FR3124701A1 - Moisturizing cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Moisturizing cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
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- FR3124701A1 FR3124701A1 FR2107186A FR2107186A FR3124701A1 FR 3124701 A1 FR3124701 A1 FR 3124701A1 FR 2107186 A FR2107186 A FR 2107186A FR 2107186 A FR2107186 A FR 2107186A FR 3124701 A1 FR3124701 A1 FR 3124701A1
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- 238000003379 elimination reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001339 epidermal cell Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000002657 fibrous material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000014509 gene expression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000003780 hair follicle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940100463 hexyl laurate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000002433 hydrophilic molecules Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002209 hydrophobic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- YODZNEIDVLFIIC-UHFFFAOYSA-N icosan-10-yl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(CCCCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCC YODZNEIDVLFIIC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000003000 inclusion body Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 229940100554 isononyl isononanoate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N isopropyl palmitate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC(C)C XUGNVMKQXJXZCD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940060384 isostearyl isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000007246 mechanism Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000021332 multicellular organism growth Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000005474 octanoate group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003016 phosphoric acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- IUGYQRQAERSCNH-UHFFFAOYSA-M pivalate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)C([O-])=O IUGYQRQAERSCNH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- FBCQUCJYYPMKRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N prop-2-enyl 2-methylprop-2-enoate Chemical compound CC(=C)C(=O)OCC=C FBCQUCJYYPMKRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XLCIFRJORZNGEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-2-yl 2-[dodecanoyl(methyl)amino]acetate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N(C)CC(=O)OC(C)C XLCIFRJORZNGEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000010453 quartz Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010526 radical polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001105 regulatory effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940071089 sarcosinate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N sarcosine Chemical compound C[NH2+]CC([O-])=O FSYKKLYZXJSNPZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000001732 sebaceous gland Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N silicon dioxide Inorganic materials O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000005846 sugar alcohols Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000000106 sweat gland Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- VPYJNCGUESNPMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N triallylamine Chemical compound C=CCN(CC=C)CC=C VPYJNCGUESNPMV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZTWTYVWXUKTLCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N vinylphosphonic acid Chemical compound OP(O)(=O)C=C ZTWTYVWXUKTLCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
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- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
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- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
Abstract
Composition cosmétique hydratante Composition hydratante comprenant, dans un milieu aqueux physiologiquement acceptable : - au moins un gélifiant hydrophile, - au moins une première huile choisie parmi les huiles d’origine végétale, - au moins un alcool primaire, - au moins un polyol, et - au moins une seconde huile choisie parmi les monoesters d’acide gras. Figure pour l'abrégé : NéantMoisturizing cosmetic composition Moisturizing composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, - at least one first oil chosen from oils of plant origin, - at least one primary alcohol, - at least one polyol, and - at least one second oil chosen from fatty acid monoesters. Figure for abstract: None
Description
La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques, typiquement des compositions hydratantes, sous forme de gel aqueux dans lequel des gouttelettes d’huile sont dispersées.The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, typically moisturizing compositions, in the form of an aqueous gel in which oil droplets are dispersed.
La peau est un tissu dont les cellules sont jointives, et solidaires les unes des autres. Le tissu cutané forme un revêtement externe comprenant des glandes sébacées ou sudoripares, et les follicules pileux. La peau, et notamment le cuir chevelu, sont des épithéliums à renouvellement continuel. Le renouvellement, ou desquamation, est un processus coordonné et finement régulé aboutissant à l’élimination des cellules superficielles, de façon insensible et non visible.The skin is a tissue whose cells are contiguous, and solidary with each other. The skin tissue forms an outer covering comprising sebaceous or sweat glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and in particular the scalp, are epithelia with continual renewal. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process resulting in the elimination of superficial cells, in a imperceptible and invisible way.
La peau humaine est constituée de deux compartiments à savoir un compartiment superficiel, l'épiderme, et un compartiment profond, le derme.Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.
L’épiderme est conventionnellement divisé en une couche basale de kératinocytes constituant la couche germinative de l’épiderme, une couche dite épineuse constituée de plusieurs couches de cellules polyhédriques disposées sur les couches germinatives, une à trois couches dites granuleuses constituées de cellules aplaties contenant des inclusions cytoplasmiques distinctes, les grains de kératohyaline et enfin, un ensemble de couches supérieures appelées couches cornées (ou stratum corneum), constituée de kératinocytes au stade terminal de leur différenciation appelés cornéocytes.The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spiny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the grains of keratohyaline and finally, a set of upper layers called stratum corneum (or stratum corneum), made up of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.
Les cornéocytes sont des cellules anucléées principalement constituées d’une matière fibreuse contenant des cytokératines, entourée d’une enveloppe cornée. Il y a en permanence production de nouveaux kératinocytes pour compenser la perte en continu de cellules épidermiques au niveau de la couche cornée selon un mécanisme dénommé desquamation.Corneocytes are anucleate cells mainly made up of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a horny envelope. There is a permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells at the level of the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.
