GB2309709A

GB2309709A - Knitted garments

Info

Publication number: GB2309709A
Application number: GB9701110A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Katsuhiko Sugita; Koyu Maenaka; Makoto Katashima; Hiroaki Kawasaki; Hiroshi Tazaki
Original assignee: Tsudakoma Industrial Co Ltd
Current assignee: Tsudakoma Corp
Priority date: 1996-01-30
Filing date: 1997-01-20
Publication date: 1997-08-06
Anticipated expiration: 2017-01-20
Also published as: ITMI962555A0; ITMI962555A1; IT1286441B1; GB9701110D0; GB2309709B; JPH09209247A

Abstract

The invention provides a knitted fabric which has a three-dimensional, knit portion of a smooth curve conforming to the figure of a wearer, this being achieved by kniting portions (44-50). The stitch density may be progressively changed in steps (44-50). The density values may be determined by using a camera to scan a wearer or doll's body and calculating the stitch settings by computer. A flat kniting machine may be used in which the needles have individual actuators.

Description

Knitted Fabric and Knitting Method of the Same BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention This invention relates to a fabric knitted threedimensionally and a knitting method for the knitted fabric.

2. Description of the Prior Art A knit product such as a sweater is desired to have a threedimensional configuration wherein portions thereof corresponding to convex and concave portions of the human body such as the waist, the bust, the hip, the scapulae, the elbows and the knees project or sink with projecting or sinking amounts corresponding to those of the human body portions.

Several methods are available to produce a three-dimensional knit product which conforms to the figure of a person to wear, and one of the methods is to knit a plurality of planar, that is, two-dimensional, knitted fabrics and sew them into a threedimensional product. However, a product obtained by such a method does not have a good appearance because several seaming lines are formed thereon. Further, the product does not provide a comfortable feeling to wear because any three-dimensional portion which corresponds to a projecting or sinking portion of a human body does not present a smooth curve.

According to another available method of producing a three-dimensional knit product, a knitted fabric having a three-dimensional knitted portion is knitted by differentiating the number of stitches among different courses or wales. However, a product obtained by such a method does not have a good looking because a fashion mark appears on the knitted fabric. Further, since some partial cramp is produced on the knitted fabric by the differentiation in number of stitches, a three-dimensional portion of the knitted fabric corresponding to a projecting or sinking portion of the human body does not present a smooth curve, and consequently, the knitted fabric is not comfortable to wear.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a knitted fabric which has a three-dimensional knit portion of a smooth curve conforming to the figure of a person who wears.

In order to attain the object described above, according to the present invention, there is provided a knitted fabric which includes a base knit portion and at least one three-dimensional knit portion, the three-dimensional knit portion having a stitch density or length different from that of the base knit portion. The knitted fabric is knitted by a knitting method wherein the three-dimensional knit portion is knitted with a stitch density having a value different from that of the base knit portion.

A three-dimensional knit portion which corresponds to a sinking portion of the human body such as the waist is knitted with a stitch density lower than that of the base knit portion so that a corresponding knitted fabric portion may sink with respect to the base knit portion. In contrast, another three-dimensional knit portion which corresponds to such a projecting portion of the human body such as the bust, the hip, a scapula, an elbow or a knee is knitted with a stitch density higher than that of the base knit portion so that a corresponding knitted fabric portion may project with respect to the base knit portion. The variation in stitch density can be achieved, for example, by varying the drawing amount of a knitting needle.

According to the present invention, since a threedimensional knit fabric having a smooth curve can be obtained, a knit product which fits the human body well and presents a good feeling to wear can be obtained. Further, since a three-dimensional knitted fabric can be knitted in a shorter time than where it is knitted otherwise varying the number of stitches, the efficiency in production is higher. Further, since the three-dimensional knitted fabric includes a reduced number of seaming lines and has no fashion mark as different from a three-dimensional knitted fabric which is knitted varying the number of stitches, it has a good looking.

The stitch density of the three-dimensional knit portion may exhibit a gradual or stepwise variation. In this instance, the stitch density of the three-dimensional knit portion is set based on three-dimensional dimensions determined in such a manner as hereinafter described. Particularly, the stitch density of the three-dimensional knit portion may be set to a value which exhibits a gradual or stepwise variation in accordance with a height dimension of the three-dimensional knit portion with respect to the base knit portion or to a value which varies in proportion to an angle of inclination of the three-dimensional knit portion in regard to the base knit portion.

