FR3104994A1 - Composition comprising a natural dye, a dispersing agent, an oil and a fatty phase thickener - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising a natural dye in powder form, a dispersing agent, an oil and an oily phase thickener The subject of the present invention is a composition for dyeing human keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprising at least one natural dye, at least a dispersing agent, at least one oil and at least one fatty phase thickener. The invention also relates to a dyeing process using this composition.

Description

Composition comprising a natural colorant, a dispersing agent, an oil and a fatty phase thickener

The subject of the present invention is a composition for coloring human keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising at least one natural dye, at least one dispersing agent, at least one oil and at least one fatty phase thickener. The invention also relates to a coloring process using this composition.

Two major modes of coloring human keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, are known.

One of these two modes is oxidation or permanent coloring. This coloring method uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers.

In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, give access to colored species.

Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.

The variety of molecules involved in oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. This type of coloring also makes it possible to obtain permanent coloring, but the use of oxidizing agents can lead to the degradation of keratin fibres.

The second coloring mode, called direct or semi-permanent coloring, includes the application of direct dyes which are molecules with an affinity for fibers and dyes even in the absence of an oxidizing agent added in the compositions containing them. Given the nature of the molecules used, these remain on the surface of the fiber and penetrate relatively little inside the fiber, compared to the small molecules of precursors of oxidation dyes.

The direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species used can be nonionic, anionic (acid dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes can also be natural dyes.

Hair coloring from natural direct dyes has been known since antiquity.

The compositions containing one or more natural dyes are applied to the keratin fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloration, then rinsed.

However, the resulting colorations are colorations that can be particularly chromatic but temporary or semi-permanent because their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fiber is responsible for their lack of dyeing power and their poor washability. . In addition, these compositions require relatively long exposure times. They can vary from several tens of minutes to several hours (one night) depending on the desired intensity, without being able to control the result. The result varies depending on the fibers to be colored and the nature of the natural dye(s) used.

One of the aims of the present invention is to offer dyes based on natural dyes with varied shades, resistant, respecting the nature of the hair, allowing a more comfortable application of the product on the head with less product on the head and a limited drying of the product during application, unlike the application of a poultice, overcoming the problem of stability of powders in the form of creams and optimizing the qualities of use, while maintaining intense colorations. In particular, the invention aims to reduce the quantity of dye in the form of powder necessary, to solve the constraints induced by the dustiness of the powders and to facilitate the application, the elongation and the rinsability of the coloring, while maintaining an intense coloring.

This object is achieved by the present invention which relates to a composition, comprising
- at least one natural dye,
- at least one dispersing agent,
- at least 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition and
- at least one fatty phase thickener.

The invention also relates to a process for dyeing human keratin fibres, in particular the hair, in which the composition of the invention is applied to the human keratin fibres, in particular the hair.

The composition according to the invention is stable, mixes easily with water at the time of use, this mixture being stable, homogeneous, easy to apply and to distribute on the hair. The composition makes it possible to quickly obtain a good build-up of the color and makes it possible to lead to good tinctorial properties, in particular powerful, aesthetic colorations, with varied shades.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In the description, the term " at least one " is equivalent to one or more.

By “ rise ” in the color of the keratin fibres, is meant within the meaning of the present invention, the variation in coloring between locks of uncolored hair and locks of colored hair.

By stable composition is meant a composition whose viscosity varies little or not on storage. This stability can be evaluated after 2 months of storage at room temperature or at 45° C. and without phase shift.

By “ powder ” is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition in powder form, preferably essentially free of dust. In other words, the particle size distribution of the particles is such that the weight rate of the particles which have a size less than or equal to 50 micrometers (dust rate) preferably less than or equal to 10 micrometers (dust rate) is advantageously less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than 2% and more particularly less than 1% (size of the particles evaluated by means of a RETSCH AS 200 DIGIT particle size analyzer; Oscillation height: 1.25 mm/sieving time: 5 minutes). Advantageously, the size of the particles is between 10 μm and 500 μm.

Natural dye(s)

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural colorant.

