FR3116201A1 - NEW SERUMS TO REDUCE LIPID PEROXIDATION - Google Patents

Abstract

New serums to reduce lipid peroxidation Cosmetic compositions comprising a high amount of Silybum Marianum extract, relatively high amounts of skin active ingredients selected from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, cinnamic acid derivative , or a mixture thereof; c) one or more surfactants; d) from about 3 to about 15% by weight propylene glycol; e) from about 5 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; and f) water; and wherein the composition has a pH of no greater than about 5. Figure for Abstract: None

Description

NEW SERUMS TO REDUCE LIPID PEROXIDATION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions comprising an extract of Silybum Marianum, relatively high amounts of active ingredients for the skin, glycols and water; and methods of treating the skin using these cosmetic compositions.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

UV exposure and environmental pollution can accelerate skin aging by producing free radicals in the skin. Antioxidants, including vitamin C, and other active ingredients protect cells from damage caused by oxidative stress by scavenging free radicals and inhibiting oxidation reactions. Topical application of antioxidants and other skin actives is widely employed in skin care products to prevent skin aging. It is difficult to provide compositions comprising sufficiently high amounts of actives, including antioxidants, in a system that can stably maintain the solubility of the actives over time and at ambient temperatures. Commercial compositions that are formulated with high amounts of actives have a limited shelf life or their effectiveness is reduced due to instability and eventual precipitation of the actives. Thus, many commercial compositions contain quantities of active ingredients which may be insufficient to meet the risks incurred by a consumer. There remains a need for systems to formulate protective compositions that provide significant levels of protective actives in a stable formulation.

DISCLOSURE SUMMARY

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which are unique compared to conventional cosmetic compositions because they contain and deliver a high concentration of Silybum Marianum extract, a high concentration of active ingredients for the skin, such as acid ascorbic acid and salicylic acid in a water/glycol system. The high concentrations of Silybum Marianum extract, ascorbic acid and salicylic acid are very difficult to stabilize, each for different reasons, and therefore present unique formulation challenges. Without wishing to make any particular theory, the inventors believe that the extract of Silybum Marianum, in combination with a specific mixture of glycols in a water system, as well as a ratio, contributes to the solubility, stability and therefore to the effectiveness of the compositions. Cosmetic compositions generally include:

1. about 0.1 to about 1.8% by weight Silybum Marianum extract;
2. one or more active ingredients for the skin chosen from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, a derivative of cinnamic acid or a mixture thereof;
3. one or more surfactants;
4. from about 3 to about 15% by weight propylene glycol;
5. from about 8 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; And
6. some water ; And

wherein the composition has a pH no greater than about 5;

in which all the percentages by weight are related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the Silybum Marianum extract is present in sufficient quantity to prevent lipoperoxidation activity on the skin.

The cosmetic compositions can be in the form of an aqueous serum, a gel, an essence and a light lotion. It may be helpful for the pH to be acidic (below 7) to help maximize the effectiveness of ascorbic acid.

In some embodiments, the weight ratio of the mixture of propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol is from about 1:6 to about 1:1.

In one or more embodiments, the total amount of skin care actives present in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one or more embodiments, the compositions may comprise a glycol other than propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol and chosen from ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol , diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol (=1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol, glycerine and a mixture thereof.

In certain embodiments, the propylene glycol is present at about 5 to about 12% by weight, or about 5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In one or more embodiments, the dipropylene glycol is present at about 8-15% by weight, or about 10-15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one or more embodiments, the one or more surfactants are present in a proportion of approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, the one or more surfactants include alkoxylated fatty alcohols.

In one or more embodiments, the compositions demonstrate solubility and stability of the Silybum Marianum extract at temperatures from about 5°C to about 45°C and at a pH no greater than about 5.

In one or more embodiments, water is present at from about 35 to about 90% by weight, or from about 35 to about 80% by weight, or from about 35 to about 70% by weight, or from about 35 to about 60% by weight, or from about 35 to about 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, the cinnamic acid derivative is ferulic acid. In some embodiments, the one or more skin-active agents include salicylic acid and ascorbic acid.

Another aspect of this disclosure may include:

1. about 0.1 to about 1.8% by weight Silybum Marianum extract;
2. about 0.1 to about 2% by weight salicylic acid;
3. about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid;
4. one or more surfactants, including alkoxylated fatty alcohols;
5. from about 3 to about 10% by weight propylene glycol;
6. from about 10 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; And
7. some water ; And

wherein the composition has a pH no greater than about 5; And

wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the Silybum Marianum extract is present in amounts sufficient to prevent or minimize lipoperoxidation activity on the skin.

