FR3128122A1 - Active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum escule n tum acting on the elasticity of the skin, cosmetic compositions comprising it and corresponding uses. - Google Patents

Active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum escule n tum acting on the elasticity of the skin, cosmetic compositions comprising it and corresponding uses. Download PDF

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FR3128122A1
FR3128122A1 FR2110990A FR2110990A FR3128122A1 FR 3128122 A1 FR3128122 A1 FR 3128122A1 FR 2110990 A FR2110990 A FR 2110990A FR 2110990 A FR2110990 A FR 2110990A FR 3128122 A1 FR3128122 A1 FR 3128122A1
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extract
active principle
skin
composition
synthesis
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FR3128122B1 (en
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Antoine Gedouin
Romuald Vallee
Pierre-Yves Morvan
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Societe de Courtage et de Diffusion SAS CODIF International
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Societe de Courtage et de Diffusion SAS CODIF International
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/70Polygonaceae (Buckwheat family), e.g. spineflower or dock
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
  • Medical Informatics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Material From Animals Or Micro-Organisms (AREA)

Abstract

L’invention concerne un principe actif comprenant un extrait de Fagopyrum esculentum agissant sur l’élasticité de la peau. L’invention concerne également les compositions le comprenant. L’invention concerne encore les utilisations cosmétiques d’un tel principe actif et/ou de telles compositions, pour maintenir et/ou rétablir l’élasticité naturelle de la peau.The invention relates to an active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum acting on the elasticity of the skin. The invention also relates to the compositions comprising it. The invention also relates to the cosmetic uses of such an active ingredient and/or of such compositions, for maintaining and/or restoring the natural elasticity of the skin.

Description

Principe actif comprenant un extrait deFagopyrumesculentumagissant sur l’élasticité de la peau, compositions cosmétiques le comprenant et utilisations correspondantes.Active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrumesculentum acting on the elasticity of the skin, cosmetic compositions comprising it and corresponding uses.

Le domaine de l’invention est celui de la cosmétologie. Plus précisément, l’invention concerne un principe actif comprenant un extrait deFagopyrum esculentumagissant sur l’élasticité de la peau, les compositions le comprenant, ainsi que les utilisations cosmétiques d’un tel principe actif et/ou de telles compositions, pour maintenir et/ou rétablir l’élasticité naturelle de la peau.The field of the invention is that of cosmetology. More specifically, the invention relates to an active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum acting on the elasticity of the skin, the compositions comprising it, as well as the cosmetic uses of such an active principle and/or such compositions, for maintaining and/or restore the natural elasticity of the skin.

Un tel principe actif permet en effet de stimuler l’expression de certains gènes impliqués dans la synthèse de l’élastine.Such an active principle makes it possible to stimulate the expression of certain genes involved in the synthesis of elastin.

Art AntérieurPrior Art

Avec l'âge et les expositions chroniques aux stress environnementaux, les fibroblastes du derme de la peau produisent de moins en moins de fibres et d’éléments de la matrice extracellulaire, laquelle est impliquée dans le soutien structural, l'adhérence, le mouvement et la régulation des cellules, et les fibres produites sont de plus en plus endommagées. C’est particulièrement le cas de la peau fine et fragile, telle que celle du contour de l’œil. La synthèse de créatine par les cellules de la peau et la fonction barrière de la peau sont également perturbées.With age and chronic exposure to environmental stresses, fibroblasts in the dermis of the skin produce less and less fibers and elements of the extracellular matrix, which is involved in structural support, adhesion, movement and cell regulation, and the fibers produced are increasingly damaged. This is particularly the case for thin and fragile skin, such as that around the eye area. Creatine synthesis by skin cells and the barrier function of the skin are also disturbed.

Il en résulte une peau qui perd de son élasticité, et qui présente alors un aspect fatigué, stressé, paraissant manquer de vitalité et d’éclat.This results in skin that loses its elasticity, and which then presents a tired, stressed appearance, appearing to lack vitality and radiance.

On connaît dans l’art antérieur de nombreuses compositions cosmétiques intégrant des extraits de plantes ayant une action sur l’élasticité de la peau. Il existe ainsi des compositions cosmétiques ayant des effets d'amélioration de l'élasticité de la peau comprenant un extrait de chèvrefeuille, un extrait de fleur de jasmin arabe et un extrait de peau de pomme. Il existe également de telles compostions comprenant un extrait de son de riz, un extrait de feuille de bambou noir, un extrait d'encens et/ou un extrait de feuille deThamnolia vermicularis. Il existe encore des compositions cosmétiques destinées à améliorer l'élasticité de la peau et à réduire les rides, contenant de l'Euterpe oleracea(palmier açaï), duCitrus aurantiifolia(citron vert), de l'églantier et de l'extrait de fleur d'Hibiscus syriacusascomme ingrédients actifs.Many cosmetic compositions incorporating plant extracts having an action on the elasticity of the skin are known in the prior art. There are thus cosmetic compositions having effects of improving the elasticity of the skin comprising an extract of honeysuckle, an extract of Arabian jasmine flower and an extract of apple skin. There also exist such compositions comprising a rice bran extract, a black bamboo leaf extract, an incense extract and/or a Thamnolia vermicularis leaf extract. There are still cosmetic compositions intended to improve the elasticity of the skin and reduce wrinkles, containing Euterpe oleracea (acai palm), Citrus aurantiifolia (lime), rosehip and extract of Hibiscus syriacusas flower as active ingredients.

