FR3141343A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone, an additional amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone, an additional amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

Keratin fibers, particularly hair, tend to lose some of their qualities under the action of various factors such as natural re-greasing, sweat, elimination of dander, pollution or humidity. The visual appearance as well as the feel of the fibers may be degraded. For example, regreasing makes the fibers heavier, which then tend to bunch up. The hair may then be more difficult to style, have an oily shine and/or an unpleasant waxy feel.

For washing keratin fibers, such as hair, the use of shampoo-type detergent cosmetic compositions, based essentially on surfactants, is common. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibers, preferably wet, and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands or a washcloth allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair.

Repeated use of such compositions can damage keratin fibers. In particular, hair may lose its suppleness and feel less smooth, it is also more difficult to detangle.

However, consumers are looking for shampoo compositions that have good detergent power while having improved cosmetic and conditioning properties. They are also looking for shampoo compositions with an improved environmental profile while maintaining very good cosmetic and conditioning properties.

It has now been discovered that a composition comprising a particular combination of amino silicones in the presence of anionic and amphoteric surfactants makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, in particular in terms of ease of disentangling, flexibility, and smoothness to the touch. , coating, softness, shine, individualization and lightness.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising:
i) one or more anionic surfactants,
ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
iii) one or more alpha-omega bis-amino silicones, and
iv) one or more amino silicones different from silicones iii),
the total silicone content being less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The particular combination of the above compounds makes it possible to obtain a composition having good detergent power while providing good cosmetic and conditioning properties to the hair with a reduced silicone(s) content.

Indeed, the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to facilitate detangling of the hair, while providing a smooth and homogeneous touch, from root to tip, as well as a feeling of coating and treated hair.

In addition, the composition has good usage properties, in particular good rinsability.

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing keratin fibers.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

In all that follows, the term silicone is designated, in accordance with general acceptance, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with a linear or cyclic, branched or reticulated structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or by polycondensation of silanes suitably functionalized, and essentially constituted by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, in particular C ₁ -C ₁₀ , and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl groups whose alkyl part is C ₁ -C ₁₀ , aryl groups such as in particular phenyl groups.

In a manner known per se, the viscosity of silicones, which is the kinematic viscosity, is measured at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm, 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

The weight average molecular masses of silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 µl of a 0.5% solution by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.

i) Anionic surfactants
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants i).

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not including a cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. We can obviously use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:
- the anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and do not include a sulfate function and/or a sulfonate function;
- the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions but do not include a sulfate function; And
- the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function and may optionally comprise one or more carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

The anionic carboxylate surfactants that can be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C ₆ -C ₃₀ aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures;
the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C ₆ -C alkyl polyglycoside tartrates. ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- acylglutamates, in particular C ₆ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, particularly C ₆ -C ₃₀ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate and sodium lauroylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₈ , or even C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylglycinates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ) ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of surfactants of the fatty acid type, in particular C ₆ -C ₃₀ . These surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (a) below: RC(O)-OX (a)
with
-
- R designating a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably of 11 to 21 carbon atoms.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of sarcosinate type surfactants, in particular chosen from alkyl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sarcosinates of formula (I) below:
RC(O)-N(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -C(O)-OX (I)
with
-
- R designating a linear or branched alkyl group, from 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Among the alkyl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sarcosinates of formula (I) which can be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.

The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and their mixtures, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and their mixtures.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):
R1-(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA (II)
in which :
- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C ₈ -C ₉ )phenyl radical, an R ₂ CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ radical - with R2 designating a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched into C ₉ -C ₂₁ ;
preferably R1 is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical, preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (II), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R1 groups.

The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (II) in which:
- R1 designates a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (II) are used in which R1 denotes a C ₁₂ alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfoacetates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;

- N-acyltaurates in C ₆ -C ₂₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ -C _20,
- (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acylisethionates, preferably (C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, as well as their salts and their mixtures.

The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- alkyl sulfates, particularly C ₆ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ,
- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C ₆ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As an example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl sulfates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl ether sulfates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfoacetates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- N-acyltaurates in C ₆ -C ₂₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acylisethionates, preferably (C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) acylisethionates;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylsarcosinates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates;
- alkyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ) ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylglutamates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylglycinates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline earth metal or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts;
- and their mixtures.

The anionic surfactant(s) i) are preferably chosen from anionic sulfonate surfactants, anionic sulfate surfactants, anionic carboxylate surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfoacetates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulphates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , acyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) sarcosinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ; ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures.

The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) preferably ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better still from 3 to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulphonate anionic surfactants, sulphate anionic surfactants and their mixtures ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight. weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better still from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from carboxylate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants ii).

