FR3002440A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER NANOEMULSION INTENDED FOR THE DIRECT COLORING OF KERATIN FIBERS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising, one or more direct dye (s), one or more surfactant (s), one or more fatty substances and some water. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the direct dyeing of keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion for the direct dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion for direct dyeing of keratinous fibers. human keratin fibers such as the hair. More specifically, the subject of the present invention is a coloring cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising, one or more direct dyes, one or more surfactant (s), one or more fatty substances and water. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for the direct dyeing of keratinous fibers.

Finally, the present invention relates to a process for the direct dyeing of keratin fibers using the composition according to the invention. For a long time, many people seek to change the color of their hair, including coloring for example to hide their white hair. To color human keratin fibers, there are mainly two methods. The first type of coloration is so-called permanent or oxidation coloration, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.

It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. The second type of staining is so-called semipermanent staining or direct staining, which consists of applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for said fibers, to be allowed to pause and then to rinse them. In order to perform these stains, the direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes. These dyes may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

The compositions containing one or more direct dye (s) are applied to the keratinous fibers for a time necessary to obtain the desired coloration, and then rinsed. The resulting colorations are generally chromatic colorations, which are however temporary or semi-permanent because the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratinous fiber, and their desorption of the surface and / or the core of the fiber are responsible for their lesser dyeing power and less resistance to washing or perspiration. In order to improve the performance of direct dyeing processes for human keratin fibers, it has been proposed to use in the dyeing compositions a substantial amount of one or more fatty substances. However, the direct dyeing compositions of the prior art are not entirely satisfactory, and their properties are likely to be improved, in particular in terms of the qualities of use, particularly in terms of texture and ease of application and ease of use. spreading on the hair, and in terms of dyeing qualities especially in terms of intensity, homogeneity and selectivity of the coloring obtained.

The Applicant has now discovered that the use of one or more direct dyes in an oil-in-water nanoemulsion makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition intended for the direct dyeing of keratin fibers, making it possible to remedy the above disadvantages and having improved properties. The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising one or more direct dye (s), one or more surfactant (s), one or more body (s). fat and water.

The composition according to the invention has very good qualities of use, and in particular a particularly pleasant texture. In addition, it is easy to apply and spread on the locks of hair, especially on the roots. In addition, it does not run and remains well located at the application points and spreads easily from the roots to the tips. Finally, the composition according to the invention has a superior quality of coloration, especially in terms of intensity, homogeneity and selectivity of the coloration obtained. Other features and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. According to the invention, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion. By "oil-in-water nanoemulsion" is meant according to the present invention a true emulsion, that is to say a thermodynamically unstable dispersion of oil droplets in a continuous aqueous phase. The nanoemulsions are to be distinguished from microemulsions which are thermodynamically stable dispersions in the form of micelles of oil-swollen surfactants, and which form spontaneously by simple mixing of the constituents, without substantial energy input. The average number of oil droplets, in the nanoemulsions according to the invention, is advantageously less than or equal to 200 nm, more preferably less than or equal to 150 nm, and more preferably less than or equal to 100 nm. In a particularly preferred manner, the average number-size of the oil droplets of the nanoemulsion according to the invention ranges from 10 to 90 nm, better still from 20 to 80 nm and more preferably from 40 to 60 nm. The average particle size of the particles can be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering. As an apparatus usable for this determination, mention may be made of the BROOKHAVEN branded apparatus equipped with an SX 200 optical bench (with a 532 nm laser), and a BI 9000 correlator. This apparatus provides a measurement of the diameter. medium by photon correlation spectroscopy (or PCS: "Photon Correlation Spectroscopy") which allows to determine the number average diameter from the polydispersity factor also measured by the device. The nanoemulsion can also be characterized by NTU turbidity measurement using a HACH Company model 2100P turbidimeter at room temperature. The turbidity of the nanoemulsions of the invention is generally less than 400 NTU units, and preferably between 50 and 250 NTU units. A nanoemulsion generally has a bluish or translucent transparent appearance, in the absence of additional opacifying compound (s) or pearlescent (s).

In the compositions according to the invention, the reduction in the size of the oil globules makes it possible in particular to promote the penetration of the active ingredients into the keratin materials, for example through the superficial layers of the hair (vehicle effect).

As indicated above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more direct dye (s). The direct dye (s) may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

By synthetic direct dye is meant any direct dye which does not exist in the natural state, including the dyes resulting from the semisynthesis. As examples of suitable synthetic direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; xanthenics; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; the (metallo) porphyrins; and phthalocyanines, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, the synthetic azo direct dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = N- is engaged in a cycle. By way of example of azo direct dyes, mention may be made of the following dyes, described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd Edition: - Disperse Red 17 - Basic Red 22 - Basic Red 76 20 - Basic Yellow 57 - Basic Brown 16 - Basic Brown 17 - Disperse Black 9. The direct dyes of the family of methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence selected from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a cycle. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the methine dyes are derived from methine, azomethine, hydrazono, mono- and diarylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, (hemi) cyanines such as styryl dyes, streptocyanines, carbocyanines, azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, tetraazacarbocyanines such as tetraazapentamethines, and their optical and geometric isomers. Among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in the patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR-2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073. Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: - 2-13-hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis - ((3-4 "-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino-1,4-benzoquinone-2-13-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone-3-N- (2'-chloro) 4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3-N- (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine 344'-N- (Ethyl, carbamylmethyl) -amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

