FR3124390A1 - Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol - Google Patents

Abstract

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: - at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, - at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, - at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Transparent cosmetic composition with ascorbic acid, cationic polymer and glycol

The present invention relates to an aqueous transparent cosmetic composition, comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, at least 3.5% by weight of a glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon and at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as an active ingredient that regenerates the skin thanks to the stimulation of the synthesis of collagen responsible for the firmness of the skin, or even as a depigmenting agent, because this vitamin decreases the production of melanin responsible for dark spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

However, when ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives is introduced into an aqueous medium at high levels (i.e. for example greater than 1% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight), its formulation is difficult to achieve. , because it destabilizes and changes color drastically.

This is why aqueous compositions of the serum or solution type are found on the market, which comprise ascorbic acid in the form of a powder to be dissolved extemporaneously. The disadvantage of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up degrading in the aqueous medium. These products thus lose their appeal because consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior manipulation, with the guarantee of color stability and without chemical degradation.

There is therefore a need for stable aqueous compositions comprising ascorbic acid. It is possible to gel the aqueous phase of such compositions by means of a particular cationic polymer, preferably polyquaternium-67. This polymer has the triple advantage of bringing viscosity to the medium and leaving a soft film on the skin and reducing the degradation of the color of ascorbic acid over time.

However, these aqueous compositions of the serum or gelled solution type nevertheless have the disadvantage of forming, when spread on the skin, an inhomogeneous deposit, which whitens during shearing, and which is not satisfactory for the consumer. . Such bleaching is referred to as "soaping" in the present application.

There is therefore a need for an aqueous cosmetic composition comprising ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, which is stable, i.e. which remains of the same color as originally (generally white) and of the same texture, which does not degrade the active ingredient, and which does not soap on application.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the combination of a specific cationic polymer with hexylene glycol and/or pentylene glycol in a content of at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, makes it possible to obtain compositions comprising at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, which are stable, and which do not exhibit soaping on application.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives,

- at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms,

- at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

Preferably, the composition has a pH of between 5 and 7.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

By “physiologically acceptable aqueous medium”, is meant a medium comprising water and compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the appendages.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous solution, more preferably an aqueous solution with a slightly gelled appearance. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is monophasic. This composition can be called "serum". By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, with a slightly gelled, runny appearance, and preferably concentrated in ascorbic acid (i.e. at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of lipophilic phase. By “substantially free of lipophilic phase”, it is meant that the composition according to the invention has a lipophilic phase content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of lipophilic phase.

By "lipophilic phase" is meant a phase comprising at least one lipophilic compound chosen from oils and perfumes.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants", it is meant that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight .

The surfactants can preferably be peptizers whose concentration is between 0.1 and 2% by weight which allow the solubilization of a small quantity of oils, lipophilic compounds or perfume (concentration of perfume or oil between 0, 05% and 2% by weight).

Preferably, the composition of the present invention is transparent.

By transparent composition is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition having a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.

NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement of the turbidity of a composition. The measurement of the turbidity is carried out, for example, with a model 2100P turbidimeter from Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at room temperature (from 20°C to 25°C).

Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 200 NTU, preferably between 1 and 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. Said medium comprises water.

The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/ or natural thermal or mineral water.

The composition preferably comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight.

The composition preferably comprises from 30% to 93% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 70%.

The aqueous phase can also comprise at least one organic solvent soluble in water, at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, certain polyols and mixtures thereof.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C ₁ -C ₁₀ , more preferably C ₁ -C ₅ , alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and their mixtures.

Preferably, the water-soluble organic solvent is a polyol such as glycerol.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 25% by weight of water-soluble organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight.

Glycol comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms.

By glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, is meant a diol comprising a C5 to C7 carbon chain, devoid of ether function, and in which the two hydroxyl groups are carried by different carbon atoms. The C5 to C7 carbon chain can be linear or branched.

Preferably, the glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is hexylene glycol, also called 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, or pentylene glycol (also called pentane-1,2-diol).

2-Methyl-2,4-pentanediol is different from 1,2-hexylene glycol by the location of the hydroxyl groups and by the carbon chain: the hydroxyl groups are positioned at 2 and 4 on the branched carbon chain for 2- methyl-2,4-pentanediol (hexylene glycol), while 1,2-hexylene glycol contains hydroxyl groups in 1 and 2 on the linear carbon chain.

The glycol comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms is present in the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

The composition comprises at least 3.5% by weight of glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it comprises from 4% to 15% by weight of glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 5% to 10% by weight.

Ascorbic acid or its derivatives

The composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

Ascorbic acid within the meaning of the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. Its structure is the formula (I):

The term “ascorbic acid derivative” preferably means a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (in particular sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of DL-alpha -tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate also called Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

By "ascorbyl glucoside" is meant the condensation product of glucose, in the D form, that is to say in the form of α or β glucopyranose or α or β furanose, or in the L form, with the ascorbic acid, preferably in the L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is 2-O-α-D-glucopyranoside of L-ascorbic acid, in particular available from the company HAYASHIBARA.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, preferably L-ascorbic acid.