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention, may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain or branched comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₁ -C ₆ )betaines, alkyl(C 8 -C 20) ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₁ -C ₆ )sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also cite the following compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV):

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (III)
formula (III), in which:
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably R _a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; And
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (IV)
formula (IV), in which:
- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a ' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a '-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably R _a ' a group alkyl, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL ^® C2M concentrate.

We can also use compounds of formula (V):
R _a ''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (V)
formula (V), in which:
- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a '' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ''-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; And
- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants cited above, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines, such as as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphoacetates, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphodiacetates and their mixtures; and preferably alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) are chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and their mixtures, preferably from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and their mixtures.

The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) preferably ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 12% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C₈-VS₂₀)betaines, alkyl(C₈-VS₂₀)amidoalkyl(C₃-VS₈)betaines and their mixtures ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

iii) Alpha-omega bis-amino silicones
The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alpha-omega bis-amino silicones iii), that is to say comprising terminal amino groups; By this we mean that the groups located at the end of the chain (the terminal groups in alpha and omega positions) include an amino group.

The amine group can be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine as well as a quaternary ammonium.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to the following formula (I):

in which :
- the R radicals, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
- the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkyl group;
- x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and
- n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aminated silicone is between 5,000 and 200,000.

Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH ₃ (methyl).

Preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, preferably saturated linear, C ₁ -C4, better still C ₂ -C ₄ , in particular ethyl; or a C ₂ -C ₄ aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure –(C _a H _2a )-NH ₂ with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NH ₂ ).

Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better x=3.

Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better y=3.

Preferably, x=y.

Preferably, n is such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10,000 and 150,000, or even between 15,000 and 100,000.

More preferably, the aminated silicone corresponds to formula (I) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

The total content of the alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) iii) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the total content of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

iv) Amino silicones different from silicones iii)
The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more amino silicones iv) different from the silicones iii).

By amine silicone we designate any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight average molecular masses of these aminated silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 µl of a 0.5% solution by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.

Suitable amino silicones iv) suitable for use in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched amino silicones having a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

Preferably the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from:
a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (IV):
(IV)
in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (V), different from silicones iii):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' R'_a' (V)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a and a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero
- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups:
• -NR''-QN(R'') ₂ ,
• -N(R'') ₂ ,
• -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;

The amino silicones corresponding to formula (V), different from silicones iii), can advantageously be chosen from, alone or in mixture:

(A) silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (VI):
(VI)
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

(B) amino silicones of formula (VII) following:
(VII)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000, more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

(C) amino silicones of formula (VIII) following:
(VIII)
in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.
Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 and in particular from 10000 to 50000.

Commercial products comprising structural silicones (VII) or (VIII) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (VII) or (VIII).

A product containing structural amino silicones (VII) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
A product containing structural amino silicones (VIII) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural amino silicones (VIII) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any nature but preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (VIII), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (VIII) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

(D) amino silicones of the following formula (IX):
(IX)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).

(E) amino silicones of the following formula (X):
(X)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 and more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI):
(XII)
in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;
Such amino silicones are described in particular in US patent 4,185,087.

d) amino silicones of formula (XIII):
(XIII)
in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

e) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]
or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R designate a radical CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ -; And
- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
We can in particular cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

f) amino silicones of formulas (XIV) and (XV):
(XIV)
in which :
- R, R' and R''', identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
(XIV)
in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.
We can cite in particular the following divalent groups:
-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; and preferably, R1 and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XV) with:
- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- going from 1 to 100;
- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the groups dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XV) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. We can cite in particular the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups on a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XVIII):
(XVI)
Or
(XVII)

Or
(XVIII)
In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), we can cite the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin Etsu company.

In formula (XVII), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3000.
As an example of amino silicones of formula (XVII), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVIII), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000.
As an example of amino silicones of formula (XVIII), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 fluid by the company Dow Corning.

h) and their mixtures.

Particularly preferably, the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V), even more preferably from those corresponding to one of the formulas (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX). ) and/or (X), and even more preferably, the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from amodimethicones.

The total content of the aminated silicone(s) iv) different from the silicones iii) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0 .8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the total content of amodimethicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0, 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the total content of silicones (including silicones (iii) and (iv) as well as any silicones, in particular non-amino silicones, optionally present in the composition) is less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total silicone content is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of aminated silicones iii) and iv) is less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of aminated silicones iii) and iv) is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alpha-omega bis-amino silicones iii) and the total content of amino silicones iv) ranges from 0.2 to 5, preferably from 0.3 to 3, more preferably from 0, 4 to 2. In a particular embodiment, it is strictly less than 1, it goes in particular from 0.1 to 0.99, better still from 0.15 to 0.8, or even from 0.2 to 0.6.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone and the total content of aminated silicones iv) chosen from amodimethicones preferably ranges from 0.2 to 5, preferably from 0.3 to 3, more preferably from 0 .4 to 2. In a particular embodiment, it is strictly less than 1, it goes in particular from 0.1 to 0.99, better from 0.15 to 0.8, or even from 0.2 to 0.6 .

v) Additional silicones different from alpha-omega bis-aminated silicones iii) and aminated silicones iv)
The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional silicones v) different from alpha-omega bis-amino silicones iii) and amine silicones iv).