Among the tetraazapentamethine type dyes that may be used according to the invention, the following compounds appearing in the table below may be mentioned: ## EQU1 ## OMe -1 \ 1NNNN OMe 1/1 1/1 N., - 1 N 1 \ 1 + 1 1 1 X 11 + NNNN OH X /. N 'TO \ 1 N, OH /. ## EQU1 ##, ## STR2 ##, ## STR2 ## Wherein X represents an anion, preferably chosen from chloride, and wherein X represents an anion chosen preferably from chloride. iodide, methyl sulphate, ethyl sulphate, acetate and perchlorate For example, the synthetic direct dyes of the carbonyl family include dyes chosen from quinone, acridone, benzoquinone and anthraquinone. naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, i soindolinone, b enzimidazolone, i soquinolone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine Examples of quinone direct dyes that may be mentioned are: - Disperse Red 15 - Solvent Violet 13 - Disperse Viole t 1 - Disperse Violet 4 - Disperse Blue 1 - Disperse Violet 8 - Disperse Blue 3 - Disperse Red 11 - Disperse Blue 7 - Basic Blue 22 - Disperse Violet 15 - Basic Blue 99 as well as the following compounds: -1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino 4-hydroxyanthraquinone-1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone-1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone-5-13-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone-2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone-1,4-bis-((3,7-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone. Regarding the synthetic direct dyes of the family of azines, mention may be made in particular of azine, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine. By way of example of azine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Blue 17 - Basic Red 2. With regard to synthetic direct dyes of the xanthene family, mention may be made in particular of xanthene, thioxanthene and pyronine. Nitrate (hetero) aryl synthetic direct dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or pyridine nitro direct dyes. Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in a nonlimiting manner: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene-1 2-Amino nitro-4-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene-1,4-bis (13-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene-1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis- ((3- hydroxyethylamino) -benzene-l, 3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene-l, 3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (13-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene-1-amino-3-methyl 4-13-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-nitro-4-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene-1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5- nitrobenzene - 1,2-bis - ((3-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-tris- (hydroxymethyl) methylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene-1 -Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene-1-13-hy hydroxyethyloxy-2-13-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-methoxy-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-p-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-13,7-dihydroxypropyloxy-3- methylamino-4-nitrobenzene-l, 3-hydroxyethylamino-4-13,7-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene-l, 3, 7-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene-l, 3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl; 2-Nitrobenzene-l, 3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene-1-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1 Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-6-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3-nitrobenzene-1-P-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-4 -P-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Green 1 - Basic Violet 3 - Basic Purple 14 - Basic Blue 7 - Basic Blue 26 Concerning synthetic direct dyes of (metallo) porphyrin or phthalocyanine type it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. By way of examples of particularly suitable synthetic direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, and porphyrins, alone or in mixtures. These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric, preferably di- or tri-chromophoric dyes; the chromophores which may be identical or different, of the same chemical family or not. Note that a polychromophoric dye comprises several groups each derived from an absorbing molecule in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. In addition, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or association with other (s) species (s) chemical (s). In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are connected to each other by means of at least one linking arm BL, which may or may not be cationic.

