FR3098115A1 - Cosmetic formulation - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic FORMulation [0001] The invention relates to a cosmetic formulation, characterized in that it comprises at least one grape extract and at least one pine extract.

Description

Cosmetic formulation

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetic care of the skin and appendages.

More specifically, the invention relates to a cosmetic formulation.

A number of definitions must be given.

The term “ mass percentage ” refers to the ratio of the mass of a first compound relative to the total mass of a mixture of compounds (including the first compound). For example, if 10g of a compound Y are present within a mixture Z (including compound Y) having a total mass of 100g, then the mass percentage of Y in Z is 10%.

In the context of this application, a number of definitions relating to grapes must be taken into account. The “ grain of grape ” is composed of the “ skin of the grape ”, of the “ pulp of the grape ”, and of the “ pips of the grape ”. Furthermore, the term “ grape fruit” refers to the combination of “grape skin + grape pulp ”. A grape extract within the meaning of the present application may be an extract of any one of these elements of the grape seed, said extract possibly being aqueous or oily depending on the case (an aqueous extract is generally preferred). In addition, the raw materials (whole grape grain, grape skin, grape pulp, grape seeds, or even grape fruit) can be frozen or deep-frozen before extraction. Freezing is particularly preferred.

In the context of the present application, the term “ about ” preceding a numerical value means that the value can be modified by plus or minus 10%. In the particular case of a numerical value being an interval limit, the term “ approximately ” means that the lower limit can be reduced by 10% and/or that the upper limit can be increased by 10%. It is also possible to delete the term “ environ ” preceding a numerical value.

A certain number of companies market formulations comprising at least one grape extract, this is the case, for example, with the ranges of the companies CAUDALIE, VINAESSENCE, OENOLIA, VINALI, DC DERMOTECA COSMETICS, ESDOR, etc.

Within the corresponding formulations, grape extracts are mostly used for their antioxidant effects.

In addition, a number of patents and patent applications have been filed in this area. In particular, some applications disclose extracts of marigolds and/or pine and/or grapes.

Application WO 2009/010688 (L'OREAL / Cassin) discloses cosmetic compositions for coloring the skin comprising a self-tanner and a colorant. In this application, a marigold extract is cited, as well as a pine extract, apparently sold under the trade name Pycnogenol®, and a grape extract is also cited.

Other applications make similar disclosures with respect to grape, pine, and marigold extracts. This is for example the case of applications WO 2009/079135 (ELC MANAGEMENT LLC / Sojka), US 2004/0146539 (GUPTA), EP 1 813 250 (TOYO SHINYAKU CO. / Takagaki), WO 2012/177757 (PROCTER & GAMBLE / Gonzales), WO 2006/117516 (RECKITT BENCKISER INC / Kosturko), US 2008/0050398 (BOCKMÜHL), or application AU 2008229662 (BLACKMORES LIMITED / Bull).

In these applications, a combination of an extract of pine and grape is in no way envisaged, nor a fortiori a triple combination with an extract of marigolds.

Consequently, the formulations described in these applications are not satisfactory with regard to certain properties, which are observed in the presence of several active agents.

There is a need to have cosmetic formulations capable of improving the quality of the skin, in particular through an increase in the synthesis of intracellular elastin, a good anti-free radical activity, as well as the synthesis of collagen by human fibroblasts.

Surprisingly, it has been demonstrated by the Applicant that a combination of a pine extract and a grape extract, and preferably in addition a marigold extract, is a combination of complementary and synergistic. The interest of this combination is linked to the power of its central " antioxidant " and " anti-free radical " action, associated with anti-ageing, moisturizing, regenerating and healing actions.

It has been observed that the associations according to the invention have powerful antioxidant properties, an increase in the synthesis of antioxidant enzymes which act as a free radical scavenger has been observed.

A synergy of antioxidant properties is observed, and the associations of active ingredients make it possible to fight against skin aging and act in prevention on wrinkles, slackening of the skin but also the radiance of the skin, they also allow the observation of a restorative effect (stimulation of the synthesis of collagen, the main constituent of the dermis, restoring tone and density to the skin).

In summary, with regard to the two active ingredients, pine extract and grape extract, they present a real synergy in order to create a firm, elastic and resistant tissue. The effects are further enhanced by adding a third extract being a marigold extract.

The combination of extracts in formulations intended to be applied to the skin and to the appendages is therefore of real interest.

For example, anti-radical effects and collagen synthesis promotion effects have been demonstrated, and the plaintiff is all the more deserving in that these effects have a priori nothing to do with each other.