In another exemplary embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of treating the skin comprising applying to the skin the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure.

The cosmetic compositions are useful for treating the skin, for example, the skin of the face and neck of a human being. Thus, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating the skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to the skin. The cosmetic compositions are further useful in methods of treating skin dryness, repairing photoaging damage to skin, and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. skin. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.

The present disclosure also relates to methods of preventing or reducing lipoperoxidation activity on the skin, the method comprising applying the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure to the skin.

These and other aspects of the invention are set out in the appended claims and described in greater detail in the Detailed Description of the Invention.

This disclosure describes exemplary embodiments in accordance with the general inventive concepts and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way. Indeed, the invention as described in the specification is broader than and not limited to the exemplary embodiments set forth herein, and the terms used herein have their full ordinary meaning.

It is understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are both exemplary and explanatory and are not limiting of the disclosure.

Implementations of the present technology will be described, by way of example only, with reference to the appended figures, in which:

There graphically shows the % sebum peroxidation after UVA irradiation.

There graphically shows the % inhibition of raw material to be able to prevent the formation of malondialdehyde after skin samples are exposed to UV light.

It should be understood that the various aspects are not limited to the arrangements and instrumentality shown in the drawings.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE DISCLOSURE

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which are unique compared to conventional cosmetic compositions because they contain and deliver a high concentration of Silybum Marianum extract, a high concentration of active ingredients for the skin, such as acid ascorbic and salicylic acid in a water/glycol system. The high concentrations of Silybum Marianum extract, ascorbic acid and salicylic acid are very difficult to stabilize, each for different reasons, and therefore pose unique formulation challenges. Cosmetic compositions typically include:

a) about 0.1 to about 1.8% by weight Silybum Marianum extract;

b) one or more active ingredients for the skin chosen from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, a derivative of cinnamic acid or a mixture thereof;

c) one or more surfactants;

d) from about 3 to about 15% by weight propylene glycol;

e) from about 8 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; And

f) water; And

wherein the composition has a pH no greater than about 5; And

in which all the percentages by weight are related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one embodiment, the Silybum Marianum extract is present in amounts sufficient to prevent or minimize lipoperoxidation activity on the skin.

The term "lipoperoxidative activity" used herein is understood to refer to the oxidation of lipids which is typically catalyzed by free radicals.

The term "stability" as used herein is intended to describe a cosmetic composition that does not change significantly in appearance under standard storage protocols, which may include storing the formulations at various temperatures ranging from about 4 degrees Celsius to around 45 degrees Celsius for extended periods of more than 2 months. In particular, "stability" in this disclosure relates to the visual appearance (aided or not by the use of a microscope) of crystals or solid particles that precipitate out of the formulation during prolonged periods of temperature-controlled storage. . Keep the formula visually consistent and intact and not alter the clarity or microscopic image at the macroscopic level.

The term "solubility" used herein is understood to mean the ability to dissolve in a homogeneous solution without change in visual or microscopic hazeiness or particles.

Silybum Marianum Extract

Silybum Marianum extract (containing silymarin) is extracted from the fruit of the milk thistle plant (Silybum Marianum) and contains several flavonoids and flavonolignans, the main components of which are silybin, which is predominant (i.e. i.e. active), silydianin and silychristin. Silymarin is known to have anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective and anticarcinogenic effects.

The cosmetic compositions include an extract of Silybum Marianum. For example, the cosmetic composition can comprise an amount of Silybum Marianum extract ranging from approximately 0.1% by weight to approximately 1.8% by weight, from approximately 0.2% by weight to approximately 1.6% by weight, from about 0.3% by weight to about 1.4% by weight, from about 0.4% by weight to about 1.2% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 1% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

Also, Silybum Marianum extract is present around 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9 to about 0.9, 0.95, 1.0, 1.1, 1 .15, 1.2, 1.25, 1.3, 1.35, 1.4, 1.45, 1.5, 1.55, 1.6, 1.65, 1.7, 1.75 or 1.8% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Active ingredients for the skin

In accordance with this disclosure, embodiments of the composition include one or more skin actives selected from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, a cinnamic acid derivative, or a mixture thereof. In certain specific embodiments, the composition each comprises ascorbic acid, a cinnamic acid derivative including ferulic acid.

