FR2788971A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING CATIONIC OIL AND CONDITIONER AGENT AND USES THEREOF - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns novel cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium an oil comprising at least an amine group and at least a urethane group and at least a conditioner selected among polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants. Said combination provides highly improved cosmetic properties (disentangling, softness) compared to properties obtained from one or the other of the constituents when used on its own. Said compositions are used for washing and/or conditioning keratinous materials such as the hair or the skin.

Description

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COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING CATIONIC OIL AND A
CONDITIONER AGENT AND USES THEREOF.

The present invention relates to novel cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one conditioning agent chosen from polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants and at least one oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group.

It is well known that hair which has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or embrittled) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as colorations, discolorations and / or perms, are often difficult to disentangle and comb, and lack softness.

It has already been advocated in the compositions for washing or caring for keratin materials such as the hair the use of conditioning agents, in particular cationic polymers or silicones, to facilitate disentangling of the hair and to impart softness and suppleness to it. However, the cosmetic benefits mentioned above are unfortunately also accompanied, on dried hair, certain cosmetic effects deemed undesirable, namely a heavier hair (lack of lightness of the hair), a lack of smoothing (non-homogeneous hair of root to tip).

In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose has various disadvantages. Because of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers deposit significantly during repeated use, and lead to undesirable effects such as unpleasant, loaded, stiffening of the hair, and interfiber adhesion affecting styling. These disadvantages are accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lack of nervousness and volume.

In summary, it turns out that the current cosmetic compositions containing conditioning agents, are not completely satisfactory.

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The Applicant has now discovered that the combination of an oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group with certain conditioning agents makes it possible to remedy these drawbacks because of a synergistic effect.

Thus, following important research conducted on the subject, it has now been found by the Applicant that introducing an oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group in the compositions particularly capillary art based on particular conditioning agents, it is possible to limit or even eliminate the problems generally related to the use of such compositions, namely in particular the increase in weight, the lack of smoothing and softness, hair, everything retaining the other advantageous cosmetic properties that are attached to compositions based on conditioning agents.

This combination brings significantly improved cosmetic properties compared to the properties obtained with one or the other of the constituents used alone.

Furthermore, the compositions of the invention applied to the skin, especially in the form of a bubble bath or a shower gel, provide an improvement in the softness of the skin.

Thus, according to the present invention, it is now proposed new cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group and at least one conditioning agent chosen from polyamines. olefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants.

Another subject of the invention relates to the use of an oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group as below in, or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a conditioning agent chosen from the polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide compounds and cationic surfactants.

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The different objects of the invention will now be detailed. All the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all the objects of the invention.

dans laquelle R désigne un radical hydrocarboné en C8-C30, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié. De préférence R désigne un radical alkyle en C8-C30, saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié. Plus particulièrement, R est choisi parmi les radicaux oléyle, linoléyle, linolényle et leurs mélanges. x + y a une valeur moyenne variant de 2 à 15 et de préférence de 2 à 8 et plus particulièrement égale à 2. The oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group is derived in particular from the reaction between an organic diisocyanate and an amine of formula (I) below:

in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 hydrocarbon radical. Preferably, R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl radical. More particularly, R is selected from oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl and mixtures thereof. x + y has an average value ranging from 2 to 15 and preferably from 2 to 8 and more particularly equal to 2.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (I) is the product called PEG-2 Soyamine.

Les produits de réaction peuvent être représentés par la formule suivante (II) :

dans laquelle R, x et y ont les mêmes significations que ci-dessus. The organic diisocyanate is in particular isophorone diisocyanate of formula:

The reaction products may be represented by the following formula (II):

wherein R, x and y have the same meanings as above.

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 n can vary from 1 to 5.

De préférence, n est égal à 1 (composés A) , 2 (composés B) ou 3 (composés C). X denotes the divalent radical of formula (III) below:

Preferably, n is 1 (compounds A), 2 (compounds B) or 3 (compounds C).

It is possible to use a mixture of compounds of formula (II) and in particular the mixture of compounds A, B and C.

An oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group according to the invention is especially marketed under the name Polymord PPI-SA by the company ALZO.

The oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group is preferably used in an amount of between 0.05 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, this amount is between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The conditioning agents may be in liquid, semi-solid or solid form such as, for example, oils, waxes or gums.

According to the invention, the conditioning agents must be chosen from polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants and their mixtures. The preferred conditioning agents according to the invention are polyolefins, cationic polymers and silicones.