The invention relates to a cosmetic formulation, characterized in that it comprises:

at least one grape extract; and

at least one pine extract.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.0001 to about 1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a weight percentage of about 0.005 to about 0.07%, relative to the total weight of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.0011%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.033%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.05%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.066%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is selected from the group consisting of grape seed extracts (skin and pulp and seeds), grape skin extracts, grape pulp extracts, grape seed extracts , grape fruit extracts (skin and pulp), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is selected from the group consisting of grape seed extracts (skin and pulp and pips), grape pulp extracts, grape seed extracts, grape fruit extracts (skin and pulp), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is selected from the group consisting of grape seed extracts (skin and pulp and pips), grape pulp extracts, grape fruit extracts (skin and pulp), and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is selected from the group consisting of grape seed extracts (skin and pulp and pips), grape fruit extracts (skin and pulp), and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is an aqueous extract. An aqueous extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, said grape extract (grape seed, grape skin, grape pulp, grape seeds, or even grape fruit) is an aqueous extract. An aqueous extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is the extract having the INCI VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) FRUIT EXTRACT.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is a grape seed extract having the INCI VITIS VINIFERA (GRAPE) FRUIT EXTRACT.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is an oily extract.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from a raw material (grape seed, grape skin, grape pulp, grape seeds, or even grape fruit) that has been frozen prior to the extraction. Such a freezing step can improve the quality of the raw material.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is an extract of the genus Vitis.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is an extract of the genus Vitis and is chosen from the following species: Vitis labrusca, Vitis riparia, Vitis rupestris, Vitis berlandieri, Vitis amurensis, Vitis coignetiae, Vitis vulpina, Vitis acerifolia, Vitis aestivalis , Vitis rotundifolia, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from the species Vitis vinifera.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of the species Vitis vinifera. In the context of the present application, the fruit extract of grapes of the species Vitis vinifera is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is in the form mixed with at least one compound chosen from the group consisting of water, glycerin, citric acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate. These compounds are not taken into account for the calculation of the mass concentration of extract.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is in the form mixed with at least the following compounds: water, glycerin, citric acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate. These compounds are not taken into account for the calculation of the mass concentration of extract.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is in the form of the following mixture: water (60 to 90% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), glycerin (>23% by mass, relative to the mass total of said mixture), extract of vitis vinifera fruit (0.1 to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), citric acid (<1% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), sodium benzoate (0.1 to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), potassium sorbate (0.1 to 0.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture).

In one embodiment, said grape extract is in the form of the following mixture: water (71.95 to 75.45% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), glycerin (>23% by mass, by relative to the total mass of said mixture), extract of vitis vinifera fruit (0.6 to 1.6% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), citric acid (<1% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), sodium benzoate (0.3% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture), potassium sorbate (0.15% by mass, relative to the total mass of said mixture).

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of Vitis vinifera having CAS number 84929-27-1.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of Vitis vinifera having CAS number 85594-37-2.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of Vitis vinifera having CAS number 84929-27-1 / CAS 85594-37-2.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is hydrophilic.

In one embodiment, said grape extract is lipophilic.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a weight percentage of about 0.01 to about 1.5%, relative to the total weight of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.01 to about 1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.05%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.5%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is an extract of the genus Pinus.

In one embodiment, said extract is an extract of the species Pinus pinaster.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is extracted from pine bark.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is extracted from pine bark of the genus Pinus.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is extracted from pine bark of the species Pinus pinaster.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is hydrophilic.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is lipophilic.

In one embodiment, said pine extract has a plant polyphenol content greater than about 95% by mass, relative to the total mass of said extract.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is extracted from pine bark and has a plant polyphenol content greater than about 95% by mass, based on the total mass of said extract.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is extracted from pine bark of the species Pinus pinaster and has a plant polyphenol content greater than about 95% by mass, relative to the total mass of said extract.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is the extract having the INCI PALMITOYL PINE BARK EXTRACT. In the context of the present application, this extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, said pine extract is PALMITOYL PINE BARK EXTRACT having CAS number 1134080-67-3. In the context of the present application, this extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it also comprises at least one marigold extract.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.0001 to approximately 1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.001 to approximately 0.8%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.001 to approximately 0.5%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.001 to approximately 0.3%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.001 to approximately 0.2%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.001 to approximately 0.15%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.002 to approximately 0.12%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.08 to approximately 0.12%, relative to the total mass of said wording.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.100 to approximately 0.110%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.1065%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.0030 to approximately 0.0040%, relative to the total mass of said wording.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.003550%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.1 to approximately 0.25%, relative to the total mass of said wording.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.15%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.2%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is a flower extract.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is an extract of the genus Calendula.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is an extract of a flower of the genus Calendula. In the context of the present application, this extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is an extract of the genus Calendula and is chosen from the following species: Calendula arvensis, Calendula denticulata, Calendula eckerleinii, Calendula incana, Calendula lanzae , Calendula maroccana, Calendula meuselii, Calendula officinalis, Calendula palaestina, Calendula stellata, Calendula suffruticosa and Calendula tripterocarpa.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is an extract of a flower of the Calendula genus and is chosen from the following species: Calendula arvensis, Calendula denticulata, Calendula eckerleinii, Calendula incana, Calendula lanzae, Calendula maroccana, Calendula meuselii, Calendula officinalis, Calendula palaestina, Calendula stellata, Calendula suffruticosa and Calendula tripterocarpa.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is an extract of the species Calendula officinalis. This is the preferred species.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is a flower extract of the species Calendula officinalis. This is the favorite part of the Calendula officinalis plant.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is the extract having the INCI CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER EXTRACT. In the context of the present application, this extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is the extract having CAS 84776-23-8. In the context of the present application, this extract is particularly preferred.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is hydrophilic.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said marigold extract is lipophilic.