The cosmetic compositions include salicylic acid. For example, the cosmetic compositions can include an amount of salicylic acid ranging from about 0.1% by weight to about 2.0% by weight, from about 0.2% by weight to about 1.8% by weight , from about 0.3% by weight to about 1.7% by weight, from about 0.4% by weight to about 1.6% by weight, from about 0.5% by weight to about 1, 5% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

In some embodiments, the compositions include ascorbic acid. For example, the cosmetic compositions can include an amount of ascorbic acid of about 1.0 wt% to 30 wt%, 2.5 wt% to 25 wt%, 3.5 wt% to 20 wt% by weight, 4.5 wt% to 20 wt%, 5 wt% to 18 wt%, 6 wt% to 18 wt%, 7 wt% to 15 wt%, or 8 wt% to 15% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Also, in certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition may include an amount of ascorbic acid of about 20% by weight, about 19% by weight, about 18% by weight, about 17% by weight, about 16% by by weight, about 15% by weight, about 14% by weight, about 13% by weight, about 12% by weight, about 11% by weight, about 10% by weight, about 9% by weight, about 8% by weight, about 7% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 2% by weight or about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the amount of ascorbic acid can be 10 to 15% by weight, or about 12 to about 15% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The ascorbic acid can be L-ascorbic acid, a mixture of L-ascorbic acid and R-ascorbic acid, and/or a racemic mixture. In one embodiment, the ascorbic acid comprises only L-ascorbic acid, essentially only L-ascorbic acid, and/or at least 75% by weight, at least 85% by weight, at least 90 % by weight, at least 95% by weight or at least 99% by weight of L-ascorbic acid, based on the total weight of ascorbic acid.

Ascorbic acid is also known as vitamin C. Ascorbic acid can be provided by the addition of any reducing analog of ascorbic acid, such as D-isoascorbic acid or by the addition of other small reducing compounds such as, but not limited to, glutathione, L-cysteamine, and others. It is anticipated that such forms will provide a composition equivalent to that claimed and fall within the scope of the invention.

In some embodiments, the or combination of skin actives includes a cinnamic acid derivative. A cinnamic acid or derivative thereof may be selected from the group consisting of ferulic acid, p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid, sinapinic acid, chlorogenic acids, caftaric acid, chicoric acid, coutaric acid, rosmarinic acid, their derivatives and their combinations. Their equivalent derivatives include cinnamic acid derivatives having substitutions on the hydroxyl groups of the aromatic ring, such as short-chain (one to six carbon atoms) or long-chain (seven to twenty-four carbon atoms) aliphatic groups ) to form an ether, or the aliphatic groups substituted with alkyl, alkoxy, hydroxyl, amino or amido, for example, to form a substituted ether. Their equivalent derivatives further include cinnamic acid derivatives having modifications of the aromatic ring methoxy group(s) to short-chain aliphatic groups (two to six carbon atoms) or long-chain aliphatic groups (seven to twenty-four carbon atoms) to form a longer chain ether, or such aliphatic groups substituted by alkyl, alkoxy, hydroxyl, amino or amido, for example, to form a substituted long chain ether. The 3-carboxy group of a cinnamic acid derivative can also be converted to esters or amides having aliphatic groups of up to 24 carbon atoms or an aromatic group, for example. Both cis and trans isomers of cinnamic acid derivatives are included here because the cis isomer is easily converted to the trans isomer. Salts of cinnamic acid derivatives are included here. In one embodiment, the cinnamic acid derivative is a triethanolamine salt. Caffeic acid, also known as 3-(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)-2-propenoic acid, is present in many fruits, vegetables, seasonings and beverages consumed by humans. Caffeic acid is present in these products in conjugated forms such as chlorogenic acid. Para-coumaric acid, also known as 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-2-propenoic acid or p-hydroxycinnamic acid, is found in various plants, including lignin-forming plants. Trans-ferulic acid, also known as 3-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-2-propenoic acid or 4-hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, is also widely distributed in small amounts in plants. Sinapinic acid, also called 3,5-dimethoxy4-hydroxycinnamic acid, comes from black mustard seeds. Caffeic acid, para-coumaric acid, trans-ferulic acid and sinapinic acid are commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.