Preferably, the linker BL is a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted and / or terminated by at least i) a heteroatom (such as nitrogen N (R), N + R , R ', Q-, oxygen or sulfur), ii) a group C (O), C (S), S (O), S (O) 2 or iii) their combination, possibly interrupted by at least a heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one a substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C1-C1 alkyl groups; the linking arm not comprising a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group, with R and R ', which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably by at least one hydroxyl group; and Q represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate. If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are substituted with, for example, one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or substituted amino group. one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group or both groups being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another heteroatom identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy group; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group. According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the dye (s) are chosen from (poly) azo dyes such as (di) azo; hydrazono; (poly) methines such as styryl; anthraquinones or naphthalimides. Preferably, these dyes are (poly) cationic. According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, the dyes are chosen from cationic dyes called "basic dyes". Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (I) and (I '), the azo compounds (II) and (II') and the following diazo compounds (III): formulas (I), (I '), (II), (II ') and (III) with: - Het + representing a cationic heteroaryl group, preferably with endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferably with one or more C1-C8 alkyl groups such as methyl; - Ar + representing an aryl group, such as phenyl or naphthyl, exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium particularly tri (C1-C8 alkyl) ammonium such as trimethylammonium; Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more electron donor groups such as i) optionally substituted C1-C8 alkyl, ii) optionally substituted C1-C8 alkoxy, iii) (di) (lower alkyl), C1-C8) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group (s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl (C1-C8) alkylamino, (v) N- (C1-C8alkyl) -N-aryl (C1-C6alkyl) C8) optionally substituted amino or Ar represents a julolidine group; Het + -C (Ra) = NN (Rb) -Ar, Q- (I) Het + -N (Ra) -N = C (Rb) -Ar, Q- (I ') Het + -N = N-Ar, Q - (II) Ar + -N = N-Ar ", Q and Het + -N = N-Ar '(IF) -N = N-Ar, Q- (III) - Ar' is a divalent (hetero) arylene group optionally substituted, such as phenylene, especially para-phenylene, or naphthalene, optionally substituted, preferably with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxyl or C 1 -C 6 alkoxy groups; Ar "is an optionally substituted (hetero) aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably with one or more C1-C8 alkyl, hydroxyl, (di) (C1-C8) alkylamino, C1-C8 alkoxy or phenyl groups; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, preferably with a hydroxyl group; or alternatively, the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het + and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together with the atoms bearing them a (hetero) cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group; Q - represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate. In particular, the dyes of the invention are cationically charged, endocyclic, azo and hydrazono of formulas (I), (I ') and (II) as defined above. More particularly preferred are those of formula (I), (I ') and (II) described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954. Preferably, the dyes of the invention are chosen from the following compounds: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## R 2 (I-1) (II-1) formulas (I-1) and (II-1) in which: R 1 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group such as methyl; - R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl; and - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donor group such as optionally substituted C1-C8 alkyl, optionally substituted C1-C8 alkoxy, (di) (C1-C8) alkylamino optionally substituted on the alkyl group or groups; by a hydroxyl group; particularly R 4 is a hydrogen atom, - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH, - Q- is as defined above.

In particular, the dyes of formula (I-1) and (II-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives: H3C CH3 CH3 H3C CH3 Ni + I-13C + NijNi, NNN ## STR5 ## wherein Q-as defined above, and especially representing a halide such as a chloride, or an alkylsulfate such as methylsulfate or mesytyl. We may also mention 1- (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis- ((3-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene.

Among the polychromophoric dyes, mention may be made more particularly of azo and / or azomethine (hydrazonic) di- or trichromophoric dyes, symmetrical or not, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally fused, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, optionally bearing at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N (R ') 2 group with R 'being identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C 1 -C 6 alkyl group or an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the groups R 'being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, or else one and / or both R' groups may each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic ring placed in ortho of the nitrogen atom, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle.

As aromatic cationic heterocycle, there may be mentioned, preferably, 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being optionally further fused to a benzene ring. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom different from nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen. If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are substituted with, for example, one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl groups optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group. substituted with one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups, optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, or the two groups which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising a another heteroatom that is the same or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy group; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group. These polychromophores are interconnected by means of at least one connecting arm BL as defined above. The bond between the linker BL and each chromophore is generally by means of a heteroatom which substitutes the phenyl or naphthyl ring or by means of the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle. The dye may comprise identical or different chromophores. By way of examples of such dyes, reference may especially be made to the patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220, EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 06/063866, WO 06/063867, WO 06/063868, WO 06/063869, EP 1408919, EP 1377264, EP 1377262, EP 1377261, EP 1377263, EP 1399425, EP 1399117, EP 1416909, EP 1399116, EP 1671560. can also also use cationic synthetic direct dyes cited in applications EP 1006153, which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone chromophores connected by means of a cationic linker; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected by a cationic or non-cationic linking arm, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are connected two azo-type chromophores or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers. By natural dyes is meant any dye or dye precursor having a natural occurrence, which is produced either by extraction (and optionally purification) from a plant or animal matrix, optionally in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia either by chemical synthesis. As natural dyes, lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophylline, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurine, purporogalline, indigo, purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglone, bixin, betanine, quercetin, chromenic dyes and chromanic dyes including haemainein, braziline, and laccaic acids. Preferably, the natural dyes used in the invention are chosen from curcumin, chlorophylline, chromenic dyes, chromanic dyes and laccaic acids. According to the invention, the term "chromenic or chromanic dye" means dyes which comprise in their structure at least one bicycle of the following formula (IV): IV the intracyclic bond representing a single carbon-carbon bond or a carbon-carbon double bond as illustrated by the formula IV-1 designating the family of chromenes and the formula IV-2 denoting the family of chromanes below: IV-1 IV-2 More particularly, the dyes having in their structure a bicycle of formula (IV) are chosen from dyes of the following formulas: - formula (V), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula IV-2, HO (V) in which: i) represents a single carbon-carbon bond or a double bond carbon-carbon, the linking of these bonds designates two simple carbon-carbon bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said bonds being conjugated, ii) X represents a group: // HO-C or O = C iii) Ri. , R2, R3, R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, an optionally substituted alkyl group, optionally substituted alkoxy, or an optionally substituted acyloxy group, as well as its tautomeric forms and and / or mesomers, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable acid or base, and its hydrates; and - formula (VI), comprising in its structure the bicycle of formula IV-1: R15 (VI) in which: R11, R12, R13, R16, R19 and R20, which are identical or different, represent independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, - R14, R15, R17 and R18, which may be identical or different, represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkoxy group as well as its tautomeric and / or mesomeric forms, its stereoisomers, its addition salts with a cosmetically acceptable acid or base, and its hydrates. Regarding the dyes of formula (V) as defined above, these can be in two tautomeric forms (Va) and (Vb): HO HO The alkyl groups mentioned in the preceding definitions of the substituents are hydrocarbon groups, saturated , linear or branched, generally C 1 -C 20, particularly C 1 -C 10, preferably C 1 -C 6, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl. The alkoxy groups are alkyl-oxy groups with the alkyl groups as defined above, and preferably the alkoxy groups are C1-C10, such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy. The alkyl or alkoxy groups, when substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent carried by at least one carbon atom, chosen from: a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy group; a C 1 -C 10 alkoxycarbonyl group; a (C 1 -C 4) (poly) hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; a 5- or 6-membered heterocycloalkyl group; a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl group, preferentially imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group, preferably methyl; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups optionally bearing at least: a hydroxyl group; an amino group optionally substituted with one or two optionally substituted C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups; , said alkyl groups being able to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, an optionally substituted 5 to 7-membered heterocyclic ring, saturated or unsaturated, optionally comprising at least one other heteroatom which may or may not be different from nitrogen, quaternary ammonium -N + R'R "R '", M- for which R', R ", R" ', which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and M represents the counterion of the organic acid, mineral or of the corresponding halide, or a 5- or 6-membered optionally cationic heteroaryl group, preferably imidazolium, and optionally substituted with a (C 1 -C 4) alkyl group, preferably entirely methyl; - an acylamino group (-NR-COR ') in which the group R is a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the group R' is a group C1-C2 alkyl; a carbamoyl group ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group; an alkylsulphonylamino group (R'SO 2 -NR-) in which the R group represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group and the R 'group represents an alkyl group; C1-C4, phenyl; an aminosulphonyl group ((R) 2 N -SO 2 -) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group optionally carrying at least one hydroxyl group, - a group carboxylic acid in acid or salified form (preferably with an alkali metal or an ammonium, substituted or not); a cyano group; a nitro group; a carboxy or glycosylcarbonyl group; a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; a glycosyloxy group; and a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

