GB2283763A - A garment production process and apparatus - Google Patents

Abstract

In the manufacture of garments such as brassieres and lingerie number of superimposed cloth layers (10) are cut by die press (24) with a cardboard sheet (25) interposed to ensure cutting of the bottom layer without damaging the anvil (18). A plurality of the cut pieces are releasably bound together in a bundle, eg by stapling, and the requisite number of bundles of different pieces are collected in a container and delivered sequentially to a number of sewing stations at respective stations a folded seam-cover tape is applied and elastic edging tape (45) is applied after passing through a tensioner (46) whose tension can be released and a folding guide (55). <IMAGE>

Description

"A Garment Production Process and Apparatus" This invention relates to a garment production process and apparatus, in particular for producing brassieres and other lingerie products.

According to the invention there is provided a garment production process comprising the steps: mounting a cardboard sheet on a plastic anvil plate of a cloth cutting press; leading one or more webs of cloth from a roll or rolls of cloth; forming a number of superimposed cloth layers from the web or webs; locating the superimposed cloth layers on the cardboard sheet; positioning a shaped material cutting die on top of the cloth layers with a cutting blade or blades of the die resting against the material; pressing the die towards the anvil through the layers of cloth to cut out garment pieces of a pre-desired shape; lifting the die away from the cloth and removing the shaped garment pieces from the cardboard sheet; stacking a number of the shaped garment pieces in bundles, each bundle containing a preset number of the shaped garment pieces;; releasably binding each bundle of shaped garment pieces; collecting a pre-desired number of bundles of associated shaped garment pieces required for forming a garment in a container; delivering the container sequentially around a number of sewing stations in turn; carrying out a sewing operation at each sewing station for progressively sewing a number of associated shaped garment pieces together at the sewing stations to form garments; and inspecting and packaging the garments.

In one embodiment of the invention the cloth is prepared for cutting by: leading a web of broad cloth from a roll; laying out a preset length of cloth from the web onto a table to form a base layer of cloth; drawing the web from the roil and folding the cloth back and forth over the base layer of cloth a preselected number of times to form the superimposed cloth layers; detaching an uppermost layer of the folded cloth from the web; and stapling the cloth layers together around a periphery of the cloth layers to securely fix the cloth layers together.

In another embodiment the cloth is prepared for cutting by leading a number of cloth webs from a plurality of rolls of cloth; overlying the webs to form the superimposed cloth layers; and aligning the webs in the superimposed cloth layers.

In a further embodiment the process includes the step of applying an elastic edging tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading an elastic edging tape from a supply roll; passing the tape through a tape tensioning device having means for frictionally engaging the tape for selectively applying a pre-desired tension to the tape as it is drawn from the tensioning device; passing the tape through a tape folder, folding the tape over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape; feeding the folded tape to a needle of a sewing machine; inserting a seam of a garment between the folded tape sides immediately upstream of the needle; and sewing the tape to the seam by stitching through both sides of the tape and the intermediate garment seam.

In another embodiment the process includes the step of applying a seam cover tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading the seam cover tape from a supply roll; folding the tape over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape; leading the folded tape to a needle of a sewing machine, passing the folded tape through a tape guide mounted adjacent the needle and immediately upstream of the needle for feeding the folded tape in correct alignment to the needle; feeding a garment seam to the needle in alignment with the tape; and sewing the tape to the garment seam.

In a preferred embodiment the tape is folded by folding each side of the tape inwardly toward a central longitudinal axis of the tape and then folding the tape inwardly again about a central longitudinal axis of the tape prior to delivering the folded tape to the needle of the sewing machine.

Conveniently the process may also include the step of simultaneously delivering a decorative band from a supply roll to the needle, and prior to sewing the tape to the garment seam inserting the band between the folded sides of the tape such that it projects outwardly of the tape when attached to the garment seam.

