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WO2010112734A1 - Cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the application of a composition comprising a cationic polymer followed by the application of a composition comprising a zwitterionic surfactant - Google Patents

Cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the application of a composition comprising a cationic polymer followed by the application of a composition comprising a zwitterionic surfactant

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Publication number
WO2010112734A1
WO2010112734A1 PCT/FR2010/050548 FR2010050548W WO2010112734A1 WO 2010112734 A1 WO2010112734 A1 WO 2010112734A1 FR 2010050548 W FR2010050548 W FR 2010050548W WO 2010112734 A1 WO2010112734 A1 WO 2010112734A1
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composition
alkyl
group
polymers
preferably
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PCT/FR2010/050548
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French (fr)
Inventor
Estelle Mathonneau
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toilet preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILET PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL, OR TOILET PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Abstract

The present application relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres, and more particularly the hair, characterized in that it comprises at least the following two steps: a first step of applying to the keratin fibres a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers, and then a second step of applying to said keratin fibres a composition containing one or more zwitterionic surfactant(s) comprising a fatty chain or fatty chains, the zwitterionic surfactant(s) being such that at least 50% by weight thereof have at least one fatty chain containing a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.

Description

PROCESS FOR HAIR TREATMENT WITH COSMETIC APPLICATION COMPOSITION

HAVING CATIONIC POLYMER THEN THE APPLICATION OF A COMPOSITION CONTAINING A SURFACTANT ZWITTERIONIC

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, comprising the successive application of at least one cationic polymer and at least one zwitterionic surfactant.

In the field of hair cosmetics there is still a need to improve the performance of existing compositions and treatments. Searches are performed continuously in order to improve various cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular care treatments, conditioning, dyeing (direct or oxidation) permanently, shaping ... More particularly this research aims to improve the conditioning of the hair at these different treatments. The problem behind the present invention is to provide a method that improves the conditioning of hair.

To improve the conditioning of the treated hair, it has already been proposed to use, in hair care compositions, conditioning agents, including cationic surfactants, cationic polymers or silicones.

However, if these compositions allow, to some extent, improve detangling and softness of hair, they s' unfortunately also accompanied, on hair, by certain cosmetic effects considered undesirable, namely a heavier hairstyle (lack of lightness of the hair), a lack of smoothness (inhomogeneous hair from the root to the tip) and a failure on the brightness.

In particular, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose has various drawbacks. Because of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers are deposited significantly during repeated use, and lead to adverse effects such as an unpleasant, laden feel, stiffening of the hair and adhesion inter- fibers affecting styling. These drawbacks are accentuated in the case of fine hair, which lacks liveliness and volume. The current cosmetic compositions containing cationic conditioning agents therefore do not completely satisfied.

Furthermore, cationic surfactants are not tolerated well by the aquatic fauna and flora and their performance is limited particularly in smoothing term.

At the conclusion of numerous studies and unexpectedly and advantageously, the Applicant has demonstrated that these problems could be solved by a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers and more particularly the hair comprising at least the following two steps:

"A first step of applying to the keratin fibers of a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and," a second step of applying to said keratin fibers of a composition containing one or more zwitterionic surfactants chain (s ) fat (s) or the said zwitterionic surfactants being such that at least 50% by weight of them have at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.

Each of the steps of the method that is to say the step of applying to the cationic polymers and the step of applying or zwitterionic surfactants may be followed by a rinsing with water the fibers keratin.

By "fatty chain" as defined herein, is meant an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

By "step of applying a composition" within the meaning of the present application is meant that the composition is applied on the whole area to be treated then the composition is left to stand for a period between 30 seconds and 20 minutes, preferably between 1 and 5 minutes.

The method according to the present invention improves the conditioning of treated keratinous fibers, in particular confers an easing in the keratin fibers during the application of the zwitterionic surfactant, and an effect of flexibility and smoothness to keratinous fibers wet at the end of the implementation of the process, particularly after the optional rinsing.

The cosmetic hair treatment process according to the present invention may be a method for the treatment or conditioning keratin fibers, in particular hair washing process intended to provide softness to the keratin fibers. It can also s' be a direct dyeing process or oxidation or making up keratinous fibers, shaping method, fixing and / or holding of keratinous fibers and in particular permanently. When one of these treatments is implemented, it is noted that the packaging especially smoothness, softness, flexibility improved.

Other features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even more clearly on reading the description and examples that follow. First step As a usable cationic polymer in the composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention include any polymer containing cationic groups and / or ionized into cationic groups. The cationic polymers according to the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, such as those described in patent application EP-AO 337 354 and in french patent applications FR-A-2270846, 2383660, 2598 61 1 2470596 and

2519863.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary amine groups, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary that may either form part of the main polymer chain or be borne by a side substituent directly linked thereto.

The cationic polymers used have an average mo lecular weight above 15 000 and preferably greater than 10 5 and more preferably between 10 6 and 10. 8 Among the cationic polymers that may be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium. These are known products.

The polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium, which can be used in the composition of the present invention are those described in French patents numbers 2,505,348 and 2 542 997. Among these polymers include:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylic and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas: CH;

O = O = C

O = C NH NH

XAA. N. R 4 - N -R 6

R; RR

in which :

Ri and R 2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl;

R3, identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; the symbols A, which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 4, R 5, R 6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl (C 1 -C 4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these polymers of family (1) include: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules , copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name

Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba-Geigy, the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or otherwise, such as the products sold under the name "Gafquat" by ISP such as "Gafquat 734" or "Gafquat 755" or the products known as "Copolymer 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573,

- dimethyl methacrylate aminoethyl terpolymer / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,

- the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers marketed under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide quaternized such as the product sold under the name "Gafquat HS 100" by the company ISP,

- crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy (C l - 4 alkyl) tri (C l -C 4) alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking by a compound possessing olefinic unsaturation, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Mention may more particularly a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (20/80 by weight) as a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "SALCARE.RTM SC 92" by the company Ciba. One can also use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE.RTM SC 95" and "SALCARE.RTM SC 96" by the company Ciba.