Un objectif de la présente invention est de proposer une alternative à de tels extraits et compositions cosmétiques.One objective of the present invention is to provide an alternative to such extracts and cosmetic compositions.

En effet, il existe un besoin fort et constant pour des compositions cosmétiques efficaces comprenant des actifs naturels en lieu et place de composés chimiques de synthèse.Indeed, there is a strong and constant need for effective cosmetic compositions comprising natural active agents instead of synthetic chemical compounds.

Description de l’inventionDescription of the invention

Cet objectif est atteint grâce à l’invention qui concerne un principe actif comprenant un extrait deFagopyrum esculentum(ouPolygonum fagopyrum) stimulant la synthèse d’élastine par les fibroblastes du derme.This objective is achieved thanks to the invention which relates to an active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum (or Polygonum fagopyrum ) stimulating the synthesis of elastin by the fibroblasts of the dermis.

Les inventeurs ont en effet découvert que des extraits deFagopyrum esculentumont une action sur certains gènes présents dans les fibroblastes du derme humain, impliqués dans la synthèse de l’élastine.The inventors have in fact discovered that extracts of Fagopyrum esculentum have an action on certain genes present in the fibroblasts of the human dermis, involved in the synthesis of elastin.

On notera qu’il est connu de l’art antérieur que certains extraits deFagopyrum esculentumpermettent d’inhiber la lipogenèse, c’est à dire le processus de synthèse des lipides, et notamment celle des triglycérides, se produisant au niveau des adipocytes du derme humain. Il est également connu que de tels extraits peuvent aussi stimuler la lipolyse, c’est-à-dire la dégradation de ces triglycérides. Des compositions cosmétiques contenant de tels extraits ont donc été fabriquées et commercialisées pour des effets sur la peau exploitant ces actions sur la lipogenèse et sur la lipolyse. Ainsi, on connaît des compositions cosmétiques renfermant de tels extraits et ayant pour effet, grâce à une application topique régulière sur la peau, d’affiner la silhouette. On connaît également d’autres compositions cosmétiques renfermant de tels extraits ayant pour effet, grâce à une application topique régulière sous les yeux, de réduire les poches graisseuses pouvant être présentes sous les yeux.It will be noted that it is known from the prior art that certain extracts of Fagopyrum esculentum make it possible to inhibit lipogenesis, that is to say the process of synthesis of lipids, and in particular that of triglycerides, occurring at the level of the adipocytes of the human dermis. It is also known that such extracts can also stimulate lipolysis, that is to say the degradation of these triglycerides. Cosmetic compositions containing such extracts have therefore been manufactured and marketed for effects on the skin exploiting these actions on lipogenesis and on lipolysis. Thus, cosmetic compositions containing such extracts and having the effect, thanks to regular topical application to the skin, of refining the silhouette are known. Other cosmetic compositions containing such extracts are also known which have the effect, thanks to regular topical application under the eyes, of reducing the fatty pockets which may be present under the eyes.

Par contre, à la connaissance de la Demanderesse, il n’avait jamais été mis en lumière que des extraits deFagopyrum esculentumpouvaient agir sur les fibroblastes du derme en stimulant l’expression de gènes impliqués dans la synthèse de l’élastine.On the other hand, to the knowledge of the Applicant, it had never been brought to light that extracts of Fagopyrum esculentum could act on the fibroblasts of the dermis by stimulating the expression of genes involved in the synthesis of elastin.

Également, il a été découvert qu’un tel extrait deFagopyrum esculentumpermet de stimuler l’expression de certains gènes impliqués dans la fonction barrière de la peau, notamment un gène codant pour une enzyme impliquée dans la synthèse de l’acide hyaluronique, et donc de contribuer à renforcer cette fonction. La fonction barrière de la peau a un rôle de protection de l’organisme contre les agressions physiques, tels que le stress mécanique, les changements de température, ou encore les UV, également contre les agressions chimiques, tels que les produits toxiques et les allergènes, et encore contre les agents infectieux. Elle dépend de l’état de la couche cornée de la peau, qui constitue une barrière hydrique partiellement perméable.Also, it has been discovered that such an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum makes it possible to stimulate the expression of certain genes involved in the barrier function of the skin, in particular a gene coding for an enzyme involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, and therefore help to strengthen this function. The barrier function of the skin has a role in protecting the body against physical attacks, such as mechanical stress, temperature changes, or even UV rays, also against chemical attacks, such as toxic products and allergens , and again against infectious agents. It depends on the state of the stratum corneum of the skin, which constitutes a partially permeable water barrier.

