FR3143340A1 - Anti-aging care kit for keratin materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Anti-aging care kit for keratin materials The present invention relates to a kit, preferably for care of keratin materials, comprising: - a first composition comprising between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition , an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid, - a second composition comprising between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, - a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and - a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives, in which the first composition, the second composition, the third composition and the fourth composition are each placed separately from each other. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of the compositions of the kit according to the invention according to a specific sequence. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Anti-aging care kit for keratin materials

The present invention relates to a kit comprising four care compositions each comprising one or more specific active ingredients in specific proportions.

The present invention also relates to a process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of the compositions of the kit according to the invention according to a specific sequence.

One of the current consumer trends is to want to look young for as long as possible. They therefore seek to fade the signs of skin aging, for example wrinkles and fine lines, thinning of the epidermis and/or the appearance of soft and withered skin, and/or seek to delay the phenomenon of aging of the skin. Numerous products intended to maintain radiant, wrinkle-free skin for as long as possible, the hallmarks of youthful skin, have therefore been developed. These products include one or more biological active ingredients having demonstrated biological effectiveness against skin aging.

However, the performance of these products is difficult to perceive by consumers because their effects are not visible quickly (often after a period of use of more than three months).

There is therefore a need for products providing anti-aging benefit(s) more quickly than current products, in particular providing anti-aging benefit(s) after a duration of use of less than three months.

There is in particular a need for products providing a more uniform complexion, and/or reduced/tightened pores, and/or a relaxing effect, and/or reduced wrinkles and/or reduced fine lines and/or a plumper appearance. skin and/or more supple skin more quickly than current products, in particular after a duration of use of less than three months, preferably less than or equal to 1 month, preferably less than or equal to two weeks, preferably less than or equal to a week.

The inventors have now discovered that a kit comprising the combination of four compositions each comprising one or more specific active ingredients in specific proportions makes it possible to accelerate the appearance of anti-aging benefits, and therefore allows consumers to perceive the benefits more quickly. effects on their skin.

The inventors have also discovered that a process for caring for keratin materials comprising the application of these four compositions in a specific sequence makes it possible to improve and accelerate the appearance of anti-aging benefits, and therefore allows consumers to perceive more quickly the effects on their skin.

Thus, the present invention relates to a kit, preferably for the care of keratin materials, comprising:

- a first composition comprising between 1 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid,

- a second composition comprising between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives,

- a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and

- a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives,

wherein the first composition, the second composition, the third composition and the fourth composition are each placed separately from each other.

The first, second, third and fourth compositions according to the invention are preferably intended for topical application, in particular on keratin materials, in particular the skin. They include in particular a physiologically acceptable environment, that is to say an environment compatible with all keratin materials, in particular the skin.

For the purposes of the present invention, keratin materials mean skin. By “skin” we mean the skin of the face and/or body.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising:

- a first series of steps, including:

- a step a) of applying to said keratin materials a first composition comprising between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta acid hydroxy,

- a step b) of application to said keratin materials of a second composition comprising between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives ,

- a step c) of applying to said keratin materials a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and

- a second series of steps, including:

- a step a’) of application to said keratin materials of the first composition,

- a step b’) of application to said keratin materials of the second composition, and

- a step c') of applying to said keratin materials a fourth composition comprising between 0.05 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives .

The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a kit according to the invention to reduce the appearance and/or attenuate the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

Throughout this description, the contents are expressed as a percentage of active ingredient, unless otherwise specified.

Definitions

The following definitions are valid independently for each of the first, second, third and fourth compositions according to the invention.

Oil

By oil we mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil can be hydrocarbon or silicone.

A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

By “ hydrocarbon oil ” is meant an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or carbon atoms. fluorine. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

Oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, we can in particular cite:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil. almond and in particular sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil , evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, muscat rose, coconut; or even the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

(ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetrical or non-symmetrical dialkyl ethers, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as spokeam, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);

(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate , octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the commercial name “Finsolv TN®” or “Witconol TN®” by the company WITCO or “TEGOSOFT TN®” by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name “X-TEND 226®” by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearyl, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis®” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the Company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(y) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol , 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;

(viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and their mixtures.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8-C16 esters, neopentanoate iso-hexyl, and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007/068371 or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. We can cite the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application W02008/155059 from the Cognis Company.

We can also cite n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SNELL, can also be used.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyls such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.10 ^-6 m²/s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (X):

(X)

where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (X), we can cite: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 ,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (X) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or a ethyl group.

Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS.

Other fatty substances

Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) can be chosen from:

- fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

- pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of vegetable origin;

- fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;

- and their mixtures.

Surfactants

The surfactants can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, preferably from non-ionic or anionic surfactants.

Among the non-ionic surfactants, we can cite in particular:

- C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,

- ose esters and ethers such as the mixture of cetyl stearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68® from Seppic;

- ethoxylated methyl glucose esters, for example PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18) such as oxyethylenated ether cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Stéareth-20”), the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”), notably marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

- esters of fatty acids (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan Trèsstearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;

- esters, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters, preferably monoesters, of fatty acid (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C10-C20) and polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units , preferably from 2 to 10 units of glycerol, for example polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;

- alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably those whose number of ethylene oxide (EO) units varies from 2 to 200. As an example, we can cite cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100;

- polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) polyoxypropylenated (C16-C24) C16-C24 alkyl ethers, for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,

- polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated), for example PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl mixture Stearate marketed for example by the company Croda under the name Arlacel 165®;

- esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose Trèsstearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by the Croda company under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160®;

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, notably sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate in particular, marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT O® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the SHEREX company, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT,

- fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 in particular sold under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 in particular sold under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA,

- dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company DOW CORNING,

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from the company FINTEX),

- copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also called EO/OP polycondensates,

and their mixtures.

