WO2012160289A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and homopolysaccharides - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and homopolysaccharides Download PDF

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WO2012160289A2
WO2012160289A2 PCT/FR2012/051068 FR2012051068W WO2012160289A2 WO 2012160289 A2 WO2012160289 A2 WO 2012160289A2 FR 2012051068 W FR2012051068 W FR 2012051068W WO 2012160289 A2 WO2012160289 A2 WO 2012160289A2
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composition
weight
name
company
composition according
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PCT/FR2012/051068
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French (fr)
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WO2012160289A3 (en
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Laure Fageon
Raluca Lorant
Karl Boutelet
Véronique Gourlaouen
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/546—Swellable particulate polymers

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides
  • the present application relates to an aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, the treatment of keratin materials.
  • aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, the treatment of keratin materials.
  • the skin tends to dry out due to environmental factors (pollution, wind, cold, air conditioning), psychological (fatigue, stress) or hormonal (menopause).
  • it is important that the skin is well hydrated and does not lose water, which can wilt
  • humectants which are hygroscopic substances that cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and by retention of water in the skin .
  • these humectants are the constituents of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), such as urea, or sugar polyols, or glycols.
  • NMF Natural Moisturizing Factor
  • humectants and more particularly sugars, or sugar derivatives, in a physiologically acceptable medium, causes an alteration of the sensory properties of the products.
  • introduction of a sugar, or a derivative of sugars causes a reduction of the aqueous sensation on application.
  • This sensory alteration causes an impression of lack of moisturizing effectiveness on application and is even more important that the level of sugars, or sugar derivatives, is important.
  • compositions having both a moisturizing sensation upon application and a real moisturizing efficacy on the skin after application (for example measurable with the aid of a corneometer).
  • compositions that are both aqueous application and containing a sugar or a derivative of sugars.
  • the Applicant has discovered that the cosmetic compositions comprising a carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides and a superabsorbent polymer have both a significant moisturizing efficacy, an aqueous sensation and fresh application.
  • the subject of the present invention is an aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes).
  • a physiologically acceptable medium ie a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes).
  • composition according to the invention has the advantage of having a very soft texture, non-tacky and fresh to the application, so very pleasant to use.
  • the subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, the protection and / or the make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair .
  • superabsorbent polymer is meant a polymer that is capable of being spontaneously absorbed at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water.
  • Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the book “Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. BRANNON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, Elsevier edition, 1990.
  • polymers have a high capacity for absorption and retention of water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles so imbibed with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.
  • the superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (ie 20 g to 2000 g absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal conditions of temperature (25 ° C) and pressure (760 mmHg or 100000 Pa) and for distilled water.
  • the value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer (s) in 150 g of a water solution, while waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution on a 150 ⁇ filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
  • the superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles.
  • the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry state or not hydrated, an average size less than or equal to 100 ⁇ , preferably less than or equal to 50 ⁇ , for example from 10 to 100 ⁇ , preferably from 15 to 50 ⁇ , and better from 20 to 30 ⁇ .
  • the average particle size corresponds to the average diameter by mass (D 50 ) measured by laser particle size distribution or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles having an average size ranging from 10 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ .
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.
  • Absorbent polymers chosen from:
  • crosslinked sodium polyacrylates for example those sold under the names Octacare X100, X1 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1 1 10 by the company BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing, or else AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika,
  • hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular acryloacrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A- 100, C-200, D-223, by the company Grain Processing (INCI name Starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer),
  • polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative such as that containing starch, guar gum and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, sold under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac,
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
  • the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked, preferably neutralized acrylic homo- or copolymers, which are in particulate form.
  • the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.
  • These polymers preferably have a water absorption capacity of 10 to 100 g / g, preferably 20 to 80 g / g and more preferably 40 to 80 g / g.
  • the superabsorbent polymer may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging for example from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0, 1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3%, or even from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Carbohydrate is meant any organic molecule containing a carbonyl group (aldehyde or ketone) and several hydroxyl groups (-OH). Carbohydrates were historically called carbohydrates or carbohydrates. Their chemical formula is based on the model C n (H20) p (hence the historical name). However, this model is not suitable for all carbohydrates, some of which contain heteroatoms such as nitrogen or phosphorus.
  • Carbohydrates usually include:
  • monosaccharides or oses that are simple, non-hydrolyzable molecules forming crystals. They are of two types: (a) aldoses comprising an aldehyde function on the first carbon and ketoses comprising a ketone function on the second carbon. They are also distinguished according to the number of carbon atoms they possess.
  • Polyholosides (polysaccharides) which are osteoside polymers having a chain of monosaccharides greater than 10 units for example: amylose, amylopectin, cellulose, glycogen.
  • oligosides and polysaccharides there are:
  • Homopolyosides are carbohydrates whose hydrolysis gives a single type of risk.
  • Heterosides and heteropolyosides are carbohydrates whose hydrolysis does not give a single type of risk. These are polymers of oste and non-carbohydrate molecule (s). As an example of a heteroside, mention may be made of salicyline.
  • the invention relates to carbohydrates of the family of:
  • trioses having 3 carbons dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehyde;
  • pentoses having 5 carbons ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, deoxyribose;
  • hexoses having 6 carbons allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose;
  • 7-carbon heptoses sedoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, taloheptulose;
  • hexoses and more particularly glucose, mannose or rhamnose.
  • oligosaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
  • Disaccharides or diholosides or diosides composed of two molecules of oste and which can be reducing or non-reducing.
  • “Disaccharide not reductant” any disaccharide whose carbon 1 carrying the hemiacetal OH is engaged in a bond, ie the hemiacetal function is not free.
  • the term “disaccharide reducer” any disaccharide therefore the hemiacetal function is free.
  • lactose lactose
  • maltose cellobiose
  • isomaltose lactose
  • melibiose lactose
  • homopolysaccharides consisting of the same monosaccharide
  • fructans glucans, galactans, mannan, for example
  • mannan for example
  • fructans glucans, galactans, mannan, for example
  • mannan for example
  • fructan including inulin, for example, which is a polyholoside composed of units of fructose linked by a link * ⁇ (2 ⁇ 1); the fructose chain ending in ⁇ -D-glucose;
  • homopolymers of glucan whose starches, for example, which are non-reducing homogeneous polyholosides consisting of two compounds: amylose (water-soluble), a glucose polymer bound by an ⁇ (1 ⁇ 4) bond (20 to 30%), and amylopectin (insoluble), branched amylose via a (1 ⁇ 6) bond (70 to 80%).
  • amylose water-soluble
  • a glucose polymer bound by an ⁇ (1 ⁇ 4) bond (20 to 30%
  • amylopectin insoluble
  • branched amylose via a (1 ⁇ 6) bond 70 to 80%.
  • glycogen which at structure level is almost identical to starch: it has more ramifications than starch (one branch every 10 glucose residues), the rest of the structure is identical to starch . Its molar mass is higher (of the order of 106 g / mol).
  • Cellulose too, which is a homogeneous polyholoside of glucose linked by a ⁇ bond (1 ⁇ 4).
  • dextrans which are compounds of D-glucose units linked by an ⁇ (1 ⁇ 6) glycosidic linkage.
  • homopolymers of galactane including agar-agar, for example, which is a mixed polyholoside consisting of D- and L-galactose esterified with sulfuric acid, or carrageenans. or homopolymers of xylose (xylanes) or of mannose (Mannanes).
  • the carbohydrate (s) are chosen from the monosaccharides.
  • the carbohydrate (s) of the ose family, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms conventionally used for topical applications, and in particular in the form of lotion or serum-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion, and in particular an O / W emulsion or a cream gel.
  • compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse.
  • the composition preferably has a skin-friendly pH which is generally from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition.
  • the amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight. % in weight.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the nature of the fatty phase of the composition is not critical.
  • the fatty phase can thus be constituted by all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it comprises in particular at least one oil (fatty substance liquid at 25 ° C.).
  • oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R a COOR b and ROR b in which R a represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R b represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates
  • substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil;
  • fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
  • alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;
  • fluorinated oils there may also be mentioned perfluoromethyl and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1 ®” and “PC3 FLUTEC ®” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ®” and "PF 5060 ®” by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 ®” by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine
  • silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
  • the other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; Vaseline paste.
  • the emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
  • the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emulsifiers examples include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid” by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C” by the company Dow Corning
  • co-emulsifiers can also be added.
  • the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters.
  • alkylated esters of polyol mention may be made especially of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI
  • sorbitan isostearate and glycerol such as the product sold under the
  • O / W emulsions mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • emulsifiers of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • glycerol ester and fatty acid there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • CFA name glyceryl stearate
  • glyceryl ricinoleate glyceryl ricinoleate
  • polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters examples include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.
  • surfactants for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate). ) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • fatty alcohol ethers mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned.
  • compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, gelling agents and / or hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents; dyestuffs (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide), nacres, soluble dyes), fillers; and their mixtures.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents other than the polymers described above include, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol ® (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate copolymer / Cio-C 3 o-alkylacrylate); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol ® (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate copolymer / Cio-C 3
  • Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name Bentone.
  • composition of the invention may comprise additional moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerine, glycols such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; the retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'
  • composition of the invention may also comprise hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation.
  • hydrophilic active agent means a compound having a solubility in water of at least 0.25% at ambient temperature (25 ° C.).
  • hydrophilic active agent sensitive to oxidation any active natural or synthetic origin likely to undergo degradation by an oxidation mechanism. This oxidation phenomenon can have several causes, in particular the presence of oxygen, light, metal ions, a high temperature, or certain pH conditions.
  • hydrophilic active agent that is sensitive to oxidation, and in a nonlimiting manner, is ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under PRO-AA), potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-21-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche Corporation as Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures.
  • ascorbic acid is used according to a preferred embodiment of the invention.
  • Ascorbic acid can be of any kind. Thus, it can be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of preferably concentrated orange juice. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form.
  • the composition may also comprise at least one UV filter which may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic screening agents and / or inorganic pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, lipophilic or insoluble.
  • Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; the imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by HOFFMANN LAROCHE,
  • Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP,
  • Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL” by SCHER,
  • TEA Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS” by Haarmann and REIMER, Derivatives of ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate:
  • UVINUL D50 Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
  • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid
  • Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 "by BASF,
  • Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name “Eusolex 232” by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name “NEO HELIOPAN AP” by Haarmann and REIMER,
  • UVASORB HEB Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB” by SIGMA 3V,
  • 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is incorporated in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985 .
  • Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE
  • the preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:
  • the inorganic UV filters that can be used in the context of the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 500 nm, and even more preferentially between 10 nm. and 100 nm, and preferably between 15 and 50 nm.
  • They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
  • Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • Commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.
  • the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium he
  • coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
  • silica such as the product "SUNVEIL” from the company IKEDA,
  • silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F” from the company IKEDA,
  • silica and alumina such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA” and “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA” from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL” from the company TIOXIDE,
  • alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)” and “TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)” from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
  • silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
  • alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S” from TAYCA,
  • iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F” from the company TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351" from the company Tayca,
  • silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS” from the company TAYCA,
  • silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA,
  • triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S” from TITAN KOGYO,
  • stearic acid such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)” from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W” from the company TAYCA.
  • TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices,
  • Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name “P 25”, by the WACKHER company under the name “transparent titanium oxide PW”, by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name “UFTR”, by TOMEN under the name "ITS” and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ”.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments for example:
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those marketed under the name “Nanogard WCD 2025” by Nanophase Technologies;
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name “Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN” by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
  • oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane
  • Nanox Gel TN those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN” by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
  • Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name “COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE” by the company RHONE POULENC.
  • Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names “NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", “NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ”, “NANOGARD FE 45R AQ,” NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name” TY-220 ".
  • coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008” (FE 45B FN) ",” NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) ",” NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 “,” NANOGARD FE 45 BL “, or by the company BASF under the name” OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
  • titanium oxides in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
  • TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
  • TiOIL A titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A”.
  • titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product” M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 21 1” sold by KEMIRA.
  • titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are particularly preferred.
  • fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures.
  • pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments
  • kaolin silica
  • talcum silica
  • talcum boron nitride
  • organic spherical powders, fibers and their mixtures.
  • organic spherical powders mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide-12 sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as
  • polyamide fibers such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66 ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures.
  • these fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions below were prepared.
  • the aqueous sensation provided by each of the compositions presented is evaluated visually and visually, by a panel of 10 experts, according to the following protocol.
  • the panel of experts trained in the description of skincare products evaluates the formulas in monadic.
  • the products are packaged in standard 15 mL clear pots and coded.
  • samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist. 0,05 ml of product are applied on half of the top of the hand (previously cleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped with a tissue), then spread out (10 turns with the index finger and the middle finger).
  • Aqueous sensation is defined as the sensation of droplets, drops, liquid puddles of water on the surface of the skin (regardless of color and texture) during application and is scored on a non-linear scale at 5 levels: Not, little, moderately (noted avg), enough and very.

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Abstract

The subject matter of the present invention is an aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and homopolysaccharides. The subject matter of the invention is also a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials, consisting in applying a composition as defined above to the keratin materials, and also the use of this composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care. The composition obtained according to the invention makes it possible to obtain significant moisturizing effectiveness, and an aqueous and fresh sensation on application. It has the advantage of having a texture which is very smooth, non-tacky and fresh on application, and therefore very pleasant to use.

Description

Composition cosmétique comprenant un polymère superabsorbant et un glucide choisi parmi les oses, les oligosides et les homopolyholosides  Cosmetic composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides
La présente demande se rapporte à une composition aqueuse pour application topique comprenant au moins un polymère superabsorbant et au moins 3 % en poids du poids total de la composition d'au moins un glucide choisi parmi les oses, les oligosides et les homopolyholosides, et à l'utilisation de la dite composition dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, en particulier pour le soin, le traitement des matières kératiniques. On sait que la peau a tendance à se dessécher du fait de facteurs environnementaux (pollution, vent, froid, air conditionné), psychologiques (fatigue, stress) ou hormonaux (ménopause). Or, il est important que la peau soit bien hydratée et ne subisse pas de perte en eau risquant d'entraîner un flétrissement et un dessèchement de la peau. The present application relates to an aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides, and the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, the treatment of keratin materials. We know that the skin tends to dry out due to environmental factors (pollution, wind, cold, air conditioning), psychological (fatigue, stress) or hormonal (menopause). However, it is important that the skin is well hydrated and does not lose water, which can wilt and dry the skin.
Les consommateurs attendent donc de leurs produits cosmétiques qu'ils hydratent bien leur peau. Consumers expect their cosmetic products to moisturize their skin.
La sensation de peau hydratée est véhiculée, à l'application, par des produits offrant une sensation aqueuse. A plus long terme, la sensation de peau hydratée est véhiculée par une sensation de peau souple et des couches supérieures de l'épiderme hydratées. Pour apporter cette hydratation des couches supérieures de l'épiderme, il est courant d'incorporer des humectants, qui sont des substances hygroscopiques qui provoquent une réhydratation de la peau par captation de l'eau atmosphérique et par rétention de l'eau dans la peau. Des exemples bien connus de ces humectants sont les constituants du NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), telle que l'urée, ou les polyols sucres, ou encore les glycols. L'efficacité hydratante de ces humectants est d'autant plus importante que leur taux est important. The sensation of hydrated skin is conveyed, on application, by products offering an aqueous sensation. In the longer term, the feeling of hydrated skin is conveyed by a soft skin sensation and the upper layers of the epidermis hydrated. To provide this hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis, it is common to incorporate humectants, which are hygroscopic substances that cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and by retention of water in the skin . Well-known examples of these humectants are the constituents of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), such as urea, or sugar polyols, or glycols. The moisturizing effectiveness of these humectants is even more important that their rate is important.
Cependant, l'introduction de ces agents humectants, et plus particulièrement les sucres, ou les dérivés de sucres, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, entraîne une altération des propriétés sensorielles des produits. En effet, l'introduction d'un sucre, ou d'un dérivé de sucres, entraine une réduction de la sensation aqueuse à l'application. Cette altération sensorielle provoque une impression de manque d'efficacité hydratante à l'application et est d'autant plus importante que le taux de sucres, ou de dérivés de sucres, est important. However, the introduction of these humectants, and more particularly sugars, or sugar derivatives, in a physiologically acceptable medium, causes an alteration of the sensory properties of the products. Indeed, the introduction of a sugar, or a derivative of sugars, causes a reduction of the aqueous sensation on application. This sensory alteration causes an impression of lack of moisturizing effectiveness on application and is even more important that the level of sugars, or sugar derivatives, is important.
Il subsiste donc le besoin de réaliser des compositions présentant à la fois une sensation d'hydratation à l'application et une efficacité hydratante réelle sur la peau après application (mesurable par exemple à l'aide d'un cornéomètre).  There is therefore still a need to produce compositions having both a moisturizing sensation upon application and a real moisturizing efficacy on the skin after application (for example measurable with the aid of a corneometer).
En d'autres termes, il subsiste le besoin de réaliser des compositions cosmétiques qui soient à la fois aqueuses à l'application et contenant un sucre ou un dérivé de sucres. La demanderesse a découvert que les compositions cosmétiques comprenant un glucide choisi parmi les oses, les oligosides et les homopolyholosides et un polymère superabsorbant présentaient à la fois une efficacité hydratante significative, une sensation aqueuse et fraîche à l'application. In other words, there remains the need to make cosmetic compositions that are both aqueous application and containing a sugar or a derivative of sugars. The Applicant has discovered that the cosmetic compositions comprising a carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides and a superabsorbent polymer have both a significant moisturizing efficacy, an aqueous sensation and fresh application.
Ainsi, la présente invention a pour objet une composition aqueuse pour application topique comprenant au moins un polymère superabsorbant et au moins 3 % en poids du poids total de la composition d'au moins un glucide choisi parmi les oses, les oligosides et les homopolyholosides. Thus, the subject of the present invention is an aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and at least 3% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses, oligosides and homopolyholosides.
La composition de l'invention étant destinée à une application topique sur la peau ou les phanères, elle comprend un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire un milieu compatible avec toutes les matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les ongles, les muqueuses et les fibres kératiniques (telles que les cheveux, les cils).  Since the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes).
La composition selon l'invention présente l'avantage d'avoir une texture très douce, non collante et fraîche à l'application, donc très agréable à utiliser.  The composition according to the invention has the advantage of having a very soft texture, non-tacky and fresh to the application, so very pleasant to use.
L'invention a également pour objet l'utilisation de la dite composition dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique, et en particulier pour le soin, la protection et/ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage, ou pour le soin des cheveux. The subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, the protection and / or the make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, or for the care of the hair .
Dans ce qui va suivre, et à moins d'une autre indication, les bornes d'un domaine de valeurs sont comprises dans ce domaine.  In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.
Polymères superabsorbants Superabsorbent polymers
On entend par « polymère superabsorbant », un polymère qui est apte à son état sec à absorber spontanément au moins 20 fois son propre poids de fluide aqueux, en particulier d'eau et notamment d'eau distillée. De tels polymères super absorbants sont décrits dans l'ouvrage "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" de L. BRANNON-PAPPAS et R. HARLAND, édition Elsevier, 1990.  By "superabsorbent polymer" is meant a polymer that is capable of being spontaneously absorbed at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the book "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" by L. BRANNON-PAPPAS and R. HARLAND, Elsevier edition, 1990.
Ces polymères ont une grande capacité d'absorption et de rétention de l'eau et de fluides aqueux. Après absorption du liquide aqueux, les particules du polymère ainsi imbibées de fluide aqueux restent insolubles dans le fluide aqueux et conservent ainsi leur état particulaire individualisé.  These polymers have a high capacity for absorption and retention of water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles so imbibed with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.
Le polymère superabsorbant peut avoir une capacité d'absorption d'eau allant de 20 à 2000 fois son propre poids (soit 20 g à 2000 g d'eau absorbée par gramme de polymère absorbant), de préférence de 30 à 1500 fois, et mieux de 50 à 1000 fois. Ces caractéristiques d'absorption d'eau sont définies aux conditions normales de température (25 °C) et de pression (760 mm Hg soit 100000 Pa) et pour de l'eau distillée.  The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (ie 20 g to 2000 g absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and better from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal conditions of temperature (25 ° C) and pressure (760 mmHg or 100000 Pa) and for distilled water.
La valeur de la capacité d'absorption d'eau d'un polymère peut être déterminée en dispersant 0,5 g de polymère(s) dans 150 g d'une solution d'eau, en attendant 20 minutes, en filtrant la solution non absorbée sur un filtre de 150 μηη pendant 20 minutes et en pesant l'eau non absorbée. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer (s) in 150 g of a water solution, while waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution on a 150 μηη filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.
