FR3129080A1 - EMULSIFIABLE CONCENTRATED COSMETIC COMPOSITION TO DILUTE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted in a predefined volume of water. The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, in particular obtained by diluting the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention in water, as well as a method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition. the use according to the invention and its use as a cosmetic composition suitable, in particular, for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and/or of the face, or of the hair.

Description

EMULSIFIABLE CONCENTRATED COSMETIC COMPOSITION TO DILUTE

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to an emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition, to be diluted in a predefined volume of water.

The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, in particular obtained by diluting the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention in water, as well as a method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition. the use according to the invention and its use as a cosmetic composition suitable, in particular, for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and/or of the face, or of the hair.

STATE OF THE ART

In recent years, consumers have had a better knowledge and awareness of the cosmetic products they use and the naturalness or the ecological impact of the product have become particularly important criteria.

In 2016, French production of plastic packaging amounted to 2.2 million tonnes, including 1.2 million tonnes of household plastic packaging. At the current rate, it is estimated that in 2050, the production and incineration of plastic worldwide, packaging or not, could emit 2.8 billion tonnes of CO ₂ per year. In order to reduce the impact of plastic pollution on nature on the one hand and greenhouse gas emissions on the other, it is necessary to move away from the model of single-use plastic packaging and identify alternatives. with less impact on the environment.

Thus, alternatives such as the use of biodegradable plastics, materials that can be recycled after consumption or even reusable packaging have emerged in recent years.

Emulsions represent a particularly widespread galenic and are present in many cosmetic products such as skin care products, hair care products or sun protection products.

An emulsion is a dispersion of liquid droplets in a continuous liquid medium, the two liquids often being water and oil. The phase contained in the droplets is called “dispersed phase”, and that which constitutes the dispersion medium is called “dispersing phase” or “continuous phase”. Emulsions are often stabilized by surfactant molecules having their hydrophilic part in contact with the aqueous phase and their hydrophobic part in contact with the oily phase. In the context of the formulation of emulsions, they will often be called “emulsifier”. There are two “directions”: oil-in-water where the dispersed phase is the oily phase, and water-in-oil where the dispersed phase is the aqueous phase.

Cosmetic emulsions are mainly emulsions of the oil-in-water type containing an aqueous continuous phase (water, aqueous phase gelling agent, humectant) and a fatty dispersed phase (emollient, wax, O/W emulsifier, fatty phase gelling agent).

As with the majority of cosmetic or household products, emulsions are made up of approximately 80% water. Thus, an alternative to reduce the amount of plastic per packaging compared to an equivalent standard product, would be to eliminate the water from the products and keep only the fatty phase containing the active raw materials. Indeed, products in concentrated or refill format, lighter and less bulky, not only reduce the quantities of plastic but also reduce the overall carbon footprint over the complete life cycle of the product and therefore meet new expectations. consumers.

Another major drawback of emulsions comes from their often energy-intensive manufacturing process, the aqueous phase and the fatty phase being heated to around 70 – 80°C then emulsified under high shear for a fairly long time, often more than 10 minutes, and at hot, in order to obtain an emulsion fine enough to avoid any stability problem.

To overcome these drawbacks and with the aim of reducing the environmental impact linked to the manufacture, packaging and transport of this type of product, cold emulsifiable concentrates have been developed.

For example, patent FR2838653 is known relating to a process for preparing an emulsion by dilution in an aqueous phase of an emulsifiable concentrate comprising an amphiphilic copolymer, in order to produce emulsions, which can be used in particular in the phytosanitary field. However, the dilution operation according to patent FR2838653 requires agitation by means of a pale frame (agitation at 200 rpm for 5 min).

Patent US6989149 is also known relating to an emulsifiable concentrate comprising a cosmetic active ingredient, in particular a hair active ingredient to be diluted in an aqueous composition comprising additional ingredients. However, the emulsifiable concentrate according to patent US6989149 must be diluted either directly before or during application to the substrate to be treated, suggesting a low stability of the emulsion obtained.

We also know the application WO03/043725 relating to a concentrate of emulsifiers to be diluted cold in a cosmetic composition in order to reconstitute an emulsion having properties of reinforcement and thickening of the lipid layer. However, the concentrate according to application WO03/043725 is not satisfactory in the sense that the addition of additional ingredients is necessary, this not going in the direction of reducing the environmental impact.

