FR3131847A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, (a-3) water, (b-1) at least one oil, and (b-2) at least one fatty acid. The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it comprises a relatively large amount of oil, such as up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROPHOBIZED CATIONIC POLYMER

The present invention relates to a composition including a hydrophobized cationic polymer, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition.

context of art

A polyion complex, which is formed with an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer, is already known.

For example, document WO 2021/125069 discloses a composition useful for cosmetic treatments and comprising at least one polyionic complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer and at least one non-polymeric acid having two pKa values or more. Document WO 2021/125069 also discloses that the composition disclosed therein may include oil and may be in the form of an emulsion.

disclosure of the invention

However, the composition disclosed in document WO 2021/125069 was found to be stable only when it includes a very limited amount of oil, such as 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the composition disclosed in this document includes a relatively large amount of oil, it tends to be unstable.

Thus, an objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which comprises a cationic polymer and which is stable even when it comprises a relatively large quantity of oil.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition comprising:

(a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-3) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; And

(b-2) at least one fatty acid.

The (a-1) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-2) fatty acid.

The (a-1) cationic polymer may be chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as a (co)poly(diallyldialkylammonium chloride), (co)polyamines such as (co) )polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers and their salts.

The quantity of (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably lactic acid.

The quantity of (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or one of its salts in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a-3) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b-1) oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.

The quantity of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b-2) fatty acid may be chosen from C ₄ -C ₂₂ , preferably C ₆ -C ₂₀ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids.

The quantity of (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise an (a) aqueous phase comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and the (a-3) water .

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b) fatty phases comprising (b-1) the oil, and (b-2) the fatty acid.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising:

the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to the present invention; And

drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance.

The present invention also relates to a use of (b-2) at least one fatty acid in a composition, comprising:

(a-1) at least one cationic polymer,

(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof,

(a-3) water, and

(b-1) at least one oil

to increase the amount of oil (b-1) in the composition to be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Figure 1 shows schematic drawings showing the behaviors of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase, and the examples of hydrophobization of the (a-1) cationic polymer, in one embodiment of the present invention.

There shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase, in the case where the (b ) fatty phase does not include (b-2) fatty acid.

There shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase, in the case where the (b ) fatty phase includes a (b-2) fatty acid.

There shows a schematic drawing showing the example of hydrophobization mechanism of (a-1) cationic polymer by (b-2) fatty acid.

There shows photomicrographs of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1.

After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which includes a cationic polymer and which is stable even when it includes a relatively large quantity of oil. Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-3) water;

(b-1) at least one oil; And

(b-2) at least one fatty acid.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise an (a) aqueous phase comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and the (a-3) water .

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (b) fatty phases comprising (b-1) the oil, and (b-2) the fatty acid.

The (b) fatty phases can be dispersed in the (a) aqueous phase.

The (a-1) cationic polymer can be hydrophobized by the (b-2) fatty acid. Thus, the (b) fatty phases can be stably dispersed in the (a) aqueous phase.

The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it comprises a relatively large quantity of oil, for example up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Thus, the composition according to the present invention may comprise a relatively large quantity of oil, such as up to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long time. In other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be avoided for a long time.

Accordingly, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long time.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Composition]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise:

(a) an aqueous phase; And

(b) fatty phases,

in which

the (b) fatty phases can be dispersed in the (a) aqueous phase.

Thus, the (a) water phase can function as a continuous phase, while the (b) fatty phases can function as discontinuous phases. The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W dispersion such as an O/W emulsion. The composition according to the present invention can be of the O/W type, it can provide a feeling of freshness thanks to the aqueous phase including the water which constitutes the external phase.

The (a) aqueous phase may comprise (a-1) at least one cationic polymer, (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, and (a-3) water.

The amount of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 55% by weight or more, e.g. relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 95% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 90% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Consequently, the quantity of the (a) aqueous phase in the composition according to the present invention can be between 45% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 55%. and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) fatty phases may comprise (b-1) at least one oil, and (b-2) at least one fatty acid.

The amount of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 55% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to at 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Consequently, the quantity of (b) fatty phases in the composition according to the present invention can be between 5% and 55% by weight, preferably between 15% and 50% by weight, and more preferably between 25% and 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Cationic polymer)

The composition according to the present invention includes (a-1) at least one cationic polymer. Only one type of cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination.

A cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the cationic polymer may be between 0.01 meq/g and 20 meq/g, preferably between 0.05 meq/g and 15 meq/g, and more preferably between 0.1 meq/g. and 10 meq/g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the cationic polymer is 1000 or more, preferably 2000 or more, more preferably 3000 or more, and even more preferably 4000 or more.

Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, “molecular weight” means number average molecular weight.

The cationic polymer may have at least one positively chargeable and/or positively charged moiety selected from the group consisting of a primary, secondary or tertiary amino group, a quaternary ammonium group, a guanidine group, a biguanide group, an imidazole group, a imino and a pyridyl group. The term “amino group” (primary) here means a group of -NH ₂ .

The cationic polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. By the term “copolymer”, we mean both copolymers obtained from two types of monomers and those obtained from more than two types of monomers, such as terpolymers which for their part are obtained from three types of monomers. monomers.

The cationic polymer can be chosen from natural and synthetic cationic polymers, and preferably natural cationic polymers. Non-limiting examples of cationic polymers are as follows.