In the context of the invention, the term “ natural dye ” is understood to mean any dye or dye precursor originating from a natural source, in particular of plant origin. Natural dyes can in particular be obtained by extraction (and possibly purification) from a plant matrix, by grinding plants or parts of plants, roots, wood, bark, berries, lichens, leaves, flowers, nuts or seeds. Natural dyes can also be obtained by fermentation.

The natural dye(s) are, for example, chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, anthragallol, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinusolin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, orceins, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin, brazilein, santaline, santarubin, carthamine, flavonoids (with for example morine, apigenidin, quercetin), anthocyanins (of the apigenidin type), carotenoids, anthraquinones and mixtures thereof.

Use is made, in particular, of extracts, decoctions or ground materials, in particular powders, containing these natural dyes and in particular extracts, decoctions or ground materials obtained for example from pernambuco wood, logwood, sandalwood, orseille, turmeric, madder, indigo plants such as indigo, sorghum, carrots, annatto, Brazilwood, safflower, henna or mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise powder and/or an extract of indigo-containing plant(s). (By “indigoferous plant extract” is meant within the meaning of the present invention a “coloring extract of indigoferous plant”).

As an indigo-bearing plant, we can cite many species from the genera:
- Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa ;
- Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria;
- Polygonum or Persicaria such as Polygonum tinctorium (Persicaria tinctoria) ;
- Wrightia such as Wrightia tinctoria ;
- Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia; And
- Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.

Preferably the indigo-bearing plant is of the genus Indigofera and more particularly is Indigofera tinctoria, Suffructicosa or argentea, preferably Indigofera tinctoria .

It is possible to use all or part (in particular the leaves, in particular for Indigofera tinctoria ) of the indigo-bearing plant.

The useful dye according to the invention can be henna.

According to the present invention, “henna” means a henna plant powder and/or a coloring extract of a henna plant, preferably of a henna plant such as Lawsonia alba or Lawsonia inermis . The henna plant coloring powder and/or extract comprises in particular lawsone and/or one of its glucosylated precursors.

Preferably, the henna used according to the present invention is in powder form.

Preferably, the henna used in the invention is red henna ( Lawsonia inermis, alba ). Lawsone [83-72-7] (CI Natural Orange 6; CI 75420) also known as isojuglone, can be found in Henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis).

Preferably, the natural dye(s) useful according to the invention are in the form of powder(s).

Preferably, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo plant extracts and/or powders and/or mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the natural dye(s) are chosen from henna powder, indigo plant powders and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the total amount of natural dye(s) varies from 30 to 98% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 45 to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is such that the natural dye(s) is (are) in the form of powders and dispersed in the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise plants of the Cassia family, in particular chosen from Cassia Angustifolia (senna), or Cassia Auriculata or Cassia Italica, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise a powder or a plant extract from the Cassia family, in particular from Cassia Angustifolia and/or Cassia Auriculata and/or Cassia Italica, preferably from Cassia Angustifolia.

For example, the composition of the invention comprises the natural dye(s) chosen from henna powder, indigo plant powders, plant powders from the Cassia family, in particular Cassia Angustifolia and/or Cassia Auriculata and/or Cassia Italica and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises the natural dye(s) chosen from henna powder, indigo plant powders, Cassia Angustifolia powders and mixtures thereof.

dispersing agent

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dispersing agent.

By " dispersing agent " is meant within the meaning of the present invention a compound added to a suspension to improve the diffusion on a surface or a liquid, to separate the particles and capable of limiting, or even avoiding, the agglomeration of the particles or powders. and/or their sedimentation.

The dispersing agent(s) according to the invention are preferably chosen from polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids and/or their salts and/or derivatives.

By fatty acid is meant a carboxylic acid comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 20 carbon atoms.

The hydroxy fatty acid polymers can be homo or copolymers of hydroxy fatty acids.

As hydroxylated fatty acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made of hydroxylated fatty acid esters.

These polymers may contain one or more monomers other than hydroxy fatty acids and/or their salts or derivatives, in particular non-hydroxy fatty acids and/or their salts or derivatives.

According to one embodiment, the hydroxylated fatty acid copolymers are obtained from one or more hydroxylated fatty acid(s) monomers and optionally one or more hydroxylated fatty acid(s) ester monomers .

