in colony-forming units per gram of product (u.f.c./g)

Through subsequent dilutions, the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of an aqueous solution at pH 5 of sodium capriloyl glutamate against some microorganisms involved in the etiology of dandruff and some skin diseases and related annexes was calculated. The results obtained are shown in Table 3 below.

<a> agent involved in the etiology of dandruff and many skin disorders

<b> agent involved in the etiology of acne

<c> agent that determines pathological events especially in individuals with compromised immune defenses; is one of the main protagonists of hospital infections Example 2: Moisturizing Face Cleaner without preservatives Sodium capriloyl glutamate (30% active matter): 6% Sodium Coconut amphodiacetate (26% active matter): 10% Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (65% active matter): 1.5% PEG-7 glyceryl coccoate: 2%

Citric acid: quantum satis at pH 5.0

NaCl: just enough

Color and Aroma: just enough

Water: at 100%

Example 3: Sebum-regulating face gel

Rice protein hydrolyzate capriloyl sodium (30% active matejria): 9%

Lauramidopropyl betaine (30% active matter): 20% Sodium coccoanphodiacetate (26% active matter): 3% Cocamidopropylamino oxide (30% active matter): 10% Citric acid: just enough at pH 5.0

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 4; Shower gel for athletes with deodorant effect Potassium capriloyl hydrolyzed wheat protein (30% active matter): 6%

Magnesium lauryl ethoxysulfate ethoxylate 2 moles (25% active matter): 15%

Lauramidopropyl betaine (30% active matter): 20%

PEG-7 glyceryl coccoate: 1%

Citric acid: just enough at pH 4.5

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 5: Intimate cleanser

Wheat protein hydrolyzed capriloyl triethanolamine salt (30% active matter): 7%

Sodium capriloyl glutamate (30% active matter): 3% Magnesium laurylethoxysulfate ethoxylate 2 moles (25% active matter): 10%

Cocamidopropyl betaine (30% active matter): 6% Disodium laurylethoxysemisulfosuccinate (30% active matter): 4%

Citric acid: quantum satis at pH 3.5 - 4.0

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 6: Anti-dandruff shampoo

Sodium capriloyl glutamate (30% active matter): 10% Sodium laurylethoxy sulphate ethoxylate 3 moles 27% active matter): 35%

Lauramidopropyl betaine (30% active material): 5% Ammonium lauryl sulphate (26% active material): 9% Cocamide DEA (100% active material): 1%

Citric acid: just enough at pH 4.5

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 7: Preparation for foot hygiene Potassium capriloyl hydrolyzed rice protein 30% active matter): 5%

Sodium laurethoxysulfate ethoxylate 3 moles 27% active matter): 30%

Potassium capriloyl glutamate (30% active matter): 3% Triethanolamine lauryl sulfate (39% active matter): 6% Citric acid: quantum satis at pH 4.2

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 8: Anti-dandruff shampoo

Potassium capryloyl glutamate (30% active matter): 8 ^ Lauramidopropyl betaine (30% active matter): 10% Sodium laurethoxysulfate ethoxylate 3 moles 27% active matter): 10%

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate (65% active matter): 1% Ammonium lauryl sulfate (26% active matter): 10% Citric acid: just enough at pH 5.0

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Example 8: Hand washing

Sodium capriloyl hydrolyzed wheat protein 30% active material): 8%

Sodium laurethoxysulfate ethoxylate 2 moles 27% active matter): 20%

Cocamidopropyl betaine (30% active matter): 4%

Citric acid: quantum satis at pH 4.0

NaCl, color, perfume and water: 100%

Claims (11)

CLAIMS 1. Cleansing or cosmetic composition with moisturizing and self-preserving and at the same time sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor properties, comprising as sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor agent salt of capriloyl glutamate and / or capriloyl hydrolyzate of wheat and / or rice proteins, said salt also having a preservative and moisturizing effect, said composition being therefore devoid of further preservative agent and additional moisturizing agent, or comprising other preservative agent and / or other moisturizing agent with an ineffective and / or insufficient concentration to confer the preservability characteristics and / or hydration desired in a similar or similar composition free of said salt. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein said salt is selected from the group consisting of: salts with alkali metal cations or other monovalent cations such as Cu <+>; salts with alkaline earth metal cations or other divalent cations such as Pb <a +>; salts with trivalent cations such as Al <3+>; salts with polyvalent cations such as Sn <4> \ - salts with NH4 <+> or with an amino base chosen from triethanolamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, 2 aminobutanol, aminoethylpropanediol, arginine, lysine, ampropanolamine, amethyl methylamine, aminine -amino-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol; and their combinations. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising an aqueous medium. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, having a pH value lower than or equal to 5. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said further moisturizing agent is selected from the group consisting of: glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol with molecular weight from 200 to G00, Sorbeth-30, urea, lactic acid and its salts, mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate, orotic acid, lanolin, petrolatum, mineral oils, occlusive substances that moisturize the skin preventing the evaporation of water, and their mixtures. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said further preservative agent is selected from the group consisting of: formaldehyde, chlorine, hypochlorites, chlorine releasing compounds, chlorine dioxide, iodine and iodophores, phenol, cresol, chlorocresol, amphoteric compounds with characteristics of preservatives, chlorhexidine, peracetic and dehydroacetic acid, compounds of mercury, alcohols, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, boric acid, formic acid, propionic acid and salts derived from them, bronopol, 5-bromine-5 -nitrodioxane, hexamethylenetetramine, DMDM ìdantoin, various hydantoins such as MDM, hydantoin, chloracetamide, ureas such as imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea, inorganic sulphites, trichlosane, parabens, isothiazolinones, usnìc acid, chlorofuclorene, chlorofuclorene, chlorofuclorene, chlorofuclorene and its salts , benzamidines classified as preservatives, amines classified as preservatives, dimethyloxazolidine, ethyl biclooxazolidine, thylhydroxymethylpyrazole, polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, methyl dibromoglutaronitrile, glyceryl monolaurate and their mixtures. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising a further and distinct surfactant agent selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures. 8. Composition according to claim 7, wherein said further and distinct surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laurylethoxysulfate and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the concentration of said salt is in the range of 0.5 to 25% by weight of active matter with respect to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein said concentration is in the range of 1.5 to 15% by weight of active matter. 11. Use of capriloyl glutamate and / or capriloyl hydrolyzed salt of wheat and / or rice proteins as a preservative and moisturizing agent and at the same time sebum-regulating, anti-dandruff and / or anti-odor, in the formulation of a detergent or cosmetic composition as defined in any of the previous claims.