The polyolefins are preferably poly-α-olefins and in particular:

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 - Polybutene type, hydrogenated or not, and preferably polyisobutene, hydrogenated or not.

Isobutylene oligomers with a molecular weight of less than 1000 and their mixtures with polyisobutylenes with a molecular weight greater than 1000 and preferably between 1000 and 15000 are preferably used.

As examples of poly-α-olefins that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of the polyisobutenes sold under the name Perrmyl 99 A, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A (n = 16) and 106A (n = 38) by the company PRESPERSE Inc, or even the products sold under the name ARLAMOL HD (n = 3) by the company ICI (n denoting the degree of polymerization), - of the polydecene, hydrogenated or no.

Such products are sold, for example, under the names ETHYLFLO by the company ETHYL CORP., And ARLAMOL PAO by the company ICI.

The mineral oils that can be used in the compositions of the invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by: hydrocarbons, such as hexadecane and paraffin oil; The cationic polymer type conditioning agents that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A- 0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 470 596 and 2 519 863.

Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

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The cationic polymers used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide or quaternary polyammonium type which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas:

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 in which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl hologenide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company Hercules, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755 "or the

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 products referred to as "COPOLYMER 845,958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers. ! methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine marketed in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP.

and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl- hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyl trimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch.

(4) The cationic polysaccharides described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.

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Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2 162,025 and 2,280,361; (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bisazetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508; (7) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipiquadioacylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.

 Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

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 (8) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: and 1.4: 1, the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the amine group. secondary polyaminoamide between 0.5: and 1.8: Such polymers are described in particular in US Patents 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

 Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine.

formules dans lesquelles k et t sont égaux à 0 ou 1, la somme k + t étant égale à 1 ; R12 désigne un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle ; R10 et R11, indépendamment l'un de l'autre, désignent un groupement alkyle ayant de 1 à 22 atomes de carbone, un groupement hydroxyalkyle dans lequel le groupement alkyle a de préférence 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, un groupement amidoalkyle inférieur (C1-C4) ou R10 et R11peuvent désigner conjointement avec l'atome d'azote auquel ils sont rattachés, des groupement hétérocycliques, tels que pipéridinyle ou morpholinyle ; Y est un anion tel que bromure, chlorure, acétate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Ces polymères sont notamment décrits dans le brevet français 2.080.759 et dans son certificat d'addition 2.190.406. (9) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (VI) or (VI '):

formulas in which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4) or R10 and R11 may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

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R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

 Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low molecular weight average) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550".

formule (VII) dans laquelle :
R13, R14, R15 et R16, identiques ou différents, représentent des radicaux aliphatiques, alicycliques, ou arylaliphatiques contenant de 1 à 20 atomes de carbone ou des radicaux hydroxyalkylaliphatiques inférieurs, ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16, ensemble ou séparément, constituent avec les atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés des hétérocycles contenant éventuellement un second hétéroatome autre que l'azote ou bien R13, R14, R15 et R16 représentent un radical alkyle en C1-C6 linéaire ou ramifié substitué par un groupement nitrile, ester, acyle, amide ou -CO-O-R17-D ou-CO- NH-R17-D où R17 est un alkylène et D un groupement ammonium quaternaire ;
A1 et B1 représentent des groupements polyméthyléniques contenant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone pouvant être linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, et pouvant contenir, liés à ou intercalés dans la chaîne principale, un ou plusieurs cycles aromatiques, ou un ou plusieurs atomes d'oxygène, de soufre ou des groupements sulfoxyde, sulfone, disulfure, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyle, ammonium quaternaire, uréido, amide ou ester, et
X- désigne un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou organique;
A1, R13 et R15 peuvent former avec les deux atomes d'azote auxquels ils sont rattachés un cycle pipérazinique ; outre si A1 désigne un radical alkylène ou (10) the quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units having the formula:

formula (VII) in which:
R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile group, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D wherein R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more carbon atoms; oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if A1 denotes an alkylene radical or

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linear or branched hydroxyalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, B1 may also denote a (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH3) - wherein x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;
Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

 These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

 Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2, 320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,771,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,989,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027. .020.