(1) Homopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters and amides and comprising at least one unit chosen from the units of the following formulas:

in which :

R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl and ethyl groups;

R ₃ , identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and CH ₃ groups;

the symbols A, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example from 2 to 3 carbon atoms and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R ₄ , R ₅ and R ₆ , identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms and benzyl groups, and in at least one embodiment, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon ; And

X ^- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as methosulfate anions and halides, for example chloride and bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also comprise at least one unit derived from comonomers which may be chosen from acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower C ₁ alkyl groups. -C ₄ , groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Examples of copolymers from family (1) include, but are not limited to:

copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,

the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in European patent application ^No. 0 080 976,

copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate,

quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/acrylate or methacrylate dialkylaminoalkyl copolymers, described for example in French patents Nos ^. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers,

vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers, and

crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy alkyl (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) tri alkyl (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) ammonium such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, for example methylenebisacrylamide.

(2) Cationic cellulose polymers such as derivatives of cellulose ethers containing quaternary ammonium groups are described, for example, in French patent no. 1,492,597, such as the polymers sold under the names “JR” (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammoniums that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

It is preferable that the cationic cellulose polymer has at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably a quaternary trialkylammonium group, and more preferably a quaternary trimethylammonium group.

The quaternary ammonium group may be present in a group containing a quaternary ammonium group which can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

(I)

in which

each of R ₁ and R ₂ represents a C _1-3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

R ₃ represents a C _1-24 alkyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group, and more preferably a methyl group,

X ^- represents an anion, preferably a halide, and more preferably a chloride,

n denotes an integer from 0 to 30, preferably from 0 to 10, and more preferably from 0, and

R ₄ represents a C _1-4 alkylene group, preferably an ethylene or propylene group.

The leftmost ether bond (-O-) in chemical formula (I) above can attach to the sugar ring of the polysaccharide.

It is preferable that the group containing the quaternary ammonium group is -O-CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₃ .

(3) Cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives are grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 4,131,576 , such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt chosen from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts.

Commercial products corresponding to these polymers include, for example, the products sold under the name “Celquat ^® L 200” and “Celquat ^® H 100” by the company National Starch.

(4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in U.S. Patent Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, cationic hyaluronic acid, and hydroxypropyl trimonium dextran chloride. Guar gums modified with a salt, for example 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) can also be used.

Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names JAGUAR ^® C13 S, JAGUAR ^® C15, JAGUAR ^® C17, and JAGUAR ^® C162 by the MEYHALL company.

(5) Polymers comprising piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups comprising straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by at least one entity chosen from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, aromatic rings and heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos. 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared, for example, by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an entity chosen from epihalohydrins; diepoxides; dianhydrides; unsaturated dianhydrides; bis-unsaturated derivatives; bishalohydrins; bisazetidiniums; bishaloacyidiamines; bisalkyl halides; oligomers resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with an entity chosen from bishalohydrins, bisazetidiniums, bishaloacyldiamines, bisalkyl halides, epihalohydrins, diepoxides and bisunsaturated derivatives; the crosslinking agent being used in an amount ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides being optionally alkylated or, if they contain at least one tertiary amine function, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patents Nos ^. 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents, e.g., adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl and propyl groups, and the alkylene group includes 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as an ethylene group. Such polymers are described, for example, in French patent No. 1,583,363. In at least one embodiment, these derivatives can be chosen from adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine polymers.

(8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms . The molar ratio of polyalkylene polyamine to dicarboxylic acid can range from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide ranging from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described, for example, in US Patent Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347.

(9) Alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallyl-ammonium cyclopolymers, such as homopolymers and copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, at least one unit chosen from the units of formulas (Ia) and (Ib):

(Ia)

(Ib)

in which :

k and t, identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1;

R ₁₂ is chosen from hydrogen and methyl groups;

R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups in which the alkyl group comprises for example from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, amidoalkyl groups (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) lower, or R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ can form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl and morpholinyl; And

Y' is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, and phosphate. These polymers are described, for example, in French patent no ^. 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406.

In one embodiment, R ₁₀ and R ₁₁ , identical or different, are chosen from alkyl groups comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Examples of such polymers include, but are not limited to, a (co)poly(diallyldialkylammonium chloride) such as the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name "MERQUAT ^® 100" by the company CALGON (and its counterparts from low weight average molecular mass) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name “MERQUAT ^® 550”.

Quaternary diammonium polymers comprising at least one repeated unit of formula (II):

(II)

in which :

R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ , identical or different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, and arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and lower aliphatic hydroxyalkyl groups, or R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ , and R ₁₆ can form, jointly or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups, linear or branched, substituted by at least one group chosen from nitrile groups, ester groups, acyl groups, amide groups, -CO-OR groups ₁₇ - E and -CO-NH-R ₁₇ -E groups, in which R ₁₇ is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group;

A ₁ and B ₁ , identical or different, are chosen from polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may comprise, linked or intercalated in the main chain, at at least one entity selected from aromatic rings, oxygen, sulfur, sulfoxide groups, sulfone groups, disulfide groups, amino groups, alkylamino groups, hydroxyl groups, quaternary ammonium groups, ureido groups, amide groups, ester groups, and

X ^- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid;

A ₁ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₅ can form, together with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring;

if A ₁ is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups, B1 can be chosen from:

-(CH ₂ ) _n -CO-E'-OC-(CH ₂ ) _n -

in which E' is chosen from:

a) glycol residues of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and the groups of following formulas:

-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _x -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -

-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O] _y -CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-

in which x and y, identical or different, are chosen from the integers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent a defined and unique degree of polymerization, and the numbers ranging from 1 to 4, which represent an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as piperazine derivatives;

c) bis-primary diamine residues of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbon groups and the divalent group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -SS-CH ₂ -CH ₂ - ; And

d) ureylene groups of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

In at least one embodiment, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

Polymers of this type are described, for example, in French patents ^No. 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and in American patents ^No. 2,273,780; 2,375,853; 2,388,614; 2,454,547; 3,206,462; 2,261,002; 2,271,378; 3,874,870; 4,001,432; 3,929,990; 3,966,904; 4,005,193; 4,025,617; 4,025,627; 4,025,653; 4,026,945; and 4,027,020.

