FR3136978A1 - WASHING COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, A (POLY)GLYCEROL ESTER AND AN ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one glucamide compound, at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol and at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside , and with the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and particular (poly) glycerol. The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention.

Description

WASHING COMPOSITION FOR KERATIN FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, A (POLY)GLYCEROL ESTER AND AN ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one glucamide compound, at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol and at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside , and with the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and particular (poly) glycerol.

The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibers.

For cleaning and/or washing keratin fibers such as hair, the use of detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based essentially on surfactants is common. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massage or friction with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of the various dirt initially present on the hair or skin.

Also, it is known to offer shampoos, in particular for hair sensitized or weakened to varying degrees following the action of atmospheric agents or repeated mechanical or chemical treatments, containing conditioning agents such as silicones, to give the fibers keratin conditioning properties, for example better touch, more suppleness or even ease of detangling.

However, these cleansing compositions based on surfactants and silicones have several disadvantages: the environmental profile of the composition (biodegradability, water footprint) is not always optimal, due to the presence of silicone; the foam start-up, the quality and more particularly the quantity of foam generated are considered insufficient; rapid re-oiling of keratin fibers accompanied by weighting.

In addition, repeated applications of these compositions often have the effect of causing an unpleasant feel to the hair, a loss of volume and nervousness of the hair, and sometimes a lack of shine.

From these observations was born the interest in developing a natural and biodegradable cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, advantageously silicone-free , presenting improved qualities of use and good cosmetic properties, and capable of washing the keratin fibers without weighing them down so as to provide good conditioning properties to the keratin fibers.

At the same time, more and more users of cosmetic products are looking for more aesthetic, or even more original, hair hygiene products.

There is therefore a real need to develop aesthetic compositions, stable over time, based on natural and/or biodegradable ingredients, preferably not including silicone, and making it possible to obtain excellent cleansing and cleaning properties. uses, particularly regarding foam start-up, quality and quantity of foam generated, and viscosity. It is also of interest that these compositions confer good conditioning properties to the keratin fibers, particularly in terms of feel, smoothing, flexibility and detangling.

These aims are achieved with the present invention which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising:

1. at least one anionic surfactant,
2. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant,
3. at least one glucamide compound,
4. at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol, and
5. at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, and

in which the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly) glycerol is less than or equal to 1.

It has been found that the composition according to the invention has excellent washing power for keratin fibers.

In particular, the hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and has good cosmetic properties.

It has also been noted that hair treated in this way is particularly light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more disciplined.

In addition, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular good foam start-up, good quality and quantity of foam. It has particularly been noted that the composition according to the invention, and more precisely the presence of at least one glucamide compound, at least one alkylpolyglucoside and at least one (poly)glycerol ester, makes it possible to generate a large quantity of foam.

The composition according to the invention has a viscosity suitable for use as a shampoo.

Furthermore, it has also been found that the composition according to the invention is particularly stable over time, at atmospheric pressure and at 25°C.

More particularly, when the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one opacifying agent, the composition remains homogeneous and no phase shift phenomenon of the composition has been observed.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more particles (e.g. opacifiers, pigments, flakes, etc.), in the form of a homogeneous and stable suspension.

The visually stable and homogeneous suspension of these particles significantly improves the aesthetics and originality of the composition according to the invention.

By “stable and homogeneous suspension”, within the meaning of the invention, it is understood that said particles are dispersed homogeneously in the composition, that is to say distributed homogeneously within the composition, and that this homogeneous dispersion persists over time, that is to say that the particles do not float, do not sink, do not settle and/or do not form agglomerates in the composition over time, in particular after at least one week of storage.

The invention also relates to a process for treating, in particular cosmetic, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention. .

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

- the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted;

- the expression “between…and…” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from… to…” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included;

- By the expression “greater than” and respectively the expression “less than” within the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval strictly greater, respectively strictly less, and therefore the limits are not included.