In a further embodiment the process Includes the step of applying a seam cover tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading the seam cover tape from a supply roll; passing the tape through a tape guide; feeding the tape from the tape guide to an associated pair of spaced-apart needles of a sewing machine, the needles located adjacent and immediately downstream of the tape guides; feeding the garment seam through a seam divider having means to part free outer ends of garment pieces joined by the seam and fold back the free edges flat against the garment pieces; delivering the seam to the needles together with the tape, passing the seam between the needles; and sewing the tape to the garment pieces covering the seam.

In another aspect the invention provides apparatus for carrying out the process substantially as hereinafter described.

The invention will be more clearly understood from the following description of some embodiments thereof, given by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which: Fig. 1 is a flow chart illustrating diagrammatically a brassiere and lingerie production process according to the invention; Fig. 2 is a side elevational view of cloth cutting apparatus used in the process; Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the cloth cutting apparatus; Fig. 4 is a detail sectional elevational view of portion of the cloth cutting apparatus; Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a cutting die used in the cloth cutting apparatus; Fig. 6 is a perspective view of another cloth cutting die used in the apparatus; Fig. 7 is a perspective view of portion of a sewing machine used in the process; Fig. 8 is a detail perspective view showing portion of the sewing machine;; Fig. 9 is a perspective view of portion of a sewing machine and an associated elastic tape tensioning device used in the process; Fig. 10 is a detail sectional elevational view of the elastic tape tensioning device; Fig. 11 is a perspective view of portion of a sewing machine incorporating a seam divider for carrying out a portion of the process; Fig. 12 is a perspective view of portion of a sewing machine incorporating a seam tape folder for carrying out portion of the process; Fig. 13 is a detail perspective view showing an outlet end of tape holder; and Fig. 14 is a detail perspective view of a decorative lace feeding device for use in association with the tape holder.

Referring to the drawings, a production process for brassieres and other lingerie according to the invention will be described. The various garment pieces required to make up each garment, including body fabric pieces, lace pieces and straps are cut from rolls of cloth material.

The formation of the lace pieces will be described with particular reference to Figs. 2 to 6. Four webs 10 of lace are led from associated lace supply rolls 11 which are rotatably mounted spaced-apart on a support frame 12.

Each roll 11 is rotatably mounted on a carrier bar 13 which slidably engages complimentary holes in associated upright support members 14 of the frame 12. The webs 10 drawn from the rolls 11 are overlaid and aligned to form four superimposed lace layers which are mounted in a cloth cutting machine 16.

The cloth cutting machine 16 has a plastics anvil plate 18 mounted on a carrier 19 supported on a bed 20 of the machine 16. Mounted above the anvil plate 18 is a press 22 which is rotatably mounted on the bed 20 for movement between an engaged position (Fig. 2) over the anvil plate 18 and a disengaged position (Fig. 3) to one side of the anvil plate 18. The press 22 is vertically movable to press a cutting die 24 through cloth located on the anvil plate 18. A problem arises with the cutting of stretch laces in that due to the elasticity of the lace the cutter 24 may not fully sever the lace webs 10. In this case the operator can manually cut any part of the webs 10 not properly cut by the cutter 24, however, this greatly slows down the production process.As an alternative the downward force applied by the press 22 can be increased to ensure the cutter 24 passes fully through the lace webs 10. A disadvantage of this is that the cutter presses into and defaces the upper surface of the anvil plate 18.

The working life of the anvil plate 18 is thus greatly shortened and as these are relatively expensive, the overall production cost is therefore increased. To overcome this problem, advantageously according to the invention a cardboard sheet 25 can be mounted on the anvil plate 18 between the web 15 and the anvil plate 18.

Corrugated cardboard sheeting has been found to be particularly effective. Upon operation of the press 22 to deliver the cutter 24 through the webs 10 the cutter passes through the webs 15 and into the cardboard sheet 25 which protects the anvil plate 18 from excessive wear, thus greatly extending the life of the anvil plate 18.