The additional silicone(s) v) therefore do not include a primary, secondary, tertiary amine group, nor a quaternary ammonium group.

The additional silicones which can be used in the invention can be solid or liquid, volatile or non-volatile, preferably they are liquid and non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “volatile silicone” means a silicone capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or hair in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Such a silicone presents in particular having a saturated vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg ), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-volatile silicone” means a silicone having a saturated vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg).

The silicones which may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred.

Silicones are described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:
i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure:

We can cite the “VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109” marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

- mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2, 2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2/s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or in mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated, or polyoxypropylenated groups.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:
- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively alkyl(C ₁₂ )-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;
- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;
- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl function;
- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.
- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or else of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”.
- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP342834; we can cite, for example, the product Q2-8413 from the company DOW CORNING.

The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- 200 series oils from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- silicones from the PK series from BAYER such as the PK20 product;
- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from the SF series from GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Preferably, the additional silicone(s) v) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, more preferably from linear polydimethylsiloxanes (i.e. non-cyclic), even better linear polydimethylsiloxanes liquid at 25°C.

More preferably, the additional silicone(s) v) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, preferably linear, having a viscosity at 25°C less than or equal to 1 m ² /s (1.10 ⁶ cSt), in particular between 2.10 ^-4 m ² /s (200 cSt) and 0.5 m ² /s (500,000 cSt).

When present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the additional silicone(s) v), different from the alpha-omega bis-amino silicones iii) and the amino silicones iv), preferably ranges from 0.01 at 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polydimethylsiloxanes, in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, the water content being able to range from 50 to 99% by weight, preferably from 70 to 98% by weight, preferably from 80 to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic or non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, waxes, cationic, anionic polymers, non-ionic, amphoteric or mixtures thereof, non-silicone fatty substances, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular polymeric thickening agents, opacifying or pearlizing agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservative agents, and fillers.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .
The above additives can generally be present in a quantity comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process and use

The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least the application of the composition as defined above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples
In the examples which follow, all quantities are indicated as a mass percentage of active ingredient (MA) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

Example 1
Compositions A1 (according to the invention) and B1 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% MA):

Composition A1 (invention) Composition B1 (comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 9.73 9.73 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.56 0.56 Bis-Aminopropyl dimethicone 0.3 0.85 Amodimethicone 0.3 0.85 Sodium chloride 0.1 0.1 Citric acid Qs pH 5.5 Qs pH 5.5 Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Total silicone content 0.6% 1.7%

• Ease of disentangling performance by instrumental evaluation
The ease of detangling the hair after application of compositions A1 and B1 is evaluated by an instrumental cosmetic evaluation by measuring the friction forces of a lock of hair previously tangled, during its movement, at constant speed, through a metal comb.
The lower the force required to pass the strand through the teeth of the comb, the easier the detangling.

Compositions A1 and B1 are applied according to the following protocol:
on strands having undergone a bleaching treatment, each of compositions A1 or B1 is applied at a rate of 0.4g of composition per g of strands; we knead and foam; leave for 1 minute then rinse the wick with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300l/h, temperature = 35°C).
The friction forces of compositions A1 and B1 on wet hair are measured. These measurements are expressed in mJ. The measurement is repeated on 5 different strands.

The results are presented in the table below (averages):

Composition A1 (invention) Composition B1 (comparative) Friction forces on wet hair (in mJ) 1382.7 ± 113.6 1815.7 ± 217.7

Composition A1 according to the invention comprising a combination of an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6% makes it possible to obtain a significantly better level of detangling than composition B1 with a total concentration of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

• Sensory cosmetic performance
Two experts evaluate the sensory performance on damp and dried hair of compositions A1 and B1 on strands sensitized by a bleaching treatment.

Compositions A1 and B1 are applied according to the following protocol: on locks which have undergone a bleaching treatment, each of compositions A1 or B1 is applied, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per g of locks; we knead and foam; leave for 1 minute then rinse the wick with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300l/h, temperature = 35°C). We then dry the lock with a hairdryer.

The experts evaluate the sensory cosmetic performances of compositions A1 and B1 on damp hair, on the criteria of ease of detangling, smoothing to the touch and coating, and on dried hair, on the criteria of smoothing to the touch and coating.