- By “keratin fibers” according to the present application, we designate more particularly human keratin fibers, and more preferably hair.

- By “fatty acid” according to the present application, we mean an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

- By “fatty alcohol” according to the present application, we mean an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free.

By the expression "free of silicone", it is meant that the composition according to the invention does not comprise silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content less than or equal to 0 .1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better free of silicone ( 0% by weight).

By “silicone” is meant any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or reticulated structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained for example by polymerization and/or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and essentially consisting of by a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being directly linked via an atom of carbon on said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, aminated silicones and dimethiconols.

The international standard ISO 16128-2 describes the methods for calculating the Natural, Natural Origin, Organic and Biological Origin Indices which apply to the categories of cosmetic ingredients and products defined in the ISO 16128-1 standard. ISO 16128-2 also provides a framework for determining the Natural, Natural, Organic and Organic Content of cosmetic products based on ingredient characterization.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a percentage of natural origin within the meaning of international standard ISO 16128-2, greater than or equal to 90%; more preferably greater than or equal to 92%; more preferably even greater than or equal to 94%.

Anionic surfactants

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant, preferably non-silicone, comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not including a cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. We can obviously use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:
- the anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; And
- sulfated anionic surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

The anionic carboxylate surfactants that can be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ).

The anionic carboxylate surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C ₆ -C ₃₀ aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; and their mixtures;
the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C ₆ -C alkyl polyglycoside tartrates. ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- acylglutamates, in particular C ₆ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, particularly C ₆ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₈ , or even C ₁₄ -C ₂₄ , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylglycinates, particularly C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ) ether carboxylates;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of sarcosinate type surfactants, in particular chosen from alkyl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sarcosinates of formula (I) below:
RC(O)-N(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -C(O)-OX (I)
with
-
- R designating a linear or branched alkyl group, from 5 to 29 carbon atoms.
R preferably denotes a linear or branched alkyl group, of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Among the alkyl (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) sarcosinates of formula (I) which can be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.

The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and their mixtures, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and their mixtures.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds proposed by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):
R1-(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n -OCH ₂ COOA (II)
in which :
- R1 represents a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C ₈ -C ₉ )phenyl radical, an R ₂ CONH-CH ₂ -CH ₂ radical - with R2 designating an alkyl or alkenyl radical linear or branched in C ₉ -C ₂₁ ;
preferably R1 is a C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical, preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
- n is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (II), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R1 groups.

The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (II) in which:
- R1 designates a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
- A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (II) are used in which R1 denotes a C ₁₂ alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^- ).

The anionic sulfonate surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates, as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ ;
- N-acyltaurates in C ₆ -C ₂₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ -C ₂₀
- (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) acylisethionates, preferably (C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ ) acylisethionates,
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ N-acyltaurates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ , and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, C ₆ - acylisethionates. C ₂₄ , in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , as well as their salts and their mixtures.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ acylisethionates, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , as well as their salts and their mixtures.

The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

The anionic sulfate surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;
the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:
- alkyl sulfates, particularly C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ,
- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As an example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants.

More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, the salts of these compounds, and their mixtures;
the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;
these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates, better C ₈ -C ₂₄ , even better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂
- C ₆ -C ₂₄ , better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units,
- the salts of these compounds and their mixtures;
in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates, better still C ₈ -C ₂₄ , even better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ .

Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 15 % by weight, better 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) sulfate(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 15%. by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactants

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention, may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear chain or branched comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₁ -C ₆ )betaines, alkyl(C 8 -C 20)betaines ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₁ -C ₆ )sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also cite the following compounds of respective structures (III) and (IV):
R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (III)
formula (III), in which:
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably R _a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; And
^- _{_ _ _ _ _} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;
R _a '-CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (IV)
formula (IV), in which:
- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a ' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a '-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably R _a ' a group alkyl, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL ^® C2M concentrate.