Non-limiting examples of such polymers include those comprising at least one repeated unit of formula (III):

(III)

in which

R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R ₁₅ and R ₁₆ , identical or different, are chosen from alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 20 , and X ^- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.

(11) Polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV):

(IV)

in which :

R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen, methyl groups, ethyl groups, propyl groups, β-hydroxyethyl groups, β-hydroxypropyl groups, -CH ₂ CH ₂ groups (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p OH, in which p is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 6, provided that R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ , and R ₂₁ are not simultaneously hydrogen,

r and s, identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 6,

q is chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 34,

X ^- is an anion such as a halide, and

A is chosen from dihalide radicals and --CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -.

Such compounds are described, for example, in European patent application ^No. 0 122 324.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

Other examples of suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, cationic proteins and cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, such as polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising units selected from vinylpyridine and vinylpyridinium units, polyamine condensates and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the at least one cationic polymer is chosen from derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, such as the products sold under the name “JR 400” by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION , cationic cyclopolymers, for example, homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the names MERQUAT ^® 100, MERQUAT ^® 550, MERQUAT ^® S by the company CALGON, guar gums modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium , quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole.

(13) Polyamines

As a cationic polymer, it is also possible to use (co)polyamines, which can be homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the polymer backbone or in a side group, if present, of (co)polyamines.

As an example of (co)polyamines, mention may be made of chitosan, (co)polyallylamines, (co)polyvinylamines, (co)polyanilines, (co)polyvinylimidazoles, (co)polydimethylaminoethylenemethacrylates, (co)polyvinylpyridines such as (co)poly-1 -methyl-2-vinylpyridines, (co)polyimines such as (co)polyethyleneimines, (co)polypyridines such as (co)poly(quaternary pyridines), (co)polybiguanides such as (co)polyaminopropyl biguanides, (co)polylysines, (co)polyornithines, (co)polyarginines, (co)polyhistidines, aminodextrans, aminocelluloses, amino(co)polyvinylacetals, and salts thereof.

As (co)polyamines, it is preferable to use chitosans. Chitosan is well known. Chitosan can be a linear polysaccharide composed of D-glucosamine (deacetylated unit) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine (acetylated unit) randomly distributed and linked in β-(1→4). The molecular weight of the chitosan may be 5,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 10,000 to 500,000, and more preferably 50,000 to 200,000. The degree of actylation of the chitosan may be 1.0% at 10.0%, preferably 2.0% to 8.0%, and more preferably 3.0% to 6.0%. Chitosan can be prepared, for example, by treating the chitin shells of shrimp and other shellfish with an alkaline substance, such as sodium hydroxide.

As (co)polyamines, it may be preferable to use (co)polylysines. Polylysine is also well known. Polylysine may be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine that can be produced by bacterial fermentation. For example, the polylysine may be ε-poly-L-lysine, typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water, propylene glycol and glycerol. Polylysine is commercially available in different forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. The polylysine can be in salt and/or solution form.

(14) Cationic polyamino acids

As the cationic polymer, it is possible to use cationic polyamino acids, which may be cationic homopolymers or copolymers, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group may be a primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amino group. The amino group may be present in the backbone of a polymer or in a pendant group, if present, of cationic polyamino acids. The carboxyl group may be present in a pendant group, if present, of cationic polyamino acids.

As examples of cationic polyamino acids, mention may be made of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, wheat protein hydrolyzed by hydroxyprolyl of steardimonium, wheat protein hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyl of cocodimonium, conchiolin protein hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyltrimonium, soy protein hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyl steardimonium, soy protein hydrolyzed by hydroxypropyltrimonium, soy protein hydrolyzed by cocodimonium, and the like.

The following descriptions relate to preferable embodiments of the cationic polymer.

It may be preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from cationic starches.

As examples of cationic starches, mention may be made of starches modified by a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example chloride), such as the product known under the name hydroxypropyltrimonium starch chloride according to the nomenclature INCl and sold under the name SENSOMER ^TM Cl-50 from Ondeo or PencareTM DP 1015 from Ingredion.

It may also be preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from cationic gums.

The gums may be, for example, selected from the group consisting of cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum and gum arabic.

Examples of cationic gum include cationic polygalactomannan derivatives such as guar gum derivatives and cassia gum derivatives, e.g., CTFA: hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride and guar chloride Cassia hydroxypropyltrimonium. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is commercially available under the Jaguar™ line of trade names from Rhodia Inc. and the N-Hance line of trade names from Ashland Inc. Cassie's hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is available commercially under the Sensomer brand names ™ CT-250 and Sensomer™ CT-400 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. or ClearHanceTM from Ashland Inc.

It may also be preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from chitosans.

It may be further preferred that the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)polydiallyldialkylammonium chloride, (co)polyamines such as (co)polylysines, Cationic (co)polyamino acids such as cationized collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, chitosans and their salts.

It may be even more preferable that the (a-1) cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-67, starch hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride cassia, polylysine, chitosan and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (a-1) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably preferred by 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and so more preferred from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof. Two or more monovalent nonpolymeric acids or their salts may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof can be used.

