FR3131837A1 - STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A RETINOID AND AN ASCORBIC ACID COMPOUND - Google Patents

Abstract

Stable composition comprising a retinoid and an ascorbic acid compound The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (1) a plurality of capsules each of which comprises at least one core, and at least one shell surrounding the core, wherein the core comprises (a ) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide; and (2) an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water, wherein the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase. The composition according to the present invention is stable and the color change (in particular, the brightness) of the composition over time can be reduced. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

STABLE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A RETINOID AND AN ASCORBIC ACID COMPOUND

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, which is stable and comprises at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound.

context of art

Retinoids are known to be useful in the field of, for example, cosmetics because they can function as anti-aging active ingredients that can be used for the treatment of wrinkles and others.

Ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbic acid compounds) are commonly used because of their many beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and in particular collagen, strengthens the defenses of the skin tissue against external aggressions, such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the skin's vitamin E deficiency, depigments the skin and plays a role in the fight against free radicals. These last two properties make it an excellent candidate as a cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient to fight against skin aging or to prevent skin aging.

disclosure of the invention

It has been discovered that if a retinoid and an ascorbic acid compound are brought into contact in the same composition, the composition is destabilized such that the color (in particular, the brightness among the three color attributes) of the composition exchange.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition including both at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound, in which the composition is stable so that the change in color (in particular, the brightness) of the composition can be reduced.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

1. a plurality of capsules each comprising

at least one nucleus, and

at least one shell surrounding the core,

in which

the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and

the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide;

And

(2) an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water,

in which

the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase.

The (a) retinoid may be retinol.

The quantity of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 10% by weight, and more preferred between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) oil may be chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue.

The (b) oil may be chosen from vegetable oils, preferably selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil, and a mixture of these.

The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and so more preferred from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) polysaccharide may be chosen from agar, alginate, carrageenan and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 % to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) ascorbic acid compound may be chosen from ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid esters and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of the (d) ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can range from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The core may further comprise (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent, preferably chosen from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and more preferably chosen from the group consisting of tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture of these.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the amended claims can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3%. by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may further comprise (g) at least one compound capable of giving its solution a transmittance less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, and more preferably less than or equal to 2%. for light whose wavelength is between 290 and 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, the concentration of the compound in the solution being 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution .

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition including both at least one retinoid and at least one ascorbic acid compound, in which the composition is stable so that the change in color (in particular , brightness) of the composition can be reduced.

The composition according to the present invention can be characterized by separating a retinoid and an ascorbic acid compound in a single composition by encapsulating the retinoid in a capsule such that the ascorbic acid compound which is not present in the capsule hardly contacts the retinoid in the capsule.

Since contact between the retinoid and the ascorbic acid compound in a single composition is limited in the present invention, destabilization (e.g., change in color, particularly brightness) of the composition caused by contact of the retinoid and the compound ascorbic acid can be reduced.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention is stable and the change in color (in particular, brightness) of the composition over time can be reduced.

According to the present invention, the capsule includes not only a retinoid but also an oil, and the capsules are dispersed in an aqueous phase including the ascorbic acid compound and water. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W type.

Since the composition according to the present invention is stable or the color change (in particular, brightness) of the composition over time can be reduced, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long time.

The composition according to the present invention can offer cosmetic effects thanks, at least, to the retinoid and the ascorbic acid compound included in the composition.

The composition according to the present invention can provide stable cosmetic effects, such as anti-aging (for example, reducing wrinkles), whitening the skin, improving the dull appearance of the skin, and Improvement in the softness of the skin, over time, thanks to the retinoid and the ascorbic acid compound in the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may include a higher amount of retinoid and a higher amount of ascorbic acid compound. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide enhanced cosmetic effects, and possibly synergistic cosmetic effects, by a combination of the higher amount of retinoid and the higher amount of ascorbic acid compound.

Below, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Retinoid]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one retinoid. Two or more retinoids may be used in combination. So, a single type of retinoid or a combination of different types of retinoids can be used.

The (a) retinoid may be retinol (vitamin A), retinal (vitamin A aldehyde), retinoic acid (vitamin A acid), or an ester of retinol and a C _2-20 acid, such as retinol propionate, acetate, linoleate or palmitate (retinyl palmitate).

For (a) retinoid, mention may be made of retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, in particular all-trans retinoic acid and 13-cis retinoic acid, retinol derivatives, such as retinol acetate, propionate or palmitate, and the retinoids described in the following patent applications: FR 2 370 377, EP 0 199 636. EP 0 325 540 and EP 0 402 072:

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (a) retinoid is retinol or proretinol.

By “retinol” we mean all isomers of retinol, i.e. all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol, 9-cis retinol and 3,4-didehydro retinol.

As a representative of proretinol, we can cite retinyl palmitate.

It is preferable that the (a) retinoid is retinol.