By glycosyl group is meant a group derived from a mono or polysaccharide. Preferably, the alkyl or alkoxy groups of the formula (V) are unsubstituted.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dyes of formula (V) comprise a group R6 representing a hydroxyl group. In a preferred variant X represents a group 0 = C.

Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to the dyes of formula (V), for which the group R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group. More particularly, the dyes of formula (V) are chosen from haematein and brazilein.

Braziline is a conjugated form of a chroman compound of formula IV-2. We find in the diagram below the tautomeric structures (Va) and (Vb) illustrated above. OO HO HO HO Hemeinine Braziléine HO OH HO HO BRAZEINE AND HEMEREINE OR HEMATOXYLINE / HEMATINE AND BRAZILINE / BRAZEINE COUPLEMENTS MAY BE OBTAINED BY SYNTHESIS OR BY EXTRACTING PLANTS OR PLANTS KNOWN TO BE RICH IN THESE DYES . The dyes of formula (V) can be used in the form of extracts. The following plant extracts (genus and species) may be used: Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinosa, and Caesalpina Brasiliensis. The extracts are obtained by extraction of various parts of plants, such as, for example, the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the natural formula dyes (V) are derived from logwood, pernambuco wood, sappan wood and brazil wood. The salts of the dyes of formula (V) and (VI) of the invention may be cosmetically acceptable salts of acids or bases. The acids can be mineral or organic. Preferably, the acid is hydrochloric acid leading to the chlorides. The bases can be mineral or organic. Especially the bases are alkali hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide leading to sodium salts. Preferably, the dye (s) of formula (V) and (VI) included in the composition according to the invention are derived from plant extracts. It is also possible to use mixtures of plant extracts. The natural extracts of the dyes according to the invention can be in the form of powders or liquids. Preferably, the extracts are in powder form. In another variant of the invention, the natural dyes are chosen from laccaic acids. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "laccanic acid" means a compound having in its structure a unit of the following type: ## STR2 ## Preferably, the laccalic acids of the invention have the following formula (VII): OH 0 (VII) with R 1 denoting a phenyl group substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and preferably with a hydroxyl group advantageously in the ortho position with respect to the bond attached to the fused rings. In particular, the phenyl group of R1 comprises, in addition to a hydroxyl group, at least one -CH2R2 group, R2 denoting an acetamidomethyl (CH3CONHCH2-), hydroxymethyl (HOCH2-), 2-amino acetic acid (HO2C (NH2) CH-) group. . Preferably, the laccaic acids of the invention are chosen from laccaic acids A, B, C and D or their mixtures and more particularly chosen from A, B or C, or mixtures thereof. ## STR5 ## Laccaic acid A Acidic acid B Acidic acid C Acidic acid DG: -CH2CH2OH G: -CH2CH (NH2) C (O) OH G: -CH2CH2NH2 Aaccaic acid A, B, C and As the laccal acids according to the invention, it is possible to use the dye CI Natural Red 25, CI 75450, CAS-60687-93-6, often called laccaic acid. It is a naturally occurring dye derived from the secretions of an insect, the Coccus laccae (Lacifer Lacca Kerr), which is usually found on the twigs of some native trees in Southeast Asia.

