FR3138308A1 - COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and/or make-up of keratin materials, comprising: (i) at least one structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; (iii) at least one surfactant other than C14-C22 saturated fatty acids; (iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and (v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of said composition to the keratin materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials.

RELATED ART

The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the inside of the body against physical injuries (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

The development of formulas dedicated to the care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips is ongoing.

For example, efforts have been made to formulate compositions in the form of creams or emulsions.

As a commercial product, it is desirable that the product be stable at room temperature and even at high temperatures, for example above 55°C.

It is common to incorporate moisturizing agents into cosmetic products, which are notably hygroscopic substances which cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and retaining water in the skin.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) and its salts are commonly used as moisturizing agents in cosmetic products.

However, for some emulsions such as water-in-oil emulsions or oil-in-water emulsions comprising hyaluronic acid or salts thereof, phase separation occurs easily with water leakage or of oil.

It is therefore necessary to formulate a composition for skin care and/or makeup, which comprises at least one moisturizing agent, which is stable at room temperature (for example 25°C immediately after being prepared and at a relatively high, for example 55°C.

The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions remaining stable at room temperature (for example, 25°C) immediately after their preparation and at a relatively high temperature, for example 55°C, for at least one week. .

Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

(ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

(iii) at least one surfactant other than saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

(iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and

(v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from the compounds of formula (I):

(I)

in which :

- R represents a saturated C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ to C ₄ which can optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR'' 2 _, R'' ₂ being a radical saturated C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl,}

- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and

_{- _ _ _} (CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be α or β,

as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase.

The inventors have found that the composition of the present invention has a lamellar texture and is stable at room temperature (for example, 25°C) immediately after its preparation and at a relatively high temperature, for example 55°C for at least a week .

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratin materials.

Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the attached drawing in which:

There represents the polarized optical microscopy image of the composition obtained in Example of Invention 1.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term of the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described in the present invention will apply.

As used herein, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, particularly in the expressions "between...and..." and "from... to... ".

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Throughout this application, the term “comprising” shall be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features. As used herein, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present ( ie "consisting of").

Unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the description and the claims must be understood as being modified in all cases by the term “approximately”. Therefore, unless otherwise noted, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values and may be subject to change depending on the intended purpose, if applicable.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. The skin of the face is particularly taken into consideration according to the present invention.

In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.

According to the first aspect, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:

(i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

(ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

(iii) at least one surfactant other than saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;

(iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and

(v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside.

Structuring agents

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids.

As examples of saturated C14-C22 fatty acids, mention may be made of myristic acid, pentadecanoic acid, palmitic acid, heptadenoic acid, stearic acid, cetearyl acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid and a combination of these.

Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

Preferably, the structuring agent is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids.

Particularly preferably, the structuring agent is chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination of these.

Advantageously, the structuring agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 20% by weight, better still from 1.3% by weight to 10%. by weight, even better still from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is capable of swelling in water to form a microgel in the form of particles with a size of 50-400 μm.

Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof.

The homopolymer suitable for use in the composition according to the invention is chosen in particular from sodium polyacrylates and potassium polyacrylates. Sodium polyacrylate is preferably used.

The acrylic acid homopolymer can advantageously be neutralized to a degree of between 5% and 80%.

As sodium polyacrylate which can be used according to the invention, use can be made of those marketed under the names Cosmedia SPL ^® by the company Cognis, or even Luvigel ^® EM marketed by the company BASF, the product marketed by the company Sensient under the commercial reference Covacryl MV 60® or even under the commercial name Cosmedia® by Cognis.

The modified starches which can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from those derived from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, pea starch and mixtures thereof.

Among the modified starches, mention may be made of precooked starches, hydrolyzed starches, crosslinked starches, for example with a methylolurea derivative or with octenylsuccinic anhydride or even with epichlorohydrin, esterified starches, etherified starches, oxidized starches, refined starches, starches roasted in the presence of an acid, or even grafted starches, for example grafted with sodium polyacrylates, coated starches, for example coated with amino acids, and/or their derivatives .

Among the modified starches particularly suitable for the invention, we can cite:

- those marketed under the names Structure XL and Structure Zea (hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) by the company National Starch;

- starches marketed under the names Sanfresh ST-100C, ST100MC, IM-300MC (INCI name sodium polyacrylate starch) by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries and

- mixtures of these.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3% by weight. at 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant other than saturated C14-C22 fatty acids.