Le polymère superabsorbant utilisé dans la composition de l'invention se présente sous forme de particules. De préférence, le polymère superabsorbant présente, à l'état sec ou non hydraté, une taille moyenne inférieure ou égale à 100 μηη, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 50 μηι, allant par exemple de 10 à 100 μηι, de préférence de 15 à 50 μηι, et mieux de 20 à 30 μηη.  The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry state or not hydrated, an average size less than or equal to 100 μηη, preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι, for example from 10 to 100 μηι, preferably from 15 to 50 μηι, and better from 20 to 30 μηη.
La taille moyenne des particules correspond au diamètre moyen en masse (D50) mesurée par granulométrie laser ou autre méthode équivalente connue de l'homme du métier. Ces particules, une fois hydratées, gonflent en formant des particules molles ayant une taille moyenne pouvant aller de 10 μηη à 1000 μηη. The average particle size corresponds to the average diameter by mass (D 50 ) measured by laser particle size distribution or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell to form soft particles having an average size ranging from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη.
De préférence, les polymères superabsorbants utilisés dans la présente invention se présentent sous forme de particules sphériques.  Preferably, the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.
On peut citer notamment les polymères absorbants choisis parmi :  Absorbent polymers chosen from:
- les polyacrylates de sodium réticulés comme par exemple ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations Octacare X100, X1 10 et RM100 par la société Avecia, ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations Flocare GB300 et le Flosorb 500 par la société SNF, ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 et Luquasorb 1 1 10 par la société BASF, ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations Water Lock G400 et G430 (nom INCI : Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) par la société Grain Processing, ou encore Γ AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF proposé par la société Sumitomo Seika, crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, for example those sold under the names Octacare X100, X1 and RM100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1 1 10 by the company BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing, or else AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika,
- les amidons greffés par un polymère acrylique (homopolymère ou copolymère) et notamment par le polyacrylate de sodium, tels que ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination Sanfresh ST-100MC par la société Sanyo Chemical Industries ou Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 par la société Daito Kasei (nom INCI Sodium polyacrylate Starch),  starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and especially with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100 ™ by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei ( INCI name Sodium Polyacrylate Starch),
- les amidons hydrolysés greffés par un polymère acrylique (homopolymère ou copolymère) et notamment le copolymère acryloacrylamide/acrylate de sodium, comme ceux commercialisées sous les dénominations Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200, D-223, par la société Grain Processing (nom INCI Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer),  hydrolysed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular acryloacrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A- 100, C-200, D-223, by the company Grain Processing (INCI name Starch / acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer),
- les polymères à base d'amidon, de gomme et de dérivé cellulosique, tels que celui contenant de l'amidon, de la gomme de guar et de la carboxymethyl cellulose de sodium, commercialisé sous la dénomination Lysorb 220 par la société Lysac,  polymers based on starch, gum and cellulose derivative, such as that containing starch, guar gum and sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, sold under the name Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac,
- et leurs mélanges. Les polymères superabsorbants utilisés dans la présente invention peuvent être réticulés ou non réticulés. Ils sont de préférence choisis parmi les polymères réticulés. - and their mixtures. The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.
Les polymères superabsorbants utilisés dans la présente invention sont de préférence des homo- ou copolymères acryliques réticulés, de préférence neutralisés, qui se présentent sous forme particulaire. The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked, preferably neutralized acrylic homo- or copolymers, which are in particulate form.
De préférence, le polymère superabsorbant est choisi parmi les polyacrylates de sodium réticulés, de préférence sous forme de particules ayant une taille moyenne (ou diamètre moyen) inférieure ou égale à 100 microns, de préférence encore sous forme de particules sphériques. Ces polymères ont de préférence une capacité d'absorption d'eau de 10 à 100 g/g, de préférence de 20 à 80 g/g et mieux de 40 à 80 g/g.  Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having a mean size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. These polymers preferably have a water absorption capacity of 10 to 100 g / g, preferably 20 to 80 g / g and more preferably 40 to 80 g / g.
Le polymère superabsorbant peut être présent dans la composition de l'invention en une teneur en matière active allant par exemple de 0,05 à 15 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 0,1 à 3%, voire de 0,1 à 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The superabsorbent polymer may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging for example from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0, 1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3%, or even from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Glucide de la famille des oses, ou des oligosides, ou des homopolyholosides Carbohydrate of the family of oses, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides
On entend par « glucide » toute molécule organique contenant un groupement carbonyle (aldéhyde ou cétone) et plusieurs groupements hydroxyle (-OH) . Les glucides étaient historiquement appelés hydrates de carbone ou carbohydrates. Leur formule chimique est basée sur le modèle Cn(H20)p (d'où l'appellation historique). Cependant, ce modèle ne convient pas pour tous les glucides, qui contiennent, pour certains, des hétéroatomes comme l'azote ou le phosphore. By "carbohydrate" is meant any organic molecule containing a carbonyl group (aldehyde or ketone) and several hydroxyl groups (-OH). Carbohydrates were historically called carbohydrates or carbohydrates. Their chemical formula is based on the model C n (H20) p (hence the historical name). However, this model is not suitable for all carbohydrates, some of which contain heteroatoms such as nitrogen or phosphorus.
Les glucides comprennent habituellement : Carbohydrates usually include:
(1 ) les monosaccharides ou oses qui sont des molécules simples, non hydrolysables formant des cristaux. Ils sont de deux types : (a) les aldoses comprenant une fonction aldéhyde sur le premier carbone et les cétoses comprenant une fonction cétone sur le deuxième carbone. On les distingue aussi suivant le nombre d'atomes de carbone qu'ils possèdent. (1) monosaccharides or oses that are simple, non-hydrolyzable molecules forming crystals. They are of two types: (a) aldoses comprising an aldehyde function on the first carbon and ketoses comprising a ketone function on the second carbon. They are also distinguished according to the number of carbon atoms they possess.
(2) les oligosaccharides ou oligosides qui sont des polymères d'osés ayant un enchaînement de monosaccharides comprenant de 2 à 10 unités monosaccharides unies par des liaisons glycosidiques. (3) Les polyholosides (polysaccharides) qui sont des polymères d'osés ayant un enchaînement de monosaccharides supérieur à 10 unités (exemple : amylose, amylopectine, cellulose, glycogène). Parmi les oligosides et polyosides, on distingue : (2) Oligosaccharides or oligosides which are osteoside polymers having a chain of monosaccharides comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units united by glycosidic linkages. (3) Polyholosides (polysaccharides) which are osteoside polymers having a chain of monosaccharides greater than 10 units (for example: amylose, amylopectin, cellulose, glycogen). Among the oligosides and polysaccharides, there are:
- les homopolyosides sont les glucides dont l'hydrolyse donne un seul type d'osés.  - Homopolyosides are carbohydrates whose hydrolysis gives a single type of risk.
- les hétérosides et hétéropolyosides sont les glucides dont l'hydrolyse ne donne pas qu'un seul type d'osés. Ce sont des polymères d'osés et de molécule(s) non glucidique. A titre d'exemple d'hétéroside, on peut citer la salicyline.  - Heterosides and heteropolyosides are carbohydrates whose hydrolysis does not give a single type of risk. These are polymers of oste and non-carbohydrate molecule (s). As an example of a heteroside, mention may be made of salicyline.
L'invention concerne les glucides de la famille des : The invention relates to carbohydrates of the family of:
monosaccharides ou oses,  monosaccharides or dares,
oligosaccharides ou oligosides,  oligosaccharides or oligosides,
polysaccharides de type homopolyholosides.  polysaccharides of the homopolyholoside type.
(1 ) Les oses (1) The oses
Parmi les oses ou monosaccharides utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer :  Among the monosaccharides or monosaccharides that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
- les trioses possédant 3 carbones : dihydroxyacétone, glycéraldéhyde ;  trioses having 3 carbons: dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehyde;
- les tétroses possédant 4 carbones : érythrose, thréose, érythrulose ;  - 4-carbon tetroses: erythrose, threose, erythrulose;
- les pentoses possédant 5 carbones : ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, désoxyribose ; pentoses having 5 carbons: ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, deoxyribose;
- les hexoses possédant 6 carbones : allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose ;  hexoses having 6 carbons: allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose;
- les heptoses possédant 7 carbones : sédoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, taloheptulose ; 7-carbon heptoses: sedoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, taloheptulose;
- les octoses possédant 8 carbones ;  octoses having 8 carbons;
- les oses possédant plus de 8 carbones comme par exemple le maltitol ;  - Ooses with more than 8 carbons such as maltitol;
sous leur forme D ou L. in their D or L form.
Parmi ces oses, on utilisera plus préférentiellement les hexoses et plus particulièrement le glucose, le mannose ou le rhamnose. Among these doses, use will more preferably hexoses and more particularly glucose, mannose or rhamnose.
(2) Les oligosaccarides (2) Oligosaccharides
Parmi les oligosaccharides utilisables selon l'invention, on peut citer :  Among the oligosaccharides that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
(i) Les disaccharides ou diholosides ou diosides composés de deux molécules d'osé et pouvant être réducteurs ou non-réducteurs. On entend par « disaccharide non réducteur » tout disaccharide dont le carbone 1 portant le OH hémiacétalique est engagé dans une liaison, à savoir donc la fonction hémiacétalique n'est pas libre. On entend par « disaccharide réducteur » tout disaccharide donc la fonction hémiacétalique est libre. Parmi les disaccharides non réducteurs, on peut citer le saccharose, le tréhalose. (i) Disaccharides or diholosides or diosides composed of two molecules of oste and which can be reducing or non-reducing. "Disaccharide not reductant "any disaccharide whose carbon 1 carrying the hemiacetal OH is engaged in a bond, ie the hemiacetal function is not free. The term "disaccharide reducer" any disaccharide therefore the hemiacetal function is free. Among the non-reducing disaccharides, mention may be made of sucrose and trehalose.
Parmi les disaccharides réducteurs, on peut citer le lactose, le maltose, le cellobiose, l'isomaltose, le mélibiose. Among the reducing disaccharides, mention may be made of lactose, maltose, cellobiose, isomaltose and melibiose.
(ii) Les triholosides composés de trois molécules d'osés tels que par exemple le raffinose, le gentianose, le melezitose. (ii) triholosides composed of three molecules of osteos such as for example raffinose, gentianose, melezitose.
