WO2024089068A1

WO2024089068A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising an alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant

Info

Publication number: WO2024089068A1
Application number: PCT/EP2023/079713
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sophie Bourel; Adrien BENAZZOUZ
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2022-10-28
Filing date: 2023-10-25
Publication date: 2024-05-02
Also published as: FR3141343A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alpha,omega-bis-amino silicone, an additional amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising an alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone, an amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone, an additional amino silicone, an anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres.

Keratin fibres, notably the hair, have a tendency to lose some of their qualities due to the action of various factors such as for example natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity. The visual appearance and the feel of the fibres may be degraded thereby. Regreasing, for example, makes the fibres lank, which then have a tendency to clump together. The hair may then be more difficult to style, and have an unpleasant greasy sheen and/or waxy feel.

It is common practice to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos based essentially on surfactants, for washing keratin fibres, such as the hair. These compositions are generally applied to the keratin fibres, which are preferably wet, and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washing mitt makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair.

Repeated use of such compositions may damage keratin fibres. In particular, the hair may lose its suppleness and have a less smooth feel; it is also more difficult to disentangle.

In point of fact, consumers are looking for shampoo compositions that have good detergent power while having improved cosmetic and conditioning properties. They are also looking for shampoo compositions that have an improved environmental profile while retaining very good cosmetic and conditioning properties.

It has now been discovered that a composition comprising a particular combination of amino silicones in the presence of anionic and amphoteric surfactants makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above, in particular as regards ease of disentangling, suppleness, smoothness to the touch, coating, softness, sheen, strand individualization and lightness. A subject of the present invention is therefore a composition comprising: i) one or more anionic surfactants, ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, iii) one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones, and iv) one or more amino silicones different from the silicones iii), the total silicone content being less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The particular combination of the above compounds makes it possible to obtain a composition exhibiting good detergent power while at the same time giving the hair good cosmetic and conditioning properties with a reduced content of silicone(s).

In fact, the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to facilitate the disentangling of the hair, while providing a smooth and homogeneous feel, from the root to the ends, and also a sensation of coating and of treated hair.

In addition, the composition has good use properties, in particular good rinsability.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the application of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The present invention also relates to the use of said composition for washing keratin fibres.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example that follows.

In that which will follow and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “of between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

Moreover, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Throughout the text hereinbelow, the term “silicone” denotes, in accordance with what is generally accepted, any organosilicon polymer or oligomer of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and constituted essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), optionally substituted hydrocarbon groups being directly bonded via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon groups are alkyl groups, notably Ci-Cio alkyl groups and in particular methyl, fluoroalkyl groups, the alkyl part of which is Ci-Cio, and aryl groups such as in particular phenyl groups.

In a manner known per se, the viscosity of the silicones, which is the kinematic viscosity, is measured at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm, 1.013xl0⁵ Pa) in accordance with standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

The weight- average molecular masses of the silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25 °C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 pl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is carried out with a refractometer and a UV meter.

( i) Anionic surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants i).

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.

It is understood in the present description that:

- the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO"), and do not comprise a sulfate function and/or a sulfonate function;

- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (- SO3H or -SO3 ) and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not comprise any sulfate functions; and

- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function and may optionally comprise one or more carboxylate or sulfonate functions. The carboxylate anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).

They may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3o aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly poly oxy ethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Use may also be made of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.

Preferentially, the carboxylate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoyl glutamate;

- acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C30 or even C12-C20 acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate and sodium lauroyl sarcosinate;

- acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28 or even C14-C24 acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylglycinates;

- (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those including from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of surfactants of fatty acid type, notably of C6-C30. These surfactants are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (a) below: R-C(O)-OX (a) with

- X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or an ion resulting from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and

- R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group of 7 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably of 11 to 21 carbon atoms.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of surfactants of sarcosinate type, notably chosen from (C6-C3o)acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) below:

R-C(O)-N(CH₃)-CH₂-C(O)-OX (I) with

- X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and

- R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group of 5 to 29 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Among the (C6-C3o)acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, myristoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, in acid form or in salified form.

The anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, stearoylsarcosine, myristoylsarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoylsarcosine, myristoylsarcosine, and mixtures thereof.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by Kao under the Akypo names.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids capable of being used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):

Rl-(OC₂H₄)n-OCH₂COOA (II) in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (Cs- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, R1 is a C8-C20 and preferably Cs-Cis alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

- n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (II), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups Rl.

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (II) in which:

- Rl denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (II) in which Rl denotes a C12 alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3 ).

