ITRM20090123A1 - ACTIVE LIQUORICE INGREDIENT FOR PROTECTIVE AND MOISTURIZING COSMETIC CREAMS, AND ITS PREPARATION PROCEDURE - Google Patents

Description

DESCRIPTION

Attached to a patent application for INDUSTRIAL INVENTION having the title

ACTIVE INGREDIENT WITH LICORICE FOR CREAMS

PROTECTIVE AND MOISTURIZING AND ITS PROCEDURE

OF PREPARATION

The present invention relates to a licorice active ingredient for protective and moisturizing cosmetic creams. It also relates to a process for the preparation of that ingredient.

US patent application No. US 2007/0269387 describes a humectant applicable to many types of cosmetic preparations, which has a moisturizing activity but does not give the unpleasant "sticky" sense, typical of these substances, after application on the skin. . The aforementioned patent application speaks of a lack of unpleasant sensations on the skin, but also refers, rightly, to the pleasant sensation, perceptible above all on the lips and eyelid bags, of a "right tone" of the skin structures. According to the cited patent application, these objectives would be achieved thanks to the addition, to the various cosmetics mentioned, of alpha + glycosyl glycyrrhizin as an active ingredient. Alpha + glycosyl glycyrrhizin is a compound consisting of glycyrrhizin extracted from the licorice plant to which an equimolar residue of glucose is linked through an alpha bond.

The author of the present invention has noted that licorice (so called here for simplicity, while the roots and stolons of the plant are properly indicated by this name), has a similar + cortisone action, including the side effects of cortisone. This means that it can be an ingredient in the formulation of a cosmetic cream capable of counteracting redness and itching, but it causes the known negative effects of steroids, such as excessive imbibition of liquids in the various body areas with the formation of edema, thinning of the human skin. and skin appendages such as nails, and decreased ability to react to stress. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to prevent the negative effects deriving from the introduction of licorice as an active ingredient in the formulation of a cosmetic cream.

The author of the present invention has noticed, after in-depth studies, that licorice loses its negative effects when combined with components of some orchidaceae, in particular Vanilla Planifolia. The berries of the fruits of this orchid are able to partially dilute the negative effects of licorice, provided that the alcoholic extract, obtained through alcoholic maceration, follows very specific rules, which are those described below in this application for patent.

The active ingredients thus obtained, by combining some licorice roots and some berries of the Vanilla Planifolia fruits in the alcoholic macerate, possess the anti + inflammatory properties required of an anti + redness and anti + itchy cosmetic cream. This cream is also an effective moisturizer because the active ingredients obtained from Glycyrrhiza Glabra and Vanilla Planifolia are then emulsified into new concept base creams. The alcoholic macerate, which makes it possible to obtain the active ingredients of licorice with anti + inflammatory action (including glycyrrhetic acid), also dilutes the negative effects of Glycyrrhiza Glabra. As mentioned above, the latter are constituted, exactly as in cortisone drugs, by excessive imbibition of liquids in the various parts of the body with the formation of edema, thinning of the human skin and skin appendages such as nails, and a decrease in the ability to react to stress. The active ingredients of licorice, especially those with an anti + inflammatory action similar to + cortisone such as glycyrrhizic acid and glycyrrhetic acid, in fact affect the hormonal axis hypothalamus + pituitary + adrenal. And since some hormones produced by the adrenal gland are linked to a reaction that serves to react to stress, Glycyrrhiza Glabra could reduce the human body's ability to react to stress, if it were not used together with the active ingredients of Vanilla Planifolia. The preparation, described below, which combines Glycyrrhiza Glabra and Vanilla Planifolia in the alcoholic macerate thus dilutes the negative effects of licorice, and allows to obtain, after the emulsion in the base cream, a cosmetic product without negative effects.

Therefore, in a first aspect of the present invention a licorice active ingredient is provided for protective and moisturizing cosmetic creams, obtained as an alcoholic macerate of ethyl alcohol, licorice, vanilla and cane sugar.

Preferably, in the alcoholic macerate the ethyl alcohol, with an alcohol content between 80 and 95 °, is between 70 and 80%, the licorice between 0.70 and 0.85%, the vanilla between 0.65 and 0.80% , and cane sugar between 21 and 26%. The percentages are by weight.

More preferably, the content in the alcoholic macerate is 74.59% for ethyl alcohol, 0.78% for licorice, 0.72% for vanilla, and cane sugar between 23.91%. The percentages are by weight.

In a second aspect of the invention there is provided a process for preparing a licorice active ingredient for protective and moisturizing cosmetic creams, in which an alcoholic macerate is made in the following steps:

placing ethyl alcohol, licorice extract, and vanilla in a container;

addition of cane sugar to what has already been prepared;

keeping the preparation in the container in minimal communication with the outside, in a cool and dry place, away from light;

subsequent filtration of the preparation;

storage of the filtered product, protected from light and in a refrigerated environment, for a period of storage time before its incorporation into a cosmetic cream.