(iii) les dextrines et cyclodextrines qui sont des mélange de gluco-oligosides (des oligoside de glucose) linéaires dont les unités de glucose sont liées par des liaisons osidiques du type a-(1 ,4) mais dont le groupement est lié par une liaison osidique a-(1 ,6). (3) les homopolvsaccharides ou homoglvcane (iii) dextrins and cyclodextrins which are mixtures of linear gluco-oligosides (glucose oligosides) whose glucose units are linked by α- (1,4) -sidic bonds but whose group is linked by a osidic bond a- (1, 6). (3) homopolvsaccharides or homoglvcane
Parmi les polysaccharides ou polyholosides, on considère ici les homopolysaccharides (ou homoglycanes) constitués du même monosaccharide : fructanes, glucanes, galactanes, mannanes, par exemple ; pouvant être linéaires, ramifiés ou mixtes. On peut citer par exemple :  Among the polysaccharides or polyholosides, homopolysaccharides (or homoglycans) consisting of the same monosaccharide are considered here: fructans, glucans, galactans, mannan, for example; can be linear, branched or mixed. For example:
les homopolymères de fructane dont l'inuline, par exemple, qui est un polyholoside composé d'unités de fructose reliées par un lien * β (2 → 1 ) ; la chaîne fructose se terminant par un α-D-glucose ; homopolymers of fructan including inulin, for example, which is a polyholoside composed of units of fructose linked by a link * β (2 → 1); the fructose chain ending in α-D-glucose;
les homopolymères de glucane dont les amidons, par exemple, qui sont des polyholosides homogènes non réducteurs constitués de deux composés : l'amylose (hydrosoluble), polymère de glucose lié par une liaison a(1→4) (20 à 30 %), et l'amylopectine (insoluble), amylose ramifié par une liaison a(1→6) (70 à 80 %). On peut également citer le glycogène, qui au niveau structure est pratiquement identique à l'amidon : il possède plus de ramifications que l'amidon (une ramification tous les 10 résidus glucose), tout le reste de la structure est identique à l'amidon. Sa masse molaire est plus élevée (de l'ordre de 106 g.mol-1 ). La cellulose, également, qui est un polyholoside homogène de glucose liés par une liaison β(1→4). Ou encore, les dextranes qui sont des composés d'unités D-glucose reliées par une liaison osidique a(1→6). les homopolymères degalactane dont l'agar-agar, par exemple, qui est un polyholoside mixte constitué de D- et L-galactose estérifié par de l'acide sulfurique, ou les caraghénanes. - ou encore les homopolymères de xylose (xylanes), ou de mannose (Mannanes). homopolymers of glucan whose starches, for example, which are non-reducing homogeneous polyholosides consisting of two compounds: amylose (water-soluble), a glucose polymer bound by an α (1 → 4) bond (20 to 30%), and amylopectin (insoluble), branched amylose via a (1 → 6) bond (70 to 80%). We can also mention glycogen, which at structure level is almost identical to starch: it has more ramifications than starch (one branch every 10 glucose residues), the rest of the structure is identical to starch . Its molar mass is higher (of the order of 106 g / mol). Cellulose, too, which is a homogeneous polyholoside of glucose linked by a β bond (1 → 4). Or again, dextrans which are compounds of D-glucose units linked by an α (1 → 6) glycosidic linkage. homopolymers of galactane including agar-agar, for example, which is a mixed polyholoside consisting of D- and L-galactose esterified with sulfuric acid, or carrageenans. or homopolymers of xylose (xylanes) or of mannose (Mannanes).
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l'invention, le ou les glucides sont choisis parmi les oses. Le ou les glucides de la famille des oses, ou des oligosides, ou des homopolyholosides sont présents dans la composition selon l'invention en quantité allant de 3 à 30 % en poids du poids total de la composition, de préférence de 3 à 20 % en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 10 % en poids. La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous diverses formes galéniques classiquement utilisée pour les applications topiques, et notamment sous forme de dispersions du type lotion ou sérum, d'émulsions de consistance liquide ou semi-liquide du type lait, obtenues par dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse (H/E) ou inversement (E/H), ou de suspensions ou émulsions de consistance molle, semi- solide ou solide du type crème ou gel, ou encore d'émulsions multiples (E/H/E ou H/E/H), de microémulsions, de dispersions vésiculaires de type ionique et/ou non ionique, ou des dispersions cire/phase aqueuse. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the carbohydrate (s) are chosen from the monosaccharides. The carbohydrate (s) of the ose family, or oligosides, or homopolyholosides are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight. The composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms conventionally used for topical applications, and in particular in the form of lotion or serum-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, la composition se présente sous forme d'une émulsion, et notamment d'une émulsion H/E ou d'un gel crème.  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, and in particular an O / W emulsion or a cream gel.
En outre, les compositions utilisées selon l'invention peuvent être plus ou moins fluides et avoir l'aspect d'un gel, d'une crème blanche ou colorée, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse. La composition présente de préférence un pH qui respecte la peau et qui va généralement de 3 à 8 et de préférence de 4,5 à 7.  In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a mousse. The composition preferably has a skin-friendly pH which is generally from 3 to 8 and preferably from 4.5 to 7.
Phase aqueuse Aqueous phase
La phase aqueuse de la composition conforme à l'invention comprend au moins de l'eau. Selon la forme galénique de la composition, la quantité de phase aqueuse peut aller de 0,1 à 99 % en poids, de préférence de 0,5 à 98 % en poids, mieux de 30 à 95 % en poids, et encore mieux de 40 à 95 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cette quantité dépend de la forme galénique de la composition désirée. La quantité d'eau peut représenter tout ou une partie de la phase aqueuse, et elle est généralement d'au moins 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence au moins 50 % en poids, mieux au moins 60 % en poids. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least water. According to the dosage form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 98% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 95% by weight, and even more preferably from 40 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the dosage form of the desired composition. The amount of water may represent all or part of the aqueous phase, and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight. % in weight.
La phase aqueuse peut comprendre au moins un solvant hydrophile comme par exemple les mono-alcools inférieurs substantiellement linéaires ou ramifiés ayant de 1 à 8 atomes de carbone, comme l'éthanol, le propanol, le butanol, l'isopropanol, l'isobutanol ; les polyols tels que le propylène glycol, l'isoprène glycol, le butylène glycol, le propylène glycol, le glycérol, le sorbitol, les polyéthylènes gycols et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges. The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
Phase grasse Fatty phase
Lorsqu'elle se présente sous forme d'émulsion, la composition selon l'invention peut comprendre une phase grasse. La proportion de la phase grasse de l'émulsion peut aller par exemple de 1 à 80 % en poids, de préférence de 2 à 50 % en poids, et mieux de 5 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  When it is in the form of an emulsion, the composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase. The proportion of the fatty phase of the emulsion may range, for example, from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La nature de la phase grasse de la composition n'est pas critique. La phase grasse peut ainsi être constituée par tous les corps gras classiquement utilisés dans les domaines cosmétique ou dermatologique, elle comprend notamment au moins une huile (corps gras liquide à 25 °C).  The nature of the fatty phase of the composition is not critical. The fatty phase can thus be constituted by all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it comprises in particular at least one oil (fatty substance liquid at 25 ° C.).
Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple :As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène ; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité ;  hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules RaCOORb et RORb dans laquelle Ra représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et Rb représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2- hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R a COOR b and ROR b in which R a represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R b represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- les hydrocarbures substantiellement linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, l'isohexadecane, l'isododecane, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam® ;  substantially linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil;
- les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique ; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;
- les alcools gras alcoxylés et notamment éthoxylés tels que l'oleth-12, le ceteareth-12 et le ceteareth-20 ;  alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-12, ceteareth-12 and ceteareth-20;
- les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912. Comme huiles fluorées, on peut citer aussi le perfluorométhylcyclopentane et le perfluoro-1 ,3 diméthylcyclohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "FLUTEC PC1®" et "FLUTEC PC3®" par la Société BNFL Fluorochemicals ; le perfluoro-1 ,2-diméthylcyclobutane ; les perfluoroalcanes tels que le dodécafluoropentane et le tétradécafluorohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "PF 5050®" et "PF 5060®" par la Société 3M, ou encore le bromoperfluorooctyle vendu sous la dénomination "FORALKYL®" par la Société Atochem ; le nonafluorométhoxybutane vendu sous la dénomination "MSX 4518®" par la Société 3M et le nonafluoroéthoxyisobutane ; les dérivés de perfluoromorpholine, tels que la 4- trifluorométhyl perfluoromorpholine vendue sous la dénomination "PF 5052®" par la Société 3M ; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, there may also be mentioned perfluoromethyl and perfluoro-1, 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1 ®" and "PC3 FLUTEC ®" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ®" and "PF 5060 ®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL ®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 ®" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the designation "PF ® 5052" by 3M Company;
- les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée substantiellement linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexadiméthylsiloxane et la cyclopentadiméthylsiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ; - leurs mélanges. silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a substantially linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.
On entend par « huile hydrocarbonée » dans la liste des huiles citées ci-dessus, toute huile comportant majoritairement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement des groupements ester, éther, fluoré, acide carboxylique et/ou alcool. Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique ; les cires comme la lanoline, la cire d'abeille, la cire de Carnauba ou de Candellila, les cires de paraffine, de lignite ou les cires microcristallines, la cérésine ou l'ozokérite, les cires synthétiques comme les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de Fischer-Tropsch ; la pâte de vaseline.  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; Vaseline paste.
