FR3139007A1 - COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENTS OF KERATINOUS SUBSTANCE - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENTS OF KERATINOUS SUBSTANCE The present invention relates to a composition, comprising: (a) at least one active skin care agent; (b) at least one water-soluble acid; (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment; (d) at least one polyol; and (e) water, wherein the amount of the (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, and the amount of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may include hydrophobic pigments with uniform dispersion thereof and an active skin care agent without precipitation thereof. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION SUITABLE FOR COSMETIC TREATMENTS OF KERATINOUS SUBSTANCE

The present invention relates to a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as the skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, intended to deliver the composition in the keratinous substance.

CONTEXT OF ART

For cosmetic purposes, the surface of the skin or lips is often colored or tinted. For example, cosmetic makeup products such as foundation and lipstick are widely used to color or dye the skin, especially facial skin and lips. Coloring or dyeing by cosmetic makeup products is temporary and can be easily removed from the skin and the like with, for example, cleansing products. Thus, users of cosmetic makeup products need to color their skin and/or lips daily.

One of the possible options to achieve long-lasting coloring effects on the skin or lips is to apply coloring agents inside the skin or lips.

However, local application of a formulation containing coloring agents does not allow sufficient penetration of the coloring agents into the skin or lips. A thin layer of stratum corneum of the skin or lips poses a major obstacle for substances to penetrate the skin or lips. Therefore, the most important point to deliver coloring agents inside the skin or lips is to pass through the stratum corneum.

The use of single needle devices, known as tattoo devices, is well known for the deep delivery of coloring materials into the skin. Document US-B-9393395 is an example of such devices. These devices are used by experts, known as tattoo artists, carefully because a single needle oscillates or vibrates at high frequency, and it takes skill and time to create the right tattoo design using 'a single needle.

Document 2021/125067 discloses the use of a microneedle array for the delivery of coloring agents into the superficial layer of the skin for long-lasting coloring of the skin. A water-soluble dye is used as a coloring agent. Thus, in document WO 2021/125067, a composition comprising a water-soluble dye is used in combination with a network of microneedles.

On the other hand, active skin care agents are often applied to the skin surface. It is best for active skin care agents to penetrate the skin to ensure cosmetic effects on the skin. However, it is difficult for active skin care agents to penetrate the skin due to the barrier effects of the skin's stratum corneum.

Document 2019/230990 discloses the use of a microneedle array with microneedles comprising C-glycoside, which can act as an active skin care agent to enhance skin penetration of C-glycoside .

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

It is important that coloring agents, which penetrate a keratinous substance such as the skin for cosmetic purposes, are uniformly dispersed in the keratinous substance, in terms of aesthetic cosmetic effects. For example, if hydrophobic pigments are used as coloring agents, uniform dispersion of the hydrophobic pigments in a keratinous substance is preferable. Therefore, in this case, using a composition that uniformly includes hydrophobic pigments is preferable.

On the other hand, to have hybrid cosmetic effects of coloring and care of the skin, it is possible to consider the use of a composition which includes not only coloring agents such as hydrophobic pigments, but also active agents skin care.

If an active skin care agent is included in a composition, it is preferable that the composition includes water to dissolve the active skin care agent. Without water, the active skin care agent may not dissolve sufficiently in the composition and may precipitate, for example, in the form of crystals.

However, if a skin care active agent is included with hydrophobic pigments in the same composition, it is difficult to increase the amount of water in the composition because more water may negatively affect the uniform dispersion of the pigments. hydrophobic pigments in the composition.

The present invention aims to provide a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as the skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles , wherein the composition may include at least one uniformly dispersed hydrophobic pigment and at least one active skin care agent without the precipitation thereof.

The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one active skin care agent;

(b) at least one water-soluble acid;

(c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

(d) at least one polyol;

(e) water,

in which

the amount of the (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The active skin care agent may be water soluble, preferably chosen from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture thereof.

The amount of active skin care agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) water-soluble acid can be chosen from organic acids, preferably hydroxy acids, and more preferably lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and a mixture of these.

The quantity of the water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4%. by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) hydrophobic pigment may have at least one hydrophobic coating; preferably chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides and mixtures thereof, with at least one hydrophobic coating; and more preferably chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides treated with monoalkyl tri-acyl titanate and their mixtures.

The quantity of the hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 10 % to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) polyol may be chosen from diols, preferably alkylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to less than 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil, preferably chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps:

application on the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; And

application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

The device used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be or comprise a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating into the keratinous substance, thus delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a kit for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

the composition according to the present invention; And

at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

The device in the kit according to the present invention may be or comprise a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating the substance keratinous substance, thus delivering the composition into a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips, in order to offer the keratinous substance uniform coloring and skin care effects.

There shows a schematic view of a device which is preferably used for the present invention.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition suitable for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, preferably with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, wherein the composition may include at least one uniformly dispersed hydrophobic pigment and at least one non-precipitating skin care active agent.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention can uniformly include at least one hydrophobic pigment as well as at least one active skin care agent.

The uniform dispersion of hydrophobic pigments in the composition according to the present invention can provide uniform coloring effects. The “uniform” dispersion of hydrophobic pigments here means that the hydrophobic pigments do not aggregate to form aggregations.

The composition according to the present invention can provide long-lasting coloring effects when used in combination with a device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance.

The composition according to the present invention can also provide uniform skin care effects, because the active skin care agent(s) can be dissolved in the composition without any precipitation, which reflects the uniform distribution of the active agent. skin care in the composition.