We can also use compounds of formula (V):
R _a ''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (V)
formula (V), in which:
- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a '' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ''-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; And
- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (V) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants cited above, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines, such as as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphoacetates, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphodiacetates and their mixtures.

More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and their mixtures; more preferably still among cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

Even better, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines, and very particularly cocamidopropylbetaine.

Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaine(s) and alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaine(s) present in the composition ranges from 0 .1 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaine(s), such as cocamidopropylbetaine, present(s) in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight , more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition is greater than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to at 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably still 6 to 20% by weight, better still 7 to 15% by weight, better still 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, plus preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 6 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates and alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaine(s) and alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaine(s) present ( s) in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, better still from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 7.5 at 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i), to the total content of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is less than or equal to 4 .5; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably still between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of anionic sulfate(s) surfactant(s) to the total content of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 4.5 ; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably still between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates, to the total content of alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) betaine(s) and alkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) amidoalkyl (C ₃ - C ₈ ) betaine(s) is less than or equal to 4.5; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably still between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9.

Glucamide compounds

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glucamide compound.

The glucamide compounds which can be used according to the invention are described in particular in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.

Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl-glucamides, more preferably those having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (counting the carbon atom of the carbonyl group –C(O)–), preferably from 6 to 22, better 6 to 20, even better 6 and 14.

More preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those of the following general formula (A):
(HAS)
in which :
- The Gl–N group represents a glucamine, of which N is the nitrogen atom of glucamine,
- R ₁ represents a C ₁ -C ₂ alkyl radical, preferably a methyl,
- R ₂ represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, C ₃ -C ₂₉ ; preferably in C ₅ -C ₂₁ , more preferably in C ₅ -C ₁₉ , better still in C ₅ -C ₁₃ ; and optionally substituted with one or more –OH hydroxyl groups.

Even more preferably:
- The Gl–N group represents a glucamine, of which N is the nitrogen atom of glucamine,
- R ₁ represents a methyl, and
- R ₂ represents a linear C ₃ -C ₂₉ alkyl radical; preferably in C ₅ -C ₂₁ , more preferably in C ₅ -C ₁₉ , better still in C ₅ -C ₁₃ , better still in C ₇ -C ₉ ; and optionally substituted with one or more –OH hydroxyl groups.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds; more preferably the composition according to the invention comprises two glucamide compounds.

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “glucamide” and “glucamine” include all of their respective isomers.

Among the glucamide compounds which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made, alone or in mixture:
- myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, tournesoloyl (sunfloweroyl) methyl glucamide,
- methylglucamide oleoyl oleate, methylglucamide stearoyl stearate, methylglucamide tocopheryl succinate.

We particularly prefer the glucamide compounds chosen from, alone or as a mixture, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and tournesoloyl (sunfloweroyl) methyl glucamide.

Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, mention may be made of lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide which are particularly preferred.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide.

Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0. 8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) whose hydrocarbon chain comprises between 4 and 30 carbon atoms, present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0. 5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A), present in the composition, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably another 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.8 to 3% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol.

Preferably, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol comprise on average from 1 to 30 moles of glycerol; more preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, better still from 1 to 5 moles of glycerol.

For the purposes of the present invention, “average” means a number average.

More preferably, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from monoesters of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid and (poly)glycerol; more preferably still among the monoesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid and (poly) glycerol.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from the compounds of formula (X) below:
(X)
in which :
- R represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C ₅ -C ₃₉ , preferably in C ₇ -C ₂₉ , better still in C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ ;
- m, p and r represent an integer between 0 and 30, and are such that the sum of the integers m, p and r is between 1 and 30, better between 1 and 10, and even better between 1 and 5.

Preferably according to this embodiment, p = r = 0, and m is an integer between 1 and 30, more preferably m is an integer between 1 and 10, or even between 1 and 5.