L’extrait selon l’invention permet également, outre son rôle sur la stimulation de la synthèse de l’élastine, de réduire la perte en eau de la peau, et donc de pallier à la déshydratation de celle-ci.The extract according to the invention also makes it possible, in addition to its role in stimulating the synthesis of elastin, to reduce the loss of water from the skin, and therefore to compensate for the dehydration of the latter.

Il a aussi été découvert qu’un tel extrait deFagopyrum esculentumpermet de stimuler l’expression de certains gènes impliqués dans la synthèse de créatine et donc de stimuler la synthèse de créatine par les cellules de la peau. La créatine, dérivé d’acide aminé naturel, est présente principalement dans les fibres musculaires et le cerveau, mais elle est également présente dans la peau. Elle joue un rôle important dans l’apport d’énergie aux cellules, en maintenant élevées les fonctions vitales des cellules, les mécanismes cellulaires impliqués dans la réparation et les processus de défense, et dans la synthèse de biomolécules importantes, tel que le collagène.It has also been discovered that such an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum makes it possible to stimulate the expression of certain genes involved in the synthesis of creatine and therefore to stimulate the synthesis of creatine by the cells of the skin. Creatine, a natural amino acid derivative, is present mainly in muscle fibers and the brain, but it is also present in the skin. It plays an important role in providing energy to cells, maintaining high vital cell functions, cellular mechanisms involved in repair and defense processes, and in the synthesis of important biomolecules, such as collagen.

Ainsi l’invention repose sur une approche originale ayant consisté à étudier l’effet de l’application topique d’extraits deFagopyrum esculentum sur l’expression de gènes impliqués dans la synthèse de l’élastine par les fibroblastes du derme, ainsi que certains gènes impliqués dans la synthèse de la créatine par la peau et ceux impliqués dans la préservation de la fonction barrière de celle-ci.Thus the invention is based on an original approach having consisted in studying the effect of the topical application of extracts ofFagopyrum esculentum on the expression of genes involved in the synthesis of elastin by dermal fibroblasts, as well as certain genes involved in the synthesis of creatine by the skin and those involved in the preservation of its barrier function.

Ainsi, un premier objet concerne un principe actif comprenant un extrait deFagopyrum esculentumstimulant la synthèse d’élastine par les fibroblastes du derme.Thus, a first object relates to an active principle comprising an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum stimulating the synthesis of elastin by the fibroblasts of the dermis.

Selon un mode de réalisation, cet extrait deFagopyrum esculentumest un extrait obtenu par extraction au dioxyde de carbone (CO2) supercritique.According to one embodiment, this extract of Fagopyrum esculentum is an extract obtained by extraction with supercritical carbon dioxide (CO 2 ).

Selon un autre mode de réalisation, cet extrait deFagopyrum esculentumest un extrait huileux.According to another embodiment, this extract of Fagopyrum esculentum is an oily extract.

Selon l’invention, le principe actif stimule préférentiellement l’expression du gène ELN codant pour l’élastine.According to the invention, the active principle preferentially stimulates the expression of the ELN gene coding for elastin.

Selon l’invention, le principe actif stimule préférentiellement, de plus, l’expression du gène HAS2, codant pour l’enzyme Hyaluronic acid synthase 2, impliquée dans la synthèse de l’acide hyaluronique.According to the invention, the active ingredient preferentially stimulates, in addition, the expression of the HAS2 gene, coding for the enzyme Hyaluronic acid synthase 2, involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

Selon encore un autre mode de réalisation, ce principe actif stimule préférentiellement, de plus, l’expression de gènes des fibroblastes du derme, choisis parmi GATM codant pour la glycine amidinotransférase et GAMT codant pour la guanidinoacétate N-méthyltransférase, impliquées dans la synthèse de la créatine.According to yet another embodiment, this active ingredient preferentially stimulates, in addition, the expression of genes of dermal fibroblasts, chosen from GATM coding for glycine amidinotransferase and GAMT coding for guanidinoacetate N-methyltransferase, involved in the synthesis of creatine.

Un deuxième objet concerne une composition cosmétique pour application topique comprenant un principe actif tel que décrit précédemment, ainsi qu’un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, cette composition étant destinée à améliorer l’élasticité de la peau.A second subject relates to a cosmetic composition for topical application comprising an active principle as described previously, as well as a physiologically acceptable medium, this composition being intended to improve the elasticity of the skin.