(2) Cationic polysaccharides chosen from: a) derivatives of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups, described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular the polymers marketed under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. b) cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and disclosed in particular in US Patent 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl - or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium-trimethylammonium salt, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium-trimethylammonium chloride or dimethyl-diallylammonium.

The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by National Starch. c) non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides described in US Patent 3,589,578 and April 03 1307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. is used for example, guar gums modified with a salt, for example chloride, 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium. Such products are marketed under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C 162 by MEYHALL.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described in French patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, of an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508.

(5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from polyalkylene polyamines condensation with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, adipic acid / dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine wherein the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes an ethylene group. Such polymers are described in French Patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, mention may more particularly adipic acid polymers / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine.

(6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylenepolyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1, 4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1: 8: 1. Such polymers are described in the patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are marketed under the name "HERCOSETT 57" by Hercules Inc. or alternatively under the name "PD 170" or "101 DELSETTE" by Hercules in the case of adipic acid copolymer / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine. (7) cyclopolymers alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

)

in which formulas k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

R 7 and Rs, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group ( C1 -C4), or R 7 and R can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 7 and Rs, independently of one another preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate, phosphate. These polymers are described in French patent 2,080,759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2,190,406.

Among the cationic polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold especially under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Nalco and its low weight average molecular weight counterparts and chloride copolymers diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed under the name "Merquat 550". (8) quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units of formula (III):

10 ^ R12

- -A N + 1 - N + - B 1

II

"X 11" X 13 R "(| | |)

formula (III) wherein Rio, Rn, R 12 and R, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or Ri 0, Rn, R 12 and R 3, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Rio, Rn, R 12 and R represent an alkyl radical -C 6 linear or branched, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-oR 14 -D or -CO-NH-R 14 -D where R 14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester, and

X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A 1, Rio and R 2 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; further if Ai denotes an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, Bi can also denote a group - (CH 2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2) n wherein n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:

- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH (CHS) -O] V-CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a radical of bis-secondary diamine such as a piperazine derivative; c) a radical of bis-primary diamine of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or else the divalent radical

-CH 2 -CH 2 -SS-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have an average molecular mass generally of between 1000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in French Patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846 2.3 16,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patent 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432,

3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020.

Can be used more particularly are polymers that consist of repeating units corresponding to formula (IV): R 10 ^ 12

- N + (CH 2) n "(CH

II 2> P -

R 11 X "R 13 X"

(IV) wherein Rio, Rn, R 12 and R, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (V):

CH, CH,

-N + - (CH 2) P - NH - CO- D- NH - (CH 2) P - N (CH 2) 2 - O- (CH 2) 2

2X- CH 3 CH 3

(V) wherein: p denotes an integer varying from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be nothing or may represent a group

- (CH 2) t - CO - in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or to 7, and

X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. The cationic polymers containing units of formula (V) are described in particular in EP-patent application 122 324 and can be prepared according to the methods described in U. S patents. A. No. 4,157,388, 4,390,689, 4,702,906, 4,719,282.

Among these polymers, preferred are those of molecular weight measured by carbon-13 NMR of less than 100,000, and in the formula of which p is equal to 3, and, a) D represents a - (CFH) 4 -CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass, measured by carbon-13 NMR (13C NMR) being about 5600; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-AD l, b) D represents a - (CH 2) 7 - CO -, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR carbon-13 (13C NMR) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name Mirapol-AZ l, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass, measured by carbon 13 NMR (13 C NMR) being about 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by the company Miranol under the name MIRAP0L-A15, d) a "Block Copolymer" formed from units corresponding to the polymers described in paragraphs a) and c), by the company

Miranol under the names Mirapol-9, (13C NMR molecular mass about 7800) MIRAPOL- 175, (molecular weight 13 C NMR, 8000) Mirapol-95 (molecular weight 13 C NMR, about 12500).

Still more particularly, it is preferred according to the invention the polymer units of the formula (V) wherein p is 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular mass, measured by carbon-13 NMR, (13C NMR) being about 25,500.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company S BA. F.

(1 1) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Henkel, referenced under the name "Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine" in the CTFA dictionary.

Other cationic polymers used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the first step of the method according to the invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of the families (7) and (8).

Particularly preferably, the first step of the method according to the invention will be implemented using the polymers of family (7), particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold especially under the name "Merquat 100" by the Nalco.

The composition applied in the first step of the method according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 5% by weight of polymer (s) cation (s) relative to the total weight of the composition to be applied.

Particularly preferably, the composition applied in the first step of the process according to the invention does not comprise a zwitterionic surfactant comprising at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.

Second step

By "surfactant zwitterionic" means the purposes of the present invention a surfactant which, in its structure one or more negative charges and one or more positive charges, they s' balancing to give zero overall charge.

Or the zwitterionic surfactants used in the second step of the process according to the invention are preferably molecules comprising:

"An anionic charge in one end of the molecule, for example a sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate,

"A cationic charge, consisting of a quaternary ammonium," between these two charges, a spacer comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, optionally substituted or interrupted by one or more heteroatoms,

"One or more chain (s) fat (s) alkyl group (s), saturated (s) or unsaturated (s), unsubstituted (s) or substituted (s) by one or more hydroxyl groups, the (s) itself ( s) channel (s) being fixed (s) on the nitrogen atom of the quaternary ammonium group, optionally via an alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms and having one or more amide functional groups this or these surfactants characterized by the fact that at least 50% of them have at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.