A stitch density is determined, for example, based on threedimensional dimensions calculated directly or indirectly based on a result of measurement of dimensions of various portions of the human body from a person wearing a knit product, a doll or the like and also on looseness dimensions necessary for clothes. Those operations may be performed all manually or automatically using automated machines such as a television camera, a computer and so forth. In particular, the dimensions of the various portions of the human body may be measured using the television camera, and calculation of three-dimensional dimensions based on a result of the measurement with looseness dimensions taken into consideration and determination of stitch densities based on three-dimensional dimensions may be performed by the computer.

In any case, the three-dimensional dimensions may be determined from three-dimensional patterns produced based on paper patterns which are produced based on the result of measurement and the looseness dimensions, or may alternatively be determined from three-dimensional patterns produced based on the result of measurement and the looseness dimensions without producing such paper patterns, or else may be determined based on the result of measurement and the looseness dimensions without producing such three-dimensional patterns.

The above and other objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following description and the appended claims, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which like parts or elements are denoted by like reference characters.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B) are a front elevational view and a side elevational view, respectively, of a sweater made by using several knitted fabrics by the present invention; FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing a paper pattern for production of the sweater shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B); FIGS. 3(A), 3 (B) and 3(C) are schematic views showing three-dimensional patterns for the front body, back body and sleeve of the sweater shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B); FIGS. 4(A), 4(B) and 4(C) are diagrammatic views showing knitting patterns of the front body, back body and sleeve shown in FIGS. 3(A), 3(B) and 3(C), respectively; FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic view showing by an embodiment of a knitting design paper for the front body shown in FIG. 3(A); FIG. 6 is a similar view but showing an embodiment of a knitting design paper for the back body shown in FIG. 3(B); FIG. 7 is a diagrammatic view showing an embodiment of a knitting design paper for the sleeve shown in FIG. 3 (C); FIG. 8 is a schematic view illustrating a manner in which dimensions of different portions of the human body are picked up by means of an image pick up apparatus; FIGS. 9(A) and 9(B) are diagrammatic views illustrating a method of measuring dimensions of different portions of the human body when the portions of the human body are picked up by means of an image pick up apparatus; FIGS. 10(A) and 10 (B) are diagrams illustrating some data of different portions of the human body obtained by an image processing apparatus and showing projecting amounts at individual coordinate points in a Y-axis direction on the line of a coordinate value X5 and in an X-axis direction on the line of another coordinate value Yk, respectively; FIG. 11 is a diagram showing some maximum inclination values at different measuring points; FIGS. 12 and 13 are flow charts illustrating a procedure of calculating an inclination angle; FIG. 14 is a diagrammatic view showing a sweater in a worn condition; and FIG. 15 is a diagram showing a knit pattern.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Referring to FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), a sweater 10 is produced by seaming a front body 12, a back body 14, two sleeves 16 and a collar 18 together. Each of the front body 12, back body 14 and two sleeves 16 has a base knit portion 20 and a plurality of threedimensional knit portions 22 corresponding to projecting or sinking portions of the human body.

A projecting or sinking portion of the human body is a portion of the human body which projects or sinks from a portion corresponding to the base knit portion 20. Accordingly, a three-dimensional knit portion 22 is a portion which projects or sinks from the base knit portion 20. In the following description, however, it is assumed that, regarding the bust, the hip, the scapulae and the elbows as projecting portions of the human body, three-dimensional knit portions are knitted corresponding only to those projecting portions of the human body, and any portion which corresponds to a sinking portion of the human body such as the waist is not knitted as a three-dimensional knit portion, but is knitted by reducing the number of courses in comparison with the other portions.

The base knit portion 20 is a portion of a large area knitted into a plain stitch, a rib stitch or some other suitable stitch. On the other hand, each three-dimensional knit portion 22 is a portion knitted three-dimensionally in accordance with a projecting portion of the human body. Each three-dimensional knit portion 22 is surrounded by the base knit portion 20 and has a stitch density of a value different from that of the base knit portion 20. The stitch density or length of each three-dimensional knit portion 22 varies in accordance with a corresponding portion of the human body and varies in accordance with the figure of a person who wears the sweater 10.