The term “non-polymeric” here means that the acid is not obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers. Consequently, non-polymeric acid does not correspond to an acid obtained by polymerization of two or more monomers such as polyacrylic acids.

The term "salt" here designates a salt formed by addition of one or more suitable bases to the monovalent non-polymeric acid, which can be obtained from a reaction of the monovalent non-polymeric acid with the base or bases according to processes known to those skilled in the art. As salt, mention may be made of metal salts, for example alkali metal salts such as Na and K, and alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.

It is preferable that the molecular weight of the (a-2) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or its salt is less than 1000, preferably 500 or less, and more preferably 100 or less.

The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be included in the (a) aqueous phase. The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof can cause the (a-1) cationic polymer to be dissolved in the (a) aqueous phase. The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or one of its salts can form a complex with the (a-1) cationic polymer.

The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be chosen from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and their salts, preferably monovalent organic acids and their salts, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids. and their salts.

The (a-2) monovalent nonpolymeric acid has a single acidic group which may be selected from the group consisting of a carboxylic group, a sulfuric group, a sulfonic group, a phosphoric group, a phosphonic group, and a mixture thereof. this.

The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid can be chosen from hydroxy acids, and preferably alpha-hydroxy acids. As alpha-hydroxy acids, we can cite, for example, lactic acid and glycolic acid.

The (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably lactic acid.

The amount of the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid(s) or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15%. by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a-3) water.

The (a-3) water can form an aqueous phase which is a continuous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

The amount of (a-3) water may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 45% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. .

The amount of (a-3) water may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less, and more preferably 80% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (a-3) water can be from 40% to 90% by weight, preferably from 45% to 85% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Oil)

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-1) at least one oil. If two (b) or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

By “oil”, we mean here a compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil may be a nonpolar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture of these.

The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, apricot oil, flaxseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil. , sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, stearate isocetyl, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols, as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy. non-sugar C ₄ -C ₂₆ alcohols.

These include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term “sugar” designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars which may be mentioned include sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl, for example methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may contain one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or their mixtures such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and in particular mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

An example that can be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate , ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), tetra(2-ethylhexanoate) ) pentaerythrityl, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, tri(caprate/caprylate ) glyceryl and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used according to the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work of Walter Noll, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) Cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C. We can cite for example decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation:

- Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 range or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

- oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia;

- oils from the 200 range from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; And

- Viscasil® oils from the General Electric company and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from the General Electric company.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones with aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenylsilicone oil can be chosen from phenylsilicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ , independently of each other, are C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals, and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

As examples, we can include products sold under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 range from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product;

- certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyltrimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl groups; p, q and n = 0; m = 1 in the above formula) is preferable.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus cite silicone KF-6017 offered by Shin-Etsu, and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the company Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples which may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; And

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam, and squalane.

Preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (for example, liquid paraffin), paraffin, petroleum jelly or petrolatum, naphthalenes and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and the decene/butene copolymer; and their mixtures.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol can have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated radicals, linear and branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferred from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

As an example of fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol and their mixtures.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably C 6 -C 30 alcohols. C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ linear or branched, saturated.

The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here refers to an alcohol having a long saturated aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is chosen from all saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, C ₆ -C ₃₀ . Among the saturated C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, the saturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can be used preferably. All C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ saturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, can be used more preferably. Branched C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty alcohols can be used more preferably.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and their mixtures.

It is preferable that the (b-1) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils.

According to the present invention, the (b-1) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of cationic polymers (a-1) or a complex of the (a-1) cationic polymers and the (a-2) non-polymeric acid monovalent or a salt thereof, or the (b-1) oil may be present in the hollow of a capsule formed by the cationic polymers (a-1) or the complex above. In other words, the (b-1) oil can be covered by the cationic polymers (a-1) or the complex above, or a capsule formed by the cationic polymers (a-1) and the complex above. above includes the (b-1) oil in the hollow of the capsule.

The (b-1) oil which is surrounded by the cationic polymers (a-1) or the complex above, or present in the hollow of the capsule formed by the cationic polymers (a-1) or the complex above cannot directly contact any keratinous substance such as skin. Thus, even if the (b-1) oil has a sticky or greasy feel when used, the composition according to the present invention will not give a sticky or greasy feel when used.

The amount of the (b-1) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more. % by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (b-2) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less. % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (b-2) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Fatty acid]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b-2) at least one fatty acid. If two or more fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.

The term “fatty acid” here designates a carboxylic acid with a long aliphatic carbon chain.

The (b-2) fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. The (b-2) fatty acid may comprise up to 24 carbon atoms, preferably up to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably up to 20 carbon atoms. It is preferable that the (b-2) fatty acid is chosen from C ₆ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, more preferably from C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, and even more preferably from fatty acids in C ₈ -C ₂₀ .

The (b-2) fatty acid can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (b-2) fatty acid can be chosen from saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, in C ₄ -C ₂₄ , preferably in C ₆ -C ₂₂ , more preferably in C ₈ -C ₂₀ .

As unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids, monounsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids or polyunsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids can be used. As the unsaturated fraction of unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, we can mention a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond.

As a saturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of caprylic acid (C ₈ ), pelargonic acid (C ₉ ), capric acid (C ₁₀ ), lauric acid (C ₁₂ ), myristic acid (C ₁₄ ), pentadecanoic acid ( C ₁₅ ), palmitic acid (C ₁₆ ), heptadecanoic acid (C ₁₇ ), stearic acid (C ₁₈ ), isostearic acid (C ₁₈ ), nonadecanoic acid (C ₁₉ ), arachidic acid (C ₂₀ ), behenic acid (C ₂₂ ) and lignoceric acid (C ₂₄ ).

