FR3108511A1 - Composition comprising a polyion complex and a fatty alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a polyion complex and a fatty alcohol The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more particularly a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising: at least one polyion complex comprising at least one ionic polymer chosen from the group consisting of polymers cationic, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof, and at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof ci, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof; and (b) at least one fatty alcohol; and (c) water. The composition according to the present invention can provide keratin fibers with improved textures in terms of softness, suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the tips. Figure: None

Description

Composition comprising a polyion complex and a fatty alcohol

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, which includes a polyion complex.

Technology background

A polyion complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

For example, document WO 2017/104221 discloses a composition which is useful for cosmetic treatments and comprises at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more than two pKa values.

Also, WO 2018/230673 discloses a composition which includes such a polyion complex particle and an oil which may further include an oil gelling agent. The oil gelling agent is used to accentuate the stability of the composition.

Disclosure of Invention

It has been discovered that when a composition including a polyion complex is used to cosmetically treat keratin fibers such as the hair, the textures of softness, suppleness, coating evenness and hydration of the tips of the treated keratin fibers need to be improved.

Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a composition including a polyion complex, which can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures in terms of softness, suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the ends all at the same time. .

The above object of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

(a) at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,

And

at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof;

And

(b) at least one fatty alcohol; And

(c) water.

The polyion complex(s) may comprise

(i) at least one cationic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof;

(ii) at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(iii) at least one cationic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(iv) at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(v) at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or salt(s) thereof,

(vi) at least one anionic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, or

(vii) at least one amphoteric polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more of two pKb values or a salt(s) thereof.

The cationic polymer can be selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the ionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of terephthalidene dicamphrus sulfonic acid and salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and their salts, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the crosslinker(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty alcohol can have an R-OH structure in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms.

The amount of (b) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3 to 9, preferably 3.5 to 8.5, and more preferably 4 to 8.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (d) at least one fatty substance other than (b) fatty alcohol, preferably at least one oil and/or at least one wax.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise (e) at least one texturizing agent, preferably chosen from hydrophilic nonionic polymeric thickeners, and more preferably chosen from hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners and non-hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners. hydrophilic ions.

The present invention further relates to a cosmetic method for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising

the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention; And

drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers.

The present invention further relates to a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

the application to keratin fibers such as hair, of the composition according to the present invention; And

drying the composition.

The present invention also relates to a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

(a) at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,

And

(b) at least one fatty alcohol.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes a polyion complex and which can provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures in terms of softness, suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the ends.

The expression “coating regularity” refers to the feeling to the touch according to which keratin fibers such as hair are regularly coated with a film formed by the composition according to the present invention.

The term “end hydration” refers to the touch sensation that the ends of keratin fibers such as hair are moisturized.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,

And

at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof;

And

(b) at least one fatty alcohol; And

(c) water.

It may be preferred that the (a) polyion complex be in the form of a particle.

The composition according to the present invention may also be able to provide keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures with regard to softness, suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the tips all at the same time. Even for dried keratin fibers, the composition can provide them with hydration of the ends.

It is preferable for the composition according to the present invention to be intended for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers such as the hair. The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition of the leave-in type or of the rinse-out type for keratin fibers such as hair.

The composition according to the present invention is, in particular, useful for taking care of keratin fibers such as hair.

Hereinafter, the composition and the like according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Polyion Complex]

The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one polyion complex. Two or more different types of (a) polyion complexes can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a) polyion complex or a combination of different types of (a) polyion complexes can be used.

It may be preferred that the (a) polyion complex be in the form of a particle. The size of the polyion complex particle can be 5 nm to 100 μm, preferably 100 nm to 50 μm, more preferably 200 nm to 40 μm, and even more preferably 500 nm to 30 μm. A particle size of less than 1 μm can be measured by a dynamic light scattering method, and a particle size of more than 1 μm can be measured by an optical microscope. This particle size can be based on a number average diameter.

The amount of polyion complex(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyion complex(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyion complex(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

It may be preferred that the positive charge of the (a) polyion complex be greater than the amount of negative charge of the (a) polyion complex so that the total or net charge of the (a) polyion complex is positive. In other words, it may be preferable for the (a) polyion complex to be positively charged overall.

The (a) polyion complex can be formed by at least one ionic polymer and at least one crosslinker. The ionic polymer has positive and/or negative charges. Also, the crosslinker can have positive or negative charge(s). In any case, it may be preferable that the amount of positive charge of the (a) polyion complex be greater than the amount of negative charge of the polyion complex. Thus, it may be preferable that the total or net charge of the (a) polyion complex formed by the ionic polymer(s) and the crosslinker(s), after compensating or counterbalancing the positive and negative charges provided by the ionic polymer(s) and the crosslinker(s), is positive, i.e. greater than zero, preferably 0.1 or greater, more preferably 0.3 or more, and still more preferably 0.5 or more, and preferably 10 or less, more preferably 5 or less, and still more preferably 3 or less.

The cation/anion ratio on the polyion complex(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 1.01 to 5 which can be determined by the cation/g equivalent ratio divided by equivalent anion/g, preferably 1.05 to 4, and more preferably 1.1 to 3, even more preferably 1.5 to 2.

The (a) polyion complex in the form of a particle may be present at the interface between a fatty phase comprising (b) fatty alcohol (and, if present, (d) fatty material such as oil) and (c) water. Thus, the (a) polyion complex can form, for example, an emulsion. For example, if (b) water constitutes a continuous phase and the fatty phases constitute dispersed phases, the (a) polyion complex can form an O/W emulsion which can be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

Alternatively, the (a) polyion complex can form a capsule having a depression. The fatty phase comprising (b) fatty alcohol (and, if present, (d) fat such as oil) may be present in the recess. In other words, the fatty phase can be incorporated into the capsule. The capsule wall may be composed of a continuous layer or film formed from the (a) polyion complex. Without wishing to make it a theory, it is believed that the (a) polyion complex can reorganize at the interface of the fatty phase and (c) water to spontaneously form a capsule having a depression to include the fatty phase. For example, a continuous phase consisting of (c) water and dispersed phases consisting of the fatty phases in the capsule can form an O/W emulsion which can also be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

The above would mean that the (a) polyion complex itself is amphiphilic and insoluble in fat such as oil, or water.

{Ionic Polymer and Crosslinker}

The (a) polyion complex includes at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof, and

at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof.

In a preferable embodiment, the (a) polyion complex comprises:

(i) at least one cationic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof;

(ii) at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(iii) at least one cationic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(iv) at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof,

(v) at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or salt(s) thereof,

(vi) at least one anionic polymer, at least one amphoteric polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, or

(vii) at least one amphoteric polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof and/or at least one non-polymeric base having two or more of two pKb values or a salt(s) thereof.

There is no limit to the types of cationic, anionic and amphoteric polymers. Two or more different types of cationic polymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers can be used. Two or more different types of anionic polymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of anionic polymer or a combination of different types of anionic polymers can be used. Two or more different types of amphoteric polymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of amphoteric polymer or a combination of different types of amphoteric polymers can be used.

In component (ii) above, the ratio of the amount, e.g. chemical equivalent, of cationic polymer(s)/anionic polymer(s) may be from 0.05 to 18, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5.0. In particular, it may be preferable that the number of cationic groups of the cationic polymer(s)/the number of anionic groups of the anionic polymer(s) is 0.05 to 18 , more preferably 0.1 to 10, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5.0.

In component (iii) above, the ratio of the amount, e.g. chemical equivalent, of cationic polymer(s)/amphoteric polymer(s) may be from 0.05 to 18, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5.0. In particular, it may be preferable that the number of cationic groups of the cationic polymer(s)/the number of cationic and anionic groups of the amphoteric polymer(s) is 0.05 to 18, more preferably 0.1 to 10, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5.0.