Preferably, the surfactant is selected from

- mono and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid or their ethoxylated derivatives;

- esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;

- sorbitolic esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives;

- esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose or their ethoxylated derivatives;

- sucrose esters:

- ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside;

- C14-C24 fatty alcohols;

- polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as Laureth-5 carboxylic acid;

- a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;

- a polyoxyalkylated derivative of a monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate,

- sarcosinates, such as sodium sarcosinate lauroyl;

- a polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and

- mixtures of these.

As polyglyceryl (a) esters of fatty acid(s), it is appropriate to mention the product containing 2 to 10 units of glycerol, such as polyglyceryl monolaurate, oleate, myristate, caprylate or stearate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl dilaurate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, dimyristate of polyglyceryl comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl trimyristate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units, polyglyceryl trioleate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units and polyglyceryl tricaprylate comprising 2 to 10 glyceryl units.

Polyglyceryl esters include polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated, and branched C16-C22 fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, sesquioleate polyglyceryl-2, triglyceryl diistearate, diglyceryl monooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate or mixtures thereof.

Monoglyceryl esters include, in particular, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of fatty acids saturated, unsaturated and branched C16-C22 chain, such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate or their derivatives.

As monoglyceric esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or Trèsstearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or its glyceryl ricinoleate or its mixtures, or, as polyoxyalkylene derivatives of the latter, mention may be made of the mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether) , preferably polyethylethyl glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or sadearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, sadearate and/or triisostearate). Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated monoglyceryl ester derivative of fatty acids comprises 10 to 40 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

The surfactant may be chosen from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or polyoxyalkylated derivatives of the latter. , containing, preferably, from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 units of oxyalkylene, such as monoglyceryl esters or polyglyceryl esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, polyoxyalkylenated derivatives of the latter, preferably from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24 fatty acid, preferably C12-C22, or polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 hydroxyalkylene units; sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkylglycose) of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid, or polyoxyalkylated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, or better still from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; ethers of sugar and a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (mono - and glyceryl distearate) and potassium stearate sold under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

Sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, such as sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), marketed by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), marketed by the company ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan 20 EO tristearate (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), marketed by the company ICI under the name Tween65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.

As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made of glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or alkylglucose palmitate. ethylglucose, fatty esters of methylglucoside, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methyl glucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methyl glucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and their mixtures.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, mention may be made, for example, of ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and of methylglucose and, in particular, polyethylene glycol ether of the methylglucose diester and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, or their mixtures.

Sucrose esters include, for example, sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

As sugar ethers, alkyl polyglucosides can be used, and we can cite, for example, the ethers of a sugar and of C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohols including a decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name name of MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLATAREN 2000 by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic or mixtures thereof.

As C14-C24 fatty alcohols, we can mention oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is a polyethylene glycol ester comprising from 1 to 200 oxyethylene groups and a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably, The polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is selected from polyethylene glycol 2 EO monostearate or polyethylene glycol 100 monostearate (PEG-100 stearate).

Preferably, the surfactant is selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols in C14-C24 and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the surfactant is selected from glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl glucoside and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, better still from 0.8% by weight to 12%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Moisturizing agents

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent chosen from optional acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts.

Hyaluronic acid is a linear, non-sulfated glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

Acetylated hyaluronic acid in the present invention refers to a derivative in which the hydroxyl groups of hyaluronic acid have been at least partially acetylated.

Acetylated hyaluronic acid can be manufactured by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example, by referring to JPH 0853501; or is commercially available, for example, under the name HymagicTM from Bloomage Biotechnology Corporation Limited.

Optional acetylated hyaluronic acid salts may be selected from alkaline salts such as sodium and potassium salts or other salts, for example, zinc salts, silver salts and mixtures thereof .

Thus, according to certain embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid, sodium, potassium, zinc and silver salts thereof.

Preferably, the moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts is one or more high molecular weight hyaluronic acid(s) (HMW) or optionally a low molecular weight acetylated hyaluronic acid ( LMW) or salts thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "optional LMW acetylated hyaluronic acid" or its salts means an acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts having an average molecular weight less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons.

In particular, the optional acetylated hyaluronic acid LMW or its salts has an average molecular weight less than or equal to 60,000 Daltons, preferably less than or equal to 50,000 Daltons, for example from 10,000 to 60,000 Daltons, preferably from 15,000 to 50,000 Daltons, more particularly 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises sodium hyaluronate, as marketed by GIVAUDA under the trade name RENOVHYAL.