According to another embodiment, the copolymers of hydroxylated fatty acids are obtained from one or more hydroxylated fatty acid(s) monomers and optionally one or more nonhydroxylated fatty acid(s) monomers.

The hydroxylated fatty acid polymer can be chosen from hydroxylated carboxylic acid polymers comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 20 carbon atoms and its salts.

The polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids can be obtained from esters of hydroxylated fatty acid(s), preferably from esters of hydroxystearic acid, in particular of 12-hydroxystearic acid.

The polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids can be obtained from esters of hydroxylated fatty acid(s) and non-hydroxylated C ₄ to C ₂₀ fatty acid, preferably C ₈ to C ₂₀ , of preferably from esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and non-hydroxylated C ₄ to C ₂₀ fatty acid, preferably C ₈ to C ₂₀ .

When the polymer is obtained from hydroxy fatty acid ester, the hydroxy fatty acid ester is obtained from C ₄ to C ₂₀ fatty acid, preferably C ₈ to C _{20 fatty acid,} preferably an ester of hydroxystearic acid _.

In particular, the hydroxylated fatty acid polymers are chosen from polymers of hydroxylated fatty acid esters, preferably from oligomers of esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid and of C ₈ to C ₂₀ fatty acids. such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) oligomer stearate.

Use is made in particular of polymers of hydroxystearic acid, in particular of 12-hydroxystearic acid. According to a particular embodiment, the hydroxystearic acid polymer is obtained from 12-hydroxystearic acid, optionally from hydroxystearic acid ester, for example methyl or ethyl hydroxy stearate, in particular 12-hydroxystearate methyl, and optionally other hydroxy fatty acids, for example 12-hydroxydodecanic acid.

According to another particular embodiment, the polymer of hydroxystearic acid is obtained from 12-hydroxystearic acid, and optionally from stearic acid.

According to one embodiment, the polymer of hydroxylated fatty acids is a homopolymer or copolymer of 12-hydroxystearic acid.

Among the salts of hydroxylated fatty acid polymers, mention may be made of potassium, sodium and ammonium salts.

Among the polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids and/or its salts and/or derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of the oligomers of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of C ₈ to C ₂₀ fatty acid such as the oligomer of poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mole such as that sold by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the reference Dispersun DSP-OL 100 or Dispersun DSP-OL 300 (INCI name Polyhydroxystearic acid), esters of polyhydroxy-12-stearic acid with polyols such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI name) sold under the reference Dehymuls®PGPH by the company Henkel, the compound bearing the INCI name Polyhydroxystearic acid such as the product offered under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Croda.

The oligomers of 12-hydroxystearic acid such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid oligomer stearate are preferably used, such as the product offered by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS under the reference Dispersun DSP-OL 100 or Dispersun DSP -OL 300 (INCI name: polyhydroxystearic acid).

The dispersing agent(s) according to the invention can also be chosen from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular from polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide of the following formula
H-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a -(O-CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ ) _b -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _a' -OH,
where a , a' range from 2 to 150 and b range from 1 to 100.

As polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the triblock polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol polycondensates sold under the names "SYNPERONIC" such as "SYNPERONIC® PE/F32" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 108), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F108" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 338), "SYNPERONIC® PE/ L44" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 124), "SYNPERONIC® PE/L42 (INCI name: POLOXAMER 122 ), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F127" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 407), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F88" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), "SYNPERONIC® PE/L64" (INCI name: POLOXAMER 184), "SYNPERONIC® PE/F88” (INCI name: POLOXAMER 238), “SYNPERONIC® PE/F87” (INCI name: POLOXAMER 237) by the company CRODA, or even “LUTROL® F68” (INCI name: POLOXAMER 188) by the company BASF.

Among the dispersing agents which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty diesters such as diisostearyl malate.

According to one embodiment, the total quantity of dispersing agent(s) varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 12% by weight, better still 0.1 to 10% by weight , even better from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oils)

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more oil(s).

