FR2944436A1 - Composition, useful to treat human keratin materials, preferably e.g. skin, comprises fatty substance, surfactants comprising nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, non-filter cationic species, and liposoluble agents in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Non-colorant and non-oxidant composition, comprises: (a) at least 25 wt.% of one or more fatty substance; (b) one or more surfactants comprising nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; (c) one or more non-filter cationic species; and (d) one or more liposoluble agents different from fatty substance (a) in a medium.

Description

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A FATTY BODY AND A LIPOSOLUBLE ACTIVE, PROCESSING METHOD EMPLOYING THE SAME

The present invention relates to a non-oxidizing, non-dyeing human keratinous material treatment composition comprising a high fat content and one or more liposoluble beneficial agents. The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials using it.

It is well known that there is a need to treat keratin materials, such as skin, nails, hair, eyelashes and hair, which have been degraded by mechanical or physical treatments (combing, brushing ..) or chemical (colorations, discolorations, perms, perspiration, pollution ....) or by the bad weather (sun, rains, baths ...).

There is also a need to protect said materials from the deleterious effects mentioned above. Many assets have been proposed for these purposes but unfortunately their effectiveness is limited. The need for effective compositions in the aforementioned optics therefore continues.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition for treating human keratin materials, non-coloring and non-oxidizing, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: less than 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances; (b) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; (c) one or more non-filtering cationic species; (d) one or more liposoluble beneficial agents different from the fatty substances a).

It also relates to a method for treating human keratin materials comprising using the aforementioned composition.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a range of values are within this range. Human keratin materials processed by the process of the invention are preferably hair.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention is neither coloring nor oxidizing. More particularly, the composition does not comprise a direct dye, oxidation dye precursor (oxidation base and coupler) or any other compound which by reaction gives a colored species in the composition or on the fibers, usually used for the coloring of human keratinous fibers or, if it comprises, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers. It is recalled that the oxidation dye precursors, oxidation bases and couplers are compounds with little or no color which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species. As for direct dyes, these compounds are colored and have a certain affinity for keratinous fibers.

The composition according to the invention is also non-oxidizing. In other words, it does not include an oxidizing agent. More particularly, the composition is free of chemical oxidizing agents such as peroxides, organic peroxygen compounds, ferricyanides or even peroxygenated salts (such as persulfates, perborates, etc.), as well as enzymatic oxidizing agents, such as This has direct oxidative action on a compound or produces an oxidizing agent.

The compositions of the invention have increased efficacy with a larger and more consistent beneficial liposoluble compound deposition on keratin materials.

As indicated above, the dyeing composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% and preferably of 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. According to the invention, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, mineral or synthetic vegetable origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids IO more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. With regard to lower C6-C16 alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil or corn oil, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. Linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam. fluorinated oils, such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name 40 "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; .

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use the di-or tricarboxylic acid esters of C 1 -C 22 and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and the esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, alcohols. C2-026 tetra or pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of 6-030, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty acids, preferably linear or branched 0-12-022 fatty acids. or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.105 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR2 ## Examples of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and the mixture thereof, can also be mentioned.

mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

35. SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2 1401 marketed by Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500 000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2 12, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO372 and SiO412 wherein R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R 40 denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl.

Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiaryl siloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; 25. silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 alkyl groups; -C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerolated unit.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of plant, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% fat. The composition according to the invention more particularly has a fat content ranging from 25 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 25 to 65%, better still from 30 to 55% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants.

The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular salts of alkali metals, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as magnesium) of the following compounds alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulphonates, u-olefinsulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50, preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise any reasons. oxypropylenated.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 30 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: RO- [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] R, -H in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical at C8-C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds which are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of , lauryl alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 / C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol with 012 to 1.5 mole of glycerol.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants may be in particular (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic water-solubilising group (For example, carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkyls. Amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobetaines Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary. , 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: embedded image in which: R 2 denotes a linear alkyl radical, wherein R 2 denotes a linear alkyl radical; or C5-C20 branched from, for example, an R2-000H acid present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a betahydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R2'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes -000H or the radical -CH2 -CHOH-SO3H R2' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C5-C20 alkyl radical of an R9 -000H acid present, for example, in the coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, especially C7, C9, C8 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie.

Preferably, the surfactant present in the composition is a nonionic surfactant. The content of nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants in the composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. It is pointed out that the cationic species present in the composition is not filtering, that is to say that it does not have a maximum absorption in UVA or UVB. This cationic species is chosen from cationic surfactants or cationic polymers. Among the cationic surfactants that are suitable for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) below: + R1. R3 R2 R4

In which X- is an anion and (1) the radicals R1 to R3, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 aliphatic radical, or an aryl or alkylaryl radical, the radical alkyl being optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide group, R4 denotes a linear or branched C16-C30 alkyl radical; or (2) the radicals R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying a grouping C1-C4 alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl; R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C12-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function; (ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolium of formula (III) below: in which R5 represents an alkenyl or C12-C30 alkyl radical, R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical, R represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, X is an anion; (iii) quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV): embedded image in which R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, R 10, R 11, R 12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and X is an anion; (iv) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR2 ## wherein: ## STR5 ## R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C2-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R 16 is chosen from the radical R 19 -CO-, a radical R 20 alkyl or alkenyl at 01-022 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom, + X- • R 18 is chosen from the radical R 21 -CO-, a radical R 22 linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl or alkenyl, a hydrogen atom, R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; • n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; • y is an integer from 1 to 10; • x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10; • X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R18 is R22; (v) or mixtures thereof.

When the cationic species is a surfactant, it is more particularly chosen from compounds (i). When the cationic species is a cationic polymer, it is chosen from (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formulas (I), (II) , (III) or (IV): R3 R3 R3 ùCH2 0 =

O (II) A 1 N + R 4 R 6 N + R 5 R 4 R 6 R 2 NH (IV) A 1 N

In which: R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 -C 6, preferably C 2 -C 3, alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C18 alkyl group or a benzyl radical, and preferably a C1-C6 alkyl group; And R 2 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of: copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl holognide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl-trimethylammonium chloride described for example in EP 80976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methosulphate of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sold under the name Reten by Hercules, vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by the company ISP, for example "Gafquat 734 "or" Gafquat 755 "or the products referred to as" Copolymer 845, 958 and 937 ". These polymers are described in FR 2077143 and FR 2393573, the dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers marketed in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylamino propyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company ISP; and crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "Salcare SC 92" by the company Ciba. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "Salcare SC 95" and "Salcare SC 96" by the company Ciba. (2) The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in FR 1492597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described especially in US Pat. No. 4,135,776, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-grafted cellulose, in particular with a methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch. (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides disclosed in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are sold in particular under the trade names of Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17 or Jaguar C162 by Meyhall. (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in FR 2162025 and FR 2280361. (6) The water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in FR 2252840 and FR 2368508; The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylamino-hydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical is C 1 -C 4 and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are especially described in FR 1583363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (7) The polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic C3-C8 dicarboxylic acids. The molar ratio, between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. No. 3,227,615 and US 2961347.

Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57", "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules. (8) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium such as / (CH2) k

Wherein K and t are 0 or 1, the sum of k + t being 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R 1 and R 8, independently of each other, denote a C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is C 1 -C 5, a grouping

Amidoalkyl including C 1 -C 4 alkyl; R, and R8 may also designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a group homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main chain constituent, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): / (CH 2) k CR9 (R9) -CH2- - (CH2

Heterocyclic (V) heterocyclic, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R7 and R8 independently of one another preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group; Y- is an organic or inorganic anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in FR 2080759 and FR 2190406. Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco (and its counterparts of weak weight average molecular weight) and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat 550". (9) The quaternary diammonium polymers containing recurring units corresponding to the formula: ## STR1 ## in which: R10, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, are aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic C1-C6 radicals or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals whose alkyl radical is C1-C4, or R10, R11, R12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R10, R11, R12 and Rt3 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O group - R14-D or -CO-NHR14-D where R14 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent linear or branched C2-C6 polymethylene groups, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X. denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R10 and R12 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a - (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which n ranging from 1 to 6 and D denotes a quaternary ammonium group: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH2-CH2-; - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] Y CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100000.

Polymers of this type are described in particular in FR 2320330, FR 2270846, FR 2316271, FR 2336434, FR 2413907, US 2273780, US 2375853, US 2388614, US 2454547, US 3206462, US 2261002, US 2271378, US 3874870, US 4001432. , US 3929990, US 3966904, US 4005193, US 4025617, US 4025627, US 4025653, US 4026945 and US 4027020.

Polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the following formula (VIII) can be used more particularly: ## STR2 ## in which R 10, ## STR2 ## R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, n and p are integers ranging from approximately 2 to 6 and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid. Even more advantageously, the cationic polymers corresponding to this family comprise the recurring units of the following formulas (W) and (U): CH 3 CH 3 N + (CH 2) 3 -N + -CH 2) s] (W) Cl-1 Cl- CH 3 CH 3 and especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is between 9500 and 9900; ## STR2 ## and especially those whose molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography, is about 1200. (10) Polymers of quaternary polyammonium consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): ## STR3 ## wherein p denotes a quaternary polyammonium consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): ## STR2 ## integer varying from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - (CH 2) r CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, X- is an anion. Such polymers can be prepared according to the processes described in US 4157388, US 4702906, US 4719282. They are described in particular in the patent application EP 122324.

Among them, there may be mentioned, for example, the products "Mirapol A 15", "Mirapol AD1", "Mirapol AZ1" and "Mirapol 175" sold by Miranol. (11) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF.

(12) Polylysines, which correspond more particularly to the condensation of several amino acids lysine. By way of example of polylysine, mention may be made of:

poly-L-lysine epsilon (N = 5) sold by CHISSO CORPORATION which is a 5% solution of polylysine in water; - Polylysine 10% solution M Grade from CHISSO CORPORATION which is a 10% solution of polylysine in water; - the product polylysine 25% solution of CHISSO CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of polylysine in water;

the polylysine product 50% of CHISSO CORPORATION which is a 50/50 mixture of polylysine (N = 25 to 30) with dextrin. According to one particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example a polylysine with a fatty chain as described in application FR 2889448, a polylysine with a guanidine or biguanidine function as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in the application FR2853533. The polylysine may be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. The addition salts with an acid are, for example, the hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid or sulfuric or citric or succinic or tartaric or lactic acid or para-toluenesulphonic or phosphoric or acetic acid salts or the fatty acid salts such as linoleic, oleic and palmitic acids. , stearic, behenic and 18-methylicosanoic. The addition salts with a base are, for example, the sodium and calcium salts and the hydroxyalkylamine salts, for example N-methylglucamine, aminopropanediol or triethanolamine. (13) Polyethyleneimines (14) Partially hydrolysed polyvinylformamides.

Among the cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (8), (9) are more advantageously used. or their mixtures. Preferably, the cationic polymers used are chosen from families (1), (8) and (9) and even more preferably correspond to the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and / or to a polymer of formula (U) or (W) above or cross-linked homo or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts.

Preferably the cationic species is a cationic polymer.

The concentration of the cationic species that can be used according to the present invention can preferably vary from 0.05 to 15%, even more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.2 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention furthermore comprises one or more liposoluble beneficial agents. For the purposes of the invention, the term "beneficial agent for keratinous fibers" is intended to mean an agent capable, in particular, of protecting, embellishing, conditioning, treating and / or keeping said fibers, and in particular the hair, in shape. In addition, the beneficial agents are said to be liposoluble when they have at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a solubility in water of less than 5%, more particularly 1%, and preferably 0.1% by weight.

Preferably, the liposoluble compounds are soluble at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure of greater than 1% and preferably greater than 5% in at least one of the following compounds: isopropyl myristate, liquid petrolatum, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Preferably, the liposoluble compounds have a log P greater than 0 and preferably greater than 1. This log P value conventionally represents the partition coefficient of the compound between octanol and water; The value of log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficient, J.Pharm.Sci: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be determined from many commercially available software that determines the value of log P based on the structure of a molecule. As an example, there is the Epiwin software Version 3.11 of the United States Environmental Agency. This value can also be determined experimentally. The composition according to the invention thus comprises one or more liposoluble beneficial agents preferably chosen from the fat-soluble compounds below or their mixtures: Ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, Liposoluble UV-screening agents Antioxidants and anti-radical agents Free, fat-soluble • Fat-soluble anti-dandruff agents, o Sebaceous fat-regulating agents, • Liposoluble soothing agents, • Fat-soluble vitamins The composition according to the invention can comprise one or more ceramides and / or pseudo-ceramides. Mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification, and mixtures thereof. In particular, it is possible to use a compound of the following formula: embedded image in which: R 5 denotes: - a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C5 -050, this radical may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, this or these hydroxyl group (s) being optionally esterified (s) with a R1000OH acid, R10 being a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxyl, C 1 -C 35, the hydroxyl group (s) of the radical R 10 which can be esterified with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, C 1 -C 35 fatty acid, or a radical; R "- (NR-CO) -R ', in which R denotes a hydrogen atom or a mono- or polyhydroxylated C 1 -C 20 hydrocarbon radical, preferably monohydroxylated, R' and R" are hydrocarbon radicals whose sum of carbon atoms is included e between 9 and 30, R 'being a divalent radical, - or a radical R11-O-CO- (CH2) p, in which R11 denotes a hydrocarbon radical C1-C20, p being an integer ranging from 1 to 12 inclusively; R6 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) m, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 inclusive and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8 inclusive; - R, denotes a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon radical C1-C33, saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or otherwise, the hydroxyl radical (s) may be esterified with a mineral acid or an acid R1000OH, Rio having the same meaning as above, the hydroxyl radical (s) can be etherified with a (glycosyl) n, (galactosyl) n, sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, R, which can also be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 1 alkyl radicals; R, preferably denotes a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group of which may optionally be esterified with a C16-C30 ahydroxy acid; R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C3-C50 hydrocarbon radical, or a radical -CH2-CHOH-CH2-O-R12 in which R12 denotes a C10-C26 hydrocarbon radical or a R11-O-CO- (CH2) p radical, R11 denoting a C1-C20 hydrocarbon radical and p being an integer varying from 1 to 12 inclusive; R 5 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radical, the hydroxyl radical (s) being etherified with a (glycosyl) radical; n, (galactosyl) m, sulfogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium; with the proviso that when R 1 and R 9 denote a hydrogen atom or when R denotes a hydrogen atom and R 9 denotes a methyl radical, then R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethyl radical. Such compounds are, for example: 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane; 1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N- [2-hydroxy-palmitoyl] ] -amino-octadecane-1,3-diol, 2-N-stearoyl aminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1 , 3-diol or mixtures of these compounds.