Thus, the present invention can provide a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with uniform coloring and care effects.

The present invention can also provide a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with long-lasting coloring effects and/or enhanced skin care effects such as enhanced whitening effects.

One aspect of the present invention is a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

(a) at least one active skin care agent;

(b) at least one water-soluble acid;

(c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

(d) at least one polyol;

(e) water,

in which

the amount of the (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps:

application on the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; And

application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

Another aspect of the present invention is a kit for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

the composition according to the present invention; And

at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

The other aspect of the present invention is a use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips, in order to offer to the keratinous substance uniform coloring and skin care effects.

According to certain aspects of the present invention, a composition according to the present invention is used in combination with a device, such as a microneedle sheet comprising a plurality of microneedles, to deliver the composition into a keratinous substance. The device can deliver the composition according to the present invention in a surface layer of a keratinous substance.

In a preferred embodiment, the microneedles of the microneedle sheet can puncture the surface of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips to create fine holes or passages through which the composition according to the present invention comprising at least one active skin care agent and at least one hydrophobic pigment, can pass into the skin or lips. Thus, the active skin care agent and the hydrophobic pigments can penetrate the skin or lips through the holes or fine passages so that they can pass through the stratum corneum and/or reach the bottom of the stratum corneum. cornea. Furthermore, the active skin care agent and the hydrophobic pigment can pass through the stratum corneum to one of the lower layers of the epidermis, such as a granular layer, a spiny layer, and a basal layer. .

The hydrophobic pigment can remain in a keratinous substance such as skin and lips for a long time. This could produce long-lasting coloring effects.

On the other hand, the active skin care agent can provide enhanced skin care effects, such as better whitening effects, because it can directly reach the skin without the barrier of the stratum corneum.

Since microneedles do not cause pain, the cosmetic process and kit according to the present invention can provide painless cosmetic treatments.

Furthermore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be carried out in a relatively short time.

Thus, the present invention is convenient for cosmetic or non-therapeutic treatments. For example, the present invention can be used as a non-invasive way to hide skin imperfections such as dark spots and pores for a long time, such as a few days to a few weeks.

Hereinafter, the composition, cosmetic process, use and the like according to the present invention will be described in detail.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one active skin care agent;

(b) at least one water-soluble acid;

(c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;

(d) at least one polyol;

(e) water,

in which

the amount of the (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can be used as a pretreatment composition for a keratinous substance, before applying to the keratinous substance a device, such as a microneedling device, to deliver the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance, as under the stratum corneum of the skin.

Thus, the first aspect of the present invention may be a composition for use in cosmetic treatments using a device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance, for example, by applying the device to the surface layer of the keratinous substance.

It is preferable that the composition to be used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention is in the form of a liquid at room temperature (for example, 25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), which has a viscosity less than 1000 cP, preferably less than 500 cP, and more preferably less than 200 cP.

(Active skin care agent)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one active skin care agent. Only one type of (a) active skin care agent may be used, but two or more different types of (a) active skin care agents may be used in combination.

It is preferable that the (a) active skin care agent has a logP value between -4.5 and 4.5, preferably between -4.0 and 4.0, and more preferably between -3.5 and 3.5. It may be preferable for the log P value of (a) active skin care agent to be between -1.0 and 1.0, and more preferably between -0.5 and 0.5.

A log P value is a value of the base ten logarithm of the apparent octan-1-ol/water partition coefficient. Log P values are known and are determined by a typical test that determines the concentration of a compound in question in octan-1-ol and water. The log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients , J. Pharm. Sci., 84:83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages, which determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. As an example, mention can be made of the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency.

The values can in particular be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) software Solaris V4.67; they can also be obtained from QSAR Exploration: Hydrophobic, Electronic, and Sterile Constants (ACS Professional Reference Book, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values (address: http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm).

The (a) active skin care agent may be in the form of a salt. The salts of (a) active skin care agent include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base.

It is preferable that the (a) active skin care agent is water soluble and, preferably, has a water solubility of 0.1 g/mL or more, particularly 0.5 g/mL. mL or more, at a pH of 7 to 25°C.

It is preferable to choose the (a) active skin care agent from anti-aging agents such as anti-wrinkle agents; depigmenting agents such as whitening agents; and their mixtures.

As (a) active skin care agent, vitamin B3 and its derivatives can be mentioned.

Vitamin B3, also called vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula:

in which R can be -CONH ₂ (niacinamide), -COOH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH ₂ OH (nicotinyl alcohol), -CO-NH-CH ₂ -COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferable.

Vitamin B3 derivatives which may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH ₂ , reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

The following derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N -ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

Other derivatives of vitamin B3 which may also be mentioned include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

As (a) active skin care agent, mention may also be made of tranexamic acid and its derivatives.

As examples of tranexamic acid derivatives, mention may be made of tranexamic acid dimers (such as trans-4-(trans-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyl)aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid), esters of tranexamic acid and hydroquinone (such as 4'-hydroxyphenyl trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylate), esters of tranexamic acid and gentisic acid (such as 2-(trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyloxy)-5- acid hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts), tranexamic amides (such as trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid methylamide and its salts, and trans-4-(p-methoxymethylmethylmethylcyclohexane carboxylic acid and its salts), and the like.

It is preferable that the (a) active skin care agent is soluble in water, more preferably chosen from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably chosen from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture of these.

The amount of the active skin care agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of (a) active skin care agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (a) active skin care agent in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Acid soluble in water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one water-soluble acid. Only one type of (b) water-soluble acid can be used, but two or more different types of (b) water-soluble acids can be used in combination.