It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

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 in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to approximately 20 and, X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (a) which is particularly preferred is that for which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, referred to as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

formule dans laquelle :
R18, R19, R20 et R21, identiques ou différents, représentent un atome d'hydrogène ou un radical méthyle, éthyle, propyle, ss-hydroxyéthyle, -hydroxypropyle ou -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH, où p est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 6, sous réserve que R18, R19, R20 et R21 ne représentent pas simultanément un atome d'hydrogène, r et s, identiques ou différents, sont des nombres entiers compris entre 1 et 6, q est égal à 0 ou à un nombre entier compris entre 1 et 34,
X- désigne un anion tel qu'un halogènure,
A désigne un radical d'un dihalogénure ou représente de préférence -CH2-CH2-0-CH2-CH2-. (11) quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (VIII):

formula in which:
R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ss-hydroxyethyl, -hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) pOH radical, where p is 0 or a an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
X- denotes an anion such as a halogenide,
A denotes a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.

Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324.

For example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by the company Miranol can be mentioned among them.

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(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referenced under the name POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE in the CTFA dictionary.

(14) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by the methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name SALCARE SC 92 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE SC 95 and SALCARE # SC 96 by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

Among all the cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by the company Union Carbide Corporation, cyclopolymers cationic polymers, in particular the homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT 550 and MERQUAT S by the

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 CALGON company, the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric polymers are described in particular in French patents FR-2,470,596, FR-2,486,394 and FR-2,519,863.

The amphoteric polymers are, for example, chosen from the following polymers: 1) the polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide or their quaternized derivatives. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537.

Among these polymers, mention may especially be made of the acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name Polymer W37194 by the company Stockausen.

 (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with an alkyl radical, b) with at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups reagents, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituent esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the groups in which the alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, N-tert-octyl acrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic, fumaric and monoesteric acids.

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 alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER LV71 or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, are particularly used.

 3) Polymers derived from diallyldialkylammonium and an anionic monomer such as more particularly polymers comprising from 60 to approximately 99% by weight of unit derived from a quaternary diallyldialkylammonium monomer, in which the alkyl groups are chosen independently from the groups alkyl having 1 to 18 carbon atoms and wherein the anion is derived from an acid having an ionization constant greater than 10-13 and 1 to 40% by weight of said polymer of an anionic monomer selected from acrylic or methacrylic, the molecular weight of this polymer being between about 50,000 and 10,000,000 determined by gel permeation chromatography and described in particular in the application EP-A-269 243. Among these polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and diethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid.

 Particularly preferred products are the products sold under the name "Merquat 280" by the company CALGON in the form of an aqueous solution containing 35% of active ingredients, this polymer being a copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylic acid. Usable silicones according to the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition and may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academy Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

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 When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 carbon atoms and from preferably 4 to 5.

It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by CARBIDE UNION, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE POULENC, as well as their mixtures.

On peut également citer les mélanges de silicones cycliques avec des composés organiques dérivés du silicium, tels que le mélange d'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane et de tétratriméthylsilylpentaérythritol (50/50) et le mélange d'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane et d'oxy-1,1'(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-triméthylsilyloxy) bis-néopentane ; (ii) les silicones volatiles linéaires ayant 2 à 9 atomes de silicium et possédant une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 5.10-6m2/s à 25 C. Il s'agit, par exemple, du décaméthyltétrasiloxane commercialisé notamment sous la dénomination "SH 200" par la société TORAY SILICONE. Des silicones entrant dans cette classe sont également décrites dans l'article publié dans Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 TODD & BYERS 'Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxanesl methylakylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure:

Mention may also be made of cyclic silicone mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexamethylcyclotetrasiloxane). 2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics.

Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used.

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These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 5.10 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1.10 -5 to 1 m 2 / s.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHONE POULENC; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as, more particularly, the DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 Cst; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series of the company Rhone-Poulenc.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl methylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m2 / s at 25 C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: the SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHONE POULENC; . RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHONE POULENC; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

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. silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . some oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023,
SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydiorganosiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

The following products may more particularly be mentioned: polydimethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane.

More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature), such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; . mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; . mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General

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 ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2/2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl radical C1-C4, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.

