FR3097760A1 - Process for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the application of an extemporaneous mixture of a direct dye and of a composition comprising a liquid fatty substance, a solid fatty substance and a surfactant. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application of an extemporaneous mixture of an aqueous composition B and of a composition in foam form obtained from of a composition A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, at least one solid fatty substance and at least one surfactant, aqueous composition B and / or composition A comprising a direct dye.

Description

Process for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the application of an extemporaneous mixture of a direct dye and a composition comprising a liquid fatty substance, a solid fatty substance and a surfactant.

The invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising the application of an extemporaneous mixture of an aqueous composition B and of a composition in the form of a mousse obtained from of a composition A comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, at least one solid fatty substance and at least one surfactant, the aqueous composition B and/or the composition A comprising a direct dye .

For a long time, many people have tried to change the color of their hair, and in particular to color it, for example, in order to hide their white hair.

To color human keratin fibres, there are mainly two methods.

The first type of coloring is so-called permanent or oxidation coloring, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds.

It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors.

The second type of coloring is so-called semi-permanent coloring or direct coloring, which consists in applying direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules having an affinity for said fibers to the keratin fibers, leaving them to pause, then rinsing them.

In order to produce these dyes, the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes, and natural dyes.

Most colorings with natural dyes, such as henna and indigo in particular, are difficult to achieve and have several drawbacks. Indeed, a kind of "paste" (often called "poultice") is first made from crushed or powdered leaves, which is then diluted at the time of use with hot water, then said paste is applied to the keratin fibres.

In addition, during the preparation and application of the composition to the keratin fibers, it is not always possible to obtain satisfactory impregnation due to the low consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder . Indeed, during mixing and soaking, lumps form and are then difficult to break.

Also, the poultice tends to dry on the head during the break time which makes rinsing difficult.

Preparation and coloring processes with natural dyes are relatively complex and time-consuming.

There is therefore a real need to develop a coloring process using direct dyes, in particular natural dyes, such as natural plant powder, which are more practical, quick and easy to implement than conventional coloring methods while capable of producing satisfactory coloration, for example powerful and intense colorations.

It has been discovered that the extemporaneous mixture of a composition comprising at least one fatty substance having a melting point lower than or equal to 25°C, at least one fatty substance having a melting point higher than 25°C and a surfactant under foam form with an aqueous composition, one and/or the other of the compositions comprising at least one direct dye, in particular a natural dye, made it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Indeed, this particular process makes it possible to generate, by shearing carried out directly before application, a coloring foam having a firm and stable texture over time, with good qualities of use, in particular in terms of ease of application and distribution. on keratin materials and rinsability.

The subject of the invention is therefore a process for dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
i) the generation of a foam from a composition A comprising:
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C,
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25°C,
- one or more surfactant(s), and
- optionally one or more direct dyes,
ii) mixing composition A in foam form with an aqueous composition B optionally comprising one or more direct dyes,
composition A and/or composition B comprising one or more direct dyes,
iii) applying the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin fibers.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a coloring mousse which has a firm and creamy texture and allows easy spreading and distribution of the product on the keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, while having good dyeing properties.

A subject of the invention is also a kit comprising a composition A as defined above and a direct dye, preferably a natural dye, preferably a natural dye in powder form.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.

Composition A

Composition A used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25°C, and one or more surfactant(s).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

The term “fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

Liquid fatty substances
Composition A according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25° C., preferably less than or equal to 20° C., at atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa). In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “liquid fatty substance(s)” or “oil”.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

“Non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing no Si—O bonds and “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si—O bond.

Preferably the liquid fatty substances are non-silicone.

More particularly, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. according to the invention are chosen from liquid C ₆ to C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, oils non-silicone of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils , and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the C ₆ to C ₁₆ liquid hydrocarbons, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam ^® , and their mixtures.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names ^Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “ ^FLUTEC® PC1” and “ ^FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF ^5050® ” and “PF ^5060® ” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “ ^FORALKYL® ” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF ^5052® ” by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. of carbon. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched in C ₃ to C ₂₆ and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear C ₁ to C ₂₆ or branched C ₃ to C ₂₆ , the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal at 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids from C ₄ to C ₂₂ and of alcohols from C ₁ to C ₂₂ and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C ₂ to C ₂₆ di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

Composition A may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and fatty acids C ₆ to C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name ^Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

The silicone oils that can be used in composition A according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25° C., and preferably 1.10 ^-5 at 1 m ² /s.

Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils that can be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed via a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from amino groups and alkoxy groups.

The organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in the work by Walter NOLL “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60° C. and 260° C., and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE ^® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE ^® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ^® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as VOLATILE ^SILICONE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa -2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m²/s at 25°C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name “SH 200” by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS “Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics”.

Preferably, non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are used.

These silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which there may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:
- ^SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or ^MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the MIRASIL ^® series marketed by the company RHODIA;
- 200 series oils from DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;
- VISCASIL ^® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

As regards the liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they can in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products marketed under the following names:
- SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA;
- the oils of the RHODORSIL ^® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;
- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;
- BAYER's PK series silicones such as the PK20 product;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;
- certain oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF series such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- amino groups, substituted or not, such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1 to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups,
- hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from sunflower oil, soybean oil , olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. present in composition A according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75 % by weight, more preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, and better still from 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, composition A does not comprise liquid silicone fatty substances.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25° C. present in composition A according to the invention is advantageously greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, and better still from 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Solid fatty substances
Composition A according to the present invention further comprises one or more fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25° C., preferably greater than or equal to 28° C., more preferably greater than or equal to 30° C. at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). In the present application, this or these fatty substances are also called “solid fatty substance(s)”.

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s ⁻¹ .

Preferably, the solid fatty substances are non-silicone.

The fatty substance or substances having a melting point above 25° C. are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides , mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty acids”, is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty acids that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid , arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferably, the fatty acid or acids are chosen from behenic acid and arachidic acid.

By “fatty alcohol”, is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);
- cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);
- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);
- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);
- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);
- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);
- cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);
- montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);
- myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachydic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is behenyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from a C ₉ -C ₂₆ carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C ₉ -C fatty alcohol. ₂₆ .

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and from Saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di- or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-alcohols. -, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C ₂ -C ₂₆ .

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C ₉ -C ₂₆ alkyl stearates, especially myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40° C. and which can go up to at 200° C., and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically detectable and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Bran Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricury Wax, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, and Sumac Wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention may also be made of C ₂ to C ₆₀ microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

Mention may also be made of the polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C ₈ to C ₃₂ fatty chains. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, the hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S ^® by the company HETERENE.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin ^16L64® and ^22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As wax, it is also possible to use a C ₂₀ to C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P ^® ”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® ” and “Kester Wax K 80 P ^® ” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made in particular of carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300 ^® and 310 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200 ^® , 220 ^® , 220L ^® and 250S ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip ^519® and 519 ^L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

The ceramides or analogues of ceramides such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; particular mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be employed preferably correspond to the following formula:

in which :
- R ₁ denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ saturated or unsaturated fatty acid;
- R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl) _n group, a (galactosyl) _m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
- R ₃ denotes a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups;
it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R ₃ can also denote a C ₁₅ -C ₂₆ alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ alpha-hydroxy acid.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a hydrogen atom and R ₃ denotes a saturated linear C ₁₅ group.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ₃ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

It is also possible to use the compounds for which R ₁ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; R ₂ denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R ₃ denotes a saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH ₂ ) ₁₂ -CH ₃ group.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

Preferably, the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from behenyl alcohol, behenic acid, and their mixtures.

The total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. advantageously ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25° C. advantageously ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition a.

The weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C is advantageously greater than or equal to 3 .5, preferably greater than 5.

Preferably, the total content of the fatty substance(s) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25 ° C) is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

The weight ratio between the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a melting point greater than 25°C is advantageously higher or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than 5.