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, particularly poly oxy ethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfoacetates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 N-acyl taurates;

- (Ce-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (Ci2-Cis)acyl isethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of sulfonate type are chosen from alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates and alkyl sulfoacetates, and also salts thereof and mixtures thereof.

The sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3').

They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl poly ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

- alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C24 or even C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.

Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-l,3-diol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Preferentially, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates; notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 alkyl sulfoacetates ;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 N-acyl taurates;

- (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Cis)acylisethionates;

C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; notably palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates and myristoylsarcosinates;

- (Ce-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates;

- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylglutamates;

- C6-C24 and notably C12-C20 acylglycinates;

- and also salts thereof, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal or zinc, ammonium or amino alcohol salts thereof;

- and mixtures thereof.

The anionic surfactant(s) i) are preferably chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants, carboxylate anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferentially from C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, C6-C24 alkyl sulfoacetates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfoacetates, Ce- C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, (Ce-C24)acyl sarcosinates, especially (C12- C2o)acyl sarcosinates; the ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) preferably ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants, sulfate anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulfonate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) chosen from carboxylate anionic surfactants ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants ii).

In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may notably be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain including from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylbetaines and (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(Ci-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (III) and (IV) below:

R_a-CONHCH2CH2-N⁺(Rb)(Rc)-CH₂COO-.M⁺.X- (III) in which formula (III):

- R_a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH which is preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut kernel oil; preferably, R_a represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group;

- R_c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M⁺ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

- X" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylaryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M⁺ and X" are absent;

R_a’-CONHCH₂CH2-N(B)(B’) (IV) in which formula (IV):

- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’ ;

- B’ represents the group -(CH2)_ZY’, with z = 1 or 2;

- X’ represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;

- Y’ represents the group -COOH, -COOZ’ or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH₂CH(OH)SO₃-Z’;

- Z’ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; - R_a' represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a'-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or copra oil; preferably, R_a' is an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

Use may also be made of compounds of formula (V):

R_a”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)_nCONH(CH₂)_n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V) in which formula (V):

- Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ” or -CH₂-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH₂CH(OH)SO₃-Z”;

- Rd and R_e, independently of one another, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z” represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

- R_a" represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R_a"-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or copra oil; and

- n and n’ denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (V), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is advantageously made of (Cs-C₂o)alkylbetaines, such as cocoyl betaine, (Cs- C₂o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, (Cs- C₂o)alkylamphoacetates, (Cs-C₂o)alkylamphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; and preferably (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-Cs)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) are chosen from (Cs-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylarnido(C3-Cs)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, preferentially from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.

The total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 12% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hi) Alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones iii), i.e. silicones comprising amine end groups; this means that the groups at the end of the chain (the end groups in the alpha and omega positions) comprise an amine group.

The amine group may be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine and also a quaternary ammonium.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:

- the R radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl group;

- the radicals Rl, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl group or a Ci-Ce aminoalkyl group;

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and - n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000.

Preferably, the radicals R are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

Preferably, Rl, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure - (C_aH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x=3.

Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y=3.

Preferably, x=y.

Preferably, n is such that the weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10000 and 150000, or even between 15 000 and 100 000.

More preferentially, the amino silicone corresponds to formula (I) in which the R radicals represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

The total content of the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) iii) preferably ranges from 0.05 % to 1.4% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the total content of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone ranges from 0.05% to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. iv) Amino silicones different from the silicones iii)

The cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amino silicones iv) different from the silicones iii).

The term “amino silicone” denotes any silicone including at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight-average molecular masses of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25 °C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 pl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is carried out with a refractometer and a UV meter.

Suitable amino silicones iv) which may be used in accordance with the present invention include, without being limited thereto, volatile and non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched amino silicones having a viscosity ranging from 5xl0'⁶ to 2.5 m²/s at 25 °C, for example from IxlO'⁵ to 1 m²/s.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from: a) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (IV):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000; b) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (V), different from the silicones iii):

R'_aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a' (V) in which:

- G, which is identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy;

- a and a', which may be identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, with the proviso that at least one from among a and a' is equal to zero,

- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10; - R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqthqL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

• -NR"-Q-N(R")2,

• -N(R")2,

• -N⁺(R")3 A-,

• -N⁺H(R")2 A-,

• -N⁺H₂(R") A-,

• -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")H₂ A’,

• -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")₂H A- and

• -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")₃ A’, in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C_rH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide;

The amino silicones corresponding to formula (V), different from the silicones iii), may advantageously be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

(A) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (VI):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.