When the webs 10 have been cut the press 22 is moved to a retracted disengaged position as shown in Fig. 3 and the cutter 24 can be lifted away from the webs 10. The shaped garment pieces wormed by the cutter 24 can then be removed and the process repeated to provide additional shaped lace pieces. The lace pieces are stacked in bundles, each bundle being releasably bound.

Body fabric pieces are cut in similar fashion, however in this case a web of broad cloth is led from a supply roll and a preset length of cloth is laid out onto a table to form a base layer of cloth. The web is drawn from the roll and folded back and forth over the base layer of cloth a pre-selected number of times; typically 50 times, to form superimposed cloth layers. When the required number of cloth layers have been formed an uppermost layer of the folded cloth is detached from the web. A stapler is then used te insert staples around a periphery of the cloth layers to securely fix the cloth layers together to prevent relative movement of the cloth layers during cutting.The superimposed cloth layers are then mounted on a cardboard sheet on a plastic anvil plate of a cloth cutting press and a shaped die is pressed through the layers of cloth to cut out garment pieces of a pre-desired shape. In this fashion various body fabric pieces in a number of desirable shapes are formed. Each type of garment piece is stacked in bundles containing a preset number of the shaped garment pieces and each bundle is releasably bound.

Shoulder straps for the garments may also be prepared where appropriate, a number of the straps being led from reels together and cut into pre-desired lengths, a preset number of straps being bound together in bundles.

A pre-desired number of bundles of associated shaped body fabric pieces, lace pieces and straps required for forming a particular garment style are collected in a container.

The container is then delivered sequentially around a number of sewing stations in turn. At each sewing station a sewing operation is carried out for progressively sewing associated shaped garment pieces together to form garments. The sewing operations carried at the various sewing stations depend on the type of garment being produced. Figs. 7 to 14 show various types of apparatus used at different sewing stations, some or all of this apparatus being used depending on the type of garment being produced.

Referring to Figs. 7 and 8, there is shown apparatus for applying a seam cover tape 30 to a seam of a garment. The seam cover tape 30 is led from a supply roll (not shown) to a folding device 31. As the tape 30 passes through the folding device 31 it is folded over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape 30, each free side edge 32 of the tape 30 being folded inwardly to a centre of the tape 30 as shown in Fig. 8. The folded tape is then led to a needle assembly 35 of a sewing machine 36.

In this case the needle assembly 35 has a pair of spacedapart needles 37 which are movable vertically upon operation of the sewing machine 36 for stitching. A foot member 38 associated with the needles 37 is mounted on the sewing machine 36 beneath the needles 37 for advancing material to the needles 37 for sewing. Advantageously, according to the invention a tape guide 39 is provided on the foot member 38 adjacent the needles 37 and immediately upstream of the needles 37 for feeding the folded tape 30 in correct alignment to the needles 37 for sewing. The guide 39 has a slot 40 through which the folded tape 30 passes.Thus, the tape 30 is correctly positioned at the needles 37 and is prevented from wandering to either side of the needles 37 and the operator does not need to manipulate the tape 30 but can use both hands to feed the garment seam to the needles 37 in alignment with the tape 30 for sewing the tape 30 to the garment seam. This ensures quick and accurate feeding of the tape 30 to the needles 37 for sewing at the garment seam, thus, advantageously speeding up the sewing operation which is also simplified.

Referring to Figs. 9 and 10 there is shown apparatus for applying an elastic edging tape 45 to a seam of a garment at a sewing station. Elastic edging tape 45 is led from a supply roll (not shown) and passed through a tensioning device 46. The tensioning device 46 has a channel guide 47 through which the elastic edging tape 45 is delivered.

Mounted within the channel guide 47 is a spring plate 48 having a fixed end 49 adjacent an inlet end of the channel guide 47 and a movable free end 50 adjacent an outlet end of the channel guide 47. A spring plate adjustment screw 51 is engageable with a top face of the plate 48 controlling vertical movement of the free end 50 to adjust the tension applied by the plate 48 to the tape 45 as it is drawn from the tensioning device 46. A rotatable cam 52 on the channel guide 47 operated by a control lever 53 is operable to engage an underside of the plate 48 and raise the plate 48 into a disengaged position in which the tape 45 can move freely through the tensioning device 46.