Ces corps gras peuvent être choisis de manière variée par l'homme du métier afin de préparer une composition ayant les propriétés, par exemple de consistance ou de texture, souhaitées. Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E).  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
Les émulsionnants sont généralement présents dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,1 à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,2 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.  The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Pour les émulsions E/H, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants les dimethicone copolyols tels que le mélange de cyclomethicone et de dimethicone copolyol, vendu sous la dénomination « DC 5225 C » par la société Dow Corning, et les alkyl-dimethicone copolyols tels que le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow Corning et le Cetyl dimethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination ABIL EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt, ou le mélange polyglycéryl-4 isostéarate/cétyl diméthicone copolyol/hexyllaurate vendu sous la dénomination ABIL WE 09 par la société Goldschmidt. On peut y ajouter aussi un ou plusieurs co-émulsionnants. De manière avantageuse, le co-émulsionnant peut être choisi dans le groupe comprenant les esters alkylés de polyol. Comme esters alkylés de polyol, on peut citer notamment les esters de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan et par exemple l'isostéarate de polyglycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Isolan Gl 34 par la société Goldschmidt, l'isostéarate de sorbitan, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 987 par la société ICI, l'isostéarate de sorbitan et de glycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 986 par la société ICI, et leurs mélanges. Pour les émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple comme émulsionnants, les tensioactifs non ioniques, et notamment les esters de polyols et d'acide gras à chaîne saturée ou insaturée comportant par exemple de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone et mieux de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés, c'est-à-dire comportant des unités oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés, tels les esters de glycéryle et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les esters de polyéthylène glycol et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les esters de sorbitol et d'acide gras en C8-C24, et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; et leurs dérivés oxyalkylénés ; les éthers d'alcools gras ; les éthers de sucre et d'alcools gras en C8-C24, et leurs mélanges. For the W / O emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by the company Dow Corning, and the alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 R by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added. Advantageously, the co-emulsifier may be chosen from the group comprising the alkylated polyol esters. As alkylated esters of polyol, mention may be made especially of glycerol and / or sorbitan esters and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. For the O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid and polyol esters containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. at 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acids, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
Comme ester de glycéryle et d'acide gras, on peut citer notamment le stéarate de glycéryle (mono-, di- et/ou tri-stéarate de glycéryle) (nom CTFA : glyceryl stéarate) ou le ricinoléate de glycéryle, et leurs mélanges. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.
Comme ester de polyéthylène glycol et d'acide gras, on peut citer notamment le stéarate de polyéthylène glycol (mono-, di- et/ou tri-stéarate de polyéthylène glycol), et plus spécialement le monostéarate de polyéthylène glycol 50 OE (nom CTFA : PEG-50 stéarate), le monostéarate de polyéthylène glycol 100 OE (nom CTFA : PEG-100 stéarate et leurs mélanges.  Examples of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include polyethylene glycol stearate (mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate of polyethylene glycol), and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name). PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.
On peut aussi utiliser des mélanges de ces tensioactifs, comme par exemple le produit contenant du Glyceryl stéarate et du PEG-100 stéarate, commercialisé sous la dénomination ARLACEL 165 par la société Uniqema, et le produit contenant du Glyceryl stéarate (mono-distéarate de glycéryle) et du stéarate de potassium, commercialisé sous la dénomination TEGIN par la société Goldschmidt (nom CTFA : glyceryl stéarate SE). Comme éthers d'alcools gras, on peut citer par exemple les éthers de polyéthylène glycol et d'alcool gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, et notamment de 10 à22 atomes de carbone, tels que les éthers de polyéthylène glycol et d'alcools cétylique, stéarylique, cetéarylique (mélange d'alcools cétylique et stéarylique). On peut citer par exemple les éthers comportant de 1 à 200 et de préférence de 2 à 100 groupes oxyéthylénés, tels que ceux de nom CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, et leurs mélanges.  It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-distearate). ) and potassium stearate, sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE). As fatty alcohol ethers, mention may be made, for example, of ethers of polyethylene glycol and of fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ethers of polyethylene glycol and of Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols). For example, ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated groups, such as CTFA Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof, may be mentioned.
On peut citer à titre d'exemples de mono ou polyalkylesters ou éthers de sucre l'isostéarate de méthylglucose commercialisé sous la dénomination Isolan-IS par la société Degussa Goldschmidt, ou encore le sucrose distéarate commercialisé sous la dénomination Crodesta F50 par la société Croda, et le sucrose stéarate commercialisé sous la dénomination Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 par la société Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods. On peut également citer les lipoaminoacides et leurs sels tels que les acylglutamates mono- et di- sodiques comme par exemple le mono sodium stéaroyl glutamate commercialisé sous la dénomination Amisoft HS-1 1 PF et le disodium stearoyl glutamate commercialisé sous la dénomination Amisoft HS-21 P par la société Ajinomoto. Mention may be made, by way of examples of mono or polyalkyl esters or sugar ethers, of the methylglucose isostearate sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt or the sucrose distearate sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda. and the sucrose stearate sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods. Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and di-sodium acylglutamates, for example mono-sodium stearoyl glutamate. sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed under the name Amisoft HS-21 P by Ajinomoto.
De façon connue, toutes les compositions de l'invention peuvent contenir un ou plusieurs des adjuvants habituels dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, des agents gélifiants et / ou épaississants hydrophiles ou lipophiles ; des agents hydratants ; des émollients ; des actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles ; des agents anti-radicaux libres ; des séquestrants ; des antioxydants ; des conservateurs ; des agents alcanisants ou acidifiants ; des parfums ; des agents filmogènes ; des matières colorantes (pigments tels que les oxydes de fer et le dioxyde de titane), nacres, colorants solubles) , des charges ; et leurs mélanges. In known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, gelling agents and / or hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners; moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; film-forming agents; dyestuffs (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide), nacres, soluble dyes), fillers; and their mixtures.
Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans les domaines considérés. En particulier, les quantités d'actifs varient selon le but recherché et sont celles classiquement utilisées dans les domaines considérés, et par exemple de 0,1 à 20 %, et de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % en poids du poids total de la composition.  The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Comme gélifiants hydrophiles autres que les polymères décrits ci-dessus, on peut citer par exemple les polymères carboxyvinyliques tels que les carbopols ® (carbomers) et les Pemulen (Copolymère acrylate/Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate) ; les polyacrylamides comme par exemple les copolymères réticulés vendus sous les noms Sepigel 305 (nom C.T.F.A. : polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) ou Simulgel 600 (nom C.T.F.A. : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) par la société Seppic ; les dérivés cellulosiques tels que l'hydroxyéthylcellulose ; les polysaccharides et notamment les gommes telles que la gomme de xanthane ; et leurs mélanges. As hydrophilic gelling agents other than the polymers described above include, for example, carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol ® (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate copolymer / Cio-C 3 o-alkylacrylate); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic ; cellulosic derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and especially gums such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.
Comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées telles que le l'hectorite et ses dérivés, comme les produits commercialisés sous les noms de Bentone.  Lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as hectorite and its derivatives, such as the products sold under the name Bentone.
Actifs assets
La composition de l'invention peut comprendre des agents hydratants additionnels tels que les hydrolysats de protéines et les polyols comme la glycérine, les glycols comme les polyéthylène glycols ; les extraits naturels ; les anti-inflammatoires ; les oligomères procyannidoliques ; les vitamines comme la vitamine A (rétinol), la vitamine E (tocophérol), la vitamine B5 (panthénol), la vitamine B3 (niacinamide), les dérivés de ces vitamines (notamment esters) et leurs mélanges ; la caféine ; les dépigmentants tels que l'acide kojique, l'hydroquinone et l'acide caféique ; l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés ; les alpha-hydroxyacides tels que l'acide lactique et l'acide glycolique et leurs dérivés ; les rétinoïdes tels que les caroténoïdes et les dérivés de vitamine A ; l'hydrocortisone ; la mélatonine ; les extraits d'algues, de champignons, de végétaux, de levures, de bactéries ; les stéroïdes ; les actifs anti-bactériens comme le 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphényl éther (ou triclosan), le 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (ou triclocarban) et les acides indiqués ci-dessus et notamment l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés ; les agents tenseurs ; et leurs mélanges. The composition of the invention may comprise additional moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates and polyols such as glycerine, glycols such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; the retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial active agents such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular the salicylic acid and its derivatives; tensors; and their mixtures.
La composition de l'invention peut aussi comprendre des actifs hydrophiles sensibles à l'oxydation. Selon l'invention, on entend par « actif hydrophile », un composé ayant une solubilité dans l'eau d'au moins 0,25 % à température ambiante (25 °C). En outre, selon l'invention, on entend par « actif hydrophile sensible à l'oxydation » tout actif d'origine naturelle ou synthétique susceptible de subir une dégradation par un mécanisme d'oxydation. Ce phénomène d'oxydation peut avoir plusieurs causes, en particulier la présence d'oxygène, de lumière, d'ions métalliques, une température élevée, ou encore certaines conditions de pH. The composition of the invention may also comprise hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation. According to the invention, the term "hydrophilic active agent" means a compound having a solubility in water of at least 0.25% at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). In addition, according to the invention, the term "hydrophilic active agent sensitive to oxidation" any active natural or synthetic origin likely to undergo degradation by an oxidation mechanism. This oxidation phenomenon can have several causes, in particular the presence of oxygen, light, metal ions, a high temperature, or certain pH conditions.
On peut citer à titre d'exemple d'actif hydrophile sensible à l'oxydation, et de façon non limitative, l'acide ascorbique et ses dérivés tels que le 5,6-di-O-diméthylsilylascorbate (vendu par la Sté Exsymol sous la référence PRO-AA), le sel de potassium du dl-alpha- tocopheryl-2l-ascorbyl-phosphate (vendu par la Société Senju Pharmaceutical sous la référence SEPIVITAL EPC), l'ascorbyl phosphate de magnésium, l'ascorbyl phosphate de sodium (vendu par la Société Roche sous la référence Stay-C 50) ; le phloroglucinol ; les enzymes ; et leurs mélanges. Parmi les actifs hydrophiles sensibles à l'oxydation, on utilise selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention l'acide ascorbique. L'acide ascorbique peut être de toute nature. Ainsi, il peut être d'origine naturelle sous forme de poudre ou sous forme de jus d'orange de préférence concentré. Il peut être aussi d'origine synthétique, de préférence sous forme de poudre.  An example of a hydrophilic active agent that is sensitive to oxidation, and in a nonlimiting manner, is ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under PRO-AA), potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-21-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche Corporation as Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures. Among the hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation, ascorbic acid is used according to a preferred embodiment of the invention. Ascorbic acid can be of any kind. Thus, it can be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of preferably concentrated orange juice. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form.
La composition peut également comprendre au moins un filtre UV qui peut être choisi parmi les filtres organiques hydrophiles, lipophiles ou insolubles et / ou les pigments minéraux. De manière préférentiel, il sera constitué d'au moins un filtre UV organique hydrophile, lipophile ou insoluble. The composition may also comprise at least one UV filter which may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic screening agents and / or inorganic pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, lipophilic or insoluble.