Preferably, these zwitterionic surfactants comprising a fatty chain of at least 14 carbon atoms correspond to the formula (VI):

(VI) wherein:

"Rl is an alkyl chain or alkenyl unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms;" m is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

"N is 0 or 1;" R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms unsubstituted or mono-substituted with hydroxy;

"R4 represents an alkylene chain comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted or mono-substituted with hydroxy;

"X is selected from the following groups CO 2, SO 3, SO 4.

Preferred zwitterionic surfactants include: "the [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate of the formula:

n = 14; N, N-dimethyl-N-tetradecyl-N (3-sulfopropyl) ammonium betaine of the formula: this compound is for example marketed under the name Ralufon DM Raschig;

• cetyl propyl hydroxy sultaine of formula:

And betaines of formula: for which :

R = Ci 6 H 33 that is to say cetyl betaine, this compound is for example marketed under the name PB DETAINE by the company DEFOREST ENTERPRISES.

R = C 22 H 45 that is to say the béhénylbétaïne (In CRONAM B40-CRODA) R = CH 3 (CH 2) 2 ° C (0) N (H) (CH 2) 3 that is to say the behenylamidopropyl betaine; this compound is for example marketed under the name BA Mackam ® by the company McIntyre Group Ltd. Betaines where R = R'-C (O) -NH- (CH 2) 3 - with:

R ': C 18 16 ZC (oléostéaryl), the radical R' CO being derived from fatty acids shea butter, Sheabutteramidopropylbetaine INCI name and trade name: Lipex Shea Aarhuskarlshamn betaine; R ': C 18 (oleic), the radical R' CO being derived from olive oil fatty acids, INCI name olivamidopropylbétaine, trade name: tensolive (Soliance)

R: C 17 H 32 OH, the radical R 'CO being derived from castor oil, having the INCI name ricinoleamidopropylbétaine trade name Rewoteric AM R40 (Evonik Goldschmidt).

Even more preferably, the zwitterionic surfactants used are [N, N-dimethyl (3- palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate and béhénylbétaïne, and ricinoleamidopropylbétaine. The composition applied in the second step of the method according to the present invention generally comprises from 0, 1 to 15%, preferably 1 to 5% by weight of zwitterionic surfactants according to the invention relative to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions applied in the first or second step of the method according to the present invention may further contain at least one further thickener called "agent for adjusting the rheology."

Preferably, the thickening agents are thickening polymers. These thickening polymers may be associative or non-associative.

Non-associative polymers are those having no fatty chain C8-C30. Among the non-associative polymeric thickeners include modified polysaccharides or not, starch and its derivatives including the carboxymethyl, cellulose and its derivatives such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, guar gums and derivatives thereof such as hydroxyalkylguars, microbial gums such as xanthan gum. As nonassociative thickening polysaccharide not include the homo and copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or acrylamide propane sulfonic acid. The associative polymers used according to the invention are water-soluble polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises hydrophilic regions and hydrophobic regions characterized by the presence of at least one fatty chain.

Suitable associative polymers of the invention may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric and preferably nonionic.

Among the associative polymers of anionic, include:

- (I) those having at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one ether unit allyl fatty chain, especially those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly of a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures of these, and whose ether unit allyl fatty chain corresponds to the monomer of formula (VII):

CH 2 = CR 'CH 2 OB n R (VII) wherein R' denotes H or CH 3, B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl radicals, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. A unit of formula (VII) particularly preferred is a unit in which R 'denotes H, n is 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (C 18).

Anionic associative polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-O 216 479.

Among these anionic associative polymers are particularly preferred according to the invention, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth) acrylates of lower alkyl, 2 to 50% by weight of ether of fatty-chain allyl of formula (VII) and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is an unsaturated monomer well known copolymerizable polyethylenic such as diallyl phthalate, (meth) allyl acrylate, divinyl benzene dimethacrylate, (poly) ethylene glycol, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among these, most preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) ether of stearyl alcohol (Steareth 10), especially those sold by the company Allied Colloids under the names Salcare SC80® and Salcare SC90® which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and steareth- 10 allyl ether (40/50/10).

- (II) those having at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid, and at least one hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester (C10-C30) unsaturated carboxylic acid.

Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (VIII):

CH 2 = CC-OH II I R 1 O

(VIII) wherein, R denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5, that is to say acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester of (C10- C30) unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (IX)

CC-CH 2 = OR 3

I II

R 2 O

(IX)

wherein, R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (that is to say acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units), R 3 denoting alkyl C10-C30 and preferably C 2 -C 22.

Alkyl esters (Cio-C 3 o) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, acrylate, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl , the dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic polymers of this type are for example described and prepared according to U.S. Patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Among this type of anionic associative polymers, more particularly are polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) essentially acrylic acid,

(ii) an ester of formula (IX) described above and wherein R 2 denotes H or CH 3, R 3 denoting an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and

(Iii) a crosslinking agent which is a well known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, (meth) allyl acrylate, divinyl benzene dimethacrylate, (poly) ethylene glycol, and methylene-bis-acrylamide .

Among this type of anionic associative polymers used more particularly are those consisting of from 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in

C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of acrylate alkyls, C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0, 1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Among said polymers above, particularly preferred according to the present invention, products sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI ®, TR2® Pemulen and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI ®, and S product sold by the company. WFI C. under the name Coatex SX®.

