FR2648347A1 - Cosmetic preparations possessing emollient properties - Google Patents

Cosmetic preparations possessing emollient properties Download PDF

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Publication number
FR2648347A1
FR2648347A1 FR8908092A FR8908092A FR2648347A1 FR 2648347 A1 FR2648347 A1 FR 2648347A1 FR 8908092 A FR8908092 A FR 8908092A FR 8908092 A FR8908092 A FR 8908092A FR 2648347 A1 FR2648347 A1 FR 2648347A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic compositions
compositions according
vitamin
fatty acids
oils
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FR2648347B1 (en
Inventor
Daniel Greff
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Sederma SA
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Sederma SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C57/00—Unsaturated compounds having carboxyl groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms
    • C07C57/02—Unsaturated compounds having carboxyl groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms with only carbon-to-carbon double bonds as unsaturation
    • C07C57/03—Monocarboxylic acids
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C57/00—Unsaturated compounds having carboxyl groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms
    • C07C57/02—Unsaturated compounds having carboxyl groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms with only carbon-to-carbon double bonds as unsaturation
    • C07C57/03—Monocarboxylic acids
    • C07C57/12—Straight chain carboxylic acids containing eighteen carbon atoms

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing a combination of omega -3 polyunsaturated fatty acids, unsaponifiable fractions of vegetable fats and vitamin E. The preparations obtained are intended for combating the effects of agents that damage the skin.

Description

La peau est soumise en permanence à des agressions nombreuses
et variées qui peuvent etre regroupées en quatre grandes
catégories
- Les agressions par les radiations lumineuses et plus
particulièrement, par les radiations ultra-violettes du
soleil.The skin is constantly subjected to numerous attacks
and varied which can be grouped into four major
categories
- Attacks by light radiation and more
particularly by the ultra-violet radiation from
Sun.

- Les agressions chimiques occasionnées par les produits
d'entretien ou la pollution atmosphérique.- Chemical attacks caused by products
maintenance or air pollution.

- Les agressions mécaniques dues, par exemple, aux frottements
des vêtements.- Mechanical attacks due, for example, to friction
clothes.

- Les agressions thermiques consécutives au passage sans
transition d'une atmosphère surchauffée à une atmosphère
froide, ou inversement.- Thermal attacks following the passage without
transition from an overheated atmosphere to an atmosphere
cold, or vice versa.

Toutes ces agressions contribuent à altérer les lipides
épidermiques et les différentes macromolécules responsables des
propriétés mécaniques du derme (collagène, élastine, acide
hyaluronique ...). Il s'en suit à long terme un vieillissement
accéléré de la peau dont la manifestation la plus visible est
l'apparition de rides.All these attacks contribute to altering lipids
epidermals and the different macromolecules responsible for
mechanical properties of the dermis (collagen, elastin, acid
hyaluronic ...). Long-term aging follows
accelerated of the skin whose most visible manifestation is
the appearance of wrinkles.

La lutte contre ces différentes agressions constitue donc un
axe important de la cosmétologie moderne. Sachant que certaines
d'entre elles (telles que les radiations ultra-violettes ou
certains produits chimiques) induisent la formation de radicaux
libres au sein de la peau, des substances capables de piéger
les radicaux libres ont été introduites dans des produits
cosmétiques. Cependant, bien qu'ils présentent une activité
certaine, ces produits n'ont jusqu'à présent pas permis
d'obtenir le degré de protection escompté.The fight against these various aggressions therefore constitutes a
important axis of modern cosmetology. Knowing that some
of them (such as ultraviolet radiation or
certain chemicals) induce the formation of radicals
free within the skin, substances capable of trapping
free radicals have been introduced into products
cosmetics. However, although they exhibit activity
certain, these products have so far not allowed
obtain the expected degree of protection.