By “ oil ” is meant within the meaning of the invention a “ fatty substance ” which is liquid at a temperature of 30° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The viscosity at 25° C. is preferably less than 1200 cps, better still less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using an ARG2 rheometer from TA Instruments equipped with a mobile of cone-plane geometry d a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a shear stress range from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa).

The term “ fatty substance ” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% by weight and preferably 1% by even more preferably at 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The term “ non-silicone oil or fatty substance ” means an oil or a fatty substance not containing Si—O bonds and a “ silicone oil or fatty substance ” means an oil or a fatty substance containing at least one Si—O bond.

The useful oils according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated or (poly)glycerolated ethers.

The useful oils according to the invention are not fatty acids in salified form giving water-soluble soaps.

More particularly, the useful oils according to the invention are chosen from non-silicone oils and in particular C ₆ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbons or hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms and in particular alkanes; triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; essential oils; glycerides of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols; fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides.

It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the C ₆ -C ₁₆ liquid hydrocarbons, the latter are linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably are alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, or mixtures thereof. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, or mixtures thereof.

Among the triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, mention may be made of liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, coconut, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear C ₃ -C ₂₉ or branched C ₄ -C ₃₀ and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear C ₃ -C ₂₉ or branched C ₄ -C ₃₀ , the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters can be used, such as, for example, Purcellin's oil (stearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate.

Among the essential oils contained in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of those mentioned in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (" Flavors and Fragrances ", Karl-Georg Fahlbusch et al., Published Online: 15 JAN 2003, DOI: 10.1002/ 14356007.a11_141).

According to a preferred variant of the invention, the oil or oils are chosen from C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, polydecenes, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, in particular triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. Better still, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, or mixtures thereof; more preferably from triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin.

According to another very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly oils of vegetable origin, preferably oils of jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut , brazil nuts, marula, corn, argan, soy, squash, grapeseed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed oil and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the oils of plant origin are chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed and mixtures thereof, more preferably from coconut oil, rapeseed oil and mixtures thereof.

Coconut oil with the INCI name Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil and rapeseed oil with the INCI name Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil should preferably be used.

According to one embodiment, the total quantity of oil(s) is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably, the total quantity of oil(s) varies from 10 to 85 % by weight, more particularly from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 75% by weight, better still from 25 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase thickener(s)

The composition according to comprises one or more fatty phase thickener(s).

By " fatty phase thickener " is meant according to the present invention compounds which increase by their presence at a content of 0.05% by weight the viscosity of a fatty composition into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably at least 50 cps, at 25° C., at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone/plane viscometer, Haake R600 rheometer or the like ).

The concept of fatty phase thickener is analogous to the concept of lipophilic thickener.

The fatty phase thickener(s) useful according to the invention can be chosen from mineral fatty phase thickeners, organic fatty phase thickeners, and mixtures of these compounds.

The mineral fatty phase thickeners useful according to the invention are preferably mineral particles essentially consisting of mineral oxide and/or hydroxides.

These particles are preferably insoluble in water at room temperature (25°C). By insoluble is meant a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight.

Preferably, the primary size in number of these mineral particles varies from 0.01 to 500 μm, preferably varies from 0.1 to 200 μm, and even more preferably varies from 1 to 100 μm.

Within the meaning of the present invention, “ primary particle size ” means the maximum dimension that it is possible to measure between two diametrically opposite points of an individual particle.

The size of the mineral particles can be determined by transmission electron microscopy or from the measurement of the specific surface by the BET method or from laser granulometry.

The mineral particles that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in different forms, for example in the form of a sphere, a needle, a flake or a wafer.

In a preferred variant of the invention, the inorganic fatty phase thickener or thickeners are platelet particles.

The inorganic fatty phase thickener(s) useful according to the invention can preferably be chosen from silicas and silicates.

The silicates of the invention can be natural or chemically modified (or synthetic).

Silicates correspond to possibly hydrated silica, of which part of the silicon atoms are replaced by metal cations such as Al ³⁺ , B ³⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Ga ³⁺ , Be ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Mg ^{2 +} , Co ³⁺ , Ni ³⁺ , Na ⁺ , Li ⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ .

More particularly, the silicates which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites, saponites, as well as from the vermiculite family, stevensite, chlorites.

These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin. Preferably, clays are used which are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials.

The silicate can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may thus be made of the compounds marketed by the company LAPORTE under the names LAPONITE XLG and LAPONITE XLS.

The silicate(s) are preferably chosen from bentonites or hectorites.

The silicate(s) can be modified with a compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As suitable silicates, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by the Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone IPP Gel, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by the company Rheox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by the company Biophil.

The silicates which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen, in particular from modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with C ₁₀ -C ₁₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular distearyl dimethylammonium chloride and benzyldimethylammonium stearyl chloride.

As explained above, the mineral fatty-phase thickener(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be silicas.

The silicas which can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably pyrogenic.

Fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are for example marketed under the names "AEROSIL 130®", "AEROSIL 200®", "AEROSIL 255®", "AEROSIL 300®", "AEROSIL 380®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O- SIL HS-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL EH-5®”, “CAB-O-SIL LM-130®”, “CAB-O-SIL MS-55®”, “CAB-O-SIL M -5®” by the Cabot Company.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of said silicas, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

(a) trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references “AEROSIL R812®” by the company Degussa, “CAB-O-SIL TS-530®” by the company Cabot;
(b) dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Pooch.

Preferably, the fumed silicas which can be used in the composition according to the invention are hydrophilic, such as that marketed under the name “AEROSIL 200®”.

Preferably, the inorganic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from organophilic clays, hydrophilic fumed silicas and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the inorganic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from hectorites modified with C ₁₀ -C ₁₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular dimethylammonium distearyl chloride and benzyldimethylammonium stearyl chloride, and hydrophilic fumed silicas such as the hydrophilic silicas sold under the name “AEROSIL 200®”.

Even more preferably, the inorganic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ -C ₁₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, in particular hectorite modified with distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, such as that marketed under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis, and hectorite modified with stearyl benzyldimethylammonium chloride, such as that marketed under the name Bentone 27V by the company Elementis.

As explained previously, the fatty phase thickener(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from organic fatty phase thickeners.

Preferably, the organic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, saccharide or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters such as dextrin palmitate, derivatives N-acylated amino acid amides, polymers comprising an alkylene and/or styrene block such as stearyl polyacrylates, elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, solid fatty esters, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ , and mixtures of these compounds. These copolymers can be di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial-block polymers also called star copolymers, or even comb polymers.

Among the C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid esters, mention may be made of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, di- or triesters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids of glycerol. It is possible in particular to use a mixture of these compounds such as a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-esters of behenic acid and of glycerol.

Very particularly, the organic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, saccharide or polysaccharide mono or polyalkyl esters such as dextrin palmitate, polymers comprising an alkylene and/or styrene sequence such as polystearyl acrylates, solid fatty esters, in particular C ₈ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ , fatty acid esters, and mixtures of these compounds.

Even more preferably, the organic fatty phase thickener(s) are chosen from saccharide or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters such as dextrin palmitate, C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ and mixtures thereof, better mono-, di- or triesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, and glycerol.

Preferably, the fatty phase thickener or thickeners are chosen from organic thickeners.

According to one embodiment, the total quantity of fatty phase thickener(s) varies from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one natural dye chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo plant extracts and/or powders and/or mixtures thereof;
- at least one dispersing agent chosen from polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids and/or their salts and/or derivatives, preferably chosen from polymers of hydroxystearic acid and/or its salts and/or derivatives;
- at least 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably chosen from oils of vegetable origin;
- at least one fatty phase thickener chosen from organic fatty phase thickeners, more preferably from saccharide or polysaccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters such as dextrin palmitate, C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ and mixtures thereof, better mono-, di- or triesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and polyols, more particularly mono-, di- or triesters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and of glycerol.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one surfactant chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic and/or nonionic, preferably anionic, surfactant.

Among the nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, each of these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated, and having at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 200.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene, condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, etc.