Among the anionic surfactants, we can cite:

- salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, particularly those deriving from amines or alkaline salts, and their mixtures;

- phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N 10N® from the company CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate or cetyl potassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

- sulfosuccinates such as “Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate” and “Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate”;

- alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

- isethionates;

- acylglutamates such as “Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS-21 R® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF® marketed by the company AJINOMOTO) and their mixtures;

- the condensed of at least one derivative of glutamic acid and of an amino acid, such as a condensed of N-acylated glutamic acid and of an amino acid such as lysine, or a salt thereof. The acyl group attached to the nitrogen atom of glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, as mentioned above, such as lauric acid. As salt, mention may be made of metal salts, ammonium salts and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine as mentioned above. Sodium salt is preferable. Such a surfactant is for example sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine;

- soy derivatives such as potassium soyate;

- citrates, such as Glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C 62 Pellets® from Degussa);

- proline derivatives, such as Sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the Mixture of Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, Magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and Palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One® from Seppic);

- lactylates, such as Sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL® from Karlshamns AB);

- sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of Stearoyl sarcosine and Myristoyl sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM® from Croda);

- sulfonates, such as Sodium C14-17 dry alkyl sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60® from Clariant);

- glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12® from Ajinomoto).

Aqueous phase

An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/ or natural thermal or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint Gervais-les-Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevar-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades and water from Tercis -les-bains, Avène water.

An aqueous phase can also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C ₁ -C ₁₀ alcohols, more preferably C ₁ -C ₅ alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene. glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

Hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts

Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10 MDa, and more particularly ranging from 2 KDa to 2 MDa.

As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acids of animal origin, of origin or crosslinked, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or even hyaluronic acids of genetic origin. including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by the Q-Med Laboratory, or intended for deep wrinkles, labio-mental and oval depressions of the face, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by the Q-Med Laboratory. Preferably, as hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of those sold under the name Restylane® by Laboratoire Q-Med and under the name Surgiderm® by Laboratoire Cornéal.

We can also cite low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.

Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate. May also be considered in the context of the invention, sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1,100,000 Daltons marketed by the company Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®

Preferably, hyaluronic acid is present in a salified form, preferably in the form of sodium hyaluronate.

Vitamins

Each composition may comprise one or more vitamins and/or one of their derivatives, for example niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, panthenol and/or one of its derivatives. or one of its derivatives, tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives.

Niacinamide has the following structure:

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and has the CAS number 98-92-0. This material is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

By “niacinamide derivative” is preferably meant a compound in which the amide group of the niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups.

We can cite, for example, the nicotinic acid product marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products.

Ascorbic acid preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. Its structure is the following formula (II):

By “ascorbic acid derivative” is preferably meant a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (in particular sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA®), the potassium salt of DL- alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by the company SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in form D, that is to say in the form of glucopyrannose α or β or furannose α or β, or in form L, with the ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-α-D-glucopyranoside, in particular available from the company HAYASHIBARA.

We can cite, for example, the Ascorbic acid L® product from RECKON ORGANICS (pure synthetic ascorbic acid) or the Ascorbic acid Ultrafine powder® from DSM nutritional product (natural extract).

Panthenol (or vitamin B5) has the following formula (III)

.

By “panthenol derivative” is preferably meant C1-C8 panthenol esters and ethers.

We can cite, for example, the product D-panthenol 75W® marketed by the company BASF.

Tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. Its structure is the following formula (IV).

By “tocopherol derivative” is preferably meant tocopherol esters and ethers, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-C18, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate.

We can cite, for example, the product DL Alpha Tocophéryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI.

Other ingredients

Each composition may contain one or more of the usual active ingredients or excipients in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; actives ; antioxidants; perfumes ; film-forming agents; dyes; sequestrants; electrolytes; pH adjusters; charges ; conservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and their mixtures. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields considered. In particular, these quantities vary depending on the desired aim and can for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the planned addition.

As thickeners, we can cite carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides such as for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80) by Seppic company; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS®” ( CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by the company SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones and their mixtures.

The thickeners are preferably present in an amount of between 0.05% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Each composition may also comprise at least one polymer, in particular hydrophilic. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole, and even more more preferred from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800® ( CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, the following may be cited for example:

- sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate crosslinked copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE/C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN/LAURETH-7) or that used in the product commercial sold under the name SIMULGEL 600® (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/ ISOHEXADECANE/ POLYSORBATE-80) by the company SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized by soda or potash ;

- copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM ® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or as the product marketed under the name COPOLYMER ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE DE SODIUM/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10® (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM DIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, optionally crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, which bears the name AMPS/ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate copolymer (25 EO) 80/20, crosslinked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA ) or even Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer in INCI name.

As a sequestering agent, mention may be made of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) or its salts. Ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI):

(VI).

Preferably, the salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate. Such a compound is for example that sold under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active material in water), or even that sold under the name Octaquest E30 ^® by the company Innospec Active Chemicals. Octel Performance Chemicals company.

The electrolyte can for example be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate.

Among the pH adjusters, we can cite mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalizing agents we can cite, by way of example, ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.

Preferably, among the active ingredients that can be used, betaine, disodium EDTA, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, adenosine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, magnesium gluconate, phytic acid, or even the perfumes.