The amount of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0 .1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alternatively, the quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1.0% by weight or more, and more preferably 1.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alternatively, the quantity of (a) retinoid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.5% and 15% by weight, preferably between 1.0% and 10% by weight, so as to more preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Oil]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one oil. Two or more oils can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils can be used.

By “oil”, we mean here a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those typically used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

It is preferable that the (a) retinoid is soluble in the (b) oil. In other words, it is best to use the (b) oil in which the (a) retinoid is soluble.

The (b) oil can be chosen from polar or non-polar oils.

Here we mean “polar oil” any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter δ _d characteristic of dispersive interactions greater than 16 and a solubility parameter δ _p characteristic of polar interactions strictly greater than 0. The parameters of solubility δ _d and δ _p are defined according to the Hansen classification.

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

δ _D characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;

δ _p characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

δ _h characterizes specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.

δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a =(δ _p ² +δ _h ¹ ) ^1/ 2. The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _d and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

It may be preferable for the polar oil to be selected from the group consisting of vegetable or animal oils, such as triglycerides, ester oils, ether oils and mixtures thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of ester oils. , ether oils and their mixtures, and even more preferably in ester oils.

The polar oil can be chosen in particular from the following oils:

- polar oils based on hydrocarbons such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters glycerol fatty acids, in particular the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃₆ , and in particular from C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ , these oils being able to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil (820.6 g/mol), corn oil, apricot oil, oil castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil , alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, oil cocoanut tree, passionflower oil or rosehip oil; shea butter; or even caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;

- synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

- hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate , esters of isopropyl alcohols, such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl diheptanoate polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, e.g. isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate and 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, for example isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate and myristyl myristate;

- polyesters obtained by condensation of a dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. In this regard, we can cite in particular the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer), or even copolymers of polyols and dimeric diacids, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;

- fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;

- higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

- fatty acids containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid;

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; And

- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 400 and 10,000 g/mol, in particular between 650 and 10,000 g/mol, for example:

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW=7300 g/mol),

ii) esters such as:

a) esters of linear fatty acids whose total carbon number is between 35 and 70, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW=697.05 g/mol),

b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW=965.58 g/mol),

c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757.19 g/mol), a C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoic acid ester and butyloctyl salicylate,

d) esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g /mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW=697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW=891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW=1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW=1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232.04 g/mol) or even pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW= 1538.66 g/mol),

e) esters and polyesters of dimer diol and monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175,338, the content of which is incorporated with reference to this application,

- and their mixtures.

The term “polar oil based on hydrocarbons” is understood here to mean a polar oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

It is preferable that the (b) oil has a logP value of 7.0 or less, more preferably 6.5 or less, and even more preferably 6.0 or less. It may be preferable that the (b) oil has a logP value of 1.0 or more, more preferably 1.5 or more, and even more preferably 2.0 or more. Thus, it may be preferable for the (b) oil to have a logP value of between 1.0 and 7.0, more preferably between 1.5 and 6.5, and even more preferably between 2.0 and 6.0.

A logP value is a base ten logarithm value of the apparent octan-1-ol/water partition coefficient. The logP values are known and are determined by a typical test which determines the concentration of (b) oil in octan-1-ol and water. The logP can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom/Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients , J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software programs, which determine the logP based on the structure of a molecule. As an example, we can cite the Epiwin software from the United States Environmental Agency.

The values can in particular be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) software Solaris V4.67; they can also be obtained in Exploring QSAR: hydrophobic, electronic and steric constants (ACS professional reference book, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values (address: http://esc.syrres.com/interkow/kowdemo.htm).

The (b) oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of an amide bond, an ester bond and mixtures thereof. The amide bond here means -CONR- (R denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C18 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group) and the ester bond here means -COO-. In other words, the (b) oil may have two or more amide bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one amide bond and at least one ester bond.

The (b) oil may have at least two moieties selected from the group consisting of an ether bond, an ester bond, and mixtures thereof. The ether bond here means -O- and the ester bond here means -COO-. In other words, the (b) oil may have two or more ether bonds, two or more ester bonds, or a mixture of at least one ether bond and at least one ester bond.

It may be preferable that (b) oil is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, octyldodecanol and a mixture thereof.

On the other hand, as an example of a non-polar oil, we can cite squalane.

The (b) oil can be chosen from triglycerides. Triglyceride is an ester derived from glycerol and three fatty acids, and may be referred to as triacylglycerol.

It is preferable that the triglyceride for (b) oil has at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride of (b) oil is an ester derived from glycerol and at least one unsaturated fatty acid. Thus, the triglyceride for (b) oil can be (i) an ester derived from glycerol and an unsaturated fatty acid and two saturated fatty acids, (ii) an ester derived from glycerol and two unsaturated fatty acids and d 'a saturated fatty acid, or (iii) an ester derived from three unsaturated fatty acids. If two or more unsaturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different. If two saturated fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

According to the present invention, the term “unsaturated fatty acid” means a fatty acid comprising at least one carbon-carbon double or triple bond. These are more particularly long-chain fatty acids, that is to say which can contain 8 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms. .

