ITMI20012402A1

ITMI20012402A1 - METHOD FOR THE REALIZATION OF A TEXTILE ITEM

Info

Publication number: ITMI20012402A1
Application number: IT2001MI002402A
Authority: IT
Inventors: Andrea Fenati
Original assignee: Sincronia S R L
Priority date: 2001-11-14
Filing date: 2001-11-14
Publication date: 2003-05-14
Also published as: WO2003042443A1

Description

Descrizione di un brevetto d'invenzione a nome: Description of an invention patent in the name:

Forma oggetto della presente invenzione un metodo per la realizzazione di un articolo tessile e un articolo tessile realizzato secondo detto metodo, conformi alla parte precaratterizzante delle relative rivendicazioni indipendenti. The object of the present invention is a method for manufacturing a textile article and a textile article made according to said method, conforming to the pre-characterizing part of the relative independent claims.

Nel presente contesto con articolo tessile è da intendersi un qualsiasi articolo comprendente due o più tessuti vincolati tra loro lungo prefissate linee estremali, ad esempio per cucitura, delimitanti il profilo dell'articolo stesso; in particolare detti articoli tessili sono articoli di abbigliamento . In the present context, a textile article is to be understood as any article comprising two or more fabrics bound together along predetermined extremal lines, for example by sewing, delimiting the profile of the article itself; in particular said textile articles are articles of clothing.

Le operazioni di cucitura delle diverse parti degli articoli tessili incidóno notevolmente sui tempi e costi di realizzazione degli articoli stessi . The sewing operations of the different parts of the textile articles have a considerable impact on the times and costs of production of the articles themselves.

Scopo della presente invenzione è quello di ridurre le operazioni di cucitura degli articoli tessili noti, così da ridurre i tempi e costi complessivi necessari per il confezionamento degli articoli stessi. The object of the present invention is to reduce the sewing operations of the known textile articles, so as to reduce the overall times and costs necessary for the packaging of the articles themselves.

Questo ed altri scopi che appariranno evidenti ad un esperto del ramo vengono raggiunti da un metodo e da un articolo realizzato secondo tale metodo conformi alla parte caratterizzante delle relative rivendicazioni. This and other objects which will appear evident to a person skilled in the art are achieved by a method and an article made according to this method according to the characterizing part of the relative claims.

Per una migliore comprensione della presente invenzione si allegano a titolo esemplificativo, ma non limitativo disegni in cui: For a better understanding of the present invention, drawings are attached by way of example, but not of limitation, in which:

la figura 1 mostra una vista dall'alto di un articolo tessile secondo il trovato in una sua fase di lavorazione; Figure 1 shows a top view of a textile article according to the invention in one of its processing steps;

la figura 2 ne mostra una vista schematica in sezione, ingrandita, presa secondo la linea a 2/2 di figura 1; Figure 2 shows a schematic sectional view thereof, enlarged, taken along the line at 2/2 of Figure 1;

la figura 3 mostra una vista schematica prospettica di un articolo tessile realizzato secondo l'invenzione. Figure 3 shows a perspective schematic view of a textile article made according to the invention.