In order to produce the sweater 10 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), dimensions of a plurality of portions of the human body are measured. The measuring step can be performed by measuring dimensions of a plurality of portions of the body of a person to wear or of a doll having a figure similar to that of the person to wear, using such measurement means as a tape measure. Those dimensions are three-dimensional dimensions of various portions of the human body such as circumferential dimensions of the bust, the body, the hip, the arms, the wrists and the elbows, the breadth of the chest, the breadth of the shoulders, the breadth of the elbows, the thickness of the chest, the thickness of the shoulders and the thickness of the elbows.

Results of the measurement are used to produce paper patterns 24, 26 and 28 shown in FIG. 2 for the front body, back body and sleeves. The paper patterns 24, 26 and 28 correspond to the front body 12, back body 14 and sleeve 16 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), respectively, and are made, based on the results of the measurement in dimension of the various portions of the human body, taking looseness dimensions into consideration.

The paper patterns 24, 26 and 28 obtained are used for construction of three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 shown in FIGS. 3(A) to 3(C) for the front body, back body and sleeves, respectively. The three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 correspond to the front body 12, back body 14 and sleeve 16 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), respectively, and are made, based on the corresponding paper patterns. FIGS. 3(A) to 3(C) show, in the left side, central and right side columns thereof, side elevational views, plan views and front elevational views, respectively. The three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 are produced in threedimensional shapes of the front body, back body and sleeve, respectively, when they are mounted on the human body.

The three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 obtained are used to determine two-dimensional dimensions and three-dimensional dimensions of the individual knit fabrics. The two-dimensional dimensions are lengthwise dimensions or widthwise dimensions of the individual portions on a two-dimensional coordinate system which does not include an axis in the projecting or sinking direction, and can be obtained, for example, by measuring the dimensions of the various portions of the three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 on the two-dimensional coordinate system. On the other hand, the three-dimensional dimensions are projecting amounts of the various portions on a three-dimensional coordinate system which includes the axis in the projecting direction, and can be obtained, for example, by measuring the dimensions of the various portions of the three-dimensional patterns 30, 32 and 34 on the three-dimensional coordinate system.

The three-dimensional dimensions obtained are used to set knitting patterns 36, 38 and 40 shown in FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C) for the front body, back body and sleeve. The knitting patterns 36, 38 and 40 correspond to the front body 12, back body 14 and sleeve 16 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), respectively. The knitting patterns can be made by dividing the human body into a plurality of stages, that is, knitting ranges, in accordance with projecting amounts and setting stitch densities based on the projecting amounts for the individual knitting ranges.

More particularly, each knitting pattern can be produced by setting contour lines which divide the human body into a plurality of knitting ranges based on projecting amounts of the human body, applying a section paper sheet to the contour lines and converting each of the ranges of the contour lines with the number of wales (number of knitting needles to be used) and the number of courses to set a knitting range.

The knitting patterns 36, 38 and 40 shown in FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C) have stitch densities of different ranges thereof set so that a projecting portion of the human body is divided into four ranges 44, 46, 48 and 50 in which the projecting amount with respect to a base knit portion range 42 is equal to or less than 3 cm, equal to or less than 6 cm, equal to or less than 8 cm and greater than 8 cm, respectively, and the stitch densities of the ranges 44, 46, 48 and 50 are 107 %, 114 X, 121 % and 128 X of a reference stitch density, that is, a stitch density (= 100 X) in the base knit portion range 42. Each range can be set, based on the values calculated as above, with starting and ending course numbers and starting and ending wale numbers thereof.

In the example shown in each of FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C), since the bust, hip, scapulae and elbows are regarded as projecting portions of the human body, a portion of the knitted fabric other than portions corresponding to those portions is formed as a base knit portion and the stitch density of the base knit portion is determined as a reference stitch density, and consequently, those knitting ranges described above are shown as having slitch densities higher than the reference stitch density. It is to be noted that, where the waist is treated as a sinking portion and also a three-dimensional knit portion corresponding to the waist is knitted, a knitting range in which the stitch density is less than 100 % is present at the portion of the knitted fabric corresponding to the waist. Each range for a rib stitch portion is denoted by reference numeral 52 in FIG. 4(A) to 4(C).