As an unsaturated fatty acid, mention may be made, for example, of myristoleic acid (C ₁₄ ), palmitoleic acid (C ₁₆ ), oleic acid (C ₁₈ ), linoleic acid (C ₁₈ ), linolenic acid (C 18), elaidic acid (C ₁₈ ). C ₁₈ ), arachidonic acid (C ₂₀ ), eicosenoic acid (C ₂₀ ), erucic acid (C ₂₂ ) and nervonic acid (C ₂₄ ).

It is preferable that the (b-2) fatty acid is chosen from saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, linear or branched, and more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

The (b-2) fatty acid may be in the form of a free acid or in the form of a salt thereof. As the salt of the fatty acid, there may be mentioned an inorganic salt such as an alkali metal salt (a sodium salt, a potassium salt or the like) and an alkaline earth metal salt (a magnesium salt , a calcium salt or the like); and an organic salt such as an ammonium salt (a quaternary ammonium salt or the like) and an amine salt (a triethanolamine salt, a triethylamine salt or the like). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts can be used. Additionally, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the form of a free acid and one or more fatty acids in the form of a salt may be used, wherein one or more types of salts may also be used.

The quantity of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably preferred by 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the quantity of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and so more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Consequently, the quantity of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight. , and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the quantity of the (b-2) fatty acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[pH]

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 3 to 9, preferably from 3.5 to 8.5, and more preferably from 3.5 to 8.

At a pH ranging from 3 to 9, the (a) particle can be very stable.

The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one acid, other than the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.

(Alkaline agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents can be used.

The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.

Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As an inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferable.

The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; basic amino acid oligomers and derivatives thereof; polymers of basic amino acids and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

As examples of organic alkaline agents, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, and isopropanolamine; urea, guanidine and their derivatives; basic amino acids such as lysine, ornithine or arginine; and diamines such as those described in the structure below:

in which R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radical which can be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.

The alkaline agent(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, of more preferably from 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

(Acid)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one acid other than the (d) acid to be incorporated into the (a) particle. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids can be used.

As acid, mention may be made of all inorganic or organic acids, preferably inorganic acids, which are commonly used in cosmetic products, such as HCl. A multipurpose acid can be used.

The acid(s) may be used in a total amount of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.02% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.03% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, depending on their solubility.

(Buffer agent)

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one buffering agent. Two or more buffering agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of buffering agent or a combination of different types of buffering agents can be used.

As a buffering agent, mention may be made of an acetate buffer (for example, acetic acid + sodium acetate), a phosphate buffer (for example, sodium dihydrogen phosphate + disodium hydrogen phosphate), a citrate buffer (for example, citric acid + sodium citrate ), borate buffer (e.g., boric acid + sodium borate), tartrate buffer (e.g., tartaric acid + sodium tartrate dihydrate), Tris buffer (e.g., tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane), Hepes buffer (4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-piperazineethanesulfonic acid).

[Optional Additives]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, components typically used in cosmetics, in particular surfactants/emulsifiers, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, for example derived from synthetic polymers other than cationic and anionic polymers to be used for ( a-1) cationic polymer, from volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; nonionic polymers such as beta glucan; of silicones and silicone derivatives other than (b) oil, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, waxes, and the like, in a range which does not alter the effects of the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the optional additive(s) above in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0 .1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited quantity of surfactant(s)/emulsifier(s) and/or synthetic thickener(s) and/or organic solvent(s) for the sake of respect for the environment.

The quantity of surfactant(s)/emulsifier(s) and/or synthetic thickener(s) and/or organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the composition according to the present invention does not include any synthetic surfactant/emulsifier or thickener or organic solvent.

[Preparation]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and a homogenizer. Additionally, heating may not be necessary. Therefore, the process for preparing the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.

[Cosmetic composition]

The composition according to the present invention may be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be intended to be applied to a keratinous substance. By keratinous substance, we mean here a material containing keratin as the main constituent element, and by way of example, we can include the skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and others. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is used for a cosmetic process of the keratinous substance, in particular the skin.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a skin care composition or a skin makeup composition, and more preferably a skin care composition.

[Shape]

In the composition according to the present invention, (b-1) oil can form fatty phases, (a-3) water can form an aqueous phase, and the fatty phases can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. Thus, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the fatty phase can function as a dispersed phase.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be in the form of an O/W dispersion such as an O/W emulsion. If the composition according to the present invention is of the O/W type, it can provide a feeling of freshness thanks to (a-3) the water which constitutes the external phase.

[Mechanism]

Figure 1 shows schematic drawings showing the behaviors of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase, and the examples of hydrophobization of the (a-1) cationic polymer, in one embodiment of the present invention.

A plurality of the (a-1) cationic polymers or a complex of the (a-1) cationic polymers and the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof may be present at the interface between the (b ) fatty phase and the (a) aqueous phase. Thus, the (a-1) cationic polymers or the above complex can form an emulsion without the help of any conventional surfactant or emulsifier. The emulsion formed by the (a-1) cationic polymer or the complex above may be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

Alternatively, a plurality of (a-1) cationic polymers or the above complex can form a capsule having a hollow. (b-1) oil may be present in the hollow. In other words, (b-1) oil can be incorporated into the capsule. The capsule wall may be composed of a continuous layer or film formed from the (a-1) cationic polymers or the above complex. Without wishing to make a theory of it, it is believed that the cationic polymers (a-1) or the complex above can reorganize at the interface of (b-1) oil and (a-3) water to spontaneously form a capsule with a hollow to include the (b-1) oil. For example, a continuous aqueous phase comprising (a-3) water and dispersed phases comprising (b-1) oil in the capsule can form an O/W emulsion which can also be similar to a so-called Pickering emulsion.