For purposes of the present invention, the term "HMW optional acetylated hyaluronic acid" or its salts has an average molecular weight of 80,000 to 1,500,000 Daltons or 100,000 Daltons to 1,000,000 Daltons.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises SODIUM HYALURONATE, as marketed by BLOOMAGE FREDA BIOPHARM under the trade name SODIUM HYALURONATE (HA-T).

According to the present invention, the useful acetylated hyaluronic acid or its salts has an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 1,000,000 Daltons, preferably 20,000 to 50,000 Daltons, or preferably 30,000 to 50,000 Daltons. Advantageously, the acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof has an acetyl group substitution number of between 2.5 and 4.0.

According to some embodiments of the invention, acetylated hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof is used in combination with hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof.

The optionally acetylated hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof is introduced into an aqueous phase of the composition.

Preferably, the moisturizing agent is present in an amount of between 0.001% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 5% by weight, better still between 0.001% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

C-glycosides

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside selected from the components of formula (I):

(I)

in which :

- R represents a saturated C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ to C ₄ which can optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR'' 2 _, R'' ₂ being a radical saturated C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl,}

- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and

_{- _ _ _} (CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be α or β,

as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear alkyl radical in C ₁ to C ₆ , in particular in C ₁ to C ₄ , preferably in C ₁ to C ₂ and better yet, a methyl radical.

Mention may in particular be made, among the alkyl groups suitable for implementing the invention, of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or of furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R also retaining all of the above definitions.

Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from the following elements: D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, acid D -glucuronic, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates the following elements: D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least a xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, composed of two xylose molecules linked by a 1-4 bond.

More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula I is used for which:

- R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical, C ₁ - C ₄ c in particular a C ₁ - C ₂ alkyl radical, in particular a methyl radical;

- S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

- X represents a group selected from a group -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ ) and, preferably, a group -CH(OH)-.

Acceptable salts of the compounds described herein include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more groups of carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acids. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH) ₂ , NH ₄ OH, Mg(OH) ₂ or Zn(OH) ₂ , or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcoholic functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. We can also mention lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine.

Solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. We can cite, by way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

A C-glycoside suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02/051828.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of non-limiting illustration, of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds:

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-α-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

- 1-(C-β-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-D-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-β-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- 1-(C-α-L-fucofuranosyl)propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) supplied in the form of a solution containing 75% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 11 to 20% by weight, preferably from 12 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Saponifiers

Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one saponifier.

The saponifier can be used to react with a saturated C14-C22 fatty acid to produce a salt.

The saponifier may be, for example, inorganic bases, such as alkali metal hydroxides (for example, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example, magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or organic bases, for example, monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine and arginine.

We can also mention sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate and potassium bicarbonate.

Preferably, the saponifier is chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromethamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and a combination of these products.

Where appropriate, advantageously, the molar ratio between the saponifier and the structuring agent selected from the saturated C14-C22 fatty acids is between 15 and 50%.

Aqueous phase

As an oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

This aqueous phase includes water.

Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible in water (at room temperature of 25°C) such as glycerin and glycols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. , and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, said aqueous phase is present in an amount of between 30% and 95% by weight, preferably between 35% and 90% by weight, better still between 40% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Oily phase

As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one dispersed fatty phase.

This fatty phase includes at least one oil.

Oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

In this document, the term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which can remain on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which has, in particular, a vapor pressure less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0, 13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined above, the quantity evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm ² .

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

This oil can be selected from hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated oils.

The expression “hydrocarbon-based oil” designates an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally O and N atoms, and free of Si and F heteroatoms. .This oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The term “silicone oil” refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular Si-O groups.

The term “fluorinated oil” refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Preferably, the oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils, such as isohexadecane, squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isonyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, myristyl myristate and silicone oils, such as dimethicone.

The fatty phase may also include a non-oily fatty substance, for example butters and waxes, such as shea butter, cera alba and beeswax, in order to create texture and provide a smooth finish. suitable skin.

Advantageously, the fatty phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount lying in the range of 2% by weight to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 35% by weight, and again better still from 7% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more cosmetic active ingredients.

As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, we can cite natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters ) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and its derivatives; sunscreens; extracts of algae, mushrooms, plants, yeast and bacteria; enzymes; other moisturizing agents such as ethylurea, agents acting on microcirculation and their mixtures.

It is easy for those skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants or conventional additives, for example perfumes, preservatives (e.g. chlorophenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (e.g. citric acid), thickeners such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art can choose the quantity of adjuvants or conventional additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

(i) from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids;

(ii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof;

(iii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8- fatty alcohols C24, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof;

(iv) from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one moisturizing agent selected from optional acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and

(iv) from 12% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a combination of these.