Or, il est apparu que l'association de trois familles de
principes actifs, constituées par
- des acides gras polyinsaturés enw3
- des fractions insaponifiables de matières grasses
d'origine végétale
- de la vitamine E présentait un effet protecteur très important vis-à-vis des agressions précitées, nettement supérieur à la protection qu'il est possible d'obtenir avec chacun de ces ingrédients pris individuellement ou combinés deux à deux. En effet, des essais réalisés en associant des acides gras polyinsaturés en ;3 aux fractions insaponifiables seules, ou à la vitamine E seule, et des essais réalisés en associant les fractions insaponifiables à la vitamine E, n'ont jamais permis de reproduire les résultats obtenus avec l'association des trois familles de produits, quelles que soient les concentrations utilisées. Il en résulte donc que l'association de ces trois types de substances présente un effet de synergie qui était a priori imprévisible.However, it appeared that the association of three families of
active ingredients, consisting of
- polyunsaturated fatty acids enw3
- unsaponifiable fractions of fat
of plant origin
- Vitamin E had a very significant protective effect against the aforementioned aggressions, clearly superior to the protection which it is possible to obtain with each of these ingredients taken individually or combined in pairs. Indeed, tests carried out by associating polyunsaturated fatty acids in; 3 with the unsaponifiable fractions alone, or with vitamin E alone, and tests carried out by associating the unsaponifiable fractions with vitamin E, have never made it possible to reproduce the results obtained with the association of the three families of products, whatever the concentrations used. It therefore follows that the combination of these three types of substances has a synergistic effect which was a priori unpredictable.

En ce qui concerne les principes actifs entrant dans la composition des préparations cosmétiques selon l'invention, leur nature peut être précisée comme suit - Par acides gras polyinsaturés en w3, on entend, conformément à
la nomenclature usuelle utilisée en biochimie, des acides gras
présentant plusieurs insaturations, dont la première est
située entre les carbones 3 et 4 comptés à partir du
groupement méthyle terminal opposé au groupement carboxylique.With regard to the active principles used in the composition of the cosmetic preparations according to the invention, their nature can be specified as follows - By polyunsaturated fatty acids in w3, is meant, in accordance with
the usual nomenclature used in biochemistry, fatty acids
with several unsaturations, the first of which is
located between carbons 3 and 4 counted from
terminal methyl group opposite the carboxylic group.

A titre exemple, et de façon non limitative, on peut citer
dans cette catégorie les acides d-linolénique (ou octadecatriéno'ique) (C18:3 W 3), octadêcatétraénolque
(Cl8: 4W3), éicosatétraénoique (C20:4W3), éicosapentaénoique
(C20:5G;3), docosapentanénoïque (C22:5o3) et
docosahexaéno'ique (C22:6aJ3). Ils peuvent être introduits sous
la forme d'acides gras libres, ou estérifiés dans des
triglycérides, des phospholipides ou des sphingolipides. Ces
molécules peuvent etre incorporées sous la forme de substances
pures ou en tant que composants d'huiles naturelles. Dans ce
dernier cas, on peut utiliser avantageusement des huiles
extraites de poisson, préférentiellement désodorisées, ou
d'algues (macroalgues ou microalgues). Ces huiles possèdent en
effet la propriété d'être particulièrement riches en acides
gras polyinsaturés en03. By way of example, and without limitation, there may be mentioned
in this category d-linolenic (or octadecatrienoic) acids (C18: 3 W 3), octadecatetraenol
(Cl8: 4W3), eicosatetraenoic (C20: 4W3), eicosapentaenoic
(C20: 5G; 3), docosapentanenoic (C22: 5o3) and
docosahexaenoic (C22: 6aJ3). They can be entered under
the form of free fatty acids, or esterified in
triglycerides, phospholipids or sphingolipids. These
molecules can be incorporated as substances
pure or as components of natural oils. In this
last case, oils can advantageously be used
extracted from fish, preferably deodorized, or
algae (macroalgae or microalgae). These oils have
effect the property of being particularly rich in acids
polyunsaturated fat en03.