The two-dimensional dimensions mentioned above are used to produce knitting design papers (i.e. drawings or specifications) 54, 56 and 58 (refer to FIGS. 5, 6 and 7) for the front body, back body and sleeve, respectively. The knitting design papers 54, 56 and 58 correspond to the front body 12, back body 14 and sleeve 16 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B), respectively. Each of the knitting design papers 54, 56 and 58 is made as a knitting design paper which includes information of the number of knitting needles to be used, the number of courses, the number of narrowing stitches and the number of widening stitches required to knit a knitted fabric based on planar dimensions.

In FIGS. 5, 6 and 7, for example, 4CS signifies that four courses are to be knitted, and 242N signifies that knitting is performed with 242 knitting needles. Further, in FIGS. 5, 6 and 7, each expression signifies that, for each N courses, inside narrowing by A stitches and outside narrowing by El stitches are repeated X times. Therefore, for example, the following expression 3 x (1 + 2)/4 signifies that, for each four courses, inside narrowing by one (1) stitch and outside narrowing by 2 stitches are repeated three times.

A final knitting design paper is produced from data of the knitting patterns and the knitting design papers determined in such a manner as described above. The final knitting design paper can be made by adding data of the knitting patterns shown in FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C) to the knitting design papers made as above.

The final knitting design paper thus produced is used to produce final knitting information. The final knitting information includes information necessary to knit a knitted fabric corresponding to the three-dimensional dimensions and data of stitch densities, the number of knitting needles to be used, the number of courses, the number of stitches to be decreased for narrowing, the number of stitches to be increased for widening and so forth.

The final knitting information is set to a flat-knitting machine and is used for knitting operations of the front body 12, back body 14, sleeves 16 and collar 18 shown in FIGS. 1(A) and 1(B) by the flat-knitting machine. In each of the knitting operations, the stitch density is varied in accordance with the knitting pattern shown in FIG. 4(A), 4(B) or 4(C) midway of a course. The variation of the stitch density can be performed by varying the amount of a yarn drawn by a knitting needle.

For knitting of a knitted fabric of the present invention, a flat-knitting machine wherein the amount of a yarn drawn by a knitting needle can be set for each knitting needle to be used. For example, such a flat-knitting machine as disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,768,357, is used wherein an actuator is coupled to each knitting needle and a yarn carrier is driven to travel in accordance with a knitting plan while operations of the actualors are controlled in synchronism with the movement of the yarn carrier.

Each of the front body 12, back body 14 and sleeves 16 knitted in this manner includes a base knit portion 20 and at least one three-dimensional knit portion 22 and is a three-dimensional knitted fabric having a smooth curve. The front body 12, back body 14, sleeves 16 and collar 18 thus knitted are seamed into a knit product.

The sweater obtained in such a manner as described above fits the human body well and provides a comfortable feeling to wear since it is produced using three-dimensional knit portions having a stitch density or densities different from that of a base knit portion and having smooth curves. Further, where a three-dimensional knit fabric is knitted varying the stitch density, it can be knitted in a shorter time than where it is knitted varying the number of stitches, and accordingly, the production efficiency is higher. Further, since no fashion mark is produced on any three-dimensional knit fabric, the knitted fabric exhibits a better appearance. Besides, since the knit product has a reduced number of seaming lines, as compared with that of a three-dimensional knit fabric knitted using any other knitting method, it exhibits a good appearance.

In the embodiment described above, the steps of measuring dimensions of various portions of the human body, forming paper patterns, constructing three-dimensional patterns, determining twoand three-dimensional dimensions of the portions of the human body, setting knitting patterns, producing a knitting design paper and producing final knitting information are all performed by manual operation. However, all or at least one of those steps may be performed using an image processing apparatus, a computer or a like apparatus.

In the embodiment described above, the step of forming paper patterns may be omitted while three-dimensional patterns are calculated based on results of measurement of dimensions of various portions of the human body. Or, the step of forming paper patterns and the step of constructing three-dimensional patterns may be omitted while the step of determining two- and three-dimensional dimensions of the portions of the human body is performed based on results of measurement of dimensions of the portions of the human body and looseness dimensions.

Where an image processing apparatus, a computer or a like apparatus is used, paper patterns produced manually or threedimensional patterns produced manually based on results of measurement of dimensions of various portions of the human body may be picked up by an image pick up apparatus, and an output image signal from the imaging apparatus may be processed by the computer or the like to directly determine stitch densities of various portions of three-dimensional knit portions and other necessary data to produce final knitting information.