These ratings are rated on a scale of 0 to 5, with 0 representing the lowest rating and 5 representing the best rating.

Assessment of ease of detangling: detangling is assessed using a comb that the expert slides from root to tip. The easier the comb slides, the easier the detangling, therefore better.

Assessment of smoothness to the touch: the expert takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform the hair is, homogeneous from root to tip, the less roughness it has, the less it catches the fingers, the smoother it is to the touch.

Evaluation of the coating: the expert takes the lock of hair in his hand, starts from the root, and slides to the ends. The more deposit you feel on the fiber, the better the coating.

The results are presented in the table below:

Sensory performance
(average of the scores of the 2 experts)
Composition A1 (invention) Composition B1 (comparative) On damp hair Detangling 3 1 Smooth touch 2 1 Coating 2 1 On dried hair Smooth touch 4 3 Coating 3 2

The A1 composition according to the invention comprising a combination of an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6% makes it possible to obtain better sensory cosmetic performance, both on hair wet and on dry hair, as composition B1 with a total concentration of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

Example 2
Compositions A2 (according to the invention) and B2 (comparative) were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the tables below (% MA):

Composition A2 (invention) Composition B2 (comparative) Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 0.97 0.97 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 2.5 2.5 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.56 0.56 Bis-Aminopropyl dimethicone 0.3 0.85 Amodimethicone 0.3 0.85 Sodium chloride 0.1 0.1 Conservative qs qs Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Total silicone content 0.6% 1.7%

• Sensory cosmetic performance
Two experts evaluate the sensory performance on damp hair of compositions A2 and B2 on strands sensitized by a bleaching treatment.

Compositions A2 and B2 are applied according to the following protocol: on strands having undergone a bleaching treatment, each of compositions A2 or B2 is applied, at a rate of 0.4g of composition per g of strands; we knead and foam; leave for 1 minute then rinse the wick with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300l/h, temperature = 35°C).

The experts evaluate the sensory cosmetic performance of compositions A2 and B2 on wet hair, based on the criteria of ease of detangling and coating.
These ratings are rated from 0 to 5, with 0 representing the lowest rating and 5 representing the best rating.

The results are presented in the table below:

Sensory performance on wet hair
(average of the scores of the 2 experts) Composition A2 (invention) Composition B2 (comparative) Detangling 2.5 1 Coating 3 2

The A2 composition according to the invention comprising a combination of an alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6% makes it possible to obtain better sensory cosmetic performance, particularly in terms of detangling. and coating, that composition B2 with a total concentration of alpha-omega bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

Claims (14)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
i) one or more anionic surfactants,
ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
iii) one or more alpha-omega bis-amino silicones, and
iv) one or more amino silicones different from silicones iii),
the total silicone content being less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) i) are chosen from anionic sulfate surfactants, anionic sulfonate surfactants, anionic surfactants of the carboxylate type and their mixtures, preferably from C ₆ -C alkylsulfosuccinates ₂₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfoacetates, in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ - alkylsulphates C ₂₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl ether sulfates, in particular in C ₁₂ -C _20, acyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) sarcosinates, in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ; ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20 % by weight, better from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) are chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃₎ -C ₈ ) betaines, and their mixtures; preferably from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 12% by weight, plus preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) iii) are chosen from silicones corresponding to the following formula (I):
(I)
in which :
- the R radicals, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,
- the radicals R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group or a C ₁ -C ₆ aminoalkyl group;
- x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and
- n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the aminated silicone is between 5,000 and 200,000. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) iii) are chosen from silicones corresponding to formula (I) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alpha-omega bis-amino silicone(s) iii) ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from:
a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (IV):

(IV)
in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;
b) amino silicones different from silicones iii) corresponding to formula (V):
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' R'_a' (V)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a and a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero
- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups:
• -NR''-QN(R'') ₂ ,
• -N(R'') ₂ ,
• -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;
c) amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI):

(XII)
in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;
d) amino silicones of formula (XIII):

(XIII)
in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;
e) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group,
f) amino silicones of formulas (XIV) and (XV):
(XIV)
in which :
- R, R' and R''', identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;
(XIV)
in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms,
g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups on a single chain end or on the side chains,
h) and their mixtures. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V) and preferably from those corresponding to one of the formulas (VI), (VII), (VIII ), (IX) and/or (X) below:
(A) silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (VI):
(VI)
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
(B) amino silicones of formula (VII) following:
(VII)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical;
(C) amino silicones of formula (VIII) following:
(VIII)
in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical;
(D) amino silicones of the following formula (IX):
(IX)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms;
(E) amino silicones of the following formula (X):
(X)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms;
and more preferably the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from amodimethicones. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the aminated silicone(s) iv) ranges from 0.05 to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total silicone content is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12 for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.