- Par fractions insaponifiables de matières grasses
végétales, on entend, en accord avec la terminologie usuelle
de l'industrie chimique, la fraction des corps gras d'origine
végétale qui, après action prolongée d'une base alcaline,
reste insoluble dans l'eau et peut être extraite par un
solvant organique. Il s'agit toujours de mélanges complexes
qui peuvent contenir des hydrocarbures aliphatiques, des
terpènes et leurs dérivés, des stérols, des tocophérols ainsi
qu'un grand nombre de substances complexes, le plus souvent
non encore identifiées. Ces insaponifiables peuvent être
obtenus a partir de matières grasses végétales se présentant à
température ambiante sous forme liquide ou solide, selon
n'importe quel procédé classique. Ces derniers font
généralement intervenir une première phase de saponification
de la matière grasse au moyen de soude ou de potasse, à froid
ou à chaud, suivie d'une phase d'extraction avec des solvants
tels que, par exemple et de façon non limitative : de l'éther
de pétrole, de l'hexane, du dichloréthane, de l'éther
éthylique, de l'acétone ou du benzène. Les matières grasses
servant à préparer la fraction insaponifiable peuvent être
extraites d'un très grand nombre de plantes. On peut citer à
titre d'exemple et de façon non limitative les amandes douces,
l'avocat, le café, les pépins de framboise, le fénugrec, les
germes de blé, le karité, la luzerne, le maïs, l'olive,
l'onagre, ltes pépins de raisin, le soja et le voacanga.- By unsaponifiable fractions of fat
plants, we mean, in accordance with the usual terminology
of the chemical industry, the fraction of original fatty substances
vegetable which, after prolonged action of an alkaline base,
remains insoluble in water and can be extracted by a
organic solvent. These are always complex mixtures
which may contain aliphatic hydrocarbons,
terpenes and their derivatives, sterols, tocopherols as well
that a large number of complex substances, most often
not yet identified. These unsaponifiables can be
obtained from vegetable fats occurring in
room temperature in liquid or solid form, depending on
any conventional process. These make
generally intervene a first phase of saponification
fat using soda or potash, cold
or hot, followed by an extraction phase with solvents
such as, for example and without limitation: ether
petroleum, hexane, dichloroethane, ether
ethyl, acetone or benzene. Fatty substances
used to prepare the unsaponifiable fraction can be
extracted from a very large number of plants. We can cite to
by way of example and without limitation, sweet almonds,
avocado, coffee, raspberry seeds, fenugreek,
wheat germ, shea, alfalfa, corn, olive,
evening primrose, grape seeds, soybeans and voacanga.

- En ce qui concerne la vitamine E, on peut utiliser les
tocophérols x, ss, r ou (, soit individuellement,
soit sous forme de mélanges. Ces tocophérols peuvent être
introduits sous forme libre, à l'état pur ou en association
avec des huiles, ou comme constituants d'huiles naturelles
riches en vitamine E, ou sous forme d'acétates. Le mode
d'action des produits obtenus selon l'invention n'est pas
encore parfaitement élucidé. Il est clair que la vitamine E
agit en tant que piégeur de radicaux libres. Les fractions
insaponifiables de matières grasses végétales et les acides
gras polyinsaturés en W3 pourraient avoir une activité anti
inflammatoire, ces derniers plus spécifiquement en réprimant
la synthèse des prostaglandines. Quant-à l'effet de synergie
obtenue par l'association des trois types de principes actifs,
son origine demeure inexpliquée.- Regarding vitamin E, we can use the
tocopherols x, ss, r or (either individually,
either in the form of mixtures. These tocopherols can be
introduced in free form, in pure form or in combination
with oils, or as constituents of natural oils
rich in vitamin E, or in the form of acetates. The mode
of action of the products obtained according to the invention is not
still perfectly understood. It is clear that vitamin E
acts as a free radical scavenger. Fractions
unsaponifiable from vegetable fats and acids
polyunsaturated fats in W3 could have anti activity
inflammatory, these more specifically by suppressing
prostaglandin synthesis. As for the synergistic effect
obtained by the association of the three types of active ingredients,
its origin remains unexplained.