Toutefois, un déséquilibre entre la production des cellules au niveau de la couche basale et le taux de desquamation peut notamment conduire à des formations d’écailles à la surface de la peau. De même, un déficit de différentiation terminale des cellules du stratum corneum, pour diverses raisons, peut conduire à la formation d’amas de cellules de grandes tailles, épais, visibles à l’œil nu, et dénommés « squames », ou dans d’autres situations, à un amincissement du stratum corneum. Cela peut aboutir à une fragilité des propriétés barrières de l’épiderme, à une déshydratation chronique du stratum corneum, une perte d’élasticité mécanique, des tiraillements, ainsi qu’à un manque d’éclat et de transparence de la peau. A titre d’exemple de facteurs favorisant cette altération de la qualité de surface de la peau, on peut mentionner le stress, la période hivernale, un excès de sébum, un défaut d’hydratation ; cela peut également être le cas des peaux sèches de sujets âgés.However, an imbalance between the production of cells at the level of the basal layer and the rate of desquamation can in particular lead to the formation of scales on the surface of the skin. Similarly, a lack of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum, for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick clusters of cells, visible to the naked eye, and called "squames", or in d 'other situations, to a thinning of the stratum corneum. This can lead to a fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, to chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum, a loss of mechanical elasticity, tightness, as well as a lack of radiance and transparency of the skin. By way of example of factors favoring this alteration of the surface quality of the skin, we can mention stress, the winter period, excess sebum, lack of hydration; this may also be the case for the dry skin of elderly subjects.
Il existe donc un besoin pour des compositions améliorant l'état d’hydratation de la peau, en évitant les tiraillements et les sensations d'inconfort lors de leur application sur la peau. Il existe en outre un besoin pour des compositions hydratantes qui soient fraîches à l’application, non collantes, et qui ne contiennent pas de composé siliconé.There is therefore a need for compositions that improve the state of hydration of the skin, by avoiding tightness and feelings of discomfort when they are applied to the skin. There is also a need for moisturizing compositions which are fresh on application, non-sticky, and which do not contain a silicone compound.
Les inventeurs ont maintenant découvert qu’une composition sous forme de gel, qui ne contient substantiellement pas de tensioactif et/ou de composé siliconé, et comprend des gouttelettes d’huile en dispersion dans une phase aqueuse, permet d’hydrater la peau de manière satisfaisante tout au long de la journée et de lui conférer une sensation de fraîcheur, tout en étant non grasse et non collante à l’application. En outre, de telles compositions sont translucides.The inventors have now discovered that a composition in gel form, which contains substantially no surfactant and/or silicone compound, and comprises droplets of oil dispersed in an aqueous phase, makes it possible to moisturize the skin in a satisfactory throughout the day and give it a feeling of freshness, while being non-greasy and non-sticky on application. Furthermore, such compositions are translucent.
Ainsi, la présente invention a pour objet une composition, de préférence cosmétique, comprenant, dans un milieu aqueux physiologiquement acceptable :Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:
- au moins un gélifiant hydrophile,- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent,
- au moins une première huile choisie parmi les huiles d’origine végétale,- at least one first oil chosen from oils of plant origin,
- au moins un alcool primaire,- at least one primary alcohol,
- au moins un polyol, et- at least one polyol, and
- au moins une seconde huile choisie parmi les esters d’acide gras.- at least one second oil chosen from fatty acid esters.
La composition selon l’invention comprend un milieu aqueux physiologiquement acceptable.The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.
Par « milieu aqueux physiologiquement acceptable », on entend au sens de l’invention un milieu aqueux compatible avec les matières kératiniques, notamment avec la peau et/ou les phanères.By “physiologically acceptable aqueous medium”, is meant in the sense of the invention an aqueous medium compatible with keratin materials, in particular with the skin and/or the superficial body growths.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en poids par rapport au poids total de composition :According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition:
- de 50 % à 90 % d’eau,- from 50% to 90% water,
- de 0,1 % à 5% de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s),- from 0.1% to 5% of hydrophilic gelling agent(s),
- de 0,5 % à 20 % d’huile(s) d’origine végétale,- from 0.5% to 20% vegetable oil(s),
- de 0,5 % à 20 % d’alcool(s) primaire(s),- from 0.5% to 20% primary alcohol(s),
- de 0,5 à 20 % de polyol(s), et- from 0.5 to 20% of polyol(s), and
- de 0,5 % à 20 % de monoester(s) d’acide gras.- from 0.5% to 20% fatty acid monoester(s).
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en poids par rapport au poids total de composition :Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition:
- de 55 % à 85% d’eau,- from 55% to 85% water,
- de 0,5 % à 3 % en poids de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s),- from 0.5% to 3% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s),
- de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids d’huile(s) d’origine végétale,- from 0.7% to 15% by weight of oil(s) of vegetable origin,
- de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids d’alcool(s) primaire(s),- from 0.7% to 15% by weight of primary alcohol(s),
- de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 15 % en poids de polyol(s), et- from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight of polyol(s), and
- de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids de monoester(s) d’acide gras.- from 0.7% to 15% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s).
Plus préférentiellement, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en poids par rapport au poids total de composition :More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition:
- de 60 % à 80% en poids d’eau,- from 60% to 80% by weight of water,
- de 0,3 % à 2 % en poids de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s),- from 0.3% to 2% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s),
- de 1 % à 10% en poids d’huile(s) d’origine végétale,- from 1% to 10% by weight of oil(s) of vegetable origin,
- de 1 % à 10% en poids d’alcool(s) primaire(s),- from 1% to 10% by weight of primary alcohol(s),
- de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 3 % à 10% en poids de polyol(s), et- from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight of polyol(s), and
- de 1 % à 10 % en poids de monoester(s) d’acide gras.- from 1% to 10% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s).
