FR3130297A1 - ELASTIC CORD DESIGNED FOR KNITTING AND KIT FOR MANUFACTURING A CLOTHING BY KNITTING COMPRISING SUCH A CORD - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates in particular to an elastic cord (2) for producing a knitted piece (7), in particular a garment. The cord comprises knitted yarns (5; 6) forming interlaced loops, said knitted yarns comprising polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments wrapped over an elastane filament, said polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments being present in mass quantity between substantially 70 and 80% and the elastane filaments being present in a quantity by mass of between substantially 20 and 30%. Figure for abstract: Fig. 2

Description

ELASTIC CORD DESIGNED FOR KNITTING AND KIT FOR MANUFACTURING A CLOTHING BY KNITTING COMPRISING SUCH A CORD

The invention relates to an elastic cord, designed in particular to be knitted in order to produce in particular clothing or underwear.

The term "cord" will be understood to mean a strip of fabric which may be flat or which may be rolled up on itself, made from knitted yarns, the yarns forming loops entangled in each other.

“Ribbon” will be understood as a strip of flat fabric, made up of knitted or woven or non-woven yarns.

Thus, it will be considered that a ribbon is a particular form of cord.

There are fabrics made of knitted yarns that exhibit elastic characteristics that are due to the entanglement of yarn loops. In such fabrics, the threads do not necessarily have an elastic property: the elasticity of the fabric is acquired by the entanglement of the loops of threads.

In contrast, one knows fabrics of fabric, designed from threads which become entangled in each other by crossing along substantially perpendicular lines. Cloth fabrics can exhibit elastic properties, but these properties are due to the elastic properties of the woven yarns.

Nonwoven fabrics are also known, which are made by compacting fibers.

Today there are many types of cords or ribbons that can be knitted to make clothing or decorative items, storage, etc.

We have known for a long time the cords of wool for the realization of clothes in particular.

In recent years, manufacturers have marketed new types of knitting cords and/or ribbons: for the sake of ecology, some cords or ribbons are even made from scrap jersey fabric, in particular, from large textile productions and marketed under the name of trapilho (Portuguese name which means "lirette" in French, designating a fabric or a carpet whose weft is made up of strips of used fabric).

At the origin of the invention, an attempt was made to produce bathing clothes (swimsuits or other clothes intended to be worn in water) which were comfortable, which would deform to best fit the curves of a body while remaining sheathing.

Swimwear is usually made from stretch fabrics. The elasticity of the fabric that is used is important because the bathing garment must stick to the skin of the person wearing it, to maintain its position when the body is in motion both out of the water and in it. 'water.

At the origin of the invention, an attempt was made to produce a different bathing garment, produced not from an elastic fabric as is conventional in itself, but from a new knitted cord, making it possible to a swimwear that has more elasticity and sheathing properties.

However, it turns out that the existing yarns or ribbons are not suitable for making swimwear: the nature of the cord or ribbon does not allow swimwear to be made that is elastic and thin enough to adapt to the morphology of people and to stay in position in the water and out of the water.

The invention therefore proposes a new cord which is suitable for the production of swimwear made by knitting, which has sufficient elasticity to hold as well, or even better, than clothes made from elastic fabrics or non-woven fabrics. elastic woven.

The invention relates for this purpose to an elastic cord, for the production of a knitted piece, in particular a garment or a swimwear.

In accordance with the invention, the elastic cord is remarkable in that it comprises knitted yarns forming interlaced loops, said knitted yarns comprising polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments covered over an elastane filament, said polyamide multifilaments and/or polyester being present in a quantity by mass of between substantially 70 and 80% and the elastane filaments being present in a quantity by mass of between substantially 20 and 30%.

Thus produced, the cord is sufficiently elastic, thin, narrow and long to be able to be knitted without creating thickness or excessive rigidity on the garment, thus allowing the making of a garment close to the body, elastic, all at the same time sheathing and flexible: Indeed, thanks to the composition of the cord, it makes it possible to produce a knitted garment whose elasticity is obtained not only by the nature of the cord which has elasticity in all directions, thanks to the interlaced loop stitches created by the threads from which it is made and thanks to its composition, but also by the stitches obtained with the knitted cord which also allow elasticity in all directions.