Galenic form and method

The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention has a lamellar texture.

By “lamellar” is meant a liquid crystalline structure or a hydrated lamellar phase, crystalline, swollen or not, with planar symmetry, comprising several amphiphilic bilayers arranged in parallel and separated by a liquid medium.

The composition of the present invention may be, for example, cream.

The composition of the present invention can be used for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, for example, it can be used as a foundation cream, hand cream, body cream, etc.

According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to keratin materials.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without being of a limiting nature.

EXAMPLES

The main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers of these materials are listed in Table 1.

INCI name Trade name Supplier GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ARLACEL™ 165 CRODA SODIUM POLYACRYLATE COVACRYL® MV60 FEEL STEARIC ACID PALMAC® 50-18/MB IOI GROUP OLEOCHEMICALS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE POTASH LAUNDRY 50% QUARON ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE MONTANOV 202 SEPPIC CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE MASESTER E7000 LR01-1/MB PT MUSIM MAS CERA ALBA CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER FAIR FOR LIFE REFINED SHEA BUTTER OLVEA ISONONYL ISONONANOATE ERCAREL ISN/O ERCA PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE JOLEE 7181 OLEON MYRISTYL MYRISTATE TEGOSOFT® MM EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT CHLORPHENESIN MACROCID-OL MACROCARE HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL MEXORYL SCS CHIMEX (NEW) BEESWAX CERABEIL LOR BAERLOCHER (CERESINE) XANTHAN GUM KELTROL® CG-T CP KELCO DIMETHICONE DOWSIL™ SH 200 Fluid 5 CST DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE PRIMALHYAL™ ULTRAFILLER GIVAUDAN SODIUM HYALURONATE RENOVHYAL LO SOLIANCE (GIVAUDAN)

Invention Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

The compositions of examples of invention (EI) 1 to 4 and comparative examples (EC) 1 to 4 were prepared according to the quantities given in Tables 2 and 3. The quantity of each component is given in weight% of the total weight of the composition containing it.

Phase INCI US EI1 EC1 EI2 EC2 EI3 EC3 HAS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.28 0.28 WATER Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 GLYCERIN 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 8.00 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 B STEARIC ACID 3.00 3.00 1.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE 1.60 1.60 0.80 0.80 1.60 1.60 BEESWAX 1.60 1.60 2.73 2.73 2.73 2.73 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 0.80 0.80 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 0.60 0.60 1.23 1.23 1.23 1.23 C1 XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 DIMETHICONE 1.50 1.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 2.50 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 C2 SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 D HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL* 20.00 - 20.00 - 20.00 -

Phase INCI US EI.4 EC. 4 HAS POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.20 0.16 WATER Up to 100 Up to 100 GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 0.20 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.50 1.50 B STEARIC ACID 1.50 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ¹⁾ 0.80 0.80 BEESWAX 2.40 2.40 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 3.10 3.10 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 0.40 0.40 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE ²⁾ 2.00 2.00 MYRISTYL MYRISTATE 1.10 1.10 VS
XANTHAN GUM 0.25 0.25 DIMETHICONE 1.00 1.00 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.80 0.80 SODIUM ACETYLATED HYALURONATE 0.002 0.002 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.001 0.001 D
TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL HYDROXYPROPYL ³⁾ 20.00 14.30

GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE ¹⁾ : comprising 50% by weight of GLYCERYL STEARATE and 50% by weight of PEG-100 STEARATE.

ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE ²⁾ : comprising 55% by weight of ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, 30% by weight of BEHENYL ALCOHOL and 15% by weight of ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE.

HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL ³⁾ is a HYDROXYPROPYL tetrahydropyrantriol in water and propylene glycol with a weight content of 70%, based on the total weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and water and propylene glycol.

The compositions of invention examples EI 1-4 are compositions according to the present invention.

The compositions of Comparative Examples 1-3 do not include C-glycoside.

The composition of Comparative Example 4 comprises less than 12% by weight of C-glycoside, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preparation procedure :

The above compositions were prepared as follows, taking as an example the composition of Invention Example 3.

1. by weighing the ingredients of phase A into a container and mixing until a transparent mixture is obtained, then stirring at 75°C at a stirring speed of 500 rpm until obtaining a yellowish transparent liquid;

2. heating the phase B premix to 85°C, then adding it to the yellowish transparent liquid at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm and mixing for 10 minutes to obtain a white emulsion ;

3. by adding the phase C1 premix at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

4. by adding phase C2 at 75°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm to obtain a white emulsion;

5. adding phase E at 70°C at a stirring speed of 1500 rpm to obtain a fine white cream, then cooling to room temperature while stirring to obtain the composition.