Looseness dimensions required for clothes are preferably added, in the step of producing paper patterns1 to results of measurement of dimensions of various portions of the human body so that paper patterns may have magnitudes equal to sums of the looseness dimensions and the results of measurement of dimensions of the various portions of the human body. However, the looseness dimensions may be added in some other step. Similarly, dimensions of margins to seam required for seaming may be added in any step.

Stitch densities of three-dimensional knit portions may be set in actual dimensions of stitches instead of percentages with respect to reference stitch densities. Further, instead of setting the stitch densities in a plurality of stages in accordance with projecting amounts of projecting portions of the human body, they may be set to values which exhibit a gradual increase in accordance with the projecting amounts of the projecting portions of the human body, that is, to values which exhibit an increase in proportion to such projecting amounts. Or,the stitch densities may be variably set to values which increase in proportion to inclination angles of the projecting portions of the human body, that is, in proportion to inclination angles of three-dimensional knit portions with respect to base knit portions.

As shown in FIG. 8, dimensions of various portions of the human body can be measured by picking up image of the human body or a doll 60 from different directions by means of an imaging apparatus 62, i.e. image pick up apparatus, such as a television camera, and processing an output image signal of the image picking up apparatus 62 by means of a computer. Further, based on results of the measurement, production of pattern papers, construction of three-directional patterns, determination of two- or threedimensional dimensions of the various portions of the human body, setting of knitting patterns, production of knitting design papers or production of final knitting information can be performed using a computer.

Similarly, three-dimensional patterns can be constructed by picking up image of paper patterns produced manually by means of an imaging apparatus and processing an output image signal of the imaging apparatus by means of a computer. Further, by processing the three-dimensional patterns obtained in this manner by means of the computer, determination of two- or three-dimensional dimensions of the various portions of the human body, setting of knitting patterns, production of knitting design papers and production of final knitting information can be performed by the computer.

Further, by picking up imageof three-dimensional patterns produced manually from a plurality of different directions by means of an imaging apparatus and processing an output signal of the imaging apparatus by means of a computer, two- or threedimensional directions of the various portions of the human body can be determined by the computer, and setting of knitting patterns, production of knitting design papers or production of final knitting information can be performed by the computer.

FIGS. 9(A) and 9(B) illustrate a manner in which the human body or doll 60 is imaged from a plurality of directions such as from the left and the right and/or from above and below by means of the imaging apparatus 62 and images obtained in this manner are processed by an image processing apparatus which includes a computer. In particular, FIG. 9(A) shows a three-dimensional coordinate system of the imaging apparatus, and FIG. 9 (B) illustrates a relationship between the human body or the doll 60 and a two-dimensional coordinate system of the imaging apparatus.

In FIGS. 9(A) and 9(B), the axis along the direction of the left and right of the human body, that is, the horizontal axis, is represented by X while the axis along the direction of the upward and downward direction of the human body or doll, that is, the vertical axis, is represented by Y, and the projecting direction of a projecting portion is represented by Z.

The image processing apparatus decomposes an image signal obtained by the imaging apparatus into a number of element pictures corresponding to the number of combinations of X coordinate values and Y coordinate values, that is, combinations of X1 to Xn and Y1 to Yn, and determines values of the element pictures in the Z-axis direction. Consequently, the values in the Z-axis direction are determined with regard to the X and Y directions.

FIG. 10(A) illustrates projecting amounts (values in the Z-axis direction) at individual coordinate points in the Y axis direction on a line of the coordinate value X5, and FIG. 10(B) illustrates projecting amounts (values in the Z-axis direction) at individual coordinate points in the X-axis direction on a line of the coordinate value Yk. Such data as seen in FIGS. 10(A) and 10(B) are used for setting of stitch densities which exhibit stepwise variations or setting of stitch densities which exhibit gradual variations and so forth.

Setting of stitch densities which exhibit stepwise variations can be performed, for example, by setting percentages of stitch densities of individual areas with respect to a reference stitch density as seen in FIGS. 10(A) and 10(B). In this instance, such knitting patterns as shown in FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C) may be produced simultaneously. Such processing may be performed by a computer.