The (b) fatty phase comprises the (b-2) fatty acid. The (b-2) fatty acid in the (b) fatty phase can hydrophobize the (a-1) cationic polymer in-situ. Figure 1 shows a diagram of hydrophobization of (a-1) cationic polymer by (b-2) fatty acid.

Figure 1A shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase, in the case where the (b) fatty phase does not include (b-2) fatty acid.

In Figure 1A, the (a-1) cationic polymer has insufficient hydrophobicity. Consequently, the affinity between the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b) fatty phase including the (b-1) oil is limited. Thus, the emulsification of the (b) fatty phase in the (a) aqueous phase is less stable.

On the other hand, Figure 1B shows a schematic drawing showing the behavior of (a-1) cationic polymers around a (b) fatty phase, such as an oil droplet, dispersed in a (a) aqueous phase , in the case where the (b) fatty phase includes a (b-2) fatty acid.

In Figure 1B, the carboxylic group of the (b-2) fatty acid in the (b) fatty phase can interact ionically with the cationic or cationizable group, such as an ammonium group or an amino group, in the (a-1 ) cationic polymer, as shown in Figure 1C. Therefore, the (a-1) cationic polymer is ionically hydrophobized and can have sufficient hydrophobicity. Consequently, the affinity between the (a-1) cationic polymer and the (b) fatty phase including the (b-1) oil is reinforced. Thus, the emulsification of the (b) fatty phase in the (a) aqueous phase is stable.

The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a film. The (a) particles can aggregate and integrate into a continuous film.

Thus, the present invention may also relate to a method for preparing a film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally of a thickness preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising:

the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; And

drying the composition.

The upper limit of the thickness of the film according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the film according to the present invention may be less than or equal to 1 mm, preferably less than or equal to 500 μm, more preferably less than or equal to 300 μm, and even more preferably less than or equal to 100 μm.

Since the process for preparing a film according to the present invention includes the steps of applying the composition according to the present invention to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, and drying the composition , the process according to the present invention does not require spinning or spraying, and it is therefore possible to easily prepare even a relatively thick film. Thus, the film preparation method according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without any special equipment such as spinners and spraying machines.

Even though the film according to the present invention is relatively thick, it is still thin and may be transparent, and therefore may not be easy to perceive. Thus, the film according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.

If the substrate is not a keratinous substance such as skin, the composition according to the present invention can be applied to a substrate consisting of any material other than keratin. Non-keratinous substrate materials are not limited. Two or more materials may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of material or a combination of different types of materials can be used. In all cases, it is preferable that the substrate be flexible or elastic.

If the substrate is not a keratinous substance, it is preferable that the substrate be soluble in water, since it is possible to leave the film according to the present invention by washing the substrate with water. Examples of water-soluble materials include poly(meth)acrylic acids, polyethylene glycols, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), starch, cellulose acetates, and others. PVA is preferable.

If the non-keratinous substrate is in the form of a sheet, it may have a thickness greater than that of the film according to the present invention, in order to facilitate the handling of the film attached to the substrate sheet. The thickness of the non-keratinous substrate sheet is not limited, but can be between 1 µm and 5 mm, preferably between 10 µm and 1 mm, and more preferably between 50 and 500 µm.

It is more preferable that the film according to the present invention is releasable from the non-keratinous substrate. The release mode is not limited. Thus, the film according to the present invention can be peeled off from the non-keratinous substrate, or released by dissolving the substrate sheet in a solvent such as water.

The present invention may also relate to:

(1) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more , prepared by a process comprising:

the application to a substrate, preferably a keratinous substance, and more preferably the skin, of the composition according to the present invention; And.

drying the composition,

And

(2) A film, preferably a cosmetic film, optionally with a thickness of preferably greater than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, and even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising :

at least one cationic polymer and at least one anionic polymer,

at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof,

at least one oil, and

at least one fatty acid.

The above explanations regarding the cationic polymer, and the monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as the above oil and fatty acid can be applied to those of films (1) and (2) above.

The film thus obtained above can be self-supporting. The term “self-supporting” here means that the film can be in the form of a sheet and can be handled as an independent sheet without the aid of a substrate or support. Thus, the term “self-supporting” can have the same meaning as “self-supporting”.

It is preferable that the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic.

The term "hydrophobic" in the present specification means that the solubility of the film in water (preferably with a volume of 1 liter) at a temperature of 20 to 40°C, preferably 25 to 40°C, and more preferably from 30 to 40°C is less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the film. Preferably, the film is not soluble in water.

If the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film may have water-resistant properties, and therefore, it may remain on a keratinous substance such as skin even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to , for example, sweat and rain. Thus, when the film according to the present invention provides any cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last a long time.

On the other hand, the film according to the present invention can be easily removed from a keratinous substance such as skin under alkaline conditions such as pH 8 to 12, preferably 9 to 11. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with soap which can create such alkaline conditions.

The film according to the present invention may comprise at least one layer of biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymer. Two or more biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymers can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymers can be used.

The term "biocompatible" polymer in this specification means that the polymer does not exhibit excessive interaction between the polymer and cells of the living body, including the skin, and that the polymer is not recognized by the living body as a foreign material.

The term "biodegradable" polymer in this specification means that the polymer can be degraded or broken down in a living body due to, for example, the metabolism of the living body itself or the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the living body. Likewise, the biodegradable polymer can be degraded by hydrolysis.