(B) the amino silicones of formula (VII) below:

(VII) in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and particularly from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

- Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical;

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.

(C) the amino silicones of formula (VIII) below:

(VIII) in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

- R i and R2 , which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C 1 -C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical;

Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxyl/alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000, more preferentially from 5000 to 100000 and in particular from 10000 to 50 000.

The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (VII) or (VIII) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones, the structure of which is different from formula (VII) or (VIII).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (VII) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (VIII) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing amino silicones of structure (VIII) is sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, one particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil- in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature but are preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number- average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (VIII), use is made of microemulsions of which the mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the microemulsions of amino silicone of formula (VIII) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by Wacker.

(D) the amino silicones of formula (IX) below:

(IX) in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, the Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Coming (INCI name: amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).

(E) the amino silicones of formula (X) below:

(X) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 1000 to 200000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Coming; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI):

in which:

- Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, particularly a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;

- Q" is an anion such as a halide ion, particularly chloride, or an organic acid salt, particularly acetate;

- r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50;

Such amino silicones are particularly described in patent US 4 185 087; d) the amino- silicones of formula (XIII):

(XIII) in which:

- Ri , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; e) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)_n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:

[-(SiMe₂O)_xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H4O)_a(C3H₆O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or alternatively

[-(SiMe2O)_xSiMe2-R-N(R")-R'-O(C2H₄O)_a(C3H₆O)b-] in which:

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R denote a CH₂CH2CH2OCH₂CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', which may be identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially, R' denote -CH(CH₃)-CH₂-.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000 000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200 000.

Mention may particularly be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

(f) amino silicones of formulae (XIV) and (XV):

in which:

- R, R' and R'", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

- m and n are numbers such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500 000;

in which:

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferentially 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched.

Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups:

-CH2CH2CH2- and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH2-.

Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferentially, RI and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XV) with:

- x ranges from 10 to 2000 and in particular from 100 to 1000;

- y ranges from 1 to 100;

- A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and particularly 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH₂CH(CH₃)CH2-; and

- Ri and R2 independently are saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; particularly chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferentially, Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A silicone of formula (XV) that is preferred is bis-cetearyl amodimethicone. Mention may be made in particular of the amino silicone sold under the name Silsoft AX by Momentive; g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains, such as those of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XVIII):

(XVIII)

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 1000 and 55 000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), mention may be made of the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS- 191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin-Etsu. In formula (XVII), the value of n is such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 3000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVII), mention may be made of the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by Gelest.

In formula (XVIII), the values of n and m are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the amino silicone is between 500 and 50000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVIII), mention may be made of the aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Coming. h) and mixtures thereof.

In one particularly preferred manner, the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V), even more preferentially from those corresponding to one of formulae (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and/or (X), and even more preferably the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from amodimethicones.

The total content of the amino silicone(s) iv) different from silicones iii) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 1.4% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In one preferred embodiment, the total content of amodimethicone(s) preferably ranges from 0.05% to 1.4% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the present invention, the total content of silicones (including the silicones (iii) and (iv) and also the optional silicones, in particular non-amino silicones, optionally present in the composition) is less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total silicone content is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 1.1% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of amino silicones iii) and iv) is less than or equal to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the total content of amino silicones iii) and iv) is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferentially less than or equal to 1.1% by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of alpha, omega-bis- amino silicones iii) and the total content of amino silicones iv) ranges from 0.2 to 5, preferentially from 0.3 to 3, more preferentially from 0.4 to 2. In one particular embodiment, it is strictly less than 1; it ranges in particular from 0.1 to 0.99, better still from 0.15 to 0.8, or even from 0.2 to 0.6.

Preferably, the weight ratio between the total content of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone and the total content of amino silicones iv) chosen from amodimethicones preferably ranges from 0.2 to 5, preferentially from 0.3 to 3, more preferentially from 0.4 to 2. In one particular embodiment, it is strictly less than 1; it ranges in particular from 0.1 to 0.99, better still from 0.15 to 0.8, or even from 0.2 to 0.6.

(v) Additional silicones different from the alpha, omega-bis -amino silicones iii) and from the amino silicones iv)

The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional silicones v) different from the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones iii) and from the amino silicones iv).

The additional silicone(s) v) therefore do not comprise any primary, secondary or tertiary amine groups or any quaternary ammonium groups.