Polyamide is a polymer containing amide functions which can result from the polycondensation between the “carboxylic acid” and “amine” functions.

“Polyamide 66” and “polyamide 6” are two types of nylon: “nylon 66” (or “polyamide 66”) is composed of two monomers each containing 6 carbon atoms, hexamethylene diamine and adipic acid.

“Polyamide 11” is a high performance polyamide obtained from castor oil.

Elastane is sometimes called LYCRA®, Spandex or Fiber K, which are names for this material. Elastane is a fiber made from polyurethane and contains PFCs. PFCs are perfluorinated compounds used for their waterproofing properties, but also for their elasticity.

It should be noted that it is particularly complicated to make an elastic cord by knitting it because the prerequisites concerning the composition, the fineness and the elasticity of the material invalidate a certain number of solutions: for example, the synthetic nature of the material LYCRA®, its great elasticity and the fineness of the fabric make certain knitting techniques or cutting ribbon cords invalid because the fabric marks easily. In addition, depending on the direction of the cut, certain fabrics or fabrics lose their elasticity.

Finally, a ribbon containing LYCRA® cannot be put into a ball using the winders usually used in spinning workshops because the LYCRA® ribbon alters the hold of the balls. LYCRA® tape cannot be presented in skeins either, as the skeins would cling to each other.

The cord according to the invention makes it possible to solve these problems and makes it possible not only to create balls, but to combine the elasticity of the threads with which the cord is made, the elasticity of the material of the cord with the elasticity of a knit to obtain a garment that fits and adapts to everyone's morphology, allowing support, comfort and freedom of movement.

In accordance with the invention, too, the cord may also comprise the following characteristics, taken separately or in combination:

• the polyamide multifilaments include polyamide 6, polyamide 66 or polyamide 11 multifilaments,
• yarns comprising polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments wrapped over an elastane filament are knitted using a warp stitch or gathered stitch process;
• the cord has a weight of between substantially 130 and 195 g/m²;
• the bead has a linear density of less than or equal to substantially 10 mg/m;
• the cord has a flat cord width of between substantially 5 and 12 mm, preferably the cord has a flat width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm.

The invention also relates to a piece knitted from at least one cord as defined above.

The invention also relates to a ball made with a cord as defined above.

Furthermore, the invention relates to a kit for making a knitted piece, in particular a garment, from a cord as defined above, said kit comprising at least one ball as defined above, at least one needle of knitting and a notice delivering a process for the realization of said knitted piece.

The kit comprises, in the context of an advantageous embodiment, two circular knitting needles, each of said two needles preferably having a diameter of substantially 4.5 mm, or a diameter of 4.5 mm.

According to a variant embodiment, the kit comprises at least two straight knitting needles.

Finally, the invention relates to a method for producing a knitted piece, in particular a garment, by knitting a cord of fabric as defined above, said method comprising the following steps:
- production of at least two rectangular samples knitted from said cord, said sample comprising a predefined number of rows and a predefined number of stitches on each of the rows,
- comparison of each of said at least two samples with a standard sample, comprising a number of rows corresponding to the predefined number of rows and a number of stitches corresponding to the predefined number of stitches, so as to determine a template of knitted stitches, said template of knitted stitches corresponding to the stitch template of one of said at least two samples having dimensions close to the dimensions of said standard sample, said knitted stitch template being adapted for the production of said knitted piece,
- Knitting at least one knitted piece by making knitted stitches corresponding to said template.

Advantageously, said cord is knitted in seed stitch or garter stitch to produce said knitted piece.

Finally, more preferably, the method comprises the following steps for knitting said at least one knitted piece:
- knitting a circular headband,
- back and forth knitting of two extension parts from said headband,
- Assembly of the two extension parts by sewing by means of said cord.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear on examination of the detailed description of a non-limiting mode of implementation, and of the appended drawings, in which:

shows a kit according to the invention, represented schematically, comprising two balls of a cord according to the invention

shows a ball of the necessities of the and two enlargements of the cord, each enlargement illustrating an example of yarn knitting in accordance with the invention,

shows a yarn in side view, before knitting it to form a cord according to the invention,

shows a jig, shown schematically in front view, in an unstretched state and in a stretched state,

schematically shows the elements made by knitting at each of the steps of a method for making a garment according to the invention by knitting,

illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord according to a first step allowing to bind off the stitches, to produce a reinforcing element of the garment,

illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord following a second step allowing the stitches to be cast off,

illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord following a third step allowing the stitches to be cast off,

illustrates the positioning of the needles and the cord following a fourth step allowing the stitches to be cast off, and

shows the stitch bind-off obtained on the knitted garment portion.

