FR3127126A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL WITH SELF-FOAMING PROPERTIES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant; at least one fatty substance; at least one neutralizing agent; at least one gelling agent and at least one liquefied gas.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A GEL WITH SELF-FOAMING PROPERTIES

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant; at least one fatty substance; at least one neutralizing agent; at least one gelling agent and at least one liquefied gas.

STATE OF THE ART

In recent years, consumers have had better knowledge and awareness of the ecological impact of the products they use and the naturalness of cosmetic products has become one of their priorities. Thus, the identification of natural molecules with functions similar to synthetic molecules becomes a major problem within the cosmetics industry.

Indeed, if consumers are looking for more and more naturalness in their cosmetic products, they do not compromise on the performance and sensoriality of the products. Thus, one of the current challenges of the cosmetics industry is to develop natural products that are just as effective as synthetic products.

According to a recent study by Kline, the men's cosmetics market has undergone significant change in recent years to become one of the most dynamic segments of the beauty industry. With more than 6% growth, the shaving products category is the second fastest growing category after skincare. Among these shaving products, shaving gels are of growing interest to consumers.

A shave gel is an oil-in-water microemulsion. The fatty phase contains a self-foaming agent which is a liquefied and solubilized gas. A shaving gel is delivered in the form of a gel, called a bondillon, which does not foam until it is spread on the skin on which it turns into a foam. The transformation of the gel into a foam is linked to the evaporation of the liquefied gases dissolved in the formula.

Nevertheless, the composition of shaving products remains controversial. Indeed, these products contain molecules criticized by consumers such as triethanolamine, ethoxylated compounds or mineral oils.

In particular, exposure to triethanolamine or its vapors may cause irritation of the skin, eyes and respiratory tract. Repeated or prolonged exposure to this product may have a defatting action on the skin and cause redness, cracking and peeling. In addition, triethanolamine is a highly controversial base since it is considered to be a source of nitrosamines, carcinogenic compounds classified by the WHO (World Health Organization).

In order to overcome the irritating effects, alternatives to conventional shaving gels have been developed. For example, applications WO96/0932 and FR2931666 are known relating to soap-free shaving gels, comprising N-acylsarcosines and making it possible to obtain a thick and rigid self-foaming gel. However, in order to improve their solubility, the N-Acylsarcosines are combined with an inorganic or organic base, which is preferably triethanolamine.

However, a disadvantage of soap-free shaving gels is the difficulty in obtaining a foam as consistent and dense as a classic shaving foam.

For example, application WO2016120552 relating to a self-foaming shaving gel composition without triethanolamine is known. In particular, a mixture of soda and potash is used as a neutralizing agent for fatty acids and in particular oleic acid, making it possible to obtain a dense and stable foam. However, the shaving gel composition according to application WO2016120552 does not allow the return of a gel plug with satisfactory properties for comfortable use for the user.

Thus, there is a need for a shaving gel formulation that meets the growing consumer demand for naturalness and without triethanolamine, possessing organosensory properties and stability similar to, or even superior to, those of shaving gels composed of an acid fat neutralized with triethanolamine.

The present invention therefore aims to provide such a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming and non-irritating properties for the skin, particularly a shaving gel.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a gel that is sufficiently fluid to be packaged and sufficiently thick to guarantee pleasant application, this optimal rheology being obtained by the combination of a sugar derivative and an ester of glycerol, allowing an optimal solubilization of the liquefied gas in the formula and the restitution of a stable foam after evaporation of the liquefied gas.

Another advantage is that the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise triethanolamine as an essential component of the composition and has a naturalness of more than 90% according to the ISO16128 standard, this thanks to the elimination of controversial molecules such as the compounds ethoxylates, silica, BHT, paraffin oil or sulphated surfactants.

SUMMARY

The invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising:

• a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters;
• at least one fatty substance chosen from saturated fatty acids with 10 to 24 carbon atoms;
• at least one neutralizing agent chosen from an organic base from the amine family, with the exception of triethanolamine;
• at least one gelling agent; And
• at least one liquefied gas chosen from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, said combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, said combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant comprises from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said combination, of at least one sugar derivative .

According to one embodiment, said at least one fatty substance is present in an amount of between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from sugar amines, amino acids and amino acid derivatives.

According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is a sugar amine chosen from N,N-dimethylglucamine, methylglucamine or hydroxyethylglucamine.

According to one embodiment, said at least one neutralizing agent is present in an amount of between 3% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in a ratio of neutralizing agent relative to the fatty substance of between 0 ,3 and 3.

According to one embodiment, the said at least one liquefied gas is a mixture of isopentane and isobutane and is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises formulation water, at least one humectant, at least one emollient, at least one coloring agent and at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic active agents such as fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity greater than 10,000 mPa.s.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a pH of between 8.0 and 10.0.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shaving gel.

DEFINITIONS

In the present invention, the terms below are defined as follows:

The term “sugar amine” relates to sugars in which an alcohol function is substituted by an amine. In one embodiment, the sugar amine is a hexosamine. In a preferred embodiment, the sugar amine is a hexosamine derived from glucose, particularly derived from sorbitol in which the hydroxyl group at position 1 is replaced by an alkylamine group.

The term "amino acid" relates to an alpha-amino carboxylic acid, that is to say a molecule comprising a carboxylic acid functional group and an amine functional group in the alpha position of the carboxylic acid group, for example a proteinogenic amino acid or a non-proteinogenic amino acid such as 2-aminoisobutyric acid.