In one embodiment, said marigold extract is in the form mixed with at least the following compounds: water, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol. These compounds are not taken into account for the calculation of the mass concentration of extract.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of 0.01 to 0.6%, relative to the total mass of said formulation, and said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.005 to about 0.05%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.3 to approximately 1.5%, relative to the total mass of said formulation , and said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.01 to about 0.1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.3 to approximately 1.5%, relative to the total mass of said formulation , said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.01 to about 0.1%, relative to the total mass of said formulation, and said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of about 0.05 to about 0.3%, based on the total weight of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it also comprises at least one excipient chosen from the group consisting of solvents, denaturants, humectants, perfumes, control agents viscosity, emulsifiers, surfactants, emollients, foam boosters, hair conditioning agents, hydrotropes, skin conditioning agents, fixing agents, emulsion stabilizers, gelling agents, antioxidants , preservatives, chelating agents, pH regulators, masking agents, film formers, adsorbents, hair fixers, oral hygiene agents, deodorants, cosmetic colorants, opacifiers, lipid restorers , UV filters, UV absorbers, abrasive agents, anti-caking agents, bulking agents, cleaning agents, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, foaming agents, antistatic agents, plasticizers, antimicrobial agents, softening agents, emollients, toning agents, emulsion stabilizers, and binders.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said solvent is chosen from the group consisting of water, glycerin, propanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, benzyl alcohol, gluconolactone, castor seed oil, triple glycerol ester of caprylic and capric acids, pentylene glycol, limonene, propylene glycol, dioctyl ether, alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said denaturant is chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said humectant is chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, sorbitol, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, glucose, gluconolactone, calcium gluconate, seaweed extract, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, green tea leaf extract, sodium hyaluronate, sea salt, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said perfume is chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, sodium benzoate, cetyl palmitate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, propylene glycol, tridecane, butterfly lavender extract, green tea leaf extract, phenethyl alcohol, l lemon balm leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said viscosity control agent is chosen from the group consisting of propanediol, copolymers of hydroxyethyl acrylate and acryloydimethyl sodium taurate, chondrus crispus extract, cocamidopropyl betaine, shea butter, sclerotium gum, silica, isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, propylene glycol, alcohol, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said emulsifier is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate, cetearyl glucoside, polysorbate 60, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, hydrogenated castor oil, lecithin, polysorbate-20, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, butylene glycol cocoate, Hydroxystearic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan isostearate, palmitic acid, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose polystearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said surfactant is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, cocamidopropyl betaine, hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate 60, polysorbate-20 and caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Hydroxystearic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sucrose polystearate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said emollient is chosen from the group consisting of fractionated coconut oil, cetyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate, squalane, cetearyl isononaoate, common castor seed oil, hydrogenated castor oil, carnauba wax, seaweed extract, glyceryl stearate citrate and lecithin, glycerol triple ester and caprylic and capric acids, caprylyl glycol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, sucrose polystearate, extract of barley, dicaprylyl carbonate, dioctyl ether, hydrogenated vegetable oil, undecane, sunflower seed oil, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said foam booster is cocamidopropyl betaine.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said hair care agent is chosen from the group consisting of squalane, lauroyl lysine, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cetearyl isononaoate, cocamidopropyl betaine , cyclohexasiloxane, sodium polyacrylate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said skin maintenance agent is chosen from the group consisting of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, cetyl palmitate, squalane, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, chondrus crispus extract, tocopherol, cetearyl isononaoate, raspberry seed oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, manganese sulfate, shea butter, ricinus communis seed oil, glyceryl stearate citrate, hydrogenated castor oil, sclerotium gum, lecithin, sorbitol, seaweed extract, xylitol , tocopherol, calcium gluconate, isostearyl alcohol, alpha-Glucan oligosaccharide, cetyl esters, decylene glycol, juniper berry extract, triple glycerol ester and caprylic and capric acids, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, nitride d e boron, ethylhexylglycerin, Belle de Nuit extract, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, lotus leaf cell extract, sucrose polystearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, beech bud extract, barley extract, propylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, dioctyl oxide, hydrogenated vegetable oil, fermentation product of Lactobacillus bacteria, extract immortelle d'Italie, sunflower seed oil, water clover leaf extract, daisy flower extract, lemon balm leaf extract, sodium hyaluronate, salt of sea, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said fixing agent is chosen from the group consisting of xanthan gum, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said gelling agent is xanthan gum.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said antioxidant is chosen from the group consisting of tocopherol acetate, tocopherol, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said preservative is chosen from the group consisting of sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, o-cymen -5-ol, benzoic acid, phenethyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said chelating agent is chosen from the group consisting of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, citric acid, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said pH regulator is chosen from the group consisting of citric acid, sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said masking agent is chosen from the group consisting of citric acid, seaweed extract, cetyl palmitate, benzyl alcohol, castor seed oil, triple glycerol ester of caprylic and capric acids, geraniol, linalool, limonene, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, everlasting flower extract , sunflower seed oil, butterfly lavender extract, phenethyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said film-forming agent is chosen from the group consisting of acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, pullulan, carnauba wax, ethylcellulose , glycerol polyacrylate, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said adsorbent agent is silica.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said oral hygiene agent is chosen from the group consisting of seaweed extract, calcium gluconate, tea leaf extract green, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said deodorant is zinc gluconate, linalool, limonene, ethylhexylglycerin, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said cosmetic colorant is ci 77491, ci 17200, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said opacifier is chosen from the group consisting of mica, cetearyl alcohol, silica, boron nitride, cetyl alcohol, stearyl, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said lipid restorer is squalane, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said UV absorber is chosen from the group consisting of boron nitride, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said abrasive agent is chosen from the group consisting of silica, sea salt, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said anti-caking agent is silica.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said bulking agent is silica.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said cleansing agent is chosen from the group consisting of caprylyl/capryl glucoside, cocamidopropyl betaine, Hydroxystearic acid, palmitic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said moisturizing agent is chosen from the group consisting of triple glycerol ester and caprylic and capric acids, common castor seed oil , hydrogenated vegetable oil, lemon balm leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said foaming agent is caprylyl/capryl glucoside.