FR2958845A1 - Depigmenting cosmetic composition, useful to treat skin and integument of mammals, preferably humans, comprises combination of an exfoliating agent of polyhydroxy acid, tyrosinase inhibitor, alpha-melanotropin antagonist and an antioxidant - Google Patents

Depigmenting cosmetic composition, useful to treat skin and integument of mammals, preferably humans, comprises combination of an exfoliating agent of polyhydroxy acid, tyrosinase inhibitor, alpha-melanotropin antagonist and an antioxidant Download PDF

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FR2958845A1
FR2958845A1 FR1001620A FR1001620A FR2958845A1 FR 2958845 A1 FR2958845 A1 FR 2958845A1 FR 1001620 A FR1001620 A FR 1001620A FR 1001620 A FR1001620 A FR 1001620A FR 2958845 A1 FR2958845 A1 FR 2958845A1
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agent
acid
depigmenting
antioxidant
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FR2958845B1 (en
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Christian Dampeirou
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CLC TECHNOLOGIE
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4906Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/4926Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having six membered rings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Depigmenting cosmetic composition comprises combination of an exfoliating agent of polyhydroxy acid, tyrosinase inhibitor, alpha -melanotropin (MSH) antagonist and an antioxidant in an non toxic excipient or an inert vehicle. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Tyrosinase inhibitor; Alpha-melanotropin antagonist.

Description

La présente invention se rapporte aux nécessités de la vie et plus particulièrement à l'entretien et au soin de la peau. Elle a plus particulièrement pour objet des compositions cosmétiques destinés à assurer un éclaircissement de la peau, notamment dans le cas de défauts esthétiques liés à une pigmentation irrégulière, anormale ou excessive, ou bien encore destinées à assurer l'éclaircissement d'une peau normale lorsqu'un individu cherche à passer d'un phénotype foncé à un phénotype plus clair. Le problème de la dépigmentation est un problème complexe nécessitant un traitement multiple et de longue durée. Les principaux agents dépigmentants se définissent comme des agents inhibiteurs ou antagonistes de la tyrosinase, agent assurant la conversion de la tyrosine en mélanine. Cependant les agents dépigmentants ont une action de courte durée et un effet fugace. On ne peut cependant pas utiliser de compositions à forte teneur en agent inhibiteur ou antagoniste de la tyrosinase en raison de leur toxicité potentielle et surtout de leur cytotoxicité avérée. A cet égard l'hydroquinone et ses dérivés utilisés pendant de nombreuses années ont constitué le principe actif essentiel des compositions dépigmentantes mais ils ont été retirés du marché en raison de leur potentiel cytotoxique. The present invention relates to the necessities of life and more particularly to the care and care of the skin. It more particularly relates to cosmetic compositions intended to provide lightening of the skin, especially in the case of aesthetic defects related to irregular, abnormal or excessive pigmentation, or else intended to ensure the lightening of normal skin when an individual is trying to move from a dark phenotype to a lighter phenotype. The problem of depigmentation is a complex problem requiring multiple and long-term treatment. The main depigmenting agents are defined as tyrosinase inhibitory or antagonistic agents, which ensure the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. However depigmenting agents have a short action and a fleeting effect. However, compositions with a high content of tyrosinase inhibitory or antagonist agent can not be used because of their potential toxicity and above all their proven cytotoxicity. In this respect hydroquinone and its derivatives used for many years have been the essential active principle of depigmenting compositions but they have been removed from the market because of their cytotoxic potential.

