GB2095300A

GB2095300A - Textile material having a fibrous appearance

Info

Publication number: GB2095300A
Application number: GB8202477A
Authority: GB
Original assignee: TEXTILTECH FORSCH; Forschungsinstitut fuer Textil Technologie
Current assignee: TEXTILTECH FORSCH; Forschungsinstitut fuer Textil Technologie
Priority date: 1981-03-23
Filing date: 1982-01-28
Publication date: 1982-09-29
Also published as: AT373925B; DE3149137C2; GB2095300B; ATA534881A; DE3149137A1; DD158259A1

Abstract

A textile web or sheet, such as a woven or knitted fabric or layered yarn stitch-bonded fabric, which consist completely or partially of artificial silks, is needled to produce a fibre- yarn-lke surface. The web or sheet contains preferably in the transverse direction untwisted artificial silks and/or artificial silks with a low degree of twisting up to 200 twists/m and/or textured artificial silks; at the same time, for example, by open binding and a small number of threads/dm the freedom of movement of the monofilaments is maintained so considerable that during the needling process monofilament loops are pulled out and/or the monofilaments are torn. During the needling process threads and/or groups of threads may be so displaced preferably in the warp that knob, stripe, lozenge or bark patterns are formed, such pattern-like displacements being permanently stabilised by the needling process itself.

Description

SPECIFICATION Textile material having a fibrous appearance This invention relates to a method of producing, by means of needling, a textile web or sheet such as woven and knitted fabric (metallized fabric) and layered yarn stitch-bonded fabric having fibrous appearance. By means of such method textile webs or sheets consisting completely or partially of artificial silks are transformed into webs or sheets having fibre yarn-like surfaces. The method can be used for a large number of different textile materials, for example, for children's clothing, dress and blouse materials, men's outer clothing, lining fabrics, basic fabrics for printing and embroidery, upholstery fabrics, over-curtains, layer supports and industrial textiles.

A very large number of methods are known for altering the surfaces of textile webs or sheets to produce fibrous appearance. The whole development of textured silks as carried out for many years is aimed in this direction. However, the use of textured silks is on the one hand substantially more expensive than that of untwisted artificial silks, and on the other hand it is more difficult to process textured artificial silks than smooth artificial silks.

The use of the majority of textured silks. has not yet resulted in a fibre-yarn-like surface.

Furthermore, it is known to roughen, grind, brush and shear artificial silks in order to alter textile webs or sheets, but these steps have proved successful only in a few cases.

The needling process was actually developed for the production of needled fleeces. Methods are also known in which fabrics of synthetic film flat yarns are fibrillated by means of the needling process (British Patent Specifications 1,558,670; 1,558,669: 1,558,668). However, a fibre-yarnlike nature cannot be achieved in this way.

German Offenlegungsschrift2 213421 discloses a needled felt which contains threads extending in parallel in the transverse direction.

These transverse threads are held together in the longitudinal direction by tricot seams. The transverse threads preferably consist of coarse spun yarn, flyer yarn, carded fibre strands or converter strands. This felt is therefore not a textile sheet which contains completely or partially artificial silks; only the tricot seams may consist of monofilaments or multifilaments.

German Offenlegungsschrift 2 522 871 discloses a method in which a needling process is used to increase the volume of woven upholstery fabrics consisting of fibres. German Offenlegungsschrift 3 019 022 also discloses knitted fabrics produced by any process in which a needling process is used to produce a patterned pile-like surface.

However, due to their stitch structure and the related higher elasticity of the monofilaments, in fabrics knitted by any process there are different conditions than in such textile webs or sheets as woven and knitted and layered yarn stitch-bonded fabrics, in which the transverse threads extend substantially rectilinearly. Moreover, the two lastmentioned methods have the disadvantages that on the one hand the needling process causes a substantial reduction in strength up to destruction, and on the other hand the change of surface is only slight and unstable.

Hitherto no technical teaching has been disclosed for the needling process which would make possible an easy pulling-out of the fibres from the textile web or sheet and stabilisation in that position.

It is an object of the invention to provide textile webs or sheets having fibre appearance for a wide spectrum of use which preferably are made of cheap artificial silks, and can be manufactured in a highly productive manner and reach a high degree of finish, due to a rational needling process. A. method is to be provided with enables webs or sheets consisting mainly of artificial silks to be transformed into webs or sheets with a fibre-yarn-like surface.