Even more preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one monoester of fatty acid and glycerol, better still at least one monoester of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid (even better C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) and of glycerol. In other words, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from the compounds of formula (X) for which p = r = 0 and m = 1.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from the compounds of formula (XI) below:
(XII)
in which :
- R represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C ₅ -C ₃₉ , preferably in C ₇ -C ₂₉ , better still in C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ , and even better in C ₁₄ -C ₁₉ .

Preferably according to this embodiment, the hydrocarbon chain R is unsaturated.

Very particularly preferably, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from monoesters of fatty acid and glycerol (ie 1 mole of glycerol); preferably from C ₆ -C ₄₀ (even better C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) fatty acid and glycerol monoesters; and very particularly among the monoester of oleic acid and glycerol, the monoester of sapienic acid and glycerol, the monoester of palmitoleic acid and glycerol, the monoester of linoleic acid and glycerol, the monoester of lauric acid and glycerol, myristic acid and glycerol monoester, stearic acid and glycerol monoester, palmitic acid and glycerol monoester, arachidic acid and glycerol monoester, and mixtures thereof.

Better still, the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from monoesters of oleic acid and (poly)glycerol (such as glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate or polyglyceryl-5 oleate) , and their mixtures.

Preferably, the total content of fatty acid monoester(s), preferably C ₆ -C ₄₀ (even better C ₈ -C ₃₀ ), and (poly)glycerol present(s) in the composition according to invention, is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, even more preferably between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, for example relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of fatty acid monoester(s), preferably C ₆ -C ₄₀ (even better C ₈ -C ₃₀ ), and glycerol present in the composition according to the invention, is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, even more preferably between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.

Preferably, the total content of glyceryl oleate in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkyl(poly)glycosides

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkyl (poly) glycoside.

The alkyl (poly) glycosides can in particular be chosen from those of the following general formula:
R ₁ O-(R ₂ O) _t -(G) _v
in which:
- R ₁ represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
- v designates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycosides are compounds of formula described above in which:
- R ₁ designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
- R ₂ represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
- G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.

Advantageously, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are alkyl(poly)glucosides, such as (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glucosides. We particularly prefer (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) 1,4 alkyl(poly)glucosides, and in particular coco-glucosides, decylglucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

Among the commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN ^® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE ^® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX ^® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AG10 LK.

More preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are chosen from (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glycosides; more preferably still among (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl(poly) glycosides; even better among (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl (poly) glycosides such as coco-glucosides, decyl glucosides, caprylyl/capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glucoside chosen from (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glucosides; more preferably still among (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkyl(poly)glucosides; even better among (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl (poly) glucosides such as coco-glucosides, decyl-glucosides, caprylyl/capryl-glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0 .1 to 3% by weight, even better 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl(poly) glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly) glycerol (iv) is less than or equal to 1.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly) glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0, 7, and very particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid monoester(s) ( better in C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) and (poly)glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0 .8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and very particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl (poly) glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid monoester(s) and of glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0, 8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and very particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) (v), to the total content of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid monoester(s) ( better in C ₈ -C ₃₀ ) and glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and very particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

Cationic polymers

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one cationic polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" designates any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups. and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

Cationic polymers are not siliconed (do not include a Si-O unit).

Cationic polymers may or may not be associative.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from non-associative cationic polymers.

The cationic polymers capable of being used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 500 and 5.10 ⁶ , preferably between approximately 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ .

Among the cationic polymers, we can cite more particularly:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

formulas in which:
- R ₃ , identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;
- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; And
- X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C ₁ -C ₄ ), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:
- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,
- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products called "COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,
- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bis acrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name “SALCARE ^® SC 92” by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE ^® SC 95” and “SALCARE ^® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and we can cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, such as for example polyquaternium-10.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt. methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium, such as for example polyquaternium-4. The products marketed meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, it is also possible to use cationic associative celluloses, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear alkyl groups. or branched, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14 , carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyls, linear or branched alkylaryls, preferably linear or branched alkyls, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, we can cite hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN ⁺ –, Q ^- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃₀ , preferably an alkyl, and Q ^- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide;

- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN ⁺ –, Q' ^- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched , C ₁ to C ₃₀ , preferably an alkyl, and Q' ^- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl; better in C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ , or even in C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ ; we can in particular cite the dodecyl radical (C ₁₂ ). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl, in particular methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₃₀ alkyl; better in C ₁₀ to C ₂₄ , or even in C ₁₀ to C ₁₄ ; we can in particular cite the dodecyl radical (C ₁₂ ). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl, in particular methyl.