Selon un mode de réalisation encore préféré, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en poids par rapport au poids total de composition :According to an even preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition:
- de 60 à 80 % d’eau,- 60 to 80% water,
- de 0,3 à 2 % en poids de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s),- from 0.3 to 2% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s),
- de 1 à 10 % en poids d’huile(s) d’origine végétale,- from 1 to 10% by weight of oil(s) of vegetable origin,
- de 1 à 10 % en poids d’alcool(s) primaire(s),- from 1 to 10% by weight of primary alcohol(s),
- de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 15 % en poids, de préférence de 3 % à 10 % en poids de polyol(s), et- from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight of polyol(s), and
- de 1 à 10 % en poids de monoester(s) d’acide gras.- from 1 to 10% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s).
La présente invention a également pour objet un procédé cosmétique de soin des matières kératiniques, de préférence de la peau, comprenant l’application sur lesdites matières kératiniques d’une composition selon l’invention.A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.
La présente invention a enfin pour objet l’utilisation cosmétique d’une composition selon l’invention pour hydrater la peau, en particulier le stratum corneum.Finally, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for moisturizing the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.
La composition selon l'invention est typiquement sous forme de gel, et comprend des agents gélifiants hydrophiles. Par « agent gélifiant hydrophile » ou « gélifiant hydrophile », on entend au sens de la présente invention un composé hydrophile qui permet d'augmenter significativement la viscosité de la composition.The composition according to the invention is typically in the form of a gel, and comprises hydrophilic gelling agents. By “hydrophilic gelling agent” or “hydrophilic gelling agent”, is meant within the meaning of the present invention a hydrophilic compound which makes it possible to significantly increase the viscosity of the composition.
ViscositéViscosity
Les compositions selon l’invention présentent de préférence une viscosité comprise entre 30 et 90 Poises (1 Poise = 0,1 Pa s), de préférence entre 40 et 80 Poises, de préférence entre 50 et 70 Poises.The compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of between 30 and 90 poise (1 poise=0.1 Pa s), preferably between 40 and 80 poise, preferably between 50 and 70 poise.
Le protocole de mesure de la viscosité est le suivant :The viscosity measurement protocol is as follows:
La viscosité est mesurée avec un viscosimètre Rhéomat équipé d’un mobile 2, 3 ou 4. Les mesures sont effectuées à une température de 25°C +/- 0.5°C après 10 minutes de rotation du mobile à la vitesse de 200 tours/minute.The viscosity is measured with a Rhéomat viscometer fitted with a spindle 2, 3 or 4. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 25°C +/- 0.5°C after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle at a speed of 200 revolutions/ minute.
De préférence, la composition de l’invention est translucide.Preferably, the composition of the invention is translucent.
Par composition translucide, on entend au sens de la présente invention une composition présentant une valeur de transmittance moyenne dans le domaine du visible (entre 400 et 800 nm) allant de 9% à 19%.By translucent composition is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition having an average transmittance value in the visible range (between 400 and 800 nm) ranging from 9% to 19%.
La mesure de la transmittance moyenne d’une composition dans le domaine du visible est typiquement mesurée à l’aide d’un spectrophotomètre CARY 5000 (Agilent Technologies) fonctionnant sur une plage de longueur d’ondes couvrant le domaine du visible, c’est-à-dire de 400 nm à 800 nm. La composition à analyser est placée dans une cuve de quartz dont le trajet optique est égal à 10 mm. La transmittance de l’échantillon est ensuite mesurée sur l’intégralité de la gamme de longueurs d’onde allant de 400 nm à 800 nm. La valeur de transmittance moyenne de la composition est enfin calculée en faisant la moyenne de la transmittance mesurée pour chacune des longueurs d’ondes.The measurement of the average transmittance of a composition in the visible range is typically measured using a CARY 5000 spectrophotometer (Agilent Technologies) operating on a range of wavelengths covering the visible range, that is i.e. from 400 nm to 800 nm. The composition to be analyzed is placed in a quartz cell whose optical path is equal to 10 mm. The transmittance of the sample is then measured over the entire wavelength range from 400 nm to 800 nm. The average transmittance value of the composition is finally calculated by taking the average of the transmittance measured for each of the wavelengths.
De préférence, la composition est translucide et présente une valeur de transmittance moyenne dans le domaine du visible allant de 10% à 18%, plus préférentiellement allant de 15 % à 18%, typiquement environ égale à 17%.Preferably, the composition is translucent and has an average transmittance value in the visible range ranging from 10% to 18%, more preferably ranging from 15% to 18%, typically approximately equal to 17%.
La composition selon l'invention est typiquement un gel comprenant une phase aqueuse continue, dans laquelle des gouttelettes huileuses sont dispersées. De préférence, le gel est substantiellement exempt de tensioactifs.The composition according to the invention is typically a gel comprising a continuous aqueous phase, in which oily droplets are dispersed. Preferably, the gel is substantially free of surfactants.
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention comprend des gouttelettes d’huile dispersées dans la phase aqueuse continue, lesdites gouttelettes ayant un diamètre moyen en nombre de 150 µm ou moins, et plus préférablement 100 µm ou moins, de préférence compris entre 1 µm et 100 µm, mesuré par granulométrie à laser ou par microscopie optique. Typiquement, la composition selon l’invention comprend des gouttelettes d’huile dispersées ayant un diamètre moyen en nombre de 1 µm à 100 µm, mesuré par granulométrie à laser ou par microscopie optique.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises droplets of oil dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase, said droplets having a number-average diameter of 150 μm or less, and more preferably 100 μm or less, preferably comprised between 1 μm and 100 µm, measured by laser granulometry or by optical microscopy. Typically, the composition according to the invention comprises dispersed oil droplets having a number-average diameter of 1 μm to 100 μm, measured by laser granulometry or by optical microscopy.