Preferred preservatives include hydroxyacetophenone, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

As a preferred plant extract, we can cite papaya extract (INCI: CARICA PAPAYA (PAPAYA) FRUIT EXTRACT).

The filler can be mineral or organic, preferably mineral.

Mineral fillers can be chosen from synthetic or natural mica; silica powder; talc; kaolin; boron nitride and mixtures thereof, advantageously silica powder.

First composition

The first composition comprises between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid.

Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid of the first composition is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid. Advantageously, the alpha-hydroxy acid is lactic acid.

Preferably, the alpha-hydroxy acid content in the first composition ranges from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.7% to 3.8% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the first composition.

Optionally, the first composition may also comprise a beta-hydroxy acid (also called beta-hydroxy acids, or BHA). Preferably, the beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

Preferably, the content of beta-hydroxy acid in the first composition ranges from 0.05% to 1% by weight (of active material), preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight (of active material). , preferably from 0.15% to 0.3% by weight (of active material), relative to the total weight of the first composition

Preferably, the first composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. By “oil-in-water emulsion” (or O/W emulsion), we mean a composition comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the first composition is an exfoliating composition (also called exfoliating composition). Such a composition makes it possible to break the bonds between the epidermal cells (keratinocytes), promoting desquamation (or exfoliation), by voluntarily eroding the dead surface layers (scales) of the cells of the epidermis.

Oily phase

The first composition preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.

The oily phase may also include other fatty substances as defined above.

Preferably, the oily phase of the first composition comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin; linear or branched dialkyl ethers, symmetrical or non-symmetrical, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin; and synthetic esters as defined above. Advantageously, the first composition comprises an oil or a mixture of oil chosen from macadamia oil, dicaprylyl ether, squalane, isopropyl myristate, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the first composition comprises from 0.005% to 20% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

Surfactants

The first composition may also comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.

The surfactant of the first composition is preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) polyoxypropylenated (C16-C24) C16-C24 alkyl ethers; and fatty acid monoesters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C10-C20 acid) and polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units. Advantageously, the surfactant of the first composition is among PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the first composition comprises from 0.05% to 2% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3%. at 0.5% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The first composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, preferably continuous, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.

The first composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.

The first composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 60% to 89% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, at least one C1-C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. According to another embodiment, the aqueous phase of the first composition comprises water, ethanol, glycerol and 1,2-octanediol.

Preferably, the first composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight of organic solvent miscible in water, relative to the total weight of the first composition, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

Vitamins

According to one embodiment, the first composition may also comprise niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives. These compounds are as defined above.

Preferably, the first composition comprises from 2 to 10%, preferably from 3 to 8%, preferably from 4.5 to 5.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of niacinamide and/or a of its derivatives.

Other ingredients

The first composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above.

Second composition

The second composition comprises between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives. Ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives is as defined above.

Preferably, the content of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives in the second composition ranges from 4% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 9% by weight, preferably from 6.5% to 7% by weight. .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

Preferably, the second composition further comprises between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, preferably 0.3% and 0.7% by weight. Hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts is as defined above.

Preferably, the second composition further comprises between 0.05% and 14% by weight, preferably between 1% and 12% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. , of a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V)

in which

R represents an alkyl radical, saturated in C1 to C10, in particular in C1 to C4, and which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR" ₂ , with R" ₂ being an alkyl radical, in C1 -C4 saturated,

S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of series L and/or D, said mono- or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and

_{* ​ ​ ​} CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

The C-glycosides of formula (V) useful for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical in C1 to C6, in particular in C1 to C4, preferably in C1 to C2 and more preferably a methyl radical.

Among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, mention may in particular be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl groups. , cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (V) can be used for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form. and of series L and/or D, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one obligatorily free hydroxyl function and/or possibly one or more obligatorily protected amine functions, X and R also retaining all of the definitions previously given. Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L- rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D -xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose. More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention containing up to 6 sugar units can be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-Dglucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which can be advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl-6-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and in particular D-xylose. Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V) is used for which: R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4 alkyl radical, in particular C1-C2, in particular methyl; S represents a monosaccharide as described above and in particular chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a group -CH(OH)-.

Acceptable salts of the compounds described herein include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or even aromatic acids. These acids may also contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. When the compound of formula (V) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH) ₂ , NH ₄ OH, Mg(OH) ₂ or Zn(OH) ₂ ; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may contain one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may therefore include, for example, one or more alcohol functions; we can in particular cite amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. We can also cite lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last step of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. As an example, we can cite solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

By way of illustration and not limitation of the C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suitable for the invention, the following derivatives may in particular be cited:

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

- 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

- 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

- 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

- 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

their isomers and mixtures.

According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy -propane, can be advantageously used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention can advantageously be C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, whose INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL, presented under form of a solution at 30% or 70% by weight of active ingredient in a water/propylene glycol mixture (30/70% or 70/30% by weight), in particular marketed under the name MEXORYL SBB® or MEXORYL SCN® by Novéal (Chimex). In a particular embodiment, such a C-glycoside is present in concentrated form with 70% active ingredient; such a C-glycoside is marketed under the name MEXORYL SCS by NOVEAL. Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (V) can be used alone or in mixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.

A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02/051828.

Preferably, the second composition is an aqueous solution emulsified with an oily phase, with a gelled appearance. This composition can be called “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, slightly gelled appearance, flowable, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. preferably at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid).

Oily phase

The second composition preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.