If the film according to the present invention includes a biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymer, it is less irritable or non-irritable to the skin, and does not cause a rash. Furthermore, thanks to the use of a biocompatible and/or biodegradable polymer, the cosmetic sheet according to the present invention can adhere well to the skin.

The film according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments of keratinous substances, preferably of the skin, in particular of the face. The film according to the present invention can be of any shape. For example, it can be used as a mask sheet for the entire face, or a patch for a part of the face such as the cheek, nose, and eye area.

If the film according to the present invention includes at least one hydrophilic or water-soluble UV filter, it can provide UV protection effects derived from the hydrophilic or water-soluble UV filter. Normally, a hydrophilic or water-soluble UV filter can be removed from the surface of a keratinous substrate such as skin by water, such as sweat and rain. However, since the hydrophilic or water-soluble UV filter is included in the film according to the present invention, it is difficult for the hydrophilic or water-soluble UV filter to be removed by water, thereby allowing achieve long-lasting UV protection effects.

[Process and cosmetic use]

The present invention also relates to:

a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as the skin, comprising: applying to the keratinous substance the composition according to the present invention; and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance; Or

a use of the composition according to the present invention for the preparation of a cosmetic film on a keratinous substance such as the skin.

By cosmetic process, we mean here a non-therapeutic cosmetic process of care and/or makeup of the surface of a keratinous substance such as the skin.

In the above method and use, the above cosmetic film is resistant to water with a pH of 7 or less, and can be removed with water with a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 9 or more.

In other words, the above cosmetic film can be water resistant under neutral or acidic conditions such as pH 7 or less, preferably in a range of 6 or more and 7 or less, and more preferably in a range of 5 or more and 7 or less, while the above cosmetic film can be removed under alkaline conditions such as a pH of more than 7, preferably 8 or more, and so more preferred 9 or more. The upper limit of the pH is preferably 13, more preferably 12, and even more preferably 11.

Accordingly, the above cosmetic film can be water resistant, and therefore, it can remain on a keratinous substance such as skin even if the surface of the keratinous substance is wet due to, for example, sweat and rain. On the other hand, the above cosmetic film can be easily removed from a keratinous substance such as skin under alkaline conditions. Therefore, the film according to the present invention is difficult to remove with water, while it can be easily removed with soap which can create alkaline conditions.

If the cosmetic film above includes a UV filter which may be present in the composition according to the present invention, the cosmetic film above can protect a keratinous substance such as the skin from UV rays, thus limiting the darkening of the skin, improving the color and evenness of the complexion, and/or treating aging of the skin.

In addition, the above cosmetic film can have cosmetic effects such as capturing sebum, mattifying the appearance of a keratinous substrate such as the skin, absorbing or adsorbing bad odors, and/or or the protection of the keratinous substance against, for example, dirt or pollutants, due to the properties of the polyion complex particles in the cosmetic film, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredients.

Furthermore, the aforementioned cosmetic film can immediately change or modify the appearance of the skin by changing the reflection of light on the skin and the like, even if the cosmetic film does not include any cosmetic active ingredients. Therefore, it may be possible for the above cosmetic film to conceal skin defects such as pores or wrinkles. In addition, the above cosmetic film can immediately change or modify the touch feeling of the skin by changing the roughness of the skin surface and the like. Furthermore, the aforementioned cosmetic film can immediately protect the skin by covering the surface of the skin and protecting the skin, as a barrier, against environmental aggressions such as pollutants, contaminants and others.

The above cosmetic effects can be adjusted or controlled by changing the chemical composition, thickness and/or surface roughness of the above cosmetic film.

If the above cosmetic film includes at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (b) oil, the cosmetic film may have cosmetic effects provided by the additional cosmetic active ingredient(s). For example, if the cosmetic film includes at least one cosmetic active ingredient chosen from anti-aging agents, anti-sebum agents, deodorant agents, anti-perspirant agents, whitening agents and a mixture thereof, the cosmetic film can treat aging of the skin, absorbing oil on the skin, controlling odor on the skin, controlling sweating on the skin, and/or whitening the skin.

It is also possible to apply a cosmetic makeup composition to the cosmetic film or sheet according to the present invention after it has been applied to the skin.

The present invention also relates to a use of (b-2) at least one fatty acid in a composition, comprising:

(a-1) at least one cationic polymer;

(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;

(a-3) water; And

(b-1) at least one oil,

to increase the amount of the (b-1) oil in the composition to be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The above explanations regarding the cationic polymer and the monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof, as well as the above oil and fatty acid, may apply to those of the above use. above.

The above use according to the present invention can enhance the stability of the composition even if the composition comprises a relatively large amount of oil, such as 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition. Therefore, phase separation of the composition can be avoided for a long time.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail using examples. However, they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Examples 1-5 and comparative example 1

[Preparations]

(Example 1)

Two grams of an aqueous solution (80% by weight) of chitosan (MW: 100,000) were added to water, then 1 g of lactic acid was added with stirring. Then, 20 g of zea mays (corn) germ oil and 0.5 g of oleic acid were added with stirring. Thus, an O/W type composition comprising a chitosan-lactate complex was prepared. The preparation was carried out at room temperature without heating.

(Examples 2-5)

In Examples 2-5, the procedures for preparing the composition according to Example 1 were repeated provided that the ingredients shown in Table 1 were used to prepare the compositions according to Examples 2-5.

(Comparative Example 1)

In comparative example 1, the procedures for preparing the composition according to example 1 were repeated provided that oleic acid was not used.

The ingredients used to prepare the compositions according to Examples 1-5 and Comparative Example 1 are shown in Table 1. The units of the ingredient quantities shown in Table 1 are all "grams".