The CI Natural Red 25 generally contains two major constituents in its composition: laccaic acid A and laccaic acid B. It may also contain less of laccaic acid C. It is of course also possible to use the purified forms laccaic acids of formula (VII). Even more preferentially, the natural direct dyes are chosen from haematein and brazilein. The direct dye (s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. In one variant of the invention, the compositions do not comprise oxidation dyes. The composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactant (s), which may be chosen in particular from nonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The surfactant (s) according to the invention preferably comprise one or more nonionic surfactant (s). The nonionic surfactant (s) usable in the present composition are described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.

By way of examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following nonionic surfactants: oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; saturated or unsaturated C8-C40 alcohols, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, and having one or two fatty chains; linear or branched, oxyalkylenated saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 fatty acid amides; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; esters of sucrose fatty acids, (C 8 -C 30) alkyls (poly) glycosides, (C 8 -C 30) alkenyl (poly) glycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 units; glucose, (C8-C30) alkyl esters (poly) glucosides, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; derivatives of N-alkyl (C8-C30) glucamine and N-acyl (C8-C30) methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones, and mixtures thereof. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide is preferably from 1 to 250, more preferably from 2 to 100; better from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges from 1 to 50, more preferably from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise oxypropylene units. By way of example of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used. . By way of example of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, and alcohol. oleic acid with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, alcohol 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 / C 10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C 10 / C 12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C 15 alcohol with mole of glycerol.

The at least one nonionic surfactant (s) according to the invention is preferably chosen from: - C 8 -C 40 oxyethylenated alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more preferably from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and having one or two fatty chains; saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50; - C8-C30 alkyls (poly) glycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 0E) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units; mono-or poly-glycerolated C -C alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol; - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, the agent (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s) according to the invention are selected from: - alcohols C8-C40, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenés and comprising one or two fatty chains, especially ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol; (C8-C30) alkyls (poly) glycosides, especially caprylyl / capryl glucoside; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols and in particular PEG-8 isostearate; - and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactant (s). The term "cationic surfactant" means a surfactant positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more positive permanent charges or contain one or more cationizable functions within the composition according to the invention. The cationic surfactant (s) is (are) preferably chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, for example: those corresponding to the following general formula (VIII): ## STR3 ## in which the groups R 8 to R 11, which can be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, X having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, (C1-C30) alkylamide, (C2-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, ( C12-C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VIII), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, in particular the behenyltrimethylammonium, di stearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylceararyl ammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium salts; sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by VAN DYK. It is particularly preferred to use the chloride salts of its compounds. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (IX) below: R 13 N C 12 -C 12 -N (R 15) -CO-R 2 N N CC H 2 H (IX) in which R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyls or alkylaryl-sulphonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary di or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (X): ## STR2 ## in which about 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxyl and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) ( R17a) (R18a) N7 (CH2) 3, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates. Such compounds are, for example, the Finquat CT-P proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 89), the Finquat CT proposed by Finetex (Quaternium 75), the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (XI): ## STR2 ## wherein: C1-C6 and hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups C1-C6; R 23 is chosen from: 0 - the group R 26 - the R 27 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 17 C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: O II - the R 28 group C- - R29 groups which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C17 C6 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from C7-hydrocarbon groups; C21, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon R 27 group, it may be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 .

The anion X- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

Ammonium salts of formula (XI) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, are used more particularly in the composition according to the invention; z is 0 or 1; r, s and t are 2; R23 is selected from O - the group R26 C- - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, - the hydrogen atom; R 25 is selected from: 0 - the group - the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups; . Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (XI) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains R28 several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids. plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methanesulfonate. methyl, para-toluenesulfonate methyl, chlorohydrin glycol or glycerol. Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO. The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride proposed by KAO can be used under the name Quatarmin BTC 131. Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions. Of the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one useful ester group, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts. The cationic surfactants are preferably chosen from those of formula (VIII) and those of formula (XI), and even more preferably from those of formula (VIII).

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more anionic surfactant (s). The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from -COOH, -SO3H, -OSO3H, -PO2H2, -PO2H-, -P (OH) 2, = P (O) OH, -P (OH) O-, = P groups. (0) 0-, = POH, = PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoester salts alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl.