Even better, R can be a group chosen from –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- and
–N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- , preferably a group –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- .

Even better, R' can be a group –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- .

Aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

We can in particular cite the polymers with the INCI name:
- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200 ^® , marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM ^® ;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C ₁₂ alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL ^® and
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C ₁₈ alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS ^® , marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ - and R ' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₂ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )N ⁺ -. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, we can cite SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL /DOW CHEMICAL.

More particularly the polymers of formula (Ib) are for example those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cps. You can also use SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 cPs.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US3589578 and US4031307, and we can cite guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 or JAGUAR EXCEL by the company RHODIA. Such compounds have the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or even by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, 'an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer. /epoxypropyl/diethylene-triamine.

(7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (VI) or (VII):

formulas (VI) and (VII), in which:
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
- R ₁₂ denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, designate an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a C amidoalkyl group ₁ to C ₄ ; or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ can designate, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , independently of each other, preferably designate an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; And
- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and their counterparts with low weight average molar masses) and the copolymers of salts (for example example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

formula (VIII), in which:
- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals (preferably C ₁ -C ₆ ), or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -D group where R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
- A ₁ and B ₁ represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or a or several atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazin ring;
furthermore if A ₁ designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B ₁ can also designate a group (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _n - in which D designates:
a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - and -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or a number any one from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ; Or
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

formula (IX) in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to approximately 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X ^- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IX) is that for which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and ).

(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (X):

formula (X), in which:
- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ radical (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,
- X ^- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A designates a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

We can for example cite the products "Mirapol ^® A 15", "Mirapol ^® AD1", "Mirapol ^® AZ1" and "Mirapol ^® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example the products marketed under the names Luviquat ^® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart ^® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B). , preferably from 10 to 100 mole % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mole % of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic environment.

The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can preferably vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g/mole, more preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mole. mole.

The cationic charge density of these polymers can preferably vary from 2 meq/g to 20 meq/g, more preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and possibly units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095 , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

(13) and their mixtures.

Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferably non-associative cationic polysaccharides.

More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.

Very particularly preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.

Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. , more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight. , more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5%. by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The particles

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more particles.

By “particles” we mean small, split objects made up of solid particles aggregated together, of variable shapes and sizes. They can be regular or irregular in shape. They can in particular be of spherical shape (like granules, pellets, balls), square, rectangular, or elongated like sticks. Spherical particles are particularly preferred. The size of the particles can advantageously be comprised, in its largest dimension, between 1nm and 5mm, preferably between 10nm and 2mm, more preferably between 100 nm and 100µm and better still between 1µm and 50µm. These particle sizes can be measured with a laser particle size analyzer (for example using the Brookhaven BI90).

Preferably, the particles according to the invention are chosen from opacifiers such as mica and glycol distearate, pigments such as titanium dioxide, fragments of one or more plants, and mixtures thereof.

By “fragment”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a piece or part of a plant, obtained for example by pulling up or grinding the plant, or by cutting said plant.

By “fragments of one or more plants”, for the purposes of the present invention, is meant that the composition comprises either several fragments of one and the same species of plant, or that the composition comprises several fragments of several different species of plants. .

More particularly, the particles are visually suspended in a stable and homogeneous manner, in the medium, preferably cosmetic, of the composition according to the invention.

When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more particles, the suspensory properties of the composition according to the invention allow the particles to be maintained in stable and homogeneous suspension.