The nonionic surfactant(s) is (are) preferably chosen from polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated alcohols, and having at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, from preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 2 to 200. Among these compounds, mention may be made in particular of oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, the cetyl alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, the stearyl alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, the cetearyl alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, the oleic alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide. More preferably, oleic alcohol comprising from 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, better still from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, will be used.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -CO ₂ H, -CO ₂ ^- , -SO ₃ H, -SO ₃ ^- , -OSO ₃ H, -OSO ₃ ^- , O ₂ PO ₂ H, O ₂ PO ₂ H ^- , O ₂ PO ₂ ^2- .

The anionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the compositions of the invention are chosen in particular from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of monoesters of alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amido-ether acids -carboxylics; or the non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group designating a phenyl group.

Some of these compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably used are (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl sulfates, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl ether sulfates, optionally oxyethylenated comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, acylglutamates, and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol salts. More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfates, acylglutamates, in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium lauryl sulfate, cetostearyl sulfate of sodium, sodium lauroylglutamate, and mixtures thereof.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. , said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₃ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl) )amido(C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant, preferably anionic as described above, preferably chosen from (C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ )alkyl sulfates, acylglutamates, in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium cetostearyl sulphate, sodium lauroylglutamate and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the total amount of surfactants, when they are present, varies from 0.05 to 20% and preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 5% by weight and even more preferably, from 0.1 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Additional colorant(s)

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional dyes.

Among the additional dyes useful according to the invention, mention may be made of direct dyes other than dyes in powder form as described above. These additional direct dyes may be synthetic.

By " direct dye " is meant colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

The synthetic direct dyes are preferably chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as neutral, acid or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acid or cationic azo direct dyes, quinone and in particular neutral, acid or cationic anthraquinone direct dyes, azinic, triarylmethane, indoamine direct dyes, methines, styrils, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.

Among the additional dyes useful according to the invention, mention may also be made of the oxidation bases and/or the couplers conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibers. Among the oxidation bases, mention may be made of para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, bis-para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. These bases and couplers form a dye when in contact with an oxidant.

When they are present, the additional dyes are preferably present in a total amount of between 0.001 and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition(s) considered. .

Solvent(s)

The compositions according to the invention may contain a mixture of organic solvents or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. By “ anhydrous composition ” is meant within the meaning of the present invention that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight, the better the composition is free of water. In particular, the composition does not comprise any added water, any water present being provided by the raw materials used.

By organic solvent is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one organic solvent.

According to one embodiment, the organic solvent(s) useful in the compositions of the invention is or are chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ lower alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. Preferably, the organic solvents useful in the compositions of the invention are chosen from lower C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols; polyols and polyol ethers, aromatic alcohols; and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, ethanol and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the total amount of organic solvents as defined above, when they are present, varies from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are found, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention are free of organic solvents; they then contain a total amount of organic solvents of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additive(s)

The compositions of the dyeing process in accordance with the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing the hair, such as polymers other than dispersants as described above, thickening agents other than fatty phase thickeners such as described above, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents other than oils as described above, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives, opacifying agents.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or to the composition(s) in accordance with the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream. It can be packaged in a pump bottle.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously obtained in the form of a cream by adding natural dyes and optionally one or more surfactants to a composition comprising at least one dispersant, at least one oil and at least one thickener, as described previously at 50-60°C having previously been heated to 80°C. The mixture is then sheared. In this cream, natural dyes, preferably in the form of powders, are dispersed in the composition. The composition of the invention is in the form of a more or less fluid cream. Thus, this composition has a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from about 10 to 250 poise (1 to 15 Pa.s) and preferably from about 50 to 200 poise (1.5 to 10 Pa.s), this viscosity being measured with a Rhéomat RM200 device at 25°C with the appropriate spindles.

Coloring process

The hair coloring process consists in implementing the composition according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the hair coloring process consists in applying the composition of the invention to the hair.

According to another embodiment, the process for coloring the hair consists in applying to the hair a composition resulting from the extemporaneous mixing at the time of use of the composition according to the invention with at least one aqueous composition.

In a first variant, the hair coloring process according to the invention consists in applying to the hair a composition ( A ) comprising at least one natural dye, at least one dispersing agent, at least 10% by weight of oil ( s) relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one fatty phase thickener on dry or damp hair.