Preferably, the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (i.e. of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) having a above 25° C.) is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Surfactants:

Composition A according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants. These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO ₂ H, CO ₂ ^- , SO ₃ H, SO ₃ ^- , OSO ₃ H, OSO ₃ ^- , H ₂ PO ₃ , HPO ₃ ^- , PO ₃ ^2- , H ₂ PO ₂ , HPO ₂ ^- , PO ₂ ^2- , POH and PO ^- .

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates , alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )-N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding unsalified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulphate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures:

polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

alkyl D galactoside uronic acids;

acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; And

carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters.

Very particularly, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl sulphates and acylglutamates are preferably used.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. , said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C ₃ -C ₈ alkyl)betaines or (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl) )amido(C ₆ -C ₈ alkyl)sulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of the following structures (A ₁ ), (A ₂ ) and (A ₃ ) respectively:

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )(CH ₂ COO ^- ) (A ₁ )

in which :

R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an R _a -COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

And

R' _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (A ₂ )

in which :

B represents -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX',

B' represents -(CH ₂ ) _z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X' represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y' represents –COOH, –COOZ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ Z',

Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,

R' _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R' _a -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds of formula (A ₁ ) or (A ₂ ) are classified in the CTFA dictionary, ^5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionate sodium, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

R _a ''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e ) (A ₃ )

formula in which:

Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';

R _d and R _e , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

Z'' represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

R _a '' represents a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ''-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (A ₃ ), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl)amido(C 3 -C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines such as cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that can be used in composition A of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols or fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl) oxides )-aminopropylmorpholine.

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in composition A according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (X):

(X)

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl,(C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl, X ^- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphates, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl- or (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl aryl sulphonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (XI) below:

(XI)

in which

R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group,

R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ denotes a methyl group, R ₁₅ denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di- or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (XII) below:

(XI)

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -N ⁺ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a ) group,

R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulphates, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl-sulphonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (XIII) below:

(XIII)

in which :

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

- the group ,

- C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon R ₂₇ groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

- the group ,

- C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon R ₂₉ groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

r, s and t, identical or different, are integers from 2 to 6,

r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1,

r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t,

y is an integer from 1 to 10,

x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,

X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion,

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ and that when z is 0 then R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉ .

The R ₂₂ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R ₂₂ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₇ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₉ , it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which are identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfate, alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl- sulfonate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.

The anion X ⁻ is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.

More particularly, in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1,

- z is equal to 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂₃ is chosen from:

- the group ,

- methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- the hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₅ is chosen from:

- the group ,

- the hydrogen atom,

- R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of the salts, in particular the chloride or the methyl sulphate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants and/or cationic surfactants, preferably from anionic surfactants.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from surfactants having an HLB value greater than or equal to 7, preferably from 7 to 18.

The term HLB (from the English “Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance”) is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant at 25° C. within the meaning of Griffin.

By hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) is meant the balance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. The value of HLB according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

Preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 4% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

Advantageously, the weight ratio between the total content of fatty substances (that is to say, of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25° C. and of the fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25 ° C) and the total content of the surfactant(s) is greater than or equal to 20, preferably greater than or equal to 30, better still, greater than or equal to 40.

Preferably, composition A is anhydrous.

By "anhydrous composition", is meant within the meaning of the present invention a composition comprising a water content less than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.5 % by weight, more preferably still less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the anhydrous compositions according to the invention are completely free of water (0%).

Additives
Composition A according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, mineral or organic pigments, sequestering agents, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickening agents, in particular thickening agents polymers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives and pigments.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives may generally be present in an amount comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, composition A used in the process according to the invention is in the form of a gel.

The consistency of the gel can be characterized by penetrometry. Preferably, the gel has a minimum penetration force greater than or equal to 200 g, more preferably ranging from 220 to 500 g.

The penetration force can be measured as follows: a cylindrical rod consisting of a cylindrical cell (diameter 2 cm) is made to penetrate the product at a fixed speed up to a predefined penetration distance, then to extract the probe of the product at this same speed. The curve of the force exerted by the product on the probe (expressed in g) as a function of time is recorded. Measurements can be made on a Swantech TA.XT PLUS Texturometer, in 30mL pots, with a force search speed of 10.00 mm/sec and a penetration speed of 0.30 mm/sec ., and a penetration distance traveled of 10.00mm.