In component (vi) above, the ratio of the amount, e.g. chemical equivalent, of anionic polymer(s)/amphoteric polymer(s) may be from 0.05 to 18, preferably from 0.1 to 10, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5.0. In particular, it may be preferable that the number of cationic groups of the anionic polymer(s)/the number of cationic and anionic groups of the amphoteric polymer(s) is 0.05 to 18, more preferably 0.1 to 10, and even more preferably 0.5 to 5.0.

The amount of the ionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably of 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the ionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the ionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the crosslinker(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the crosslinker(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the crosslinker(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(cationic polymer)

The cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer may be 0.01 meq./g to 20 meq./g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq./g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq./g. g.

The molecular weight of the cationic polymer may be 1,000 or more, preferably 50,000 or more, more preferably 100,000 or more, and still more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular weight.

The cationic polymer may have at least one positively charged and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The expression “amino group” (primary) here means a –NH ₂ group.

The cationic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The cationic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of the cationic polymers are as follows.

(1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters and amides and comprising at least one unit chosen from units of the following formulas:

in which :

R ₁ and R ₂ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogens and alkyl groups comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl and ethyl groups;

R ₃ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and CH ₃ ;

the symbols A, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example, from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms carbon;

R ₄ , R ₅ , and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, the alkyl groups comprising from 1 with 6 carbon atoms; And

X is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, e.g. chloride and bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) can also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which can be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups (C ₁ to C ₄ ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Examples of family (1) copolymers include, but are not limited to:

copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide,

copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European patent application No. 0 080 976,

copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate,

vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized or non-quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, and

crosslinked methacryloyloxy alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) trialkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) ammonium salt polymers such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with a compound containing olefinic unsaturation, for example, methylenebisacrylamide.

(2) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups described, for example, in French Patent No. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have been reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576, such as as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts. The commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the names "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch.

(4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and dextran hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example the chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride) can also be used.

Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR® C13 S, JAGUAR® C15, JAGUAR® C17, and JAGUAR® C162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one entity selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings, and heterocyclics, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(6) Water-soluble polyamino amides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyamino amides optionally being crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; biunsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyldiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides and diunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyamino amide; these polyamino amides being optionally alkylated or, if they comprise at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, for example, adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon, such as methyl, ethyl, and propyl groups, and the alkylene group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives can be chosen from adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

(8) Polymers obtained by the reaction of polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid can range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyamino amide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of the polyamino amide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

(9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl-ammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as the main constituent of the chain, at least one unit chosen from the units of formulas (Ia) and (Ib):

(ia)

(Ib)

in which :

k and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

R ₁₂ is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;

R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises, for example, from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and amido (C ₁ to C ₄ ) lower alkyl groups, or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ can form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; And

Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

In one embodiment, R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Examples of such polymers include, without limitation, a (co)poly(diallyldialkyl ammonium chloride) such as the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by the company CALGON (and its counterparts low weight average molecular weight) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name “MERQUAT® 550”.

Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (II):

(II)

in which :

R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ , which may be the same or different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or alternatively R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ can form, together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl groups substituted by at least one group chosen from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-OR ₁₇ -E groups, and -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -E groups, R ₁₇ being an alkylene group and E being a quaternary ammonium group;

A ₁ and B ₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the chain main, at least one entity chosen from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulphoxide groups, sulphone groups, disulphide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido, amide groups, and ester groups, and

X ^- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

A ₁ , R ₁₃ , and R ₁₅ can form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

if A ₁ is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, B ₁ can be chosen from:

-(CH ₂ ) _n --CO-E'-OC-(CH ₂ ) _n -

in which E' is chosen from:

a) glycol residues of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and groups of the following formulas:

-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -

-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-

in which x and y, which may be the same or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization ;

b) a secondary bis-diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

c) primary bis-diamine residues of the formula -NH-Y-NH-, wherein Y is selected from linear or branched hydrocarbon-based groups and the divalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ - CH ₂ -; And

d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

In at least one embodiment, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French Patent Nos. 2,320,330; 2,270,846; 2,316,271; 2,336,434; and 2,413,907 and U.S. Patent Nos. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945; and 4,027,020.

Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those comprising at least one repeating unit of formula (III):

(III)

in which

R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X ^- is an anion derived from inorganic or organic acid.

(11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):

(IV)

in which :

R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , and R ₂₁ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, β-hydroxyethyl groups, β-hydroxypropyl groups, -CH ₂ CH ₂ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH groups, in which p is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , and R ₂₁ are not simultaneously hydrogen ,

r and s, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

X ^- is an anion such as a halide, and

A is chosen from dihalide and -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - radicals.

Such compounds are described, for example, in European Patent Application No. 0 122 324.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, polyureylene quaternaries, and chitin derivatives.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homo-polymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT® 100, MERQUAT® 550, and MERQUAT® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a salt of 2 ,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium, and vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole quaternary polymers.

(13) Polyamines

As cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which can be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group can be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group can be present in a polymer backbone or pendant group, if present, of (co)polyamines.

Examples of (co)polyamines include chitosan, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylene methacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1-methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co) polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals, and their salts .

As (co)polyamines, it is preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is well known. The polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, the polylysine can be ε-poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine can be in the form of a salt and/or a solution.

(14) Cationic poly(amino acids)

As the cationic polymer, it may be possible to use cationic poly(amino acids), which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group can be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group can be present in a polymer backbone or pendant group, if present, of cationic poly(amino acids). The carboxyl group may be present in a pendent group, if present, of cationic poly(amino acids).

Examples of cationic poly(amino acids) include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxyprolyl steardimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and the like.

It may be preferred that the cationic polymer be selected from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkyl ammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, Cationic (co)poly(amino acids) such as cationized collagen, and their salts.

It may also be preferable for the cationic polymer to be chosen from cationic polysaccharides.

The charge density of the cationic polysaccharide can be selected from 0.01 meq./g to 20 meq./g, preferably from 0.05 to 15 meq./g, and more preferably from 0.1 to 10 meq. ./g.

The molecular weight of the cationic polysaccharide may be 1,000 or more, preferably 50,000 or more, more preferably 100,000 or more, and still more preferably 1,000,000 or more.

Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular weight.

The cationic polysaccharide can have at least one positively charged and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group. The expression “amino group” (primary) here means the –NH ₂ group. It is preferred that the (a) cationic polysaccharide has at least one quaternary ammonium group.

The cationic polysaccharide can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The cationic polysaccharide can be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polysaccharides.

It is preferable that the cationic polysaccharide be chosen from cationic cellulose polymers. Non-limiting examples of the cationic cellulose polymers are as follows.

(15) Cationic cellulose polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. It may be preferable that the cationic cellulose polymers are quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloses modified with at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. . The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternary ammonium group can preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. More preferably, the cationic cellulose polymer may comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C ₈ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon group. Examples of quaternized alkyl hydroxyethyl cellulose containing C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty chains which may be mentioned include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C ₁₂ alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C ₁₈ alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100, Softcat SX-1300X, Softcat SX-1300H, Softcat SL-5, Softcat SL-30, Softcat SL-60, Softcat SK-MH, Softcat SX-400X, Softcat SX-400H, SoftCat SK-L, Softcat SK-M, and Softcat SK-H, sold by The Dow Chemical Company, and Crodacel QM, Crodacel, QL (C ₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS products (C ₁₈ alkyl) sold by Croda.

It may be even more preferred that the cationic polymer be selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less. less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Anionic polymer)

An anionic polymer has a negative charge density. The charge density of the anionic polymer can be 0.1 meq./g to 20 meq./g, preferably 1 to 15 meq./g, and more preferably 4 to 10 meq./g if the anionic polymer is a synthetic anionic polymer, and the average degree of substitution of the anionic polymer may be 0.1 to 3.0, preferably 0.2 to 2.7, and more preferably 0.3 to 2 .5 if the anionic polymer is a natural anionic polymer.