The problem which the invention aims at solving is to obviate the previous disadvantages in the transformation of webs or sheets by needling processes, by providing on the one hand webs or sheets which are more especially suited for the demands of the needling process, and on the other hand by improving the needling process for the transformation of webs or sheets. It has been found that to prevent the previous disadvantages the construction of the textile web or sheet must be adapted to the needling process. It was also realised that the freedom of movement of the monofilaments in the yarn and the freedom of movement of the threads in the web or sheet are of decisive importance for changing the character of the web or sheet.If such freedom of movement is inadequate, the monofilaments or threads are completely torn, and only short fibre ends can be seen on the surface, which withdraw, due to the existing tensile stress, by mechanical movement or more particularly by wet processes, so that usually all that is left is an excessive loss of strength.

Accordingly, the present invention consists in a textile web or sheet, such as woven, knitted or layered yarn stitch-bonded fabrics, having a fibreyarn-like surface produced by needling, characterised in that the textile web or sheet has preferably in the transverse direction untwisted artificial silks and/or artificial silks of a low degree of twist of up to 200 twists/m and/or textured artificial silks and also, due to open binding and a small number of threads/dm, has a considerable freedom of movement of the monofilaments, so that the monofilament loops are pulled out and/or torn by means of the needles of a needling machine. The degree of freedom of movement of the monofilaments can therefore be controlled by various influencing factors. Thus an open binding and/or a small number of threads/dm results in the required increase in the freedom of movement.The freedom of movement of the monofilaments is decisive for the alteration of the web or sheet, since on the one hand it influences the size of the monofilament loops and on the other the value of the return forces which in the case of relaxation, more particularly in wet process, reduce the size of the loops.

Advantageously, the textile web or sheet to be needled contains in the transverse direction mainly threads with a considerable freedom of movement of the monofilaments and up to a maximum of 30% of monofilaments with a lower freedom of movement, such as twisted artificial silks over 200 twists/m and/or spun yarns.

The monofilaments with a lower freedom of movement are torn by the needling process and therefore produce a short-fibred surface. As a result, however, the strength is also reduced, so that the proportion of such threads must be limited in accordance with the particular product to be manufactured.

Preferably, a plurality of kinds of threads are arranged which differ by different shrinkage and/or expansion and/or different monofila ment fineness and/or different monofilament crosssection. As a result the surface effect is improved by, for example, the monofilaments with higher shrinkage or expansion absorbing the return forces. In this way the other monofilaments form a denser surface. Threads with different monofilament fineness and/or different monofilament cross-section improve the feel of the needled web or sheet, without having an adverse effect on the gloss.

Preferably as a result of a low thread density, during needling threads or groups of threads, more particularly of the warp, can be displaced, such pattern-like displacements being permanently stabilised by the needling process.

The result is knob, stripe, lozenge, bark patterns and the like.

The manufacture of the textile web or sheet is so carried out that it is needled in the wet condition and/or with textile auxiliaries. This step increases the number and size of the monofilament loops on the surface of the web or sheet and reduces the drop in strength.

Conveniently, the needling process is carried out at elevated temperatures lying in the range from 500C to the setting temperature of the synthetic filaments at most. Under these conditions the needling process produces a permanent deformation of monofilaments and therefore a stable change in the surface of the web or sheet.

According to another optional feature of the invention, during the needling process a plurality of webs or sheets lie one above the other and are needled jointly from one side or two sides and then separated again. This procedure strengthens the effect of the loops on the web or sheet, since when the needle is withdrawn from a second web or sheet, the return movement of the monofilaments of the first web or sheet is reduced. Another advantage of simultaneously needling a plurality of webs or sheets is the considerably increased productivity of the needling process.

To produce the textile webs or sheets of the invention, a needling machine is used in which the distance between the needles is at least 1 5 mm in the transverse direction.

Instead of needling machines, other multineedle machines can also be used, such as warp knitting or stitch-bonding machines, which are equipped with barbed hooks or "crowbar" needles and whose needling system is not disposed at right angles to the longitudinal direction of the textile web or sheet.

Advantageously, the loops of the fibres and/or monofilaments produced by the needling process can be further intensified and stabilised by wet processes with intensive movement, for example, on nozzle type washing machines, reel or jet dyeing installations, and/or by mechanicalthermal finishing processes, for example, roughening, brushing, calendering, setting and steaming. These process steps eliminate the tensile stress produced in the monofilaments during the needling process and therefore produce a stable change in the surface.

Lastly, before and/or after the needling process known finishing processes can be carried out, such as washing, relaxing, printing, dyeing, embossing, setting, shearing, roughening and grinding. If shearing is omitted, the result is a flannel-like surface.

The following examples are to explain the present invention without limiting it.