The viscosity of the composition according to the invention can be evaluated by determining at a temperature of 25°C, the flow time of a quantity of product (for example 90g of product flowed) through an orifice calibrated at using a Ford cup viscometer, equipped with a Ford cup with an orifice diameter of 8 mm (cF8).

Preferably, the flow time of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 30 seconds, in particular greater than or equal to 50 seconds; in particular between 30 and 300 seconds, even between 50 and 250 seconds, even better between 50 and 120 seconds.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one inorganic salt, and more preferably sodium chloride.

For the purposes of the present application, the inorganic salt(s) are different from anionic surfactants (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii), particles, and more particularly from all the ingredients described above.

Preferably, the total content of inorganic salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and more preferably still from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, that is to say that the medium of the composition is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.

More preferably, the total water content of the composition according to the invention is between 20 and 98% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 96% by weight, even more preferably between 60 and 95% by weight, even better between 70 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

It is understood within the meaning of the invention that the organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.

As examples of organic solvents, one can in particular use those which are water-soluble, such as C ₁ -C ₇ alcohols, and in particular aliphatic or aromatic C ₁ -C ₇ monoalcohols, C ₃ -C polyols. ₇ and C ₃ -C ₇ polyol ethers, which can be used alone or mixed with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent(s) can be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₂ -C ₇ polyol; more preferably in C ₂ -C ₆ ; and even more preferably propylene glycol.

Preferably, when the organic solvent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of C ₂ -C ₇ organic solvent(s) is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, plus preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight, even more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises water, the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferably between 3.5 and 8.0, more preferably still between 4.0. and 7.0, even better between 4.5 and 6.5.

The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents (such as monoethanolamine) and/or acidifying agents (such as citric acid).

The composition according to the invention may optionally also contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, thickeners, dyes.

These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these possible additives and their quantities so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The composition according to the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of shampoo.

The invention also relates to a process for treating, in particular cosmetic, keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined above. .

Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for washing and/or conditioning human keratin fibers, more particularly hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said human keratin fibers a composition as defined above. .

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a step of rinsing the keratin fibers is implemented after the step(s) of applying a composition according to the invention to said fibers.

A step of drying the keratin fibers can be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a hair straightener, a steam iron or a helmet. heating; the heating means being able to heat to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50°C to 120°C.

The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

Example 1:
Compositions A1, A2 and A3 according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active ingredient (MA).

Ingredients A1 A2 A3 Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.5 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.8 1.7 Coco-betaine 0.1 0.1 0.1 Capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide 1.0 1.4 1.0 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 0.4 Coco-glucoside 0.26 0.26 0.26 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.38 0.38 0.38 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 1.2 Glycol distearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 Conservatives qs qs qs Propylene glycol 0.1 0.2 0.1 pH agent Qsp
pH = 4.8 Qsp
pH = 4.8 Qsp
pH = 5.3 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) 0.65 0.65 0.65

It has been observed that hair treated with one of the compositions A1, A2 or A3 according to the invention is particularly clean, easy to detangle, supple and soft to the touch.

In addition, compositions A1, A2 or A3 according to the invention generate a foam of good quality and in large quantity.

Example 2:
Comparative composition B was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active ingredient (AM).

Ingredients B
Comparison Sodium lauryl sulfate 5.90 Coco-betaine 1.61 Glyceryl oleate 0.53 Coco-glucoside 3.51 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.40 Sodium chloride 1.35 Glycol distearate 0.50 Conservatives Qs pH agent Qsp pH = 5.3 Water Qsp 100 Weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) 6.62

2.1 Smoothing to the touch:
The smoothness of the hair treated with compositions A1 and A2 of Example 1 (invention) or composition B (comparative), were evaluated.

Compositions A1, A2 and B were respectively applied to strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) weighing 1g and measuring 27cm long, at a ratio of 0.4 gram of composition/gram of hair.