Les constituants de la composition selon l'invention sont maintenant décrits plus en détails.The constituents of the composition according to the invention are now described in more detail.
Phase aqueuseAqueous phase
La composition selon l’invention comprend une phase aqueuse.The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention comprend une phase aqueuse continue.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
La phase aqueuse comprend au moins de l’eau, au moins un alcool primaire et au moins polyol.The aqueous phase comprises at least water, at least one primary alcohol and at least polyol.
L’alcool primaire est, de préférence, choisi parmi les alcools primaires en C1-C10, plus préférentiellement en C1-C5, tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le propanol et le butanol. Avantageusement, l’alcool primaire est de l’éthanol.The primary alcohol is preferably chosen from C 1 -C 10 primary alcohols, more preferably C 1 -C 5 primary alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol. Advantageously, the primary alcohol is ethanol.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids d’alcool(s) primaire(s), par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 1 % à 10% en poids.Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of primary alcohol(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.7% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight.
Le polyol est, de préférence, choisi parmi les polyols ayant de 2 à 20 atomes de carbone, plus préférentiellement de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone, comme le glycérol, le diglycérol, le propylèneglycol, l'isoprène glycol, le dipropylèneglycol, le butylène glycol, l'hexylène glycol, le 1,3-propanediol, le pentylène glycol, les polyéthylèneglycols ayant de 2 à 200 motifs d’oxyde d’éthylène et leurs mélanges. Avantageusement, le polyol est le glycérol.The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 units of ethylene oxide and their mixtures. Advantageously, the polyol is glycerol.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids de polyol(s), par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 1 % à 15 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 3 % à 10% en poids.Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of polyol(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 3% to 10 % in weight.
La composition comprend de préférence de 50 % à 90% en poids d’eau par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 55 à 85%, encore plus préférentiellement de 60 % à 80%.The composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 55 to 85%, even more preferably from 60% to 80%.
Phase huileuseOil phase
La composition selon l’invention comprend au moins une phase huileuse, de préférence dispersée dans la phase aqueuse sous la forme de gouttelettes.The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oily phase, preferably dispersed in the aqueous phase in the form of droplets.
La composition selon l’invention comprend une phase huileuse comprenant au moins une première huile d’origine végétale et au moins une seconde huile choisie parmi les monoesters d’acide gras. Bien entendu, la première huile d’origine végétale est différente de la seconde huile choisie parmi les esters d’acide gras.The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least one first oil of plant origin and at least one second oil chosen from fatty acid monoesters. Of course, the first oil of plant origin is different from the second oil chosen from fatty acid esters.
Par « huile » on entend un composé non aqueux, liquide à 25°C et pression atmosphérique (1,013.105Pa), non miscible à l’eau.By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa), immiscible with water.
Par « non miscible », on entend que le mélange de la même quantité d’eau et d’huile, après agitation, ne conduit pas à une solution stable ne comprenant qu’une seule phase, dans les conditions de température et de pression précitées. L’observation est faite à l’œil ou au moyen d’un microscope à contraste de phase si nécessaire, sur 100g de mélange obtenu après une agitation Rayneri suffisante pour faire apparaitre un vortex au sein du mélange (à titre indicatif 200 à 1000 tr/min) ; le mélange résultant étant laissé au repos, dans un flacon fermé, pendant 24 heures à température ambiante avant observation.By "immiscible", it is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. . The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri agitation sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (as an indication 200 to 1000 rev /min); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed flask, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.
De préférence, la première huile et/ou la seconde huile sont choisies parmi les huiles non volatiles. Par « huile non volatile », on entend une huile dont la pression de vapeur à 25°C et pression atmosphérique, est non nulle et inférieure à inférieure à 10-3mm de Hg (0,13 Pa).Preferably, the first oil and/or the second oil are chosen from non-volatile oils. By “non-volatile oil”, is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than less than 10 −3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).
Les huiles végétales sont constituées de mélanges de triglycérides, c’est-à-dire d’esters de glycérol et d’acide gras.Vegetable oils are made up of mixtures of triglycerides, i.e. esters of glycerol and fatty acids.
L’huile d’origine végétale est, de préférence, choisie parmi l'huile d'olive; l'huile d'avocat; l'huile d'argan; l'huile de camélia, l'huile de graines de coton, l'huile de son de riz, l'huile de germes de maïs, l'huile de germes de blé, l'huile de passiflore, l'huile de soja, l'huile d'arachide, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de graine de citrouille, l'huile de sésame, l'huile de babassu, l'huile de coco, l'huile de colza, l'huile d'amande douce, l’huile de noix, l’huile d’onagre, l'huile de lin, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de carthame et l'huile de graine de tournesol, les beurres liquides à 25°C comme le beurre de karité, ainsi que leurs mélanges.The oil of vegetable origin is preferably chosen from olive oil; avocado oil; Argan oil; camellia oil, cottonseed oil, rice bran oil, corn germ oil, wheat germ oil, passionflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, rapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, walnut oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil, castor oil, safflower oil and sunflower seed oil, liquid butters at 25°C such as shea butter, as well as mixtures thereof.