There shows a kit 1 in accordance with the invention, which comprises elements making it possible to make a garment oneself by knitting from at least one elastic cord 2. The kit can also be called a “kit”.

The proposed garment (or knitted piece), in the context of this example of implementation, is women's swimming panties (or swimsuit bottoms).

It should be understood that the invention may extend to kits making it possible to produce other knitted garments, which may or may not be worn in water, or more generally to other knitted parts (not necessarily a garment).

As can be seen on the , the kit 1 comprises two balls 20 of elastic cord 2, a pair of circular knitting needles 3, and instructions 4.

The 3 circular knitting needles have a diameter of 4.5 cm and are connected by a cable 30.

It should be understood that the invention is not limited to circular needles of this diameter, nor moreover to specifically circular needles: they are proposed here for the production of panties. Another type of knitted garment could also be considered without departing from the scope of the invention.

For example, the needles could be straight knitting needles.

The Kit could also include only one needle, for example as part of a kit to make a crochet piece.

The part produced by knitting the elastic cord in accordance with the invention can also be a knitted part intended for furnishing or decoration.

The elastic cord is particularly visible in : the ball 20 is made by winding the cord 2 which is shown substantially flat in the figure. It should be understood that the cord could not be flat and that it could have a volume shape: the cord could twist, for example, without departing from the scope of the invention.

The cord is made with threads that are knitted to form loops with a repeating pattern:

There shows, by way of example, two knitting methods (two models of stitches that can be made to form cord 2). These two models are given by way of illustration. Model A is a knit of yarns (reference 5) with picked stitches and model B is a knit of yarns with warp stitches. In order to clearly distinguish the pattern of the mesh from the model, a thread 5 (among the others) has been represented in a darker gray. Nevertheless, all 5 wires of both models are the same.

Yarns 5 are made from polyamide/polyester multifilaments which are wrapped around an elastane filament.

There schematically shows the composition of a thread 5 which will be knitted to form the elastic cord 2.

Yarn 5 has a core filament which is a 60 spandex filament surrounded by a 60 multifilament comprising polyester and polyamide (or polyester/polyamide multifilament) fibers.

The mass quantity of polyamide/polyester multifilaments is between substantially 70 and 80% (or between 70 and 80%) and the mass quantity of elastane filaments is between substantially 20 and 30% (or between 20 and 30%).

Provision is made for the polyamide fibers that the polyamide/polyester 60 multifilament comprises to comprise “polyamide 6” fibers, or “polyamide 66” fibers or “polyamide 11” fibers.

In addition, provision is made for the polyamide and/or polyester multifilament (reference 60 on the ) and elastane fibers (reference 6 on the ) chosen to make the bead have a linear density less than or equal to substantially 10 mg/m (or equal to 10 mg/m). This corresponds to a maximum of 100 dtex.

Still further, cord 2 has a weight comprised between substantially 130 and 195 g/m² (or a weight comprised between 130 and 195 g/m²).

Thus produced, the cord 2 (with knitted son) is elastically deformable in all directions. However, it remains soft to the touch, resistant, silky and breathable.

The cord obtained can be rolled up on itself to form a ball 20.

To make swimsuit 7 shown in , the cord has a width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm, or a width of 5 mm or 7 mm (in accordance with the invention, the cord width is between substantially 5 and 12 mm, or between 5 and 12mm).

Reference will now be made to an embodiment of a knitted piece according to the invention, the embodiment being presented at least in part on the notice 4 in the kit 1 according to the invention.

By its new nature, the cord is elastic and one must become familiar with the cord to make the knitted piece to the right dimensions, with an adequate cord tension for knitting.