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said antistatic agent is chosen from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, lecithin, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said plasticizer is sorbitol.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said softening agent is common castor seed oil.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said emollient is chosen from the group consisting of isostearyl alcohol, triple glycerol ester and caprylic and capric acids and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said toning agent is chosen from the group consisting of extract of beech bud, extract of papaya fruit, extract of alfalfa, geraniol, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said emulsion stabilizer is chosen from the group consisting of butylene glycol cocoate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium carrageenan, gum xanthan, cetearyl alcohol, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that said binder is ethylcellulose, the ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it also comprises at least one excipient chosen from the group consisting of solvents (such as, for example, water, glycerin, propanediol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, benzyl alcohol, gluconolactone, triple glycerol ester of caprylic and capric acids, pentylene glycol, ricinus communis seed oil, limonene, propylene glycol, dioctyl, alcohol, and mixtures thereof), denaturants (such as, for example, glycerine, sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof), humectants (such as, for example, glycerine, sorbitol, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol, glucose, gluconolactone, calcium gluconate, seaweed extract, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, green tea leaf extract, sodium hyaluronate, sea salt, and mixtures thereof ), perfumes (such as glycerin, sodium benzoate, cetyl palmitate, benzyl alcohol, sodium benzoate, benzoic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, propylene glycol, tridecane, butterfly lavender extract, green tea leaf extract, phenethyl alcohol, lemon balm leaf extract, and mixtures thereof), viscosity control agents (e.g., propanediol, copolymers of hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloydimethyl taurate, chondrus crispus extract, cocamidopropyl betaine, shea butter, sclerotium gum, silica, isostearyl alcohol, butylene glycol cocoate, ethyl cellulose, cetyl alcohol, l stearyl alcohol, propylene glycol, alcohol, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof), emulsifiers (such as, for example, hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate, cetearyl glucoside, polysorbate 60, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, glycer yl stearate citrate, hydrogenated castor oil, lecithin, polysorbate-20, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, butylene glycol cocoate, Hydroxystearic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan isostearate , palmitic acid, pentaerythrityl distearate, sucrose polystearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof), surfactants (such as, for example, hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, cocamidopropyl betaine, castor oil polysorbate 60, polysorbate-20 and caprylyl/capryl glucoside, Hydroxystearic acid, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sucrose polystearate, and mixtures thereof), emollients (such as fractionated coconut oil, cetyl palmitate, cetearyl alcohol, glycerol stearate, squalane, cetearyl isononaoate, ricinus communis seed oil, hydrogenated castor oil, carnauba wax, seaweed extract, glyceryl stearate citrate, lecithin, triple glycerol ester of caprylic and capric acids, caprylyl glycol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, sucrose polystearate, barley extract, dicaprylyl carbonate, dioctyl ether, hydrogenated vegetable oil, undecane, sunflower seed oil, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof), foam boosters (such as, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine), hair conditioning agents (such as, for example, squalane, cetearyl isononaoate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium stearoyl glutamate), hydrotropes, skin conditioning agents (such as for example magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate, cetyl palmitate, squalane, xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, alpha-glucan, chondrus crispus extract, tocopherol, cetearyl isononaoate e, raspberry seed oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, manganese sulfate, shea butter, common castor seed oil, glyceryl stearate citrate, hydrogenated castor oil, sclerotium gum, lecithin , sorbitol, seaweed extract, xylitol, tocopherol, calcium gluconate, isostearyl alcohol, alpha-Glucan oligosaccharide, cetyl esters, decylene glycol, triple glycerol ester and caprylic and capric acids, juniper berry extract, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, boron nitride, ethylhexylglycerin, Belle de Nuit extract, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, lotus leaf cell extract, sucrose polystearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, beech bud extract, barley extract, propylene glycol, dicaprylyl carbonate, oxide of dioctyl, hydrogenated vegetable oil, the fermentation product of the bacterium Lactobacillus, the ex dash of immortelle from Italy, sunflower seed oil, water clover leaf extract, daisy flower extract, lemon balm leaf extract, sodium hyaluronate, salt sea salt, and mixtures thereof), fixing agents (such as for example xanthan gum, pullulan and mixtures thereof), gelling agents (such as for example xanthan gum), antioxidants (such as for example tocopherol acetate , tocopherol, and mixtures thereof), preservatives (such as sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol, dehydroacetic acid, o-cymen-5-ol, phenethyl alcohol, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof), chelating agents (such as, for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, citric acid, phytic acid, and mixtures thereof), pH regulators (such as, for example, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof), masking agents (such as citric acid, seaweed extract, palmitate cetyl alcohol, glycerol triple ester of caprylic and capric acids, ricinus communis seed oil, geraniol, linalool, limonene, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, l everlasting flower extract, sunflower seed oil, butterfly lavender extract, phenethyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof), film-forming agents (such as acrylates/c10-30 alkyl crosspolymer acrylate, pullulan, carnauba wax, limonene, ethylcellulose, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof), adsorbents (such as, for example, silica), hair fixers, oral hygiene (such as, for example, seaweed extract, green tea leaf extract, calcium gluconate, and mixtures thereof), deodorants (such as, for example, zinc gluconate, linalool, limonene, ethylhexylglycerin, and mixtures thereof), cosmetic colorants (such as ci 77491, ci 172 00, and mixtures thereof), opacifiers (such as, for example, mica, cetearyl alcohol, boron nitride, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, silica, and mixtures thereof), lipid restorers (eg, squalane, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof), UV absorbers (eg, boron nitride, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof), abrasive agents (such as for example silica), anti-caking agents (such as for example silica), bulking agents (such as for example silica); cleansing agents (such as, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, Hydroxystearic acid, palmitic acid, sodium stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof), antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents (such as, for example, glycerol triple ester and caprylic and capric acids, castor bean seed oil, lemon balm leaf extract, hydrogenated vegetable oil, and mixtures thereof), foaming agents (such as, for example, caprylyl/capryl glucoside), antistatic agents (such as, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium carrageenan, lecithin, and their mixtures), plasticizers (such as, for example, sorbitol), antimicrobial agents, softening agents (such as, for example, the seed oil of common castor), emollients (such as isostearyl alcohol, triple glycerol ester of caprylic and capric acids, caprylyl glycol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmitic acid, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, sucrose polystearate, barley extract, dicaprylyl carbonate, dioctyl ether, hydrogenated vegetable oil, undecane, sunflower seed oil , green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof), toning agents (such as, for example, beech bud extract, papaya fruit extract, geraniol, alfalfa extract, green tea leaf extract, and mixtures thereof), emulsion stabilizers (such as butylene glycol cocoate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, sodium carrageenan, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol, sclerotium gum, and mixtures thereof), and binders (such as, for example, ethylcellulose, ester of isostearyl alcohol and isostearic acid, sodium carrageenan, and mixtures thereof).