The molecular weight of the anionic polymer may be 1,000 or more, preferably 10,000 or more, more preferably 50,000 or more, and still more preferably 100,000 or more.

The anionic polymer can have at least one negatively charged and/or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a sulfuric group, a sulfate group, a sulfonic group, a sulfonate group, a phosphoric group, a phosphate group, a phosphonic, a phosphonate group, a carboxylic group, and a carboxylate group.

The anionic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The anionic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic anionic polymers.

The anionic polymer can comprise at least one hydrophobic chain.

The anionic polymer, which may comprise at least one hydrophobic chain, may be obtained by copolymerization of a monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids comprising α,β-ethylenic unsaturation (a' monomer) and 2-acrylamido- 2 methylpropanesulphonic (a” monomer) with a non-surfactant monomer (b) comprising ethylenic unsaturation other than (a) and/or a monomer (c) comprising ethylenic unsaturation resulting from the reaction of an acrylic monomer comprising α unsaturation, β-monoethylenic or isocyanate monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic component or with a primary or secondary fatty amine.

Thus, the anionic polymer with at least one hydrophobic chain can be obtained by two synthetic routes:

- either by copolymerization of the monomers (a') and (c), or (a'), (b) and (c), or (a”) and (c), or (a”), (b) and ( vs),

- either by modification (and in particular esterification or amidation) of a copolymer formed from monomers (a') or monomers (a') and (b), or (a”) and (b), by an amphiphilic compound not monohydric ionic or a primary or secondary fatty amine.

Mention may in particular be made, as copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulphonic acid, of those disclosed in the article "Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2 methyl-propanesulfonate and nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering – Macromolecules, 2000, vol. 33, n° 10 – 3694 to 3704” and in applications EP A 0 750 899 and EP A 1 069 172.

The carboxylic acid comprising an α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation constituting the monomer (a') can be chosen from numerous acids and in particular from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid and maleic acid. It is preferably acrylic or methacrylic acid.

The copolymer can comprise a monomer (b) comprising monoethylenic unsaturation which has no surfactant property. Preferred monomers are those which yield water-insoluble polymers when homopolymerized. They can be chosen, for example, from C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate or the corresponding methacrylates. The more particularly preferred monomers are methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate. Other monomers which can be used are, for example, styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, acrylonitrile and vinylidene chloride. Non-reactive monomers are preferred, such monomers being those in which the single ethylenic group is the only group which is reactive under the polymerization conditions. However, monomers which include heat-reactive groups, such as hydroxyethyl acrylate, may optionally be used.

Monomer (c) is obtained by reacting an acrylic monomer comprising α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as (a), or an isocyanate monomer comprising monoethylenic unsaturation with a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound or a fatty amine primary or secondary.

Nonionic monohydric amphiphilic compounds or primary or secondary fatty amines used to produce the nonionic monomer (c) are well known. Monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds are generally alkoxylated hydrophobic compounds comprising an alkylene oxide forming the hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophobic compounds are usually composed of an aliphatic alcohol or an alkylphenol, in which compounds of a carbon chain comprising at least six carbon atoms constitute the hydrophobic part of the amphiphilic compound.

Preferred monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compounds have compounds corresponding to the following formula (V):

R-(OCH ₂ CHR') _m -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -OH (V)

in which R is chosen from alkyl or alkylene groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and alkylaryl groups having alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R' is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 atoms of carbon, n is an average number ranging from approximately 1 to 150 and m is an average number ranging from approximately 0 to 50, provided that n is at least as large as m.

Preferably, in the compounds of formula (V), the group R is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms and alkylphenyl groups in which the alkyl group is C ₈ to C ₁₃ ; the R' group is methyl; m = 0 and n = 1 to 25.

Preferred primary and secondary fatty amines are composed of one or two alkyl chains comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

The monomer used to form the nonionic urethane monomer (c) can be chosen from a wide variety of compounds. Use can be made of any compound comprising copolymerizable unsaturation, such as acrylic, methacrylic or allylic unsaturation. Monomer (c) can be obtained in particular from an isocyanate comprising monoethylenic unsaturation, such as, in particular, α,α-dimethyl-m-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

The monomer (c) can be chosen in particular from acrylates, methacrylates or itaconates of oxyethylenated C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty alcohol (1 to 50 EO), such as steareth-20 methacrylate, oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO ), oxyethylenated monocetyl itaconate (20 EO), oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate (20 EO) or the acrylate modified with _{polyoxyethylenated C 12-24 alcohols} (25 EO) and from dimethyl-m isopropenylbenzyl isocyanates d oxyethylenated C ₆ to C ₃₀ fatty alcohol (1 to 50 EO), such as, in particular, oxyethylenated behenyl alcohol dimethyl-m isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate.

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the anionic polymer is chosen from acrylic terpolymers obtained from (a) a carboxylic acid comprising an α-β-ethylenic unsaturation, (b) a non-surfactant monomer comprising an ethylenic unsaturation other than (a), and (c) a nonionic urethane monomer which is the reaction product of a monohydric nonionic amphiphilic compound with an isocyanate comprising monoethylenic unsaturation.

Mention may in particular be made, as anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophobic chain, of the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/alkyl acrylate terpolymer, as produced in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Acusol 823 by Rohm &Haas; the acrylate/methacrylate copolymer of steareth-20, such as the product sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm &Haas; the (meth)acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpolymer, such as the product in the form of an aqueous emulsion sold under the name Aculyn 28 by Rohm &Haas; acrylic acid/oxyethylenated monocetyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 3001 by National Starch; acrylic acid/oxyethylenated monostearyl itaconate copolymer (20 EO), such as the product in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion sold under the name Structure 2001 by National Starch; acrylates/acrylates modified with polyoxyethylenated C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ alcohol copolymer (25 EO), such as the 30 to 32% latex copolymer sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V SA; or the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer, such as the product as a 24% aqueous dispersion and comprising 40 ethylene oxide groups disclosed in EP A 0 173 109.

The anionic polymers can also be polyester-5, such as the product sold under the name Eastman AQ™ 55S Polymer by EASTMAN CHEMICAL corresponding to a chemical formula below.

A: dicarboxylic acid moiety

G: glycol moiety

SO ₃ ^- Na ⁺ : sodium sulfo group

OH: hydroxyl group

It may be preferred that the anionic polymer be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, and cellulose polymers (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose), (co)poly(amino acids ) anionic such as (co)poly(glutamic acids), (co)poly((meth)acrylic acids), (co)polyamic acids, (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfate ), dextran sulphate, chondroitin sulphate, (co)poly(maleic acids), (co)poly(fumaric acids), (co)polymers of maleic acid, and their salts.

The maleic acid copolymer can comprise one or more comonomers of maleic acid, and one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and styrene.

Thus, the expression “maleic acid copolymer” is understood to mean any polymer obtained by copolymerization of one or more comonomers of maleic acid and one or more comonomers chosen from vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, vinylpyrrolidone, olefins comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octadecene, ethylene, isobutylene, diisobutylene or isooctylene, and styrene, the maleic acid comonomers being optionally partially or completely hydrolyzed . Hydrophilic polymers will preferably be used, that is to say polymers having a solubility in water greater than or equal to 2 g/L.

In an advantageous aspect of the present invention, the maleic acid copolymer can have a molar fraction of maleic acid units between 0.1 and 1 and preferably between 0.4 and 0.9.

The mass average molar mass of the maleic acid copolymer can be between 1,000 and 500,000 and preferably between 1,000 and 50,000.

It is preferred that the maleic acid copolymer be a styrene/maleic acid copolymer, and more preferably a sodium styrene/maleic acid copolymer.

Preferably, a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid in a 50/50 ratio will be used.