- (III) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / α-olefin C30- C38 / maleate alkyl as the product (maleic anhydride / α-olefin-C3O C3s / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by Newphase Technologies. - (IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

(A) about 20% to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid with α unsaturation, β-monoethylenic unsaturation,

(B) about 20 to 80% by weight of a monomer with α unsaturation, β-monoethylenic non-surfactant other than (a),

(C) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoisocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation, such as those described in patent application EP-a-0173109 and more particularly that described in example 3, namely, a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of behenyl alcohol ethoxylated (40OE) in aqueous 25% dispersion.

- (V) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid containing α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and an ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferably these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of carboxylic acid to unsaturated CC, β- monoethylenically and C1-C4 alcohol.

As an example of this type of compound there may be mentioned 1 'Aculyn 22® sold by Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated. Among the associative polymers of cationic type include:

- (I) the cationic associative polyurethanes whose family has been described by the Applicant in the French patent application No. 0009609; it can be represented by the general formula (X) below: R-X- (P) n- [L- (Y) m] r-L '- (P') p-X'-R '(X) wherein: R and R ', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X ', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L "; L, L' and L", which are identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate ;

P and P ', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25, n, m, and p are each independently from 0 to 1000; the molecule containing at least one amine protonated or quaternized and at least one hydrophobic group.

In a preferred embodiment of these polyurethanes, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R 'at the chain ends. A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (X) described above and wherein:

R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L ", n and p are between 1 and 1000 and

L, L ', L ", P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (X) above wherein:

R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L ", n and p are 0, and L, L ', L", Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The fact that n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not comprise units derived from an amine-functional monomer incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of isocyanate functions in excess, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, that is, ie compounds or R'Q RQ, wherein R and R 'are as defined above and Q is a leaving group such as halide, sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (X) above wherein: R and R 'both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X 'both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine, n and p are zero, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

The average molecular weight of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 and ideally between 1000 and 300 000. hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When used as a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group derived from a monofunctional compound.

For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

When X and / or X 'denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas:

X

_N _ R2 R 2 χ,

in which :

R 2 represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S, O, P;

Ri and R 3, identical or different, denote an alkyl or alkenyl radical C 1 -C 30 linear or branched, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S , O, P;

A "is a physiologically acceptable ion-against.

The groups L, L 'and L "represent a group of formula: - ZC-NH-R 4 -NH-CZ - II 4 II

OO

in which :

Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

R 4 represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected from N, S , O and P.

The groups P and P 'comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulas:

I 8 -R 5 -NR 7 - or - R 5 -NR 7 -

R 6 R 6 A

or - R 7 - or - CH R5 _ _ R7 -

R 6 -NR 9 A

R 8

in which :

R 5 and R 7 have the same meanings as R 2 defined above; R 6, Rs and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above;

Rio represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally unsaturated and possibly containing one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P; and A "is an against-ion physiologically acceptable. As regards the meaning of Y, one means hydrophilic moiety, a polymeric water-soluble group or not.

For example, there may be mentioned, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. When, according to a preferred embodiment, a hydrophilic polymer, there may be mentioned by way of example polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. A preferred example, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, such as poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide). The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (X) used in the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds with functions containing a labile hydrogen. The functions containing a labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, respectively polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas. The term "polyurethanes" used according to the present invention encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof. A first type of compounds used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a compound having at least one patterned amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound contains two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol. One can also use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds wherein the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As indicated above, this compound may comprise more than one pattern amine function. It is then a polymer having a repeating pattern amine function. Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulas:

HZ- (P) n-ZH or HZ- (P ') p-ZH

wherein Z, P, P ', n and p are as defined above. Examples of amine-functional compound, there may be mentioned N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl-diethanolamine, N- sulfoéthyldiéthanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

O = C = NR 4 -N = C = O

wherein R 4 is defined above.

Examples include diisocyanate méthylènediphényl-, methylenecyclohexane, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, the butane, the hexane diisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) is a hydrophobic compound to form the hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula (X). This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a function containing labile hydrogen, e.g., a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol. For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcoho l. When this compound comprises a polymeric chain, it may be, for example alpha-hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene. The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (X) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine compound having at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound or type R'Q RQ, wherein R and R 'are as defined above and Q is a leaving group such as halide, sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. There may also be a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The functions containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.

For example, there may be mentioned, when it is not a polymer, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

In the case of a hydrophilic polymer, there may be mentioned by way of example polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. A preferred example, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, such as poly (ethylene oxide) or poly (propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group Y in formula (X) is optional. In fact, the units comprising a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, but preferred cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such group.

- (II) quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates containing non-cyclic amino side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular,

- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl.

Can be mentioned as examples of quaternized celluloses alkylhydroxyéthyl- fatty chains C8-C30, the product

Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529- 18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529- 18B® (alkyl 2) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol; and Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C 12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company

Croda.

The amphoteric associative polymers are chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. More particularly, preferred are those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol% of monomer comprising a fatty chain, and preferably 1, 5 to 15 mol% and still more particularly 1, 5 to 6 mol%, relative to the number total moles of monomers.

Preferred amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention comprise, or are prepared by copolymerizing:

1) at least one monomer of formula (XI) or (XII):

AT-

R 3

R 1 1 -CH = CI -CM -Z- (C n H 2n) N N

I II D

R 2 O K4

2 (XII)

wherein, Ri and R 2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R 3, R 4 and R 5, identical or different, represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z is NH or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A "is an anion derived from an organic or inorganic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

2) at least one monomer of formula (XIII)

R 6 -CH = CR 7 -COOH

(XIII) wherein R 6 and R 7, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; and

3) at least one monomer of formula (XIV): R -CH = CR 7 -COXR 8 6 7 8 (XIV) wherein R 6 and R 7, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 30 carbon atoms; at least one monomer of formula (XI), (XH) and (XIV) having at least one fatty chain.