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in a form chosen from the group consisting of serums, masks, creams, lotions, waters, make-up removers or even solar products.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a serum.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a mask.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a cream.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a lotion.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a make-up remover.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a sunscreen product.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a W/O or O/W emulsion, or of a multiple emulsion.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate fibroblasts.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of collagen.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of intracellular and extracellular collagen.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of intracellular collagen.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of extracellular collagen.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to stimulate the synthesis of elastin.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to protect the human epidermis.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention to protect the hair.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, as an anti-aging formulation.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, as a formulation for improving the quality of the skin.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, as a formulation for improving the quality of the hair.

The invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, as an anti-radical formulation.

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the anti-radical activity of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested as a function of the concentration of the latter. The abscissa gives the concentration in mg/ml, and the ordinate gives the percentage reduction in DPPH. It is visible on this graph that for concentrations above 18.5 mg/ml, a dose-dependent reduction in DPPH is observed.

Figure 2 is a graph showing the stimulation of intracellular collagen synthesis according to the compound tested. On the abscissa are given the different compounds tested and/or the different concentrations tested. On the ordinate is given the percentage of stimulation of the synthesis of intracellular collagen.

Figure 3 is a graph showing the stimulation of extracellular collagen synthesis according to the compound tested. On the abscissa are given the different compounds tested and/or the different concentrations tested. Along the ordinate is given the percentage of stimulation of the synthesis of extracellular collagen.

Figure 3 is a graph showing the stimulation of intracellular elastin synthesis according to the compound tested. On the abscissa are given the different compounds tested and/or the different concentrations tested. On the ordinate is given the percentage of stimulation of the synthesis of intracellular elastin.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Cosmetic formulations according to the invention
Formulation 1 (Global Intense Serum):