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 1
Comp. Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan
(80% aqueous solution by weight) 2 2 2 2 2 2 Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil 20 20 20 20 - 20 Diisopropyl sebacate - - - - 20 - Oleic acid 0.5 1.15 1.7 3.5 0.5 - Lactic acid 1 1 1 1 1 1 Stability Very good Very good Very good Very good Good Very bad

[Ratings]

(Microscopic observation)

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was subjected to microscopic observation. Photomicrographs of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown on the .

The size of the oil droplets in the composition according to Example 1 was small, and the oil droplets were uniformly dispersed, whereas the size of the oil droplets in the composition according to Comparative Example 1 varied, and the Oil droplets were not uniformly dispersed, forming some agglomerates.

(Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 5 and Comparative Example 1 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very good: The composition was uniform.

Good: The composition was uniform, but a slight irregularity was observed.

Bad: the composition was not uniform and an irregularity was observed.

Very poor: Phase separation was observed.

The results are shown in Table 1.

The compositions according to Examples 1-5 were stable in maintaining a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation, whereas the composition according to Comparative Example 1 was not stable because a phase separation was observed.

The compositions according to Examples 1-4 were more preferable because they had better stability than the composition according to Example 5.

Examples 6-7 and comparative example 2

[Preparations]

(Example 6)

Two grams of an aqueous solution (80% by weight) of chitosan (MW: 100,000) were added to water, then 1 g of lactic acid was added with stirring. Then, 30 g of zea mays (corn) germ oil and 1.7 g of oleic acid were added with stirring. Thus, an O/W type composition comprising a chitosan-lactate complex was prepared. The preparation was carried out at room temperature without heating.

(Examples 7)

In Example 7, the procedures for preparing the composition according to Example 6 were repeated provided that the quantity of zea mays (corn) germ oil was 40 g.

(Comparative Example 2)

In comparative example 2, the procedures for preparing the composition according to example 6 were repeated provided that the quantity of zea mays (corn) germ oil was 51 g.

The ingredients used to prepare the compositions according to Examples 6-7 and Comparative Example 2 are shown in Table 2. The units of the ingredient quantities shown in Table 2 are all "grams".

Example 6 Example 7 Ex. 2 Comp. Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan
(80% aqueous solution by weight) 2 2 2 Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil 30 40 51 Oleic acid 1.7 1.7 1.7 Lactic acid 1 1 1 Stability Very good Very good Very bad

[Ratings]

(Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 6-7 and Comparative Example 2 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very good: The composition was uniform.

Good: The composition was uniform, but a slight irregularity was observed.

Bad: the composition was not uniform and an irregularity was observed.

Very poor: Phase separation was observed.

The results are shown in Table 2.

The compositions according to Examples 6-7 were stable in maintaining a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation, while the composition according to Comparative Example 2 was not stable because phase separation was observed.

Examples 8-9

[Preparations]

(Example 8)

Two grams of an aqueous solution (80% by weight) of chitosan (MW: 100,000) were added to water, then 1 g of lactic acid was added with stirring. Then, 30 g of zea mays (corn) germ oil and 1.7 g of octanoic acid were added with stirring. Thus, an O/W type composition comprising a chitosan-lactate complex was prepared. The preparation was carried out at room temperature without heating.

(Examples 9)

In Example 9, the procedures for preparing the composition according to Example 8 were repeated provided that linoleic acid was used instead of octanoic acid.

The ingredients used to prepare the compositions according to Examples 8-9 are shown in Table 3. The units of the ingredient quantities shown in Table 3 are all "grams".

Example 8 Example 9 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 Chitosan
(80% aqueous solution by weight) 2 2 Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil 30 40 Octanoic acid 1.7 - Linoleic acid - 1.7 Lactic acid 1 1 Stability Very good Very good

[Ratings]

(Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 8-9 was stored in a transparent container at room temperature for one day. The stability of the compositions was observed visually and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria.

Very good: The composition was uniform.

Good: The composition was uniform, but a slight irregularity was observed.

Bad: the composition was not uniform and an irregularity was observed.

Very poor: Phase separation was observed.

The results are shown in Table 3.

The compositions according to Examples 8-9 were stable to maintain a uniform emulsified appearance, without phase separation.

Claims (9)

Composition, comprising:
(a-1) at least one cationic polymer;
(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
(a-3) water;
(b-1) at least one oil; And
(b-2) at least one fatty acid. Composition according to claim 1, in which the (a-1) cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of alkyldiallylamine cyclopolymers and dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as (co)poly(diallyldialkylammonium chloride), (co )polyamines such as (co)polylysines and chitosans, cationic (co)polyamino acids such as collagen, cationic cellulose polymers, and their salts. Composition according to claim 1 or according to claim 2, in which the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid is a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, and more preferably lactic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the (b-1) oil is chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from vegetable oils. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the (b-2) fatty acid is chosen from C ₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, preferably C ₆ -C ₂₀ , more preferably C ₈ -C ₁₈ , saturated and unsaturated, linear or branched. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises a (a) aqueous phase comprising the (a-1) cationic polymer, the (a-2) monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof , and (a-3) water. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the composition comprises (b) fatty phases comprising (b-1) oil, and (b-2) fatty acid. Cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin, comprising:
the application to the keratinous substance of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7; And
drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous substance. Use of (b-2) at least one fatty acid in a composition, comprising:
(a-1) at least one cationic polymer;
(a-2) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or a salt thereof;
(a-3) water; And
(b-1) at least one oil,
to increase the amount of the (b-1) oil in the composition to be 1% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.