The monomers of formula (XI) and (XII) of the present invention are selected preferably from the group consisting of: - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,

- diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate on the diméthylaminopropylméthacrylate the dimethylaminopropyl, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, these monomers optionally being quaternized, for example by an alkyl halide or a C 1 -C 4 dialkyl sulphate C 1 - C 4.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (XI) is selected from chloride and acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, methacrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium.

The monomers of formula (XIII) of the present invention are selected preferably from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl crotonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (XIII) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (XIV) of the present invention are selected preferably from the group consisting of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates of C 12 -C 22 and more particularly C 16 -C 18. The monomers constituting the amphoteric polymers with a fatty chain of the invention are preferably already neutralized and / or quaternized.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges is preferably equal to about 1. The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention preferably comprise from 1 to 10 mol% of monomer comprising a fatty chain (monomer of formula (XI), ( XII) or (XIV), and preferably 1, 5 to 6% mole.

The weight average molecular weight of the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may vary from 500 to

50,000,000 and preferably between 10,000 and 5,000,000.

The amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as alkyl acrylates or methacrylates Ci -C 4.

Amphoteric associative polymers of the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO 98/44012.

Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, preferred are acrylic acid / chloride

(Meth) acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate.

The nonionic associative polymers used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - (1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; there may be mentioned as examples:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl, or mixtures thereof, and wherein the alkyl groups are preferably Cs-C 22 as the product Natrosol

PLUS Grade 330 CS® (6 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and the product Bermocoll EHM 100® sold by the company Berol Nobel,

- those modified with polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl groups ether, such as the product Amercell POLYMER HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company

Amerchol.

- (2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR

HM 22® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210- 18® (alkyl chain 4) and RE205- 1 ® (alkyl chain C 20) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.

- (3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of hydrophobic monomers containing a fatty chain which may be mentioned by way of example:

- ANTARON V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company

I. S. P.

- ANTARON V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by ISP

- (4) copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates, C 1 -C 6 alkyl and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company

Goldschmidt UNDER the name Antil 208®.

- (5) copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates hydrophilic and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the methacrylate copolymer of polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl.

- (6) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain both hydrophilic sequences most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. - (7) polymers with an aminoplast ether skeleton containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendent chains to be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer, for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes comprising a fatty chain those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

As examples of nonionic polyurethane polyethers fatty chain usable in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205 ® urea function, sold by the company Rheox Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and Acrysol RM

184®.

We may also mention the product Elfacos T210® alkyl chain in C 12 to 14 and the product Elfacos T212® alkyl chain C 18 from Akzo.

DW 1206B® product of Rohm & Haas to C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% dry matter in the water, may also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. As an example of such polymers include, Rheolate.RTM 255, 278 and Rheolate.RTM Rheolate.RTM 244 sold by the company Rheox. You can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.

Suitable polyether polyurethanes according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380 389 (1993). Even more particularly preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyéthylèneglyco l comprising 150 to 180 moles of oxide of ethylene, (ii) the stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol ( 39%) and water (26%)]. Preferably when the composition of the first and / or second step contains a thickening agent it is nonionic.

Preferably the compositions applied in the first or second step of the process according to the invention comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably polymeric and / or non-ionic.

Advantageously, the composition applied in the first and / or second step of the process according to the invention comprises 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight of thickening agents relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step of the process according to the invention may also contain one or more additive (s) cosmetic (s) commonly used (s) in the art, for example chosen ( s) from reducing agents, oxidizing agents, fatty substances, silicones, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying or acidifying agents, plasticizers, pigments, mineral fillers , clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, fragrances, peptizing agents, preserving agents, proteins, vitamins, fixing polymers other than the cationic polymers used in the first step, the conditioning agents other than the cationic polymers used in the first stage and other than the zwitterionic surfactant active agents used in the second step.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 20% by total weight of the final composition. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the the potential (s) Additive (s) of compositions according to the invention as way of the advantageous properties in the process according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. The compositions applied in the first step and / or in the second step of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the composition comprises from 1 to 15%, preferably 3 to 8% by weight of active material of at least one fatty alcohol relative to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions applied in the first step and / or in the second step of the process according to the invention may include one or more silicones.

Suitable silicones may be soluble or insoluble in said composition.

They may in particular comprise one or more polyorganosiloxanes insoluble in the composition of the invention and be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Insoluble silicones include dispersed in the compositions in the form of particles generally having an average size ranging from 2 nanometers to 100 micrometers, preferably between 20 nanometers and 20 microns (measured with a granulometer).

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile polyorganosiloxane, chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 ° C and 260 ° C, and even more particularly from:

(I) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name "Volatile Silicone 7207" by Union Carbide or

"SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name "Volatile Silicone 7158" by Union Carbide, "SILBIONE

70045 V 5 ". By Rhodia, and mixtures thereof can also be mentioned Cyclocopolymers the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as" Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 "sold by the company Union Carbide, of chemical structure:

with D: O ~ -

Can also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1, 1 '- (hexa -2,2,2 ', 2', 3, 3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6m2 / s at 25 0 C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane sold under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Similarly, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile polyorganosiloxane, chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and silicone resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, linear block copolymers polysiloxane (A) -polyoxyalkylene (B) of (AB) n with n> 3; grafted silicone polymers, non-silicone organic skeleton, consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not comprising silicone, on which is grafted, inside the said chain and that possibly the at least one of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromonomer; grafted silicone polymers, containing a polysiloxane skeleton grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, comprising a polysiloxane main chain on which is grafted, inside the said chain and that optionally at one at least of its ends, at least one organic macromonomer containing no silicone; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made especially polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups having a viscosity of 5.10-6 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicone is eg measured at 25 ° C according to ASTM Standard 445 Appendix C.