Direct dye(s)
As indicated above, composition (A) and/or composition (B) of the process according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye.

By “direct dye”, we mean natural and/or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

They can be ionic or non-ionic.

These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from neutral, acid or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acid or cationic azo direct dyes, tetraazapentamethine dyes, quinone and in particular neutral, acid or cationic anthraquinone dyes, azine direct dyes , triarylmethane direct dyes, azomethine direct dyes and natural direct dyes.

Examples of suitable direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines, and styryl dyes; carbonyls; azines; nitro (hetero)aryl; tri-(hetero)aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

Preferably, the direct dye(s) contain at least one quaternized cationic chromophore or at least one chromophore bearing a quaternized or quaternizable cationic group.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes comprise at least one quaternized cationic chromophore.

By way of direct dye according to the invention, mention may be made of acridine dyes; acridones; anthranthrones; anthrapyrimidines; anthraquinones; azines; (poly)azo, hydrazono or hydrazones, in particular arylhydrazones; azomethines; benzanthropes; benzimidazoles; benzimidazolones; benzindoles; benzoxazoles; benzopyrans; benzothiazoles; benzoquinones; bisazines; bis isoindolines; carboxanilides; coumarins; cyanines such as azacarbocyanines, diazacarbocyanines, diazahemicyanines, hemicyanines, or tetraazacarbocyanines; diazines; diketopyrrolopyrroles; dioxazines; diphenylamines; diphenylmethanes; dithiazines; flavonoids such as flavanthrones and flavones; fluorindins; formazans; indamines; indanthrones; indigoids and pseudo-indigoids; indophenols; indoanilines; isoindolines; isoindolinones; isovianthrone; lactones; (poly)methines such as dimethines of the stilbene or styryl type; naphthalimides; naphthanilides; naphtholactams; naphthoquinones; nitro, in particular nitro(hetero)aromatics; oxadiazoles; oxazines; periones; perinones; perylenes; phenazines; phenoxazine; phenothiazines; phthalocyanine; polyenes/carotenoids; porphyrins; pyranthrone; pyrazolanthrones; pyrazolones; pyrimidinoanthropes; pyronins; quinacridones; quinolines; quinophthalones; squares; tetrazoliums; thiazines, thioindigo; thiopyronines; triarylmethanes, or xanthenes.

For cationic azo dyes, particular mention may be made of those derived from the cationic dyes described in the Kirk Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, “Dyes, Azo”, J. Wiley & sons, updated on 04/19/2010.

Among the azo dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic azo dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the direct dye(s) are chosen from cationic dyes called “basic dyes”.

Mention may be made, among the azo dyes described in the International Color Index 3rd edition, and in particular of the following compounds:

-Basic Red 22

-Basic Red 76

-Basic Yellow 57

-Basic Brown 16

-Basic Brown 17

Among the cationic quinone dyes, those mentioned in the aforementioned International Color Index are suitable, and among these, the following dyes may be mentioned, among others:

-Basic Blue 22

-Basic Blue 99

Among the azine dyes which are suitable, mention may be made of those listed in the International Color Index and for example the following dyes:

-Basic Blue 17

-Basic Red 2.

Among the cationic triarylmethane dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, in addition to those listed in the Color Index, of the following dyes:

-Basic Green 1

-Basic Purple 3

-Basic Purple 14

-Basic Blue 7

-Basic Blue 26.

Mention may also be made of cationic dyes in documents US 5888252, EP 1133975, WO 03/029359, EP 860636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144, EP 714954. Mention may also be made of those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K. VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academic press vol 1 to 7, in the encyclopedia "Kirk Othmer" "Chemical technology", chapter "dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and sons, and in various chapters of ULLMANN's ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial chemistry 7th edition, Wiley and sons.

Preferably, the cationic direct dyes are chosen from those derived from azo and hydrazono type dyes.