The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee, or

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dans laquelle les radicaux R3 identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi les radicaux méthyle et phényle ; au moins 60 % en mole des radicaux R3 désignant méthyle ; le radical R'3 est un chaînon alkylène divalent hydrocarboné en C2-C18 ; p est compris entre 1 et 30 inclus ; q est compris entre 1 et 150 inclus ; - des groupements acyloxyalkyle tels que par exemple les polyorganosiloxanes décrits dans le brevet US-A-4957732 et répondant à la formule (X) :

dans laquelle : R4 désigne un groupement méthyle, phényle, -OCORs, hydroxyle, un seul des radicaux R4 par atome de silicium pouvant être OH ; products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; thiol groups such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from GENESEE; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT; hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR-A-85 16334 corresponding to the formula (IX):

in which the radicals R3 which are identical or different are chosen from methyl and phenyl radicals; at least 60 mol% of the radicals R3 denoting methyl; the radical R '3 is a C2-C18 hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is from 1 to 150 inclusive; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Pat. No. 4,957,732 and corresponding to formula (X):

in which: R4 denotes a methyl, phenyl, -OCORs, hydroxyl group, only one of the radicals R4 per silicon atom may be OH;

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dans des proportions ne dépassant pas 15 % de la somme p + q + r. R'4 is methyl, phenyl; at least 60% in molar proportion of all the radicals R4 and R'4 denoting methyl; R5 is C8-C20 alkyl or alkenyl; R "denotes a linear or branched C2-C18 divalent hydrocarbon alkylene radical, r is between 1 and 120 inclusive, p is between 1 and 30, q is 0 or less than 0.5 p, p + q being between 1 and 30, the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) may contain groups:

in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p + q + r.

 anionic groups of the carboxylic type, for example in the products described in patent EP 186 507 of the company Chisso Corporation, or of alkylcarboxylic type, such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E of the company Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate; 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201" and "ABIL S255".

 hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use silicones comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer, the other being grafted onto the said main chain. . These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-A-412 704, EP-A-412 707, EP-A-640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582 152 and WO 93/23009 and the US Patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. These polymers are preferably anionic or nonionic.

Such polymers are, for example, the copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization from the monomer mixture consisting of: a) 50 to 90% by weight of tert-butyl acrylate;

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avec v étant un nombre allant de 5 à 700 ; les pourcentages en poids étant calculés par rapport au poids total des monomères. b) 0 to 40% by weight of acrylic acid; c) 5 to 40% by weight of silicone macromer of formula:

with v being a number from 5 to 700; the percentages by weight being calculated with respect to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection link, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid and poly type. alkyl (meth) acrylate and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting link, polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylate isobutyl type.

According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in the form of emulsions.

The polyorganosiloxanes that are particularly preferred according to the invention are: non-volatile silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C., such as the oils of the DC200 series of DOW CORNING, in particular that of viscosity 60 000 Cst, the SILBIONE 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the 70 047 V 500 000 oil marketed by the company RHONE POULENC, the polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups, such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as the oil SILBIONE 70641 V 200 sold by the company RHONE POULENC; mixtures of organopolysiloxanes and cyclic silicones such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning, and the product SF 1214 sold by the company General Electric;

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 mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, in particular a gum and an oil, such as the product SF 1236 marketed by the company General Electric; the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name Dow Corning 593; polysiloxanes containing amino groups, such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicone; The proteins or hydrolysates of quaternized proteins are in particular chemically modified polypeptides carrying at the end of the chain, or grafted onto it, quaternary ammonium groups. Their molecular weight may vary for example from 1500 to 10000, and in particular from 2000 to 5000 approximately. Among these compounds, there may be mentioned in particular: collagen hydrolysates bearing triethylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Quat-Pro E by the company MAYBROOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "Triethonium Hydrolyzed Collagen Ethosulfate"; collagen hydrolysates bearing trimethylammonium chloride and trimethylstearylammonium groups, sold under the name "Quat-Pro S" by the company MAYBROOOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen"; animal protein hydrolysates bearing trimethylbenzylammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name Crotein BTA by the company CRODA and referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein"; the protein hydrolysates carrying on the polypeptide chain quaternary ammonium groups comprising at least one alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among these protein hydrolysates, there may be mentioned, inter alia:

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 "Croquat L" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain a C12 alkyl group; "Croquat M" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain C10-C18 alkyl groups; "Croquat S" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain a C18 alkyl group; "Crotein Q" whose quaternary ammonium groups contain at least one alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These different products are sold by Croda.

dans laquelle X- est un anion d'un acide organique ou minéral, A désigne un reste de protéine dérivé d'hydrolysats de protéine de collagène, R5 désigne un groupement lipophile comportant jusqu'à 30 atomes de carbone, R6 représente un groupement alkylène ayant 1 à 6 atomes de carbone. On peut citer par exemple les produits vendus par la Société Inolex, sous la dénomination "Lexein QX 3000", appelé dans le dictionnaire CTFA "Cocotrimonium Collagent Hydrolysate". Other proteins or quaternized hydrolysates are, for example, those corresponding to the formula:

wherein X- is an anion of an organic or inorganic acid, A denotes a protein residue derived from collagen protein hydrolysates, R5 denotes a lipophilic group having up to 30 carbon atoms, R6 represents an alkylene group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of the products sold by the company Inolex under the name "Lexein QX 3000", referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "Cocotrimonium Collagent Hydrolysate".