Among these polyalkylsiloxanes include, without implied limitation, the following commercial products:

- the SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL oils sold by Rhone-Poulenc such as for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- the oils of the series MIRASIL sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc;

- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning such as more particularly 60 000 cSt viscosity DC200;

- the VISCASIL oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric. Also exemplary polydimethylsiloxane end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name) such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhone-Poulenc.

In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, may also be mentioned the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX

9800 and 9801 "by Goldschmidt, which are poly (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes may be chosen from polydimethyl-methylphenyl linear polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes and / or branched viscosity of 1.10-5 to 5.10 . -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include as an example the products sold under the following names:

. SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from Rhone-Poulenc; . series oils of the Rhodorsil 70 633 and 763 from Rhone

Poulenc;

. DOW CORNING 556 oil COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from Dow Corning;

. the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

. silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as PN the products OOO OOO and the PH;

. certain oils of the SF series from General Electric as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums used according to the invention are in particular, polydiorganosiloxanes having high number average molecular weights in number of between 200 000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils

(PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.

in particular may be cited the following products:

- polydimethylsiloxane, - polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums,

- polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane,

- polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane, - polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane.

Can also be used mixtures of silicones such as:

. mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end (known as dimethiconol according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (referred to as cyclomethicone according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning; . mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone, such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 dissolved in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

. mixtures of two PDMS of different viscosities, especially a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above, having a viscosity of 20 m2 / s, and an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5.10-

6m2 / s. This product preferably contains 15% SE 20 gum and 85% SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins usable according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2 Z 2, RsSiOi / 2, RSiÛ3 / 2 and SiO4 / 2 wherein R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group.

Among these products, those particularly preferred are those wherein R denotes a lower alkyl radical in C1-C4, more preferably methyl, or phenyl.

These include among these resins the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric, which are structural silicone dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane.

It can also be made of resins of the trimethyl-type marketed in particular under the names X22-4914, X21 -5034 and X21 -5037 by the company Shin

ETSU.

The organomodified silicones usable in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Among the organomodified silicones, polyorganosiloxanes having include: - polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising alkyl groups, C 6 -C 24 such as the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or oils

SILWET® L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 71 1 from the company Union Carbide, and the alkyl (C 12) methicone copolyol marketed by

Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;

- amino groups substituted or not, as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amine groups are aminoalkyl groups Ci -C 4 alkyl;

- quaternary ammonium groups such as the products marketed under the names ABILQUAT ABILQUAT 3272 and 3474 by Goldschmidt;

- of thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names "GP 72 A" and "GP 71" from Genesee; - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil WAX.RTM 2428, 2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt; - hydroxylated groups such as polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function, described in French patent application FR-A-85 16334;

- acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. 4,957,732. - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type such as, for example, in the products described in EP 186 507 from Chisso Corporation, or carboxylic alkyl such as those present in the product X-22-3701 E society Shin-Etsu; 2-hydroxyalkylsulphonate; 2- hydroxyalkylthiosulfate such as the products sold by Goldschmidt under the names "Abil® S201" and "S255 Abil®".

- hydroxyacylamino groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in EP 342 834. These include, for example, the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning.

Particularly preferred silicone herein are polydimethylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, or polydimethylsiloxane hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups, and amino silicones.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageously contains from 0, 1 to 20% by weight of silicone (s), more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.7 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions used in the first or second step of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof.

Anionic surfactants useful in the compositions of the invention are especially chosen from the salts, particularly the alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts, for example magnesium, of the following types: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido, alkylaryl, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha olefin sulfonates, the paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl glutamates, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the group aryl preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.

One can also use the alkyl monoesters Cβ-24 of polyglycoside dicarboxylic acids, such as alkyl glucoside citrates, polyglycoside tartrates alkyl and polyglycoside- alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkylsulphosuccinamates, the acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds containing from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

Another group of anionic surfactants used in the compositions of the present invention is that of acyl lactylates whose acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.

In addition, there may also be mentioned acid alkyl-D-uronic galactoside- and their salts as well as acid (C6-24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, acids (alkyl CO-24) (aryl C6-24 ) ether-carboxylic acids, acid (C 6-24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof. Is used preferably alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof, particularly as alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol.

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants useful in the present invention, may especially be of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate. Mention may in particular alkyl (C8-2θ) alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (C C8-2θ) amido (C6-8 alkyl) betaines or (C-Cs 2θ) amido (C 6 -

8) sulphobetaines.

Among the amine derivatives include the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US patents 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names names Amphocarboxyglycinate glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate respective structures (A) and (B): Ra-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (Rb) (Rc) (CH 2 COO-) (A) wherein:

Ra represents an alkyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH present in hydrolysed coconut oil or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and

Ra'-CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (B) (B ') (B) wherein: B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX',

B 'represents - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'represents the -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a gene hydrocarbon atom,

Y 'represents -COOH or the -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H, R' is an alkyl group of a Ra'-COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, a group alkyl, in particular C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated group -C 7.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate caprylamphodiacetate disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate disodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium acid lauroamphodipropionique, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Examples include the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrate.