Also, the process includes a step according to which a rectangular sample E must be knitted from the cord, the sample E having to include twelve rows R of thirty-five stitches M each.

There shows sample E1 in solid lines, representing sample E unstretched, and sample E2 in dotted lines, representing sample E stretched.

During knitting, the cord 2 is more or less pulled/tightened between the fingers of the person and around the needles, to make the stitches. The sample obtained then has more or less tight stitches, which leads to the production of a rectangular sample with a sample length L and a sample width l.

When the sample length L corresponds to a predetermined length L1, when the sample is not stretched (sample E1) and the sample width l corresponds to a width l1, on the one hand, and
when the sample length L corresponds to a predetermined length L2, when the sample is stretched (sample E2) and the sample width l corresponds to a width l2, on the other hand, this means that the sample made has stitches whose gauge corresponds to the ideal gauge for making the knitted piece.

In the context of this example, in accordance with the method of the invention, the knitted sample comprising twelve rows R of thirty-five stitches each, unstretched (that is to say that no action is made on it: the sample is measured by being placed flat on a flat support) has a length preferably between 16 and 17 cm. If this observation is made, then the sample is stretched and its length L2 is measured again: if the length L2 of the sample is between 33 and 38 cm, then the stitches made can be used as a reference, as a template, to make the knitted pieces of the model to be made because the sample made corresponds to the appropriate model.

In other words, the person will have to exert the same tensile force on the cord during knitting in order to achieve the model at the right size and obtain a model with the desired technical sheathing effects.

The elements of the pants 7 can then be knitted by the person using the stitch template as that of the sample made and corresponding to the "model" sample dimensions indicated in the notice 4.

A concrete example of a knitted swimsuit 7 is now described with reference to the .

Panty 7 is made in five steps:

The first step consists in knitting a cord element 70, the second step consists in knitting a first trapezium element 71, a third step consists in knitting a second trapezium element 72 extended by a rectangular part 73, a fourth step consists in assembling by sewing 74 the elements 71, 72 and 73 and, following a fifth step, the knitted stitches are folded over the second trapezoidal element 72 to create reinforcement lines 75 of knitted stitches on the swimming pants 7.

All elements 70 to 73 are knitted by making stitches corresponding to the stitch gauge of the sample.

The cord element 70 is knitted by making forty-six rows of circles each comprising between one hundred and seven and one hundred and thirty-nine stitches.

The number of stitches per row corresponds to a garment size, from size S (for “small”) to size XL (for “extra large”).

The first trapezium element 71 has between thirty and forty-six rows R of stitches M, including a lower row 76 and an upper row 77.

In the context of this embodiment, said lower row 76 comprises twelve stitches M and said upper row 77 comprises between seventy-eight and one hundred and nine stitches M, depending on the size of the swimming pants chosen.

The second trapezoidal element 72, extended by a rectangular part 73, comprises between thirty-six and thirty-nine rows R of stitches M and said rectangular part comprising twenty-two rows R of twelve stitches M.

Among said between thirty-six and thirty-nine rows R of stitches M, said second element 72 comprising an upper end row of stitches 78 comprising between twenty-nine and thirty stitches M.

The assembly of the elements (cord element 70, first trapezium element 71 and second trapezium element 72 extended by the rectangular part 73) is done by sewing 75 (using a needle 74), using a length cord 2.

To do this, it is planned to bind off the stitches of the free edge of the rectangular part 73 and those of the lower row 76 of the first trapezium element 71: Figures 5 to 9 show, by way of example, how the casting off stitches M:

The operation is performed using three needles 31, 32 and 33.

The needles 31 and 32 are each inserted into a last line formed by stitches (that of the free edge of the rectangular part 73 and those of row 76).

The two rows of stitches are placed side by side.

There illustrates how the third needle 33 is placed: the third needle is inserted into the last two stitches formed at the ends of the two needles 31 and 32.

We then knit together the first two stitches of each needle 31 and 32 with the third needle 33, to obtain a stitch M1 on the third needle 33 (see )

Then, as shown in , the operation is repeated on the following stitches, i.e. the two end stitches of needles 31 and 32 are knitted with the third needle 33.

There illustrates the two stitches M1 and M2 obtained on the third needle 33.