It is possible to use, for example, the styrene/maleic acid copolymer (50/50), in the form of a 30% ammonium salt in water, sold under the reference SMA1000H® by Cray Valley or the styrene/maleic acid copolymer (50/50), in the form of a 40% sodium salt in water, sold under the reference SMA1000HNa® by Cray Valley.

The use of the styrene/maleic acid copolymer such as the sodium styrene/maleic acid copolymer can improve the wettability of a film prepared by the composition according to the present invention.

It may be preferred that the anionic polymer be selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides such as alginic acid, hyaluronic acid, and cellulose polymers, anionic (co)poly(amino acids) such as (co )poly(glutamic acids), (co)poly((meth)acrylic acids), (co)poly(amic acids), (co)polystyrene sulfonate, (co)poly(vinyl sulfates), polyvinyl sulfate dextran, chondroitin sulphate, (co)poly(maleic acids), poly(fumaric acids), (co)polymers of maleic acid, and their salts.

The amount of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably of 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the anionic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Amphoteric polymer)

An amphoteric polymer has both a positive charge density and a negative charge density.

The positive charge density of the amphoteric polymer may be 0.01 meq./g to 20 meq./g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq./g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq. ./g.

The negative charge density of the amphoteric polymer may be 0.01 meq./g to 20 meq./g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq./g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq. ./g.

The molecular weight of the amphoteric polymer may be 1,000 or more, preferably 2,000 or more, more preferably 3,000 or more, and still more preferably 10,000 or more.

Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means a number average molecular weight.

The amphoteric polymer can have

at least one positively chargeable and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, an imino group, and a pyridyl group, and

at least one negatively charged and/or negatively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of sulfuric group, sulfate group, sulfonic group, sulfonate group, phosphoric group, phosphate group, phosphonic group, phosphonate group , a carboxylic group, and a carboxylate group.

The amphoteric polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The term "copolymer" is understood to mean both copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers and those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers, such as terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.

The amphoteric polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from polymers containing K and M units randomly distributed in the chain of the polymer where K designates a unit which is derived from the monomer containing at least one atom of basic nitrogen and M denotes a unit which is derived from an acidic monomer containing one or more carboxylic or sulphonic groups or alternatively, K and M can denote groups which are derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulphobetaines. K and M can also designate a cationic polymer chain containing primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulphonic group linked through a hydrocarbon radical or in variant K and M are part of a chain of a polymer with an ethylene α,β-dicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been used to react with a polyamine containing one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

The amphoteric polymers corresponding to the definition given above which are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:

(1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group such as more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid , and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as more particularly a methacrylate and a dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, a dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in U.S. Patent No. 3,836,537. Mention may also be made of the sodium acrylate/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the name POLYQUART KE 3033 by HENKEL. The vinyl compound can also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as dimethyldiallylammonium chloride. The copolymers of acrylic acid and of this latter monomer are supplied under the names MERQUAT 280, MERQUAT 295, MERQUAT 2003 PR, MERQUAT 3330 PR, and MERQUAT PLUS 3330 by the company Lubrizol.

(2) Polymers containing units which are derivatives of:

a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by an alkyl radical,

b) at least one acid comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxyl groups, and

c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.

The most particularly preferred N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides according to the invention are groups whose alkyl radicals contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert- octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide as well as the corresponding methacrylamides.

The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric anhydrides or acids.

The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.

Particular use is made of the copolymers whose CTFA name ( ^4th ed. 1991) is octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

(3) Partially or completely alkylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides derived from polyaminoamides of the following general formula:

-[-CO-R ₄ -CO-Z-]-

in which R ₄ represents a divalent radical derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a radical which is derived from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z denotes a radical of a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine and preferably represents:

a) in the proportions of 60 to 100% by mole, the radical

-NH-[(CH ₂ )x-NH-] _p -

where x=2 and p=2 or 3, or alternatively x=3 and p=2, this radical being derived from diethylenetriamine, triethylenetetraamine or dipropylenetriamine;

b) in proportions of 0 to 40% by mole, the radical (IV) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the radical which is derived from piperazine:

c) in proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH-(CH ₂ ) ₆ -NH- radical which is derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyamino amines being crosslinked by addition of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyamino amide and alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or of an alkane sultone or their salts.

The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid, terephthalic, acids with an ethylene double bond such as for example acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.

The alkanesultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane or butanesultone, and the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.

(4) Polymers containing zwitterionic units of formula:

in which

R ₅ denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3, R ₆ and R ₇ represent a hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or propyl atom, R ₈ and R ₉ represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R ₈ and R ₉ does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the copolymer of butyl methacrylate/dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the company SANDOZ.

(5) Polymers derived from chitosan containing monomer units corresponding to the following formulas (VI), (VII), and (VIII):

the unit (VI) being present in proportions of 0 to 30%, the unit (VII) in proportions of 5 to 50% and the unit (VIII) in the proportions of 30 to 90%, knowing that in this unit ( VIII), R ₁₀ represents a radical of formula:

in which

if q = 0, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or several nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, or an alkylthio residue whose alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the radicals R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ being in this case a hydrogen atom;

or if q=1, R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

(6) Polymers derived from N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan sold under the name “EVALSAN” by the company JAN DEKKER.

(7) The polymers corresponding to the general formula (IX) such as those described for example in French patent 1,400,366:

in which R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom, a CH ₃ O, CH ₃ CH ₂ O or phenyl radical, R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen or a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl, R ₁₆ denotes a hydrogen or an alkyl radical lower alkyl such as methyl or ethyl, R ₁₇ denotes a lower alkyl radical such as methyl or ethyl or a radical corresponding to the formula: -R ₁₈ -N(R ₁₆ ) ₂ , R ₁₈ representing a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - , -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - or CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-, R ₁₆ having the meanings mentioned above,

as well as the higher homologs of these radicals and containing up to 6 carbon atoms.

(8) Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:

a) polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds containing at least one unit of formula:

-D-X-D-X-D- (X)

where D denotes a radical

and X denotes the symbol E or E', E or E', which are the same or different, denotes a divalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl groups and which may additionally contain oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine or alkylene amine groups, or of hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups , alcohol, ester and/or urethane.

b) The polymers of formula:

-D-X-D-X- (XI)

where D denotes a radical

and X denotes the symbol E or E' and, at least once, E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E' being a bivalent radical which is an alkylene radical with a straight or branched chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted by one or more radicals hydroxyl and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily containing one or more carboxyl functional groups or one or more hydroxyl functional groups and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.

(9) Alkyl (C ₁ to C ₅ ) vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semi-amidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N ,N-dialkanolamine. These copolymers can also contain other vinyl comonomers such as vinyl caprolactam.

The particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are those of family (1), in particular those containing a dialkyldiallyl ammonium salt as cationic monomer.

The amphoteric polymers can be chosen from polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-61 and mixtures thereof. Polyquaternium-39 and polyquaternium-53, for example the product Merquat 3330 PR and Merquat 2003 PR, sold by Lubrizol, are more preferable.

The amount of the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10 wt% or less, preferably 5 wt% or less, and more preferably 1 wt%. or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the amphoteric polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and in such a way more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preferable Embodiments)

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one cationic polymer, preferably at least two cationic polymers, and more preferably polyquaternium-67 and polyquaternium-6, and

at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof, as a crosslinker,

And

(b) at least one fatty alcohol; And

(c) water.

It is preferable for the cationic polymer to be chosen from cationic polysaccharides. It is more preferable that the cationic polymer is selected from cationic cellulose polymers. It is even more preferable that the cationic polymer is chosen from cationic cellulose polymers having at least one quaternary ammonium group comprising at least one fatty chain, as explained in (15) above for the section (Cationic polymer).

It may be preferable that the polyion complex does not include an anionic polymer.