The oily phase may also include other fatty substances as defined above.

Preferably, the oily phase of the second composition comprises at least one oil chosen from the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10; fatty amides; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms; C8-C16 branched alkanes; and linear or branched, symmetrical or non-symmetrical dialkyl ethers, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, as defined above. Preferably, the oily phase of the second composition comprises at least one other fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols which are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the second composition comprises an oil or a mixture of oil chosen from isododecane, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, and optionally cetyl alcohol, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the second composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight. .

Surfactants

When the second composition comprises at least one surfactant, it is as defined above.

The surfactant(s) of the second composition are preferably chosen from C8-C20 fatty acids, fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and glycerol ethers. oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups), esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, esters of fatty acids (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and polyol, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated), ethoxylated methyl glucose esters and condensates of at least one glutamic acid derivative and one amino acid. Advantageously, the surfactant(s) of the second composition are chosen from stearic acid, PEG-40 monostearate, sucrose tristearate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-methyl glucose sesquistearate 20, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, and any mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the second composition is substantially free of surfactants. By “substantially free of surfactants”, it is meant that the second composition has a surfactant content less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, of preferably between 0.05% and 1% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The second composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.

The second composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably at least 50% by weight. The second composition preferably comprises from 30% to 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, at least one C1-C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol and pentylene glycol. According to another embodiment, the aqueous phase of the second composition comprises water, ethanol, glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the second composition comprises from 5% to 30% by weight of organic solvent miscible in water, relative to the total weight of the second composition, more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight.

Other ingredients

The second composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above.

Third composition

The third composition comprises at least one UV filter.

UV filters

The UV filter can be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filters and/or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the UV filter is at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV filter.

By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in the form micellar) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid fatty phase.

By “insoluble UV filter” is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates and fatty acid triglycerides, for example Miglyol 812® marketed by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, achieved at 70°C, is defined as the quantity of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of solid in suspension after return to ambient temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

By “organic UVA filter” we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “organic UVB filter”, we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

Organic UV filters are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669,323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and their mixtures.

As examples of organic photoprotective agents, we can cite those designated below by their INCI name and/or their chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products,

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products,

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN ® OS” by Symrise,

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® N 539 T” by BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL ® M 40” by BASF,

2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-n-hexyl benzoate, INCI name Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus”. UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 /071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form aqueous dispersion,

Benzylidene camphor compounds:

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX ® 6300” by MERCK,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name “MEXORYL ® SX” by NOVEAL,

Phenyl benzimidazole compounds:

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX ® 232” by MERCK.

Bis-benzoazolyl compounds:

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN ® AP” by Symrise,

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name “MEXORYL ® XL” by NOVEAL,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549 in particular sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® M” by BASF or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1 .5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) polyglycerol alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such that the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009/063392, in particular the product marketed under the name “TINOSORB ® WPGL” by the company BASF,

Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB ® S” by the company BASF, and in its water-dispersible form under the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL ® T 150” by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB ® HEB” by 3V SIGMA,

- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US 6,225,467, application WO 2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982, WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992, WO 2006/034985, these compounds being used advantageously in the form micronized (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

Anthranilic compounds:

Menthyl anthranilate sold under the commercial trade name “NEO HELIOPAN ® MA” by Symrise.

Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL ® SLX” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Benzoxazole compounds:

2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name “Uvasorb ® K2A” by 3V Sigma,

2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

Preferential organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,

Benzophenone-3,

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,

2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,

and their mixtures.

Particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from:

Ethylhexyl Salicylate,

Homosalate,

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,

Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,

Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine,

and their mixtures.

The inorganic UV filters used in accordance with the present invention may be metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm. between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09/22/2021 of the European cosmetic products regulation number 1223/2009, but are not limited to this list.

They may in particular be chosen from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin ), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:

- hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP®” from the company TAYCA,

- silica and iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company IKEDA,

- silica and alumina such as the products “MT-500SA®” and “MT-100SA®” from the company TAYCA, “TIOVEIL™ AQ-N” from the company CRODA,

- alumina such as the “TTO-55 (A)®” products from the company ISHIHARA,

- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products “MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®” from the company TAYCA, the product “Solaveil™ CT100” from the company CRODA and the product “ Eusolex T-AVO®" from the MERCK company,

- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100AQ®” from the company TAYCA,

- alumina and aluminum laurate,

- iron oxide and iron stearate,

- zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “MTY-500SAS®” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®” from the company TAYCA,

- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,

- silica and treated with a silicone,

- alumina and treated with a silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the company ISHIHARA,

- triethanolamine,

- stearic acid such as the product “TTO-55 (C)®” from the company ISHIHARA,

- sodium hexametaphosphate,

- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,

- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,

- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,

- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,

- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,

- TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

We can also cite TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as for example a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, an ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names “MT-500B” or “MT-600B®”, by the company Evonik under the name “DEGUSSA P 25”.

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;

- those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:

- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;

- CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

- those marketed under the name and “DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®” by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);

- those marketed under the name “SPD-Z5®” by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can for example be those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide. zinc coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin. According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the third composition comprises a mixture of organic UV filters. Preferably, the third composition comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters chosen from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine.

Preferably, the total content of UV filter(s) in the third composition ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition.

Preferably, the third composition is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

Preferably, the third composition is a day cream.

Oily phase

The third composition preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil and a silicone oil, as defined above.

Preferably, the oily phase of the third composition comprises at least one oil chosen from carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, and an oil chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, such as dimethicone.

Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 5% by weight.

Surfactants

The third composition may also comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.

The surfactant of the third composition is preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters in association with a fatty acid ester and glycerol, alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) whose number of units ethylene oxide (EO) ranges from 2 to 200, and C8-C20 fatty acids. Advantageously, the surfactant of the third composition is chosen from the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture, steareth 100, stearic acid and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 7% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The third composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.

The third composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the third composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.

The third composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 60% to 85% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the third composition comprises water, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol and any one of their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the third composition comprises water, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the third composition comprises from 1% to 10% by weight of organic solvent miscible in water, relative to the total weight of the third composition, more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight.

Other ingredients

The third composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above.

Silicones

The third composition may also comprise a silicone elastomer, preferably between 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the third composition, preferably between 2 and 5% by weight.

As a silicone elastomer, mention may be made more particularly of crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer- 3 (INCI name). According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel is used dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list including cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyltrimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 cst at 25°C, in particular the following references: DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSS POLYMER ( and) DIMETHICONE, such as “KSG-6®” and “KSG-16®” from Shin Etsu; DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as “DC9041®” from Dow Corning.

Fourth composition

The fourth composition comprises between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives.

Retinol (vitamin A) has the following structure (VII):

.

By “retinol derivatives” is preferably meant C1-C24 retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.

Preferably, the content of retinol and/or one of its derivatives in the fourth composition ranges from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the fourth composition

Preferably, the fourth composition further comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of at least one additional vitamin or an additional vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives, and/or any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the total quantity of additional vitamin ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 3 % in weight.

According to one embodiment, the fourth composition comprises panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives.

According to another embodiment, the fourth composition comprises tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives and ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives.

Preferably, the fourth composition is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

Preferably, the fourth composition is a night cream.

Oily phase

The fourth composition preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably a hydrocarbon oil, as defined above.

Preferably, the oily phase of the fourth composition comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; and oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' or > 10, and any of their mixtures. Advantageously, the oily phase of the fourth composition comprises at least one oil chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the oily phase of the fourth composition further comprises another fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols that are solid at room temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol.

Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.

Surfactants

The fourth composition may also comprise at least one surfactant, as defined above.

The surfactant of the fourth composition is preferably chosen from fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and polyol; fatty acid esters (in particular of C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated groups) and any of their mixtures. Advantageously, the surfactant of the fourth composition is chosen from sorbitan Trèstearete, PEG-40 monostearate, and any of their mixtures.

Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 0.5% to 8% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 4% by weight. weight.

Aqueous phase

The fourth composition comprises at least one aqueous phase, the aqueous phase and its ingredients being as defined above.

The fourth composition preferably comprises at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, preferably at least 50% by weight.

The fourth composition preferably comprises from 40% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the fourth composition comprises water, a C ₁ -C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,3-propanediol and any mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fourth composition comprises from 5% to 20% by weight of organic solvent miscible in water, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, more preferably from 10% to 17% by weight.

Other ingredients

The fourth composition may contain one or more other ingredients as defined above.

Process cosmetic

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials using the kit according to the invention.

Preferably, the first composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and/or the second composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and/or the third composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment or variant, and/or the fourth composition is as defined in the present application, according to any embodiment realization or variation.

Preferably, the first series of steps and the second series of steps are spaced by a duration of at least 8 hours, preferably ranging from 8 to 20 hours, preferably ranging from 12 to 18 hours.

Preferably, the first series of steps is carried out after a prolonged phase of sleep (sleep phase of at least 5 hours, preferably between 5 hours and 12 hours), for example in the morning, and the second series of step is carried out before a prolonged phase of sleep, for example in the evening.

Preferably, in the first series of steps, step a) is carried out before step b) and step b) is carried out before step c). Preferably, step a) is spaced from step b) by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes, and step b) is spaced from step c) by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes.

Preferably, in the second series of steps, step a’) is carried out before step b’) and step b’) is carried out before step c’). Preferably, step a') is spaced from step b') by a duration of between 15 seconds and 5 minutes, and step b') is spaced from step c') by a duration between 15 seconds and 5 minutes.

Use

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a kit according to the invention to reduce the appearance and/or attenuate the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.

By reducing “signs of aging”, we preferably mean the visibility of pores, an uneven skin tone, a tired appearance, a dull complexion, loss of firmness of the skin, loss of suppleness of the skin, dehydrated skin, the presence of wrinkles, the presence of fine lines and/or the presence of crow's feet.

The present invention also relates to a method for reducing the appearance and/or attenuating the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, comprising the application of the compositions of the kit according to the invention to said keratin materials, preferably according to the steps of the cosmetic process according to the invention.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients are given in weight% relative to the total weight of each composition.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of a kit according to the invention

A kit according to the invention is obtained by preparing the four compositions comprising the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, according to the following protocol:

First composition:

Heat phase A + A2 + A3 to 60°C with stirring at 1000 rpm.

When the phase is homogeneous, lower the temperature and add A4, sodium hydroxide, leave stirring for 5 min.

Around 30°C, add B+C and leave stirring for 5 minutes.

Then add phase D with stirring at 1800 rpm

Then add E around 25°C, still stirring, and leave for 5 minutes, at 1500 rpm.

Second composition:

Heat phase A to 65°C for 10 min, with stirring at 1500 rpm.

Then add the dilution water B and leave to stir so as to reduce the temperature to 45°C.

Add phase D with stirring at 3000 rpm. Leave for 10min.