Assessment Lamellar texture

The formation of a lamellar texture was evaluated as follows.

The compositions were observed using a Leica DLMB microscope under 90 cross-polarized light and microscopic images were taken.

There represents the polarized optical microscopy image of the composition obtained in Example of Invention 1.

Similar photos were also obtained for the compositions of invention examples 2-4 (EI.2-4).

It can be seen that a lamellar texture is formed in the compositions of examples of invention 1-4 (EI.1-4).

Similar photos were not obtained for the compositions of comparative examples 1-3 (EC.1-3).

Similar photos were obtained for the composition of comparative example 4 (EC.4).

Stability

Stability was assessed as follows:

The appearance of each composition prepared above was observed immediately after its preparation at room temperature (25°C) and during storage at 55°C for 1 week.

In the event of a water leak at room temperature (25°C) immediately after the preparation of a composition, in this case, the latter is not stable. If there is an oil leak during storage at 55°C for 1 week, the composition is not stable and if there is only a slight oil leak, the composition has acceptable stability.

In the absence of water leakage at room temperature (25°C) immediately after its preparation and in the absence of oil leakage, and after storage at 55°C for 1 week, the composition has excellent stability. .

The results on the lamellar texture and stability of each composition prepared above were summarized in Table 4.

Lamellar texture Appearance Stability RT T0* 55C T1W** EI.1 Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 1 No Water leak N / A Unstable EI.2 Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 2 No Water leak N / A Unstable EI.3 Yes Homogeneity Homogeneity Excellent EC. 3 No Water leak N / A Unstable EI.4 Yes Homogeneity Reduced oil leak Acceptable EC. 4 Yes Homogeneity Significant oil leak Unstable

RT T0*: immediately after preparation of the composition to be tested.

55°C T1W**: store at 55C for 1 week.

NA: not evaluated.

Table 3 shows that the compositions of examples of invention 1 to 4 have a lamellar texture and are stable.

Claims (10)

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion intended for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising:
(i) at least one structuring agent selected from saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;
(ii) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;
(iii) at least one surfactant other than saturated C14-C22 fatty acids;
(iv) at least one moisturizing agent optionally chosen from acetylated hyaluronic acid and its salts and
(v) relative to the total weight, at least 12% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from the compounds of formula (I):
(I)
in which :
- R represents a saturated C ₁ to C ₁₀ alkyl radical, in particular C ₁ to C ₄ which can optionally be replaced by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR'' 2 _, R'' ₂ being a radical saturated C ₁ -C _{4 alkyl,}
- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and/or furanose and series L and/or D, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more protected amine functional groups and
_{- _ _ _} (CH ₃ )- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH ₂ )- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,
the S-CH ₂ -X bond represents an anomeric C bond, which can be α or β,
as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers. Composition according to claim 1, in which the structuring agent is selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids, preferably, the structuring agent is selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and a combination of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from alkaline metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, sodium polyacrylate starch, sodium polyacrylate starch and mixtures thereof . Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the surfactant is chosen from
- mono and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid or their ethoxylated derivatives;
- esters of polyols with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids;
- sorbitolic esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylated derivatives;
- esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose or their ethoxylated derivatives;
- sucrose esters:
- ethers of a sugar and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, such as caprylyl/capryl glucoside;
- C14-C24 fatty alcohols;
- polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as Laureth-5 carboxylic acid;
- a polyoxyethylated fatty alcohol containing 6 to 12 oxyethylene units, such as Laureth-9;
- a polyoxyalkylated derivative of a monoglyceryl ester of a fatty acid such as PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate,
- sarcosinates, such as sodium sarcosinate lauroyl;
- a polyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester and
- mixtures of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a saponifier chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, tromememamine, N-methylglucamine, arginine, lysine, arginine and a combination of these. Composition according to claim 7, in which the molar ratio of the saponifier to the structuring agent selected from C14-C22 saturated fatty acids is between 15% and 50% Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(i) from 1.3% by weight to 4% by weight of at least one structuring agent selected from linear and saturated C14-C18 fatty acids;
(ii) from 0.3% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from alkali metal salts of acrylic acid homopolymers, modified starches and mixtures thereof;
(iii) from 0.8% by weight to 12% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from mono- and polyglyceryl esters of a fatty acid, ethers of a sugar and C8- fatty alcohols C24, polyalkylene glycol fatty acid esters, C14-C24 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof and
(iv) from 12% by weight to 15% by weight of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a combination of these. Non-therapeutic process for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratin materials.