Among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, are preferably used the (Cs-alkyl 2θ) betaines, the alkyl (C8-2θ) amido (C 6 -C s) betaines and mixtures thereof. The composition in the form of shampoo may also comprise one or more surfactant (s) nonionic (s) other (s) nonionic surfactants oxyethylenated and / or glycerolated of the invention. In particular, the (s) surfactant (s) bit (s) may be selected (s) from alkylpolyglucosides. Compositions in the form of conditioner may include one or more cationic surfactants preferably nonpolymeric, meaning nonpolymeric without repetition within its structure at least one unit derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer. Examples of cationic surfactant, mention may be made of primary fatty amine salts, secondary or tertiary, quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides, tetraalkylammonium, trialkylammonium alkylamidoalkyl, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxy alkylammonium or pyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature. The compositions of the first step and / or the second step may be in the form of lotions, gels, creams, foams, shampoos and after shampoos.

Between the "first" and "second" method steps of the invention may or may not perform rinsing. Preferably the first step is followed by rinsing.

The invention will be better understood using the examples in accordance with the following invention. These examples are non-limiting and represent preferred embodiments of compositions according to the invention.

EXAMPLES

Comparative Example Example 1 was performed 3 compositions:

Composition A = 0.3% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) in water (qs 100%)

Composition B = 3% my [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate in water (qs 100%)

Composition C = 0.3% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + 3% ai [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] - propane sulfonate in water (qs 100%) Method 1 - 1 Comparative (bit 1 )

Is applied at room temperature I g of a composition A to 2.7g of hair sensitized. Then rinsed.

-2 Process 1 according to the invention (bit 2)

Is applied at room temperature I g of a composition A to 2.7g of hair sensitized. Is then applied at room temperature I g of the composition B of the same strand. Rinse after two minutes break. Comparative Process 1 -3 (bit 3)

Is applied at room temperature I g of composition C on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Then rinsed.

Comparative Process 1 -4 (bit 4) is applied at room temperature I g of a composition B on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Then rinsed.

A control bit is kept without treatment.

then performed a comparative sensory evaluation of 4 bits.

The evaluation is conducted by a panel of 5 testers.

On wet hair, classification smooth touch is as follows:

Bit 2> wick 3> bit 4> bit 1> control

Notes

The lock treated by the process according to the invention has a significantly smoother feel

method of examples according to the invention

example 2

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine (Dehyton AB 30 - Cognis) + 1.5% ai of

(Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%)

- Composition E: 3% my [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate + 1% starch + water qs 100% was applied at room temperature I g of composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized .

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of composition E on said strands.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 3:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine (Dehyton AB 30 - Cognis) + 1.5% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO ) + water (qs 100%) composition F:

3% my [N, N-Dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - Cognis)

0.5% ai cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) qs 100% water

Is applied at room temperature I g of composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of the composition F of said roving. Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 4:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition G = 4.9% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) 8.7% cocamidopropyl betaine my (TEGO Betain F 50 - Goldschmidt) + 1.5% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) composition H: 3% ai behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - Croda) + 1% starch + water qs 100%

Is applied at room temperature of the composition I g G on 2.7g of hair sensitized. Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of the composition H of said roving.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 5:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition G = 4.9% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) 8.7% cocamidopropyl betaine my (TEGO Betain F 50 - Goldschmidt) + 1.5% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) Formulation I:

3% ai behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - CRODA) - 3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR -

Cognis)

0.5% ai cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) qs 100% water

Is applied at room temperature of the composition I g G on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of Composition I over said wicks.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 6 was performed two compositions:

- Composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine (Dehyton AB 30 - Cognis) + 1 .5% ai of ( Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) - H composition: 3% ai behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - Croda) + 1% starch + water qs 100%

Is applied at room temperature I g of a composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of the composition H of said roving.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 7:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine

(DEHYTON AB 30 - Cognis) + 1.5% of my (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (to 100%)

- Formulation I:

3% ai behenyl betaine (INCRONAM B 40 - CRODA) - 3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR -

Cognis)

0.5% ai cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) qs 100% water is applied at room temperature I g of a composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of Composition I over said wicks. Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 8:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition G = 4.9% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis 8.7% cocamidopropyl betaine (TEGO Betain F 50 - Goldschmidt) + 1.5% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) - composition J: 3% betaine my DE

SHEA BUTTER (LIPEX Shea BETAINE AARHUSKARLSHAMN) + 1% starch + water qs 100%

Is applied at room temperature of a composition I g G on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of composition J of said roving.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 9:

Is performed two compositions - Composition G = 4.9% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) 8.7% cocamidopropyl betaine my (TEGO Betain F 50 - Goldschmidt) + 1.5% of my (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (to 100%)

- composition K:

3% betaine my BUTTER SHEA (Shea Betaine LIPEX - AARHUSKARLSHAMN)

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - Cognis)

0.5% ai cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) qs 100% water

Is applied at room temperature of a composition I g G on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of composition K of said roving.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 10:

Is performed two compositions:

- Composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine (Dehyton AB 30 - Cognis) + 1.5% ai of (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (qs 100%) composition J: 3% betaine my shea butter (LIPEX Shea BETAINE AARHUSKARLSHAMN) + 1% starch + water qs 100%

Is applied at room temperature I g of a composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized.