The composition comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferentially from 9% to 17% by weight.

Cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain

The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, preferably polyquaternium-67.

The cationic polymer according to the invention is a cationic cellulosic polymer modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. Within the meaning of the present invention, a "cationic cellulosic polymer" denotes any non-silicone cellulosic polymer (not comprising any silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and/or groups which can be ionized into anionic groups.

By " cellulosic " polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 sequences of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds. The cellulosic polymer can be associative, that is to say possess in its structure at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain.

The cationic cellulosic polymers which can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 5000 and 5.10 ⁶ approximately, preferably between 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic celluloses, mention may more particularly be made of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may be made in particular of quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :

- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear, C1-C30, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents a counter- anionic ion such as a halide such as chloride or bromide;

- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+–, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear, C1 -C30, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;

it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl;

- n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b, R′c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better in C10-C24, or even in C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl (C12) radical. Preferably, the other radical or radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R′a, R′b, R′c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better in C10-C24, or even in C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl (C12) radical. Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

Even better, R can be a group chosen from –N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- and –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- , preferably a –N ⁺ ( CH ₃ ) ₃ , Q' ^- .

Even better, R' can be a group –N ⁺ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )(CH ₃ ) ₂ , Q' ^- .

The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

Mention may in particular be made of polymers with the INCI name:

- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®;

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and

- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+–. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL.

More particularly, the cationic cellulosic polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses which have reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67).

It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% at 2% by weight.

composition pH

The composition according to the invention preferably has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

The base is in particular used to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide.

Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, on the stabilization of the color (i.e. less yellowing).

Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a base:ascorbic acid weight ratio ranging from 0.22 to 0.30.

The composition may also comprise one or more additive(s) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as, for example, active agents, sequestrants, additional glycols different from the glycols comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms mentioned above, preservatives or even perfumes.

Preferably, among the active agents that can be used, preference is given to adenosine, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide (Vitamin B3), tocopherol or even perfumes.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestrant.

Among the preferred sequestrants, mention may be made of the salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

Ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is a compound of formula (II):

(II)

Preferably, the ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium salts and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more particularly preferred.

Preferably, the salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate.

Such a compound is for example that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest ^E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is understood that the salt content of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of salt of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid introduced into the composition.

According to a particular variant embodiment, the salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 35% to 40% by weight in water.

Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional glycol different from the glycols comprising from 5 to 7 aforementioned carbon atoms. Preferably such a glycol is a glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms, preferably caprylyl glycol.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least caprylyl glycol. Indeed, the presence of caprylyl glycol, coupled with the presence of at least 3.5% by weight of hexylene glycol, promotes obtaining transparent compositions.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 1% by weight of glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one preservative.

Preferred preservatives include hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 1% by weight of preservative (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

EXAMPLES

In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w/w).

Example 1: Compositions according to the invention

Formulas A and B according to the invention below are prepared according to the following protocol:

In a first beaker (phase A):

1. Introduce water (T>60°C) and add the ingredients of phase A in the following order: glycerin, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol at 60°C;

1. Once everything has dissolved and there are no more crystals, allow to cool.

In a second beaker (phase B):

1. Introduce the water at room temperature and add the ascorbic acid;

1. Adjust the pH to 5.8 with soda;

1. Add the polyquaternium-67 with medium and long agitation to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

Mix the two beakers (pour phase A into phase B) and do the QS in water if necessary.

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) Formula A Formula B Formula C AT Water 25 25 25 AT Hexylene glycol 5 5 0 AT Pentylene glycol 0 0 5 AT Glycerin 7 7 7 AT Caprylyl glycol Q's Q's Q's AT Curator(s) Q's Q's Q's AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) Q's Q's Q's B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 12 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5

Example 2: influence of different ingredients on the soaping of aqueous formulas comprising at least 10% ascorbic acid and 0.5% polyquaternium-67

The following comparative compositions are prepared by the following protocol:

Formulas A and B according to the invention below are prepared according to the following protocol:

In a first beaker (phase A):

1. Introduce water (T>60°C) and add the ingredients of phase A in the following order: glycerin, caprylyl glycol, trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol at 60°C;
2. Once everything has dissolved and there are no more crystals, allow to cool.

In a second beaker (phase B):

1. Introduce the water at room temperature and add the ascorbic acid;
2. Adjust the pH to 5.8 with soda;
3. Add the polyquaternium-67 with medium and long agitation to ensure efficient deployment of the polymer.

Mix the two beakers and make the QS in water if necessary.

The appearance of the compositions is assessed with the naked eye.

The effect on soaping was evaluated as follows:

The test was carried out blind on 6 people. Soaping was assessed by applying a drop of product to the hand and shearing rapidly with the other hand until the product penetrated.

Finally, the stability of the compositions was evaluated for up to 2 months at 45°C.