It is also possible to use specific mixtures such as for example the mixtures of ceramide (s) 2 and ceramide (s) according to the DOWNING classification. It is also possible to use the compounds of formula (1) for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C 12 -C 22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH = CH- (CH2) 12-CH3 group.

By way of example, mention may be made of the product consisting of a mixture of glycoceramides sold under the trade name GLYCOCER by the company WAITAKI INTERNATIONAL BIOSCIENCES.

The compounds of formula (1) described in patent applications EP-A-0227994, EP-A-0 647 617, EP-A-0 736 522 and WO 94/07844 can also be used. Such compounds are, for example, QUESTAMIDE H (bis- (N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide) sold by the company QUEST, N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide. of cetyl acid.

N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine described in patent application WO94 / 24097 can also be used.

The liposoluble UV filters that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from cinnamates such as Parsol MCX, dibenzoylmethanes such as Parsol 1789, benzophenones such as Uvinul M40, anthranilates and salicylates such as Homosalate, benzylydene camphers such as methylbenzylidenecamphor, benzalmalonates, triazines such as Uvinul T150, benzimidazoles, benzoxazoles, benzotriazoles, cyanoacrylates such as Uvinul N539.

As antioxidants and anti-free radical agents that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of fat-soluble ascorbyl compounds such as ascorbyl palmitates, t-butylhydroquinone, liposoluble flavonoids and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anti-dandruff agents chosen, for example, from: chlorhexidine, 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 1,3-dichloro-5,5-dimethylhydant 3-bromo 1-chloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin, N-chlorosuccinimide; derivatives of 1-hydroxy-2-pyridone such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone and 1-hydroxy-4, 6-dimethyl-2-pyridone; - trihalocarbamides; - triclosan; azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole b; allantoin, tars of coal or wood and their derivatives in particular, cade oil, undecylenic acid, allylamines such as terbinafine; or a mixture of these anti-dandruff agents. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more seborrhea regulating agents such as succinylchitosan.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more soothing agents such as azulene and glycyrrhetinic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The liposoluble vitamins that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from vitamin F, vitamin D and in particular vitamins D2, D3, D4 and vitamin E and its esters, such as acetate.

The composition according to the invention more particularly has a liposoluble active ingredient content (s) of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2.5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not contain a UVA or UVB solar filter.

The composition may also comprise one or more thickening polymers. Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which, introduced at 1% by weight in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution at 30% ethanol, and at pH = 7 or in an oil chosen from oil Vaseline, isopropyl myristate or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, provides a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 ° C. and a shear rate of 1 sec -1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like). The thickening polymers may be thickeners of the aqueous phase and / or of the fatty phase. The thickening polymers may be anionic or nonionic or amphoteric polymers, associative or not. As regards the non-associative thickening polymers, it is first of all pointed out that for the purposes of the present invention, the non-associative thickening polymers are thickening polymers not containing a C 10 -C 30 fatty chain. Thickeners of the aqueous phase: As thickening polymers of the aqueous phase, mention may be made of thickening polymers with sugar units. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula C n (H 2 O) n-1 or (CH 2 O) n which may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or dehydration. The sugar units which may be included in the composition of the thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucosidegalactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannosexylose, lactose, anhydroxide, actose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid. mannuronique.galactose sulfate anhydrogalactose sulfate The following may be mentioned as thickening polymers of the invention: - native gums such as: a) exudates from trees or shrubs including: gum arabic ((branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid). ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid). karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid) , galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid). tragacanth gum (or tragacanth) (galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose polymer) b) gums derived from algae including: Agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose). Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid), carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate) c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: guar (mannose and galactose polymer) - locust bean gum (mannose and galactose polymer) - fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer) - tamarind gum (galactose, xylose and glucose polymer) ) konjac gum (glucose polymer and mannose) d) microbial gums including: xanthan gum (glucose polymer, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid). gellan gum (partially acylated glucose polymer, rhamnose and glucuronic acid). scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer) e) plant extracts including:. cellulose (glucose polymer). starch (glucose polymer) These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of temperature. By way of chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to lead to polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses. The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with hydroxylalkyl groups of from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned by way of example. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. modified by hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie. The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are, for example, chosen from starches of maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and peas. The starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments. More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite); crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), hydroxyalkyl C1-C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phophorated compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) 2) or their mixtures (Am signifying starch). X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate. Diamidon phosphates or diamidon phosphate-rich compounds such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized hydroxypropyl diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) are preferably used. PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized cornstarch). A preferred starch is a starch which has undergone at least one chemical modification such as at least one esterification. According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds of the following formulas: ## STR1 ## wherein R 'R 1 CH 2 CH 2 COOM / St-O- (CH 2) -N CH 2 CH-COOM 1 R' R COOM R CH CH-COOM St-O- (CH 2) embedded image embedded image in which formula (I): ## STR5 ## wherein:

St-O represents a starch molecule, R, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R ', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a group -000H, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, R "represents a a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms These compounds are described in particular in US Patents 5,455,340 and 4,017,460, which are incorporated by reference, and the starch molecules can be obtained from any source. of starch, such as, in particular, maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat.The hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. starch is preferably from the potato. particularly the starches of formulas (II) or (III). 2-Chloroethylaminodipropionic acid-modified starches, that is to say the starches of formula (II) or (III) in which R, R ', R "and M represent a hydrogen atom, are more particularly used. and n is 2. The preferred amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamidodipropionate As previously mentioned, the cellulose derivatives may be in particular anionic, amphoteric or nonionic, among which are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates or phosphates, etc.), the organic cellulose esters (monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate-butyrates, cellulose acetate propionates or acetatetrimellitates ....) and the organic / inorganic cellulose mixed esters such as the acetate-butyrate-sulphates and the acetate-propionatesulfates of cellulose. Among the cellulose ether esters, there may be mentioned hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates. Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR proposed by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose celluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts. Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which may be used, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their crosslinked copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide alone or in mixtures.

A first family of suitable nonassociative thickening polymers is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA.

The non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON.

The non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from cross-linked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

With regard to these homopolymers and copolymers, which may be partially or completely neutralized, mention may be made of polymers comprising from 90 to 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, of units of formula (j) below: c2 /

embedded image in which X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, or a proton.

More particularly, the cations are chosen from alkali metals (such as sodium, potassium), ammonium ions substituted or not by one to three identical or different alkyl radicals, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally carrying at least a hydroxyl radical, the cations derived from N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine. Preferably, the cation is an ammonium or sodium ion.

In addition, the polymer comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer, of crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two ethylenic unsaturation (carbon-carbon double bond). The crosslinking monomers having at least two ethylenic unsaturations are chosen for example from diallyl ether, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, allyl (meth) acrylate, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyl oxethanoyl, tetra- or diethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, triallylamine, tetraallylethylenediamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylene bis (meth) acrylamide or divinylbenzene, allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as the allyl esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures thereof. of these compounds. For more details on these polymers, reference may be made to EP 815828. Among the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, partially or totally neutralized, mention may be made in particular the product described in Example 1 of EP 503 853 and reference can be made to this document with respect to these polymers.