Les produits réalisés selon l'invention peuvent être employés avantageusement pour la lutte contre les différentes formes de stress pouvant affecter la peau. Ils peuvent en particulier et de façon non limitative, être utilisés comme produits solaires ou après solaires, ou, d'une façon plus générale comme produits destinés à lutter contre les effets du stress, physiologique et psychologique.The products produced according to the invention can be used advantageously for combating the various forms of stress that can affect the skin. They can in particular and without limitation, be used as sun products or after sun, or, more generally as products intended to combat the effects of stress, physiological and psychological.

A ce sujet, il est apparu lors des essais, et cela cons -- tue également l'une des caractéristiques de cette invention, qu'il était possible d'obtenir des produits efficaces pour une gamme étendue de concentrations en principes actifs. En particulier, le fait de modifier les proportions entre les différentes familles de principes actifs ou les concentrations absolues de ces principes actifs dans le produit permet de moduler son action et de l'orienter plus spécifiquement vers un domaine d'activité donné. Cependant, le mécanisme d'action des produits réalisés selon l'invention n'étant pas exactement connu, il n'est pas possible de prévoir a priori vers quelle forme de protection particulière s'orientera préférentiellement une formulation donnée. Seuls des essais permettent de la déterminer.On this subject, it appeared during tests, and this also constitutes one of the characteristics of this invention, that it was possible to obtain products which are effective for a wide range of concentrations of active principles. In particular, the fact of modifying the proportions between the different families of active principles or the absolute concentrations of these active principles in the product makes it possible to modulate its action and to orient it more specifically towards a given field of activity. However, the mechanism of action of the products produced according to the invention not being exactly known, it is not possible to predict a priori towards which particular form of protection will preferentially orient a given formulation. Only tests can determine it.

Les principes actifs entrant dans la composition des produits réalisés selon l'invention étant tous de nature lipidique, il est souhaitable que les préparations cosmétiques dans lesquelles ils doivent être incorporés comportent une phase grasse dans laquelle ils peuvent se dissoudre. Les produits selon l'invention peuvent donc indifféremment etre des crèmes, des laits ou des huiles. Les principes actifs peuvent également être incorporés à l'intérieur de membranes de liposomes ou a l'intérieur de micro ou nanocapsules ou de micro ou nanoparticules à coeur hydrophobe. Ces différents types de vecteurs renfermant les principes actifs selon l'invention, peuvent être dispersés non seulement dans crèmes , des laits ou des huiles, mais également dans des gels aqueux.Since the active ingredients used in the composition of the products produced according to the invention are all lipid in nature, it is desirable that the cosmetic preparations in which they are to be incorporated include an oily phase in which they can dissolve. The products according to the invention can therefore either be creams, milks or oils. The active ingredients can also be incorporated inside liposome membranes or inside micro or nanocapsules or micro or nanoparticles with a hydrophobic core. These different types of vectors containing the active principles according to the invention can be dispersed not only in creams, milks or oils, but also in aqueous gels.