Fatty acids can be monounsaturated such as petroselenic acid (C12), palmitoleic acid (C16) and oleic acid (C18), or can be polyunsaturated, i.e. having at least two double carbon bonds -carbon, such as linoleic acid (C18) and linolenic acid (C18).

It is more preferable that the triglyceride of (b) oil has at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid residue. In other words, it is more preferable that the triglyceride for (b) oil is an ester derived from glycerol and at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid.

The polyunsaturated fatty acid can be chosen from ω-3, ω-6 and ω-9 fatty acids, characterized by the unsaturation position closest to the terminal methyl group.

The polyunsaturated fatty acid comprising between 18 and 22 carbon atoms, in particular those chosen from ω-3 and ω-6 fatty acids, may be more preferable.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-3 series, we can cite α-linolenic acid (18:3, ω-3), stearidonic acid (18:4, ω-3), acid 5, 8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (20:5, ω-3), and 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (22:6, ω-3), docosapentaenoic acid (22.5, ω-3) and n-butyl-5,11,14-eicosatrienonic acid.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids of the ω-6 series, we can cite linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and two unsaturations (18:2, ω-6), γ-linolenic acid with 18 carbon atoms and three unsaturations (18:3, ω-6), dihomogamalinolenic acid with 20 carbon atoms and 3 unsaturations (20:3, ω-6), arachidonic acid or 5,8,11,14 eicosatetraenoic acid ( 20:4, ω-6), and docosatetraenoic acid (22:4, ω-6).

As a ω-9 fatty acid, we can cite Mead's acid (20:3, ω-9).

The polyunsaturated fatty acid may be chosen from α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.

The amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for (b) oil may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and so more preferably 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the fatty acids.

The weight ratio quantity of polyunsaturated fatty acid(s) / quantity of monounsaturated fatty acid(s) among the fatty acids forming the fatty acid residues in the triglyceride for the (b) oil can be greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 1.5, and more preferably greater than 2.0.

The (b) oil can be chosen from vegetable oils.

For example, (b) oil may be selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, canola oil, cottonseed oil, rice oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, linseed oil, and a mixture of these.

It is preferable that (b) oil is selected from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grapeseed oil and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, so as to more preferred between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) oil(s) can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention. The (b) oil can form fatty phases dispersed in the composition according to the present invention.

[Polysaccharide]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide. Only one type of polysaccharide can be used, but two or more different types of polysaccharides can be used in combination.

It is preferable that the (c) polysaccharide is chosen from polysaccharides derived from plants. In other words, it is preferable that the (c) polysaccharide is of plant origin.

On the other hand, it is also preferable that the (c) polysaccharide is not chosen from cellulose and its derivatives.

According to the present invention, the term “polysaccharides of plant origin” is understood in particular to mean polysaccharides obtained from the plant kingdom (plants or algae), as opposed to polysaccharides obtained by biotechnological means, as is the case for example for gum. xanthan, which is produced in particular by fermentation of a bacteria, Xanthomonas campestris.

As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin which can be used according to the present invention, the following may be cited in particular:

a) seaweed extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. As an example of carrageenans, we can include Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; as alginate, we can cite sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP;

b) gums, such as guar gum and its non-ionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum or locust bean gum; examples that can be cited include guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan and konjac® gum (1% gluconomannan) sold by the company GfN;

c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for example wheat, corn or rice, from legumes, for example blond peas, from tubers, for example apple starches earth or cassava, and tapioca; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; we can notably cite Rémy DR I® rice starch sold by the Rémy company; corn starch B® from the company Roquette; potato starch modified by 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized by sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch;

d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from the company National Starch; And

their mixtures.

Preferably, the (c) polysaccharide is chosen from algae extracts.

Seaweed extracts can be chosen from alginates, carrageenans and agars, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, alginates or agars, or mixtures thereof, may be used.

The quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.005% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to at 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (c) polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the polysaccharide(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.001% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 3% by weight, more preferably between 0. 01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Ascorbic acid compound]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound. Only one type of ascorbic acid compound can be used, but two or more different types of ascorbic acid compounds can be used in combination.

The term “ascorbic acid compound” here includes ascorbic acid or vitamin C, and its derivatives.

Ascorbic acid is usually, but not necessarily, in the L form if extracted from natural products.

The ascorbic acid derivative may be a salt of ascorbic acid, such as sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate and calcium ascorbate.

Due to its chemical structure (α-keto lactone), which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use an ascorbic acid derivative in the form of a saccharide ester of ascorbic acid or of a metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid.

The ascorbic acid saccharide esters which can be used in the present invention include glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated, N-acetylglucosaminated, N-acetylmuraminated derivatives of ascorbic acid and their mixtures, and more particularly ascorbyl-2. glucoside or 2-O-α-D glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid or 6-O-D galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds and their preparation processes are described in particular in documents EP-A-487 404, EP-A-425 066 and J-05 213 736.