(Nonpolymeric acid having two or more acid dissociation constants)

As a crosslinker for the ionic polymer, the composition according to the present invention may include at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salts thereof, i.e., at least one acid non-polymeric having two or more acid dissociation constants or a salt(s) thereof. The pKa (acid dissociation constant) value is well known to those skilled in the art, and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25°C.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof may be included in the (a) particle. Non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can work as a crosslinker for cationic polymer, anionic polymer and amphoteric polymers.

The term “non-polymeric” here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Consequently, the non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as a polycarboxylic acid.

It is preferable that the molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid has two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof is less than 1000, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably 700 or less.

There is no limit to the type of non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof. Two or more different types of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of nonpolymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts of it can be used.

The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by adding suitable base(s) to the nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained by reaction with the acid non-polymer having two or more pKa values with the base(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example salts with an alkali metal such as Na and K, and salts with an alkaline earth metal such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof may be an organic acid or a salt(s) thereof, and preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt(s) thereof.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may have at least two acid groups selected from the group consisting of carboxylic group, sulfuric group, sulfonic group, phosphoric group, phosphonic group, hydroxyl group phenolic, and a mixture thereof.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can be a non-polymeric polyvalent acid.

The nonpolymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, and diphosphoric acids, and a mixture thereof.

The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and their salts; terephthalidene dicamphre sulfonic acid or its salts (Mexoryl SX), benzophenone-9; phytic acid, and its salts; Red 2 (Amaranth), Red 102 (New Coccine), Yellow 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red 201 (Lithol Rubine B), Red 202 (Lithol Rubine BCA), Red 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red 208 (Lithol Red SR), Red 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red 220 (Deep Maroon), Red 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green 201 (Alizanine Cyanine Green F), Green 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green 205 (Light Green SF Yellowish), Blue 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue 205 (Alfazurine FG), Red 401 (Violamine R), Red 405 (Permanent Re F5R), Red 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red 503 (Ponceau R), Red 504 (Ponceau SX), Green 401 (Naphtol Green B), Green 402 (Guinea Green B), and Black 401 (Naphtol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and their salts; cysteine and its salts; EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and one of their mixtures.

It may be preferred that the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof be selected from the group consisting of terephthalidene dicamphrus sulfonic acid and its salts (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and their salts, and any of their mixtures.

The amount of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Non-polymeric base having two or more base dissociation constants)

As a crosslinker for the ionic polymer, the composition according to the present invention may include at least one non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, i.e. , at least one non-polymeric base having two or more base dissociation constants or a salt(s) thereof. The pKb value (base dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art, and should be determined at a constant temperature such as 25°C.

The non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof may be included in the (a) particle. The non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values can function as a crosslinker for the cationic polymer, anionic polymer and amphoteric polymers.

The term "non-polymeric" here means that the base is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Consequently, the non-polymeric base does not correspond to a base obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyallylamine.

It is preferable that the molecular weight of the nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof is 1000 or less, preferably 800 or less, and more preferably. preferred 700 or less.

There is no limit to the type of the non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or the salt(s) thereof. Two or more different kinds of non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of a nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of nonpolymeric bases having two or more pKb values or salts of this can be used.

The term "salt" herein means a salt formed by adding a suitable acid(s) to the nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values, which can be obtained by reaction with the non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values with the acid(s) according to methods known to those skilled in the art. As salt, mention may be made of ammonium salts, for example salts with an inorganic acid such as HCl and HNO ₃ , and salts with an organic acid such as carboxylic acids and sulphonic acids.

The nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof may be an organic base or a salt(s) thereof, and preferably a base hydrophilic or water-soluble organic material or a salt(s) thereof.

The nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values may have at least two basic groups selected from the group consisting of amino group, guanidine group, biguanide group, imidazole group, imino group, pyridyl group and one of their blends.

The nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values may be selected from the group consisting of nonpolymeric diamines such as ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, pentanediamine, hexanediamine, urea and their derivatives and guanidine and its derivatives, non-polymeric polyamines such as spermine and spermidine, basic amino acids, and one of their mixtures.

The nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof may be selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, histidine, cysteine, cystine , tyrosine, tryptophan, ornithine, and a mixture thereof.

It may be preferred that the nonpolymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof be selected from the group consisting of arginine, lysine, histidine, and one of their blends.

The amount of the non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.01 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5 wt% or less, and more preferably 1 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the non-polymeric base having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably 0.01% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[fatty alcohol]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (b) fatty alcohols can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (b) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of (b) fatty alcohol can be used.

The term "fat" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more of the fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The (b) fatty alcohol can have the R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Non-limiting examples of (b) fatty alcohols which may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecyleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohols can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

The amount of (b) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight. of composition.

The amount of (b) fatty alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

The (c) water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (c) water may be 50 wt% or more, preferably 60 wt% or more, and more preferably 70 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) water may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c) water may be 50% to 99% by weight, preferably 60% to 97% by weight, and more preferably 70% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Fat]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one fatty substance other than (b) fatty alcohol. Two or more different types of (d) fat can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (d) fat or a combination of different types of (d) fat can be used.

The expression "fat" here means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). The fat may contain, in its structure, a sequence of at least two siloxane groups or at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances can be soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The (d) fat can be in the form of a liquid or a solid. Here, “liquid” and “solid” mean that the fat is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) or solid, respectively, at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 10 ⁵ Pa).

The (d) fat can be in the form of a paste or a solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. As examples of (d) fat in the form of a solid, mention may be made, for example, of waxes.

The term “wax” here means that the fat is substantially in the form of a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and has a melting point generally of 35°C or more. As waxy fat, waxes generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combinations.

For example, the wax can be chosen from carnauba wax, beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyethylene waxes such as the wax sold under the name "Performalene 400 Polyethylene by the company New Phase Technologies, silicone waxes, for example polyalkyl (C ₂₄ to C ₂₈ )methyldimethylsiloxane, such as the product sold under the name “Abil Wax 9810” by the company Goldschmidt, shea butter, palm butter, C ₂₀ to C ₄₀ alkyl stearate sold under the name “Kester Wax K82H” by the company Kester Keunen, stearyl benzoate, lacquer wax, and mixtures thereof. For example, a wax chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated jojoba oil and polyethylene waxes can be used. In at least one embodiment, the wax is preferably selected from candelilla wax, beeswax, and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

Furthermore, the (d) fat can be in the form of a liquid or a paste, at room temperature and under atmospheric pressure. As examples of fat in the form of a liquid or a paste, mention may be made of an oil.

It is preferable that the (d) fat is chosen from oils.

Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Examples of vegetable oils include flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil , avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, apricot oil, coconut oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ to C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

C ₄ to C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters of C ₁ to C ₂₂ alcohols, and monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acid esters of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy C ₄ to C ₂₆ non-sugar can also be used.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, it is possible to use C ₆ to C ₃₀ sugar esters and diesters and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means compounds based on oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched C ₆ to C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ fatty acids. , saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or their mixtures such as, in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate and dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octanoate octyldodecyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate , isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, sebacate polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and tri( glyceryl caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, there can be mentioned linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2 ',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. An example is the decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 91, Jan. 76 , pages 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to the ASTM 445 Annex C standard.

It is also possible to use non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made especially of polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

- the ^Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 ranges or the ^Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by Rhodia;

- the oils of the 200 range by the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil ^® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal dimethylsilanol groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a silicone phenyl oil.

The phenyl silicone oil can be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ to C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C ₁ to C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals ₁₂ , and more preferably C ₁ to C ₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 oil, cosmetic grade fluid from Dow Corning;

- silicones from the PK range from Bayer, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from the SF range from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q, and n=0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

The organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower alkanes C ₆ to C ₁₆ linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and a decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

It may be preferable that the (d) fat is not chosen from silicone oils. In other words, it may be preferable for the composition according to the present invention not to include silicone oil.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5 % by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. , and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(oily phase)

(b) Fatty alcohol and, if present, (d) fat can form a fat phase.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10 % by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the fat(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight. , and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Texturizer]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one texture agent. Two or more different types of (e)texturizing agents can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (e) texturing agent or a combination of different types of (e) texturing agents can be used.