Des exemples non limitatifs de compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention sont présentés ci-dessous 1) Crème contre le stress
Stéarate de sorbitan .................... 3,00
Polysorbate 60 * 4,00
Alcool cétylique .................... 1,50
Huile d'algues .................... 20,00
Insaponifiable de karité .................... 2,00
Acétate de vitamine E .................... 1,00
p-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle ............. 0,30
Eau ....................................... 68,00
Parfum .................................... 0,20
2) Crème contre le stress
Stéarate de triéthanolamine *e 3,00
Stéarate de glycérol .................... 3,00
Alcool cétylique .................... 2,00
Huile de poisson .................... 1,00
Insaponifiable de karité ............ 0,20
Insaponifiable de mais ............... 0,01
Acétate de vitamine E ............... 0,10
p-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle ........... 0,30
Eau ....................................... 88, 64
Sorbitol .................................. 1,00
parfum .................................... 0,15 3) Lait contre le stress
Polysorbate 60 ......................... 1,50
Alcool oléique .......................... 0,50
Cire d'abeille ......................... 1,50
Huile de vaseline ..................... 3,00
Acide éicosapentaénoique ............... 0,30
Acide docosahexaénoique , 0,15
Insaponifiable de Karité ................ 0,10
Acétate de vitamine E .................. 0,50
p-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle ........... 0,30
Eau .................................... 87,55
Carbopol 940 ........................... 0,20
Triéthanolamine ....................... 0,20
Glycérine ............................. 4,00
Parfum ................................ 0,20
4) Gels aux liposomes
Carbopol 1342 ........................... 0,40
PEG-8 ............................ 0,50
Glycérine ............................... 5,00
Huile de silicone ...................... 1,00
p-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle ........... 0,30
Eau ..................................... 62,40
Trièthanolamine ......................... 0,40
Liposomes (contenant : acide éicosa- .. 30,00
pentaénoïque 0,1 % - insaponifiable
d'onagre 0,1 % - # tocopherol 0,1 %)
5) Huile contre le stress
Huile de vaseline ..................... 92,50
Huile de poisson ..................... 1,00
Huile d'algues ........................ 4,00
Insaponifiable de karité ............... 1,00
Insaponifiable de malus ................ 0,50
Acétate de vitamine E ................. 1,00 Nonlimiting examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention are presented below 1) Cream against stress
Sorbitan stearate .................... 3.00
Polysorbate 60 * 4.00
Cetyl alcohol .................... 1.50
Seaweed oil .................... 20.00
Unsaponifiable with shea .................... 2.00
Vitamin E acetate .................... 1.00
methyl p-hydroxybenzoate ............. 0.30
Water ....................................... 68.00
Perfume .................................... 0.20
2) Cream against stress
Triethanolamine stearate * e 3.00
Glycerol stearate .................... 3.00
Cetyl alcohol .................... 2.00
Fish oil .................... 1.00
Unsaponifiable with shea ............ 0.20
Unsaponifiable with corn ............... 0.01
Vitamin E acetate ............... 0.10
methyl p-hydroxybenzoate ........... 0.30
Water ....................................... 88, 64
Sorbitol .................................. 1.00
perfume .................................... 0.15 3) Milk against stress
Polysorbate 60 ......................... 1.50
Oleic alcohol .......................... 0.50
Beeswax ......................... 1.50
Vaseline oil ..................... 3.00
Eicosapentaenoic acid ............... 0.30
Docosahexaenoic acid, 0.15
Unsaponifiable with Shea ................ 0.10
Vitamin E acetate .................. 0.50
methyl p-hydroxybenzoate ........... 0.30
Water .................................... 87.55
Carbopol 940 ........................... 0.20
Triethanolamine ....................... 0.20
Glycerin ............................. 4.00
Perfume ................................ 0.20
4) Liposome gels
Carbopol 1342 ........................... 0.40
PEG-8 ............................ 0.50
Glycerin ............................... 5.00
Silicone oil ...................... 1.00
methyl p-hydroxybenzoate ........... 0.30
Water ..................................... 62.40
Triethanolamine ......................... 0.40
Liposomes (containing: eicosa- acid .. 30.00
pentaenoic 0.1% - unsaponifiable
evening primrose 0.1% - # tocopherol 0.1%)
5) Oil against stress
Vaseline oil ..................... 92.50
Fish oil ..................... 1.00
Seaweed oil ........................ 4.00
Unsaponifiable with shea ............... 1.00
Unsaponifiable with penalty ................ 0.50
Vitamin E acetate ................. 1.00