For its part, the metal salt of phosphorylated ascorbic acid can be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

It may be preferable for the ascorbic acid derivatives to be chosen from salts of ascorbic acid or phosphorylated ascorbic acid, such as, in particular, sodium ascorbate, sodium or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, acetic ester of ascorbic acid, or sugar esters of ascorbic acid, including esters of saccharides and in particular such as glycosyl ascorbic acid.

If necessary, stabilization of ascorbic acid with respect to oxidation can be obtained by combining it with maleic anhydride derivatives, as described in patent application EP 1 374 852, or with polymers of imidazole, as described in patent application FR 2 832 630.

The (d) ascorbic acid compound is not lipophilic or oil soluble but hydrophilic or water soluble. Thus, it is preferable that the (d) ascorbic acid compound is not a fatty acid ester of ascorbic acid such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate and ascorbyl stearate.

It is best to use ascorbic acid as the (d) ascorbic acid compound.

The amount of the ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alternatively, the amount of the ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 3% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more. % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably preferred by 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.1% and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight, so as to more preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alternatively, the quantity of the ascorbic acid compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 3% and 25% by weight, preferably between 5% and 20% by weight, more preferably. between 10% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

The (e) water can form an aqueous phase, preferably a continuous aqueous phase, of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of the (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 55% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to at 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be between 50% and 90% by weight, preferably between 55% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 60% and 80% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Lipophilic antioxidant agent]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent. Only one type of lipophilic antioxidant agent can be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic antioxidant agent can be used in combination.

According to the present invention, antioxidant agents are compounds or substances which can trap the different radical forms which may be present in the skin; preferably, they simultaneously trap all the various radical forms present.

The (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent is different from (a) retinoid.

(f) lipophilic antioxidant agent means that the partition coefficient of the antioxidant agent between n-butanol and water is >1, more preferably >10 and even more preferably >100.

As (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents, mention may be made of phenolic antioxidants which have a hindered phenolic structure or a semi-hindered phenolic structure in the molecule. As specific examples of such compounds, we can cite

3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxybenzenepropanoic acid) whose INCI name is pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol, 2 ,6-di-tert-butyl-4-ethylphenol, mono- or di- or tri-(α-methylbenzyl)phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(4-ethyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,2' -methylenebis(4-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-butylidenebis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 4,4'-thiobis(3-methyl-6-tert-butylphenol), 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone, 2,5-di-tert-amylhydroquinone, tris[N-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)]isocyanurate, 1,1,3-tris( 2-methyl-4-hydroxy-5-tert-butylphenyl)butane, butylidene-1,1bis[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3-(3,5-di Octadecyl -tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate, tetrakis[methylene-3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionato]methane, bis[3-(3-tert-butyl- triethylene glycol 4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionate], 3,9-bis{2-[3-(3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl)propionyloxy]-1,1-dimethylethyl}-2 ,4,8,10-tetraoxaspiro [5. 5]undecane, 1,3,5-trimethyl-2,4,6-tris(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzyl)benzene, 2,2-thiodiethylenebis[3-(3,5-di -tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], N,N'-hexamethylenebis(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamide), 1,6-hexanediol bis[3-(3,5-di- tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl)propionate], 1,3,5-tris[(4-tert-butyl-3-hydroxy-2,6-xylyl)methyl]-1,3,5-triazine-2,4 ,6-trione, 2,4-bis(n-octylthio)-6-(4-hydroxy-3, 5-di-tert-butylanilino)-1,3,5-triazine, 2-tert-butyl-acrylate 6-(3'-tert-butyl-5'-methyl-2'-hydroxybenzyl)-4-methylphenyl, 2-[1-(2-hydroxy-3,5-di-tert-pentylphenyl)ethyl]-4, 6-di-tert-pentylphenyl acrylate, 4,6-bis[(octylthio)methyl]-o-cresol, 2,4-di-tert-butylphenyl-3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate and 1 ,6-hexanediolbis[3-(3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyphenyl) propionate].

As (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents, we can also cite: BHA (butylated hydroxyl anisole) and BHT (utilized hydroxyl toluene), vitamin E (or tocopherols and tocotrienol) and its derivatives, such as the phosphate derivative, for example TPNA® sold by the company Showa Denko, coenzyme Q10 (or ubiquinone), idebenone, certain carotenoids such as lutein, astaxanthin, beta-carotene, phenolic acids and derivatives (for example chlorogenic acid).

The (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents which may also be mentioned include dithiolanes, for example asparagusic acid, or their derivatives, for example siliceous dithiolane derivatives, in particular such as those described in patent application FR 2 908 769.