Mention may also be made of quaternized vegetable proteins such as wheat, corn or soya proteins: as quaternized wheat proteins, mention may be made of those marketed by the company Croda under the names "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM", referred to in the dictionary CTFA "Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein", "Hydrotriticum QL" so called in the CTFA dictionary "Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat

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 protein ", or" Hydrotriticum QS ", called in the CTFA dictionary" Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein ".

According to the present invention, the ceramide-type compounds are in particular ceramides and / or glycoceramides and / or pseudoceramides and / or neoceramides, natural or synthetic.

Ceramide-type compounds are for example described in the patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736, WO95123807, WO94 / 07844, EP-A-0646572, WO95 / 16665, FR-2,673,179, EP-A-0227994 and WO 94/07844, WO94 / 24097, WO94 / 10131, the teachings of which are hereby incorporated by reference.

Particularly preferred ceramide compounds according to the invention are for example: 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] -aminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N -methyl-hexadecane-1,3-diol (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl) malonamide), - N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide cetyl acid.

 N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine or mixtures of these compounds.

It is also possible to use cationic surfactants among which may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

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It is of course possible to use mixtures of conditioning agents.

According to the invention, the conditioning agent (s) may represent from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The compositions of the invention advantageously also contain at least one surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between approximately 0.1% and 60% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferentially between 5%. and 30%, based on the total weight of the composition.

This surfactant may be chosen from anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

The surfactants which are suitable for the implementation of the present invention are notably the following: (i) Surfactant (s) Their nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have a truly critical character.

Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or coconut oil acid.

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 hydrogenated coconut; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 2) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the alkyl sulphate and alkyl ether sulfate salts and their mixtures.

 (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions ( Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178) and their nature does not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups that can range from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, the condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants that fall particularly well within the scope of the present invention.

 (iii) Amphoteric surfactant (s):

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 The amphoteric surface-active agents, the nature of which does not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature, may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl sulfobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. No. 2,528,378 and US Pat. No. 2,781,354, and of structures: ## STR2 ## (CH2COO-) (2) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from a R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R5-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2- COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH-SO3H R5 denotes an alkyl radical of an R9 -COOH acid present in the coconut oil or in the hydrolysed linseed oil, a alkyl radical, especially C7, Cg, C11 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE POULENC.

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In the compositions according to the invention, use is preferably made of surfactant mixtures and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably, an anionic surfactant chosen from sodium (C12-C14) alkyl sulphates, triethanolamine or ammonium alkyls, (C2-C14) alkyl ethersulfates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenated with 2,2 moles of ethylene oxide, cocoyl isethionate sodium and alphaolefin (C14-C16) sodium sulfonate and mixtures thereof with: - either an amphoteric surfactant such as amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in aqueous solution containing 38% active ingredient or under the name MIRANOL C32; or an amphoteric surfactant of zwitterionic type such as alkylbetaines, in particular cocobetaine sold under the name "Dehyton AB 30" in aqueous solution containing 32% of MA by Henkel.

The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, silicone or non-silicone sunscreens, vitamins, waxes other than ceramide-type compounds, polymers anionic or nonionic, non-cationic proteins, non-cationic protein hydrolysates, C16-C40 linear or branched chain fatty acids such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable oils, animal oils, and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise amount of each additive is readily determined by those skilled in the art according to its nature and function.

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The compositions in accordance with the invention may be used more particularly for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly the hair.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise a washing base, which is generally aqueous.

The surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base may be indifferently chosen, alone or in mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic and cationic surfactants as defined above.

The quantity and the quality of the washing base are those sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 4% to 50% by weight, preferably from 6% to 35% by weight, and still more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above, then optionally performing a rinsing with the water.

Thus, this method according to the invention allows the maintenance of the hairstyle, the treatment, care or washing or removing make-up of the skin, hair or any other keratin material.