Formulation 1 (Global Intense Serum) is described in the table below: Compound INCI CASE Function Concentration (w/w) Water AQUA (WATER) 7732-18-5 solvent 78.00% Glycerine GLYCERIN 56-81-5 distorting 5.50% Propanediol PROPANEDIOL 504-63-2 solvent
viscosity control agent 3.50% Isostearyl alcohol ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL 27458-93-1 Emollient
skin care agent
viscosity control agent 2.00% Butylene glycol cocoate BUTYLENE GLYCOL COCOATE emulsion stabilizer
viscosity control agent
emulsifying agent 2.00% Pentane-1,5-diol PENTYLENE GLYCOL 5343-92-0 skin care agent
solvent 2.00% Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE 27707-45-5 skin care agent 1.50% Fractionated coconut oil CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 73398-61-5 emollient 0.90% xanthan gum XANTHAN GUM 11138-66-2 binder
emulsion stabilizer
gelling 0.80% Perfume - - perfume
0.50% Maritime pine bark extract PINUS PINASTER BARK EXTRACT 90082-75-0 active 0.50% Tocopherol acetate TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 7695-91-2 antioxidant 0.50% sodium benzoate SODIUM BENZOATE 532-32-1 conservative
perfume 0.40% Beech bud extract FAGUS SYLVATICA BUD EXTRACT 85251-65-6 toning agent skin conditioning agent 0.40% Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE
DIACETATE 51981-21-6
chelating 0.20% Alfalfa extract
MEDICAGO SATIVA (ALFALFA) EXTRACT 84082-36-0 toning agent 0.20% 1,2-octanediol CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 1117-86-8 emollient
hair conditioning agent
humectant
skin conditioning agent 0.15% Marigold flower extract CALENDULA OFFICINALIS FLOWER
EXTRACT 84776-23-8 active 0.15% Citric acid CITRIC ACID 77-92-9 pH regulator
chelating
masking 0.05% Ethylcellulose ETHYLCELLULOSE 9004-57-3 binder
viscosity control agent
film-forming agent 0.05% Benzyl alcohol BENZYL ALCOHOL 100-51-6 perfume
solvent
conservative
masking 0.05% 3-[(2-Ethylhexyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN 70445-33-9 skin conditioning agent 0.05% seaweed extract ALGAE EXTRACT 92128-82-0 emollient
humectant
masking
oral hygiene agent
skin conditioning agent 0.05% Magnesium aspartate MAGNESIUM ASPARTATE 2068-80-6 skin conditioning agent 0.05% Zinc gluconate ZINC GLUCONATE 4468-02-4 deodorant agent
skin conditioning agent 0.05% Vitis vinifera fruit extract VITIS VINIFERA FRUIT EXTRACT 84929-27-1 active 0.05% 1,2-hexanediol 1,2-HEXANEDIOL 6920-22-5 solvent 0.05% copper gluconate COPPER GLUCONATE 527-09-3 skin conditioning agent 0.05% Sugar GLUCOSE 50-99-7 humectant 0.05% phytic acid PHYTIC ACID 83-86-3 Chelating agent 0.05% Potassium sorbate POTASSIUM SORBATE 24634-61-5 conservative 0.05%
Benzoic acid
BENZOIC ACID 65-85-0 Conservative
pH regulator
masking agent 0.05% here 77491 CI 77491 1309-37-1 cosmetic dye 0.04% Mica MICA 12001-26-2 opacifying agent 0.03% Tocopherol TOCOPHEROL 1406-66-2 antioxidant
skin conditioning agent 0.03%

Table 1: Formulation 1 (Global Intense Serum)

Formulation 2 (Antioxidant day cream):

Formulation 2 (Antioxidant day cream) is described in the table below: Compound INCI CASE Function Concentration (w/w) Water aqua 7732-18-5 solvent 70.00% Glycerine glycerine 56-81-5 distorting
humectant
solvent
perfume 5.00% Propanediol propanediol 504-63-2 / 26264-14-2 solvent
viscosity control agent 4.00% Fractionated coconut oil caprylic/capric
triglyceride 73398-61-5 emollient 3.00% Cetyl esters CETYL ESTERS - skin care agent 3.00% Shea Butter BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII (SHEA) BUTTER 194043-92-0 emollient
moisturizing
skin care agent 2.00% Castor seed oil RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL 8001-79-4 emollient
moisturizing
skin care agent
softening agent
solvent
masking agent 2.00% 1,2-hexanediol 1,2-hexanediol 6920-22-5 solvent 2.00% Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide ALPHA-GLUCAN OLIGOSACCHARIDE 27707-45-5 skin care agent 1.50% Glyceryl stearate citrate GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE 55840-13-6 emollient
emulsifying agent
skin care agent 1.50% Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER - film-forming agent
emulsion stabilizer
gelling 0.80% Perfume - - perfume
0.70% xanthan gum xanthan gum 11138-66-2 binder
emulsion stabilizer
gelling 0.65% Maritime pine bark extract pinus pinaster bark extract 90082-75-0 active 0.50% Hydrogenated castor oil HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 8001-78-3 emollient
emulsifying agent
skin care agent
surfactant
viscosity control agent 0.30% Sclerotium rolfssii gum (gum of microbiological origin, produced by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfissii) SCLEROTIUM GUM 39464-87-4
emulsion stabilizer
viscosity control agent
skin care agent 0.30% Lecithin LECITHIN 8002-43-5 antistatic agent
emollient
emulsifying agent
skin care agent 0.30% Pullulan (polysaccharide from the fermentation of starch) PULLULAN 9057-02-7 binder
film-forming agent 0.30% Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 51981-21-6 chelating agent 0.20% Sodium hydroxide sodium hydroxide 1310-73-2 pH regulating agent
distorting 0.20% Marigold flower extract calendula officinalis flower
extract 84776-23-8 active 0.20% Chondrus crispus extract chondrus crispus
extract 244023-79-8 skin conditioning agent
viscosity control agent 0.20% Carnauba wax (palm tree) COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA (COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX) 8015-86-9 emollient
film-forming agent
viscosity control agent 0.20% Decylene glycol DECYLENE GLYCOL 1119-86-4 skin care agent 0.20% Juniper berry extract JUNIPERUS COMMUNIS FRUIT EXTRACT 84603-69-0 skin care agent 0.20% o-Cymen-5-ol o-CYMEN-5-OL 3228-02-2 conservative
antibacterial agent
0.15% Pentane-1,5-diol pentylene glycol 5343-92-0 skin care agent
solvent 0.05% Magnesium aspartate magnesium aspartate 2068-80-6 skin conditioning agent 0.05% Zinc gluconate zinc gluconate 4468-02-4 deodorant agent
skin conditioning agent 0.05% Silicon Dioxide (Silica) SILICA 7631-86-9 abrasive agent
absorbing agent
opacifying
binder
viscosity control agent
anti-caking agent
bulking agent
suspending agent 0.05% Vitis vinifera fruit extract vitis vinifera fruit extract 84929-27-1 active 0.05% Citric acid citric acid 77-92-9 pH regulating agent
chelating
masking 0.05% Benzyl alcohol benzyl-alcohol 100-51-6 perfume
solvent
conservative
masking 0.05% 1,2-octanediol caprylyl glycol 1117-86-8 emollient
skin conditioning agent
hair conditioning agent
humectant 0.05% sodium benzoate sodium benzoate 532-32-1 conservative
perfume 0.05% copper gluconate copper gluconate 527-09-3 skin conditioning agent 0.05% Potassium sorbate potassium sorbate 24634-61-5 conservative 0.05% Dehydroacetic acid dehydroacetic acid 520-45-6 conservative 0.05% Table 2: Formulation 2 ( Antioxidant day cream )
Formulation 3 (Primordial Face Lotion):