(f) Lipophilic antioxidant agents which may also be mentioned include:

glutathione and its derivatives (GSH and/or GSHOEt), such as glutathione alkyl esters (such as those described in patent applications FR 2 704 754 and FR 2 908 769);

cysteine and its derivatives, such as N-acetylcysteine or L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid. We can also refer to the cysteine derivatives described in patent applications FR 2 877 004 and FR 2 854 160;

certain oxidative stress defense enzymes, such as catalase, superoxide dismutase (SOD), lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases;

benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; pidolates (as described in particular in patent application EP 0 511 118); caffeic acid and its derivatives, gamma-oryzanol; melatonin, sulforaphane and extracts containing it (excluding watercress);

the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid, as described in particular in patent applications WO 94/11338, FR 2 698 095, FR 2 737 205 or EP 0 755 925;

deferoxamine (or deferal) as described in patent application FR 2 825 920.

The (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents which can also be used are chalcones, more particularly phloretin or neohesperidin, the diisopropyl ester of N,N'-bis(benzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid or a maritime pine bark extract such as PYCNOGENOL®.

As examples of (f) lipophilic antioxidant agents, mention may also be made of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl toluene, butylated hydroxyl anisole, palmitate ascorbyl, tocopherol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent is biodegradable. In this sense, BHT, which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as a (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent. Thus, it is preferable not to use BHT as a (f) lipophilic antioxidant agent. Furthermore, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of BHT.

The term “free” here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited quantity of BHT. However, it is preferable that the amount of BHT is limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is more preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include BHT.

More preferably, the lipophilic antioxidant agent (f) is chosen from tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more , and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the lipophilic antioxidant agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3 % by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Light shielding compound].

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (g) at least one compound which is capable of giving its solution a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, and more preferably 2% or less, for light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm, following a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of the (g) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight based on the total weight of the solution. Thus, a single type of such compound or a combination of different types of such compounds can be used.

The (g) compound can provide low light transmittance. Therefore, compound (g) may be referred to as a light shielding compound.

It is more preferable that the (g) compound is capable of imparting to a solution zero transmittance (0) for light of wavelength of 290 to 420 nm along a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of (g) compound in the solution is 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.

It is even more preferable that the (g) compound is capable of giving a solution zero transmittance (0) for light of wavelength of 290 to 420 nm following a light path length of 10 mm, in which the concentration of (g) compound in the solution is greater than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution.

The solvent in the solution is not limited as long as the (g) compound is solubilized in the solvent, and the solvent has no absorbance for light having a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm. For example, as a solvent, water and hydrophilic solvents such as ethanol can be used.

Transmittance can be measured by a spectrophotometer, for example a UV-Visible/NIR V-750 spectrophotometer from JASCO Corp.

The (g) compound may impart to a solution a transmittance of 10% or less, preferably 5% or less, more preferably 2% or less, and even more preferably zero (0)% for any light with a wavelength of 290 to 420 nm following a light path length of 10 mm. In other words, the solution of (g) compound can reduce or mask any light whose wavelength is between 290 nm and 420 nm.

The (g) compound can reduce or mask light with the above specific wavelength that could reach the (a) retinoid in the composition according to the present invention to cause the decomposition of the (a) retinoid. Therefore, the compound (g) can contribute to enhancing the photostability of the retinoid (a), and can reduce the decomposition of the retinoid (a) in the composition according to the present invention.

The (g) compound may be selected from the group consisting of polyphenols.

(Polyphenol)

By the term “polyphenol” is meant a compound containing a plurality of phenolic hydroxyl groups. Phenolic hydroxyl group means a hydroxyl group bonded to an aromatic ring such as a benzene ring and a naphthalene ring. The phenolic hydroxyl group may optionally be etherified or esterified.

The polyphenol can be chosen from those which have antioxidant activity.

The polyphenol can be chosen, for example, from flavonoids.

The preferred flavonoids may correspond to general formula (I):

(I)

in which

A", B", C" and D", independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;

E’’ represents H, -OH or -OX’, where X’ represents:

F", G" and J" represent, independently of each other, H, -OH or -OCH3; and

X ₁ represents -CH2-, -CO- or -CHOH-,

or the general formula (II):

(II)

in which

A', C' and D', independently of each other, represent H, -OH, -OCH ₃ , -R' or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH;

E’ represents H, -OH or -OR’, where R’ represents the residue of a sugar of formula R’OH; And

B', F', G' and J', independently of each other, represent H, OH, -OCH ₃ , -OCH ₂ -CH ₂ -OH, or -OR', where R' represents the residue of a sugar of formula R'OH.

Rutinose, glucose, apiose, rhamnose, robinose, neohesperidose, or a combination thereof, may be mentioned among the R'OH sugars.

The compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are known. They can be obtained in particular according to the processes described in “The Flavonoids”, Harborne J. B., Mabry T. J., Helga Mabry, 1975, pages 1 to 45.

The flavonoids can be chosen from flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavanols, flavanones, anthocyanidins and mixtures thereof.

Among the flavonoids which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made of taxifolin, catechin, epicatechin, eriodictyol, naringenin, rutin, glucosylrutin, troxerutin, chrysin, tangeretin, luteolin, epigallocatechin and epigallocatechin gallate, quercetin, isoquercetin, fisetin, kaempferol, galangin, gallocatechin and epicatechin gallate.