FIGS. 11, 12 and 13 illustrate a manner in which threedimensional dimensions of a knitted fabric, that is, stitch densities, are set to values which increase in proportion to the inclination angle of a three-dimensional knit portion by means of an imaging apparatus and an image processing apparatus which includes a computer.

In particular, a plurality of measurement points are set first and projecting amounts (values in the Z-axis direction) at the measurement points are detected (step 100 in FIG. 12). The operation in step 1011 can be performed by setting a plurality of measurement lines in the X and Y directions as seen in FIG. 9(B), determining intersecting points of the measurement lines as measurement points, and obtaining projecting amounts at the measurement points based on an image signal from the imaging apparatus.

An example of a result of plotting with part of data obtained by execution of the step 100 is shown by a curve 70 in FIG. 11. The curve 70 indicates the projecting amount Z at each measurement point in the Y-axis direction on the line of the coordinate value X5. The curve 70 can be represented by the following generalized expression (1): Z = F(x, y) . ........ (1) Then, an inclination value at each measurement point is detected (step 101 in FIG. 12). The following two methods are available for the method of executing the step 101.

The first method calculates a maximum inclination value Z'NAX for each measurement point. The maximum inclination value Z'MAX at one measurement point can be determined by obtaining a plurality of inclination values Z' at the one measurement point and a plurality of ones of the measurement points adjacent to the one measurement point and obtaining a maximum value Z'MAX of the plurality of inclination values Z'. In other words, the maximum inclination value Z'MAX can be obtained by calculating the following equation (2): Z'MAX = F'(x, y)MAX .......... (2) The other method calculates inclination values Z'x and Z'y in the X and Y directions and calculating a square root of a sum of square values of the inclination values Z'x and Z'y. The inclination values in the X and Y directions can be calculated by substituting a value at each measurement point into the following equations (3) and (4) and differentiating the equations (3) and (4).

Zx = F(x) .......... (3) Zy = F(y) .......... (4) The inclination values in the X and Y directions can be o individual stitch densities are determined (step 105 of FIG. 13).

Each of the knitting ranges of the stitch densities is set with the number of courses and the number of wales similarly to the knitting patterns shown in FIGS. 4(A) to 4(C).

The knitting ranges of the stitch densities set in the manner such as described above are used for production of final knitting design papers (step 106 of FIG. 3). Particularly, the set knitting ranges of the stitch densities are used as additional information or modification information to the knitting design papers.

FIG. 14 illustrates the set ranges of the stitch densities and a sweater 76 produced finally when a section of the sweater 76 mounted imaginarily on the human body is taken horizontally along a plane at the location of the waist. As can be seen apparently from FIG. 14, when the sweater 76 is mounted on the human body, the range of the stitch density of 100 % corresponds to a boundary between the front and the back.

A knitting machine preferably used to implement the present invention may include a carriageless or camless flat-knitting machine which does not include a carriage for cams for reciprocating a plurality of knitting needles, a control unit for controlling the flat-knitting machine, a knitted fabric designing system for designing a fabric to be knitted, and a main controller.

In a carriageless flat-knitting machine, a plurality of knitting needles are individually reciprocated by respective actuators such as, for example, linear motors in synchronism with a movement of a yarn carrier. One of carriageless flat-knitting machines of the type just mentioned is disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,768,357.

The carriageless flat knitting machine includes at least one yarn carrier having one or more yarn guide holes, a plurality of front side knitting needles disposed parallelly on a front needle bed, a plurality of rear side knitting needles disposed parallelly on a rear needle bed, a plurality of actuators provided to correspond to the knitting needles for reciprocating the corresponding knitting needles, and driving sources provided individually to correspond to the yarn carriers for reciprocating the corresponding yarn carriers. Each of the actuators may be a dc linear motor. Each of the driving sources may be an electric motor with a speed reducer.

The front side knitting needles and the rear side knitting needles are disposed for movement in an intersecting relationship and are reciprocated in synchronism with a movement of a yarn carrier by a corresponding actuator in a pattern based on a predetermined knitting plan. The pattern of a reciprocating movement of each knitting needle can be represented as a diagram on a coordinate system wherein, for example, as seen in FIG. 15, the amount of movement of the knitting needle is represented on the ordinate with respect to the position 0 defined by the position of a knocking-over edge and the amount of movement of the yarn carrier or the time is represented on the abscissa. Such a pattern as just described is called cam chart, cam pattern, knit pattern, needle movement pattern and so forth. In the following description, a pattern of a reciprocating movement of a needle is referred to as "knit pattern".