Les filtres UV organiques sont notamment choisis parmi les dérivés cinnamiques ; les anthranilates ; les dérivés salicyliques, les dérivés de dibenzoylméthane, les dérivés du camphre ; les dérivés de la benzophénone ; les dérivés de β,β-diphénylacrylate ; les dérivés de triazine ; les dérivés de benzotriazole ; les dérivés de benzalmalonate notamment ceux cités dans le brevet US5624663 ; les dérivés de benzimidazole ; les imidazolines ; les dérivés bis-benzoazolyle tels que décrits dans les brevets EP669323 et US 2,463,264; les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque (PABA) ; les dérivés de méthylène bis-(hydroxyphényl benzotriazole) tels que décrits dans les demandes US5.237.071 , US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 et EP8931 19 ; les dérivés de benzoxazole tels que décrits dans les demandes de brevet EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 et DE10162844 ; les polymères filtres et silicones filtres tels que ceux décrits notamment dans la demande WO-93/04665 ; les dimères dérivés d'oc-alkylstyrène tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet DE19855649 ; les 4,4-diarylbutadiènes tels que décrits dans les demandes EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1 133980 et EP133981 ; les dérivés de mérocyanine tels que ceux décrits dans les demandes WO04/006878, WO05/058269 et WO06/032741 et leurs mélanges. Organic UV filters are especially chosen from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; the imidazolines; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); methylene bis- (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP8931 19; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1 133980 and EP133981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in WO04 / 006878, WO05 / 058269 and WO06 / 032741 and mixtures thereof.
Comme exemples d'agents photoprotecteurs organiques complémentaires, on peut citer ceux désignés ci-dessous sous leur nom INCI : As examples of complementary organic photoprotective agents, mention may be made of those designated below under their INCI name:
Dérivés cinnamiques : Cinnamic derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate vendu notamment sous le nom commercial PARSOL MCX par HOFFMANN LAROCHE, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by HOFFMANN LAROCHE,
Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate
Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate vendu sous le nom commercial NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 par HAARMANN ET REIMER,  Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER,
DEA Methoxycinnamate, DEA Methoxycinnamate,
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,  Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,
Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate  Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate
Dérivés de dibenzoylméthane :  Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane vendu notamment sous le nom commercial PARSOL 1789 par HOFFMANN LAROCHE,  Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LAROCHE,
Isopropyl Dibenzoylméthane.  Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
Dérivés de l'acide para-aminobenzoique :  Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid:
PABA,  PABA
Ethyl PABA,  Ethyl PABA,
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,
Ethylhexyl Diméthyl PABA vendu notamment sous le nom « ESCALOL 507 » par ISP, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name "ESCALOL 507" by ISP,
Glyceryl PABA, Glyceryl PABA,
PEG-25 PABA vendu sous le nom « UVINUL P25 » par BASF,  PEG-25 PABA sold under the name "UVINUL P25" by BASF,
Dérivés salicyliques : Salicylic derivatives:
Homosalate vendu sous le nom « Eusolex HMS » par Rona/EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate vendu sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN OS » par Haarmann et REIMER, Homosalate sold under the name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN OS" by Haarmann and REIMER,
Dipropyleneglycol Salicylate vendu sous le nom « DIPSAL » par SCHER,  Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name "DIPSAL" by SCHER,
TEA Salicylate, vendu sous le nom « NEO HELIOPAN TS » par Haarmann et REIMER, Dérivés de β,β-diphénylacrylate : TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN TS" by Haarmann and REIMER, Derivatives of β, β-diphenylacrylate:
Octocrylene vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N539 » par BASF, Etocrylene, vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « UVINUL N35 » par BASF,  Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539" by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N35" by BASF,
Dérivés de la benzophénone : Derivatives of benzophenone:
Benzophenone-1 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL 400 » par BASF,  Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF,
Benzophenone-2 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL D50 » par BASF Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name "UVINUL D50" by BASF
Benzophenone-3 ou Oxybenzone, vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL M40 » par BASF,  Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL M40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-4 vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL MS40 » par BASF,  Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF,
Benzophenone-5 Benzophenone-5
Benzophenone-6 vendu sous le nom commercial « Helisorb 1 1 » par Norquay Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name "Helisorb 1 1" by Norquay
Benzophenone-8 vendu sous le nom commercial « Spectra-Sorb UV-24 » par American Cyanamid  Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid
Benzophenone-9 vendu sous le nom commerciak UVINUL DS-49» par BASF,  Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 "by BASF,
Benzophenone-12 Benzophenone-12
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle vendu sous le nom commercial « UVINUL A+ » ou en mélange avec l'octylmethoxycinnamate sous le nom commercial « UVINUL A+B » par la société BASF. N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate sold under the trade name "Uvinul A +" or in a mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "Uvinul A + B" by the company BASF.
Dérivés du benzylidène camphre : Derivatives of benzylidene camphor:
3-Benzylidene camphor fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SD» par CHIMEX,  3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SD" by CHIMEX,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor vendu sous le nom « EUSOLEX 6300 » par MERCK ,4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX 6300" by MERCK,
Benzylidène Camphor Sulfonic Acid fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SL» par CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SO » par CHIMEX, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SL" by CHIMEX, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SO" by CHIMEX,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SX » par CHIMEX,  Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by CHIMEX,
Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidène Camphor fabriqué sous le nom « MEXORYL SW » par CHIMEX,  Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SW" by CHIMEX,
Dérivés du phenyl benzimidazole :  Derivatives of phenyl benzimidazole:
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid vendu notamment sous le nom commercial « EUSOLEX 232 » par MERCK, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate vendu sous le nom commercial « NEO HELIOPAN AP » par Haarmann et REIMER, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN AP" by Haarmann and REIMER,
Dérivés du phenyl benzotriazole : Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane vendu sous le nom « Silatrizole » par RHODIA CHIMIE , Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, vendu sous forme solide sous le nom commercial « MIXXIM BB/100 » par FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL ou sous forme micronisée en dispersion aqueuse sous le nom commercial « TINOSORB M » par CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,  Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, sold in solid form under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL or in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name "TINOSORB M By CIBA SPECIALTY CHEMICALS,
Dérivés de triazine : Triazine derivatives:
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine vendu sous le nom commercial «TINOSORB S » par CIBA GEIGY, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "Tinosorb S" by CIBA GEIGY,
- Ethylhexyl triazone vendu notamment sous le nom commercial «UVINUL T150 » par BASF,  - Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name "Uvinul T150" by BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone vendu sous le nom commercial « UVASORB HEB » par SIGMA 3V,  - Diethylhexylbutamido triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB HEB" by SIGMA 3V,
- la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine  2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine
- la 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine,  2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine,
- la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,  2,4bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine,
- la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)- s-triazine,  2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s-triazine,
- les filtres triazines symétriques décrits dans le brevet US6, 225,467, la demande WO2004/085412 (voir composés 6 et 9) ou le document « Symetrical Triazine Derivatives » IP.COM Journal , IP.COM INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 septembre 2004) notamment les 2,4,6-tris-(biphényl)-1 ,3,5-triazines (en particulier la 2,4,6- tris(biphenyl-4-yl-1 ,3,5-triazine et la 2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine qui est repris dans les demandes de brevet WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991 , WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985.  the symmetrical triazine filters described in US Pat. No. 6,24,467, WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC. WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20). September 2004) including 2,4,6-tris- (biphenyl) -1,3,5-triazines (in particular 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine which is incorporated in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985 .
Dérivés anthraniliques : Anthranilic derivatives:
Menthyl anthranilate vendu sous le nom commercial commercial « NEO HELIOPAN MA » par Haarmann et REIMER,  Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer,
Dérivés d'imidazolines : Imidazoline derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,  Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,
Dérivés du benzalmalonate : Derivatives of benzalmalonate:
Polyorganosiloxane à fonctions benzalmalonate comme le Polysilicone-15 vendu sous la dénomination commerciale « PARSOL SLX » par HOFFMANN LA ROCHE  Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL SLX" by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE
Dérivés de 4,4-diarylbutadiène : 4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives:
-1 ,1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène Dérivés de benzoxazole : -1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-Dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene Benzoxazole derivatives:
2,4-bis-[5-1 (diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-i  2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -i
1 ,3,5-triazine vendu sous le nom d'Uvasorb K2A par Sigma 3V 1, 3,5-triazine sold under the name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V
et leurs mélanges. and their mixtures.
Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi : The preferred organic screening agents are chosen from:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate,
Homosalate, homosalate,
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Octocrylene, Octocrylene,
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,  Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,
Benzophenone-3,  Benzophenone-3,
Benzophenone-4,  Benzophenone-4,
Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-5,
2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle,  2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of n-hexyl,
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,  4-Methylbenzylidene camphor,
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,  Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid,
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate,  Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate,
Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol,
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,  Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,
Ethylhexyl triazone,  Ethylhexyl triazone,
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,  Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,
la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine,
la 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisobutyle)-s- triazine, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine,
la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, la 2,4bis (4'-aminobenzalmalonate de dinéopentyle)-6-(4'-aminobenzoate de n-butyle)-s- triazine, 2,4bis (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -6- (aminopropyltrisiloxane) -s-triazine, 2,4bis (dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate) -s- triazine,
la 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl-1 ,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (biphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine,
la 2,4, 6-tris(terphenyl)-1 ,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris (terphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine,
Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Drometrizole Trisiloxane,
Polysilicone-15, Polysilicon-15
1 ,1 -dicarboxy (2,2'-diméthyl-propyl)-4,4-diphénylbutadiène,  1,1-Dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
2,4-bis-[5-1 (diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino- 1 ,3,5-triazine,  2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine,
et leurs mélanges. Les filtres UV inorganiques pouvant être utilisés dans le cadre de la présente invention sont des pigments d'oxyde métallique. Plus préférentiellement, les filtres UV inorganiques de l'invention sont des particules d'oxyde métallique ayant une taille moyenne de particule élémentaire inférieure ou égale à 500 nm, plus préférentiellement comprise entre 5 nm et 500 nm, et encore plus préférentiellement comprise entre 10 nm et 100 nm, et préférentiellement entre 15 et 50 nm. and their mixtures. The inorganic UV filters that can be used in the context of the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average element particle size of less than or equal to 500 nm, more preferably between 5 nm and 500 nm, and even more preferentially between 10 nm. and 100 nm, and preferably between 15 and 50 nm.
Ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi les oxydes de titane, de zinc, de fer, de zirconium, de cérium ou leurs mélanges.  They may be chosen in particular from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures.