Certain usable polyphenols are present in plants from which they can be extracted in known ways. It is possible to use tea leaf extracts (Camellia sinensis or Camellia japonica). We will particularly mention the green tea extracts sold under the name SUNPHENON® by the Taiyo Company, which contain flavonoids in particular.

As a polyphenol, it is possible to use a mixture of glucosylrutin and rutin sold under the name ALPHA GLUCOSYL RUTIN by the company QINGDAO TAITONG PHARMACEUTICAL.

Among the polyphenols that can be used, we will also cite polyphenols such as carnosic acid and carnosol which can be extracted, for example, from rosemary, either by extraction followed by distillation (Chang et al., JOSC, Vol. 61, No. 6, June 1984), or by extraction with a polar solvent such as ethanol preceded by extraction with a non-polar solvent such as hexane to eliminate odorous substances, as described in document EP-A- 307,626.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from (2,5-dihydroxyphenyl)alkylenecarboxylic acids of formula (III) and their derivatives (in particular esters and amides):

(III)

in which

R ₁ " represents -O-Alk, OH or -N(r')(r"), where Alk denotes a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl or alkoxy groups, or a C ₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl,

r' and r" independently represent H, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₃ -C ₆ polyhydroxyalkyl, or r' and r'' form, together with an atom of nitrogen to which they are linked, a heterocycle,

r is a number, including zero, such that the chain -(CH ₂ ) _r -COR ₁ contains at most 21 carbon atoms,

R ₂ "and R ₃ " independently represent H or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl, R ₂ " may also represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy.

The compounds of formula (III) are known or can be prepared according to known processes, for example analogous to those described in patents FR-2 400 358 and FR-2 400 359.

The polyphenol can also be chosen from caffeic acid esters or amides.

Among the caffeic acid esters, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula (IV):

(IV)

in which

Z represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or the residue of a phytol.

Among the caffeic acid amides, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula (V):

(V)

in which

Z' represents a C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, in particular a C ₆ -C _{8 alkyl} .

The compounds of formula (IV) or (V) are known or can be prepared according to known methods.

The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be greater than or equal to 0.01% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the compound(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight, and more preferred between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Chelation agent]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one chelating agent. Only one type of chelating agent can be used, but two or more different types of chelating agents can be used in combination.

As (h) chelating agent, we can mention

(i) aminocarboxylic acids such as the following INCI name compounds: diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N acid ,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho- hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-acid N,N-diacetic and glyceryl-imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133), iminodiacetic-N-2-hydroxypropyl-sulfonic acid and N-carboxymethyl-aspartic acid N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in document EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic and aspartic acid-N -monoacetic (described in document EP-A-509 382), chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (as described in document EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid, such that the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel,

(ii) chelating agents based on mono- or polyphosphonic acid, such as the compounds with the following INCI name: diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic) acid (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP ), [0263]ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-diphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid ( ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), and hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP), and

(iii) chelating agents based on polyphosphoric acid, such as the compounds with the following INCI name: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives,

And

their mixtures.

It is preferable that the (h) chelating agent is biodegradable. In this sense, EDTA, which is not biodegradable, is not preferable as a (h)chelating agent. Thus, it is preferable not to use EDTA as a (h)chelating agent. Furthermore, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is free of EDTA.

The term “free” here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain a limited quantity of EDTA. However, it is preferable that the amount of EDTA is limited such that it is less than 1% by weight, more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0. 01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is entirely preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include EDTA.

More preferably, the (h) chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

The amount of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, compared to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, and more preferably less or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (h) chelating agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be between 0.001% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.005% and 2% by weight, more preferably between 0.01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Polyol]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or derivative thereof. The saccharide derivative includes a sugar alcohol that is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom or atoms in one or more several hydroxy groups thereof have or have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C ₂ -C ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol may be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

The amount of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight. or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of polyol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, such as 0. 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Other ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more monoalcohols which are in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25°C), such as for example linear or branched monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol and hexanol.

The amount of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be equal to or greater than 0.01% by weight, preferably equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably equal to or greater than 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 60% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 55% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the quantity of monoalcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 55% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 55% by weight. 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may also include various adjuvants conventionally used in cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic, and amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic, hydrophilic antioxidants, coloring agents, thickeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, co-preservatives and mixtures thereof, except for ingredients as explained above.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[Shape]

The composition according to the present invention comprises a plurality of capsules and an aqueous phase in which the capsules are dispersed in the aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water.

The capsule includes at least one core and at least one shell surrounding the core. It is preferable that the capsule comprises a core and at least one shell surrounding the core.

The shell includes at least one layer or film. The number of layers or films is not limited, but it is preferable that the case includes one layer or film.

The core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil. It is preferable that the core further comprises (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.

The shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide.