Thus, the cold emulsifiable concentrates known from the prior art are not completely satisfactory in the sense that mechanical stirring or the addition of additional ingredients are often necessary, thus making it difficult to reconstitute the final product by an user.

There is therefore a need for a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted at home in a predefined volume of water, in order to reconstitute a stable and ready-to-use emulsion, suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and/or face, or hair.

The present invention therefore aims to provide a liquid, cold-emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition comprising at least one fatty substance; a combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; and at least one preservative.

Advantageously, the concentrated cosmetic composition according to the present invention is liquid and allows, after dilution in a predefined volume of water, the reconstitution of a stable emulsion, that is to say not exhibiting any phenomenon of phase shift, coalescence, coagulation or sedimentation of the oil droplets over a sufficient period to be able to be stored before and/or during use, without altering the properties obtained after dilution, in terms of pH, viscosity or organoleptic properties and allowing good compliance with the mode of use of the reconstituted product.

Another advantage is that the emulsion obtained by the dilution of the emulsifiable concentrate according to the invention is ready for use, that is to say that it does not require the addition of ingredients other than the volume of water needed to dilute the emulsifiable concentrate.

Yet another advantage is that the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention can be stored and used just like a conventional cosmetic product with a use-by date greater than one month, preferably greater than 12 months.

SUMMARY

The invention relates to a concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted, comprising:

• from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty substance;
• from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; And
• from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative,

the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

According to one embodiment, said combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent comprises from 10% to 99% of at least one thickening and/or gelling agent and 1% to 90% of at least one emulsifying agent, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said combination.

According to one embodiment, said at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent is chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; chemically transformed semi-synthetic or natural-origin gelling agents; salts; or a mixture of these.

According to one embodiment, said at least one emulsifying agent is chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, said at least one fatty substance is chosen from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones, pasty fats or butters or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises from 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending and/or anti-caking agent chosen from organic and mineral lipophilic suspending and/or anti-caking agents , waxes that are solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s, measured at 20° C. and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a spindle of type 2, at a speed of 50 rpm.

The invention also relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition, comprising a concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention and water in a ratio of the concentrated cosmetic composition to water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably from 1:5 to 1:15.

According to one embodiment, the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 500 mPas.s, measured at 20° C. and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a Mobile type 5, at a speed of 20 rpm.

The invention also relates to a method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a step of diluting the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention in a predefined volume of water, and a step stirring the mixture obtained.

In one embodiment, the dilution is carried out in a suitable container such as a pot, a flask, a vial or a bottle, at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 100°C, preferably from 17°C to 50 ° C and the step of stirring the mixture obtained consists of a simple manual stirring of said container, carried out by a user for a time of less than five minutes, preferably less than two minutes.

These embodiments are advantageous because they make it possible to obtain a ready-to-use cosmetic composition by a very energy-efficient process, that is to say by cold dilution and minimal agitation on the part of the user. .

The invention also relates to the use of the ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention as a cosmetic product suitable for the cosmetic care of the skin of the body and/or the face or the hair.

The present invention also relates to a kit for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprising a first container, comprising an emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to the invention and a second container intended to receive a necessary volume of water. to the dilution of the concentrated cosmetic composition.

DEFINITIONS

In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

The terms "aqueous phase gelling agent" and "aqueous phase thickening agent" relate to ingredients capable of modifying the rheology and/or increasing the viscosity of a liquid aqueous composition. The “aqueous phase gelling agents” and/or “aqueous phase thickener” are of terrestrial plant origin (carob), marine plant (alginate), animal (gelatin), biofermentative (xanthan), mineral (silica, salts), synthetic (carbomer), and all confer specific sensory characteristics that can be combined by associating them in the composition. Non-exhaustively, the thickening agents can also include all combinations of raw materials making it possible to increase the viscosity of the aqueous system, such as combinations of surfactants.

The term “gel” relates to a homogeneous, isotropic, rigid, vibrating and elastic medium. A gel is a three-dimensional network of solids diluted in a fluid exhibiting no flow when in a steady state. In bulk, gels are mainly made up of liquid, but have a behavior close to that of solids thanks to their entangled three-dimensional network within the liquid. It is these tangles that give gels their structure and contribute to their adhesion. Within the meaning of the invention, a gel has a viscosity greater than 1000 mPa.s.