C'est pourquoi à l'heure actuelle les techniciens ont plutôt recours à des associations de plusieurs principes actifs, associations qui renforcent les effets et surtout permettent d'obtenir un effet plus durable et plus répètitible, sans effet secondaire gênant. L'art antérieur fournit de nombreux exemples de telles associations comme la demande de brevet international PCT/WO87/02807 qui décrit à titre de principes actifs une association 20 dépigmentante contenant au moins un acide a-hydroxylé ou un de ses dérivés un agent dépigmentant classique choisi parmi l'acide Kojique. l'acide caféique, l'acide azelaïque, l'acide aminobutyrique, l'acide fusarique, la y-hydroxy 2-hydroxymethylpyridone et leurs dérivés. 25 et au moins un composant actif d'un extrait végétal de plante riche en phénols. This is why at the moment technicians tend to use combinations of several active ingredients, associations that enhance the effects and above all make it possible to obtain a more lasting and repeatable effect, without any annoying side effects. The prior art provides numerous examples of such combinations as the international patent application PCT / WO87 / 02807 which describes as active ingredients a depigmenting combination containing at least one α-hydroxy acid or a derivative thereof a conventional depigmenting agent chosen from Kojic acid. caffeic acid, azelaic acid, aminobutyric acid, fusaric acid, γ-hydroxy 2-hydroxymethylpyridone and their derivatives. And at least one active component of a plant extract rich in phenols.

Depuis lors, un nouveau mécanisme d'action des produits dépigmentants a été récemment mis en évidence. Il s'agit de l'association de trois facteurs clef agissant en amont sur l'activité de la tyrosinase 30 - le flux calcique entrant qui module la réponse mélanique aux rayons UV la réceptivité membranaire aux médiateurs agonistes a-adrénergiques. la stabilisation de la forme inactive de la tyrosinase qui ne devient active qu'après une phosphorylation PKC-dépendante, elle-même sous l'influence de la concentration intracellulaire en Calcium. l'intervention d'un autre antagoniste de la tyrosinase qui agit en amont et qui est formé 5 d'un antagoniste de l' a-MSH. Since then, a new mechanism of action of depigmenting products has recently been highlighted. This is the combination of three key upstream factors on tyrosinase activity - the incoming calcium flux that modulates the melanic response to UV rays membrane responsiveness to α-adrenergic agonist mediators. the stabilization of the inactive form of tyrosinase which becomes active only after a PKC-dependent phosphorylation, itself under the influence of the intracellular calcium concentration. the intervention of another upstream tyrosinase antagonist which is formed by an α-MSH antagonist.

L' a-MSH active la tyrosinase et conduit à la formation accrue de différentes mélanines (comme par exemple les mélanines, les phreomelanines) qui sont ensuite stockées par l'intermédiaire des mélanosomes dans les Keratinocytes et dans les mélanocytes. De ce fait le 10 brevet européen 1.866.168 décrit et revendique une association triple formée d'un inhibiteur de tyrosinase constitué par un ester d'acide gras d'acide Kojique, d'un régulateur du flux calcique constitué par un ester de boldine et d'un antagoniste del' a-MSH (melanotropine) sous la forme d'un amide de phenylalanine comme la N-undécenoylphenylalanine. En définitive les publications les plus récentes montrent que la mélanogénèse est sous le 15 contrôle de plusieurs facteurs parmis lesquels le calcium et les catécholamines issues des Keratinocytes. On a montré aussi que les récepteurs a-adrenergiques des mélanocytes paraissent jouer un rôle pivot. C'est sur ces bases que le Demandeur a envisagé de traiter la mélanogénèse en la réduisant réversiblement et de cette façon diminuer très sensiblement la pigmentation de la peau. 20 Parmi les dérivés les plus actifs sur la tyrosinase et les moins toxiques, on pourra citer en premier lieu le resorcinol, les dérivés alkylés du resorcinol (cyclopentyl resorcinol, cyclohexyl resorcinol, isoamyl resorcinol), les dérivés polyphénoliques renfermant une structure resorcinol comme le resvératrol, les dérivés de l'c-viniférine, les dérivés du myiabenol C, le picéatannol, le pallidol sous forme libre ou bloquée, notamment par 25 cyclisation, ainsi que les acides polyphénoliques du type resorcinate comme l'acide ferulique, l'acide gentisique, l'acide dihydroxy mandélique. Les compositions selon l'invention contiennent en outre un produit exfoliant du type acide poly hydroxy carboxylique, un agent anti inflammatoire, un inhibiteur d' a-MSH et/ou un inhibiteur de transfert, dilués ou dispersés dans un véhicule ou un excipient approprié pour 30 l'application sur la peau, les téguments et les muqueuses. Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent renfermer en outre un agent antioxydant comme l'acide phytique, l'acide rosmarinique, l'acide carnosique, le carnosol ; un agent protecteur vis-à-vis des rayons ultra-violet comme la L-ergothionéine, le palmitate de methoxydimethyle ou des esters de l'acide p-methoxycinnamique ; ainsi que de la glucosamine. Les agents exfoliants sont de préférence des acides a-hydroxylés comme l'acide lactique, l'acide ascorbique, l'acide glucuronique, l'acide xyluronique, l'acide iduronique ainsi que leurs formes lactoniques comme la glucuronolactone. L'agent anti-inflammatoire est de préférence un ester polyphénolique de sphingosine comme la salicyloylphytosphingosine ou un dérivé de sphingosine. Les agents anti MSH appartiennent à des classes très variées comme la boldine ou ses esters d'acide aliphatique et comme le sulforaphane. Α-MSH activates tyrosinase and leads to the increased formation of different melanins (such as melanins, phreomelanins) which are then stored via melanosomes in Keratinocytes and in melanocytes. As a result, European Patent No. 1,866,168 discloses and claims a triple combination of a tyrosinase inhibitor consisting of a fatty acid ester of Kojic acid, a calcium flow regulator consisting of a boldine ester, and an α-MSH (melanotropin) antagonist in the form of a phenylalanine amide such as N-undecenoylphenylalanine. Finally, the most recent publications show that melanogenesis is under the control of several factors including calcium and catecholamines derived from Keratinocytes. It has also been shown that the α-adrenergic receptors of melanocytes appear to play a pivotal role. It is on these bases that the Applicant has considered treating melanogenesis by reducing it reversibly and in this way very significantly reduce the pigmentation of the skin. Among the most active derivatives on tyrosinase and the least toxic, mention may first be made of resorcinol, the alkylated derivatives of resorcinol (cyclopentyl resorcinol, cyclohexyl resorcinol, isoamyl resorcinol), polyphenolic derivatives containing a resorcinol structure such as resveratrol c-viniferine derivatives, myiabenol C derivatives, piceatanol, pallidol in free or blocked form, in particular by cyclization, as well as polyphenolic acids of the resorcinate type such as ferulic acid, gentisic acid, , dihydroxy mandelic acid. The compositions according to the invention also contain a polyhydroxy carboxylic acid type exfoliating product, an anti-inflammatory agent, an α-MSH inhibitor and / or a transfer inhibitor, diluted or dispersed in a vehicle or an excipient suitable for 30 application on the skin, integuments and mucous membranes. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also contain an antioxidant agent such as phytic acid, rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid, carnosol; an ultraviolet-protecting agent such as L-ergothioneine, methoxydimethyl palmitate or p-methoxycinnamic acid esters; as well as glucosamine. The exfoliating agents are preferably α-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, ascorbic acid, glucuronic acid, xyluronic acid, iduronic acid and their lactone forms such as glucuronolactone. The anti-inflammatory agent is preferably a polyphenolic sphingosine ester such as salicyloylphytosphingosine or a sphingosine derivative. Anti-MSH agents belong to a wide variety of classes such as boldine or its aliphatic acid esters and sulforaphane.

Parmi les inhibiteurs de transfert on pourra citer la vitamine PP (Niacinamide) et ses dérivés, et les esters d'acide gras non saturé avec un alKanol aliphatique comme par exemple l' alinoléate d'éthyle, les esters d'acides linoléiques, les esters d'acides gras ramifiés comme l'acide érucique ou l'acide brassidique ou les esters d'acides gras polyinsaturés comme l'acide eicosapentaénoique ou l'acide dihomo y-linolénique. Among the transfer inhibitors, mention may be made of vitamin PP (Niacinamide) and its derivatives, and esters of unsaturated fatty acid with an aliphatic alkanol such as, for example, ethyl alinoleate, linoleic acid esters and esters. branched fatty acids such as erucic acid or brassidic acid or polyunsaturated fatty acid esters such as eicosapentaenoic acid or dihomo-linolenic acid.