In certain embodiments, the additional actives can also include at least one hydroxy acid chosen from alpha, beta or polyhydroxy acids. Thus, in various embodiments, a hydroxy acid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, galactose and combinations thereof.

In general, each of the skin actives may be present in the composition in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 2%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Ascorbic acid and its derivatives may be present in the composition in an amount of from about 1% to about 30%, and in some embodiments, from about 5% to about 25%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 20%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 15%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof, by weight, reported to the weight of the composition.

Cinnamic acid derivatives, including but not limited to ferulic acid, and triethanolamine salts may be present in the compositions in an amount from about 0.1% to about 1%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 1.0%, or any combination, sub-combination, range or sub -appropriate range thereof, by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Thus, in various embodiments, each of the skin actives may be present in a composition according to the disclosure in an amount of about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0 .06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90 , 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 , 25, 26, 27, 28 to about 30 percent by weight, including increments and ranges in between.

According to some embodiments, the composition comprises more than one skin care active and their combination is present in the composition at a total concentration, from about 1 to about 30% by weight. In some embodiments, the total amount of skin care actives present in the composition is about 10 to about 30% by weight, or about 12 to about 25% by weight, or about 14 to about 20% by weight, or from 15 to about 18% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the composition comprises a skin care active comprising salicylic acid and ascorbic acid in a total amount of from about 10 to about 30% by weight, or from about 12 to about 25% by weight, or from about 14 to about 20% by weight, or from 15 to about 18% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Thus, in various embodiments, the total amount of skin-active substances may be present in a composition, according to the disclosure, in an amount of about 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 at about 30% by weight including intermediate increments and ranges.

Surfactants

In accordance with the disclosure, embodiments of the composition include one or more surfactants. In certain embodiments, the one or more surfactants are present in a proportion of approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The one or more surfactants can be nonionic, cationic, anionic or zwitterionic surfactants. The at least one surfactant can be chosen from alkoxylated fatty alcohols. Suitable examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include laureth-3, laureth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, laureth-23, ceteth-10, ceteth-33, steareth-10, steareth-2, steareth-20, steareth-100, beheneth-5, beheneth-10, oleth- 10, alcohols pareth, trideceth-10, trideceth-12, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-23, C11 -15 pareth-7, PPG- 5 ceteth-20, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, glyceryl-26 (PEG-26 glyceryl ether), PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and mixtures thereof. The one or more surfactants may be present in the composition in a range of about 1 to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain particular embodiments, the sole surfactant comprises laureth-23.

In various embodiments, the at least one surfactant may be present from about 1% to about 5% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and in some embodiments, from about 1% to about 4%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 6%, and in some embodiments, from about 3% to about 4.5%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, laureth-23 may be present at about 1 to about 10% by weight of the composition, and in some embodiments about 3 to about 4.5%, or in any combination, appropriate sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be present from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition, and in some embodiments from about 1% to about 2%, or any combination, in -suitable combination, range or subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition includes more than one surfactant. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, in various embodiments, each of the one or more surfactants is present in a composition which according to the disclosure ranges from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 % by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

Glycols

According to the disclosure, the composition includes propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

In various embodiments, the compositions may additionally comprise a glycol other than propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol and chosen from ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol , diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol (=1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol, glycerine and a mixture thereof.

In various embodiments, the propylene glycol is present in the composition in a range of at least about 3% to about 15%, such as in an amount of at least about 3.2% to about 14.5%, 3.4% to about 14%, from about 3.6% to about 13%, from about 3.8% to about 13.5%, from about 4% to about 13%, from about 4% to about 12%, from about 4.5% to about 11%, and in some embodiments from about 4.5% to about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the dipropylene glycol is present in the composition in a range of about 8% to 18%, or at least about 8.5% to about 17.5%, or at least about 9 % to about 17%, or from at least about 9.5% to about 16.5%, or from at least about 10% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 12%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

In various embodiments, the glycol or combination of glycols can comprise a combination of propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol present in a ratio of about 1:6 to about 1:1 propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol. In some embodiments the ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol is about 1:6, and in some embodiments it is about 1:3, and in some embodiments it is about 1:1. In some embodiments, the ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol is about 1:6 to about 1:1, about 1:4 to about 1:1, about 1:3 to about 1:1 , from about 1:2 to about 1:1, from about 1:1.5 to about 1:1, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof.