An example is given below in which the steps taken in a laboratory for galenic preparations in order to obtain the effective licorice ingredient according to the present invention are described. The industrial preparation methodologies can be easily obtained by analogy.

Example

1) Pour one liter of ethyl alcohol preferably at 95 degrees into a two-liter beaker (specific weight: 0.78 kg / l). The glass beaker can be replaced by a metal container made of an inert alloy, in order to avoid the risk of allergic sensitization.

2) On the bottom of the beaker are placed, protected by a net, 8 g of licorice extract (in powder form), obtained from the roots of the plant. It is preferable that the roots of the plant are from Glycyrrhiza Glabra.

3) 3 Vanilla Planifolia pods are also placed under a net, so that they do not emerge. The height of the pods must reach half the height of the beaker. A vanilla pod of this proportion weighs on average around 2.5 grams, so the total weight of the three pods will be around 7.5 g. By analogy, it will therefore be easy to derive the industrial quantities.

4) Add 250 mg of panela sugar, a cane sugar, and leave everything to macerate for at least 20 days, after having closed the container with filter paper. Filter paper is used to allow the maceration preparation to have its own transpiration, even if minimal, and to receive small quantities of air. By analogy, the filter paper can be replaced with other covers with very dense meshes adaptable to the tops of larger containers. The entire container is left in a cool and dry place, away from light, at a temperature not lower than 7 ° C and not higher than 15 ° C. It would be advisable to control the constancy of the temperature by means of thermostats.

5) After 20 days, careful and complete filtration is carried out, possibly with sterile filters because the final sterility must in any case be ensured.

6) The mixture thus obtained must be stored protected from light and in a refrigerated environment at a temperature not exceeding 4 ° C, for at least 3 days before incorporating it into a cream.

After filtration, about 85% of the starting ingredients remained, there was an evaporation of alcohol by 7%, the panela sugar dissolved only for 7%, and then the rest was thrown away. filtration, the licorice powder dissolved by 0.31%, and the rest was thrown away with filtration; only 0.1% of the vanilla, because the vanilla pods were thrown away whole after filtration.

The substance thus obtained can constitute an effective ingredient of a cosmetic cream, of which some alternative formulations are given below.

FORMULATION 1

Base Cream 90%;

Macerate of Glycyrrhiza glabra and Vanilla planifolia 7%;

Tea tree oil 1,5%;

Propolis T. M. 1.5%.

The base cream can be Essex Base Cream, or Cetomacrogol or other base cream. Very conveniently, this base cream can be that of the same inventor discussed in a co + pending patent application.

For preparation, the base cream is slowly mixed with the licorice and vanilla macerate. At least one day of installation is waited for the product to stabilize.

At the end of the exposure time, tea tree oil and propolis are added, mixing very slowly.

It is placed under vacuum with special machinery.

FORMULATION 2

Base Cream (as for formulation 1) 88%;

Macerate of Glycyrrhiza glabra and Vanilla planifolia 7%;

Colloidal extract of oats 2%;

Tea tree oil 1,5%;

Propolis T. M. 1.5%.

The colloidal oat extract is added at the same time as the last two ingredients.

Cosmetic cream formulations are more fully described in co-pending patent applications of the same inventor.

Claims (10)

CLAIMS 1. Licorice active ingredient for protective and moisturizing cosmetic creams, characterized by the fact that the active ingredient is the product obtained as an alcoholic macerate of ethyl alcohol, licorice, vanilla and cane sugar. 2. Active ingredient according to claim 1, wherein the ethyl alcohol has an alcohol content of 80-95 °. Active ingredient according to claim 1, wherein the cane sugar is panela sugar. 4. Active ingredient according to claim 1, wherein in the alcoholic macerate the ethyl alcohol is between 70 and 80%, the licorice between 0.70 and 0.85%, the vanilla between 0.65 and 0.80%, and cane sugar between 21 and 26% by weight. 5. Active ingredient according to claim 4, wherein the content in the alcoholic macerate is for ethyl alcohol 74.59%, for licorice 0.78%, for vanilla 0.72%, and for cane sugar 23 91% by weight. 6. Preparation process of an active ingredient with licorice for protective and moisturizing cosmetic creams, characterized by the realization of an alcoholic macerate in the following steps: - placing ethyl alcohol, licorice extract, and vanilla in a container; - addition of cane sugar to what has already been prepared; - keeping the preparation in the container in minimal communication with the outside, in a cool and dry place, away from light, for a holding time; - subsequent filtration of the preparation; - storage of the filtered product, protected from light and in a refrigerated environment, before its incorporation into a cosmetic cream. 7. Process according to claim 6, wherein the holding time is at least 20 days. 8. Process according to claim 6, wherein the preparation is kept at a temperature not lower than 7 ° C and not higher than 15 ° C. 9. Process according to claim 6, wherein the filtrate is stored at a temperature not exceeding 4 ° C. 10. Process according to claim 6, wherein the filtrate is stored for 3 days prior to its incorporation into a cosmetic cream,