Add phase C with stirring at 3000 rpm. Leave to stir for 15 minutes. The temperature decreases around 30°C.

Then add phase E with ascorbic acid, leave for 10 minutes with stirring.

Then add phase F and leave for 10 minutes with stirring.

Then add phase G and leave for 10 minutes with stirring.

Then once returned to 25°C add phase H and leave for 5 min with stirring.

Third composition:

Heat phase A1 to 75°C with stirring at 1500 rpm. When the phase is homogeneous, add A2 with stirring at 2000 rpm and leave for 5 min.

Then add phase B at 75°C with stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 10 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add the dilution phase C around 50°C and leave for 15 minutes with stirring.

Around 30°C add gelation phase D and leave for 10 minutes with stirring.

Then add phase E at 3000 rpm and leave for 15 min with stirring.

Fourth composition:

Heat phase B to 80°C for 30 min with stirring at 500 rpm; Once the phase is homogeneous, add phase A at RT and leave stirring for 10 min at 3000 rpm.

Add phase C and leave stirring for 10 min.

Around 40°C add phase D, leave for 10 min with stirring at 3000 rpm.

Then add phase E and leave for 10 min with stirring.

Around 30°c add phase F under inerting and leave for 10 min.

And finally add phase G and leave for 5 min with stirring at 3000 rpm.

Ingredient Phase First composition
(% w/w) Water HAS Qsp 100 Glycerin HAS 3.0 Conservative HAS 0.3 Magnesium gluconate HAS 0.5 Salicylic acid HAS 0.20 Lactic acid (90 % in active ingredient) A2 3.0 Phytic acid A3 0.30 Base A4 0.59 Niacinamide B 5.0 Fruit extract (CARICA PAPAYA) VS 1.0 PPG-6-DECYLTETRADECETH-30 D 0.20 POLYGLYCERYL-4 CAPRATE D 0.18 POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEATE D 0.02 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE D 0.01 Scent D 0.02 Denatured alcohol E 4.5

Ingredient (INCI) Phase Second composition
(% w/w) Water HAS 20 Glycerin HAS 10.0 Adenosine HAS 0.1 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL ( 70% in active ingredient) HAS 4.28 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE HAS 0.2 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE HAS 0.1 SODIUM DILAURAMIDOGLUTAMIDE LYSINE HAS 0.35 Conservative HAS 0.30 Conservative HAS 0.5 Water B Qsp 100 Xanthan gum VS 0.1 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE VS 0.50 Sodium hyaluronate VS 0.5 OCTYLDODECANOL D 0.50 Dicaprylic ether D 1.0 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE D 1.0 Ascorbic acid E 7.0 Water E 10 Base E 1.58 PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL F 0.0165 Scent F 0.2 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID G 0.9 Base G pH Water G 7 Denatured alcohol H 5.0

Ingredient Phase Third composition
(% w/w) BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE A1 3.0 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE A1 5.0 Octocrylene A1 7.0 Homosalate A1 5.0 Stearic acid A1 1.5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate A1 3.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate A1 0.50 Steareth-100 A1 0.4 Base A1 0.009 Conservative 1 A1 0.3 Scent A1 0.25 Charge A2 3.0 Water B 23.7 Glycerin B 3.0 Conservative 2 B 0.70 Hydroxyacetophenone B 0.5 Disodium EDTA B 0.2 Water VS Qsp 100 Dimethicone D 2.0 Xanthan gum D 0.25 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE D 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER E 1.0

Ingredient Phase Fourth composition
(% w/w) Water HAS 25 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE HAS 0.5 Dyes HAS 0.0005 Glycerin HAS 8.0 Propanediol HAS 3.0 Adenosine HAS 0.1 Niacinamide HAS 2.0 PEG-40 stearate B 2.0 Sorbitan Tristearate B 0.9 Diisopropyl sebacate B 2.7 Conservative 1 B 0.7 Conservative 2 B 0.5 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE B 0.3 Isononyl isononanoate B 5.5 Cetyl alcohol B 2.5 Scent B 0.2 Water VS Qsp 100 Panthenol VS 0.50 Isohexadecane D 3.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose D 0.10 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE D 1.2 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE STARCH D 0.1 Charge E 2.0 SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 E 2.0 Retinol (10 % in active ingredient) F 3.0 Denatured alcohol G 3.0

Example 2: Preparation of a comparative reference kit

A comparative kit is obtained by preparing a first composition comprising the ingredients mentioned in the table below, and a second and third compositions corresponding to the third and fourth compositions of the kit of Example 1, respectively. The protocol for preparing the first composition CC1 is as follows:

First composition CC1:

Manufactured in Atex tank and under inerting

Add the ingredients of A1 to the hot water and heat to 60°C.

Add B and disperse under turbine

Then add A2 and mix until completely solubilized and cool.

Add C under inerting.

Then add phases D and E.

And finally add phase F and mix until total solubilization

Ingredient First composition CC1
(% w/w) Water A1 Qsp 100 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL A1 10.0 NEOHESPERIDINE DIHYDROCHALCONE A1 0.20 Tocopherol A2 0.5 LAURETH-23 A2 1.5 Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid B 0.10 Ascorbic acid VS 15.0 Base D 0.03 Water E 1 Denatured alcohol F 11.0 Glycerin F 4.20 PINUS PINASTER BARK/BUD EXTRACT F 0.25

Example 3: Comparison of the kit according to the invention of example 1 with the comparative kit of example 2

The performances of the kit according to the invention of Example 1 and of the comparative kit of Example 2 were evaluated by a panel of more than 110 consumers.