When the anionic surfactant (s) are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, sodium salts or ammonium, salts of amines and in particular of aminoalcohols or salts of alkaline earth metals such as magnesium salts. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxy-methyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used. Of the abovementioned anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use (C 6 -C 24) alkyl sulphates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal or ammonium salts. , aminoalcohols, and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. In particular, it is preferred to use (C 12 -C 20) alkyl sulphates, C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, aminoalcohol , and alkaline earth metals, or a mixture of these compounds. More preferably, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactant (s) amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s). In particular, the amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic (s) surfactant (s), preferably non-silicone surfactants, that may be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the Aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate group, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate.

Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamidalkyl (C 6 -C 8) alkylamines. C8) sulphobetaines. Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which may be used, as defined above, there may also be mentioned the compounds of respective structures (XII) and (XIII): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (R) ) - CH2C00-, M +, X- (XII) Formula wherein: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group , nonyl or undecyl; Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and - R, represents a carboxymethyl group; M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulphates, (C 1 -C 4) alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methylsulphate and ethylsulphate; or else M + and X- are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (XIII) Formula wherein: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; B 'represents the group - (CH2) zY', with z = 1 or 2; X 'represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', CH2CH2COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom; Y 'represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', CH2CH (OH) SO3H or the group -CH2CH (OH) SO3Z '; Z 'represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra 'represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra'-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 group and its iso form; unsaturated C17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate di sodium, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. It is also possible to use compounds of formula (XIV); Wherein "Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ ", -CH2- CH (OH) SO 3 H or the group --CH 2 CH (OH) SO 3 - Z - Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical - Z "represents a counterion cationic agent derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra "represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of a Ra" -COOH acid, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (XIV), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB. These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures. Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of alkyl (C 8 -C 20) betaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 3 -C 8) alkyl betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and their mixtures, the compounds of formula (XIV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Among all the surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use one or more nonionic surfactant (s). In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic surfactant (s) and one or more cationic surfactant (s).

In general, the agent (s) surfactant (s) represent from 1 to 50%, preferably from 5 to 40%, better from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances.

By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5% and preferably of 1%, even more preferentially at 0.1%). The fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances of the invention preferably do not contain salified carboxylic acid groups.

In particular, the fatty substances of the invention are not oxyalkylenated or glycerolated ethers. By "oil" is meant a "fat" which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C), and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 1,013.105 Pa).

The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil containing no silicon atom (Si) and a "silicone oil" an oil containing at least one silicon atom. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, vegetable or synthetic oils of the triglyceride type, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol different from triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes different from fatty alcohols, silicones, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30, more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. With regard to the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic and preferably are selected from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, are preferably chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such than Parleam®. As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil or corn oil. , soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

Preferably, the triglyceride oils of vegetable origin will be used. The fluorinated oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; . With regard to the esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric aliphatic mono or poly acid esters and of mono or saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and of di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkyls, such as methyl derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri-, and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-poly ester; the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSE.

The non-silicone wax (es) different from the fatty alcohols are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes. such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax , or modified beeswax (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. The at least one fatty substance according to the invention may be chosen from silicones. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Preferably, the silicone (s) are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups. Silicones are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. The volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from silicones having a boiling point ranging from 60 ° C. to 260 ° C., and more particularly still silicones chosen from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula: ## STR5 ## with D ': CH3 mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1 , 1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane, (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class are also described in the published article. in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". The non-volatile silicones that may be used according to the invention may preferably be non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups, and mixtures thereof. . The organomodified silicones that may be used according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiaryl siloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance (s) are chosen from liquid compounds at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure. The fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C 6 -C 16 alkanes, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, alcohols fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty substance or fats are chosen from linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, and in particular liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene, C6-alkanes. C16, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. In general, the fatty substance or fats may represent from 1 to 60%, preferably from 2 to 50%, better still from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, and very preferably from 10 to 20% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises water which advantageously represents from 1 to 95%, preferably from 20 to 80%, more preferably from 40 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may further comprise one or more water-soluble organic solvent (s) (solubility greater than or equal to 5% in water at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure). As water-soluble organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of monoalcohols or diols, linear or branched, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexylene glycol ( 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), neopentylglycol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, butyleneglycol, dipropyleneglycol, propyleneglycol; aromatic alcohols such as phenylethyl alcohol; polyols with more than two hydroxyl functions such as glycerol; polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether; as well as diethylene glycol alkyl ethers, especially C 1 -C 4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture. The water-soluble organic solvents, when they are present, generally represent between 1 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, and preferably between 5 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more alkaline agent (s).