De tels pigments d'oxydes métalliques, enrobés ou non enrobés sont en particulier décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A- 0 518 773. A titre de pigments commerciaux on peut mentionner les produits vendus les sociétés Kemira, Tayca, Merck et Degussa. Les pigments d'oxydes métalliques peuvent être enrobés ou non enrobés.  Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments can be mentioned the products sold Kemira, Tayca, Merck and Degussa. The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
Les pigments enrobés sont des pigments qui ont subi un ou plusieurs traitements de surface de nature chimique, électronique, mécanochimique et/ou mécanique avec des composés tels que des aminoacides, de la cire d'abeille, des acides gras, des alcools gras, des tensio-actifs anioniques, des lécithines, des sels de sodium, potassium, zinc, fer ou aluminium d'acides gras, des alcoxydes métalliques (de titane ou d'aluminium), du polyéthylène, des silicones, des protéines (collagène, élastine), des alcanolamines, des oxydes de silicium, des oxydes métalliques ou de l'hexamétaphosphate de sodium. The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
Les pigments enrobés sont plus particulièrement des oxydes de titane enrobés : The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- de silice tels que le produit "SUNVEIL" de la société IKEDA,  silica such as the product "SUNVEIL" from the company IKEDA,
- de silice et d'oxyde de fer tels que le produit "SUNVEIL F" de la société IKEDA, silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F" from the company IKEDA,
- de silice et d'alumine tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" ef'MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" de la société TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" de la société TIOXIDE, silica and alumina, such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SA" and "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SA" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL" from the company TIOXIDE,
- d'alumine tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" et "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" de la société ISHIHARA, et "UVT 14/4" de la société KEMIRA,  alumina such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (B)" and "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (A)" from the company ISHIHARA, and "UVT 14/4" from the company KEMIRA,
- d'alumine et de stéarate d'aluminium tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01 " de la société TAYCA, les produits "Solaveil CT-10 W" et "Solaveil CT 100" de la société UNIQEMA et le produit " Eusolex T-AVO" de la société MERCK,  aluminum alumina and stearate such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 T, MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z, MT-01" from TAYCA, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W" and "Solaveil" CT 100 "from UNIQEMA and the product" Eusolex T-AVO "from MERCK,
- de silice, d'alumine et d'acide alginique tel que le produit " MT-100 AQ" de la société TAYCA,  silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100 AQ" from the company Tayca,
- d'alumine et de laurate d'aluminium tel que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" de la société TAYCA,  alumina and aluminum laurate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 S" from TAYCA,
- d'oxyde de fer et de stéarate de fer tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" de la société TAYCA, - d'oxyde de zinc et de stéarate de zinc tels que le produit "BR 351 " de la société TAYCA, iron oxide and iron stearate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 F" from the company TAYCA, zinc oxide and zinc stearate such as the product "BR 351" from the company Tayca,
- de silice et d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS"de la société TAYCA,  silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 600 SAS", "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 SAS" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 100 SAS" from the company TAYCA,
- de silice, d'alumine, de stéarate d'aluminium et traités par une silicone tels que le produit "STT-30-DS" de la société TITAN KOGYO,  silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone such as the product "STT-30-DS" from TITAN KOGYO,
- de silice et traité par une silicone tel que le produit "UV-TITAN X 195" de la société KEMIRA,  silica and treated with a silicone such as the product "UV-TITAN X 195" from KEMIRA,
- d'alumine et traités par une silicone tels que les produits "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" de la société ISHIHARA, ou "UV TITAN M 262" de la société KEMIRA, of alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (S)" from ISHIHARA, or "UV TITAN M 262" from KEMIRA,
- de triéthanolamine tels que le produit "STT-65-S" de la société TITAN KOGYO, triethanolamine such as the product "STT-65-S" from TITAN KOGYO,
- d'acide stéarique tels que le produit "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" de la société ISHIHARA, d'hexamétaphosphate de sodium tels que le produit "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" de la société TAYCA. stearic acid, such as the product "TIPAQUE TTO-55 (C)" from the company ISHIHARA, sodium hexametaphosphate such as the product "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 150 W" from the company TAYCA.
- le Ti02 traité par l'octyl triméthyl silane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "T 805" par la société DEGUSSA SILICES, TiO 2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane sold under the trade name "T 805" by the company Degussa Silices,
- le Ti02 traité par un polydiméthylsiloxane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "70250 Cardre UF TÎ02SI3" par la société CARDRE, TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF Ti02SI3" by CARDRE,
- le Ti02 anatase/rutile traité par un polydiméthylhydrogénosiloxane vendu sous la dénomination commerciale "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXYDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" par la société COLOR TECHNIQUES. the TiO 2 anatase / rutile treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane sold under the trade name "MICRO TITANIUM DIOXIDE USP GRADE HYDROPHOBIC" by the company COLOR TECHNIQUES.
Les pigments d'oxyde de titane non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société TAYCA sous les dénominations commerciales "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" ou "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", par la société DEGUSSA sous la dénomination "P 25", par la société WACKHER sous la dénomination "Oxyde de titane transparent PW", par la société MIYOSHI KASEI sous la dénomination "UFTR", par la société TOMEN sous la dénomination "ITS" et par la société TIOXIDE sous la dénomination "TIOVEIL AQ".  Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT 500 B" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT600 B", by the company DEGUSSA under the name "P 25", by the WACKHER company under the name "transparent titanium oxide PW", by MIYOSHI KASEI under the name "UFTR", by TOMEN under the name "ITS" and by the company TIOXIDE under the name "TIOVEIL AQ".
Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc non enrobés, sont par exemple : The uncoated zinc oxide pigments, for example:
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Z-cote" par la société Sunsmart ;  those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox" par la société Elementis ;  those marketed under the name "Nanox" by Elementis;
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard WCD 2025" par la société Nanophase Technologies ;  those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies;
Les pigments d'oxyde de zinc enrobés sont par exemple : The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Oxide zinc CS-5" par la société Toshibi (ZnO enrobé par polymethylhydrogenesiloxane) ; - ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" par la société Nanophase Technologies (en dispersion à 40% dans le Finsolv TN, benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15) ; those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenosiloxane); those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" et "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" par la société Daito (dispersions dans cyclopolyméthylsiloxane those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION ZN-30" and "DAITOPERSION Zn-50" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane
/polydiméthylsiloxane oxyéthyléné, contenant 30% ou 50% d'oxydes de zinc enrobés par la silice et le polyméthylhydrogènesiloxane) ; oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogensiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" par la société Daikin (ZnO enrobé par phosphate de perfluoroalkyle et copolymère à base de perfluoroalkyléthyle en dispersion dans du cyclopentasiloxane) ;  those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "SPD-Z1 " par la société Shin-Etsu (ZnO enrobé par polymère acrylique greffé silicone, dispersé dans cyclodiméthylsiloxane) ; ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Escalol Z100" par la société ISP (ZnO traité alumine et dispersé dans le mélange methoxycinnamate d'ethylhexyle / copolymère PVP- hexadecene / methicone) ;  those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100" by the company ISP (ZnO treated alumina and dispersed in the mixture methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl / copolymer PVP-hexadecene / methicone);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" par la société Fuji Pigment (ZnO enrobé silice et polymethylsilsesquioxane) ;  those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane);
- ceux commercialisés sous la dénomination "Nanox Gel TN" par la société Elementis (ZnO dispersé à 55% dans du benzoate d'alcools en C12-C15 avec polycondensat d'acide hydroxystéarique).  those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohols benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).
Les pigments d'oxyde de cérium non enrobés peuvent être par exemple ceux vendus sous la dénomination "COLLOÏDAL CERIUM OXIDE" par la société RHONE POULENC. Les pigments d'oxyde de fer non enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ, "NANOGARD WCD 2006 (FE 45R)", ou par la société MITSUBISHI sous la dénomination "TY-220".  Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "COLLOIDAL CERIUM OXIDE" by the company RHONE POULENC. Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2002 (FE 45B)", "NANOGARD IRON FE 45 BL AQ", "NANOGARD FE 45R AQ," NANOGARD WCD 2006 ( FE 45R) ", or by the company MITSUBISHI under the name" TY-220 ".
Les pigments d'oxyde de fer enrobés sont par exemple vendus par la société ARNAUD sous les dénominations "NANOGARD WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)", "NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556)", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345", "NANOGARD FE 45 BL", ou par la société BASF sous la dénomination "OXYDE DE FER TRANSPARENT".  The coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by ARNAUD under the names "NANOGARD WCD 2008" (FE 45B FN) "," NANOGARD WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL 345 "," NANOGARD FE 45 BL ", or by the company BASF under the name" OXIDE OF CLEAR IRON ".
On peut également citer les mélanges d'oxydes métalliques, notamment de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium, dont le mélange équipondéral de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de cérium enrobés de silice, vendu par la société IKEDA sous la dénomination "SUNVEIL A", ainsi que le mélange de dioxyde de titane et de dioxyde de zinc enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de silicone tel que le produit "M 261 " vendu par la société KEMIRA ou enrobé d'alumine, de silice et de glycérine tel que le produit "M 21 1 " vendu par la société KEMIRA. Selon l'invention, les pigments d'oxyde de titane, enrobés ou non enrobés, sont particulièrement préférés. Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the titanium dioxide / silica-coated cerium-aluminum alloy mixture sold by the company IKEDA under the name "SUNVEIL A". ", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product" M 261 "sold by the company KEMIRA or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as that the product "M 21 1" sold by KEMIRA. According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.