The smoothness was then evaluated for each of the treated strands of hair (dry or wet), by measuring the friction force (ie friction work in mJ) using a Lloyd Instrument traction-compression machine (Ametek ^® ).

More particularly, the friction force between the wick to be evaluated (dry or wet) and two rollers of the traction-compression machine which pass along the wick, from the root to the tips at constant speed, and which simulate the fingers of the consumer, is measured in mJ.

The smoother the strand of hair is to the touch, the lower the friction force measured.

The results are grouped in the table below.

Compositions Friction work on damp hair
(mJ) Friction work on dry hair
(mJ) A1 (invention) 96.9 ± 9.3 134.2 ± 11.3 A2 (invention) 92.5 ±10.4 131.99 ± 7.72 B (comparative) 134.3 ±9.7 255.2 ± 18.6

It is observed that the hair treated with composition A1 or composition A2 according to the invention has better smoothness to the touch than the hair treated with the comparative composition B.

2.2 Stability :
The stabilities of compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention and of comparative composition B were evaluated.

For this, compositions A1, A2 and B, white in color and homogeneous in appearance, were placed for 2 months in an oven at a temperature of 45°C and in the dark.

After two months of storage at 45°C, it was found that the compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention remained homogeneous in appearance, white in color, and without any phase shift phenomenon.

After two months of storage at 45°C, it was found that comparative composition B is now out of phase and brown in color.

It appears that compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention have better stability over time than the comparative composition B.

Example 3:
A sensory evaluation of the hair treated with compositions A1 and A2 (invention) of Example 1 was carried out.

Compositions A1 and A2 according to the invention were respectively applied to strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) at a ratio of 0.4 grams of composition/gram of hair.

A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each strand treated dry, then wet, was carried out by 3 experts. To do this, each expert compares one of the treated strands (by A1 or by A2) with a strand of hair treated with a commercial shampoo comprising a silicone and a cationic polymer and according to the same ratio of 0.4 gram of composition / gram of hair.

Each expert then notes the strands of hair treated according to the invention, according to the following notation:
+3: much much better than with commercial shampoo,
+2: much better than with commercial shampoo,
+1: better than with commercial shampoo,
+0.5: a little better than with commercial shampoo,
0: similar to the strand treated with commercial shampoo,
- 0.5: a little less good than with commercial shampoo,
-1: less good than with commercial shampoo.

The results are grouped in the table below.

Properties A1 A2 Wet hair Detangling +1 +3 Smooth +1 +1 Flexibility +1.5 +1 Coating +1 +2 Dry hair Smooth +1.5 +1 Flexibility +2 +0.5

It can be seen that hair treated with compositions A1 or A2 according to the invention has conditioning properties that are at least equivalent, and even better in certain properties, than hair treated with commercial shampoo based on silicone and cationic polymer.

Example 4:
Composition A1 according to the invention and comparative composition B2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed in % by weight of active ingredient (MA).

Ingredients A1 B2 Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.7 Coco-betaine 0.1 0.1 Capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide 1.0 - Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 Coco-glucoside 0.26 0.26 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.38 0.38 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 0.5 0.5 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 Conservatives qs qs Propylene glycol 0.1 0.1 pH agent Qsp
pH = 4.8 Qsp
pH = 4.8 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

4.1 Smooth touch and detangling:
Compositions A1 or B2 are applied to moderately sensitized locks (alkaline solubility = 20%, SA 20) previously moistened in a standardized manner by kneading the locks for 15 seconds (6 passes between the fingers) at a rate of 1g/2.7g of hair .

After a 1 minute break, the hair is rinsed for 20 seconds (25 passes between the fingers).

The hair is then dried, and its smooth feel is assessed while still damp; the hair is then air-dried and detangling is evaluated on dry hair.

The impact of the invention on smooth touch performance was evaluated on damp hair by 5 experts, during a blind test, on a rating scale ranging from 0 (weak) to 8 (very Good).