The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide. As examples of homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, mention may be made of the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NEW or the PAS 5193 product sold by HOECHST. In particular, documents FR 2 416 723, US 2798053 and US 2923692 may be referred to for the description and preparation of such compounds.

Among the thickening agents, one can also thickeners based on associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of nonionic, anionic or amphoteric nature. It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone. Hydrophobic group is understood to mean a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of: - (I) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic monomer unsaturated ethylenic, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the following monomer of formula (V): CH2 = CR 'CH2O Bn R (V)

in which R 'denotes H or CH3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is nil or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. A more particularly preferred unit of formula (V) is a unit in which R 'denotes H, n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl (C18) radical.

Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479. Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 are particularly preferred according to the invention. 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5 to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth) acrylates, 2 to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (V), and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, dimethacrylate of (poly) ethylene glycol, and methylene-bisacrylamide.

Among these, the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company CIBA under the trade names SALCARE, are particularly preferred. SC80 and SALCARE SC90 which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10).

(II) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.

Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (VI): ## STR2 ## in which R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5, that is to say, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (VII): H 2 C = C 1 -C OR 3 (VII) wherein R 2 is H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (ie acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R 3 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, and preferably C12-C22 alkyl (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising : essentially acrylic acid, an ester of formula (VII) described above and in which R 2 denotes H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide. Among this type of anionic associative polymers, use will more particularly be made of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate ( hydrophobic pattern), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above. Among said polymers above, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1, and the product sold by the company, are particularly preferred according to the present invention. SEPPIC company under the name COATEX SX. Mention may also be made of polymers which, in addition to the monomers of formula (VI) and of formula (VII), contain one or more other monomers. This additional monomer can be in particular a vinyllactam and in particular vinylpyrrolidone. As an example of a polymer, mention may be made of the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP. (III) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / α-olefin C30-C38 / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. (IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising: (a) from about 20% to 70% by weight of a α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) from about 20 to 80% by weight of an unsaturated monomer a, (non-surfactant, 3-monoethylenic other than (a), (c) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a surfactant monohydric with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a terpolymer methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate d ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (400E) in 25% aqueous dispersion (V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol. these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and a C 1 -C 4 alcohol ester. By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymer.

VI) Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C 1 -C 22) alkyl (meth) acids. acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulphonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More preferably, the (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid , 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms. More particularly, use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms.

The polymers of this family may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 nmonoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application W000 / 31154 (making part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their (3) alkyl substituted derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.

The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation. These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers which do not comprise a fatty chain, such as (meth) acrylic acids, their substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, the (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof. These copolymers are described in particular in the patent application EP-A-750899, the patent US 5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: - Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. - Miscellanous formation of random copolymers of 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704;

  Solution properties of miscellence formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: known effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, VoI.16, No. 12, 5324-5332;

Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40 (2), 220-221.

The hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula (VIII): embedded image in which R 1 and R 3, identical to one another or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical comprising at least 8 and more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100. The radical R2 is preferably chosen from linear C8-C18 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl). , n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), branched or cyclic (for example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)); perfluorinated C 6 -C 18 alkyl radicals (for example the group of formula (CH 2) 2 (CF 2) 9-CF 3); the cholesteryl radical (C27) or a cholesteryl ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, the linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the nodecyl radical are more particularly preferred.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (VIII) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x> 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 3 to 100 and more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 87 to 25. (VIII) Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or otherwise, containing

15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units relative to

polymer, such as those described in EP-A750 899;

terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n- (C6-C1S) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US Patent 5089578.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and ndodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

More particularly, copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of the following formula (IX): ## STR2 ## in which X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline metal cation or earthy or ammonium ion,

and of units of formula (X) below:

ùCH, c (X) oC [CH-CH; Wherein x is an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 505 to 80, and

more preferably from 87 to 25; R1 has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (I) and R4 denotes a linear or branched C6-C22 and more preferably C12-C18.C10-C22 alkyl. Particularly preferred polymers are those where x = 25, R1 is methyl and R4 is n-dodecyl; they are described in the articles of Morishima mentioned above. The molar concentration in% of the units of formula (IX) and of units of formula (X) will vary according to the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties of the formulation sought. It preferably varies from 70 to 99 mol% of AMPS units and from 1 to 30 mol% of units of formula (X) relative to the copolymer and more particularly from 70 to 90 mol% of AMPS units and from 10 to 90 mol% of units of at 30 mol% of units of formula (X).

The polymers for which X + denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the number, are preferred. total moles of monomers.

The preferred amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention comprise, or are prepared by copolymerizing at least one monomer of formula (XVI) or (XVII): ## STR2 ## Wherein R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a methyl radical, R 3, R 4 and R 5, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl radical; linear or branched having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5, A- is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid, such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide; 2) at least one monomer of the formula (XVIII) wherein R 6 and R 7, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; And 3) at least one monomer of formula (XIX): ## STR5 ## wherein R 6 and R 7, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen atom or a hydrogen atom; nitrogen and R8 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one of the monomers of formula (XVI), (XVII) or (XIX) comprising at least one fatty chain.

The monomers of formula (XVI) and (XVII) are preferably chosen from the group consisting of: dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, dimethylaminopropyl acrylamide, these monomers being optionally quaternized, for example by a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulphate. More particularly, the monomer of formula (XVI) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. The monomers of formula (XVIII) of the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (XVIII) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (XIX) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. The monomers constituting the amphoteric fatty-chain polymers of the invention are preferably already neutralized and / or quaternized.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges is preferably equal to approximately 1. The amphoteric associative polymers of this family preferably comprise from 1 to 10 mol% of the monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (XVI), (XVII ) or (XIX), and preferably from 1.5 to 6 mol%.

The amphoteric associative polymers of this family may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO9844012.

Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, acrylic acid / (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers are preferred.

The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers, examples of which may be mentioned: the products ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP products ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P. (b) copolymers of methacrylates or of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the denomination ANTIL 208. (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of mostly polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (e) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX compounds proposed by the company SUD-20 CHEMIE. (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyls, arylalkyls, alkylaryls or mixtures thereof, in which the alkyl groups are in C8-and in particular: the nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by AQUALON * nonoxynylhydroxyethylcellulose nonionic such as the product AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by the company AMERCHOL; nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL; (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE;

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds. By way of examples of nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain which can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205 sold by the company Rheox or else the Rheolates 208, 204 or 212, as well as the Acrysol RM 184.

Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210 with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212 with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE 255, RHEOLATE 278 and RHEOLATE 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas.

The polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993). More particularly still it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) alcohol stearyl or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46 and Aculyn 44. Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene. bis (4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (810/0); ACULYN 448 is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture (39%). %) and water (26%)]. Even more preferentially, the aqueous phase thickening polymer or polymers of the invention are chosen from associative or non-associative sugar-containing polymers and associative or non-associative acrylic or methacrylic anionic polymers, associative or non-associative polyurethanes. Fatty phase thickeners.

Preferably, the polymers structuring the oily phase via physical interactions are chosen from polyamides, silicone polyamides, mono- or poly-alkyl esters of saccharide or polysaccharide, amide derivatives of N-acylated amino acids, copolymers comprising a sequence alkylene or styrene, these copolymers may be di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial-block polymers also called star copolymers, or even comb polymers.

1) Polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone Again, they are polymers which are soluble or dispersible in the oil or oily phase by heating above their melting point pF. These polymers are especially block copolymers consisting of at least 2 sequences of different chemical nature, one of which is crystallizable. As polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned: i). Polymers defined in US-A-5,156,911; ii). Block copolymers of olefin or cycloolefin with a crystallizable chain, such as those resulting from the sequential polymerization of: cyclobutene, cyclohexene, cyclooctene, norbornene (i.e., bicyclo (2,2,1) heptene 2), 5-methylnorbornene, 5-ethylnorbornene, 5,6-dimethylnorbornene, 5,5,6-trimethyl norbornene, 5-ethylidene-norbornene, 5-phenylnorbornene, 5-benzylnorbornene, 5-vinylnorbornene, 1,4,5,8-dimethano 1,2,3,4,4a, 5,8a-octahydronaphthalene, dicyclopentadiene, and mixtures thereof; with ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, 3-methyl-1-butene, 1-hexene, 4-methyl-1-pentene, 1-octene, 1-decene, eicosene or their mixtures. These block copolymers may be in particular (ethylene / norbornene) block copolymers and block terpolymers (ethylene / propylene / ethylidene norbornene). Those resulting from the block copolymerization of at least 2 α-olefins can also be used. C2-C16 and better still C2-C12, such as those mentioned above and in particular the block bipolymers of ethylene and 1-octene. The copolymers having at least one crystallizable block, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may, in addition, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which have both at room temperature, a crystallizable block and an amorphous sequence both hydrophobic and lipophilic distributed sequentially; for example, polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks: crystallizable sequence by nature: a) polyester such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), b) polyolefin such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes. - Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefins) such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene). As examples of such crystallizable block and amorphous block copolymers, mention may be made of: a) poly (ε-caprolactone) -b-poly (butadiene) block copolymers, preferably used hydrogenated, such as those described in the article " Melting behavior of poly (S-caprolactone) -block-polybutadiene copolymers of S. Nojima, Macromolecules, 32, 3727-3734 (1999). b) sequenced or multiblocked poly (butylene terephthalate) -b-poly (isoprene) block copolymers, cited in the article "Study of morphological and mechanical properties of PP / PBT" by B. Boutevin et al., Polymer Bulletin, 34 117-123 (1995). c) the poly (ethylene) -b-copoly (ethylene / propylene) block copolymers cited in the papers "Morphology of semi-crystalline block copolymers of ethylene- (ethylene-alt-propylene)" by P. Rangarajan et al., Macromolecules , 26, 4640-4645 (1993), and "Polymer agregates with crystalline cores: the poly (ethylene) -poly (ethylene-propylene) system", P. Richter et al., Macromolecules, 30, 1053-1068 (1997). . d) the block copolymers poly (ethylene) -b-poly (ethylethylene) cited in the general article "Crystallization in block copolymers" of I.W. Hamley, Advances in Polymer Science, Vol 148, 113-137 (1999).

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the context of the invention may be uncrosslinked or partially crosslinked, provided that the degree of crosslinking does not hinder their dissolution or dispersion in the liquid oily phase by heating above their melting point. . It may then be a chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during the polymerization.

It may also be a physical crosslinking which may then be due either to the establishment of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer, for example the dipolar interactions between carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being weak. amount and carried by the polymer backbone; or at a phase separation between the crystallizable blocks and the amorphous blocks carried by the polymer.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers that are suitable for the invention are non-crosslinked. As a particular example of semi-crystalline polymer that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer products from Landec, described in the IntelimerO polymers brochure. These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains and present the monomer as defined in formula X above. Mention may in particular be made of the IP22 Landec, having a melting temperature pF of 56 ° C., which is a viscous product at room temperature, impermeable, non-sticky.

It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers described in Examples 3, 4, 5, 7, 9 of US Pat. No. 5,156,911, resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid and of C5 to C16 alkyl (meth) acrylate. as those resulting from the copolymerization: acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate and isodecylacrylate in a 1/16/3 ratio of acrylic acid and pentadecylacrylate in a 1/19 ratio of acrylic acid, hexadecylacrylate, ethyl acrylate in a ratio of 2.5: 76.5: 20, acrylic acid, hexadecyl acrylate and methyl acrylate in a ratio of 5: 85: 10, acrylic acid, octadecyl methacrylate in a ratio of 2.5 / 97.5. It is also possible to use the Structure O polymer marketed by National Starch, such as that described in US Pat. No. 5,736,125, of pH 44 ° C., as well as semi-crystalline crystalline pendant chain polymers containing fluorinated groups such as described in Examples 1, 4, 6, 7 and 8 of WO-A-01/19333. It is also possible to use the semi-crystalline polymers obtained by copolymerization of stearyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP or by copolymerization of behenyl acrylate and acrylic acid or NVP, as described in document US-A-5,519,063 or EP-A-0 550 745. According to a particular variant embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymers that are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular alkylated acrylates, among which may be mentioned the copolymers of LANDEC - Doresco IPA 13-1: stearyl poly acrylate, mp 49 ° C and MW 145,000; Doresco IPA 13-3: polyacrylate / methacrylic acid, mp 65 ° C and MW 114,000; Doresco IPA 13-4: polyacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone, mp 44 ° C. and MW 387,000; Doresco IPA13-5: polyacrylate / hydroxyethyl methacrylate, mp 47 ° C and MW 397600; Doresco IPA 13-6: behenyl polyacrylate, mp 66 ° C. 2) Non-silicone polyamides The particular polyamides used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably those described in US-A-5,783,657 of the company UNION CAMP. The part of US-A-5,783,657 devoted to these polymers is incorporated by reference. Each of these polyamides particularly satisfies the following formula: ## STR1 ## wherein n denotes an integer number of amide units such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; R 1 is at each occurrence independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and especially 4 to 24 carbon atoms; R2 is independently at each occurrence a C4-C55 hydrocarbon group provided that at least 50% of the R2 groups represent a C30-C55 hydrocarbon group; R3 independently represents an organic group having at least 2 carbon atoms, hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more oxygen or nitrogen atoms; and R4 represents at each occurrence independently a hydrogen atom, a C1-C10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R3 or another R4 such that the nitrogen atom to which are bonded both R3 and R4 is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4-N-R3, with at least 50% of R4 representing a hydrogen atom. In particular, the ester groups of this polyamide represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and at best from 20 to 35%. In addition, n advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 10, and more preferably from 1 to 5 inclusive. Preferably, R 1 is a C 12 -C 22 alkyl group and preferably a C 16 -C 22 alkyl group. Advantageously, R2 can be a C10-C42 hydrocarbon (alkylene) group. Preferably at least 50% and more preferably at least 75% of the R2 are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R 2 are C 4 to C 19 and preferably C 4 to C 12 hydrogenated groups. Preferably, R3 represents a C2-C36 hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylene group and R4 represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a C2 to C12 hydrocarbon group. The hydrocarbon groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups can be linear or branched groups, saturated or not. The thickening of the liquid fatty phase can be obtained using one or more polyamides defined above. In general, these polyamides are in the form of mixtures, these mixtures may also contain a synthetic product corresponding to a polyamide as defined above with n being 0, that is to say a diester. As structuring polyamide that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than two carbonyl groups and two amine groups), carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being fused by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially those marketed under the Versamid brand by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp., under the name Onamid, notably Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6,000 to 9,000. more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-3,645,705 and US-A-3,148,125. More especially, Versamid 30 or 744. The polyamides sold or manufactured by the company Arizona under the Uni-Rez references (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) can also be used. ) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-5500209. By way of example of structuring polyamides that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of the commercial products sold or manufactured by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold respectively in the form of a gel. 80% (active ingredient) and 100% (active ingredient) in a mineral oil. They have a softening point of 88 to 105 ° C. These commercial products are a copolymer mixture of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with an average molecular weight of about 6000. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid terminations by cetyl alcohol. , stearyl or mixtures thereof (also called cetylstearyl alcohol). 3) Silicone Polyamides Polymers (homopolymers or copolymers) of silicone polyamide type, suitable for the implementation of the invention, have an average molecular mass in the range of 500 to 500,000, and possess at least one group comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group comprising from 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the group chain or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester and amide groups, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarabamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino, and combinations thereof, provided that at least one of these groups is different from an ester group, the polymer being solid at room temperature and soluble in the oily phase at a temperature ranging from 25 to 120 ° C. The polymers of silicone polyamide type suitable for the implementation of the invention, and used as structuring agent for the oil, may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being arranged in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being arranged on grafts or branches. The polymers of the silicone polyamide type comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions in the polymer chain may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following first formula: R 'Si o Si XGYGXR' R 'n in which: 1. R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, - C 6 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms; 2. The X, which may be identical or different, represents a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms; 3. Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 group, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups C3, C1-C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1-C6-alkyl, or 4. Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R5 T in which: - T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R5 represents a C1 to C4 alkyl group. C50, linear or branched, or a polyorganosiloxane hain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another chain of the polymer, 5. the G, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups selected from: COOC; N (R) COO 6 6 6 CN (R) N (R) SO SC), N (R) ON (R) CO, OCN (R) N (R) COOOCN (R) N (R) CN (R) ) and N (R`) CN (R) SN (R) CCN (R), NHCNOI OO NH NI! C NH C NII NI! Wherein R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, S and 6. n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, in particular from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200. According to one variant embodiment, 80% of the R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 of the polymer may be chosen in particular from methyl groups. ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl. According to another variant embodiment, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. In particular, Y may represent a group chosen from: a) linear C1 to C20 alkylene groups, especially C1 to C10; (b) branched alkylene groups which may have unconjugated rings and unsaturations of C30 to C56; c) C5-C6 cycloalkylene groups; d) phenylene groups optionally substituted with one or more C1-C40 alkyl groups; e) C1 to C20 alkylene groups having from 1 to 5 amide groups; f) C1 to C20 alkylene groups having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkane, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C1 to C6 alkylamines; g) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula: R R ~ R i Si O Si O Si T