In operation the tape 45 is passed through the tensioning device 46 and through a tape folder 55 in which the tape is folded over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape 45. From an outlet 56 of the folder 55 the folded tape is delivered to a needle 58 of a sewing machine 59. A seam of a garment is inserted between the folded tape sides immediately upstream of the needle 58 and the tape 45 is sewn to the seam by stitching through both sides of the tape and the intermediate garment seam.

By adjusting the screw 51, the tension applied to the tape 45 by the plate 48 can be controlled to stretch the tape 45 which is sewn to the garment in a stretched condition.

After sewing the tape 45 can contract thus providing an elastic edge to the garment. Advantageously, also by operation of the lever 53 the tensioning device 46 can be readily easily switched between an engaged position in which tension is applied to the tape 45 and a disengaged position in which the tape 45 runs freely through the tensioning device. Thus, two separate sewing operations can be carried out at the one sewing station quickly changing from one operation to the other.

Referring to Fig. 11, a sewing apparatus of another sewing station is shown. In this case, the apparatus is used for applying a seam cover tape to a seam. A seam cover tape 62 is delivered from a supply roll (not shown) through a tape guide 63 which feeds the tape 62 to an associated pair of spaced- apart needles 64 of a sewing machine 65.

The needles 64 are located adjacent and immediately downstream of the tape guide 63. A scalloped garment seam divider 67 having a central parting blade 68 is provided.

As a garment seam 69 is fed through the divider 67 the blade 68 parts free outer edges 70 of garment pieces 71 joined by the seam 69 and folds back the free edges 70 against the garment pieces 71. The seam is then delivered to the needles 64, together with the tape 62 passing the seam 69 centrally between the needles and sewing the tape 62 to the free edges 70 and the garment pieces 71 covering the seam 69. It will be appreciated that the seam divider 67 advantageously parts and flattens the seam 69 and the guide 63 presents the tape 62 in correct alignment with the folded back seam to the needles 64 to facilitate accurate and rapid of sewing of the tape 62 over the seam 69. It will be appreciated that the guide 63 and seam divider 67 simplify the sewing operation leaving the operator's hands free for guiding the garment pieces 71 to the needles 64.

Referring to Figs. 12 to 14 there is shown apparatus for another sewing station having a sewing machine 75 with an associated needle 76. In this case the apparatus includes a folder 78 for a seam cover tape 79 led from a supply reel (not shown) to the folder 78. A tape feeder 80 is mounted at an inlet of the folder 78 and comprises a wire bent into a number of loops through which the tape 79 is woven. Within the folder 78, each side of the tape 79 is folded inwardly towards a central longitudinal axis of the tape 79 and then folded inwardly again about the central longitudinal axis of the tape 79 to-form a double-folded tape as shown at 82 (Fig. 13). A garment seam (not shown) is inserted between the folded sides of the tape 79 prior to delivery of the seam and tape to the needles 76 for sewing the tape 79 to the seam.Thus advantageously a reinforced seam can be readily easily and quickly produced at the sewing station. A decorative lace band 85 may also be provided at the seam, the band 85 being delivered through a band feeder 86, having an outlet 87 adjacent an outlet of the folder 78. Thus, as the folded tape 79 is discharged from the folder 78, the lace band 85 is inserted between the sides of the folded tape 78 together with the garment seam, such that the lace band 85 projects outwardly of the tape 79 when attached to the garment seam. Thus, advantageously decorative lace trim can be readily, easily and quickly incorporated in the seam.

When the garments have passed through the various sewing stations required to form the garment, the garments are then inspected and garments of acceptable quality are then packaged.

The invention is not limited to the embodiments hereinbefore described, but may be varied in construction and detail.