The (c) polysaccharide can form a capsule which can encapsulate (a) at least one retinoid together with (b) at least one oil, preferably together with (b) at least one oil and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent . Encapsulation of (a) at least one retinoid can prevent or reduce contact of (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and reduce color change (in particular, shine) of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, the capsule can accentuate the stability of the composition according to the present invention.

The capsule of (c) at least one polysaccharide including (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil may be prepared by surrounding or coating a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one an oil by (c) at least one polysaccharide. It is preferable that a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one oil, and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent is surrounded or coated by (c) at least one polysaccharide. It is more preferable that (a) at least one retinoid is solubilized in (b) at least one oil, then that (b) at least one oil is surrounded or coated by (c) at least one polysaccharide. The (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent can also be solubilized in (b) at least one oil.

The step of preparing or forming a capsule can be carried out by any conventional process. For example, it is possible to coextrude (i) a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil together with (ii) (c) at least one polysaccharide. In this case, the excluded mixture (i) can form a core, while (ii) (c) at least one polysaccharide can form a shell. The coextruded core/shell structure can transform into a core/shell particle that corresponds to the capsule. The mixture (i) above may also include (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent explained below.

The shape of the capsule is not limited. For example, the capsule may have the shape of a sphere.

The size of the capsule is not limited. It is possible for the size or diameter of the capsule to be 0.1 to 10 mm, preferably 0.5 to 5 mm, and more preferably 1 to 3 mm.

The capsule can be dispersed and suspended in the composition according to the present invention. The capsule can impart unique aspects to the composition according to the present invention.

According to the present invention, the capsule includes not only the (a) retinoid but also the (b) oil, and the capsules are dispersed in an aqueous phase including the (d) ascorbic acid compound and (e) water. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W type.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W type. It is more preferred that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion or an O/W dispersion which comprises fatty phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may be oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is even more preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion. In this case, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic thickener making it possible to gel the aqueous phase.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore the composition according to the present invention with the O/W architecture or structure can provide a sensation pleasant during use thanks to the immediate sensation of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

The composition according to the present invention may be transparent or translucent, preferably transparent.

Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, turbidity can be measured with a 2100Q (marketed by HACH) having a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm in height) and a tungsten filament lamp that can emit of visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The white can be determined with distilled water.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably have a turbidity less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, more preferably less than 100 NTU, and even more preferably less than 50 NTU.

[Process and usage]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratinous substance such as the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, to treat a keratinous substance such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, being applied to the keratinous substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous substance.

The composition according to the present invention can be used as, for example, an anti-aging, anti-wrinkle product, or promoting the renewal of a keratinous substance such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product for the skin.

The composition according to the present invention can also be used, for example, as a whitening product, an antioxidant, or promoting the synthesis of collagen for a keratinous substance such as the skin. In particular, the composition according to the present invention can be used as a whitening or anti-oxidant cosmetic product (for example, to reduce damage to the skin).

Another aspect of the present invention may relate to a use:

(1) a plurality of capsules each of which comprises

at least one nucleus, and

at least one shell surrounding the core,

in which

the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and

the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide;

in a composition comprising

(2) an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water,

in which

the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase

to stabilize the composition,

Or

to reduce color change (in particular, brightness) of the composition.

Another aspect of the present invention may also relate to a process for

prepare a stable composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, or

reduce the color change (in particular, the brightness) of a composition comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound,

including the steps of:

(i) formation of a plurality of capsules, each of which comprises

at least one nucleus, and

at least one shell surrounding the core,

Or

the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and

the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide; And

(ii) dispersion of the capsules in an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound and (e) water.

Step (i) of forming the capsules can be carried out by co-extrusion of a mixture comprising (a) at least one retinoid and (b) at least one oil, with (c) at least one polysaccharide.

In the above aspects, it is preferable that a mixture of (a) at least one retinoid, (b) at least one oil, and (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent is encapsulated by (c) at least one polysaccharide. Thus, it is preferable that the core further comprises (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent.

The above explanations regarding ingredients (a) to (f), as well as optional ingredients, for the composition according to the present invention may be applied to those for the above uses and processes according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the composition according to the present invention can also be applied to those of the composition cited in the uses and processes above.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples which should not, however, be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2]

The following compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 in the form of encapsulated O/W gel-type emulsions were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1.

The preparations of the encapsulated O/W gel type dispersions (examples 1 and 2) were carried out as follows:

(1) Mix phase A ingredients except retinol and heat to 75-80°C if it includes solid compound to form a uniform mixture, then cool to room temperature and introduce retinol to obtain a mixture uniform of phase A;

(2) mix the ingredients of phase B except ascorbic acid and heat to 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture, then cool to room temperature and introduce ascorbic acid to obtain a uniform mixture of phase B;

(3) mix the phase C ingredients at 80-90°C to form a uniform phase C mixture;

(4) coextruding the uniform mixture of phase A and the uniform mixture of phase C by encapsulating the former with the latter to prepare capsules in which the uniform mixture of phase A is coated and encapsulated with the uniform mixture of phase VS ;

(5) Add the capsules to the uniform mixture of phase B.