The agent (s) alkaline (s) are chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates, organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C is less than 12, and in particular less than 10, more advantageously less than 6; Among the salts of the amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid, it should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. Preferably, the amines are chosen from alkanolamines, comprising in particular a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals; among the oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, among the amino acids and compounds of the following formula: ## STR3 ## in which W is a C 1 -C 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or an alkyl radical; in C1-C6; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl. According to one embodiment of the invention, the dye composition is used in the presence of ammonia and / or at least one alkanolamine and / or at least one basic amino acid, more preferably ammonia and or at least one alkanolamine, such as monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the content of alkaline agent (s) varies from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight. of the dyeing composition. Note that this content is expressed in NH3 in the case where the alkaline agent is ammonia. The pH of the composition of the invention preferably ranges from 1.5 to 12, more preferably from 2 to 11, more preferably from 3 to 10. It can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents such as hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, as well as carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, or sulfonic acids. Alkaline agents such as those mentioned above can also be used.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic adjuvant (s). For example, it may comprise one or more conventional additive (s) well known in the art, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, anti-hair loss agents, solid fatty substances other than those mentioned above, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, opacifying agents antioxidants, hydroxyacids, pearlescent agents, perfumes and preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional compound (s) complement (s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not affected by the proposed addition (s). The above additives can generally be present in an amount for each of them ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more oxidizing agent (s). The composition according to the invention then has, in addition to its coloring properties, lightening properties. Advantageously, the oxidizing agent (s) that may be used in the composition of the invention are chemical oxidizing agents different from oxygen in the air. The at least one oxidizing agent (s) is preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and the percarbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals and more particularly, hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing agent (s) may represent from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may especially be in the form of fluid or thickened liquids, gels or creams. The nanoemulsions according to the invention may be prepared by mixing the water, the fatty substance (s) and the surfactant (s), with vigorous stirring, at a temperature preferably between a temperature close to 20 ° C. ° C and 45 ° C, followed by one or more high pressure homogenization step (s), that is to say a pressure preferably greater than or equal to 5.107 Pa, and preferably ranging from 6.107 to The shear preferably ranges from 2 × 10 6 s -1 to 5 × 10 8 s -1, and more preferably from 1 × 10 8 s -1 to 3 × 10 8 s -1.

According to a preferred embodiment of the nanoemulsions according to the invention, several successive steps of homogenization at high pressure as described above are carried out. The nanoemulsions according to the invention can also be prepared, using a ternary phase diagram (fatty substance / surfactant / water), previously established, according to the following method: (i) stirring mixture of one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactant (s), at a temperature Tm and at normal atmospheric pressure; (ii) Addition of water with stirring, so as to reach the nanoemulsion zone, previously identified by means of the ternary phase diagram; (iii) Cooling the composition to room temperature. The addition of the water-soluble ingredients such as direct dyes or any oxidizing agents is at the end of step (ii) or after step (iii). The temperature Tm is preferably between 20 and 100 ° C, more preferably between 20 and 85 ° C. It should be noted that the particle size of the nanoemulsion is preserved during and after this cooling. The invention also relates to the use of the composition as described above for coloring, in particular for the direct dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair. Another subject of the invention is a method for direct dyeing of keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition as defined according to the invention. In a first embodiment of the invention, the method for dyeing keratinous fibers consists of applying the composition according to the invention as described above to the keratinous fibers. According to a second embodiment of the invention, the method for dyeing keratinous fibers consists of applying the composition as described above to the keratinous fibers, said composition being applied sequentially or simultaneously with an oxidizing composition. comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s). This method makes it possible to carry out direct dyeing under lightening conditions. The oxidizing agent (s) may be chosen in particular from those described above. They may represent from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition containing them. In a first variant of the second embodiment above, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with an oxidizing composition as described above. In a second variant of the second embodiment above, the composition according to the invention is applied to the keratinous fibers before or after an oxidizing composition as described above.

The method according to the invention can be repeated several times in order to obtain the desired coloration. Whatever the embodiment used, the composition (s) described (s) previously, are applied to the keratinous fibers dry or wet.

The composition (s) are usually left in place on the fibers for a duration generally ranging from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically between 20 ° C and 80 ° C, preferably between 20 ° C and 60 ° C.

At the end of the treatment, the human keratinous fibers are advantageously rinsed with water. They can optionally be washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry. The following examples are given purely by way of illustration of the present invention. EXAMPLE 1 A cosmetic composition A in the form of a nanoemulsion was prepared, according to the invention, from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): Composition A amount (in g) Basic Yellow 87 0.3 Basic Orange 31 0.225 PEG-8 isostearate 13.5 Ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol 3 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 15 PEG-8 1.5 Ethanolamine 4 Water qs 100g The nanoemulsion of composition A above was obtained from the knowledge of the ternary diagram of surfactant phases / hydrogenated polyisobutene / water. The mixture of surfactants and hydrogenated polyisobutene of the composition according to the invention above was brought to a temperature of 60 ° C. and then the mixture was diluted with water of the formula at the same temperature. The composition is finally cooled to room temperature (20 to 25 ° C). The water-soluble compounds whose direct dyes are added after the addition of water or after cooling to room temperature are added. A nanoemulsion is obtained in which the size of the oil globules measured by quasi-elastic light scattering is less than 100 nm. This composition is storage stable for at least 2 months at room temperature and at 45 ° C.

Composition A is mixed at the time of use with an oxidizing composition B in the following proportions: 10 g of composition A according to the invention and 10 g of oxidizing composition B.