Comparative examples C1 to C4 – effect of oils

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C1

C2 C3
C4
AT Water 25 25 25 25 AT Glycerin 7 7 7 7 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs B Water qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0 0.05 0.2 0.5
VS PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL
(EUMULGIN CO 40 from BASF) 0 5 5 5 Aspect Transparent Transparent Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++ No soaping No soaping Stability Steady Not stable from 5 days Not stable from 5 days Not stable from 5 days

The addition of isopropyl myristate eliminates soaping, but the formulas are not stable.

Comparative examples C5 to C8 – effect of silicone compounds

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C5
C6 C7
C8 AT Water 25 25 25 25 AT Glycerin 7 7 7 7 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs B Water qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 D BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER DIMETHYL SILANE
(DOWSIL 2511 COSMETIC WAX from Dow Corning) 1 0.5 - -
D PEG-12 dimethicone
(Dow Corning 193 Fluid by Dow Corning) - - 1 0, 5 Aspect Transparent Transparent Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++ ++ ++

The addition of silicone compounds, soluble in the composition, does not make it possible to eliminate soaping.

Comparative examples VS 9 to C11 – effect of NaCl or glycerol

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) Formula C9 Formula C10 Formula C11 AT Water 25 25 25 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS NaCl - 1 - VS Glycerin - - 10 Aspect Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++

The addition of NaCl or glycerin does not reduce soaping.

Comparative Examples VS 12 to C1 4 - effect ethanol

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) VS 12 VS 13 VS 14 AT Water 25 25 25 AT Glycerin 7 7 7 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS Ethanol - 5 2.5 Aspect Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++

The addition of ethanol does not reduce soaping.

Comparative Example C1 5 – effect of methyl gluceth-20

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C1 VS 15 AT Water 25 25 AT Glycerin 7 7 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs B Water qsp100 qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 VS Methyl gluceth-20 (Glucam E-20 Humectant from Lubrizol) 0 4 Aspect Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++

The addition of methyl gluceth-20 does not eliminate soaping.

Comparative examples C16 to C19 – effect of polyols

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) Formula C9 C16 C17 AT Water 25 25 25 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 10 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS Propylene glycol - 5 - VS Dipropylene glycol - - 5 Aspect Translucent Translucent Translucent Soaping ++ ++ ++

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C18 C19 AT Water 25 25 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs B Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 B Ascorbic acid 10 10 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 VS Butylene glycol 5 2.5 Aspect Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ ++

The addition of propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or butylene glycol does not reduce soaping.

Examples according to the invention ( C&D ) and comparative C20 – effect of hexylene glycol

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C1
Formula VS C20
Formula D AT Water 25 25 25 25 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs AT Glycerin 7 7 7 7 B Water qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 12 12 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS Hexylene glycol 0 5 2 .5 7 Aspect Transparent Transparent Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ No soaping ++ No soaping

Hexylene glycol has the advantage of reducing soaping or even eliminating soaping, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula.

Examples according to the invention (A and B) and comparisons C12 and C21 – effect of hexylene glycol

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) C12 Formula A C21 Formula B AT Water 25 25 25 25 AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs qs qs AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs qs qs AT Glycerin 7 7 7 7 AT Water Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 Qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 12 12 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 VS Hexylene glycol - 5 - 5 Aspect Translucent Transparent Translucent Transparent Soaping ++ No soaping ++ No soaping

Surprisingly, only hexylene glycol, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula, not only has the advantage of reducing or even eliminating soaping, but also of solubilizing caprylyl glycol to promote serum transparency.

Example E according to the i invention and comparison C22 – effect of pentylene glycol

Phase Ingredients
(% w/w) Formula C22 Formula E AT Water 25 25 AT Pentylene glycol - 5 AT Chelating
(Trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate, Natrlquest® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals) qs qs AT Caprylyl glycol qs qs AT Curator(s) qs qs AT Glycerin 7 7 B Water Qsp100 Qsp100 B Ascorbic acid 15 15 B Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) Qs pH6 Qs pH6 B Polyquaternium-67 (Softcat Polymer SL-100 from Amerchol) 0.5 0.5 Aspect Transparent Transparent Soaping ++ No soaping

Surprisingly, pentylene glycol, at a concentration greater than or equal to 3.5% by weight in the formula, not only has the advantage of reducing or even eliminating soaping, but also of solubilizing caprylyl glycol to promote transparency in serum.

Claims (13)

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:
- at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives,
- at least 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms,
- at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic cellulosic polymers modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, the percentages being by weight relative to the total weight of composition. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, the potassium salt of DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate, ascorbyl phosphate of magnesium, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably from 30% to 93% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 55% to 70%. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises from 4% to 15% by weight of at least one glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms relative to the total weight of the composition, of preferably 5% to 10% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the glycol comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms is hexylene glycol or pentylene glycol, preferably hexylene glycol. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it comprises at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 8% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 9% to 17% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises from 0.05% to 5% by weight of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 3 % by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide:

and preferably from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquaternium-67). Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is substantially free of lipophilic phase, preferably completely free of lipophilic phase. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is transparent. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional glycol different from the glycols comprising from 5 to 7 aforementioned carbon atoms, preferably at least one glycol comprising 8 carbon atoms, preferably at least caprylyl glycol. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 12.