The total amount of the combination of glycols present in the composition ranges from at least about 25% to less than about 20%, and in some embodiments from at least about 20% to less than about 15%, all amounts and ratios being based on the weight of the composition. Propylene glycol may be present in the combination within the composition in an amount of at least about 3% to about 15%, and in some embodiments, about 6% to about 12%, and in some embodiments embodiment, from about 3% to about 10%, and in some embodiments, from about 8% to about 10%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight , based on the weight of the composition. The dipropylene glycol may be present in the combination within the composition in an amount of at least about 8% to about 18%, and in some embodiments, about 9% to about 17%, and in some embodiments embodiment, from about 110% to about 16.5%, and in some embodiments, from about 10% to about 14%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition.

Thus, in various embodiments, each of the glycols is present in a composition according to the disclosure of about 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 to about 18% by weight, including increments and ranges in between.

Water

According to the various embodiments, water is present in the compositions in a range from about 35% to about 90%, and in some embodiments, from about 35% to about 70%, and in some embodiment, from about 35% to about 65%, and in some embodiments, from about 35% to about 60%, and in some embodiments, from about 68% or any combination, sub-combination, range or appropriate subrange thereof by weight, based on the weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention. Thus, the water is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, up to about 90 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges in between. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

The water used can be sterile demineralised water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or thermal water or natural mineral such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains , water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevard-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizières, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort , Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase can also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting thermal water.

The pH of the composition is not limited but is generally between about 2.0 and about 5.0, and in some embodiments is between about 3 and about 4.5. The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic) to the composition, for example, sodium citrate, ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or else by adding an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.

Optional Additives

The compositions can also comprise at least one additive used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the properties of the compositions according to the invention, such as perfumes, preservatives, antimicrobials, dyes, essential oils, acid citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, pH adjusting agents, chelating agents and combinations thereof. In certain particular embodiments, the compositions can comprise at least one additive chosen from: preservatives/antimicrobials, for example, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate and caprylyl glycol; active substances, for example, hydroxyacetophenone and vitamins, and UV agents such as terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid; dyestuffs; essential oils ; citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium chloride; neutralizing, chelating or pH adjusting agents (eg, triethylamine (TEA), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and sodium hydroxide), and combinations thereof.

Preservatives having antibacterial activity are optionally present in the compositions of the present invention. Any preservative commonly used in cosmetic formulations is an acceptable preservative for the compositions of the present invention, such as phenoxyethanol, members of the paraben family such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or isobutyl parabens, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, triclosan, benzyl alcohol, chlorophenesin or salicylic acid, for example. Phenoxyethanol is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich. In more concentrated amounts of solvent, members of the paraben family can be used as preservatives.

Although the optional additives are given by way of example, it will be appreciated that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art can be used, if appropriate.

In certain particular embodiments, the composition may include optional additives chosen from phenoxyethanol, terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium citrate, sodium chloride, hydroxyacetophenone sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, citric acid, caprylyl glycol and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, and combinations thereof. Phenoxyethanol is present in the composition in a range of about 0.5% to about 2% in some embodiments, and in a range of about 1% to about 2% in some embodiments.

In accordance with the various embodiments, the amount of the one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, when present in the composition according to the disclosure, can vary from approximately 0.001% to approximately 20%, and in some embodiments, about 0.05% to about 0.01%, and in some embodiments, about 0.01% to about 0.1%, and in some embodiments, about 0.15% to about 5%, and in some embodiments about 0.40% to about 4%, and in some embodiments about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and in some embodiments about 0.1% to about 0.5% and in some embodiments about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. However, those skilled in the art will appreciate that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

Thus, any one or a combination of actives and additives may be present, each or the combination being present from about 0.001, 0.005, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04 , 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0 .08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3 , 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to approximately 20 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges in between.

EXAMPLES

Implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The following examples serve to elucidate certain aspects of the technology without being limiting in nature.

Example 1

(Inventive compositions)

US INCI Ex. inv. 1 (To) SILYBUM MARIANUM EXTRACT
(SILYMARIN) 0.64 (b) SALICYLIC ACID 0.5 ASCORBIC ACID 15 FERULIC ACID 0.5 (vs) surfactant LAURETH-23 3 (d) Glycols DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 (e) Glycols PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 (g) Water WATER Q.S. 100

Example 2

(Physical Stability)

Inventive Example 1 was tested for physical stability of 12 weeks at 5°C, 25°C, 37°C, 45°C and F/T (i.e. freeze/thaw ). Inventive example 1 was distributed in four different glass jars.