The (b) water-soluble acid may have a solubility in water at pH 7 below 25°C of 10 g/100 mL or more, preferably 20 g/100 mL or more, and preferably 30 g /100 mL or more.

The (b) water-soluble acid can be an organic or inorganic acid.

The organic acid can be chosen from carboxylic acids, acidic amino acids, hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

The carboxylic acid can be chosen from monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof.

The monocarboxylic acid may be selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid and a mixture thereof.

The dicarboxylic acid may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid and a mixture thereof.

The acidic amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of glutamic acid, aspartic acid and a mixture thereof.

The hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, gluconic acid and a mixture of these.

The inorganic acid may be hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and a mixture thereof.

The (b) water-soluble acid may not be a fatty acid that has 8 or more carbon atoms.

It is preferable to choose the (b) water-soluble acid from organic acids, more preferably hydroxy acids, and even more preferably lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and a mixture of these. this.

The amount of (b) water-soluble acid in the composition according to the present invention is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less. , and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the water-soluble acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4 % by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Hydrophobic pigment)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one hydrophobic pigment. A single hydrophobic pigment or a combination of several different hydrophobic pigments can be used.

In the present invention, the term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or colored, inorganic or organic particles of any form which are insoluble in a physiologically acceptable medium and are intended to color a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips. .

It is preferable that the size of the (c) hydrophobic pigment is greater than 100 nm. For the purposes of the present invention, the “size” of a particle designates a volume average diameter. The volume average diameter can be assessed by light diffraction using, for example, a laser particle size analyzer, such as a Malvern Mastersizer, in which particles to be assessed are dispersed in a liquid medium , for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the size of the hydrophobic pigment can range from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm.

It is preferable to choose the (c) hydrophobic pigment from the hydrophobic coated pigments. The term “hydrophobic coated pigment” means any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term “lipophilic compound” refers to any compound that is soluble or dispersible in oil. The term “hydrophobic compound” refers to any compound that is insoluble in water.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are chosen from inorganic and organic pigments.

The term “inorganic pigment” refers to any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments, of metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red), or chromium oxides, violet manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. These inorganic pigments can in particular be chosen from metal oxides.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the inorganic pigments, in particular the metal oxides, present in the composition to be used for the cosmetic process according to the present invention are chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and 'iron oxide. It may be preferable that the titanium oxide, as inorganic pigments, has a particle size equal to or greater than 0.1 μm, more preferably 0.2 μm or greater, and even more preferably 0.3 μm or greater.

The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment corresponding to the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone and phthalocyanine compounds, metal complex type compounds, and isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrole, thioindigo, dioxazine compounds, triphenylmethane and quinophthalate.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in color index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments coded in the color index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 4700 0 and 47005, green pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 4 5380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470 and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives in patent FR 2 679 771.

Pigment coating:

The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “coating” of a pigment generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. Thus, the hydrophobic pigment may be surface-treated pigments.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared with surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.

The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.

The hydrophobic pigment may also comprise at least one coating comprising at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound can be chosen from a metal hydroxide such as aluminum hydroxide and metal chlorides such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface treatment agent on the surface of solid pigment particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surface treatment agent, optionally with heating, before the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the composition to be used for the present invention.

The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in document US-B-4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic compound:

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound chosen from silicon-based surface treatment agents; fluorinated surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface treatment agents; metallic soaps; fatty acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; monoalkyl triacyl titanate such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof, as explained below.

Silicon-based surface treatment agent;

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a silicon-based compound, that is to say a silicon-based surface treatment agent.

The silicon-based surface treatment agent may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate (co)polymers, silicone resins and mixtures thereof, as explained below.

The term “organopolysiloxanes” means a compound having a structure comprising alternating silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.

i) Organopolysiloxanes

It is preferable to choose organopolysiloxanes from non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes.

The non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes which may in particular be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group can be represented by the radical R-O- so that R represents the radicals methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, aryl radicals such as phenyl , tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method of preparing surface-treated pigments with a polymethylhydrogensiloxane involves dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds can be created between the silicone compound and the pigment surface.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the silicon-based surface treatment agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, specially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

According to a particular form, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone can be used, such as the commercial product sold under the name KF9908® from Shin-Etsu.

ii) Silane derivatives

It is preferable to choose silane derivatives from alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes.

Silanes endowed with alkoxy functionality are particularly described by Witucki in “A Silane Primer, Chemistry and Applications of Alkoxy Silanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993”.

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

The use of alkyl polysiloxanes bearing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino and imino is described in patent application JP-A-H07-196946. They are also suitable for pigment processing.

iii) (Co)Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic (po)polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US patents. Nos. 5,725,882, 5,209,924, 4,972,037, 4,981,903, 4,981,902 and 5,468,477 and in US patents. 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582 can be used.

Other silicone-acrylate (co)polymers may be silicone (co)polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:
(I)

in which the G ₁ radicals, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the G ₂ radicals, which may be identical or different, represent a C ₁ -C ₁₀ alkyl group; G ₃ represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; G ₄ represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer which can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer between 0 and 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the pattern of formula (I) above has at least one of the following characteristics, and even more preferably all:

- the G ₁ radicals designate an alkyl radical, preferably a methyl radical;

- n is non-zero, and the G ₂ radicals represent a divalent C ₁ -C ₃ radical, preferably a propylene radical;

- G ₃ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid; And

- G ₄ represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C ₁ -C ₁₀ ) alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably such as (meth)acrylate isobutyl or methyl.