Comme charges qui peuvent être utilisées dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple, les pigments tels que les oxydes de titane, de zinc ou de fer et les pigments organiques ; le kaolin ; la silice ; le talc ; le nitrure de bore ; les poudres sphériques organiques, les fibres ; et leurs mélanges. Comme poudres sphériques organiques, on peut citer par exemple les poudres de polyamide et notamment les poudres de Nylon® telles que Nylon-1 ou Polyamide 12, commercialisées sous les dénominations ORGASOL par la société Atochem ; les poudres de polyéthylène ; le Téflon® ; les microsphères à base de copolymères acryliques, telles que celles en copolymère diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol/ methacrylate de lauryle commercialisées par la société Dow Corning sous la dénomination de POLYTRAP ; les poudres expansées telles que les microsphères creuses et notamment, les microsphères commercialisées sous la dénomination EXPANCEL par la société Kemanord Plast ou sous la dénomination MICROPEARL F 80 ED par la société Matsumoto ; les microbilles de résine de silicone telles que celles commercialisées sous la dénomination TOSPEARL par la société Toshiba Silicone ; les microsphères de polyméthacrylate de méthyle, commercialisées sous la dénomination MICROSPHERE M-100 par la société Matsumoto ou sous la dénomination COVABEAD LH85 par la société Wackherr ; les poudres de copolymère éthylène-acrylate, comme celles commercialisées sous la dénomination FLOBEADS par la société Sumitomo Seika Chemicals ; les poudres de matériaux organiques naturels tels que les poudres d'amidon, notamment d'amidons de maïs, de blé ou de riz, réticulés ou non, telles que les poudres d'amidon réticulé par l'anhydride octénylsuccinate, commercialisées sous la dénomination DRY-FLO par la société National Starch. Comme fibres, on peut citer par exemple les fibres de polyamide, telles que notamment les fibres de Nylon 6 (ou Polyamide 6) (nom INCI : Nylon 6), de Nylon 6,6 (ou Polyamide 66) (Nom INCI : Nylon 66) ou telles que les fibres de poly-p-phénylène téréphtamide ; et leurs mélanges. Ces charges peuvent être présentes dans des quantités allant de 0 à 20 % en poids et de préférence de 0,5 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talcum; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibers; and their mixtures. As organic spherical powders, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders such as nylon-1 or polyamide-12 sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch. As fibers, mention may be made, for example, of polyamide fibers, such as, in particular, nylon 6 (or polyamide 6) (INCI name: nylon 6), nylon 6,6 (or polyamide 66) fibers (INCI name: nylon 66 ) or such as poly-p-phenylene terephtamide fibers; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Bien entendu, l'homme de l'art veillera à choisir le ou les éventuels adjuvants ajoutés à la composition selon l'invention de manière telle que les propriétés avantageuses attachées intrinsèquement à la composition conforme à l'invention ne soient pas, ou substantiellement pas, altérées par l'addition envisagée. Les exemples qui suivent permettront de mieux comprendre l'invention, sans toutefois présenter un caractère limitatif. Les quantités indiquées sont en % en poids de matière active, sauf mention contraire. Les noms des composés sont indiqués en noms INCI. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition. The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The quantities indicated are in% by weight of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated. The names of the compounds are indicated in INCI names.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Exemples 1 à 15 Examples 1 to 15
Les compositions ci-dessous ont été préparées.  The compositions below were prepared.
Figure imgf000024_0001
Figure imgf000024_0001
Composition 10* 11 12 13* 14 15Composition 10 * 11 12 13 * 14 15
AQUA 78,3 78,3 78,3 68,3 68,3 68,3AQUA 78.3 78.3 78.3 68.3 68.3 68.3
MANNOSE 20 20 20 30 30 30MANNOSE 20 20 30 30 30
SODIUM ACRYLATES 0,7 0,7 SODIUM ACRYLATES 0.7 0.7
CROSSPOLYMER-2  CROSSPOLYMER-2
commercialisé sous la  marketed under the
dénomination AQUAKEEP® 10  AQUAKEEP® 10 name
SH NF par la société  SH NF by society
SUMITOMO SEIKA AMMONIUM 0,7 0,7 POLYACRYLDIMETHYL TAURAMIDE commercialisé SUMITOMO SEIKA AMMONIUM 0.7 0.7 POLYACRYLDIMETHYL TAURAMIDE marketed
sous la dénomination under the name
HOSTACERIN AMPS® par la HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the
société CLARIANT CLARIANT company
SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0,7 0,7 commercialisé sous la  SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0,7 0,7 marketed under the
dénomination COSMEDIA® SP COSMEDIA® SP name
par la société COGNIS by the company COGNIS
Conservateur qs qs qs qs qs qs  Preservative qs qs qs qs qs qs
*composition selon l'invention * Composition of the invention
La sensation aqueuse apportée par chacune des compositions présentées est évaluée tactilement et visuellement, par un panel de 10 experts, selon le protocole suivant. Le panel d'experts entraînés à la description des produits de soin évalue les formules en monadique. Les produits sont conditionnés en pots transparents standard de 15 mL et codés. Au sein d'une même séance, les échantillons sont présentés en ordre randomisé pour chaque panéliste. 0,05 ml de produit sont appliqués sur la moitié du dessus de la main (préalablement nettoyée à l'eau et au savon liquide et essuyée à l'aide d'un mouchoir en papier), puis étalés (10 tours avec l'index et le majeur). The aqueous sensation provided by each of the compositions presented is evaluated visually and visually, by a panel of 10 experts, according to the following protocol. The panel of experts trained in the description of skincare products evaluates the formulas in monadic. The products are packaged in standard 15 mL clear pots and coded. In a single session, samples are presented in randomized order for each panelist. 0,05 ml of product are applied on half of the top of the hand (previously cleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped with a tissue), then spread out (10 turns with the index finger and the middle finger).
La sensation aqueuse est définie comme étant la sensation de gouttelettes, gouttes, flaques liquides d'eau à la surface de la peau (indépendamment de la couleur et de la texture) lors de l'application et est notée sur une échelle non linéaire, à 5 niveaux : Pas, peu, moyennement (noté moy.), assez et très. Aqueous sensation is defined as the sensation of droplets, drops, liquid puddles of water on the surface of the skin (regardless of color and texture) during application and is scored on a non-linear scale at 5 levels: Not, little, moderately (noted avg), enough and very.
Les résultats obtenus sont réunis dans le tableau ci-dessous. The results obtained are shown in the table below.
Composition 1* 2 3 4* 5 6 7* 8 9Composition 1 * 2 3 4 * 5 6 7 * 8 9
Sensation MOY. PEU PEU MOY. PEU PEU MOY. PEU PEU aqueuse MOY feeling. LITTLE AVERAGE LITTLE AVERAGE LITTLE LITTLE
Composition 10* 1 1 12 13* 14 15Composition 10 * 1 1 12 13 * 14 15
Sensation MOY. PAS PAS MOY. PAS PAS aqueuse Dans cette série d'exemples de gels aqueux contenant du mannose, on montre que les compositions, selon l'invention, épaissies par un polymère superabsorbant à 0,7 % (1 , 4, 7, 10, 13) offrent, à l'application, une sensation plus aqueuse que des compositions équivalentes épaissies par un ammonium polyacryldimethyl tauramide (AMPS) ou un polyacrylate de sodium, usuels, au même taux de 0,7 %. MOY feeling. NOT MOY. NOT WATER In this series of examples of aqueous gels containing mannose, it is shown that the compositions according to the invention, thickened with a 0.7% superabsorbent polymer (1, 4, 7, 10, 13), provide the application, a sensation more aqueous than equivalent compositions thickened with a usual ammonium polyacryldimethyl tauramide (AMPS) or polyacrylate, at the same rate of 0.7%.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . Composition aqueuse pour application topique comprenant au moins un polymère superabsorbant se présentant, à l'état sec, sous forme de particules ayant une taille moyenne en masse inférieure ou égale à 50 μηη et choisi parmi les polyacrylates de sodium réticulés et au moins 3 % en poids du poids total de la composition d'au moins un glucide choisi parmi les oses. 1. Aqueous composition for topical application comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer having, in the dry state, in the form of particles having a mean mass size of less than or equal to 50 μηη and chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates and at least 3% by weight weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one carbohydrate chosen from oses.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1 dans laquelle le ou les polymères superabsorbants se présentent, une fois hydratés, sous forme de particules ayant une taille moyenne en masse allant de 10 μηη à 1000 μηη. 2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the one or more superabsorbent polymers are, once hydrated, in the form of particles having a mean mass size ranging from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη.
3. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 2 dans laquelle le ou les polymères superabsorbants présentent une capacité d'absorption d'eau de 10 à 100 g/g, de préférence de 20 à 80 g/g et mieux de 40 à 80 g/g. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the superabsorbent polymer or polymers have a water absorption capacity of 10 to 100 g / g, preferably 20 to 80 g / g and preferably 40 to 40 g / g. at 80 g / g.
4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 dans laquelle le ou les polymères superabsorbants se présentent sous forme de particules sphériques. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the one or more superabsorbent polymers are in the form of spherical particles.
5. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 dans laquelle le ou les polymères superabsorbants sont présents en une teneur en matière active allant de 0,05 à 15 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 10 % en poids, de préférence allant de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, préférentiellement allant de 0,1 à 3%, voire de 0,1 à 2 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the one or more superabsorbent polymers are present in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. , preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3%, or even from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5 dans laquelle le ou les oses sont choisis parmi les trioses possédant 3 carbones : dihydroxyacétone, glycéraldéhyde ; les tétroses possédant 4 carbones : érythrose, thréose, érythrulose ; les pentoses possédant 5 carbones : ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, désoxyribose ; les hexoses possédant 6 carbones : allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose ; les heptoses possédant 7 carbones : sédoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, taloheptulose ; les octoses possédant 8 carbones ; les oses possédant plus de 8 carbones comme par exemple le maltitol ; sous leur forme D ou L. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the monosaccharide or monosaccharides are chosen from trioses having 3 carbons: dihydroxyacetone, glyceraldehyde; 4-carbon tetroses: erythrosis, threose, erythrulose; pentoses having 5 carbons: ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, deoxyribose; hexoses having 6 carbons: allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, fucose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fuculose, psicose, fructose, sorbose, tagatose, quinovose, pneumose, rhamnose; 7-carbon heptoses: sedoheptulose, glucoheptose, idoheptulose, mannoheptulose, taloheptulose; octoses having 8 carbons; monosaccharides having more than 8 carbons, for example maltitol; in their D or L form.
7. Composition selon la revendication 6 dans laquelle le ou les oses sont choisis parmi les hexoses et plus particulièrement le glucose, le mannose ou le rhamnose. 7. Composition according to claim 6 wherein the monosaccharide or monosaccharides are chosen from hexoses and more particularly glucose, mannose or rhamnose.
8. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 dans laquelle le ou les glucides de la famille des oses sont présents en quantité allant de 3 à 30 % en poids du poids total de la composition, de préférence de 3 à 20 % en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 3 à 10 % en poids. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the carbohydrate (s) of the ose family are present in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 to 20%. by weight, and even more preferably from 3 to 10% by weight.
9. Procédé de traitement cosmétique d'une matière kératinique dans lequel on applique sur la matière kératinique une composition cosmétique telle que définie à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8. 9. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratinous material.
10. Utilisation d'une composition cosmétique telle que définie à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique, et en particulier pour le soin, la protection et / ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage, ou pour le soin des cheveux, de préférence pour le soin, la protection et / ou le maquillage de la peau du corps ou du visage. 10. Use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face , or for the care of the hair, preferably for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.
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