Claims (11)

CLAIMS:

1. A garment production process comprising the steps: mounting a cardboard sheet on a plastic anvil plate of a cloth cutting press; leading one or more webs of cloth from a roll or rolls of cloth; forming a number of superimposed cloth layers from the web or webs; locating the superimposed cloth layers on the cardboard sheet; positioning a shaped material cutting die on top of the cloth layers with a cutting blade or blades of the die resting against the material; pressing the die towards the anvil through the layers of cloth to cut out garment pieces of a pre-desired shape; lifting the die away from the cloth and removing the shaped garment pieces from the cardboard sheet; stacking a number of the shaped garment pieces in bundles, each bundle containing a preset number of the shaped garment pieces; releasably binding each bundle of shaped garment pieces;; collecting a pre-desired number of bundles of associated shaped garment pieces required for forming a garment in a container; delivering the container sequentially around a number of sewing stations in turn; carrying out a sewing operation at each sewing station for progressively sewing a number of associated shaped garment pieces together at the sewing stations to form garments; and inspecting and packaging the garments.

2. A process as claimed in Claim 1 wherein the cloth is prepared for cutting by: leading a web of broad cloth from a roll; laying out a preset length of cloth from the web onto a table to form a base layer of cloth; drawing the web from the roll and folding the cloth back and forth over the base layer of cloth a preselected number of times to form the superimposed cloth layers; detaching an uppermostlayer of the folded cloth from the web; and stapling the cloth layers together around a periphery of the cloth layers to securely fix the cloth layers together.

3. A process as claimed in Claim 1 or Claim 2 wherein the cloth is prepared for cutting by leading a number of cloth webs from a plurality of rolls of cloth; overlying the webs to form the superimposed cloth layers; and aligning the webs in the superimposed cloth layers.

4. A process as claimed in any preceding claim including the step of applying an elastic edging tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading an elastic edging tape from a supply roll; passing the tape through a tape tensioning device having means for frictionally engaging the tape for selectively applying a pre desired tension to the tape as it is drawn from the tensioning device; passing the tape through a tape folder, folding the tape over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape; feeding the folded tape to a needle of a sewing machine; inserting a seam of a garment between the folded tape sides immediately upstream of the needle; and sewing the tape to the seam by stitching through both sides of the tape and the intermediate garment seam.

5. A process as claimed in any preceding claim including the step of applying a seam cover tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading the seam cover tape from a supply roll; folding the tape over on itself about a central longitudinal axis of the tape; leading the folded tape to a needle of a sewing machine, passing the folded tape through a tape guide mounted adjacent the needle and immediately upstream of the needle for feeding the folded tape in correct alignment to the needle; feeding a garment seam to the needle in alignment with the tape; and sewing the tape to the garment seam.

6. A process as claimed in Claim 5 wherein the tape is folded by folding each side of the tape inwardly toward a central longitudinal axis of the tape and then folding the tape inwardly again about a central longitudinal axis of the tape prior to delivering the folded tape to the needle of the sewing machine.

7. A process as claimed in Claim 6 including the step of simultaneously delivering a decorative band from a supply roll to the needle, and prior to sewing the tape to the garment seam inserting the band between the folded sides of the tape such that it projects outwardly of the tape when attached to the garment seam.

8. A process as claimed in any preceding claim including the step of applying a seam cover tape to a seam of each garment at a sewing station by the steps of: leading the seam cover tape from a supply roll; passing the tape through a tape guide; feeding the tape from the tape guide to an associated pair of spaced-apart needles of a sewing machine, the needles located adjacent and immediately downstream of the tape sides; = ceding the garment seam through a seam divider having means to part free outer ends of garment pieces joined by the seam and fold back the free edges flat against the garment pieces; delivering the seam to the needles together with the tape, passing the seam between the needles; and sewing the tape to the garment pieces covering the seam.

9. A process substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

10. A garment whenever produced by the process as claimed in any preceding claim.

11. Apparatus for carrying out the process as claimed in any preceding claim substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying drawings.