The expression “texturizing agent” here means any agent which can thicken the system or the composition.

The (e) texture agent can be chosen from hydrophilic thickeners.

It is preferable that the (e) texture agent is chosen from hydrophilic nonionic polymeric thickeners. The hydrophilic nonionic polymeric thickener here means a hydrophilic nonionic thickener based on at least one polymer.

It is more preferred that the (e) texturizing agent be selected from hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners and hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickeners.

{Hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickener}

Hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners here mean a nonionic thickener comprising at least one polymer with both at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit, such as at least one C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty chain, and is hydrophilic overall such that it can thicken an aqueous phase.

The hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners can, for example, be chosen from:

(i) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; examples that may be mentioned include:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, and in which the alkyl groups are, for example, C ₈ to C ₂₂ , such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C ₁ to C ₆ alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel, and

- Cellulose modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol;

(ii) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the Esaflor HM 22 product (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the Miracare XC95-3 products (C ₁₄ alkyl chain ) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie;

(iii) polyether-polyurethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl groups, for example the Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 products sold by the company Akzo or the Aculyn 44 products and Aculyn 46 sold by Rohm &Haas;

(iv) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers; examples that may be mentioned include:

- the Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 products (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., and

- the Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 products (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P.;

(v) copolymers of C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl acrylate or methacrylate and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the methyl methacrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208;

(vi) copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a copolymer of polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate.

It may be preferable for the hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickener to be chosen from polyether-polyurethanes. Polyether-polyurethanes can have both at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety. More particularly, they can contain, in their polymer chain, both hydrophilic sequences most often of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

Preferably, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, knowing that it is possible that the hydrocarbon chains are chains pendants or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more hanging chains are envisaged. In addition, polyether-polyurethanes can comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyether-polyurethanes can comprise polyblocks, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the polymer chain (eg: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the polymer chain (eg: polyblock copolymers). The same polymers can also be in the form of graft units or can be star-shaped.

Hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners can form a network in water in which the hydrophobic part links together to form quasi-micelles.

Accordingly, hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickeners may increase the viscosity or consistency of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, after applying the composition according to the present invention, it can recover the original elasticity of the composition quickly.

The nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.

Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic sequences are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain.

As an example of nonionic polyether-polyurethanes containing a hydrophobic chain which can be used in the present invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by the company RHEOX or otherwise Rheolates® 208 , 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®.

Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® containing a C ₁₂ to C ₁₄ alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212®, containing a C ₁₈ alkyl chain from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS containing a C ₂₀ alkyl chain and with a urethane bond, sold at 20% dry matter content in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of examples of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the DW 1206F and DW 1206J product supplied by ROHM & HAAS.

The polyether-polyurethanes described above which can be used can also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

As polyether-polyurethanes described above, mention may be made of polyether-polyurethanes comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic sequence and at least one of the hydrophobic sequences containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences, and aromatic sequences.

It may be preferable for the polyether-polyurethanes to comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, and in which the hydrocarbon-based chains are chosen from chains pendants and chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence.

According to a specific form of the present invention, use will be made of a polyurethane/polyether which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene, (ii) a polyoxyethylene stearyl alcohol comprising 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane/polyethers are sold in particular by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a mass average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-100/HDI Copolymer).

According to another specific form of the present invention, use will be made of a polyurethane/polyether which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of oxide of ethylene, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane/polyethers are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

Aculyn 46® having the INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl alcohol/SMDI Copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl alcohol/SMDI Copolymer).

Aculyn 44® (PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150/Decyl alcohol/SMDI Copolymer).

As the polyether polyurethanes, it may be preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):

R ¹ -{(OR ² ) _k -OCONH-R ³ [-NHCOO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ ] _h } _{m (} 1)

wherein R ¹ represents a hydrocarbon group, R ² and R ⁴ independently represent alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be the same or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R ³ represents a hydrocarbon group, which may optionally have a urethane bond, R ⁵ represents a straight or secondary chain hydrocarbon group, m represents a number of at least 2, h represents a number of at least 1, k represents a number in the range of 1 to 500, and n represents a number in the range of 1 to 200.

The hydrophobically modified polyurethane which is represented by the general formula (1) shown above is obtained, for example, by reacting at least one polyether polyol which is represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH ] _m , at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 , and at least one polymonoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ .

In such cases, R ¹ to R ⁵ in the general formula (1) are determined by the compounds R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m , R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 and HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ . The loading ratios among the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is selected from the NCO/OH range between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1.

The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m and which can be preferably used to obtain the polyether polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) can be obtained by polymerization of adding an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide , and the like.

The polyols should preferably be di- to octa-hydric polyols. Examples of di- to octa-hydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, and neopenthyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2 ,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol , 2,4-dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, pentamethylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane, and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol, and 1,3,4, 5-hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol, and xylitol; hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, and iditol; and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose.

Also, R ² is determined by the alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like, which is subjected to the addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide is preferable.

The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like to be subjected to addition may be subjected to single polymerization, or random polymerization, or block polymerization of at least two members. The addition procedure can be a conventional procedure. Also, the degree of polymerization k may be selected from the range of 0 to 1000, preferably from the range of 1 to 500, and more preferably from the range of 10 to 200. Further, the ratio of the ethylene group occupying R ² should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R ² . In such cases, the hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickener suitable for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.

In addition, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m should preferably be selected from the range of 500 to 100,000, and should more preferably be chosen from the range of 1,000 to 50,000.

The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 and which can be preferably used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not particularly limited insofar as the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of the polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate, and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.

Also, it is possible to employ dimers and trimers (isocyanurate bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.

In addition, it is possible to employ a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by a reaction of the aforementioned polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As the polyol, di- to octa-hydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _n+1 , it is preferable to employ the aforementioned polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.

The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ and which can be preferably used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed in accordance with the present invention is not particularly limited so long as the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight-chain, branched-chain, or secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the monohydric straight chain, branched chain, or secondary alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide, or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, and the like.

The compound represented by the general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing the reaction to proceed in the same manner as an ordinary reaction. of a polyether and an isocyanate.

As the compound represented by the general formula (1), a copolymer of polyethylene glycol-240/decyltetradeceth-20/hexamethylene diisocyanate is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240/decyltetradeceth-20/hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also referred to as bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240/HDI copolymer.

According to the present invention, it is preferable for the hydrophilic nonionic polymeric associative thickener to be chosen from Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether of PEG-240/HDI copolymer sold by Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.

{Hydrophilic Nonionic Polysaccharide Thickeners}

The hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener here means a hydrophilic nonionic thickener based on at least one polysaccharide, preferably as the backbone of the thickener.

The hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener can be chosen from those described, for example, in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, third edition, 1982, volume 3, pages 896 to 900, and volume 15, pages 439 to 458 , in "Polymers in Nature" by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328,1980, and in "Industrial Gums--Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", edited by Roy L. Whistler , second edition, published by Academic Press Inc., the contents of these three publications being incorporated by reference in their entirety.

Specifically, the hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener can be selected, for example, from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for example wheat, corn, or rice, vegetables, for example yellow pea, and tubers, for example potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars-agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, ghattis, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans, such as guar gums, and their nonionic derivatives (eg, hydroxypropyl guar) and xanthan gums, and mixtures thereof.

As the hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener, for example, starches, guar gums, inulin, and celluloses and their derivatives can preferably be used.

Among the starches which can be used, mention can be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elementary fractions which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these fractions and their assembly makes it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, may vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

The botanical origin of the starch molecules used can be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch , wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

Starches are usually in the form of a white powder that is insoluble in cold water and has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

The starches may optionally be C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkylated or C ₁ -C ₆ acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, for example the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by Avebe, or National Starch's ZEA structure (hydroxypropylated corn distarch phosphate), can also be used.