Plus préférentiellement, l’huile d’origine végétale est choisie parmi le beurre de karité, l’huile de noyau d’abricot et leurs mélanges. Avantageusement, l’huile d’origine végétale est un mélange de beurre de karité et d’huile de noyau d’abricot.More preferably, the oil of plant origin is chosen from shea butter, apricot kernel oil and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the oil of plant origin is a mixture of shea butter and apricot kernel oil.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids d’huile(s) d’origine végétale, par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 1 % à 10% en poids.Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of oil(s) of plant origin, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.7% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight.
La seconde huile est choisie parmi les monoesters d’acide gras.The second oil is chosen from fatty acid monoesters.
Les monoesters d’acide gras peuvent être hydroxylées ou non.Fatty acid monoesters can be hydroxylated or not.
De préférence, les monoesters d’acide gras sont choisis parmi les monesters d’acide gras comprenant de 7 à 70 atomes de carbone.Preferably, the fatty acid monoesters are chosen from fatty acid monesters comprising from 7 to 70 carbon atoms.
Le ou les monoester(s) d’acide gras peuvent être choisis par exemple parmi :The fatty acid monoester(s) can be chosen, for example, from:
*les monoesters comprenant entre 17 et 40 atomes de carbone au total, en particulier les monoesters, de formule R1COOR2dans laquelle R1représente le reste d’un acide gras linéaire ou ramifié ou aromatique comportant de 4 à 40 atomes de carbone, saturé ou non, et R2représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée linéaire ou ramifiée contenant de 3 à 40 atomes de carbone à condition que R1+ R2soit ³ 17, comme par exemple l’huile de Purcellin (octanoate de cétostéaryle), l'isononanoate d'isononyle, l’isononanoate de cétearyle, le benzoate d'alcool en C12à C15, le palmitate d'éthyl 2-hexyle, le néopentanoate d’octyledodécyle, le stéarate d’octyl-2 dodécyle, l’érucate d’octyl-2 dodécyle, l’isostéarate d’isostéaryle, l’isostéarate d’isopropyle, le benzoate d’octyl-2 dodécyle, des octanoates, décanoates ou ricinoléates d'alcools ou de polyalcools, le myristate d’isopropyle, le palmitate d’isopropyle, le stéarate de butyle, le laurate d’hexyle, le palmitate de 2-éthyl-hexyle, le laurate de 2-hexyl-décyle, le palmitate de 2-octyl-décyle, le myristate de 2-octyldodécyle, les esters d’acide caprylique et d’alcool gras en C12-C18 ou les esters d’acide caprique et d’alcool gras en C12-C14.*monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms , saturated or not, and R 2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R 1 + R 2 is ³ 17, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), l isononyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2 -ethylhexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-octyl-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, esters of caprylic acid and fatty alcohol C12-C18 or esters of capric acid and fatty alcohol C12-C14.
De préférence, il s’agit des esters de formule R1COOR2dans laquelle R1représente le reste d’un acide gras linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 4 à 40 atomes de carbone et R2représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée linéaire ou ramifiée contenant de 3 à 40 atomes de carbone, R1et R2étant tels que R1+ R2soit ³ 17.Preferably, they are esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, R 1 and R 2 being such that R 1 + R 2 is ³ 17.
Encore plus particulièrement, R2représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée linéaire ou ramifiée contenant de 3 à 20 atomes de carbone.Even more particularly, R 2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
On peut citer à titre d’exemples les esters d’acide caprylique et d’alcool gras en C12-C18 ; les esters d’acide caprique et d’alcool gras en C12-C14 ; et l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges ; etMention may be made, by way of examples, of the esters of caprylic acid and of C12-C18 fatty alcohol; capric acid and C12-C14 fatty alcohol esters; and any mixture thereof; And
*les monoesters éthyléniques d’acide gras et leurs mélanges, comme par exemple ceux obtenus à partir d’une huile de chardon-marie (Silybum Marianum ethyl ester). De préférence, on utilise les esters commercialisés sous le nom INCI : Silybum Marianum ethyl ester, sous le nom de Lipolami par Alban Muller International.* fatty acid ethylenic monoesters and mixtures thereof, such as those obtained from milk thistle oil (Silybum Marianum ethyl ester). Preferably, the esters marketed under the INCI name: Silybum Marianum ethyl ester, under the name Lipolami by Alban Muller International are used.
A titre de monoesters préférés, on peut citer l’isononanoate de cétostéaryle, l’isostéarate d’isopropyle et/ou les monoesters éthyléniques d’acide gras et leurs mélanges, comme par exemple ceux obtenus à partir d’une huile de chardon-marie (Silybum Marianum ethyl ester).Mention may be made, as preferred monoesters, of cetostearyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate and/or fatty acid ethylenic monoesters and mixtures thereof, such as, for example, those obtained from a milk thistle oil (Silybum Marianum ethyl ester).
De préférence, la composition comprend un mélange d’isononanoate de cétostéaryle et d’isostéarate d’isopropyle.Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of cetostearyl isononanoate and isopropyl isostearate.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 0,5 % à 20 % en poids de monoesters d’acide gras (seconde huile), par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 0,7 % à 15 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 1 % à 10 % en poids.Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight of fatty acid monoesters (second oil), relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.7% to 15% by weight, again more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight.