The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of after-shampoo to be rinsed or not, compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed, to be applied before or after a coloration, a discoloration , a perm or a straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.

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The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, and in particular in the form of solutions or gels for bathing or showering or makeup removers.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or the hair.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a gel, a milk, a cream, an emulsion, a thickened lotion or a mousse and may be used for the skin, the nails, the eyelashes, the lips and more particularly the hair.

The compositions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump bottles or in aerosol containers in order to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in foam form. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a mousse for the treatment of the hair.

In all that follows or the above, the percentages expressed are by weight.

The invention will now be more fully illustrated by the following examples which can not be considered as limiting the described embodiments.

In the examples, MA means active ingredient.

In the examples, the trade names have the following definitions: MERQUAT 550 by CALGON: Copolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide in aqueous solution at 8% by weight of MA MERQUAT 100 from CALGON: Homopolymer of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in a 40% aqueous solution of MA JR 400 from UNION CARBIDE:

<Desc / Clms Page number 33>

 Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorohydrin and quaternized with triethanolamine LUVIQUAT FC 370 from BASF: Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazolium chloride in 40% aqueous solution MA Hexadimethrin chloride: Polycondensate tetramethylhexamethylenediamine / dichloro 1,3-propane in aqueous solution 60% MY CROQUAT WKP from CRODA: Hydrolyzate of wool keratin quaternized with N-cocoyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in 30% aqueous solution MA PERMETHYL 101 A PERMETHYL: 2,2,4,4,6,6,8- heptamethylnonane (polyisobutene) STOCKAUSEN W37194 POLYMER: Copolymer Acrylic Acid / Acrylamidopropyl Trimethylammonium Chloride in 20% aqueous solution of MA DC939 from DOW CORNIG: Amino Silicone (amodimethicone) in cationic emulsion at 35% MA TWEEN 20 from ICI: Monolaurate of sorbitan oxyethylenated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide EXAMPLE 1 Three compositions of lotion conditioner were produced, one conforming to the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Desc / Clms Page number 34>

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> MERQUAT <SEP> 550 <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
(MA = active ingredient) The procedure was then as follows: identical locks (2.5 g of discolored hair) were respectively treated (at the rate of 1 g of lotion per lock) with each of the lotions of the table above. then rinsed with water after 2 minutes of break.

The wet disentangling of the hair treated with these lotions was then compared using a sensory evaluation test. A panel of experts also assessed the softness of dried hair.

The purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 3 samples according to the ease of disentangling the damp hair and the softness of the dried hair. The 3 locks of the same series are presented simultaneously to the judge. It is asked to rank them from 1 (best disentangling or the softest) to 3 (less or less soft disentangling). The statistical analysis of the results is carried out using the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 -125 1963).

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 2 Three compositions of lotion conditioner, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C), were produced:

<Desc / Clms Page number 35>

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> MERQUAT <SEP> 100 <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 3 Three conditioner lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> JR <SEP> 400 <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with the composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioner) are disentangled

<Desc / Clms Page number 36>

 better and are milder than those treated with the other two compositions (B and C) each containing compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 4 Three conditioner lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C <SEP>
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> LUVIQUAT <SEP> FC <SEP> 370 <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 5 Three conditioner lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Desc / Clms Page number 37>

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C <SEP>
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> HEXADIMETHRIN <SEP> CHLORIDE <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> -
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 6 Three conditioner lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> DC <SEP> 939 <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with the composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioner) are disentangled

<Desc / Clms Page number 38>

 better and are milder than those treated with the other two compositions (B and C) each containing compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 7 Three lotion conditioner compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> W37194 <SEP> (Polymer <SEP> amphoteric) <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 8 Three conditioning lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Desc / Clms Page number 39>

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C <SEP>
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> Chloride <SEP> of <SEP> behenyl <SEP> trimethyl <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> MA <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA <SEP> ammonium
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION: All the judges indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangle better and are softer than those treated with the other two compositions ( B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 9 Three conditioner lotion compositions were prepared, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative compositions (compositions B and C):

<Tb>
<tb> A <SEP> B <SEP> C
<tb> Invention <SEP> Comparative <SEP> Comparative
<tb> - <SEP> PERMETHYL <SEP> 101 <SEP> A <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP>
<tb> (polyolefin)
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 1 <SEP> g <SEP> - <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> TWEEN <SEP> 20 <SEP> 4 <SEP> g <SEP> 4 <SEP> g <SEP> 4 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP> 100 <SEP> g <SEP>
<Tb>
The procedure was as in Example 1.