The knit pattern shown in FIG. 15 indicates that the knitting needle standing by at the position of the knocking-over edge is first raised upwardly farther than the position of the knocking-over edge and then lowered by a predetermined distance toward the knocking-over edge in order to catch a knitting yarn, and then it remains for a predetermined period of time T at the position and then is moved downwardly to and farther than the position of the knocking-over edge, whereafter it is returned to the position of the knocking-over edge with the knitting yarn caught thereon and then stands by at the position. However, the knit pattern depends upon a fabric to be knitted.

The control unit includes a plurality of first controllers provided to correspond to the actuators for controlling the movements and positions of the corresponding actuators1 and a plurality of second controllers provided to correspond to the driving sources for controlling the rotations of the corresponding driving sources. The first and second controllers are provided by the numbers equal to the numbers of corresponding actuators and yarn carriers, respectively.

Each of the first controllers has a memory for storing operations of the first controller based on the predetermined knitting plan. Similarly, each of the second controllers has a memory for storing operations of the second controller based on the predetermined knitting plan.

The first and second controllers are connected to the common main controller which provides timing signals for operations to the first controllers, which perform position control of the knitting needles, in synchronism with operations of the second controllers, which perform position control of the yarn carriers.

The main controller is connected to a memory in which operations of the main controller based on the predetermined knitting plan are stored.

Data to be stored into the memories of the first and second controllers and the main controller are data based on the predetermined knitting plan and are produced based on the predetermined knitting plan by a knitted fabric designing system.

Data produced by the knitted fabric designing system are either supplied directly to the memories by communication means such as a data communication line or supplied indirectly to the memories via some other communication means such as a tape memory, a disk memory or a bubble memory.

Data stored in the memories of the first controller are position data of the corresponding actuators and hence of the corresponding knitting needles, knit pattern data and so forth for individual knitting courses. Data to be stored in the memories of the second controller are data of amounts of reciprocating movements, patterns of moving speeds and so forth of the yarn supply units and hence of the yarn carriers, which correspond to a plurality of knitting patterns, in the same knitting courses.

Data to be stored in the memory of the main controller are data for selection, for each knitting course, of the yarn supply units to be moved in corresponddence with a plurality of knitting patterns in the same knitting course, data of, when a plurality of yarn supply units are selected, an order of movement of and distances between the yarn supply units, data for selection of knitting needles to be operated in response to the positions of the yarn supply units, and so forth.

The first and second controllers operate, under the control of the main controller, the corresponding actuators and driving sources, respectively, based on data stored in the corresponding memories.

The knitted fabric designing system calculates, in the knitted fabric designing stage, a course No. or a wale No. in which the stitch density is to be changed and an amount of variation by which the stitch density is to be varied, and produces knitting data taking results of the calculation into consideration.

However, those data may alternatively be calculated and set in the knitted fabric designing system in advance.

The present invention can be applied not only to a sweater but also to a three-dimensional knitted fabric for any other knit product.

The invention having been now fully described, it will be apparent to one having an ordinary skill in the art that many changes and modifications can be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as set forth herein.

Claims

What Is Claimed Is:

1. A knitted fabric including a base knit portion and at least one three-dimensional knit portion, said three-dimensional knit portion having a stitch density different from that of said base knit portion.

2. A knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the stitch density of said three-dimensional knit portion exhibits a gradual or stepwise variation.

3. A knitting method for knitting a knitted fabric having a base knit portion and a three-dimensional knit portion, wherein said three-dimensional knit portion is knitted with a stitch density having a value different from that of said base knit portion.

4. A knitting method according to claim 3, wherein the stitch density of said three-dimensional knit portion exhibits a gradual or stepwise variation in accordance with a height dimension of said three-dimensional knit portion.

5. A knitting method according to claim 3, wherein the stitch density of said three-dimensional knit portion is set to a value proportional to an angle of inclination of said threedimensional knit portion.

6. A knitted fabric substantially as herein before described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

7. A garment as substantially as herein before described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

8. A knitting method substantially as herein before described.