Composition B Amount (in g) Tocopherol 0.1 Sodium stannate 0.04 Pentasodium pentate 0.06 Polyquaternium-6 0.2 Cetearyl alcohol 6 Hexamethrin Chloride 0.15 Glycerine 0.5 Hydrogen peroxide 6 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.03 Mineral oil 20 Rapeseed amide 4 PEG 1,19 Steareth-20 5 Phosphoric acid qsp pH 2,2 Water qs 100g The mixture obtained is applied to locks at the rate of 10g of mixture per 1 g of hair. The Applicant finds that the composition according to the example above has very good qualities of use, especially a particularly pleasant texture. The composition according to the above example was applied to locks of hair. The Applicant finds that the mixture resulting from the composition according to the invention is easy to apply and to distribute on the locks of hair. In addition, it spreads easily from the roots to the tips. The composition is left in place for 30 minutes. The hair is then rinsed, washed with standard shampoo and dried. Said composition makes it possible to obtain a hair color, coppery, judged to be very satisfactory visually.

EXAMPLE 2 A cosmetic composition C in the form of a nanoemulsion is prepared, according to the invention, from the ingredients indicated in the table below (in which the contents are indicated in grams of active material): Composition C quantity (in g) Basic Red 51 0.5 PEG-8 isostearate 13.5 Ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol 3 Polyisobutene hydrogenated PEG-8 1.5 Ethanolamine 4 Water qs 100g It can be used for direct dyeing of keratin fibers without mixing with a chemical oxidant different from the oxygen in the air.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising one or more direct dye (s), one or more surfactant (s), one or more fatty substances and water. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the direct dye (s) are (are) chosen from synthetic direct dyes and natural direct dyes. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said synthetic dyes are chosen nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, and porphyrins, alone or in mixtures. 4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said natural dyes are chosen from lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophylline, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurine, purporogalline, indigo, Tyr purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglone, bixin, betanine, quercetin, chromenic dyes and chromanic dyes, including hamein, braziline, and laccaic acids . 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dye (s) direct (s) represent (s) of 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.01 at 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of this composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said agent (s) surfactant (s) comprise one or more agent (s) surfactant (s) nonionic (s), preferably selected from oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols; - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated and having one or two fatty chains; - C8-C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols; - C8-C30 acid esters, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably oxyethylenated sorbitol; esters of fatty acids and of sucrose; alkyl (C 8 -C 30) (poly) glycosides, alkenyl (C 8 -C 30) (poly) glycosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl esters (C 8 -C 30 ) (poly) glucosides; vegetable oils oxyethylenated, saturated or not; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures; derivatives of N-alkyl (C8-C3o) glucamine and N-acyl (C8-C30) methylglucamine; aldobionamides; amine oxides; oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and their mixtures. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) non-ionic (s) are chosen from: - C8-C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated and having one or two fatty chains; - (C8-C30) alkyls (poly) glycosides; saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 acid esters of polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more cationic surfactant (s); preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formulas: - those corresponding to the following general formula (VIII): ## STR3 ## in which the groups R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4) alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4) alkyl or (C1-C4) alkylsulfonates; the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (IX) below: R 13 N C 12 -C 12 -N (R 15) -CO-R 12 N N CC H 2 H 2 in which R 12 represents an alkenyl group or alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl group or XX (IX) alkyl having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents an alkyl group C1-C4, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group; X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, 1 to 20 carbon atoms and 6 to 30 carbon atoms, respectively. carbon; the quaternary di or triammonium salts in particular of formula (X): in which 17 R19 2X- from 16 to 30 atoms R1,5-N- (CH2) 3-11 -R-21 (X) R18 R20 comprising about R16 denotes a hydroxyl and / or carbon alkyl radical optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R16a) ( R17a) (R18a) N- (CH2) 3, R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (XI): ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## R22 wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R 23 is chosen from: (XI) O - the group R 26 C- - the groups R 27 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based groups, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: II - the group R28 C- - the groups R29 which are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups C1-C6, - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, which are identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the agent (s) surfactant (s) cationic (s) are chosen from those of formula (VIII) and those of formula (XI), preferably from those of formula (VIII). 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said agent (s) surfactant (s) represent from 1 to 50%, preferably from 5 to 40%, better from 10 to 20% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, and non-silicone oils of animal origin. vegetable or synthetic oils of the triglyceride type, fluorinated oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters different from triglycerides and vegetable waxes, non-silicone waxes different from fatty alcohols, silicones , and their mixtures. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat or fats are chosen from liquid compounds at the temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, and in particular liquid petrolatum and hydrogenated polyisobutene, C 6 -C 16 alkanes, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol, liquid fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more said fatty substances represent from 1 to 60%, preferably from 2 to 50%, better still from 5 to 40% by weight, and still more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, very preferably 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more oxidizing agent (s). 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidizing agent (s) represent (s) from 0.01 to 20%, preferably from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 2 to 8% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. 17. A method for direct dyeing keratinous fibers consisting of the application on the keratinous fibers of: - the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16; - or the composition according to any one of claims 1 at 14, said composition being applied sequentially or simultaneously with an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agent (s).