Rinsed, and then at room temperature is applied to I g of Composition J of the wick

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Example 11:

Is performed two compositions: - composition D = 15, 4% ai lauryl ether sodium sulfate 2.2 EO (TEXAPON AOS 225 UP Cognis) + 2.4% ai cocoyl betaine (Dehyton AB 30 - Cognis) + 1.5% of my (Merquat 100 - NALCO) + water (to 100%)

- composition K - 3% betaine my BUTTER OF

SHEA (Shea Betaine LIPEX - AARHUSKARLSHAMN)

3% cetylstearyl alcohol (LANETTE O OR - Cognis)

0.5% ai cetyl ester (Miraceti - SIO) - qs 100% water

Is applied at room temperature I g of a composition D on 2.7g of hair sensitized. Rinsed, and then is applied at room temperature I g of composition K of the wicks.

Rinsed and then performed a sensory evaluation on wet hair: the hair is soft and smooth.

Claims

1. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human keratin fibers and more particularly hair, characterized in that it comprises at least the following two steps:
"A first step of applying to the keratin fibers of a composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and,
"A second step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing one or more zwitterionic surfactants chain (s) fat (s), the one or more surfactant (s) zwitterionic surfactant (s) being such that at least 50% by weight of them have at least one fatty chain having a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 14.
2. The method of claim 1 wherein the cationic polymer is chosen from: cyclopolymers alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium, such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):
(I) wherein: k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
R 7 and R 8 independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C 1 -C 4 alkyl), or R 7 and R 8 may form, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R 7 and R 8 independently from each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulphate, bisulphite, sulphate, phosphate, or the quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units of formula (III):
R 10 ^ 12
- ^ + -A 1 - N + - B.,
R 11 XR 13 X
(III) formula (III) wherein Rio, Rn, R 12 and R 13, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or radicals lower hydroxyalkyl, or Ri 0, Rn, R 12 and R 3, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or Rio, Rn, R and R 12 represents an alkyl radical -C 6 linear or branched, substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-oR 14 -D or -CO-NH-
R 14 -D where R 14 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
A 1, Rio and R 2 may form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; further if Ai denotes an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, Bi can also denote a group - (CH 2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH 2) n wherein n is between 1 and 100 and preferably between 1 and 50, and D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula: -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
- (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH (CHS) -O] V-CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a radical of bis-secondary diamine such as a piperazine derivative; c) a radical of bis-primary diamine of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or else the divalent radical
-CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
3. The method of claim 1 or 2 wherein the cationic polymer is the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride.
4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the composition applied in the first step of the method according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 5% by weight polymer (s) cation (s) relative to the total weight of the composition to be applied.
5. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is of formula (VI):
(VI) wherein:
"Rl is an alkyl chain or alkenyl unsubstituted or substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 24 carbon atoms;
"M is an integer ranging from 1 to 3;" n is 0 or 1;
"R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent an alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms unsubstituted or mono-substituted by a hydroxyl group;" R4 represents an alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, unsubstituted or mono-substituted with hydroxy;
X is selected from the following groups CO2, SO3, SO4.
6. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is selected from: [N, N-dimethyl (3-palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate, N, N-dimethyl -N-tetradecyl -N (3-sulfopropyl) ammonium betaine, cetyl propyl hydroxy sultaine, cetyl betaine, the béhénylbétaïne, the béhénylamidopropylbétaïne the oléoamidopropylbétaine, and ricino leamidopropylbétaine.
7. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the zwitterionic surfactant is [N, N-dimethyl-1 (3 -palmitoylaminopropyl) ammonio] -propane sulfonate.
8. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the second step of the process according to the invention comprises from 0, 1 to 15%, preferably 1 to 5% by weight zwitterionic surfactant by relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the compositions applied in the first or second step of the process according to the invention comprise one or more thickening agents, preferably polymeric and / or non-ionic.
10. Method according to the preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first and / or second stage comprises from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight of thickening agents relative to the total weight of the composition.
1 1. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step of the process contains one or more additive (s) cosmetic (s) commonly used (s) in the art, for example chosen (s) from reducing agents, oxidizing agents, fatty substances, silicones, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying or acidifying agents, the plasticizers, pigments, mineral fillers, clays, colloidal minerals, pearlescent agents, fragrances, peptizing agents, preserving agents, proteins, vitamins, fixing polymers other than the cationic polymers used in the first step, agents conditioners other than the cationic polymers used in the first stage and other than the zwitterionic surfactants used for the second step.
12. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprise one or more fatty alcohols having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
13. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprise one or more silicones.
14. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the composition applied in the first step and / or the composition applied in the second step comprise one or more additional surfactants.
15. A method according to any preceding claim wherein the first step is followed by rinsing.
16. A method according to any preceding claim characterized in that it is a question of a treatment method or conditioning keratin fibers.
17. A method according to any preceding claim characterized in that s' is a direct coloring process or oxidation, shaping, or for making up keratin fibers.
PCT/FR2010/050548 2009-03-31 2010-03-25 Cosmetic hair treatment method comprising the application of a composition comprising a cationic polymer followed by the application of a composition comprising a zwitterionic surfactant WO2010112734A1 (en)

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EP3010477A1 (en) * 2013-06-19 2016-04-27 The Procter and Gamble Company System use of shampoo comprising cationic polymer and conditioner comprising mono-long alkyl amine and/or polyol

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EP0511652A1 (en) * 1991-04-29 1992-11-04 Helene Curtis, Inc. Hair shampoo composition to impart improved hair conditioning properties
EP0672409A1 (en) * 1994-03-15 1995-09-20 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing a synergic blend of conditioning polymers
EP1043011A1 (en) * 1999-04-09 2000-10-11 GOLDWELL GmbH Two-step hair conditioning and style retention process
US20070169285A1 (en) * 2006-01-25 2007-07-26 Saroja Narasimhan Method and kit for coloring hair

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GB2220216A (en) * 1988-06-30 1990-01-04 Procter & Gamble Washing and conditioning hair
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