CONCLUSION:

<Desc / Clms Page number 40>

 All the judges indicate that the hair treated with the composition A according to the invention (containing the mixture of POLYDERM PPI-SA and the conditioning agent) disentangles better and is milder than those treated with the two other compositions (B and C) containing each of the compounds used alone.

EXAMPLE 10 A rinse-off conditioner composition according to the invention was prepared: trimethylbeneyl ammonium chloride 0.66 g MA-aminosilicone emulsion (DC 939 from Dow Corning) 0.66 g MA-POLYDERM PPI -SA 0.66 g - Water qs 100 g EXAMPLE 11 A rinse-off conditioner composition according to the invention was produced: - TWEEN 20 4 g - Amino silicone emulsion (DC 939 from Dow Corning) 0.5 MA-MERQUAT 550 0.5 g MA-PERMETHYL 101A 0.5 g POLYDERM PPI-SA 0.5 g-Water to 100 g EXAMPLE 12 A shampoo composition according to the invention was produced.

<Desc / Clms Page number 41>

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> Lauryl ether sulfate <SEP> from <SEP> sodium <SEP> to <SEP> 2.2 <SEP> oxide moles <SEP>
<tb> ethylene <SEP> 10 <SEP> gMA <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Cocoamphodiacetate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium
<tb> (MIRANOL <SEP> C2M <SEP> CONC <SEP> of <SEP> RHODIA <SEP> CHEMISTRY) <SEP> 4 <SEP> gMA
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 0.85 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Hydroxyethylcellulose <SEP> cross-linked <SEP> with <SEP> of <SEP> epichlorohydrin <SEP> and
<tb> quaternized <SEP> with <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> triethanolamine <SEP> (JR <SEP> 400 <SEP> of <SEP> UNION
<tb> CARBIDE) <SEP> 0.2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> monosulfosuccinate <SEP> from <SEP> monoethanolamide <SEP> ricinoleic,
<tb> salt <SEP> disodium <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA
<tb> - <SEP> Distearate <SEP> Ethylene Glycol <SEP> 1.5 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Monoisopropanolamide <SEP> of acids <SEP> of <SEP> copra <SEP> 1,5 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP><SEP> citric acid <SEP> qs <SEP> pH <SEP> 7
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>
EXAMPLE 13 A shampoo composition according to the invention was produced

<Tb>
<tb> - <SEP> Lauryl ether sulfate <SEP> from <SEP> sodium <SEP> to <SEP> 2.2 <SEP> oxide moles <SEP>
<tb> ethylene <SEP> 10 <SEP> gMA <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Cocoamphodiacetate <SEP> of <SEP> sodium
<tb> (MIRANOL <SEP> C2M <SEP> CONC <SEP> of <SEP> RHODIA <SEP> CHEMISTRY) <SEP> 4 <SEP> gMA
<tb> - <SEP> POLYDERM <SEP> PPI-SA <SEP> 0.85 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP> Polydimethylsiloxane <SEP> (MIRASIL <SEP> DM <SEP> 500 <SEP> 000 <SEP>)
<tb> RHODIA <SEP> CHEMISTRY) <SEP> 2 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Monosulfosuccinate <SEP> of <SEP> monoethanolamide
<tb> ricinoleic salt <SEP> disodium <SEP> 2 <SEP> gMA
<tb> - <SEP> Distearate <SEP> Ethylene Glycol <SEP> 1.5 <SEP> g
<tb> - <SEP> Monoisopropanolamide <SEP> of acids <SEP> of <SEP> copra <SEP> 1,5 <SEP> g <SEP>
<tb> - <SEP><SEP> citric acid <SEP> qs <SEP> pH <SEP> 7
<tb> - <SEP> Demineralized <SEP> water <SEP> qs <SEP> 100 <SEP> g
<Tb>

Claims (28)

 1. Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group and at least one conditioning agent chosen from polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, cationic or amphoteric polymers, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants. 2- Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group results from the reaction between an organic diisocyanate and an amine of formula (I) below:

 in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, x + y has an average value ranging from 2 to 15 and preferably from 2 to 8 and more particularly equal to 2. 3- Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that R is chosen from oleyl, linoleyl and linolenyl radicals and their mixtures. 4- Composition according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the amine of formula (I) is the product called PEG-2 Soyamine. 5- Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the organic diisocyanate is isophorone diisocyanate of formula:

<Desc / Clms Page number 43>  6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the reaction products are represented by the following formula (II):

 in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, x + y has an average value ranging from 2 to 15 and preferably from 2 to 8 and more particularly equal to 2, n varies from 1 at 5.