Formulation 3 (Primordial Face Lotion) is described in the table below:

Compound INCI CASE Function Concentration (w/w) Water aqua 7732-18-5 solvent 80.50% Glycerine glycerine 56-81-5 denaturing humectant
solvent
perfume 3.80% Dioctyl carbonate dicaprylyl carbonate 1680-31-5 emollient
skin conditioning agent 2.50% Cetearyl Isononaoate cetearyl isononanoate 111937-03-2 emollient
skin conditioning agent
hair conditioning agent 2.00% n-dioctyl ether dicaprylyl ether 629-82-3 emollient
skin conditioning agent
solvent 2.00% Ceteareth-20 ceteareth-20 68439-49-6 emulsifying agent 2.00% Glycerol Stearate glyceryl stearate 31566-31-1 emollient
emulsifying agent 1.50% raspberry seed oil/palm oil
aminopropanediol esters raspberry seed oil/palm oil
aminopropanediol esters - skin conditioning agent
1.50% Gluconolactone gluconolactone 90-80-2 humectant
solvent 0.70% Maritime pine bark extract pinus pinaster bark extract 90082-75-0 active 0.50% Perfume - - perfume
0.50% Ceteareth-12 ceteareth-12 68439-49-6 emulsifying agent 0.50% Cetearyl alcohol cetearyl alcohol 67762-27-0 emollient
emulsifying agent emulsion stabilizing agent
opacifying agent 0.50% sodium benzoate sodium benzoate 532-32-1 conservative
perfume 0.30% 1,2-octanediol caprylyl glycol 1117-86-8 emollient
skin conditioning agent
hair conditioning agent
humectant 0.30% Sodium hydroxide sodium hydroxide 1310-73-2 pH regulating agent
distorting 0.20% Marigold flower extract calendula officinalis flower
extract 84776-23-8 active 0.20% Pentane-1,5-diol pentylene glycol 5343-92-0 skin conditioning agent
solvent 0.05% Magnesium aspartate magnesium aspartate 2068-80-6 skin conditioning agent
0.05% Zinc gluconate zinc gluconate 4468-02-4 deodorant agent
skin conditioning agent 0.05% Vitis vinifera fruit extract vitis vinifera fruit extract 84929-27-1 active 0.05% Citric acid citric acid 77-92-9 pH regulating agent
chelating
masking 0.05% 1,2-hexanediol 1,2-hexanediol 6920-22-5 solvent 0.05% calcium gluconate calcium gluconate 299-28-5 humectant
oral hygiene agent
skin conditioning agent 0.05% copper gluconate copper gluconate 527-09-3 skin conditioning agent 0.05% Potassium sorbate potassium sorbate 24634-61-5 conservative 0.05% Tocopherol tocopherol 1406-66-2 antioxidant
skin conditioning agent 0.05% Table 3: Formulation 3 ( Primordial Face Lotion )
Example 2: Study of the anti-radical activity of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention by reduction of diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl : DPPH test

The purpose of this study is to evaluate in vitro the anti-radical activity of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, the qualitative and quantitative composition of which is given below:

Compound INCI Name CAS no. Function Concentration (w/w) PURIFIED WATER aqua 7732-18-5 solvent 84.500000 Water aqua 7732-18-5 solvent 5.727000 Marigold flower extract calendula officinalis flower
extract 84776-23-8 active 0.213000 1,2-hexanediol 1,2-hexanediol 6920-22-5 solvent 0.030000 1,2-octanediol caprylyl glycol 1117-86-8 emollient
hair conditioning agent
humectant
skin conditioning agent 0.030000 Water aqua 7732-18-5 solvent 4.467000 Glycerine glycerine 56-81-5 distorting
humectant
solvent
perfume 1.380000 Vitis vinifera fruit extract vitis vinifera fruit extract 84929-27-1 active 0.066000 Citric acid citric acid 77-92-9 pH regulator
chelating
masking 0.060000 sodium benzoate sodium benzoate 532-32-1 conservative
perfume 0.018000 Potassium sorbate potassium sorbate 24634-61-5
conservative 0.009000 Sodium polyacrylate sodium polyacrylate 9003-04-7 binder
film forming
absorbent
emollient
emulsion stabilizer
hair fixer
skin conditioning agent 2.000000 Maritime pine bark extract pinus pinaster bark extract 90082-75-0 active 1.000000 sodium benzoate sodium benzoate 532-32-1 conservative
perfume 0.500000

Table 4: Study of anti-radical activity

The principle of the study is based on diphenyl-picrylhydrazyl DPPH which is a stable free radical of violet color absorbing at 540 nm. A radical-scavenging component is able to scavenge the DPPH radical by donating a proton to it, resulting in its discoloration. The anti-radical activity of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested is proportional to the reduction in the coloration with DPPH.