Examples of silicone (co)polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic type are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type bonding chain unit. and of poly(meth)acrylate methyl type.

Other examples of silicone (co)polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which poly(meth) type polymer units are grafted, via a thiopropylene type bonding chain unit. isobutyl acrylate.

iv) Silicone resins

The silicone-based surface treatment agent can be chosen from silicone resins.

The term “resin” refers to a three-dimensional structure.

Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature for silicone resins is known as “MDTQ,” with the resin described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, with each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of pattern.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO ₁₂ , the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D designates a difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO ₂ in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH ₃ )SiO _3/2 .

In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups can be substituted by a group R other than a methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon-based radical (in particular alkyl) containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or even a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q designates a tetrafunctional SiO _4/2 unit in which the silicon atom can be linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various resins with different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying depending on the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, and the length of the polymer chain. , the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.

Here are some examples of these silicone resins that can be mentioned:

- siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH ₃ ) ₃ XSiXO] _x X(SiO _4/2 ) _y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers between 50 and 80;

- polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CH ₃ SiO _3/2 ) _x (T units) where x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals can be replaced by an R group as defined above; And

- polymethylsilsesquioxanes, which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals are substituted by another group. These polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US-B-5,246,694.

Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those sold:

- by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK®, such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeated CH ₃ SiO _3/2 units (T units), which can also include up to 1% by weight of (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO _2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000; And

- by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L® which is composed of T units of formula CH ₃ SiO _3/2 and contains Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which includes 98% T units and 2% D units dimethyl and contains Si-OH end groups, or also under the reference KR-251, comprising 88% T units and 12% D units dimethyl and contains d groups Si-OH end.

Siloxysilicate resins which may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, optionally in powder form. These resins are sold under the references SRI 000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230®, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803®, Wacker 803® and 804®, by the company Wacker Corporation Corporation.

It is also possible to mention trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J® by the Shin-Etsu company or DC 749® and DC 593® by the Dow Corning company.

As examples of commercial references for pigments treated with a silicone compound, we can mention: iron oxide red/dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

Fluorinated surface treatment agent;

The pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a fluoro compound, that is to say a fluorinated surface treatment agent.

The fluorinated surface treatment agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

The term “perfluoroalkyl radical” refers to an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are notably described in patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade name Fomblin® by the company Montefluos.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are described in particular in patent application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl diethanolamine phosphates sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes which may be mentioned are perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluoro aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluoro organic compounds based on hydrocarbons comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, we can cite the range of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), we can cite perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP® by the company Rhodia, perfluoro(methyldecalin) and perfluoro(C ₃ -C ₅ alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluoronaphthalene derivatives, for example perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene.

As examples of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, we can mention:

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei;

- red iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei;

- black iron oxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL100® by the company Daito Kasei;

- titanium dioxide/perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO ₂ CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei;

- yellow iron oxide/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference Yellow iron oxide BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki;

- DC Red 7/perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by the company Cardre Inc.; And

- DC Red 6/PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the Warner-Jenkinson company.

Fluorosilicone surface treatment agent;

The pigments can be treated totally or partially on the surface with a compound of a fluorosilicone nature, that is to say a fluorosilicone surface treatment agent.

The fluorosilicone compound can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones can be represented by the following formula (II):
(II)

in which :

- R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

- Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably from 20 to 100; And

- n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably from 1 to 100.

As examples of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surfactants;

The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from:

i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; the metallic soaps which may be particularly mentioned include metallic soaps of fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular those containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal of metallic soap may in particular be zinc or magnesium. Metallic soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, and zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof;

ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid;

iii) N-acylamino acids or their salts, which may comprise an acyl group containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, an N-acylamino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for example , aluminum stearoyl glutamate. These include, for example, the NAI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;

iv) lecithin and its derivatives, such as hydrogenated lecithin, for example HLC surface treatment sold by LCW;

v) monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacetyl titanate, also called monoalkyl titanate, can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR') ₃ , where R is alkyl and R' is an acyl group which may be the same or different. In some embodiments of the monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is a C _1-5 alkyl group, particularly a C _1-4 alkyl group, and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or a derivative of acrylic acid, for example methacrylic acid, or a fatty acid. The acyl groups in particular are derived from a C _{6-30 fatty acid,} more particularly from a C _{12-24 fatty acid,} and even more particularly from a C _{16-20 fatty acid.} These fatty acids can be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxyl stearic, oleic acid. The acyl groups of these triacyl titanates may be the same or different. The preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate, see US Patent Application Publication No. 2005/0019284 (in particular paragraphs [0038]-[0052]). According to another preferred embodiment, the monoalkyl triacetyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate. Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearyl titanate (ITT), also called isopropyl titanium triisostearate (INCI name: Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate). The monoalkyl tri-acyl titanate treated pigment may be an isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment. The monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. The mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate treated pigment may be treated with only monoalkyl tri-acyl titanate, or treated with monoalkyl tri-acyl titanate and at least one additional surface treatment agent such as a fluorinated surface treatment or a silicone-based surface treatment agent such as polydimethylsiloxane. For example, the pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). The isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment may only be treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent such as polydimethylsiloxane. As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), we can mention those sold under the commercial references BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI177891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-12® (titanium dioxide of iron CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-12® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BRO-12® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisestearate) by the company Kobo;

vi) isostearyl sebacate;

vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

viii) fatty esters, in particular jojoba esters;

ix) phospholipids; And

x) their mixtures.