X denotes the divalent radical of formula (III) below:  7- Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that n is equal to 1, 2 or 3. 8- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil comprising at least one amine group and at least one urethane group is a mixture of compounds of formula (II). 9- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyolefins are of polybutene type, hydrogenated or not, or of polydecene type, hydrogenated or not. 10- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units having primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that can be part of the chain. main polymer, to be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto. <Desc / Clms Page number 44> 11- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said cationic polymer is selected from quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, cationic cyclopolymers, cationic polysaccharides, vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole quaternary polymers. and their mixtures. 12- Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that said cyclopolymer is chosen from homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide. 13- Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that said quaternary cellulose ether derivatives are chosen from hydroxyethylcelluloses having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. 14- Composition according to claim 11, characterized in that said cationic polysaccharides are chosen from guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium salt. 15- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition and are in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. 16. Composition according to claim 15, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof. 17- Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that: (a) the polyalkylsiloxanes are chosen from: - polydimethylsiloxanes trimethylsilyl end groups; polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups; polyalkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes; <Desc / Clms Page number 45>  (b) the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen from: - polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyldiphenyl siloxanes with a viscosity of between 1.10-5 and 5.10-2m2 / s at 25 ° C; (c) the silicone gums are selected from polydiorganosiloxanes having number average molecular weights between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent; (d) the resins are chosen from resins consisting of: R3 SiO1 / 2, R2 SiO212, R SiO3 / 2, SiO412 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group; (e) the organo-modified silicones are chosen from silicones comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon radical. 18- Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that the silicone gums used alone or in the form of a mixture are chosen from the following structures: polydimethylsiloxane-polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxanes and the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane; mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone; and mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes of different viscosities. 19- Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the organomodified silicones are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes comprising: a) polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups; <Desc / Clms Page number 46>  wherein: R4 is methyl, phenyl, -OCORs, hydroxyl, only one of R4 per silicon atom may be OH; R'4 is methyl, phenyl; at least 60 mol% of all the radicals R4 and R'4 denoting methyl; R5 is C8-C20 alkyl or alkenyl; R "denotes a linear or branched C2-C18 divalent hydrocarbon alkylene radical, r is between 1 and 120 inclusive, p is between 1 and 30, q is 0 or less than 0.5 p, p + q being between 1 and 30, the polyorganosiloxanes of formula (VI) may contain groups;

 in which the radicals R3 which are identical or different are chosen from methyl and phenyl radicals, at least 60 mol% of the radicals R3 representing methyl; the radical R '3 is a C2-C18 hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain; p is between 1 and 30 inclusive; q is from 1 to 150 inclusive; f) acyloxyalkyl groups corresponding to the following formula:

 b) substituted or unsubstituted amino groups; (c) thiol groups; d) alkoxylated groups; e) hydroxyalkyl groups having the following formula: <Desc / Clms Page number 47>  in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum p + q + r; g) alkyl carboxylic groups, h) 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate groups, i) 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphonate groups, j) hydroxyacylamino groups.

20- Composition according to any one of claims 15 to 19, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes trimethylsilyl end groups, polyalkylsiloxanes end groups dimethylsilanol, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mixtures of two PDMS consisting of gum and an oil of different viscosities, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic silicones, organopolysiloxane resins. 21- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01%. and 10% by weight. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil containing an amine function and a urethane function is present at a concentration of between 0.05% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight. 23- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof. 24- Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration of between 0.1% and 60% by weight, of <Desc / Clms Page number 48>  preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 25- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, conditioner, composition for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching hair, rinse composition to be applied between the two steps of a permanent or straightening, washing composition for the body. 26. Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims for washing or for the care of keratin materials. 27- Process for treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 25, then optionally to perform a rinsing with water. 28- Use of an oil as defined in one of claims 1 to 8 in, or for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition comprising a conditioning agent selected from polyolefins, silicones, mineral oils, polymers cationic or amphoteric proteins, cationic proteins, cationic protein hydrolysates, ceramide-type compounds and cationic surfactants.