The additional silicones that can be used in the invention may be solid or liquid and volatile or non-volatile; they are preferably liquid and non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile silicone" is understood to mean a silicone which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the hair in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Such a silicone has in particular a saturation vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 to 40000 Pa (10‘³ to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile silicone" is understood to mean a silicone having a saturation vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).

The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils are preferred. Silicones are particularly described in detail in Walter Noll’s “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press.

The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from: i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as

- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;

- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:

Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by Union Carbide.

- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of 1,1’- oxy(2, 2, 2’, 2’, 3, 3’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy )bisneopentane; ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0‘⁶ m²/s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32 - Todd & Byers Volatile silicone fluids for cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made of, alone or as a mixture, polydialkylsiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), poly diarylsiloxanes, poly alkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or 1 more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, particularly polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes .

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:

- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and in particular those sold by Dow Coming under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from Union Carbide; or alternatively (Ci2)alkylmethicone copolyols, and in particular those sold by Dow Coming under the name Q2-5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt;

- hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;

- acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4 957 732;

- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186 507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from Shin- Etsu; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255;

- hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342 834; mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2- 8413 from Dow Corning.

The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:

- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;

- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm²/s;

- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by Goldschmidt, which are poly (C 1 -C20)dialkylsiloxanes .

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO'⁵ to 5xl0'² m²/s at 25°C.

Among these poly alkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:

- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PNIOOO and PH1000;

- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Preferably, the additional silicone(s) v) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, more preferentially from linear (i.e. non-cyclic) polydimethylsiloxanes, even better still linear polydimethylsiloxanes that are liquid at 25°C.

More preferentially, the additional silicone(s) v) are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes, which are preferably linear, having a viscosity at 25°C of less than or equal to 1 m²/s (1.10⁶ cSt), in particular of between 2. IO"⁴ m²/s (200 cSt) and 0.5 m²/s (500 000 cSt). When they are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the additional silicone(s) v), which are different from the alpha, omega-bis- amino silicones iii) and from the amino silicones iv), preferably ranges from 0.01 to 1.4% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more poly dimethylsiloxanes, in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous, it being possible for the water content to range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 98% by weight, and preferentially from 80% to 97% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic or non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, waxes, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, non-silicone fatty substances, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preserving agents and fillers.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The above additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process and use The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least the application of the composition as defined above.

Another subject of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Examples

In the examples which follow, all the amounts are shown as percentage by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise indicated).

Example 1

Compositions Al (according to the invention) and Bl (comparative) were prepared from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the tables below (% AM):

[Table 1]

• Ease of disentangling performance by instrumental evaluation

The ease of disentangling the hair after application of compositions Al and Bl is evaluated by an instrumental cosmetic evaluation by measuring the frictional forces of a lock of hair previously entangled, as it moves, at constant speed, through a metal comb.

The lower the force required to pass the lock through the teeth of the comb, the easier the disentangling.

Compositions Al and Bl are applied according to the following protocol: each of Compositions Al and Bl is applied, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of locks, to locks which have undergone a bleaching treatment; massaging and foaming is carried out; the composition is left on for 1 minute and then the lock is rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 3001/h, temperature = 35°C).

The friction forces of Compositions Al and Bl on wet hair are measured. These measurements are expressed in mJ. The measurement is repeated on 5 different locks.

The results are presented in the table below (means):

[Table 2]

Composition Al according to the invention, comprising a combination of an alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6%, makes it possible to obtain a significantly better level of disentangling than Composition Bl with a total concentration of alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

• Sensory cosmetic performance

Two experts evaluate the sensory performance, on wet hair and dried hair, of Compositions Al and Bl on locks sensitized by a bleaching treatment.

Compositions Al and Bl are applied according to the following protocol: each of Compositions Al and Bl is applied, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of locks, to locks which have undergone a bleaching treatment; massaging and foaming is carried out; the composition is left on for 1 minute and then the lock is rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 1/h, temperature = 35°C). The lock is then dried with a hair dryer.

The experts evaluate the sensory cosmetic performances of Compositions Al and Bl on wet hair, in relation to the criteria of ease of disentangling, smoothness to the touch and coating, and on dried hair, in relation to the criteria of smoothness to the touch and coating.

These evaluations are scored on a scale from 0 to 5, with 0 representing the lowest score and 5 representing the highest score.

Evaluation of the ease of disentangling: the disentangling is evaluated using a comb that the expert slides from the root to the end. The more easily the comb slides, the easier and therefore the better the disentangling.

Evaluation of the smooth feel: the expert takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it through the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more the hair is uniform, homogeneous from the root to the end, the fewer bumps it exhibits, the less it catches on the fingers, the better the smooth feel.