In a second variant, the process for coloring the hair, according to the invention consists in applying to the hair a composition ( C ) obtained by mixing a composition ( A ) comprising a natural dye, at least one dispersing agent, at least 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one fatty phase thickener and at least one composition ( B ), preferably aqueous.

In a particular embodiment, composition ( B ) is water.

Preferably, composition ( B ) is applied at a temperature of between 10°C and 100°C, better still between 40°C and 100°C.

The mixing ratio between composition ( A ) and composition ( B ) can vary from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.1 to 5, preferably from 0.2 to 1, better still from 0.5 to 0, 8.

According to this embodiment, the mixture of the compositions ( A ) and ( B ) is preferably carried out less than 30 min before application, preferably less than 15 min before application, better still less than 10 min before application, or even less than 5 min before application. Better still, the mixture of the compositions ( A ) and ( B ) is an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use.

The composition applied is then left in place for a period usually ranging from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably from 5 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes, better still from 10 minutes to 1 hour.

It is possible, advantageously, after application of the coloring composition, to subject the hair to a heat treatment. In practice, this operation can be carried out using a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared ray dispenser and other conventional heating devices.

The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 to 25°C) and 80°C, preferably between room temperature and 60°C.

At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally subjected to washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried (mechanically with a towel, or paper absorbent, or by heat) or left to dry.

Device or "kit"

Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments or “kit” for hair treatment comprising a first compartment containing at least one natural dye and a second compartment comprising at least one dispersing agent, at least 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one fatty phase thickener.

According to a variant, the device according to the invention further comprises an additional composition comprising one or more treatment agents, this composition possibly being in particular an aqueous composition.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by appropriate means of application, which are identical or different, such as paintbrushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means making it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

Examples

Comparative tests 1

Compositions A and C (invention) and B (comparative) were prepared. The proportions of the ingredients are indicated in grams of active material per 100 grams of composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Ingredients AT
(inv) B
(count) VS
(inv) Henna powder (HENNA STEM AND LEAF POWDER marketed by INTERMARKET NEGOCE EXPORTATEUR) 50
(pm) 50
(pm) 50
(pm) 12-Hydroxy-Stearic Acid Oligomer Stearate (DISPERSUNDSPOL-300 by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS) (INCI name: POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID) (dispersant) 2.5 - - Colza oil 45.1 47.6 45.1 Glycerol benehate/ Glycerol dibehenate/ Glycerol tribeneate (fat phase thickener) 2.4 2.4 2.4 Poloxamer 124 (dispersant) - - 2.5 (mp) : raw material

At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A to C is mixed with 1 time ½ their weight of water at 100°C.

Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair. 10g of mixture are used per g of hair.

After 1 hour on plates thermostated at 33°C, the hair is rinsed and dried.

The viscosity of the composition before mixing with water is evaluated at t=0 and after 2 months of storage at room temperature and after 2 months of storage at 45°C. The measurement was performed using a Rheomat RM200 type viscometer. The cream is placed in a cup thermostated at 20°C. A unit of deviation (UD) is measured using a type 4 mobile with a speed of 200 rpm for 30 seconds.

The mixing time of the composition with the water is evaluated. This time is measured using a stopwatch started when mixing begins. The stopwatch is stopped when the mixture is homogeneous and smooth.

The compositions are stored for 2 months at room temperature and at 45°C. Then, the viscosity of compositions A to C is evaluated according to the method described above.

Results

Compositions A and C according to the invention required a shorter mixing time compared with comparative composition B which did not comprise a dispersing agent.

Composition Viscosity (centipoise) Mixing time (second) stability A (invention) 16050 50 steady B (comparative) 19100 80 steady VS (invention) 14175 60 steady

Comparative tests 2:

Compositions D (invention) and E (comparative) were prepared. The proportions of the ingredients are indicated in grams of active material per 100 grams of composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Ingredients D
(inv) E
(count) Henna powder (HQ HENNA marketed by KANCOR) 14 14 Powder of tinctoria indigofera leaves (HQ INDIGO marketed by KANCOR) 36
(pm) 36
(pm) 12-Hydroxy-Stearic Acid Oligomer Stearate (DISPERSUNDSPOL-300 by INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS) (INCI name: POLYHYDROXYSTEARIC ACID) (dispersant) 2.5 - Colza oil 46 48.5 Glycerol benehate/ Glycerol dibehenate/ Glycerol tribeneate (fat phase thickener) 0.5 0.5 sodium lauroyl glutamate 1 1 (mp) : raw material

At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions D and E is mixed with 1 time ½ their weight of water at 100°C.

Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of natural hair containing 90% white hair, at the rate of 10 g of mixture per g of hair.

After 1 hour on plates thermostated at 33°C, the hair is rinsed and dried.

The evaluations of viscosity, mixing time and stability are carried out following the same protocols as those described previously for comparative tests 1.

Results

Composition D according to the invention required a shorter mixing time and showed greater stability in comparison with comparative composition E not comprising polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids.

Composition Viscosity (centipoise) Mixing time (second) stability D (invention) 11830 30 steady E (comparative ) 21450 60 steady

Claims (17)

Composition comprising:
- a powder of at least one colorant;
- at least one dispersing agent;
- at least 10% by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition;
- at least fatty phase thickener. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the natural dye(s) is (are) chosen from lawsone, henna extracts and/or powders, indigo, indigo plant extracts and/or powders and /or mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the natural colorant(s) are in the form of powders and dispersed in the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of natural dye(s) varies from 30 to 98% by weight, preferably from 40 to 95% by weight, better still from 45 to 90% by weight , relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersing agent(s) is (are) chosen from polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids, preferably from polymers of hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 20 carbon atoms and/or its salts, preferably from polymers of 12-hydroxystearic acid and/or its salts. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the polymer(s) of hydroxylated fatty acids is (are) obtained from esters of hydroxylated fatty acid(s), preferably from esters of hydroxystearic acid, in particular 12-hydroxystearic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 5 or 6, in which the polymer(s) of hydroxylated fatty acids are obtained from esters of hydroxylated fatty acids and non-hydroxylated C ₄ to C ₂₀ fatty acids, of preferably from C ₈ to C ₂₀ , preferably from esters of polyhydroxystearic acid and non-hydroxylated C ₄ to C ₂₀ fatty acid, preferably from C ₈ to C ₂₀ . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 5 to 7, in which the polymer or polymers of hydroxylated fatty acids are chosen from polymers of esters of hydroxylated fatty acids, preferably from oligomers of esters of hydroxy- 12 stearic acid and C ₈ to C ₂₀ fatty acid such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid oligomer stearate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of dispersing agent(s) varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 12% by weight, better still from 0 1 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil or oils is (are) chosen from oils of plant origin, preferably from avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, canola oil and mixtures thereof, most preferably from coconut oil, canola oil and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of oil(s) is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the total quantity of oil(s) ) ranges from 10 to 85% by weight, more particularly from 15 to 80% by weight, preferably from 20 to 75% by weight, better still from 25 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase thickener(s) is (are) chosen from organic fatty phase thickeners, preferably chosen from mono- or saccharide or polysaccharide polyalkyl ester such as dextrin palmitate, C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acid esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably mono-, di- or triesters of acids C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids and polyols, more particularly C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono-, di- or triesters, preferably C ₁₈ -C _{24 fatty} acid esters, and glycerol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total quantity of fatty phase thickeners varies from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from (C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl sulphates, acylglutamates, in the form of alkali or alkaline metal salts -earth, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium cetostearyl sulphate, sodium lauroylglutamate and mixtures thereof. Process for dyeing human keratin fibres, in which the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to the fibres. Dyeing process according to the preceding claim, in which a composition ( C ) is applied, obtained by mixing a composition ( A ) according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 and at least one composition ( B ), preferably, watery. Coloring process according to the preceding claim, in which the mixture of the compositions ( A ) and ( B ) is preferably carried out less than 30 min before application, preferably less than 15 min before application, better still less than 10 min before application, or even less 5 minutes before application. Better still, the mixture of the compositions ( A ) and ( B ) is an extemporaneous mixture at the time of use.