The term "proteinogenic amino acid" refers to an amino acid that is incorporated into proteins during the translation of messenger RNA by ribosomes in living organisms, i.e. Alanine (ALA), Arginine (ARG) , Asparagine (ASN), Aspartate (ASP), Cysteine (CYS), Glutamate (glutamic acid) (GLU), Glutamine (GLN), Glycine (GLY), Histidine (HIS), Isoleucine (ILE), Leucine (LEU), Lysine (LYS), Methionine (MET), Phenylalanine (PHE), Proline (PRO), Pyrrolysine (PYL), Selenocysteine (SEL), Serine (SER), Threonine (THR), Tryptophan (TRP), Tyrosine (TYR) or Valine (VAL).

The term “gelling agent” relates to ingredients capable of modifying the rheology and/or increasing the viscosity of a liquid composition. They therefore have a strong impact on the sensory descriptors of the texture, in particular those concerning the feelings at the time of setting or spreading. The "gelling agents" are of terrestrial vegetable origin (carob), marine vegetable (alginate), animal (gelatin), biofermentative (xanthan), mineral (silica, salts), synthetic (carbomer), and all confer specific sensory characteristics that can be combined by associating them in the composition. Non-exhaustively, the thickening agents can also include all combinations of raw materials making it possible to increase the viscosity of the aqueous system, such as combinations of surfactants. Non-limiting examples of these combinations of surfactants include the combination of surfactants from the family of isethionates, alkyl betaines, alkylpolyglusides and alkanolamides.

The term “neutralizing agent” relates, within the meaning of the invention, to an organic base allowing the total or partial neutralization of the fatty substance leading to the formation of a soap. Within the meaning of the invention, the neutralizing agent is chosen from an organic base of the amine family, with the exception of triethanolamine.

The term "comprise" and its variations should be understood according to the present invention as not excluding the presence of other steps and/or components. In some embodiments, the term comprise may be interpreted as "consisting essentially of".

The term “fatty substance” relates to a compound which, associated with the neutralizing agent, forms in situ a soft anionic emulsifier (soap) essential for forming the structure of the gel. Within the meaning of the invention, the fatty substance is chosen from saturated fatty acids with 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

The term “gel” relates to a homogeneous, isotropic, rigid, vibrating and elastic medium. A gel is a three-dimensional network of dilute solids in a fluid that exhibit no flow when in a steady state. In bulk, gels are mainly made up of liquid, but have a behavior close to that of solids thanks to their entangled three-dimensional network within the liquid. It is these tangles that give gels their structure and contribute to their adhesion. A “self-foaming gel” relates to a composition having a gel texture which transforms into a foam when spread on the skin.

The term "liquefied gas" relates to compounds that help obtain the self-foaming effect, because they allow the gel bondillon to be transformed into a foam by volatilizing during application. The most used gases are generally saturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having between 4 and 6 carbon atoms. The gases used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are hydrocarbons having boiling points below 30° C. such as, for example, isobutane or even isopentane.

The term “natural ingredient” relates to ingredients of vegetable, animal and mineral origin as well as micro-organisms. These ingredients have not been processed to modify them chemically. The term "Ingredient of Natural Origin" relates to ingredients obtained from natural ingredients by chemical and/or biological processes. An ingredient is considered to be a natural derivative when it contains more than 50% of ingredients of natural origin. The NF ISO 16128 standard, guidelines relating to technical definitions and criteria applicable to natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products, describes the methods for calculating the Natural, Natural, Organic and Organic Origin Indexes. From these are calculated percentages of naturalness and organic character in a finished product.

The term “surfactant” relates to substances which reduce the surface tension of a liquid or the interfacial tension between two phases and which facilitate or aid in the formation of dispersions or emulsions. This means in particular that the term "surfactants" in the context of the present invention also includes substances which are usually referred to as emulsifiers. Within the meaning of the invention, the surfactant is chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, or nonionic surfactants.

The term “viscosity” relates to all the phenomena of resistance to the movement of a fluid for a flow with or without turbulence. According to the invention, the viscosity is measured at ambient temperature (20° C.) and at ambient pressure, using a Brookfield RV DV viscometer with a type 3 Spindle, at a speed of 100 revolutions/minute. Within the meaning of the invention, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition is greater than 1000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 5000 mPa.s, more preferably greater than 10000 mPa.s.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition in the form of a gel with self-foaming properties, comprising:

• a combination of at least one sugar derivative and at least one surfactant chosen from glycerol esters;
• at least one fatty substance chosen from saturated fatty acids with 10 to 24 carbon atoms;
• at least one neutralizing agent chosen from an organic base from the amine family, with the exception of triethanolamine;
• at least one gelling agent; And
• at least one liquefied gas chosen from propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane or a mixture thereof.

Composition according to Claim 1, in which the said combination of at least one sugar derivative and of at least one surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, in which the said combination of at least one sugar derivative and of at least one surfactant comprises from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the said combination, of at least one sugar derivative. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the said at least one fatty substance is present in an amount of between 5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the said at least one neutralizing agent is chosen from among sugar amines, amino acids and amino acid derivatives. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein said at least one neutralizing agent is a sugar amine selected from N,N-dimethylglucamine, methylglucamine or hydroxyethylglucamine. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the said at least one neutralizing agent is present in an amount of between 3% and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and in a ratio of neutralizing agent compared to the fatty substance between 0.3 and 3. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the said at least one liquefied gas is a mixture of isopentane and isobutane and is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, further comprising water for formulation, at least one humectant, at least one emollient, at least one coloring agent and at least one ingredient chosen from cosmetic active agents such as fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, stabilizers, chelators, pH adjusting agents or a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the said composition has a viscosity greater than 10,000 mPa.s.