It was observed that at the initial time T0, the 4 glass jars containing inventive example 1 were macroscopically and microscopically clear.

After four weeks, the 4 glass jars containing Inventive Example 1 were found to still be macroscopically and microscopically clear. Samples exposed to 37°C and 45°C were somewhat darker in color, but were clear.

After eight weeks, the 4 glass jars containing Inventive Example 1 were observed to still be macroscopically and microscopically clear. Samples exposed to 37°C and 45°C showed darker color than at four weeks, but both samples were still clear (both macroscopically and microscopically).

After 12 weeks, it was observed that the 4 glass jars containing Inventive Example 1 were still macroscopically and microscopically clear. The samples exposed to 37°C and 45°C were very dark in color compared to the eight-week study, but both samples were still clear (both macroscopically and microscopically).

Conclusion :

After the 12 week stability period, all samples appeared to be macroscopically and microscopically clear from baseline through the end of 12 weeks, indicating good solubility throughout the 12 week stability period at 5 °C, 25°C, 37°C, 45°C and F/T.

One of the big challenges of using Silybum Marianum extract in a water/glycol solvent environment was being able to solubilize it and then keep it stable. The ratio of the solvent system was carefully considered as it was not obvious that Silybum Marianum extract could be solubilized in such a solvent system.

Example 3

Solubility/stability

The Hansen space was created to examine which solvents could be used based on the principle "like dissolves like". The closest solvent to Silybum Marianum extract in 3D space (representing dispersion forces (D), polarity (P) and hydrogen bonds) showed that the closest solvents that can be used were dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol and alcohol. The solvents were rated at different percentages.

Results

• The 20% glycol mixture did not always yield crystal clear formulas, even when the water levels were similar between 44 and 46%.
• The apparent stability of Silybum Marianum extract in ascorbic acid depended on the specific amount of 20% glycols used.
• In the case of other systems with 13% to 20% glycols (butylene, dipropylene) with varying levels of glycols, separation has been observed.

Ex. Inventive 1 Theoretical T0M*. T1M
YOUR** T1M
45°C T2M
YOUR T2M
45°C Ascorbic acid 15% 15.2% 15.04% 14.72% 15.60% 14.00% Ferulic acid 0.50% 0.46% 0.48% 0.43% 0.50% 0.39% Salicylic acid 0.50% N / A 0.50% 0.49% 0.49% 0.47% Silybum Marianum Extract (Active Silybin) 0.21% N / A 0.24% 0.22% 0.20% 0.18%

*= Month

**= Ambient temperature

Dosage of ingredients

Stability was assessed by an experiment called an "assay", which involves placing samples at elevated temperatures (45°C) for up to 3 months and testing the samples at intervals fixed for 4 weeks using UV liquid chromatography (LC-UV) to determine the concentration of the active ingredients.

Levels of ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, salicylic acid and Silybum Marianum extract (active silybin) were measured.

Silybin is an antioxidant which is one of the main active components of Silybum Marianum extract. Higher concentrations of silybin should have lower aqueous solubility, but this may be enhanced at higher pHs. However, the inventive examples exist in an acidic environment, which makes it even more difficult to solubilize silybin.

The data shows that the cosmetic compositions according to the present disclosure, which included large amounts of Silybum Marianum extract, salicylic acid and ascorbic acid were surprisingly stable in the low pH water/glycol solvent system.

Ex. inv. 1 Ex. inv. 2 Ex. inv. 3 Glycol % % % Silybum Marianum Extract 0.64 0.64 0.64 Pentylene glycol 0 0.0 0.0 Propylene glycol 10.00 5.0 8.0 Dipropylene Glycol 10.00 15.0 12.0 Butylene glycol 0.00 0.00 0.00 Glycerin 0.00 0.00 0.00 Total Glycols 20.0 20.0 20.0 First results crystal clear crystal clear crystal clear Results after 2 weeks crystal clear crystal clear crystal clear

In Table 3 above, the mixture of glycols has been shown to be essential to the physical stability of the inventive formula. The inventive examples remained clear under all conditions for 12 weeks of accelerated stability, including at 5°C.

Examples 1, 2 and 3 showed how the ratio between propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol was essential.

The results show that a combination of glycols selected from propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol gives a stable composition in the presence of a high amount of actives in a range of 0.1% to 30% which includes ascorbic acid at or near its water solubility limit.