Les gélifiants hydrophilesHydrophilic gelling agents
La composition selon l’invention comprend en outre au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile.The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
Les gélifiants hydrophiles utilisables dans les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être choisis parmi :The hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from:
a) les homo- ou copolymères d'acides acrylique ou méthacrylique ou leurs sels et leurs esters et en particulier les produits vendus sous les dénominations VERSICOL F® ou VERSICOL K® par la société ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® par la société CIBA-GEIGY, les acides polyacryliques de type SYNTHALEN K,a) homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by the company CIBA-GEIGY , polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type,
b) les homopolymères d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique ou ses sels,(b) homopolymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or its salts,
c) les gommes d'origine naturelle, éventuellement modifiées, tels que la gomme de guar ou les dérivés du xanthane telle que la gomme de xanthane; etc) gums of natural origin, optionally modified, such as guar gum or xanthan derivatives such as xanthan gum; And
d) l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges.(d) any of their mixtures.
L’homopolymère d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique peut être réticulé ou non réticulé.The acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.
L’homopolymère d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique peut avoir un poids moléculaire moyen en nombre allant de 1000 à 20 000 000 g/mole, de préférence allant de 20 000 à 5 000 000 et plus préférentiellement encore de 100 000 à 1 500 000 g/mole.The acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer may have a number-average molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g/mole, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mole.
Les compositions selon l’invention peuvent ainsi comprendre au moins un homopolymère d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique ou ses sels. Plus particulièrement, on utilise l'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane-sulfonique ainsi que ses formes partiellement ou totalement neutralisées.The compositions according to the invention may thus comprise at least one homopolymer of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts. More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and its partially or totally neutralized forms are used.
Lorsque les homopolymères d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique sont réticulés, les agents de réticulation peuvent être choisis parmi les composés à polyinsaturation oléfinique couramment utilisés pour la réticulation des polymères obtenus par polymérisation radicalaire. On peut citer par exemple comme agents de réticulation, le divinylbenzène, l'éther diallylique, le dipropylèneglycol-diallyléther, les polyglycol-diallyléthers, le triéthylèneglycol-divinyléther, l'hydroquinone-diallyl-éther, le di(méth)acrylate de d'éthylèneglycol ou de tétraéthylèneglycol, le triméthylol propane triacrylate, le méthylène-bis-acrylamide, le méthylène-bis-méthacrylamide, la triallylamine, le triallylcyanurate, le diallylmaléate, la tétraallyléthylènediamine, le tétra-allyloxy-éthane, le triméthylolpropane-diallyléther, le (méth)acrylate d'allyle, les éthers allyliques d'alcools de la série des sucres, ou d'autres allyl- ou vinyl- éthers d'alcools polyfonctionnels, ainsi que les esters allyliques des dérivés de l'acide phosphorique et/ou vinylphosphonique, ou les mélanges de ces composés.When the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallyl ether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethyleneglycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl-ether, di(meth)acrylate of ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallyl ether, ( allyl meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of derivatives of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid , or mixtures of these compounds.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, l'agent de réticulation est choisi parmi le méthylène-bis-acrylamide, le méthacrylate d'allyle ou le triméthylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). Le taux de réticulation va en général de 0,01 à 10% en mole et plus particulièrement de 0,2 à 2% en mole par rapport au polymère.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mole and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.
De préférence, les homopolymères d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique ne comportent que des monomères à groupement sulfonique et, s'ils sont réticulés, un ou plusieurs agents de réticulation.Preferably, the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers contain only monomers with a sulfonic group and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
Les homopolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane-sulfonique préférés sont en général caractérisés par le fait qu'ils comprennent, distribués de façon aléatoire :The preferred 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers are generally characterized by the fact that they comprise, distributed randomly:
a) de 90 à 99,9% en poids de motifs de formule générale (1) suivante :a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (1) below:
dans laquelle X+désigne un proton, un cation de métal alcalin, un cation alcalino-terreux ou l'ion ammonium, au plus 10% mol des cations X+pouvant être des protons H+;in which X + denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of the X + cations possibly being H + protons;
b) de 0,01 à 10% en poids de motifs réticulants provenant d'au moins un monomère ayant au moins deux double-liaison oléfiniques, les proportions en poids étant définies par rapport au poids total du polymère.b) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
Les homopolymères selon l'invention plus particulièrement préférés comprennent de 98 à 99,5% en poids de motifs de formule (1) et de 0,2 à 2% en poids de motifs réticulants.The more particularly preferred homopolymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (1) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.
Comme polymères de ce type, on peut citer notamment l'homopolymère réticulé et neutralisé d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, commercialisé par la société Clariant sous la dénomination commerciale « Hostacerin AMPS® » (nom INCI : ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).As polymers of this type, mention may be made in particular of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS®” (INCI name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).
Le polymère peut être aussi un homopolymère amphiphile (ou homopolymère modifié hydrophobe) choisi parmi les polymères amphiphiles statistiques d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane-sulfonique modifiés par réaction avec une n-monoalkylamine ou une di-n-alkylamine en C6-C22, tels que ceux décrits dans le document WO-A-00/31154, qui sont des homopolymères greffés.The polymer can also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobic modified homopolymer) chosen from random amphiphilic polymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-C6-alkylamine. C22, such as those described in document WO-A-00/31154, which are graft homopolymers.
Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux, la composition selon l’invention comprend un mélange de gomme de xanthane, d’homopolymère d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique ou ses sels et d’un ou de plusieurs homo- ou copolymères d'acides acrylique ou méthacrylique ou leurs sels et leurs esters.According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of xanthan gum, of homopolymer of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts and of one or more homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters.
De préférence, la composition comprend de 0,1 % à 5 % en poids de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s), par rapport au poids total de la composition, plus préférentiellement de 0,5 % à 3 % en poids, encore plus préférentiellement de 0,3 % à 2 % en poids.Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight.