The waxes mentioned above may be those generally used in cosmetics, as defined below.

These may in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and/or fluorinated waxes, possibly comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

The term “polar wax” means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they can be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included in polar waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have an average Hansen solubility parameter δ _a at 25 °C, so that δ _a >0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 and better still δ _a >1 (J/cm ³ ) ^{1 /2} :

in which δ _p and δ _h are, respectively, the polar contributions and the contributions of specific interaction types to the Hansen solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

- δ _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bond, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.);

- δ _h characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

Solubility parameters are calculated with HSPiP v4.1 software.

The parameters δ _p and δ _h are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

A polar wax is notably formed from molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N and P).

Non-limiting illustrations of these polar waxes which may be particularly mentioned include natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, silicone surfactants, vegetable waxes. or natural animal products, hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters and their mixtures.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, use will be made of pigments with hydrophobic coating chosen from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI ® by Miyoshi Kasei.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, use will be made of pigments with hydrophobic coating chosen from titanium dioxides and iron dioxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT); mention may be made of those sold under the commercial references BTD-401® (titanium dioxide CI177891 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company Kobo.

The quantity of the hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10%. by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the hydrophobic pigment(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 5% and 45% by weight, and more preferably between 10% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Polyol)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups and does not include a saccharide or derivative thereof. The saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups of this or these latter have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The (d) polyol may be a C ₂ -C _{12 polyol,} preferably a C ₂ -C ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The (d) polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The (d) polyol may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The (d) polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives, as well as glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 oxide groups ethylene) and sugars such as sorbitol.

It is preferable to choose the (d) polyol from diols, preferably alkylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the polyol(s) may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 60% by weight or less, preferably 55% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 55%. by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 12% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 12% by weight, and more preferably between 5% and 12% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

Here, “oil” means a compound or fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The (f) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or one of their mixtures.

The (f) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

As examples of vegetable oils, we can cite flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, coconut oil rapeseed, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane, for example.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C _{26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols,} the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention originate is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicapryl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or myristate ethyl stearate, isocyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C _{22 alcohols,} as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols in C ₄ -C ₂₆ can also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethylyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; Diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates hydrocarbon compounds carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of C ₆ - C _{30 fatty acids,} linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and of preferably in C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ . If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as , in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and mixed palmitostearate esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, palmitate/caprate methyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isonanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, d laurate hexyl, isocetyl sterate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate , glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and their compounds.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. This concerns, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name “Volatile Silicone® 7207” by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name “Volatile Silicone® 7158” by Union Carbide , Silbione®70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name “Silsoft 1217” by “Momentive Performance Materials” and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2). ,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C in accordance with ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- Silbione ^® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil ^® oils sold by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

- oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by the company Rhodia;

- oils from the 200 range from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 range oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of each other, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably hydrocarbon radicals in C ₁ -C ₆ , in particular the methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

Examples of products sold under the following names may be:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, it is preferable to use phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to _R10 are methyl; p, q, and n=0; m=1 in the above formula).

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus mention the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- linear or branched lower alkanes, optionally cyclic in CC ₆ -C ₁₆ . Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, a mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin , petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are included in the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, preferably linear or branched C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, and preferably C ₁₂ -C alcohols. ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from all linear or branched saturated C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Among the saturated C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C ₁₂ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched can be used more preferentially. Saturated C ₁₆ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can be used more preferentially. Branched C ₁₆ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used even more preferentially.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used. as a saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferable to choose the (f) oil from oils with a molecular weight less than 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the (f) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g/mol, chosen from ester oils with a short (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) hydrocarbon chain or chains (for example, sarcosinate isopropyl lauroyl, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g. example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated alcohol type oils (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) such as octylodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether .

It is preferable to choose the (f) oil from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils.

The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1 % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20%. by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Optional ingredients)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, in particular, surfactants or emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, perfumes and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the compound(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 0.1%. at 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared, for example, by mixing the above essential ingredients and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means such as a mixer can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[Cosmetic process]

The cosmetic process according to the present invention for a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips comprises the steps:

application on the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; And

application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

The above device is not limited as long as it can deliver the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance, in particular through the stratum corneum of the skin or lips.

The device can apply energy, such as light, sound, heat and vibration, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

It is preferable that the device be or include a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating a keratinous substance, thereby delivering the composition according to the present invention in a surface layer of the keratinous substance. The device and microneedle sheet will be described later.

The step of applying the composition according to the present invention to a keratinous substance can be carried out using any applicator such as a brush.

It may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention is applied to the keratinous substance in combination with at least one porous sheet such as a woven or non-woven fabric, in order to obtain good contact of the composition with the keratinous substance and good cosmetic effects on the desired site of the keratinous substance.

A porous sheet can absorb and hold the composition according to the present invention. Therefore, applying a porous sheet can facilitate the contact of the composition with the keratinous substance, which can contribute to good cosmetic effects on the keratinous substance.

The type of the above combination is not limited. Thus, a porous sheet can be applied to the keratinous substance before applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance. It is also possible to apply a porous sheet to the keratinous substance after applying the composition to the keratinous substance.

It is preferable that the step of applying the device to a keratinous substance is carried out for a desired area on the keratinous substance. For example, it is preferable that the application site of the device can move on the surface of the keratinous substance provided that the device is capable of delivering the composition according to the present invention to the desired area on the keratinous substance.

It is preferable to apply the device to the keratinous substance without a step of drying the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous substance. In other words, it is preferable that the device is applied to the keratinous substance such that the device is capable of delivering the composition into the keratinous substance before the composition is dry or when the keratinous substance is wet.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention may further comprise the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance.