There shows that the first stitch M1 is then slipped under the second stitch M2 to obtain a cast-off stitch M3.

There shows us the result obtained: a line of stitches in thickness is created by this operation and constitutes a line of seam 75 on the knit.

The knitted piece 7 thus produced has several technical features which are not found in other swimwear: in fact, the nature of the cord according to the invention (that is to say its composition), the production of the cord by knitting yarns, the production of a knitted part with the cord and the choice of stitches or knitting techniques applied to this cord give the knitted part an elasticity and an elastic deformation which give the knitted part incomparable properties in term of comfort and adaptation to the silhouette of a body.

It is understood from the preceding description how the cord makes it possible to produce knitted pieces and in particular swimwear which are close to the body, sheathing, conformable and modular: the elastic characteristics of the cord, combined with the characteristics of a piece obtained by knitting , ensure the creation of a garment that adapts to all body types without leaving unsightly marks. The stitches made with the cord can be moved manually by pulling on certain parts of the knitted piece, to make the knitted piece denser in some places and more flexible in others, allowing the person wearing the knitted piece to conform it manually to adapt it to her body and obtain zones of flexibility or material density of the part on the body at the places she wishes.

In other words, the fact of adding meshes makes the material denser and thus makes it possible to create reserves of elasticity which make it possible to support variations in weight/size in the same person or can be distributed according to differences in morphology.

It should however be understood that the invention is not limited to the two examples represented and described previously: it extends to the implementation of any equivalent means.

Claims (14)

Elastic cord (2) for producing a knitted piece (7), in particular a garment, said cord (20) being characterized in that it comprises knitted threads (5; 6) forming interlaced loops, said knitted threads comprising polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments wrapped over an elastane filament, said polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments being present in an amount by mass of between substantially 70 and 80% and the elastane filaments being present in an amount by mass of between between substantially 20 and 30%. Elastic cord (2) according to Claim 1, characterized in that the polyamide multifilaments comprise multifilaments of polyamide 6, of polyamide 66 or of polyamide 11. Elastic cord (2) according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the threads (5; 6) comprising the polyamide and/or polyester multifilaments covered over an elastane filament are knitted using a warp stitch or picked stitches. Elastic cord (2), according to Claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that it has a weight of between approximately 130 and 195 g/m². Elastic cord (2) according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it has a linear density less than or equal to substantially 10 mg/m. Elastic cord (2) according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it has a flat cord width of between substantially 5 and 12 mm, preferably the cord has a flat width of substantially 5 mm or substantially 7 mm. Piece knitted from at least one cord according to any one of the preceding claims. Ball (20) made with a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6. Kit (1) for making a knitted piece (7) according to claim 7, in particular a garment, from a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, said kit (1) comprising at least one ball (20) according to claim 8, at least one knitting needle (3, 31, 32, 33) and a notice (4) delivering a method for producing said knitted piece (7). Kit (1) according to Claim 9, characterized in that it comprises two circular knitting needles (3), each of the said two needles (3) preferably having a diameter of 4.5 mm. Kit (1) according to Claim 9, characterized in that it comprises at least two straight knitting needles (31, 32, 33). Method for producing a knitted piece (7), in particular a garment, by knitting a cord (2) of fabric according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, the said method comprising the following steps:
- production of at least two rectangular samples (E) knitted from said cord (2), said sample (E) comprising a predefined number of rows (R) and a predefined number of stitches (M) on each of the rows,
- comparison of each of said at least two samples with a standard sample, comprising a number of rows corresponding to the predefined number of rows and a number of stitches corresponding to the predefined number of stitches, so as to determine a template of knitted stitches, said template of knitted stitches corresponding to the stitch template of one of said at least two samples having dimensions close to the dimensions of said standard sample, said knitted stitch template being adapted for the production of said knitted piece (7),
- Knitting at least one knitted piece by making knitted stitches corresponding to said template. Method according to Claim 12, characterized in that the said cord is knitted in seed stitch or in garter stitch to produce the said knitted piece (7). Method according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it comprises the following steps for knitting said at least one knitted piece (7):
- knitting a circular headband,
- back and forth knitting of two extension parts from said headband,
- Assembly of the two extension parts by sewing by means of said cord.