According to a particular embodiment, the direct dyes are cationic azo, described in EP 850636, FR 2788433, EP 920856, WO 9948465, FR 2757385, EP 850637, EP 918053, WO 9744004, FR 2570946, FR 2285851, DE 3,53836 2189006, fr 1560664, fr 1540423, fr 1567219, FR 1516943, FR 1221122, of 4220388, of 4137005, WO 0166646, US 5708151, WO 9501772, WO 515144, GB 1195386, US 35248413, GB 738585, DE 2527638, FR 2275462, GB 1974-27645, Acta Histochem. (1978), 61(1), 48-52; Tsitologiya (1968), 10(3), 403-5; Zh. Obshch. Khim. (1970), 40(1), 195-202; Ann. Chem. (Rome) (1975), 65(5-6), 305-14; Journal of the Chinese Chemical Society (Taipei) (1998), 45(1), 209-211; Rev. rum. Chem. (1988), 33(4), 377-83; Text. Res. J. (1984), 54(2), 105-7; Chem. Ind. (Milan) (1974), 56(9), 600-3; Khim. Tekhnol. (1979), 22(5), 548-53; Ger. Monatsh. Chem. (1975), 106(3), 643-8; Mr R. L. Bull. Res. Dev. (1992), 6(2), 21-7; Lihua Jianyan, Huaxue Fence (1993), 29(4), 233-4; Pigment dyes. (1992), 19(1), 69-79; Pigment dyes. (1989), 11(3), 163-72.

Preferably, the cationic direct dye(s) comprise a quaternary ammonium group, more preferably the cationic charge is endocyclic.

These cationic radicals are for example a cationic radical:

- with exocyclic charge (di/tri)(C1-C8)alkylammonium, or

- with an endocyclic charge such as comprising a cationic heteroaryl group chosen from: acridinium, benzimidazolium, benzobistriazolium, benzopyrazolium, benzopyridazinium, benzoquinolium, benzothiazolium, benzotriazolium, benzoxazolium, bi-pyridinium, bis-tetrazolium, dihydrothiazolium, imidazopyridinium, imidazolium, indolium, isoquinolium, naphthoimidazolium, naphthooxazolium, naphthopyrazolium, oxadiazolium, oxazolium, oxazolopyridinium, oxonium, phénazinium, phénooxazolium, pyrazinium, pyrazolium, pyrazoyltriazolium, pyridinium, pyridinoimidazolium, pyrrolium, pyrylium , quinolium, tétrazolium, thiadiazolium, thiazolium, thiazolopyridinium, thiazoylimidazolium, thiopyrylium, triazolium ou xanthylium.

Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formula (II) and (IIII), the azo compounds of formulas (IV) and (V) below:

Het ⁺ -C(R ^a )=NN(R ^b )-Ar, Q ^-

(I)

Het ⁺ -N(R ^a )-N=C(R ^b )-Ar, Q ^-

(I')

Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar, Q ^-

(II)

Ar ⁺ -N=N-Ar'', Q ^-

(II')

Het ⁺ -N=N-Ar'-N=N-Ar, Q ^-

(III)

formulas (II) to (V) in which:

Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferably by at least one (C1-C8)alkyl group such as methyl;

Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C1-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (C1-C8)alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (C1-C8)alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(C1 -C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino, v) N-(C1-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino optionally substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

Ar'' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino, (C1 -C8)alkoxy or phenyl;

Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C8)alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

Q- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

Particular mention may be made of direct dyes with cationic charge, endocyclic azo and hydrazono of formula (II) to (V) as defined above. More particularly the cationic direct dyes of formula (II) to (V) with endocyclic cationic charges described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954. Preferably the following direct dyes:

(II-1)

(IV-1)

formulas (II-1) and (IV-1) in which:

- R1 represents a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

- R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group such as methyl; And

- R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C1-C8)alkyl optionally substituted, (C1-C8)alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl groups with a hydroxyl group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

- Q- is an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesityl.

In particular, the dyes of formula (II-1) and (IV-1) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives:

Basic Red 51 Basic Orange 31 Basic Yellow 87

with Q' an anionic counter ion as defined previously, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesityl.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the direct dyes are fluorescent i.e. they contain at least one fluorescent chromophore as defined above.