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention est substantiellement exempte de composé(s) siliconé(s).Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone compound(s).
Par « substantiellement exempte de composé(s) siliconé(s) », on entend que la composition selon l’invention présente une teneur en composé(s) siliconé(s) inférieure ou égale à 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,5% en poids, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,3% en poids, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,1% en poids. De préférence, la composition selon l’invention est totalement exempte de composé(s) siliconé(s).By "substantially free of silicone compound(s)", it is meant that the composition according to the invention has a content of silicone compound(s) less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of silicone compound(s).
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention est substantiellement exempte de tensioactifs.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of surfactants.
Par « substantiellement exempte de tensioactifs », on entend que la composition selon l’invention présente une teneur en tensioactifs inférieure ou égale à 1% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,5% en poids, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,3% en poids, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 0,1% en poids. De préférence, la composition selon l’invention est totalement exempte de tensioactifs.By “substantially free of surfactants”, it is meant that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of surfactants.
La composition peut également comprendre un ou plusieurs additif(s) classiquement utilisé(s) dans les compositions cosmétiques comme par exemple des conservateurs, des actifs, des colorants/pigments, des bases, ou encore des parfums.The composition can also comprise one or more additive(s) conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as, for example, preservatives, active agents, colorants/pigments, bases, or even perfumes.
Enfin, l’invention se rapporte aussi à un procédé cosmétique de soin des matières kératiniques, de préférence la peau, comprenant l’application sur lesdites matières kératiniques d’une composition selon l’invention.Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.
Elle se rapporte également à l’utilisation cosmétique d’une composition selon l’invention pour hydrater la peau, en particulier le stratum corneum.It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for moisturizing the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.
Les expressions « compris entre … et … », « allant de … à … » et « varie de … à … » doivent se comprendre bornes incluses, sauf si le contraire est spécifié.The expressions “between … and …”, “ranging from … to …” and “varies from … to …” must be understood as limits included, unless otherwise specified.
Des exemples concrets, mais nullement limitatifs, illustrant l'invention, vont maintenant être donnés.Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
Dans les exemples, la pression est la pression atmosphérique, sauf indication contraire. Sauf mention contraire, les pourcentages sont exprimés en poids par rapport au poids total de composition (% p/p).In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w/w).
Exemple 1 :Example 1: Préparations de compositionsComposition preparations cosmétiques sous formecosmetics in the form de gelfrost selon l’inventionaccording to the invention
Les compositions aqueuses A et B (selon l’invention) sont préparées avec les ingrédients mentionnés dans le tableau 1 ci-dessous selon le protocole suivant :The aqueous compositions A and B (according to the invention) are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in Table 1 below according to the following protocol:
Les ingrédients constituants la phase A1 sont mélangés puis chauffés. Les ingrédients constituants la phase A2 sont ensuite mélangés avec la phase A2 chauffée. Puis, les ingrédients de la phase B sont dispersés dans le mélange de phases A1+A2. Les phases C, D et E sont enfin ajoutées de manière successives dans la dispersion.The constituent ingredients of phase A1 are mixed and then heated. The constituent ingredients of phase A2 are then mixed with the heated phase A2. Then, the ingredients of phase B are dispersed in the mixture of phases A1+A2. Phases C, D and E are finally added successively to the dispersion.
Ingredients
(selon l’invention) Composition A
(according to the invention)
(selon l’invention) Composition B
(according to the invention)
(Synthalen K®, 3V)Carbomer
(Synthalen K®, 3V)
(Hostacerin AMPS®, Clariant)Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
(Hostacerin AMPS®, Clariant)
(Wickenol 131®, ALZO)Isopropyl Isostearate
(Wickenol 131®, ALZO)
(Cetiol SN®, BASF)Cetearyl isononanoate
(Cetiol SN®, BASF)
(mélange de Cétiol LC® et Cetiol C 5C®, BASF)Coconut caprylate/caprate
(mixture of Cetiol LC® and Cetiol C 5C®, BASF)
Exemple 2Example 2 :: Préparations de compositions cosmétiques sous forme de gel (hors invention)Preparations of cosmetic compositions in gel form (outside the invention)
Les compositions aqueuses C à H (comparatives) sont préparées avec les ingrédients mentionnés dans le tableau 2 ci-dessous selon le même protocole que celui décrit à l’exemple 1.The aqueous compositions C to H (comparative) are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in table 2 below according to the same protocol as that described in example 1.
Ingredients
(comparative) Composition C
(comparative)
(comparative) Composition D
(comparative)
(comparative) Composition E
(comparative)
(comparative) Composition F
(comparative)
(comparative) Composition G
(comparative)
(comparative) Composition H
(comparative)
(Synthalen K®, 3V)Carbomer
(Synthalen K®, 3V)
(Hostacerin AMPS®, Clariant)Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate
(Hostacerin AMPS®, Clariant)
(Cetiol OE®, BASF)dicaprylic ether
(Cetiol OE®, BASF)
(Dub Dis®, STEARINERIE DUBOIS)Diisopropyl sebacate
(Dub Dis®, STEARINERIE DUBOIS)
(Eldew SL-205®, AJINOMOTO)Isopropyl lauryol sarcosinate
(Eldew SL-205®, AJINOMOTO)
(Cetiol CC®, BASF)Dicaprylic carbonate
(Cetiol CC®, BASF)
(Emogreen L19, SEPPIC)Alkane in C15-19
(Emogreen L19, SEPPIC)
(Emogreen L15, SEPPIC)Alkane in C15-19
(Emogreen L15, SEPPIC)
Contrairement aux compositions selon l’invention de l’exemple 1, ces compositions comparatives ne présentent pas de bonnes propriétés cosmétiques.Unlike the compositions according to the invention of Example 1, these comparative compositions do not have good cosmetic properties.