Then, each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 was divided into two groups.

One group was homogenized by a homogenizer, 15,000 rpm for 1 minute to break the capsules therein in order to prepare the composition according to comparative example 1 or 2. The other group was not subjected to the homogenizer to be used as a composition according to Example 1 or 2.

The numerical values of the component quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “wt%” of active raw materials.

Ingredients Example 1 Ex. 1 Comp. Example 2 Ex. 2 Comp. HAS Retinol 2,000 2,000 2,000 2,000 Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil 1,348 1,348 1,245 1,245 Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 0.522 0.522 0.522 0.522 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate - - 0.204 0.204 Butylparaben 0.130 0.130 0.152 0.152 Octyldodecanol 0.087 0.087 0.087 0.087 Squalane - - 0.087 0.087 Tocopherol 0.261 0.261 0.050 0.050 VS Water 2,851 2,851 2,851 2,851 Agar 0.032 0.032 0.032 0.032 Algin 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 B Water 68,266 68,266 70,314 70,314 Ascorbic acid 12,000 12,000 12,000 12,000 Pentylene glycol 3,000 3,000 3,000 3,000 Sodium hydroxide 2,700 2,700 2,700 2,700 Niacinamide 1,097 1,097 - - Glucosylrutin (and) Rutin 0.900 0.900 0.900 0.900 Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate (and) Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine 0.700 0.700 1,200 1,200 Hydroxypropyl guar chloride
hydroxypropyltrimonium - - 0.700 0.700 Cross-linked polyacrylate polymer-6 0.600 0.600 Hydroxyaceophenone 0.536 0.536 0.536 0.536 Polyquaternium-67 0.500 0.500 - - Propanediol 0.483 0.483 0.483 0.483 Tris citrate (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) 0.439 0.439 - - Caffeine 0.439 0.439 Xanthan gum (and) Ceratonia Siliqua gum (carob) 0.402 0.402 0.302 0.302 Chlorphenesin 0.279 0.279 0.279 0.279 Caprylyl glycol 0.205 0.205 0.205 0.205 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.137 0.137 0.062 0.062 Scent 0.070 0.070 0.070 0.070 xanthan gum 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004 Homogenization to break the capsules No Yes No Yes L value* 55ºC for 2 weeks 54.84 +/- 0.09 50.92 +/- 0.26 53.60 +/- 0.31 51.40 +/- 0.20 value a* 55ºC for 2 weeks 6.38 +/- 0.09 7.58 +/- 0.14 3.28 +/- 012 3.07 +/- 0.20 value b* 55ºC for 2 weeks 41.50 +/- 0.13 42.00 +/- 0.17 41.66 +/- 1.08 42.60 +/- 0.73

[Ratings]

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was loaded into a transparent container, and stored at 55ºC for 2 weeks. The color (L*a*b* values based on CIE1976) of each composition after storage was measured using the Konica Minolta CM-3600A.

For Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the above measurement was carried out three times, and the average value and standard deviation value were calculated for each of L*, a* and b values. *. The results are shown in Table 1. Then, a Student's t-test was performed. There was a significant difference (p<0.05).

For Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, the above measurement was carried out on three samples, and the average value and the standard deviation value were calculated for each of the values L*, a* and b*. The results are shown in Table 1. Then, a Student's t-test was performed. There was a significant difference (p<0.05).

The comparison between Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 demonstrates that limiting the contact between retinol and ascorbic acid by encapsulating the retinol contributed to improving color stability.

The comparison between Example 2 and Comparative Example 2 also demonstrates that limiting the contact between retinol and ascorbic acid by encapsulating the retinol contributed to improving color stability.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
(1) a plurality of capsules, each of which comprises
at least one nucleus, and
at least one shell surrounding the core,
in which
the core comprises (a) at least one retinoid, and (b) at least one oil, and
the shell comprises (c) at least one polysaccharide;
And
(2) an aqueous phase comprising (d) at least one ascorbic acid compound, and (e) water,
in which
the (1) capsules are dispersed in the (2) aqueous phase. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) retinoid is retinol. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the quantity of the (a) retinoid(s) in the composition is between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 10% by weight , and more preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (b) oil is chosen from triglycerides, preferably triglycerides having at least one unsaturated fatty acid residue, and more preferably triglycerides having at least a polyunsaturated fatty acid residue. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the (b) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, preferably chosen from the group consisting of soybean oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, grape seeds, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the quantity of the (b) oil(s) in the composition is between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 % and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the (c) polysaccharide is chosen from agar, alginate, carrageenan and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the (d) ascorbic acid compound is chosen from ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid esters and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the core further comprises (f) at least one lipophilic antioxidant agent, preferably chosen from biodegradable lipophilic antioxidant agents, and more preferably chosen from the group consisting of tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and a mixture thereof. Cosmetic process for treating a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratinous substance.