Selon un mode de réalisation, l’extrait deFagopyrum esculentumest présent à une concentration comprise entre 0,01% et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence entre 0,1% et 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to one embodiment, the extract of Fagopyrum esculentum is present at a concentration of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Un troisième objet concerne l’utilisation d’un principe actif tel que décrit précédemment en tant qu’ingrédient actif cosmétique.A third object concerns the use of an active principle as described above as a cosmetic active ingredient.

Un quatrième objet concerne l’utilisation d’une composition telle que décrite précédemment en tant que composition cosmétique destinée à être appliquée sur la peau saine, et notamment sur le contour des yeux.A fourth object concerns the use of a composition as described above as a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to healthy skin, and in particular to the eye contour.

Claims (11)

Principe actif caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend un extrait deFagopyrum esculentumstimulant la synthèse d’élastine par les fibroblastes du derme.Active principle characterized in that it comprises an extract of Fagopyrum esculentum which stimulates the synthesis of elastin by the fibroblasts of the dermis. Principe actif selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que ledit extrait est un extrait obtenu par extraction au CO2supercritique.Active principle according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said extract is an extract obtained by supercritical CO 2 extraction. Principe actif selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que ledit extrait est un extrait huileux.Active principle according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the said extract is an oily extract. Principe actif selon l’une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu’il stimule l’expression du gène ELN codant pour l’élastine.Active principle according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it stimulates the expression of the ELN gene coding for elastin. Principe actif selon l’une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu’il stimule l’expression du gène HAS2 codant pour l’enzyme de synthèse de l’acide hyaluronique Hyaluronic acid synthase 2.Active principle according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it stimulates the expression of the HAS2 gene coding for the enzyme for the synthesis of hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid synthase 2. Principe actif selon la revendication 1 à 5, caractérisé en qu’il stimule l’expression de gènes choisis parmi GATM codant pour la glycine amidinotransférase et GAMT codant pour la guanidinoacétate N-méthyltransférase, impliquées dans la synthèse de la créatine.Active principle according to Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it stimulates the expression of genes chosen from GATM coding for glycine amidinotransferase and GAMT coding for guanidinoacetate N-methyltransferase, involved in the synthesis of creatine. Composition cosmétique pour application topique comprenant un principe actif selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6 et un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, ladite composition étant destinée à améliorer l’élasticité de la peau.Cosmetic composition for topical application comprising an active principle according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 and a physiologically acceptable medium, the said composition being intended to improve the elasticity of the skin. Composition selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce ledit extrait est présent à une concentration comprise entre 0,01% et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition, de préférence entre 0,1% et 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition.Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the said extract is present at a concentration of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Utilisation d’un principe actif selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6 en tant qu’ingrédient actif cosmétique.Use of an active principle according to any one of Claims 1 to 6 as a cosmetic active ingredient. Utilisation d’une composition selon la revendication 7 ou 8 en tant que composition cosmétique destinée à être appliquée sur la peau saine.Use of a composition according to Claim 7 or 8 as a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to healthy skin. Utilisation selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce qu’elle est destinée à être appliquée sur le contour des yeux.Use according to Claim 10, characterized in that it is intended to be applied to the eye contour.
FR2110990A 2021-10-15 2021-10-15 Active ingredient comprising an extract of Fagopyrum escule n tum acting on the elasticity of the skin, cosmetic compositions comprising it and corresponding uses. Active FR3128122B1 (en)

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FR2110990A FR3128122B1 (en) 2021-10-15 2021-10-15 Active ingredient comprising an extract of Fagopyrum escule n tum acting on the elasticity of the skin, cosmetic compositions comprising it and corresponding uses.
FR2110990 2021-10-15

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA2358158A1 (en) * 2001-10-02 2003-04-02 Fytokem Products Inc. Elastase inhibitors
KR20070014412A (en) * 2005-07-28 2007-02-01 재단법인춘천바이오산업진흥원 Functional cosmetic composition comprising extract of fagopyrum esculentum

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA2358158A1 (en) * 2001-10-02 2003-04-02 Fytokem Products Inc. Elastase inhibitors
KR20070014412A (en) * 2005-07-28 2007-02-01 재단법인춘천바이오산업진흥원 Functional cosmetic composition comprising extract of fagopyrum esculentum

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Title
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ANONYMOUS: "RAW MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION 1. TRADE NAME : CIRE DE BLE NOIR / BUCKWHEAT WAX - ALG114 Item: Plant concentrate - Cosmetic application", CODIF TECHNOLOGIE NATURELLE, 4 May 2016 (2016-05-04), XP055934828, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.codif-tn.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/CIRE-DE-BLE-NOIR-FICHE-TECH-1.pdf> *
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