Guar gums can be modified or unmodified.

Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meyro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.

Modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reaction of corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of molecules of alkylene oxide consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120, and Jaguar HP-120 by the company Solvay.

Among the celluloses that are used are, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose. Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Ashland.

Alternatively, as the hydrophilic nonionic polysaccharide thickener, polysaccharides derived from microorganisms can also preferably be used.

Polysaccharide derived from microorganisms means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria.

The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not a polysaccharide derived from plants. Thus, it may be preferable that the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms is not based on cellulose.

As examples of the polysaccharide derived from microorganisms, mention may be made of cardollan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

It may be preferred that the polysaccharide derived from the microorganisms is selected from the group consisting of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.

It may be even more preferred that the (e)texturizing agent is selected from the group consisting of agar-agar, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, sclerotium gum and bis-decyltetradeceth-20 PEG-240/HDI copolymer ether.

The amount of (e) the texturizing agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) texturizing agent in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (e) the texturizing agent in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[Cosmetic active ingredient]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one (additional) cosmetic active ingredient. There is no limitation to the additional cosmetic active ingredient as long as it is different from (a) polyion complex and (b) fatty alcohol, as well as, if present, from (d) material fat and (e) the texturizing agent. Two or more additional cosmetic active ingredients can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of additional cosmetic active ingredient or a combination of different types of additional cosmetic active ingredients can be used.

Among the additional cosmetic active ingredients to be used, mention may be made of hydrophobic or water-insoluble UV filters, antioxidants, cleansing agents, free radical scavengers, moisturizers, bleaching agents, liporegulators, anti-acne agents, anti-dandruff agents , anti-aging agents, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, keratolitic agents, fresheners, antibacterial agents, antifungal agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, anesthetics, nutritive agents, and sebum absorbents or moisture absorbents.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[pH]

The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3 to 9, preferably 3.5 to 8.5, and more preferably 4 to 8.

At a pH of 3 to 9, the (a) polyion complex can be very stable.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one acid, other than the crosslinker, to be incorporated into the (a) polyion complex. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

(Alkaline agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents can be used.

The alkaline agent can be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferred that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkali metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

As examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides, mention may be made of sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. As examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides, mention may be made of calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As an inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.

The alkaline agent can be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferred that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives; diamines and their derivatives; polyamines and their derivatives; basic amino acids and their derivatives; basic amino acid oligomers and their derivatives; polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives; urea and its derivatives; and guanidine and its derivatives.

As examples of organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

in which R denotes an alkylene such as a propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl radical, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferred.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

(Acid)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid other than the crosslinker to be incorporated into the (a) particle. Two or more acids can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids can be used.

As an acid, mention may be made of any inorganic or organic acid, preferably inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products. A monovalent acid and/or a polyvalent acid can be used. A monovalent acid such as citric acid, lactic acid, sulfuric acid, phosphoric acid and hydrochloric acid (HCl) can be used. Lactic acid may be preferable.

The acid(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

(Buffer Agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents can be used.

As the buffering agent, mention may be made of an acetate buffer (for example, acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer ( for example, citric acid + sodium citrate), borate buffer (for example, boric acid + sodium borate), tartrate buffer (for example, tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris (eg, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), Hepes (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid) buffer.

[Optional Additives]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, components typically used in cosmetics, for example, surfactants or emulsifiers, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, non-volatile organic solvents, extracts natural plant derivatives, and the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any pigment or dye.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional additive(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 30% by weight. , and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

However, the composition according to the present invention can include a very limited quantity of surfactant(s) or emulsifier(s). The amount of the surfactant(s) or emulsifier(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any surfactant or emulsifier.

[Composition]

Since the composition according to the present invention comprises (c) water, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase may comprise at least one C ₂ to C ₆ monohydric alcohol. Two or more monohydric C ₂ -C ₆ alcohols can be used in combination.

The C ₂ to C ₆ monohydric alcohol suitable for the present invention may comprise from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol. .

Ethanol and isopropanol, and preferably ethanol, are particularly suitable for the present invention.

The amount of the C ₂ -C ₆ monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight. or less, based on the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, the amount of the C ₂ -C ₆ monohydric alcohol in the composition according to the present invention is 5% by weight or more, preferably 6% by weight or more, and more preferably 7% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the amount of the C ₂ -C ₆ monohydric alcohol may be 5% to 20% by weight, preferably 6% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 7% to 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase can comprise polyhydric alcohols containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of polyhydric alcohol(s) such as glycols, if present, in the aqueous phase according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

As the composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty alcohol and, if it is present, (d) at least one fatty substance, the composition according to the present invention can comprise at least one fatty phase.

If the (d) fat comprises oil, the composition according to the present invention can easily be in the form of an emulsion, an O/W emulsion or a W/O emulsion. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, since it can provide a cool feeling due to (c) the water which forms its external phase.

It may be more preferable that the amount of the surfactant(s) or emulsifier(s) in the emulsion, particularly an O/W emulsion, be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, since the surfactant(s) may adversely affect water resistance. It is particularly preferred that the emulsion, in particular an O/W emulsion, does not include a surfactant or emulsifier.

The composition according to the present invention may be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended for application to keratin fibres. Keratin fibers herein means fibers containing keratin as the main building block, and examples thereof include hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and the like. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process for keratin fibres, and more preferably the hair.

The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a leave-in or rinse-out cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair. The "without rinsing" here means that the composition according to the present invention is not removed from the keratin fibers after being applied to the keratin fibers. The "rinse off" here means that the composition according to the present invention is removed, by rinsing, from the keratin fibers after having been applied to the keratin fibers. Water can be used for rinsing. Even after rinsing, the composition according to the present invention can remain to form a film or a coating on the keratin fibers such as the hair.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with any of the methods which are well known to those skilled in the art.

[Process and use]

The present invention also relates to

a cosmetic process for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to the present invention; And

the drying of the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibres,

And

a process for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

the application to keratin fibers such as the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; And

drying the composition.

In addition, the present invention also relates to a film, preferably a cosmetic film, comprising:

(a) at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,

And

at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and a mixture thereof; And

(b) at least one fatty alcohol.

The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on keratin fibers such as hair.

The cosmetic method here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and/or styling keratin fibers such as hair.

The above film, preferably the cosmetic film, is water resistant with a pH of 7 or less, and can be removed with water with a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more.

In other words, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be water resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as pH 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more. and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The upper pH limit is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

Accordingly, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be water-resistant, and therefore it can remain on keratin fibers such as hair even if the surface of keratin fibers is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. Further, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, can be easily removed from keratin fibers such as hair under alkaline conditions. As a result, the above film, preferably the cosmetic film, is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with, for example, soap which can give alkaline conditions.

In addition, the above film can have cosmetic effects such as absorbing or adsorbing bad odors, changing the appearance of keratin fibers such as hair, changing the touch feeling of fibers of keratin, and/or the protection of the keratin fibers against, for example, dirt or pollutants, due to the properties of the polyion complex in the film, even if the film does not include any cosmetic active ingredient .

If the above film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (b) fatty alcohol and, if present, (d) fat, the film may have cosmetic effects conferred by ) additional cosmetic active ingredient(s).

The present invention may also relate to a use of (b) at least one fatty alcohol in a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising:

1. at least one polyion complex comprising

at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,

And

at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof;

And

(c) water.

so that the composition provides the keratin fibers such as hair with improved textures in terms of softness, suppleness, evenness of coating and hydration of the ends. The composition may further comprise (d) at least one fat other than (b) the fatty alcohol.

The explanations concerning the ingredients (a) to (d) in the composition according to the present invention can be applied to that in the use according to the present invention.