After the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance, the composition according to the present invention can be removed from the surface of the keratinous substance.

It is preferable that the cosmetic process according to the present invention further comprises the step of maintaining or releasing the composition according to the present invention onto the keratinous substance after the step of removing the device from the surface of the keratinous substance and before the step of removing the composition according to the present invention from the surface of the keratinous substance, because the composition can effectively penetrate the keratinous substance via, for example, the holes formed on and in the keratinous substance by microneedles.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention may be intended for cosmetic treatments of a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips, preferably the skin, and more preferably the skin of the face.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention can be used to improve the aesthetic appearance of a keratinous substance, for example, by coloring and/or caring for (e.g., whitening) the keratinous substance such as skin.

The cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide a keratinous substance with uniform color and care effects, as well as long-lasting coloring effects and improved care effects. Therefore, for example, the makeup effects offered by the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be maintained for a long time, for example on a face even if sebum or sweat is present on the face or if rain falls. on the face.

However, the cosmetic process according to the present invention does not correspond to skin tattooing, which is a semi-permanent coloring, because skin tattooing is accompanied by pain. Furthermore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention colors a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, and therefore, the color offered by the cosmetic process according to the present invention can only last, for example, a few weeks, which does not correspond to semi-permanent coloring.

[Necessary and Usage]

The present invention also relates to a kit for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, comprising:

the composition according to the present invention; And

at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

The composition according to the present invention can be contained in any container such as a container commonly used for cosmetic purposes.

The kit can preferably be used to carry out the cosmetic process in accordance with the present invention.

The above device is not limited as long as it can deliver the composition according to the present invention into a superficial layer of a keratinous substance, in particular through the stratum corneum of the skin or lips.

The device can apply energy, such as light, sound, heat and vibration, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

It is preferable that the device be or include a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating a keratinous substance, thereby delivering the composition according to the present invention in a surface layer of the keratinous substance.

Below, an embodiment of a microneedle sheet and a device with the microneedle sheet is described.

{Microneedle Sheet}

The microneedle sheet may include a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet.

A device with the sheet of microneedles, to be used for the present invention, can be a cosmetic device, preferably a cosmetic device for a keratinous substance, and more preferably a cosmetic device for the skin, in particular the skin of the face, as well as the lips.

(Microneedles)

The microneedle sheet may include multiple microneedles.

Microneedles are present on the surface of a substrate sheet. The microneedles may be present on 50% or more, preferably 70% or more, and preferably 90% or more of the surface area of the substrate sheet.

It is preferable that the microneedles are present on one of the surfaces of a substrate sheet.

It is preferable that the microneedles of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention are designed to penetrate or enter the stratum corneum of the skin, particularly the skin of the face, as well as the lips.

A microneedle can be any size and shape suitable for puncturing the stratum corneum. It may be preferable if the microneedles are designed to pierce and penetrate the stratum corneum. Microneedles can create openings or passages in the stratum corneum.

If necessary, the height of the microneedles can be adjusted so as to allow penetration of the epidermis and/or dermis of the skin, preferably the epidermis, and more preferably one of the layers of the skin. epidermis.

The shape of microneedles is not limited as long as the shape is a “needle”. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that microneedles for the present invention can take any reasonable shape, including, but not limited to, pyramids, cones, rods and/or pillars. As such, microneedles may have the same diameter at the tip as at the base or may be tapered in the direction from base to tip.

For example, the shape of the microneedle can be a triangular pyramid, a square pyramid or a pentagonal pyramid. The microneedle may also be in the shape of a cylinder, preferably with a tip which can be formed by cutting the cylinder diagonally. The section of the microneedle can take any geometric shape, including circular, triangular, square, rectangular, polyhedral, regular or irregular, and the like. In one embodiment of the present invention, a group of microneedles may take the form of hollow microcapillaries. However, for the present invention, solid (not hollow) microneedles may be preferable.

Reference is therefore made to “microneedles” as the type of microprotrusion or microprotrusion employed. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that in many cases, the same inventive principles apply to the use of other microprotrusions or microprotrusions to penetrate the skin. Other microprotrusions or microprotrusions may include, for example, microblades as described in U.S. Patent No. 6,219,574 and Canadian Patent Application No. 2,226,718 and edged microneedles as described in U.S. Patent No. 6,652,478 .

The height or length of the microneedle of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may be 10 to 500 microns, preferably 30 to 300 microns, and more preferably 50 to 150 microns.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the microneedle is in the form of a cone.

The cone may include a distal end such as a tip and a base. The base can be circular or oval in shape.

The height or length of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may be between 10 and 500 microns, preferably between 30 and 300 microns, and more preferably between 50 and 150 microns .

The base of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may have a diameter or width of 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns. If the base of the microneedle cone of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is in the shape of an oval or ellipse, the length of the major axis or the width of the oval may be 10 at 500 microns, preferably from 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably from 10 to 100 microns.

The microneedle may have a side ratio (length/width at base) of at least about 3:1, at least about 2:1, or at least about 1:1. The ratio (cone height)/(cone base diameter) of the microneedle may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and preferably 2.0 or more.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the microneedle is in the shape of a pyramid, such as a triangular pyramid and a square pyramid.

The pyramid may include a distal end such as a tip and a base. The shape of the base can be triangular or square.

The height or length of the pyramid of the microneedle of the sheet of microneedles to be used for the present invention may be between 10 and 500 microns, preferably between 30 and 300 microns, and more preferably between 50 and 150 microns.