The panel of consumers used the kit according to the invention on their face for a month, according to the method of the invention, and compared it with the comparative kit. The comparative kit was applied using a similar process (the first and second compositions being replaced by the first composition CC1).

After 3 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention felt 12 benefits on their skin, instead of only 9 benefits with the comparative kit. The three additional benefits are uniformity of complexion, reduction of pores and a anti-fatigue effect. They also noted that the plump appearance, suppleness and younger appearance of the skin were improved with the kit according to the invention compared to the comparative kit after 3 days.

After 7 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention felt 14 benefits on their skin, instead of only 10 benefits with the comparative kit. The four additional benefits are even skin tone, reduced pores, reduced wrinkles and reduced fine lines. They also noted that the plump appearance and suppleness of the skin were improved with the kit according to the invention compared to the comparative kit after 7 days.

After 14 days, consumers using the kit according to the invention felt 14 benefits on their skin, instead of only 12 benefits with the comparative kit. The two additional benefits are the reduction of wrinkles and the reduction of fine lines. They also noted that the blurring of pores and the anti-fatigue effect were improved with the kit according to the invention compared to the comparative kit after 14 days.

After one month, the panel noticed an acceleration in the kinetics of several anti-aging benefits (evenness of complexion, plump appearance, suppleness of the skin, anti-fatigue effect, younger appearance, fading of fine lines and wrinkles, fading pores, reduction of crow's feet, appearance of healthy skin) compared to the comparison kit.

Example 4: Preparation of another kit according to the invention

Another kit according to the invention is obtained by preparing the four compositions comprising the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, according to the following protocol:

First composition :

Mix phase A1 and heat to 60°C

Add A2 until complete solubilization

Cool to 30°C and add phase C and mix

Add E and B to adjust the pH to around 4.3

Add phase D and mix well

Prepare phase F separately.

Mix 93% of preparation A1+A2+B+C+D+E with 7% of phase F

Second composition:

Heat the fatty phase A to 60°C.

Heat the aqueous phase B1 to 60°C and homogenize with stirring for 5 minutes

Incorporate phase B2 with stirring (800 then up to 1400 rpm) to homogenize for 10-15 min.

After obtaining a homogeneous gel: addition of phase B3 in phase B.

Create the emulsion with stirring by incorporating A into B (2500-3000 rpm) for 10 min.

Start cooling with an ice bath.

Add phase C and D at a T°< to 40°C and homogenize for 10-15min.

At the same time, prepare the vitamin C + soda solution adjusted to pH 6

Slowly incorporate the vit C solution into the formula, homogenize for 5 minutes.

Third composition :

Heat phase A1 to 75°C with stirring at 1500 rpm. When the phase is homogeneous, add A2 with stirring at 2000 rpm and leave for 5 min.

Then add phase B at 75°C with stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 10 min. When the phase is homogeneous, add the dilution phase C around 50°C and leave for 15 minutes with stirring.

Around 30°C add gelation phase D and leave for 10 minutes with stirring.

Then add phase E with stirring at 3000 rpm and leave for 15 min.

Fourth composition:

Heat phase B1+B2 at 80°C for 30 min with stirring at 500 rpm.

Once the phase is homogeneous, add the hot phase A1 and leave stirring for 10 min at 3000 rpm.

Add dilution phase C to cool and leave stirring for 10 min

Around 40°C add phase D, leave for 10 min with stirring at 3000 rpm.

Then add phase E and leave for 10 min with stirring.

Then add phase F with stirring.

Around 30°c add phase H under inerting and leave for 10 min.

Add phase I and leave for 5 min with stirring at 3000 rpm.

Add phase G at 25°C

Ingredient First composition
(% w/w) Water A1 Qsp 100 Carrageenan A1 0.093 Pentylene glycol A1 3.72 Glycerin A1 4.65 Salicylic acid A2 0.19902 Base B 1.325064 Sodium hyaluronate VS 0.0093 Propanediol VS 2.79 Betaine D 0.93 Sodium chloride D 0.93 Lactic acid (90 % in active ingredient) E 4.2036 Dicaprylyl ether F 1.8655 Macadamia ternifolia seed oil F 0.4669 Squalane F 4.61755 Scent F 0.05005

Ingredient Second composition
(% w/w) Sucrose Tristearate HAS 1.08 PEG-40 stearate HAS 2.4 Cetyl alcohol HAS 4.0 Glyceryl stearate HAS 3.0 Stearic acid HAS 1.2 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE HAS 5.0 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate HAS 5.0 Water B1 Qsp 100 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE B1 0.25 Glycerin B1 12.0 Propanediol B1 2.25 Conservative B1 0.50 Pentylene glycol B1 3.0 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL
( 3 0 % active ingredient) B1 9.0 Sodium hyluronate B2 0.50 Sodium polyacrylate B2 0.50 Dilauramidoglutamide sodium lysine B3 0.35 Isododecane VS 3.5 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE VS 1.50 Scent D 0.12 Water E 10 Base E 1,621 Ascorbic acid E 7.0

Ingredient Third composition
(% w/w) BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE A1 3.0 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE A1 5.0 Octocrylene A1 7.0 Homosalate A1 5.0 Stearic acid A1 1.5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate A1 3.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate A1 0.50 Steareth-100 A1 0.4 Base A1 0.009 Conservative 1 A1 0.3 Scent A1 0.25 Silica A2 3.0 Water B 23.7 Glycerin B 3.0 Conservative 2 B 0.70 Conservative 3 B 0.5 Disodium EDTA B 0.2 Water VS Qsp 100 Dimethicone D 2.0 Xanthan gum D 0.25 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE D 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER E 1