Examples

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Example 1 and example are comparison fs 1 to 2

[Preparation]

Compositions were prepared according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-2 as shown below.

(Example 1)

0.75g of hydroxypropyl guar was dissolved in approximately 92g of water to obtain a mixture of hydroxypropyl guar and water. The mixture was heated with a water bath at 70˚C. Then, 0.259 g of polyquaternium-67 was added to the mixture and dispersed completely. The heating of the mixture of hydroxypropyl guar, polyquaternium-67 and water with the water bath was then stopped, and the water bath was removed. Then, 0.616 g of a 40% by weight polyquaternium-6 aqueous solution was added to the mixture. Further, 0.035 g of sodium hydroxide and 0.21 g of a 50% by weight aqueous phytic acid solution were added to the mixture. Then, the mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer to obtain a composition including a polyion complex.

Further, 0.30 g of caprylyl glycol was added to the above mixture. Then, the mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer.

Then, a premix was heated to 80°C, which had been composed of 2.00 g of cetearyl alcohol, 1.00 g of sunflower oil and 2.00 g of isopropyl myristate and it was added to the mixture obtained by the above steps and homogenized with a homogenizer at a high mixing speed. Also, 0.50g of phenoxyethanol was then added to the mixture and homogenized with a high-speed mixing homogenizer.

Then, the pH of the mixture thus obtained was adjusted to about 7.5 by adding NaOH or lactic acid, followed by homogenization with a homogenizer.

A uniform composition was obtained in the form of a milk.

(Comparative example 1)

0.75 g of hydroxypropyl guar was dissolved in approximately 92 g of water to obtain a mixture of hydroxypropyl guar and water. The mixture was heated with a water bath at 70˚C. Then, 0.259 g of polyquaternium-67 was added to the mixture and dispersed completely. The heating of the mixture of hydroxypropyl guar, polyquaternium-67 and water with the water bath was then stopped, and the water bath was removed. Then, 0.616 g of a 40% by weight polyquaternium-6 aqueous solution was added to the mixture. Further, 0.30 g of caprylyl glycol was added to the above mixture. Then, the mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer.

Next, a premix, which had been composed of 2.00 g of cetearyl alcohol, 1.00 g of sunflower oil, and 2.00 g of isopropyl myristate, was heated to 80°C, and it was then added to the mixture obtained by the above steps and homogenized with a high mixing speed homogenizer. Also, 0.50 g of phenoxyethanol was then added to the mixture and homogenized with a high-speed mixing homogenizer.

Then, the pH of the mixture thus obtained was adjusted to about 7.5 by adding an aqueous solution of lactic acid at 90% by weight, followed by homogenization with a homogenizer.

A uniform composition was obtained in the form of a milk.

(Comparative example 2)

0.75 g of hydroxypropyl guar was dissolved in approximately 92 g of water to obtain a mixture of hydroxypropyl guar and water. The mixture was heated with a water bath at 70˚C. Then, 0.259 g of polyquaternium-67 was added to the mixture and dispersed completely. The heating of the mixture of hydroxypropyl guar, polyquaternium-67 and water with the water bath was then stopped, and the water bath was removed. Then, 0.616 g of a 40% by weight polyquaternium-6 aqueous solution was added to the mixture. Further, 0.035 g of sodium hydroxide and 0.21 g of a 50% by weight aqueous phytic acid solution were added to the mixture. Then, the mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer to obtain a composition including a polyion complex. Further, 0.30 g of caprylyl glycol was added to the above mixture. Then, the mixture was homogenized with a homogenizer.

Then, a premix, which had been composed of 2.00 g of sunflower oil, 1.00 g of shea butter, and 2.00 g of isopropyl myristate, was heated to 80° C. and added to the mixture obtained by the above steps and homogenized with a high-speed mixing homogenizer. Also, 0.50 g of phenoxyethanol was then added to the mixture and homogenized with a high-speed mixing homogenizer.

Then, the pH of the mixture thus obtained was brought to about 7.5 by adding NaOH, followed by homogenization with a homogenizer.

A uniform composition was obtained in the form of a milk.

The formulation of the composition according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 is shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. raw.

Example 1 Comp.
Example 1 Comp.
Example 2 Polyquaternium-67 0.259 0.259 0.259 40% by weight polyquaternium-6 aqueous solution 0.616 0.616 0.616 Sodium hydroxide 0.035 - 0.035 Aqueous solution of phytic acid at 50% by weight 0.21 - 0.21 Cetearyl alcohol 2.00 2.00 - Sunflower oil 1.00 1.00 2.00 Shea Butter - - 1.00 Isopropyl myristate 2.00 2.00 2.00 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.75 0.75 0.75 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 0.50 0.50 Caprylyl glycol 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 7.5 - qs pH 7.5 Lactic acid - qs pH 7.5 - Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 pH 7.5 7.5 7.5 Fat phase (% by weight) 5 5 5 Without rinsing Softness of dry hair Good Poor Poor Softness of dry hair Very good Very good Good Coating regularity Very good Very good Poor Ends hydration Very good Very good Poor With rinsing Softness of dry hair Good Poor Good Softness of dry hair Very good Very good Good Coating regularity Very good Good Good Ends hydration Very good Good Poor

[Ratings]

{Without rinsing}

Using a lock of hair, the textures of softness and suppleness of the dried hair, of regularity of coating and of hydration of the tips, after the application of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and the comparative examples 1 to 2 on the lock of hair followed by drying, were estimated by 6 members of the jury in accordance with the following criteria. Standard means a lock of hair to which the composition has not been applied.

Very good: 4 to 6 members of the jury considered her better than the stallion

Good: 2 or 3 members of the jury considered her better than the stallion

Poor: 0 or 1 member of the jury considered her better than the stallion

The results are shown in Table 1.

The composition according to Example 1 was able to provide the hair with a better texture in terms of both softness and suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the ends than the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 2 .

{To rinse}

Using a lock of hair, the textures of softness and suppleness of the dried hair, of regularity of coating and hydration of the tips, after the application of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 and the Comparative Examples 1 to 2 on the lock of hair followed by rinsing and drying, were estimated by 6 members of the jury in accordance with the following criteria. Standard means a lock of hair to which the composition has not been applied.

Very good: 4 to 6 members of the jury considered her better than the stallion

Good: 2 or 3 members of the jury considered her better than the stallion

Poor: 0 or 1 member of the jury considered her better than the stallion

The results are shown in Table 1.

The composition according to Example 1 was able to provide the hair with a better texture in terms of both softness and suppleness, regularity of coating and hydration of the ends than the composition according to Comparative Examples 1 to 2 .

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising:
(a) at least one polyion complex comprising
at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,
And
at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and mixtures thereof;
And
(b) at least one fatty alcohol; And
(c) water. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof. A composition according to any of claims 1 or 2, wherein the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt(s) thereof is selected from the group consisting of terephthalidene dicamphrus sulfonic acid and salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), Yellow 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), ascorbic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and their salts, and a mixture of these. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (b) fatty alcohol has an R-OH structure in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the amount of (c) water in the composition is from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 60% to 97% by weight, and so more from 70% to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the pH of the composition is 3 to 9, preferably 3.5 to 8.5, and more preferably 4 to 8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the composition additionally comprises (d) at least one fatty substance other than (b) the fatty alcohol, preferably at least one oil and/or at least one wax . A cosmetic process for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising
the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7; And
drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers. A method of preparing a film, comprising:
the application to keratin fibers of the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7; And
drying the composition. Film, preferably cosmetic film, comprising:
(a) at least one polyion complex comprising
at least one ionic polymer selected from the group consisting of cationic polymers, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, and mixtures thereof,
And
at least one crosslinker selected from the group consisting of non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salt(s) thereof, non-polymeric bases having two or more pKb values or a salt(s) thereof, and a mixture thereof; And

1. at least one fatty alcohol.