Les compositions comparatives (hors invention) ne donnent pas satisfaction pour l’une au moins des raisons suivantes :The comparative compositions (outside the invention) are not satisfactory for at least one of the following reasons:
- la composition n’est pas satisfaisante en termes de translucidité (composition trop ou trop peu translucide) ;the composition is not satisfactory in terms of translucency (composition too or too little translucent);
- la composition est collante ;the composition is sticky;
- la composition n’est pas assez glissante (difficultés d’application) ;the composition is not slippery enough (difficulty in application);
- la composition est brillante ;the composition is brilliant;
- la sensation de fraicheur associée n’est pas satisfaisante ;the associated feeling of freshness is not satisfactory;
- la composition pénètre trop vite à l’application sur les matières kératiniques, notamment la peau.the composition penetrates too quickly on application to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
Les compositions C et D sont par exemple trop opaques (pas assez translucide). La composition C n’est également pas assez glissante et ne permet pas de procurer une sensation de fraicheur suffisamment importante.Compositions C and D are for example too opaque (not translucent enough). Composition C is also not slippery enough and does not provide a sufficiently significant feeling of freshness.
La composition H est quant à elle pas assez glissante et pénètre trop vite à l’application.Composition H is not slippery enough and penetrates too quickly on application.
Claims (11)
- au moins un gélifiant hydrophile,
- au moins une première huile choisie parmi les huiles d’origine végétale,
- au moins un alcool primaire,
- au moins un polyol, et
- au moins une seconde huile choisie parmi les monoesters d’acide gras.Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:
- at least one hydrophilic gelling agent,
- at least one first oil chosen from oils of vegetable origin,
- at least one primary alcohol,
- at least one polyol, and
- at least one second oil chosen from fatty acid monoesters.
- les gommes d’origine naturelle, éventuellement modifiées, tels que la gomme de guar ou les dérivés du xanthane telle que la gomme de xanthane,
- les homopolymères d’acide acrylamido-2-méthyl propane sulfonique ou ses sels,
- les homo- ou copolymères d'acides acrylique ou méthacrylique ou leurs sels et leurs esters, et
- l’un quelconque de leurs mélanges.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the said hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:
- gums of natural origin, possibly modified, such as guar gum or xanthan derivatives such as xanthan gum,
- homopolymers of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts,
- homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters, and
- any of their mixtures.
de 60 à 80 % d’eau,
de 0,3 à 2 % en poids de gélifiant(s) hydrophile(s),
de 1 à 10 % en poids d’huile(s) d’origine végétale,
de 1 à 10 % en poids d’alcool(s) primaire(s),
de 0,5 à 20 % en poids de polyol(s), et
de 1 à 10 % en poids de monoester(s) d’acide gras,
par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, comprising:
60 to 80% water,
from 0.3 to 2% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent(s),
from 1 to 10% by weight of oil(s) of vegetable origin,
from 1 to 10% by weight of primary alcohol(s),
from 0.5 to 20% by weight of polyol(s), and
from 1 to 10% by weight of fatty acid monoester(s),
relative to the total weight of the composition.
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| FR2107186A FR3124701B1 (en) | 2021-07-02 | 2021-07-02 | Moisturizing cosmetic composition |
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|---|---|---|---|
| FR2107186A FR3124701B1 (en) | 2021-07-02 | 2021-07-02 | Moisturizing cosmetic composition |
| FR2107186 | 2021-07-02 |
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Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2000031154A1 (en) | 1998-11-23 | 2000-06-02 | Sofitech N.V. | Invertible emulsions stabilised by amphiphilic polymers and application to bore fluids |
| US20030124158A1 (en) * | 2001-09-07 | 2003-07-03 | Thomas Heidenfelder | Low-emulsifier or emulsifier-free systems of the oil-in-water type with a content of stabilizers and an amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone |
| FR2992170A1 (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2013-12-27 | Oreal | TRANSLUCENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES |
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2021
- 2021-07-02 FR FR2107186A patent/FR3124701B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2000031154A1 (en) | 1998-11-23 | 2000-06-02 | Sofitech N.V. | Invertible emulsions stabilised by amphiphilic polymers and application to bore fluids |
| US20030124158A1 (en) * | 2001-09-07 | 2003-07-03 | Thomas Heidenfelder | Low-emulsifier or emulsifier-free systems of the oil-in-water type with a content of stabilizers and an amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenone |
| FR2992170A1 (en) * | 2012-06-21 | 2013-12-27 | Oreal | TRANSLUCENT COMPOSITION COMPRISING SILICA AEROGEL PARTICLES |
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| Title |
|---|
| DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 11 June 2020 (2020-06-11), ANONYMOUS: "Gel Cream", XP055899628, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/7651035/ Database accession no. 7651035 * |
| DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 28 June 2021 (2021-06-28), ANONYMOUS: "After Sun Hydrating Lotion", XP055899580, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8820305/ Database accession no. 8820305 * |
| DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 29 June 2021 (2021-06-29), ANONYMOUS: "Moisturizer Cream", XP055899565, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/8824155/ Database accession no. 8824155 * |
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