Evaluation of the coating: the expert takes the lock of hair in the hand, starts from the root and slides as far as the ends. The more a deposit is felt on the fibre, the better the coating.

The results are given in the table below:

[Table 3]

Composition Al according to the invention, comprising a combination of an alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6%, makes it possible to obtain better sensory cosmetic performances, both on wet hair and on dry hair, than Composition Bl with a total concentration of alpha, omega- bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

Example 2 Compositions A2 (according to the invention) and B2 (comparative) were prepared from ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the tables below (% AM):

[Table 4]

• Sensory cosmetic performance

Two experts evaluate the sensory performance, on wet hair, of Compositions A2 and B2 on locks sensitized by a bleaching treatment.

Compositions A2 and B2 are applied according to the following protocol: each of Compositions A2 and B2 is applied, in a proportion of 0.4 g of composition per g of locks, to locks which have undergone a bleaching treatment; massaging and foaming is carried out; the composition is left on for 1 minute and then the lock is rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 1/h, temperature = 35°C).

The experts evaluate the sensory cosmetic performance of Compositions A2 and B2 on wet hair, in relation to the criteria of ease of disentangling and coating.

These evaluations are scored from 0 to 5, with 0 representing the lowest score and 5 representing the highest score.

The results are given in the table below:

[Table 5]

Composition A2 according to the invention, comprising a combination of an alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone and an amodimethicone at a silicone concentration of 0.6%, makes it possible to obtain better sensory cosmetic performances, in particular in terms of disentangling and of coating, than Composition B2 with a total concentration of alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone and amodimethicone equal to 1.7%.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more anionic surfactants, ii) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, iii) one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones, and iv) one or more amino silicones different from the silicones iii), the total silicone content being less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) i) are chosen from sulfate anionic surfactants, sulfonate anionic surfactants, anionic surfactants of carboxylate type and mixtures thereof, preferably from C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfosuccinates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfo succinates, C6-C24 alkyl sulfoacetates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfoacetates, C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, (Ce-C24)acyl sarcosinates, especially (C12-C20 )acyl sarcosinates; the ethers preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) i) ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 20% by weight, better still from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(C3-Cs)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof, preferably from (Cs-C2o)alkylamido(C3-Cs)alkylbetaines and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ii) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 12% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) iii) are chosen from the silicones corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

- n is such that the weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000.

7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) iii) are chosen from the silicones corresponding to formula (I) in which the R radicals represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and Rl, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) iii) ranges from 0.05% to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from: a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (IV):

(IV) in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight- average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol; b) the amino silicones different from the silicones iii) corresponding to formula (V):

R’_aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a' (V) in which:

- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and especially from 1 to 10;

- R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -C_qH2_qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

• -NR"-Q-N(R")₂,

• -N(R")2,

• -N⁺(R")3 A-,

• -N⁺H(R")2 A-,

• -N⁺H₂(R") A-, • -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")H₂ A’,

• -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")₂H A- and

• -NR"-Q-N⁺(R")₃ A’, in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a Ci-C₂o alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C_rH_2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; c) the amino silicones corresponding to formula (XI):

in which:

- Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C₂-Cis alkenyl radical, for example methyl;

- r represente une valeur statistique moyenne allant de 2 a 20, en particulier de 2 a 8 ;

- s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50; d) the amino- silicones of formula (XIII):

(XIII) in which:

- Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq/g; e) the multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB)_n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block including at least one amine group; f) the amino silicones of formulae (XIV) and (XV):

in which:

- A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and

- m and n are numbers such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000;

in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to 2000 and more preferentially from 100 to 1000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms; g) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at only one chain end or on side chains; h) and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (V) and preferably from those corresponding to one of formulae (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX) and/or (X) below:

(A) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula

(VI):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10;

(B) the amino silicones of formula (VII) below:

in which:

- Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical; (C) the amino silicones of formula (VIII) below:

in which:

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, particularly from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, particularly from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; and

- Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical; (D) the amino silicones of formula (IX) below:

in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from

49 to 149, and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms;

(E) the amino silicones of formula (X) below:

(X) in which:

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and particularly from 49 to 149, and m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and particularly from 1 to 10; and

- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; and more preferably, the amino silicone(s) iv) are chosen from amodimethicones .

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the amino silicone(s) iv) ranges from 0.05% to 1.4% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total silicone content is less than or equal to 1.2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1.1 % by weight, more preferentially less than or equal to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

14. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 12, for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.