Example 1 A blouse fabric of the invention is characterised by the following parameters: warp yarn material: PA-S, 10 tex, untwisted, whirled weft yarn material: PA-S, 15 tex, untwisted number of warp threads/dm: 520 number of weft threads/dm: 260 weave: Satin 4 1 The raw fabric is printed and then needled from both sides with one passage each on a needling machine. This is followed by washing in rope form, by a setting process and then a cropping on a right-hand side of the fabric. The fabric has a soft, warm feel which no longer gives evidence of the smooth polyamide silk used.

Example 2 A fabric of the invention for overcurtains is characterised by the following parameters: warp yarn material: PE-S, 1 5 tex (48), 280 twists/m weft yarn material: 8 threads PE-S, 1 5 tex (48), untwisted, glossy 2 threads PE-F-yarn, 50 tex number of warp threads/dm: 390 number of weft threads/dm: 240 weave: Composite binding of twill and linen 3 1 The raw fabric is needled, three webs of fabric lying on one another being fed simultaneously to the needling machine. Immediately after leaving the needling machine the fabrics are would on to three separate fabric rolls. The fabrics are dyed on a jet dyeing installation, set and shorn. A fibreyarn-like structured surface is given to the fabric.

Example 3 A dress fabric of the invention is characterised by the following parameters: warp yarn material: PE-S, 1 5 tex (48), 280 twists/m weft yarn material: PE-S, 11 tex (20), untwisted, glossy number of warp threads/dm: 390 number of weft threads/dm: 260 weave: Satin 1 4 The raw fabric is needled with two passages, dyed on a jet dyeing installation, set and shorn.

Due to the open binding and the small number of threads/dm, the result is a displacement of groups of threads, so that the fabric is given a bark-like - lengthwise patterning. The patterning effect is simultaneously stabilised by the needling process.

The patterning effect is further reinforced by different monofilamentfinenesses with resulting differences in gloss.

Example 4 A fabric of the invention for men's outer clothing is characterised by the following parameters: warp yarn material: 55 PE-F/45 wool, 24 texx2 weft yarn material: PE-S, 1 5 tex (64)+PE-S, 1 5 tex (32), untwisted (double pick) number of warp threads/dm: 210 number of weft threads/dm: 180 weave: Cross twill 1 3 The fabric is needled at 1200 C; in that the loosely wound rolls of fabric are pre-heated in a heating cupboard, or the needling madhine is immediately preceded by a drying machine. The needled fabric is then dyed, set, shorn and steamed. This method gives a fabric corresponding to a soft combed yarn fabric.

Claims

1. A textile web or sheet, such as woven, knitted or layered yarn stitch-bonded fabric, having a fibre-yarn-like surface produced by needling, characterised in that the textile web or sheet has preferably in the transverse direction untwisted artificial silks and/or artificial silks of a low degree of twist of up to 200 twists/m and/or textured artificial silks and also, due to open binding and a small number of threads/dm, has a considerable freedom of movement of the monofilaments, so that the monofilament loops are pulled out and/or torn by means of the needles of a needling maching.

2. A textile web or sheet as claimed in claim 1, wherein the textile web or sheet to be needled contains in the transverse direction mainly threads with a considerable freedom of movement of the monofilaments and up to a maximum of 30% of monofilaments with a lower freedom of movement, such as twisted artificial silks over 200 twists/m and/or spun yarns.

3. A textile web or sheet as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein a plurality of kinds of threads are arranged which differ by different shrinkage and/or expansion and/or different monofilament fineness and/or different monofilament crosssection.

4. A method of producing the textile web or sheet claimed in claim 1, wherein the textile web or sheet is needled in the wet condition and/or with textile auxiliaries.

5. A method as claimed in claim 4, wherein during needling, threads and/or groups of threads, more particularly of the warp, are displaced by low thread densities, so that knob, stripe, lozenge or bark patterns are formed, such displacements being permanently stabilised by the needling itself.

6. A method as claimed in claim 4 or 5, wherein the needling process of the textile web or sheet is carried out at elevated temperatures lying in the range extending from 500C to the setting temperature of the artificial silks at most.

7. A method as claimed in any of claims 4 to 6, wherein during the needling process a plurality of webs or sheets lie one above the other and are needled jointly from one side or two sides and then separated again.

8. A needling machine for the production of a textile web or sheet claimed in claim 1 , wherein the distance between the needles in the machine is at least 1 5 mm in the transverse direction.

9. An apparatus for the production of a textile web or sheet claimed in claim 1, wherein for the needling process, instead of a needling machine, another multi-needle machine, such as a warp knitting or stitch-bonding machine is used, which is equipped with barbed hook or "crowbar" needles and the needle assembly of which is not arranged at right angles to the longitudinal direction of the textile web or sheet.