Parmis les agents protecteurs solaires on pourra citer les dérivés de l'acétophénone, les dérivés de benzophénones, les hydroxybenzotriazols, le sulforaphane, les dérivés de l'acide m-hydroxy cinnamique, les flavonoïdes, et les tannins. Chacun de ces constituants joue un rôle important pour bloquer le mélanogénèse et intervenir d'une manière efficace et prolongée sur les différents paramètres qui interagissent dans ce mécanisme biologique complexe. Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent contenir en outre des agents adjuvants ou auxiliaires qui contribuent à améliorer l'utilisation, le contact, le toucher ou l'agrément de l'application de celles-ci. On pourra à cette fin ajouter un ou des agents épaississants comme des agents gélifiants végétaux ou animaux, des agents viscosifiants comme les polymères d'acide acrylique ou les polyacrylamides, des agents emulsionnants comme des esters de sucre, des stéarates de polyethylèneglycol, des Span, des Brijs, des agents aromatisants comme la teinture de benjoin ou un salicylate d'alcoyle ; des agents dispersants comme des charges minérales ou organiques, par exemple le Kaolin, le carbonate de calcium, le phosphate d'aluminium, les polyvinylpyrolidones. les polyvinylpyrolidones réticulées (crospovidones); des agents parfumants comme l'essence de vetiver, l'essence d'Ylang-Ylang, l'essence de Géranium rosa, ou l'essence de Violette ; des agents qui améliorent le toucher, ou l'étalement, comme des huiles de silicone, la dimethicone, ou le dimethyconol ou des agents qui favorisent la pénétration à travers la peau comme le dimethylisosorbide ou le methyldioxolane. aI ilf~ Une composition préférée selon l'invention contient : un agent exfoliant à la concentration de 0,5 à 20 % en poids de la composition totale un agent inhibiteur de la tyrosinase à la concentration de 0.1 °/) à 10 % en poids de la composition totale, un agent antagoniste del' a-MSH à la concentration de 0,10 à 10 % en poids de la composition totale, un agent antioxydant à la concentration s'échelonnant de 0.01 à 4 % en poids de la composition totale, un inhibiteur de transfert à la concentration s'échelonnant de 0,05 à 4 % en poids de la composition totale, un agent anti-inflammatoire à une concentration variant de 0,05 à 2 % en poids de la composition totale, un agent de protection solaire anti-UV à une concentration variant de 0,10 à 5 % en poids de la composition totale, de la glucosamine en quantité variant de 0,10 à 5 % par composition unitaire, Selon l'invention une composition cosmétique préférée contient : - de 0,15 à 3 % d'agent exfoliant comme l'acide glucuronique - de 0,15 à 7 % d'inhibiteur de tyrosinase comme l'hexyl resorcinol de 0,15 à 5 % d'agent antagoniste de la MSH comme le gentisate de dimethyle - de 0,05 à 5 % d'agent antioxydant comme le sulforaphane - de 0,05 à 4 % d'inhibiteur de transfert comme le niacinamide - de 0,05 à 2 % d'agent anti-inflammatoire comme la sphingosine ou un de ses esters. et de 0,05 à 2 % d'agent de protection solaire associés à 0.10 à 5 °A de glucosamine. Among the solar protective agents that may be mentioned derivatives of acetophenone, benzophenone derivatives, hydroxybenzotriazols, sulforaphane, derivatives of m-hydroxy cinnamic acid, flavonoids, and tannins. Each of these constituents plays an important role in blocking melanogenesis and intervening in an efficient and prolonged manner on the different parameters that interact in this complex biological mechanism. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain adjuvant or auxiliary agents which contribute to improving the use, the contact, the touch or the approval of the application thereof. To this end, it is possible to add one or more thickening agents such as vegetable or animal gelling agents, viscosifiers such as acrylic acid polymers or polyacrylamides, emulsifying agents such as sugar esters, polyethylene glycol stearates, Span, Brijs, flavoring agents such as benzoin tincture or alkyl salicylate; dispersing agents such as inorganic or organic fillers, for example Kaolin, calcium carbonate, aluminum phosphate, polyvinylpyrrolidones. crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidones (crospovidones); perfuming agents such as the essence of vetiver, the essence of Ylang-Ylang, the essence of Geranium rosa, or the essence of Violette; agents that improve the feel, or spreading, such as silicone oils, dimethicone, or dimethyconol or agents that promote penetration through the skin such as dimethylisosorbide or methyldioxolane. A preferred composition according to the invention contains: an exfoliant at a concentration of 0.5 to 20% by weight of the total composition a tyrosinase inhibiting agent at a concentration of 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total composition, an α-MSH antagonist at a concentration of 0.10 to 10% by weight of the total composition, an antioxidant at the concentration ranging from 0.01 to 4% by weight of the total composition , a transfer inhibitor at the concentration ranging from 0.05 to 4% by weight of the total composition, an anti-inflammatory agent at a concentration ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight of the total composition, an agent anti-UV sunscreen at a concentration ranging from 0.10 to 5% by weight of the total composition, glucosamine in an amount ranging from 0.10 to 5% per unit composition, According to the invention a preferred cosmetic composition contains : - from 0.15 to 3% of exfoliating agent as glucuronic acid - from 0.15 to 7% of tyrosinase inhibitor such as hexyl resorcinol of 0.15 to 5% of MSH antagonist agent such as dimethyl gentisate - from 0.05 to 5% d antioxidant agent such as sulforaphane - from 0.05 to 4% of transfer inhibitor such as niacinamide - from 0.05 to 2% of anti-inflammatory agent such as sphingosine or one of its esters. and from 0.05 to 2% sun protection agent associated with 0.10 to 5% of glucosamine.

Selon l'invention les préparations cosmétiques sont présentées sous forme liquide, serai solide, solide ou gazeuse. On pourra citer à cet effet les lotions, les crèmes, les laits, les poudres, les gels, les pommades, les émulsions huile dans l'eau ou eau dans l'huile. Les emplâtres ou les dispersions en aérosol. Ces différentes formes sont préparées selon les techniques usuelles de la pharmacotechmie. 30 Les exemples suivants illustrent l'invention sans toutefois la limiter. According to the invention the cosmetic preparations are presented in liquid form, will be solid, solid or gaseous. It may be mentioned for this purpose lotions, creams, milks, powders, gels, ointments, oil in water emulsions or water in oil. Plasters or aerosol dispersions. These different forms are prepared according to the usual techniques of pharmacotechy. The following examples illustrate the invention without however limiting it.

EXEMPLE I : Crème dépigmentante COMPOSANTS % Pesée INCI Fournisseurs Mode Op (g) Phase A Arlacel 165 3,5 7 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Quimasso ^ PEG-100 Stearate Glucate SS 1,50 3 Methyl glucose Unipex scsq u istea rate Lanettc 16 0,95 1,9 Cetyl alcohol Cognis Promulgen D 0,65 1,3 Cetearyl alcohol (and) Unipex Ceteareth-20 Palmitate d'éthyl 2 hexyle 6,00 12 Ethylhexyl palmitate Dubois Isononanoate d'Isononyle 4,00 8 Isononyl isononanoate Dubois Eutanol G 2,00 4 Octadodecanol Cognis Acide azelaique 2,50 5 Azelaic acid Cognis / AMI Acide glucuronique 0,25 0,5 Inebact 2 3,50 7 Pentylene glycol (and) TNEA Capryl Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl 10 Monolaurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride niacinamide 0,05 0,1 Gentisate de methyle 0,50 1 Ajouter à 75°C Hexyl resorcinol 2,00 4 PHASE B Eau Qsp NaOH 32% 0,45 0,90 Sodium hydroxyde Carlo erba Dissolvine Na2 0,10 0,2 Disodium EDTA Univar Salicyloylphytosphingosine 