Wherein R1, R2, R3 and R4, T and m are as defined above; and h) polyorganosiloxane chains of formula: ## STR1 ## The polyorganosiloxanes of the second family may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula: ## STR1 ## It would be a good idea to delete the (II) in this formula. in which: R1 and R3, which are identical or different, are as defined above for the preceding formula; - R7 represents a group as defined above for R1 and R3, or represents the group of formula -XG-R9 in which X and G are as defined above for the above formula and R9 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1 to C50 saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or a plurality of hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups; - R8 represents the group of formula -X-G-R9 in which X, G and R9 are as defined above; m1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 998; and m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500. According to the invention, the silicone polyamide used as structuring agent can be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical motifs, in particular patterns according to the formulas defined previously. According to the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polyamide consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units according to the first preceding formula, that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 , X, G, Y, m and n are different in one of the patterns. The copolymer may also be formed of several units according to the second preceding formula, in which at least one of R 1, R 3, R 7, R 8, m 1 and m 2 is different in at least one of the units. It is also possible to use a copolymer comprising at least one unit according to the first formula and at least one unit according to the second formula, the units according to the first formula and the units according to the second formula possibly being identical to or different from one another. According to one variant of the invention, it is also possible to use a silicone polyamide of copolymer type comprising in addition at least one hydrocarbon unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide, sulfonamide, carbamate and thiocarbamate groups, urea, thiourea and their combinations. These copolymers may be block copolymers, block copolymers or graft copolymers.

According to an alternative embodiment, the groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions are amide groups of formula -C (O) NH- and -HN-C (O) -. In this case, the gelling agent may be, for example, a polymer comprising at least one unit according to the third or fourth formula: R 2 CX SiO Si XC NH y NH OR 'R 4 O In or NH X SiO Si X In which R1, R2, R3, R4, X, Y, m and n are as defined above. In the polyamides according to the third and fourth formulas previously disclosed: m is in particular in the range from 1 to 700, even from 15 to 500 and more preferably from 15 to 45, and in particular in the range of 1 to 15; at 500, in particular from 1 to 100 and more preferably from 4 to 25, X is in particular a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and Y is in particular a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations having 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 atoms of carbon. In the third and fourth formulas described above, the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements: 1) 1 to 5 amide groups, urea or carbamate, 2) a cycloalkyl group at C5 or C6, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1 to C3 alkyl groups. In the third and fourth formulas set forth above, the alkylene groups may also be substituted by at least one member selected from the group consisting of: R 'mnn - a hydroxy group, C40, - a C3 to C8 cycloalkyl group, - a to three C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups; a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups,

a C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl group, and

a C1 to C6 aminoalkyl group. In the third and fourth formulas described above, Y may also represent: (CH) 553 T where R5 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula: (CH), R "o (Ci ~) b or (CH) in which a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10, and R10 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R1, R2, R3, R4 In the third and fourth formulas previously disclosed, R1, R2, R3, R4 represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, in particular a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 group. or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups As previously discussed, the polymer may also comprise units according to the third or fourth formula previously disclosed which are identical or different. , the polymer can be a pol silicone yamide containing a plurality of units according to the third or fourth formula described above of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to the following fifth formula: R '-CIO) ùX + -S0 SiùXùqO) -NI-- YN-IECtO) - - R in which X, Y, n, R 1 to R 4 have the meanings given above, m 1 and m 2 which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1000. and p is an integer from 2 to 300. In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the copolymer may satisfy the sixth formula: ## STR5 ## in which R 1 to R 4, X, Y, m 1, m 2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different from Y, but is selected from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the silicone gelling polyamide may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