The reference elements are as follows:
- negative control: DPPH solution at 100 μmol/l in ethanol;
- positive control: vitamin E (alpha tocopherol, CAS 100191-41-0) 2.74 to 1.48 µg/ml in ethanol;

The cosmetic formulation according to the invention was tested on a range of at least 5 dilutions, and vitamin E, a recognized anti-free radical, was studied in parallel.

The protocol is as follows:

1 ml of DPPH without µmol/l was mixed with 80 µl of each dilution of the cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested and reference. After vigorous shaking, the mixture was incubated at room temperature and protected from light overnight. The following day, each cube was centrifuged for approximately 15 minutes at 4000 rpm. The reaction mixtures were distributed in a 96-well plate (200 μl per well – 2 wells per reaction mixture). Absorbances were measured at 540 nm.

The percentage reduction at DPPH is calculated according to the following formula:

The concentration of the cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested giving 50% reduction in DPPH is also determined, it is called “ CI 50 ”, it reflects its anti-radical activity.

The results are summarized in the following table:

Picture 5 : Study of the antiradical activity of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention

A graphical representation of the results obtained is in Figure 1.

The vitamin E used as reference has an IC50 < 30 μg/ml, this validates the test.

Under the standard conditions of the study, the IC50 is not reached. However, a dose-dependent reduction in DPPH is observed for concentrations above 18.5 mg/ml. The IC50 was therefore estimated by linear regression at 105.6 mg/ml.

The cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested has anti-radical qualities
Example 3: Study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested on the synthesis of collagen by human fibroblasts

The aim of this study is to evaluate the inducing activity of the synthesis of intracellular collagen and extracellular collagen of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention.

The cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested is the same as that given in Example 2.

The reference elements are as follows:
- negative control;
- positive control: FGF and TGF-β, two growth factors which stimulate the growth of fibroblasts and therefore lead to an intra and/or extracellular increase in the synthesis of collagen.

The results are given in the following table:

Picture 6 : Study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention on the synthesis of collagen by human fibroblasts

Regarding intracellular collagen synthesis, as expected, FGF at 20 ng/ml stimulated intracellular collagen synthesis by 35%, and TGF-β at 20 ng/ml also stimulated intracellular collagen by 24 %. The cosmetic formulation according to the invention induced an increase in the synthesis of intracellular collagen proportional to its concentration, up to 39% (at 5000 μg/ml).

Regarding extracellular collagen synthesis, as expected, TGF-β at 20 ng/ml stimulated extracellular collagen synthesis by 13%. The cosmetic formulation according to the invention induced an increase in the synthesis of extracellular collagen proportional to its concentration, up to 75% (at 5000 μg/ml).

Figures 2 and 3 represent a good visualization of the results.

In conclusion, an effect of stimulation of intra and/or extracellular collagen synthesis by the cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested is demonstrated. Moreover, this stimulation is clearly superior to that of the positive controls (39% versus 35% for intracellular collagen, 75% versus 13% for extracellular collagen).

Example 4: Study of the effect of one cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested on elastin synthesis by human fibroblasts

The aim of this study is to evaluate the inducing activity of elastin synthesis by human fibroblasts of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested.

The cosmetic formulation according to the invention tested is the same as that given in Example 2.

The reference elements are as follows:
- negative control;
- positive control: vitamin A, known to promote the formation of elastin fibers in cultured human dermal fibroblasts.

Picture 7 : Study of the effect of a cosmetic formulation according to the invention on elastin synthesis by human fibroblasts

As expected, 10 ^-5 M vitamin A stimulated intracellular elastin concentration by 73%. The cosmetic formulation according to the invention induced an increase in the intracellular elastin concentration of up to 68% (at 5000 μg/ml).

Figure 4 visualizes this result.

In conclusion, the cosmetic formulation according to the invention has an activity comparable to that of the positive control (68% at 5000 μg/ml against 73%) on the synthesis of intracellular elastin.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic formulation, characterized in that it comprises:

• at least one grape extract;
• and at least one pine extract.

Cosmetic formulation according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said grape extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.0001 to approximately 1%, relative to the total mass of the said formulation. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said grape extract is a grape fruit extract. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of the species Vitis vinifera. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said grape extract is extracted from the fruit of Vitis vinifera. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said pine extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.01 to approximately 1%, relative to the total mass of the said formulation. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said pine extract is extracted from pine bark of the genus Pinus. Cosmetic formulation according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one marigold extract. Cosmetic formulation according to Claim 8, characterized in that the said at least one marigold extract is present in a mass percentage of approximately 0.0001 to approximately 1%, relative to the total mass of the said formulation. Use of a formulation according to any preceding claim, to stimulate collagen synthesis. Use of a formulation according to any one of claims 1 to 9, to stimulate the synthesis of elastin.