Claims (12)

docosapentaénoique (C22:5#3), docosahexaénoique (C22:6#3).  docosapentaenoic (C22: 5 # 3), docosahexaenoic (C22: 6 # 3). (C20:4#3), éicosapentaénoique (C20:5#3),  (C20: 4 # 3), eicosapentaenoic (C20: 5 # 3), octadécatértraénoique (C18:4#3), élcosatétraénoique octadecatertraenoic (C18: 4 # 3), ecosatetraenoic sont choisis parmi les acides k-linolénique (Cl8:33)  are chosen from k-linolenic acids (Cl8: 33) caractérisées en ce que les acides gras polyinsaturés en#3  characterized in that the polyunsaturated fatty acids in # 3 - vitamine E - Vitamin E 2. Compositions cosmétiques selon la revendication 12. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1 grasses végétales vegetable fats - une ou plusieurs fractions insaponifiables de matières - one or more unsaponifiable fractions of matter - un ou plusieurs acides gras polyinsaturés en03  - one or more polyunsaturated fatty acids en03 principes actifs suivants following active ingredients contiennent une association de chacun des trois types de contain an association of each of the three types of REVENDICATIONS 1. Compositions cosmétiques caractérisées en ce qu'elles CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic compositions characterized in that they 3. Compositions cosmétiques selon les revendications 1 et 2,3. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 and 2, caractérisées en ce que les acides gras polyinsaturés enS  characterized in that the polyunsaturated fatty acids enS peuvent être présents sous forme d'acides gras libres, ou may be present as free fatty acids, or estérifiés dans des triglycérides, des phospholipides ou des esterified in triglycerides, phospholipids or sphingolipides. sphingolipids. 4. Compositions cosmétiques selon les revendications 1 à 3,4. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 to 3, cactérisées en ce que l'on utilise comme source d'acides cactérées in that one uses as source of acids gras polyinsaturés en # 3 des huiles de poisson ou d'algues polyunsaturated fat in # 3 of fish or algae oils (macroalgues ou microalgues). (macroalgae or microalgae). 5. Compositions cosmétiques selon la revendication 1, 5. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, caractérisées en ce que les fractions insaponifiables characterized in that the unsaponifiable fractions sont extraites de matières grasses d'amandes douces, are extracted from sweet almond fat, d'avocat, de café, de pépins de framboise, de fénugrec, de avocado, coffee, raspberry seeds, fenugreek, germes de blé, de karité, de luzerne, de mayas, d'olive, wheat, shea, alfalfa, mayan, olive sprouts, d'onagre, de pépins de raisin, de soja, de voacanga. evening primrose, grape seed, soy, voacanga. 6. Compositions cosmétiques selon la revendication 1,6. Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, caractérisées en ce que la vitamine E est constituée par les characterized in that vitamin E consists of tocophérols α , B, ( ', pris individuellement ou en tocopherols α , B, (', taken individually or in association.  association. 7. Compositions cosmétiques selon les revendications 1 et 6, 7. Cosmetic compositions according to Claims 1 and 6, caractérisées en ce que la vitamine E est introduite sous characterized in that vitamin E is introduced under forme libre, à l'état pur ou en association avec des huiles, free form, in its pure state or in combination with oils, ou comme constituant d'huiles naturelles riches en vitamine or as a constituent of natural oils rich in vitamin E. E. 8. Compositions cosmétiques selon les revendications 1 et 6, 8. Cosmetic compositions according to claims 1 and 6, caractérisées en ce que la vitamine E est présente sous forme d'acétate.  characterized in that vitamin E is present in the form of acetate. 9. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une quelconque des 9. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of revendications 1 à 8, caractérisées en ce qu'elles sont Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they are destinées à la lutte contre les différentes formes de stress. intended to fight against the various forms of stress. 10. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une quelconque des10. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of revendications 1 à 8, caractérisées en ce qu'elles sont Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they are utilisées comme produits solaires ou après solaires. used as sunscreen or after sunscreen. 11. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une quelconque des11. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of revendications 1 a 10, caractérisées en ce que les principes claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the principles actifs selon l'invention sont contenus dans les membranes de active according to the invention are contained in the membranes of liposomes ou à l'intérieur de micro ou nanocapsules ou de liposomes or inside micro or nanocapsules or micro ou nanoparticules. micro or nanoparticles. 12. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une quelconque des12. Cosmetic compositions according to any one of revendications 1 à 11, caractérisées en ce qu'elles se claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they are présentent sous la forme de crèmes, de laits, d'huiles ou de are in the form of creams, milks, oils or gels.  gels.
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EP0581624A1 (en) * 1992-06-25 1994-02-02 Expanchimie S.A.R.L. Cosmetic or food composition containing a fraction of unsaponifiabler of hot oil and a vitamin-E
FR2698785A1 (en) * 1992-12-04 1994-06-10 Thorel Jean Noel Compsn. to stimulate melanogenesis contg. arachidonic acid or a deriv. - and a non-saponifiable vegetable fraction as a potentiator, for treating vitiligo and to tan skin and treat grey hair.
FR2700954A1 (en) * 1993-01-29 1994-08-05 Eve International Sa Cosmetic composition with a repairing and protective effect on dry and very dry hair
EP0624363A1 (en) * 1993-05-10 1994-11-17 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Lipid composition for cosmetic products containing unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides
EP0640581A1 (en) * 1993-08-25 1995-03-01 Biox Corporation Endermic nutrient material and cosmetic composition containing the same
EP0643960A1 (en) * 1993-09-21 1995-03-22 Laboratoire De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Use of an effective quantitiy of active substances for the treatment of mixed skin
WO1997046220A1 (en) * 1996-06-03 1997-12-11 Croda International Plc Vegetable oil compositions
WO2000012720A2 (en) * 1998-09-02 2000-03-09 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2001008653A1 (en) * 1999-07-30 2001-02-08 Unilever Plc Skin care composition
FR2798591A1 (en) * 1999-09-22 2001-03-23 Pharmascience Lab USE OF A VEGETABLE OIL PRODUCT TO INCREASE THE SYNTHESIS OF SKIN LIPIDS IN COSMETICS, PHARMACY OR DERMATOLOGY AND AS A FOOD ADDITIVE
US6340485B1 (en) 1996-06-03 2002-01-22 Croda International Plc Compositions and uses thereof
WO2002008401A2 (en) * 2000-07-24 2002-01-31 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
US6913916B1 (en) 1998-09-02 2005-07-05 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2006034826A1 (en) * 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Nestec S.A. Skin care beverage composition
FR2878744A1 (en) * 2004-12-06 2006-06-09 Alain Tournay Production of fenugreek oil, for use in e.g. cosmetology, comprises dehulling and crushing to isolate, and extracting by flaking, crushing, removal of solvent, purifying and neutralizing and washing
US7070970B2 (en) 1999-08-23 2006-07-04 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
US7375205B2 (en) 1998-09-02 2008-05-20 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2011018501A3 (en) * 2009-08-12 2011-10-20 Laboratoires Expanscience Composition including an unsaponifiable fraction
EP2752183A1 (en) * 2013-01-07 2014-07-09 Golüke, Timm Cosmetic product with biological natural material complex