The base of the microneedle pyramid of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention may have a width of 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns. If the base of the microneedle pyramid of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is in the shape of a triangle or square, the side length or width of the triangle or square may be 10 to 500 microns, preferably 10 to 300 microns, and more preferably 10 to 100 microns.

The microneedle may have a side ratio (length/width at base) of at least about 3:1, at least about 2:1, or at least about 1:1. The ratio (pyramid height)/(pyramid base width) of the microneedle may be 1 or more, preferably 1.5 or more, and preferably 2.0 or more.

It may be preferable that the microneedle be capable of penetrating a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, to a depth of 200 microns or less, preferably 180 microns or less, and more preferably 160 microns or less. less.

A very narrow microneedle pitch may not provide the microneedles with sufficient surface area so that the microneedles do not penetrate the skin. On the other hand, too large a pitch can also lead to a problem where an individual microneedle may not have enough pressure for penetration. Thus, it may be preferable for a microneedle array pitch to be between 400 and 700 microns, and more preferably between 400 and 500 microns.

The number of microneedles and the pitch between microneedles depend on certain factors such as the desired color pattern and the width of a microneedle. For example, if a color pattern with a width of 0.5 microns is desired, using a microneedle sheet that has a microneedle array (2x2) with a pitch of 0.5 mm may be the most appropriate.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the density of the microneedles can be from 100 to 2000 microneedles/cm ² , preferably 200 to 1000 microneedles/cm ² , and even more preferably 200 to 500 microneedles. needles/cm ² .

It is best if the microneedles cannot be dissolved.

“Non-dissolvable” microneedling means that the microneedle cannot break down or be disintegrated inside a keratinous substance such as skin and lips for example, a natural moisturizing factor or external humidity.

It is preferable that the microneedles are not water soluble.

Microneedles can be made of organic or inorganic materials. Examples of organic materials include synthetic polymers, including polyethylene, polypropylene and photosensitive resins, biodegradable plastics, cellulose derivatives and their mixtures. Examples of inorganic materials include metals including stainless steel, non-metals such as silicon, glass and ceramics, and mixtures thereof. Any other material that can be implanted in the skin or the body can also be used.

It is best if microneedles are sterile or sterilized before use. It is best if the microneedles are only used once and are therefore disposable.

It is preferable that the microneedles are composed of inorganic materials, preferably metals or non-metals, and even more silicon (in particular, monocrystalline silicon).

It is also preferable that the microneedles are solid (not hollow).

The microneedles themselves can be any color. However, it may be preferable if the microneedles do not include any coloring agents intended to color a keratinous substance.

(Substrate sheet)

The microneedle sheet may include a substrate sheet on which the microneedles are present or placed.

The carrier sheet and microneedles can be separate or integrated.

For example, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may comprise at least one common material. Thus, in one embodiment of the present invention, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may be a single element comprising at least one common material. Preferably, the single item can be prepared using the same material.

On the other hand, the backing sheet may be different or distinct from the microneedles. For example, the substrate sheet and the microneedles may be made of different materials. In this case, the substrate sheet can be chosen, for example, from masks, wipes, patches and, in general, all types of porous substrate sheets. Preferably, these substrate sheets have an oblong structure, that is to say a thickness less than the dimensions of the plane in which they are defined.

The substrate sheet may be cut into the shape of a patch, disc, mask, towel, glove, pre-cut roll, or any other shape suitable for cosmetic use.

(Preparation)

There is no limitation on how to prepare the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention. It is possible to prepare the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention based on conventional technology such as casting, 3D printing, metal processing, and the like.

The shape of the microneedle sheet to be used for the present invention is not limited and can be any such as the shape of the lips or a shape suitable for application under the eyes, depending on the target of application. of the microneedle sheet.

{Device}

The microneedle sheet may be applied, as a device, to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance.

It is better if the microneedles can penetrate the keratinous substrate with repetition.

The way to perform repeated microneedle penetrations into a keratinous substance is not limited. For example, repeated penetrations can be carried out by tapping the fingers several times on the back surface of the substrate sheet of the microneedle sheet so that the microneedles on the front surface of the substrate sheet can penetrate repeatedly in the keratinous substance.

Additionally, it is best to perform repeated microneedle penetrations using vibrations towards a keratinous substance such as the skin and lips.

For example, as shown in , a microneedle sheet 1 can be connected to an oscillator 2 which can produce vibrations towards the surface of a keratinous substance, which corresponds to the up and down direction on the . The type of oscillator 2 is not limited as long as it can produce vibrations. For example, oscillator 2 may consist of a piezoelectric element. Of course, any other actuator that can repeatedly move, preferably vibrate, towards a keratinous substance can be used in place of oscillator 2.

On the , the microneedle sheet 1 can move up and down according to the vibrations caused by the oscillator 2. Therefore, the microneedles on the microneedle sheet 1 can repeatedly penetrate into a keratinous substance such as skin and lips.

It is preferable that the oscillator 2 is connected to a head which can serve as a receiver for the microneedle sheet 1, and the substrate sheet of the microneedle sheet 1 is attached to the head. Thus, the vibrations caused by oscillator 2 can be transmitted to the head. Then the microneedle sheet 1 can also vibrate via the head.

It is preferable to use a device comprising a system for vibrating the sheet of microneedles 1. For example, the device may comprise the oscillator 2 and the head which is connected to the oscillator 2, as well as a battery , such as a dry battery, which can drive the oscillator 2 and a control means for controlling the frequency of the vibrations caused by the oscillator 2. For example, a device disclosed in document WO 2011/115602, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference, may be used as the above device.