Ex. Comp. 2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp. 4 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 Ex. Comp. 8 Glycol % % % % % % % Silybum Marianum Extract 0.64 0.64 0.64 0.64 0.64 0.64 0.64 Pentylene glycol 5 0 0.0 0.0 0.00 0.0 0.0 Propylene glycol 7.83 0 12 20.0 15.00 12.0 0.0 Dipropylene Glycol 0 15 5 0.00 5.00 8.0 0.0 Butylene glycol 0 5 0 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.0 Glycerin 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 20.0 Total Glycols 12.83 20.0 17.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 20.0 First results Unstable Unstable crystal clear crystal clear crystal clear crystal clear crystal clear Results after 2 weeks Unstable Unstable Unstable Unstable Unstable Unstable Unstable

In Table 4 above, all Ex.Comp. used different ratios of glycols as well as different types of glycols. It was then observed that silybin was very unstable in these formulas (precipitate formed at 5° C. after approximately 1 to 2 weeks). The failure was demonstrated by the visible separation that was observed.

Even with a total glycol content of 20%, it was observed that the comparative examples could also be clear but were not stable.

In conclusion, as shown in Table 3, with the level of Silybum Marianum extract maintained at 0.64%, it was unexpectedly found that a specific ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol was required to maintain the solubility and stability of Silybum Marianum extract (active silybin) in an acidic aqueous environment.

Example 4

(Assessment)

An ex-vivo sebum photoperoxidation test was performed to evaluate the antioxidant efficacy of the inventive formula. In this test, sebum treated with the inventive formula was compared to untreated sebum (control) in order to evaluate its ability to reduce UVA-induced sebum peroxidation.

Results

The results of the effectiveness of the inventive formula compared to sebum alone are summarized in the following table:

The protection against photoperoxidation provided by the inventive formula was effective, with approximately 82% inhibition compared to untreated sebum. The level of effectiveness can be explained by the combined effect of antioxidant protection (ascorbic acid 15% + Silybum Marianum extract 0.64% + ferulic acid 0.5%).

Test conditions

A layer of sebum was taken from the forehead of a volunteer on 2 inert media. Approximately 5 mg/cm ² of the active formula to be tested was applied to the first sample, with nothing being applied to the second sample (untreated sebum control). The samples were exposed to UVA at 5 joules/cm ² . The photo-oxidation of sebum leads to the formation of squalene peroxides, and the variation in peroxidation allows us to compare the effectiveness of the active formula compared to sebum alone. See it .

Conclusion

The inventive formula was observed to be effective in comparison to untreated sebum, resulting in an inhibition of sebum peroxidation of approximately 82% under the test conditions.

Example 5

(MDA test for peroxidation)

Studies have shown that Silybum Marianum extract plays a protective role against oxidative damage induced by environmental contaminants like benzo(a)pyrene in erythrocyte hemolysates. A description of these studies can be found in K. Pandima Devi et al. “Silymarin Protection against Major Reactive Oxygen Species Released by Environmental Toxins: Exogenous H2O2 Exposure in Erythrocytes” Nordic Pharmacological Society. Basic & Clinical Pharmacology & Toxicology, 100, 414-419 , 2007.

Lipid peroxidation inhibition assay:

The candidates studied the effect of silymarin in the formula and compared the results of lipoperoxidation of the well-known tocopherol (ie vitamin E) to examine whether the chosen percentage had an effect in the formulation. The experiments involved taking sebum from the skin where an inventive formula was applied to confirm the reduction of lipid peroxidation. The reduction of lipid peroxidation is not common for many antioxidants and the level of silymarin at 0.5% has been shown to be well dosed compared to the effect of the well-known tocopherol at 0.5%. See it .

Indeed, it has been observed in the that the presence of silymarin in the Inventive formulas was able to prevent the formation of malondialdehyde after skin samples were exposed to UV light and was very effective.