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Cited By (33)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0581624A1 (en) * 1992-06-25 1994-02-02 Expanchimie S.A.R.L. Cosmetic or food composition containing a fraction of unsaponifiabler of hot oil and a vitamin-E
FR2698785A1 (en) * 1992-12-04 1994-06-10 Thorel Jean Noel Compsn. to stimulate melanogenesis contg. arachidonic acid or a deriv. - and a non-saponifiable vegetable fraction as a potentiator, for treating vitiligo and to tan skin and treat grey hair.
FR2700954A1 (en) * 1993-01-29 1994-08-05 Eve International Sa Cosmetic composition with a repairing and protective effect on dry and very dry hair
EP0624363A1 (en) * 1993-05-10 1994-11-17 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Lipid composition for cosmetic products containing unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides
WO1994026248A1 (en) * 1993-05-10 1994-11-24 Societe Des Produits Nestle S.A. Lipid composition for cosmetic products
EP0640581A1 (en) * 1993-08-25 1995-03-01 Biox Corporation Endermic nutrient material and cosmetic composition containing the same
US5741496A (en) * 1993-09-21 1998-04-21 Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Process for the treatment of skins having dry areas and greasy areas
EP0643960A1 (en) * 1993-09-21 1995-03-22 Laboratoire De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher Use of an effective quantitiy of active substances for the treatment of mixed skin
FR2710264A1 (en) * 1993-09-21 1995-03-31 Rocher Yves Biolog Vegetale Use for the treatment of combination skin of an effective amount of active substances.
US6340485B1 (en) 1996-06-03 2002-01-22 Croda International Plc Compositions and uses thereof
WO1997046220A1 (en) * 1996-06-03 1997-12-11 Croda International Plc Vegetable oil compositions
WO1997046219A1 (en) * 1996-06-03 1997-12-11 Croda International Plc Compositions and uses thereof
US7968692B2 (en) 1998-09-02 2011-06-28 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
US6913916B1 (en) 1998-09-02 2005-07-05 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2000012720A2 (en) * 1998-09-02 2000-03-09 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
US7375205B2 (en) 1998-09-02 2008-05-20 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2000012720A3 (en) * 1998-09-02 2000-09-08 Abbott Lab Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2001008653A1 (en) * 1999-07-30 2001-02-08 Unilever Plc Skin care composition
US6423325B1 (en) 1999-07-30 2002-07-23 Conopco, Inc. Skin care composition
US7070970B2 (en) 1999-08-23 2006-07-04 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
US8147883B1 (en) 1999-09-22 2012-04-03 Laboratoires Expanscience Use of a plant oil product as an agent for increasing the synthesis of skin lipids
WO2001021150A1 (en) * 1999-09-22 2001-03-29 Laboratoires Pharmascience Use of a vegetable oil product as agent for increasing skin lipid synthesis
FR2798591A1 (en) * 1999-09-22 2001-03-23 Pharmascience Lab USE OF A VEGETABLE OIL PRODUCT TO INCREASE THE SYNTHESIS OF SKIN LIPIDS IN COSMETICS, PHARMACY OR DERMATOLOGY AND AS A FOOD ADDITIVE
US8053003B2 (en) 1999-09-22 2011-11-08 Laboratoires Expanscience Use of a plant oil product as an agent for increasing the synthesis of skin lipids
WO2002008401A2 (en) * 2000-07-24 2002-01-31 Abbott Laboratories Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2002008401A3 (en) * 2000-07-24 2003-03-13 Abbott Lab Elongase genes and uses thereof
WO2006034826A1 (en) * 2004-09-27 2006-04-06 Nestec S.A. Skin care beverage composition
FR2878744A1 (en) * 2004-12-06 2006-06-09 Alain Tournay Production of fenugreek oil, for use in e.g. cosmetology, comprises dehulling and crushing to isolate, and extracting by flaking, crushing, removal of solvent, purifying and neutralizing and washing
WO2011018501A3 (en) * 2009-08-12 2011-10-20 Laboratoires Expanscience Composition including an unsaponifiable fraction
US9282759B2 (en) 2009-08-12 2016-03-15 Laboratoires Expanscience Composition including an unsaponifiable fraction
EP2752183A1 (en) * 2013-01-07 2014-07-09 Golüke, Timm Cosmetic product with biological natural material complex
WO2014106638A2 (en) 2013-01-07 2014-07-10 Golüke Timm Cosmetic having biological natural substance complex
WO2014106638A3 (en) * 2013-01-07 2014-11-06 Golüke Timm Cosmetic having biological natural substance complex

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