In this case, the copolymer may comprise at least one unit according to the following seventh formula: ## STR2 ## in which: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## wherein X 1 and X 2, which are identical or different, have the same meaning as in the formula (I); given for X in the first preceding formula, n is as defined in the first preceding formula, Y and T are as defined in the first preceding formula, R11 to R18 are groups selected from the same group as R1 to R4 , ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500. In the seventh formula previously discussed, in particular: - p is in the range of 1 to 25 more preferably from 1 to 7, - R 11 to R 18 are methyl groups, - T corresponds to one of the following formulas: R 9 R 9 R 11 '; in which R 19 is a hydrogen atom or a group selected from the groups defined for R 1 to R 4, and R 20, R 21 and R 22 are, independently, alkylene groups, linear or branched, T is in particular preferably in the formula: R = 20 N R - 10 with in particular R20, R21 and R22 representing -CH2-CH2-, - m1 and m2 are in the range of 15 to 500, or even 15 at 45, - X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and - Y is -CH2-. These grafted silicone-type polyamides according to the seventh formula set forth above may be copolymerized with silicone polyamides according to the second formula to form block copolymers, alternating copolymers or random copolymers. The percentage by weight of silicone units grafted according to the seventh formula in the copolymer may range from 0.5 to 30% by weight. According to one embodiment, the siloxane units may be in the backbone or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In pendant or graft chains, the siloxane units may occur individually or in segments. According to one embodiment of the invention, the polyamides based on siloxanes can in particular be: polyamides according to the third formula previously set forth where m is from 15 to 50; Mixtures of two or more polyamides in which at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 15 to 50 and at least one polyamide has a value of m in the range of 30 to 50; polymers according to the fifth formula described above with ml selected in the range of 15 to 50 and m2 selected in the range of 30 to 500 with the portion corresponding to m1 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide and the corresponding part m2 representing 1 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the polyamide; mixtures of polyamide according to the third formula described previously combining: 1) 80 to 99% by weight of a polyamide where n is 2 to 10, in particular 3 to 6, and 2) 1 to 20% of a polyamide wherein n is in the range of 5 to 500, in particular 6 to 100; polyamides corresponding to the sixth formula previously set forth, wherein at least one of Y and Y1 contains at least one hydroxyl substituent. polyamides according to the third formula synthesized with at least a portion of an activated diacid (chloride, dianhydride or diacid diester) instead of the diacid; polyamides according to the third formula wherein X represents - (CH 2) 3 or - (CH 2) 10; and polyamides according to the third formula wherein the polyamides are terminated by a monofunctional chain selected from the group consisting of monofunctional amines, monofunctional acids, monofunctional alcohols, including fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty amines, such as by for example octylamine, octanol, stearic acid and stearyl alcohol. According to one embodiment of the invention, the ends of the chains of the polymer may be terminated by: a C1 to C50 alkyl ester group by introducing, during synthesis, a C1 to C50 monoalcohol, an amide group; C1 to C50 alkyl group with a monoacid as a stopper if the silicone is alpha, omega-diamine, or a monoamine if the silicone is alpha, omega -diocarboxylic acid.

According to another embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units according to the third or fourth formula and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

Silicone-containing polyamide gelling agents can be produced by silyl amidation of polyamides based on fatty acid dimer. This approach involves the reaction of free acid sites existing on a polyamide as terminal sites, with oligosiloxane monoamines and / or oligosiloxanes diamines (amidation reaction), or alternatively with oligosiloxane alcohols or oligosiloxane diols (esterification reaction). . The esterification reaction requires the presence of acid catalysts as known in the art. It is desirable that the polyamide having free acid sites, used for the amidation or esterification reaction, have a relatively high number of acid termini (e.g., polyamides having high acid numbers, e.g. 20).

For amidation of the free acid sites of the hydrocarbon polyamides, diamine siloxanes with 1 to 300, more preferably 2 to 50, and more preferably 2, 6, 9, 5, 12, 13, 5, 23 or 31 siloxane groups, may be used. be used for the reaction with hydrocarbon polyamides based on fatty acid dimers. Diamine siloxanes having 13.5 siloxane groups are preferred and the best results are obtained with siloxane diamine having 13.5 siloxane groups and polyamides containing high indices of carboxylic acid end groups. The reactions can be carried out in xylene to extract the water produced from the solution by azeotropic distillation, or at higher temperatures (around 180 to 200 ° C) without solvent. Typically, amidation efficiency and reaction rates decrease when the siloxane diamine is longer, i.e., when the number of siloxane groups is higher. Free amine sites can be blocked after the initial amidation reaction of diaminosiloxanes by reacting them with either an acidic siloxane or an organic acid such as benzoic acid.

For the esterification of the free acid sites on the polyamides, this can be carried out in boiling xylene with about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the reactants, of para-toluenesulphonic acid as catalyst. These reactions carried out on the terminal carboxylic acid groups of the polyamide lead to the incorporation of silicone units only at the ends of the polymer chain. By way of example, mention will be made of DC2-8178 Gellant and DC2-8179 Gellant from Dow Corning.

4) The mono- or polyalkyl esters of saccharide or polysaccharide Among the mono- or polyalkyl esters of saccharide or of polysaccharide suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may be made of the alkyl or polyalkyl esters of dextrin or of inulin. It may be in particular a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid and in particular having the following formula: CH2OR1 O OR, o

Wherein n is an integer ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50; the radicals R1, R2 and R3, which are identical or different, are chosen from 1 hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, in particular from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, even 15, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen.

In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which R is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, with the proviso that at least two of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 are identical and different from hydrogen. All of the radicals R1, R2 and R3 may include an acyl group (R-CO) identical or different, and in particular identical. In particular, n previously exposed advantageously varies from 25 to 50, in particular is equal to 38 in the general formula of the saccharide ester that can be used in the present invention. In particular, when the radicals R 1, R 2 and / or R 3, which are identical or different, represent an acyl group (R-CO), these may be chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic and behenic radicals. isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic,

arachidonic, stearic, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as dextrin ester and fatty acid (s). This can be used alone or mixed with other esters. Advantageously, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 on the basis of a glucose unit, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably from 2 to 2. 5. The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10,000 to 150,000, especially from 12,000 to 100,000 and even from 15,000 to 80,000. Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitates are commercially available under the name RHEOPEARL TL or RHEOPEARL KL from Chiba Flour. 5) amide derivatives of N-acylated amino acids isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepine, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, amides of N-acylamino acids usable are for example the diamides of the combination of an N-acylamine acid with amines comprising from 1 to 22 atoms These are, for example, alkyl glutamic acid amide derivatives such as laurylglutamic acid dibutylamide, sold by Ajinomoto under the name Gelling agent GP-1 or else dibutylamide of 2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid marketed by Ajinomoto under the name of e Gelling agent GA-01. 6) Copolymers Comprising an Alkylene or Styrene Sequence

The copolymers may have a comb or block structure of di-block, tri-block, multi-block and / or radial or star-shaped type and comprise at least two thermodynamically incompatible segments. The structuring agent may comprise, for example, a styrene segment block as described in EP 0 497 144, WO98 / 42298, US 6,225,690, US 6,174,968, US 6,225,390, an ethylene / butylene segment, a ethylene / propylene segment as described in US 6,225,690, US 6,174,968, US 6,225,390, a butadiene segment, an isoprene segment, a polyvinyl segment such as, for example, alkyl poly (meth) acrylate, or polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl acetate, a silicone segment as described in US 5,468,477 and US 5,725,882 or a combination of these segments. A diblock copolymer is usually defined as A-B in which a hard segment (A) is followed by a soft segment (B). A tri-block copolymer is usually defined as A-B-A or as a ratio of a hard segment, a soft segment, and a hard segment. A multi-block or radial or star-shaped copolymer may comprise any type of combination of hard segments and soft segments, provided that the characteristics of the hard segments and the soft segments are retained. By way of example of hard segments of block copolymer, mention may be made of styrene, and by way of example of flexible block copolymer segments, mention may be made of ethylene, propylene, butylene, and a combination of these.