2,00 5 Adara Kelcoloid T.VF 1,25 2,5 Propylene Glycol ISP Alginate Glycerine 4,50 9 Glycerine AMI Prémélanger 1 Rhodicare T 0,25 0,5 Xanthan Gum Saccl PHASE C Turrax à 6 chaud Acide phytique 0,50 1 Unipex Ajouter à T545°Cunipex Sulforaphane 5,00 10 Ergothioneine 0,50 1 PHASE D Sulfite de sodium anhydre 0,10 0,2 Carlo erba Metabisulfite de sodium 0,1 0,2 Merck Eau 10 20 PHASE F ù ù ù ù Glucosamine 2,50 5 TOTAL 54,65 ---- _ _ L - - EXEMPLE II : Gel dépigmentant pour peau claire. COMPOSANTS % INCI Fournisseurs Phase A Eau 61,21 Aqua CIC Sepinov EMT 10 1,50 Isooctyl lactoyl tallate (and) isoctyl Seppic tallate NaOH 2,55 Sodium hydroxyde Natrosol Plus 330 CS 1,50 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose Aqualon Acide mandélique 3,65 Mandelic acid Merck Aloe Vera 200:1 0,07 Aloe Barbadensis Extract Agiall Meta Glucane 0,04 Schizophyllan Beta Glucan Lipotec Aquarox 15 0,04 Rosmarinus officinalis extract Vitivia Glycopatch 7,00 Biosaccharide gum-4 Solabia Sulfite de sodium 0,07 Sodium sulfite Merck Meta Bisulfite de sodium 0,07 Sodium métabisulfite Merck NaCl 0,18 Sodium chloride Lambert rivière S.A Sulforawhite 3,52 Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract Mibelle (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua/Water Niacinamide PC 0,73 niacinamide DSM Eumulgin SG 0,50 Sodium stearoyl glutamate Croda Phase B Inebact 2 1,10 Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl INEA Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dottisol 3,65 Isosorbide Dlmethylether IMCD Acide Salicylique 2,20 Salicylic Acid Sigma Phase D Twcen 20 1,39 Polysorbate 20 Masso Inebact 2 2,92 Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl INEA Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Glabridine 0,04 Licorice Extract Activcs International Twven 80 0,50 Polysorbate 80 Masso Zemea 2,20 Zemea propanediol DuPont Tate & Lyle Synovea HR 1,45 Sytheon Bakuchiol 0,18 Phenol, 4-(3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl- Sytheon 1,6-octadienyl)-,(E)- Chromabright 0,015 Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Lypotec Palmitate J Phytosphingosine 0,15 phytosfingosineù Evonik Phase E Dermofecl PA3 0,85 Sodium Phytate and aqua Lucas meyer KSG 15 0,73 Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone ù DKSH / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 1--- ù Neutrol 10% QSP Tetrahydroxypropyl- BASF ethylenediamine EXAMPLE I: Depigmenting Cream COMPONENTS% INCI Weighing Suppliers Op Mode (g) Phase A Arlacel 165 3.5 7 Glyceryl Stearate (and) Quimasso ^ PEG-100 Stearate Glucate SS 1.50 3 Methyl Glucose Unipex scsq u istea Spleen Lanettc 16 0 , 95 1.9 Cetyl alcohol Cognis Promulgen D 0.65 1.3 Cetearyl alcohol (and) Unipex Ceteareth-20 Ethyl hexyl palmitate 6.00 12 Ethylhexyl palmitate Dubois Isononyl isononanoate 4.00 8 Isononyl isononanoate Dubois Eutanol G 2.00 4 Octadodecanol Cognis Azelaic acid 2.50 5 Azelaic acid Cognis / AMI Glucuronic acid 0.25 0.5 Inebact 2 3.50 7 Pentylene glycol (and) TNEA Capryl Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl 10 Monolaurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride niacinamide 0.05 0.1 Methyl gentisate 0.50 1 Add at 75 ° C Hexyl resorcinol 2.00 4 PHASE B Water Qsp NaOH 32% 0.45 0.90 Sodium hydroxide Carlo erba Dissolvine Na2 0, 10 0.2 Disodium EDTA Univar Salicyloylphytosphingosine 2.00 5 Adara Kelcoloid T.VF 1.25 2.5 Propylene Glycol ISP Alginate Glyceri ne 4.50 9 Glycerin AMI Premix 1 Rhodicare T 0.25 0.5 Xanthan Gum Saccl PHASE C Turrax 6 warm Phytic acid 0.50 1 Unipex Add to T545 ° Cunipex Sulforaphane 5.00 10 Ergothioneine 0.50 1 PHASE D Sodium sulphite anhydrous 0.10 0.2 Carlo erba Sodium metabisulphite 0.1 0.2 Merck Water 10 20 PHASE F ù ù ù ù ù ù Glucosamine 2.50 5 TOTAL 54.65 ---- _ _ L - - EXAMPLE II: Depigmenting gel for fair skin. COMPONENTS% INCI Suppliers Phase A Water 61.21 Aqua CIC Sepinov EMT 10 1.50 Isooctyl lactoyl tallate (and) isoctyl Seppic tallate NaOH 2.55 Sodium hydroxide Natrosol Plus 330 CS 1.50 Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose Aqualon Mandelic acid 3.65 Mandelic acid Merck Aloe Vera 200: 1 0.07 Aloe Barbadensis Extract Agiall Meta Glucan 0.04 Schizophyllan Beta Glucan Lipotec Aquarox 15 0.04 Rosmarinus officinalis extract Vitivia Glycopatch 7.00 Biosaccharide gum-4 Solabia Sulfite sodium 0.07 Sodium sulfite Merck Meta Sodium bisulfite 0.07 Sodium metabisulfite Merck NaCl 0.18 Sodium chloride Lambert river SA Sulforawhite 3.52 Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract Muscle (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water Niacinamide PC 0.73 niacinamide DSM Eumulgin SG 0.50 Sodium stearoyl glutamate Croda Phase B Inebact 2 1.10 Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl INEA Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dottisol 3.65 Isosorbid e Dlmethylether IMCD Salicylic Acid 2.20 Salicylic Acid Sigma Phase D Twcen 20 1.39 Polysorbate 20 Masso Inebact 2 2.92 Pentylene Glycol (and) Caprylyl INEA Glycol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (and) Cocamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Glabridin 0.04 Licorice Extract Activcs International Twven 80 0.50 Polysorbate 80 Masso Zemea 2.20 Zemea propanediol DuPont Tate & Lyle Synovea HR 1.45 Sytheon Bakuchiol 0.18 Phenol, 4- (3-ethenyl-3,7-dimethyl) Sytheon 1,6-octadienyl) -, (E) - Chromabright 0.015 Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Lypotec Palmitate J Phytosphingosine 0.15 phytosfingosineu Evonik Phase E Dermofecl PA3 0.85 Sodium Phytate and aqua Lucas meyer KSG 15 0.73 Cyclomethicone (and) dimethicone ù DKSH / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 1 --- Neutrol 10% QSP Tetrahydroxypropyl- BASF ethylenediamine

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Compositions cosmétiques dépigmentantes destinés au traitement de la peau et des téguments des mammifères, y compris l'homme, caractérisées en ce qu'elles sont formées par l'association d'un exfoliant du type acide polyhydroxylé, d'un inhibiteur de tyrosinase, d'un antagoniste d' a-MSH et d'un agent antioxydant dans un excipient ou un véhicule inerte, non toxique. cosmétiquement acceptable REVENDICATIONS1. Depigmenting cosmetic compositions for the treatment of the skin and integuments of mammals, including humans, characterized in that they are formed by the combination of a polyhydroxy acid exfoliant, a tyrosinase inhibitor, an α-MSH antagonist and an antioxidant in an inert, non-toxic carrier or vehicle. cosmetically acceptable 2. Compositions selon la revendication 1 qui contiennent en outre un inhibiteur de transfert. Compositions according to claim 1 which additionally contain a transfer inhibitor. 3. Compositions selon les revendications 1 et 2 qui contiennent en outre un agent anti-inflammatoire. 3. Compositions according to claims 1 and 2 which additionally contain an anti-inflammatory agent. 4. Compositions selon l'une au moins des revendications 1 à 3 qui contiennent en outre un agent protecteur contre les agents UV. Compositions according to at least one of claims 1 to 3 which additionally contain a UV protective agent. 5. Compositions selon l'une au moins des revendications l à 4 qui contiennent en outre de la glucosamine. 5. Compositions according to at least one of claims 1 to 4 which additionally contain glucosamine. 6. Compositions dépigmentantes selon l'une des revendications précédentes caractérisées en ce que l'inhibiteur de tyrosinase est choisi parmi l'héxylresorcinol et le gentisate de méthyle. 6. Depigmenting compositions according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the tyrosinase inhibitor is selected from hexylresorcinol and methyl gentisate. 