When using the above device, the microneedle sheet 1 can be mounted on the head of the oscillator 2 and can be applied to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips so that the microneedles needles of the microneedle sheet 1 can repeatedly penetrate the keratinous substance.

The vibration or tapping frequency is not limited. For example, the frequency can be between 1,000 and 10,000 per minute, preferably between 1,000 and 8,000 per minute, and more preferably between 3,000 and 6,000 per minute.

It may be preferable to regulate the pressure to be used to penetrate the microneedles into a keratinous substance. The pressure can depend on certain factors such as the type of microneedles as well as the type of staining.

Tapping or vibrating penetration of microneedles provides continuous, stable skin puncture and may reduce the force required to embed the microneedle into the keratinous substance. This can also produce massage effects on the treated area of the keratinous substance, allowing better diffusion or dispersion of the hydrophobic pigment(s) in the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips, in order to offer the keratinous substance uniform coloring and skin care effects.

More specifically, the use according to the present invention may include

the first application to a keratinous substance whose composition is in accordance with the present invention; And

the second application to the keratinous substance, to which the composition has been applied, a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating in the keratinous substance, so as to provide a keratinous substance such as skin or lips with uniform color and skin care effects.

It is better if the microneedles can penetrate the keratinous substrate with repetition. The repetitions can be based on vibration or tapping of the microneedle sheet.

Another aspect of the use according to the present invention may be the composition according to the present invention, for use in the uniform coloring and/or whitening of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips in combination with a sheet of microneedles comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet where the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance, preferably with repetitions, and more preferably with repetitions based on vibration or tapping the microneedle sheet.

According to the above necessity and use according to the present invention, the microneedles of a microneedle sheet can deliver the hydrophobic pigment(s) and/or the agent(s). s) skin care active(s) in a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin care effects. In addition, the above kit and use according to the present invention can provide a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with lasting coloring effects and/or enhanced skin care effects such as as enhanced whitening effects.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.

[Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3]

[Preparation]

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as materials. active.

Example 1 Comp.
Example 1 Comp.
Example 2 Comp.
Example 3 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 Tranexamic Acid 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Dipropylene glycol qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 10 10 10 10 Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate 27 27 27 27 Iron Oxides (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 Citric acid 1 - 1 5 Water 8 8 15 8 Pigment dispersion Good Good Bad Bad Crystallization Good Bad Good Good

[Ratings]

(Pigment dispersion)

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 immediately after preparation were observed visually using a polarized optical microscope and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Good: No pigment aggregation was observed.

Bad: Pigment aggregation was observed.

The results are shown in Table 1 below.

(Crystallization)

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-3 immediately after preparation were observed visually using a polarized optical microscope and evaluated according to the following criteria.

Good: No crystals were observed.

Bad: A crystal was observed.

The results are shown in Table 1 below.

(Summary)

In the composition according to Example 1, the hydrophobic pigments were uniformly dispersed and the active skin care agent was dissolved without precipitation of crystals.

Thus, the composition according to Example 1 can provide uniform coloring and skin care effects, particularly when applied to a keratinous substance such as skin and lips with a device for delivering the composition into the surface layer of the keratinous substance.

In the composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not include water-soluble acid, the hydrophobic pigments were uniformly dispersed, but the active skin care agent caused them to form crystals, which which means the active skin care agent could not be dissolved evenly.

In the composition according to Comparative Example 2, which includes a relatively large amount of water, the hydrophobic pigments could not be dispersed uniformly, while the active skin care agent was dissolved without precipitation of crystals.

In the composition according to Comparative Example 3, which includes a relatively large amount of water-soluble acid, the hydrophobic pigments could not be dispersed uniformly, while the active skin care agent was dissolved without precipitation of crystals.

Thus, the compositions according to comparative examples 1-3 cannot offer uniform coloring and care effects, in particular when applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin and lips with a device for delivering the composition. in a superficial layer of the keratinous substance.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
(a) at least one active skin care agent;
(b) at least one water-soluble acid;
(c) at least one hydrophobic pigment;
(d) at least one polyol;
(e) water,
in which
the amount of the (b) water-soluble acid is less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
the quantity of (e) water is less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, in which the active skin care agent is soluble in water, preferably chosen from anti-wrinkle agents, whitening agents and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from niacinamide, tranexamic acid and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the (b) water-soluble acid is chosen from organic acids, preferably hydroxy acids, and more preferably lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (c) hydrophobic pigment has at least one hydrophobic coating; is preferably chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides and mixtures thereof, with at least one hydrophobic coating; and is more preferably chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxides treated with mono-alkyl tri-acyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the (d) polyol is chosen from diols, preferably alkylene glycols, and more preferably from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the composition further comprises (f) at least one oil, preferably chosen from polar oils, and more preferably from ester oils. Cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips, comprising the steps:
application to the keratinous material of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6; And
application on the keratinous substance, on which the composition has been applied, of at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance. A cosmetic process according to claim 7, wherein the device comprises a microneedle sheet comprising a substrate sheet and a plurality of microneedles on the substrate sheet such that the microneedles are capable of penetrating the keratinous substance , thus delivering the composition into the surface layer of the keratinous substance. Necessary for a keratinous substance, such as skin and lips, including:
the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6; And
at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of the keratinous substance. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in combination with at least one device for delivering the composition into a surface layer of a keratinous substance such as the skin and the lips, in order to provide the keratinous substance with uniform coloring and skin care effects.