The term "emulsifying agent" relates to amphiphilic substances soluble in water and/or fatty substances having the particularity of aggregating at the interfaces between water and fatty substances or between fatty substances and water, promoting the formation and/or stabilization of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion. In the context of the present invention, the emulsifying agent is chosen from chemical emulsifiers such as anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof; or physical emulsifiers, i.e. solid particles which adsorb at the interface between water and fatty substances, such as clays, latex or cellulose nanoparticles.

The term "preservative agent" concerns any substance capable of opposing alterations of physical origin such as photodegradation or otherwise called UV filters; chemicals such as transformation by oxidation-reduction reaction with air, a component or a container or otherwise called an antioxidant agent; or microbiological effects of a product such as spoilage by bacteria and fungi or otherwise known as an antimicrobial agent. Within the meaning of the invention, the preservative can be chosen from the preservatives listed in annexes V and VI of regulation EU 1223/2009 relating to cosmetic products and/or any other preservative agents known to those skilled in the art such as than conservation boosters.

The term "suspensing agent" relates to any substance which makes it possible to prevent or limit the sedimentation of the particles over time in order to have a uniform distribution of the product at the time of use or at least to facilitate its re-homogenization. The term “anti-caking agent” relates to any substance making it possible to limit the agglutination of the particles in the composition and thus ensure its fluidity. Thus, suspending and/or anti-caking agents relate to substances capable of modifying the rheology of a liquid composition. Within the meaning of the invention, the suspending and/or anti-caking agent is chosen from organic and mineral lipophilic suspending and/or anti-caking agents, semi-synthetic or chemically transformed compounds of natural origin, waxes that are solid at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof.

The term "comprise" and its variations should be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and/or components. In some embodiments, the term comprise may be interpreted as "consisting essentially of".

The term "fluid" or "liquid" refers to a system that is neither solid nor thick, having the property of flowing easily. Within the meaning of the invention, a "fluid" or a "liquid" has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s.

The term "viscosity" relates to all the phenomena of resistance to the movement of a fluid for a flow with or without turbulence. According to the invention, the viscosity of the concentrated cosmetic composition is measured at ambient temperature (20° C.) and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 spindle, at a speed of 50 revolutions/minute and with a type 5 spindle, at a speed of 20 revolutions/minute for the ready-to-use cosmetic composition.

Claims (10)

Concentrated emulsifiable cosmetic composition, to be diluted, comprising:

• from 20% to 99% of a fatty phase composed of at least one fatty substance;
• from 0.5% to 50% of a combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent and at least one emulsifying agent; And
• from 0.5% to 50% of at least one preservative,

the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated cosmetic composition. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said combination of at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent and of at least one emulsifying agent comprises from 10% to 99% of at least one thickening agent and/or or gelling agent and from 1% to 90% of at least one emulsifying agent, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of said combination. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the said at least one aqueous-phase thickening and/or gelling agent is chosen from synthetic gelling agents, natural gelling agents; chemically transformed semi-synthetic or natural-origin gelling agents; salts; or a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the said at least one emulsifying agent is chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, cationic surfactants or a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the said at least one fatty substance is chosen from alkanes; fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, synthetic triglycerides, oils such as non-silicone mineral, vegetable, animal and synthetic oils, non-silicone waxes, silicones, pasty fats or butters or a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, additionally comprising from 0.1% to 10% of at least one suspending agent and/or at least one anti-caking agent chosen from lipophilic suspending and/or anti-caking agents organic and mineral waxes, solid waxes at room temperature, butters or a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has a viscosity of less than 1000 mPa.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 2 Mobile, at a speed of 50 rpm. Ready-to-use cosmetic composition, comprising a concentrated cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 and water in a ratio of the concentrated cosmetic composition to water ranging from 1:2 to 1:20, preferably from 1:5 to 1:15. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that it has a viscosity greater than 500 mPas.s, measured at 20°C and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 5 spindle, at a speed of 20 rpm. Method for preparing a ready-to-use cosmetic composition according to claim 8 or claim 9, comprising a step of diluting in a predefined volume of water the emulsifiable concentrated cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 , and a step of stirring the mixture obtained, characterized in that the dilution is carried out in a suitable container such as a jar, a flask, a vial or a bottle, at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 100°C , preferably from 17° C. to 50° C. and in that the step of agitating the mixture obtained consists of simple manual agitation of said container, carried out by a user for a time of less than 5 minutes, preferably less than 2 minute.