The triblock copolymers, and in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, suitable for the implementation of the invention may be those sold under the reference LUVITOL HSB by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of tri-block copolymers of polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, such as those sold under the reference KRATON by the company Shell Chemical Co., or under the reference GELLED PERMETHYL 99 A by the company PENRECO. Such triblock copolymers are particularly preferred according to the invention. By way of example, for example, block copolymers which may be suitable for the implementation of the present invention, mention may also be made of the block copolymers sold under the reference VERSAGEL by the company PENRECO, those marketed under the reference KRATON by the company SHELL and those marketed under the reference GEL BASE by BROOKS INDUSTRIES.

Among the thickening polymers for the fatty phase, the polymers bearing in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block are preferred.

The thickening polymers for aqueous phase or fatty phase can be used alone or in mixtures in all proportions.

Preferably the thickening polymer or polymers are chosen from aqueous phase thickening polymers.

The thickening polymer (s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for the coloration of the dogs, such as anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition may comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite or organomodified bentonite. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (heme edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. When present or when they are present, the mineral thickening agent or agents represent from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The cosmetically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention is a medium comprising at least water and optionally one or more organic solvents. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched, preferably saturated monoalcohols or diols, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; glycerol; polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

The solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition, and preferably between 5 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the dyeing composition. Preferably, the composition of the invention contains water. Even more preferably the water concentration can range from 10 to 70%, better from 20 to 55% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may be in various forms, such as in the form of liquids, creams, gels, or in any other form that is suitable for treating keratin materials, and in particular human hair.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a gel or a cream.

The pH of the composition according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 12, preferably between 4 and 11 and even more preferably between 5 and 11 inclusive. It can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used for dyeing keratin fibers or else using conventional buffer systems. The alkaline agents are for example ammonia, mineral bases such as sodium hydroxide, alkaline carbonates, organic bases such as alkanolamines including monoethanolamine.

Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, acid lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.

The composition of the invention may be obtained by mixing at least two different compositions, or even three or possibly more than three different compositions. One or more of the compositions leading by mixing to the composition of the invention may be anhydrous. Note that the composition according to the invention can be prepared just before its application to human keratin fibers.

Thus, the composition according to the invention can be obtained by mixing a first composition comprising one or more fatty substances, with a second composition comprising one or more lipophilic beneficial agents.

The ingredients of the aforementioned compositions and their contents are determined according to the characteristics detailed previously for the final composition according to the invention.

The treatment method according to the invention therefore consists in applying the composition according to the invention to human dry or wet keratin materials. The composition is then left in place for a period usually ranging from one minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratin materials are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

Preferably, the keratin materials are human hair.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

Example 1

The following composition is prepared.

Vaseline oil 30% Ascorbyl palmitate 2% Tween 20 8% Salcare SC 95 2% Preservatives, perfume qs Demineralized water qs 100%

This composition is applied on natural brown hair. After 15 minutes of break and rinse, the hair is dried.

There is a better deposit of the antioxidant and a better protection effectiveness.

Example 2. Vaseline oil 30% Vitamin F 0.5% Tween 20 8% Merquat 100 2% Preservatives, perfume qs Demineralized water qs 100% This composition is applied to natural chestnut hair. After 15 minutes of break and rinse, the hair is dried. There is a better deposit of the vitamin and a better protection effectiveness.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition for treating human keratin materials, non-coloring and non-oxidizing, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (a) at least 25% by weight of one or more fatty substances (b) one or more surfactants selected from nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; (c) one or more non-filtering cationic species (d) one or more liposoluble beneficial agents different from the fatty substances a). 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids. fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. 3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds and preferably liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty substance is selected liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids and / or liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content ranges from 25 to 80% by weight, preferably from 25 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight. relative to the weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liposoluble beneficial agent has a log P greater than 0 and preferably greater than 1. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liposoluble beneficial agent is chosen from the following compounds, alone or as mixtures: 40 to ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, liposoluble UV filters antioxidants and liposoluble anti-free radical agents, • liposoluble anti-dandruff agents, • liposoluble seboreal regulatory agents, fat-soluble vitamins. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of active (s) fat soluble (s) is between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 2.5%. by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic species is a cationic surfactant or a cationic polymer, preferably a cationic polymer. 15 10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic surfactant is chosen from: (i) the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) below: + R1 R. . Wherein X 1 is an anion and (1) the radicals R 1 to R 3, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or an aryl radical or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical being optionally carrying an alkoxy, alkylamide group, R4 denotes a linear or branched C16-C30 alkyl radical; or (2) the radicals R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, or a radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, the alkyl radical optionally carrying a C1-C4 alkoxy, alkylamide or hydroxyalkyl group; R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C12-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, said radical optionally comprising at least one ester or amide function; (ii) the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolium of the following formula (III): CH 2 -CH, -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 X -R 7 wherein R 5 represents an alkenyl or C 12 -C 30 alkyl radical X-R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or C12-C30 alkyl radical, R1 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X is an anion; (iii) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (IV): embedded image wherein R 9 denotes a C 12 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13, R 11, R 11, R 12, R 13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and X is an anion; (iv) the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function of the following formula (V): ## STR5 ## wherein R 2 is C 2 -C (C 2 H 2 O); R15 (V) wherein: R15 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C2-C6 dihydroxyalkyl; R16 is chosen from the radical R19-CO-, a radical R20 alkyl or alkenyl C1-C22 linear or branched, a hydrogen atom; R18 is chosen from the radical R21-CO-, an R22 alkyl or alkenyl radical; linear or branched C1-C6, a hydrogen atom, • R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl or alkenyl radicals; • n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; • x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10; • X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and that when z is 0 then R16 is R22; (v) or mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from the following polymers or their mixtures: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV) below: R3 R3 R3 -CH2 o R3 -C --- CH2 O-O = o O NH (I) A (II) A (III) ) Wherein R 3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 6 -C 6 alkyl group or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C16 alkyl group or a benzyl radical; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; (2) cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups; (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer; (4) non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides; (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers; (6) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; (7) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated C 3 -C 8 aliphatic dicarboxylic acids; (8) cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): (CH 2) k / (CH 2) k - (CH2) t-C9C (R9) -CH2- - (CH2) t-CR9C (R9) -CH2-HC2CH2H2CCH2N + -Y (VI) NR7R6R7 where k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R 1 and R 8, independently of each other, denote a C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group or an amidoalkyl group whose alkyl is C 1 -C 4; R 1 and R 8 may also designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group; Y- is an organic or mineral anion; (9) The quaternary diammonium polymer containing recurring units of the formula: ## STR2 ## in which: Rt0, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic radicals , alicyclic, or arylaliphatic C1-C20 or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals whose alkyl radical is C1-C4, or R10, R11, R12 and R13, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R10, R11, R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R14-D group or -CO-NHR14-D wherein R14 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent linear or branched, C2-C20 polymethylenic groups, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen atoms, of sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, Rt0 and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a - (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which n is between 1 and 100; and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z is - (CH2-CH2-O) x-CH2-CH2-; - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer (V) of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number of 1 at 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a remainder of bis-secondary diamine; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. (10) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of recurring units of formula (IX): ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## where ## STR2 ## In which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D can be zero or can represent a group - (CH 2) r CO-- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7. X- is an anion; (11) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (12) polylysines, (13) polyethyleneimines, (14) partially hydrolyzed polyvinylformamides. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of the cationic species ranges from 0.05 to 15%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants in the composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight. by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 14. Process for treating human keratin materials, characterized in that the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied. 15. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the keratin materials are human hair.