Con riferimento alle citate figure un articolo tessile secondo l'invenzione viene realizzato utilizzando un usuale metodo di tessitura Jacquard a rilievo semplice, lavorato con costruzione "tubica" a doppia frontura. Tale usuale metodo di tessitura permette di realizzare una "striscia" tubolare 6 in maglia che se stesa su di un piano presenta, un tessuto o velo superiore 1 ed uno inferiore 2 (figura 2) tra loro distinti. Per realizzare la "striscia" tuboalre 6 può essere utilizzata una qualunque macchina Jacquard nota, ad esempio una macchina Jacquard prodotta dalla società Morat modello Moratronic ovvero una macchina per maglia, circolare, Jacquard, elettronica, con finezza 20. Tale macchina viene, ad esempio, utilizzata con selezione meccanica degli aghi piatto, e selezione elettronica degli aghi cilindro, e con legatura di tipo 1/1 interlock. Secondo l'invenzione la macchina Jacquard viene fatta lavorare in modo tale da accoppiare tra loro il velo superiore 1 e quello inferiore 2 della "striscia" tubolare 6 solo in corrispondenza di un prefissato profilo 3 dell'articolo tessile che si vuole realizzare, e di lasciare distinti e separati tra loro i due veli 1 e 2 nelle rimanenti parti dei veli stessi. Più in particolare, con riferimento alle figure allegate, nel caso in cui l'articolo tessile che si vuole realizzare sia un maglione 4, la macchina Jacquard viene programmata in modo tale che i due veli o tessuti 1 e 2 risultino legati tra loro a formare un unico velo o tessuto 5 (figura 2), solo in corrispondenza della parte del profilo 3A-3F del maglione che non prevede aperture (indicate con 4AD in figura) . Tale profilo 3A-3F corrisponde, sostanzialmente, alle usuali linee di cucitura del pezzo frontale e posteriore di un usuale maglione. With reference to the aforementioned figures, a textile article according to the invention is made using a usual Jacquard weaving method with simple relief, worked with a double needle bed "tubic" construction. This usual weaving method makes it possible to make a tubular "strip" 6 in knitted fabric which, if spread over a surface, has an upper 1 and a lower 2 fabric or ply (Figure 2) which are distinct from each other. Any known Jacquard machine can be used to make the tubular "strip" 6, for example a Jacquard machine produced by the company Morat model Moratronic or a knitting machine, circular, Jacquard, electronic, with fineness 20. This machine is, for example, , used with mechanical selection of flat needles, and electronic selection of cylinder needles, and with 1/1 interlock tying. According to the invention, the Jacquard machine is made to work in such a way as to couple the upper web 1 and the lower web 2 of the tubular "strip" 6 together only in correspondence with a predetermined profile 3 of the textile article to be made, and of leave the two plies 1 and 2 distinct and separate from each other in the remaining parts of the plies themselves. More specifically, with reference to the attached figures, if the textile article to be made is a sweater 4, the Jacquard machine is programmed in such a way that the two plies or fabrics 1 and 2 are linked together to form a single ply or fabric 5 (figure 2), only in correspondence with the part of the profile 3A-3F of the sweater that does not have openings (indicated with 4AD in the figure). Said profile 3A-3F substantially corresponds to the usual sewing lines of the front and rear piece of a usual sweater.

Grazie al metodo sin qui descritto si è in grado di realizzare un articolo tessile comprendente due tessuti o veli tra loro sovrapposti, in cui le relative cuciture lungo il profilo dell'articolo stesso sono ottenute in modo automatico per tessitura. In tal modo la "striscia" tubolare 6 riportante il profilo del maglione, una volta tessuta deve solo essere tagliata lungo detto profilo per ottenere il maglione, che eventualmente, verrà rifinito nelle sue parti in cui sono previste le aperture 4A-D. Thanks to the method described up to now, it is possible to produce a textile article comprising two fabrics or plies superimposed on each other, in which the relative seams along the profile of the article itself are obtained automatically by weaving. In this way the tubular "strip" 6 showing the profile of the sweater, once woven, only needs to be cut along said profile to obtain the sweater, which will eventually be finished in its parts in which the openings 4A-D are provided.

Quando l'articolo viene tagliato lungo il suo profilo, il taglio viene, ad esempio, eseguito nella zona (indicata dalla freccia A di figura 2) immediatamente all'esterno rispetto alla porzione di articolo in cui i due veli 1 e 2 formano un unico tessuto. In tal modo la rifinitura dei profili 3A-3F non è più necessaria o è semplificata . When the article is cut along its profile, the cut is, for example, performed in the area (indicated by the arrow A in figure 2) immediately outside the portion of the article in which the two plies 1 and 2 form a single tissue. In this way the finishing of 3A-3F profiles is no longer necessary or simplified.

Come rappresentato in figura 1 gli articoli tessili possono essere realizzati in serie tra loro lungo un'unica striscia tubolare di tessuto a due veli, ma articoli di dimensioni minori potrebbero essere realizzati anche in parallelo tra loro. As shown in Figure 1, the textile articles can be made in series with each other along a single tubular strip of two-ply fabric, but articles of smaller dimensions could also be made in parallel with each other.