Although the disclosure has been described with reference to disclosed embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various modifications may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of disclosure. In addition, many modifications may be made to adapt a particular situation or matter to the teachings of the Disclosure without departing from the essential scope of the Disclosure. Accordingly, it is intended that the disclosure not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best mode contemplated for effecting such disclosure, but that the disclosure shall include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

The articles "a" and "an", as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature of the elements in the embodiments of this disclosure described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single characteristic, unless such limitation is specifically stated. The article "the", "the", "the", "the" preceding nouns or nominal expressions in the singular or plural designates a particular specified characteristic or particular specified characteristics and may have a singular or plural connotation according to the context in which it is

The term "at least one", as used herein, means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of", when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claim with respect to the additional elements or steps not cited, if any, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). The term "comprising" is intended to be inclusive or open ended and does not exclude any additional elements, processes, steps or materials not listed. The term "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claim and, in the latter case, the impurities usually associated with the specified material(s). The term "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps or matter(s) and to those which do not materially affect the fundamental and novel feature(s). of the claimed disclosure. All of the materials and methods described herein that constitute this disclosure may, in alternate embodiments, be defined more specifically by one of the transitional terms "comprising", "consisting essentially of", and "consisting of".

The terms "free" and "free" indicate that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the composition, generally 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The term "substantially free" means that, although it is preferred that no excluded material be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the beneficial properties of the composition. In particular, "essentially free" means that the excluded material may be present in the composition in an amount less than about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Outside of the working examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about", i.e. i.e. within 10% of the number indicated (for example, "about 10%" means 9% to 11% and "about 2%" means 1.8% to 2.2%).

All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are calculated on the basis of the total composition, unless otherwise indicated. As a general rule, unless expressly stated otherwise, "weight" or "quantity", as used herein in relation to the percentage quantity of an ingredient, refers to the quantity of raw material composing the ingredient, the raw material being able to be described in the present document as having a lower activity and going up to 100% of the ingredient. Therefore, the weight percentage of an active in a composition is represented by the amount of raw material containing the active that is used, and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, wherein the final percentage of the The active depends on the percentage by weight of the active in the raw material.

The terms "percentage by weight" and "% by weight" can be used interchangeably and mean percentage by weight, based on the total weight of a composition, article or material, unless this can be specified in this which relates, for example, to a phase or system which is a component of a composition, article or material. All ranges and quantities given herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any point disclosed as an endpoint. Thus, a range of "1% to 10%, e.g. 2% to 8%, e.g. 3% to 5%" is intended to encompass ranges of "1% to 8%", "1% to 5%" , “2% to 10%”, etc. All figures, quantities, ranges, etc., are intended to be modified by the term "approximately", whether or not expressly stated. Similarly, a given range of "about 1% to 10%" is meant to have the term "about" modifying both the 1% and 10% thresholds. Further, it is understood that where an amount of a component is given, it is intended to mean the amount of active ingredient, unless expressly stated otherwise.

Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values given in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective test measurements. The following example serves to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure without being limiting.

All publications and patent applications cited in this specification are hereby incorporated by reference, and for all intents and purposes, as if each individual publication or patent application were specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated by reference. In the event of any inconsistency between this disclosure and any publication or patent application incorporated herein by reference, this disclosure prevails.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
a) about 0.1 to about 1.8% by weight Silybum Marianum extract;
b) one or more active agents for the skin chosen from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, a derivative of cinnamic acid or a mixture thereof;
c) one or more surfactants;
d) from about 3 to about 15% by weight propylene glycol;
e) from about 5 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; And
f) water; And
wherein the composition has a pH no greater than about 5; And
in which all the percentages by weight are related to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of propylene glycol to dipropylene glycol is from about 1:6 to about 1:1. Composition according to claim 1, in which the total amount of skin care actives present in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 20% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, further comprising a glycol other than propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol and chosen from ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol (=1,2-propanediol), caprylyl glycol, glycerine and a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the one or more surfactants are present in a proportion of approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition demonstrates solubility and stability of Silybum Marianum extract at temperatures ranging from about 5ºC to about 45ºC and at a pH no greater than about 5 . Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the water is present in a proportion of approximately 35 to approximately 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the cinnamic acid derivative is ferulic acid. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the one or more skin-active agents comprise salicylic acid and ascorbic acid. A method for preventing or minimizing lipoperoxidation activity on the skin, the method comprising applying a cosmetic composition comprising:

1. about 0.1 to about 1.8% by weight Silybum Marianum extract;
2. one or more active ingredients for the skin chosen from salicylic acid, ascorbic acid, a derivative of cinnamic acid or a mixture thereof;
3. one or more surfactants;
4. from about 3 to about 15% by weight propylene glycol;
5. from about 8 to about 18% by weight dipropylene glycol; And
6. some water ; And

wherein the composition has a pH no greater than about 5; And
wherein all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.