7. Compositions dépigmentantes selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans laquelle l'inhibiteur d' a-MSH est choisi parmi le sulforaphane, la boldine et un ester de boldine. Depigmenting compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the α-MSH inhibitor is selected from sulforaphane, boldine and a boldine ester. 8. Compositions dépigmentantes selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles l'agent antioxydant est un dérivé du resorcinol choisi parmi l'acide rosmarinique, l'acide carnosique. l'acide l'érulique, l'acide gentisique. le resveratrol et son glucoside, le picetannol et la viniferine. 8. depigmenting compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the antioxidant is a derivative of resorcinol selected from rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid. erulic acid, gentisic acid. resveratrol and its glucoside, picetannol and viniferine. 9. Compositions dépigmentantes selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles l'inhibiteur de transfert est le niacinamide ou un de ses dérivés. 9. Depigmenting compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the transfer inhibitor is niacinamide or a derivative thereof. 10. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles la concentration en agent exfoliant s'échelonne entre 0,5 et 20 % en poids de la composition totale. 10. Cosmetic compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of exfoliating agent ranges between 0.5 and 20% by weight of the total composition. 11. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles la concentration en inhibiteur de tyrosinase s'échelonne de 0,1 à 10 % en poids de la composition totale. 11. Cosmetic compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of tyrosinase inhibitor ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the total composition. 12. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles la concentration en antagoniste d' a-MSH s'échelonne de 0,01 à 10 % en poids de la composition totale. 12. Cosmetic compositions according to one of the preceding claims wherein the concentration of α-MSH antagonist ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight of the total composition. 13. Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans lesquelles la concentration en agent antioxydant s'échelonne de 0,01 à 4 % en poids de la composition totale. 13. Cosmetic compositions according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the concentration of antioxidant agent ranges from 0.01 to 4% by weight of the total composition. 14. Compositions cosmétiques selon l'une des revendications précédentes dans lesquelles l'excipient ou le véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable contient un agent épaississant, un agent émulsionnant, un agent parfumant, un agent aromatisant, un agent filmogène, un agent adoucissant et/ou un agent colorant. Cosmetic compositions according to one of the preceding claims, in which the excipient or the cosmetically acceptable vehicle contains a thickening agent, an emulsifying agent, a perfuming agent, a flavoring agent, a film-forming agent, a softening agent and / or an agent. dye. 15. Une composition cosmétique selon, l'une des revendications précédentes qui renferme de 0,15 à 3 % d'acide glucuronique de 0,15 à 7 % d'hexylresorcinol de 0,15 à 5 % de gentisate de diméthyle de 0,05 à 5 % de sulforaphane de 0,05 à 4 % de niacinamide de 0,05 à 3 % d'acide phytique de 0,05 à 2 % de salicyloylphytosphingosine de 0,1 à 5 % d'ergothionéineet de 0,10 à 5 % de glucosamine dans un excipient ou un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable. À.4 15. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims which contains 0.15 to 3% glucuronic acid of 0.15 to 7% hexylresorcinol of 0.15 to 5% of dimethyl gentisate of 0, 05 to 5% sulforaphane 0.05 to 4% niacinamide 0.05 to 3% phytic acid 0.05 to 2% salicyloylphytosphingosine 0.1 to 5% ergothionein and 0.10 to 5% glucosamine in a cosmetically acceptable excipient or vehicle. A.4
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