La macchina Jacquard viene programmata in modo di volta in volta differente a seconda del profilo dell'articolo tessile che si vuole realizzare, ovvero del particolare profilo 3A-F in cui i due veli 1 e 2 formano un'unico tessuto o velo 5. La programmazione delle macchine Jacquard per la realizzazione dei profili desiderati per gli articoli tessile non verrà descritta in dettaglio essendo convenzionale per l'esperto del ramo. The Jacquard machine is programmed in a different way from time to time depending on the profile of the textile article to be made, or the particular profile 3A-F in which the two plies 1 and 2 form a single fabric or ply 5. The programming of Jacquard machines for the production of the desired profiles for textile articles will not be described in detail as it is conventional for those skilled in the art.

Una volta programmata la macchina per eseguire il profilo 3A-3F desiderato, essa attraverso la lavorazione degli aghi sdoppia e lega i due veli o tessuti 1 e 2 nelle parti richieste. Once the machine has been programmed to execute the desired 3A-3F profile, it splits and binds the two plies or fabrics 1 and 2 in the required parts by working the needles.

Si vuole infine ribadire che la forma di realizzazione sin qui illustrata è stato fornita a titolo puramente esemplificativo e che sono possibili ulteriori varianti tutte rientranti nel medesimo concetto inventivo, così ad esempio, la macchina Jacquard potrebbe avere una finezza compresa tra 10 e 40 e/o prevedere una selezione meccanica degli aghi cilindrico ed elettronico degli aghi piatto, oppure entrambe elettroniche, e/o utilizzare qualsiasi tipo di armatura realizzabile su doppia frontura. Finally, we want to reiterate that the embodiment illustrated up to now has been provided purely by way of example and that further variants are possible, all falling within the same inventive concept, so for example, the Jacquard machine could have a fineness between 10 and 40 and / or provide a mechanical selection of the cylindrical and electronic needles of the flat needles, or both electronic ones, and / or use any type of armor that can be made on a double needle bed.

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Method for manufacturing a textile article comprising at least a first (1) and a second (2) stretch of fabric, superimposed on each other, in which said fabrics (1, 2) are rigidly constrained to each other at a plurality of predetermined lines (3A-3F) delimiting at least partially the profile of said article, characterized by the fact of making said two sections of fabric (1, 2) through a Jacquard-type weaving and of rigidly binding said two sections of fabric ( 1, 2) in correspondence of said predetermined lines (3A-3F) for weaving, in such a way said two fabrics (1, 2) in correspondence of said lines (3A-3F) form a single fabric (5), but are separated and distinct from each other beyond said lines (3A-3F).

2. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that the weaving is double needle bed or double ply.

3. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that the weaving is in simple relief.

4. Method according to claim 1 characterized by the fact that the weaving is of a tubular construction, ie that the two sections of fabric form a tubular body.

5. Method according to claim 1, characterized by using a Jacquard machine for circular knitting.

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the machine has a fineness between 10 and 40.

7. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the machine is set with mechanical selection of the flat needles and electronic selection of the cylinder needles and vice versa, or both electronic.

8. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the machine is used with interlock type binding and / or 1/1 needles, or any type of weave that can be made on a double needle bed.

Method according to claim 1, characterized by the fact of making a plurality of textile articles in series with each other along a single strip (6) of fabric.

10. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that to obtain the textile article the two fabrics (1, 2) are cut at the predetermined lines (3A-3F).

11. Method according to claim 10, characterized in that the two fabrics (1, 2) are cut in the outer portion with respect to the predetermined lines (3A-3F), ie in the portion in which the two fabrics are distinct.

12. Textile article comprising at least a first (1) and a second (2) stretch of fabric, superimposed on each other, in which the two fabrics (1, 2) are rigidly constrained to each other at a plurality of lines (3A- 3F) predetermined, delimiting at least partially the profile of said article, made according to the method of one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least in correspondence with said predetermined lines (3A-3F) the two fabrics form a single fabric (5).

13. Textile article according to claim 12, characterized in that the predetermined lines (3A-3F) correspond to the profile of an article of clothing.

14. Tubular textile element comprising a first (1) and a second (2) stretch of fabric superimposed on each other, in which the two fabrics (1, 2) are correspondence of a plurality of predetermined lines (3A-3F) delimiting, at least partially, the profile of a textile article, made according to the method of one or more of claims 1 to 11, characterized by the fact of providing a single tubular strip continuous line (6) comprising said two stretches of fabric (1,2) and having, arranged in series or parallel to each other, a plurality of sets of lines (3A-3F) in which each set defines a distinct or different textile article.