To assess the smooth feel, the expert grasps the strand between thumb and index finger and slides his or her fingers along the strand from the upper part to the ends;

It assesses whether the hair is soft, whether it has any rough edges, whether it does not catch the fingers, whether the feel is even.

The results are grouped in the table below.

Smooth Touch A1 invention B2 invention Expert 1 4 2 Expert 2 4 2 Expert 3 4 5 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 4 2 Average 4 2.8 Standard deviation 0 0.96

The smooth feel conferred by composition A1 according to the invention is judged to be significantly better than that conferred by comparative composition B2.

The impact of the invention on detangling performance was evaluated on dry hair by 1 expert, during a blind test, on a rating scale ranging from 0 (poor) to 8 (very good). ).

To assess detangling, the expert assesses the ease of passing a fine comb through the hair, sliding it from root to tip.

The results are grouped in the table below.

A1
Invention B2
Comparison 6.4 3.2

The hair treated with composition A1 according to the invention is significantly easier to detangle compared to that treated with composition B2.

Claims (15)

Composition comprising:

1. at least one anionic surfactant,
2. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant,
3. at least one glucamide compound,
4. at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol, and
5. at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, and

in which the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly) glycerol is less than or equal to 1. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants;
preferably from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof;
more preferably among C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates, better C ₈ -C ₂₄ , even better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl ether sulfates, better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, the salts of these compounds, and their mixtures;
more preferably still among C ₆ -C ₃₀ alkyl sulfates, better still C ₈ -C ₂₄ , even better C ₁₀ -C ₂₄ , or even C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C) ₈ ) betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphoacetates, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amphodiacetates and their mixtures; preferably from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucamide compound(s) are chosen from acyl-glucamides, preferably from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 at 22, better from 6 to 20, even better from 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of glucamide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0 .8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoester(s) of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol are chosen from monoesters of C ₆ -C ₄₀ fatty acid and (poly)glycerol; preferably from C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters; more preferably among the monoesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid and glycerol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycosides are chosen from (C ₆ -C ₃₀ )alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl(poly)glycosides; more preferably among (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl (poly) glycosides; best among coco-glucosides, decyl-glucosides, caprylyl/capryl-glucosides, lauryl-glucosides, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl (poly) glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly) glycerol is less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.9, more preferably between 0.01 and 0.9, more preferably still less than or equal to 0.8, better still between 0.05 and 0.8, again better less than or equal to 0.7, or even between 0.1 and 0.7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic polymer, preferably chosen from non-associative cationic polymers; and more preferably chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:


formulas in which:
- R ₃ , identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH ₃ radical;
- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ , identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; And
- X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide,
(2) cationic polysaccharides, such as cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums,
(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers,
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acid compound with a polyamine,
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation by bifunctional agents,
(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms,
(7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers,
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula (VIII):

formula (VIII), in which:
- R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ represent a C alkyl radical ₁ to C ₆ linear or branched substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ₁₇ -D or -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -D group where R ₁₇ is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
- A ₁ and B ₁ represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or a or several atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
it being understood that A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazin ring;
furthermore if A ₁ designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B ₁ can also designate a group (CH ₂ ) _n -CO-D-OC-(CH ₂ ) _n - in which D designates:
a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - and -[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or a number any one from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ; Or
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-,
(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (X):

formula (X), in which:
- R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ radical (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,
- X ^- denotes an anion such as a halide, and
- A designates a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -;
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole,
(11) polyamines; And
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B):
,
(13) and their mixtures. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably among cationic guar gums. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is silicone-free. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more particles, preferably chosen from opacifiers, pigments, fragments of one or more plants, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a percentage of natural origin, within the meaning of international standard ISO 16128-2, greater than or equal to 90%; preferably greater than or equal to 92%; more preferably greater than or equal to 94%. Process for treating keratin fibers, preferably washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.