Ingredient Fourth composition
(% w/w) Water A1 25 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE A1 0.2 Dyes A1 0.00128 Glycerin A1 8.00 Propanediol A1 3.0 Adenosine A1 0.1 Sorbitan Tristearate B1 0.90 PEG-40 stearate B1 2.0 Diisopropyl sebacate B1 2.7 Conservative 1 B1 0.50 Conservative 2 B1 0.35 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE B1 0.1 Isononyl isononanoate B1 5.5 Cetyl alcohol B1 2.50 Scent B1 Tocopherol B2 1.00 Water VS Qsp Isohexadecane D 3.0 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE D 1.20 Hydroxyethylcellulose D 0.1 Charge E 2.0 SODIUM ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 F 2.0 Denatured alcohol G 3.0 Ascorbic acid H 0.50 Base H 0.1134 WATER H 5 Retinol ( 10 % in active ingredient) I 3.0

Example 5 : Evaluation of the kit according to the invention from example 4

A consumer test was carried out by a panel of 50 consumers. This new panel used the kit according to the invention of Example 4 following the process according to the invention for 12 weeks.

The results perceived by consumers are summarized in the following table:

Week 1 Week 4 Week 8 Week 12 Global appreciation 56% 66% 68% 60% Satisfaction 84% 86% 86% 82% Likelihood to recommend 88% 94% 92% 86% Leaves skin soft to the touch 80% 88% 90% 90% Gives skin a healthier appearance 86% 88% 94% 90% Skin appears smoother/refined 80% 90% 90% 86% Gives skin a healthy, radiant glow 72% 80% 88% 86% Leaves skin plumper 78% 78% 84% 82% Fine lines appear minimized/reduced 70% 82% 78% 80% Wrinkles appear minimized/reduced 70% 82% 76% 80% Crow's feet appear minimized/reduced 68% 86% 76% 78% Evens out skin tone 62% 70% 74% 74%

In addition to consumer perception, the effectiveness of the kit according to the invention was evaluated by a clinical study. Different effects on the skin were quantified after 12 weeks (W12) compared to a baseline (Ref). The results obtained are reported in the table below.

Average (%) p-value Fine lines -23.7% <.001 Volume -16.6% <.001 Tactile softness -11.8% <.001 Glow -10.7% <.001 Forehead wrinkles -25% <.001 Dyschromia of the lower face -17.2% <.001

It was therefore measured that the kit and the method according to the invention make it possible to achieve a performance threshold of <-0.5 on the following effects: fine lines, volume, tactile softness, radiance, forehead wrinkles and dyschromia of the lower face.

These results show that the kit and the process according to the invention confer an acceleration of anti-aging benefits, from one week of application, then after 1 month and 3 months of application. This effectiveness has been both perceived by consumers and measured by clinical studies.

The results obtained also showed that the different compositions were well tolerated by consumers, which is surprising taking into account the very high active content.

Claims (13)

Kit, preferably for the care of keratin materials, comprising:
- a first composition comprising between 1% and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid,
- a second composition comprising between 2% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives,
- a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and
- a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives,
wherein the first composition, the second composition, the third composition and the fourth composition are each placed separately from each other. Kit according to claim 1, in which the alpha-hydroxy acid of the first composition is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid or mandelic acid , preferably lactic acid. Kit according to claim 1 or 2, in which the content of alpha-hydroxy acid in the first composition ranges from 1.5% to 6% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.7% at 3.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives in the second composition ranges from 4% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 9% by weight , preferably from 6.5% to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the third composition comprises a mixture of at least two organic UV filters chosen from Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane and 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of UV filter(s) in the third composition ranges from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 15%. at 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the third composition. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of retinol and/or one of its derivatives in the fourth composition ranges from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the second composition further comprises between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, preferably between 0.2% and 1% by weight, preferably 0.3% and 0.7% by weight. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the second composition further comprises between 0.05% and 14% by weight, preferably between 1% and 12% by weight, preferably 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of a C-glycoside derivative of formula (V)

in which
R represents an alkyl radical, saturated in C1 to C10, in particular in C1 to C4, and which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR" ₂ , with R" ₂ being an alkyl radical, in C1 -C4 saturated,
S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of series L and/or D, said mono- or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and
_{* ​ ​ ​} CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β, as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fourth composition further comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably 1.5% and 3% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of at least one vitamin or a vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives , panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives, and/or any of their mixtures. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising:
- a first series of steps, including:
- a step a) of applying to said keratin materials a first composition comprising between 1 and 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, of an alpha-hydroxy acid, and optionally a beta-hydroxy acid ,
- a step b) of application to said keratin materials of a second composition comprising between 2 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives,
- a step c) of applying to said keratin materials a third composition comprising at least one UV filter, and
- a second series of steps, including:
- a step a') of application to said keratin materials of the first composition,
- a step b') of application to said keratin materials of the second composition, and
- a step c') of application to said keratin materials of a fourth composition comprising between 0.05% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fourth composition, of retinol and/or one of its derivatives. A method according to claim 12, wherein the first composition is according to claim 2 or 3, and/or the second composition is according to any one of claims 4, 8 or 9, and/or the third composition is according to claim 5 or 6, and/or the fourth composition is according to claim 7 or 10. Cosmetic use of a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 10 to reduce the appearance and/or attenuate the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular of the skin.