As fluorescent dyes, mention may be made of the radicals resulting from the dyes acridines, acridones, benzanthrones, benzimidazoles, benzimidazolones, benzindoles, benzoxazoles, benzopyrans, benzothiazoles, coumarins, difluoro{2-[(2H-pyrrol-2-ylidene-kN) methyl]-1H-pyrrolato-kN}bores (BODIPY®), diketopyrrolo-pyrroles, fluorindines, (poly)methines (including cyanines and styryls/hemicyanines), naphthalimides, naphthanilides, naphthylamine (such as dansyls), oxadiazoles, oxazines, periones , perinones, perylenes, polyenes/carotenoids, squaranes, stilbenes, xanthenes.

Mention may also be made of the fluorescent dyes described in the documents EP 1133975, WO 03/029359, EP 860636, WO 95/01772, WO 95/15144, EP 714954 and those listed in the encyclopedia "The chemistry of synthetic dye" by K VENKATARAMAN, 1952, Academic press vol 1 to 7, in the encyclopedia "Kirk Othmer" "Chemical technology", chapter "dyes and Dye intermediate", 1993, Wiley and sons, and in various chapters of the encyclopedia "ULLMANN's ENCYCLOPEDIA of Industrial chemistry" 7th edition, Wiley and sons, in The Handbook — A Guide to Fluorescent Probes and Labeling Technologies, 10th Ed Molecular Probes/Invitrogen – Oregon 2005 distributed via the Internet or in previous printed editions.

According to a variant of the invention, the fluorescent dye or dyes are cationic and comprise at least one quaternary ammonium radical such as those of formula (V) below:

W+–[C(Rc)=C(Rd)]m’–Ar, Q-

(V)

formula (V) in which:

W+ represents a cationic heterocyclic or heteroaryl group, particularly comprising a quaternary ammonium optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C8)alkyl groups optionally substituted in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups;

Ar representing an aryl group such as phenyl or naphthyl, optionally substituted preferentially by i) one or more halogen atoms, such as chlorine, fluorine; ii) one or more (C1-C8)alkyl groups, preferably C1-C4 such as methyl; iii) one or more hydroxyl groups; iv) one or more (C1-C8)alkoxy groups such as methoxy; v) one or more hydroxy(C1-C8)alkyl groups such as hydroxyethyl, vi) one or more amino or (di)(C1-C8)alkylamino groups, preferably with the C1-C4 alkyl part optionally substituted by one or several hydroxyls such as (di)hydroxyethylamino, vii) with one or more acylamino groups; viii) one or more heterocycloalkyl groups such as piperazinyl, piperidinyl or 5 or 6 membered heteroaryl such as pyrrolidinyl, pyridinyl and imidazolinyl;

m' represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 4, particularly m is 1 or 2; more preferably 1;

Rc, Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkyl group, preferably C1-C4, or else Rc contiguous to W+ and/or Rd contiguous to Ar form with the atoms which les carry a (hetero)cycloalkyl, particularly Rc is contiguous to W+ and form a (hetero)cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl;

Q- is an organic or inorganic anionic counterion as defined above.

By natural dyes is meant any dye or dye precursor having at least one natural occurrence and produced by extraction (and possibly purification) from a plant matrix, or by grinding. Natural dyes can also be obtained by fermentation.

The natural dye(s) are, for example, chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, anthragallol, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinusolin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, orceins, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin, brazilein, santaline, santarubin, carthamine, flavonoids (with for example morine, apigenidin, quercetin), anthocyanins (of the apigenidin type), carotenoids, or mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use extracts, decoctions or ground materials (such as powders), containing these natural dyes and in particular extracts, decoctions or ground materials obtained for example from henna, pernambuco wood, logwood, sandalwood, sorrel , turmeric, madder, indigo, sorghum, cochineal, carrots, annatto, murex, brazilwood, safflower.

Preferably, the natural dye(s) are chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, chlorophyllin, extracts of sorghum, orceins, cochineal carmine, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin and brazilein, extracts of logwood, or sorrel or Brazilwood and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from natural dyes.

Preferably, the direct dyes are in powder form.

More preferably, the direct dye or dyes are chosen from natural dyes in powder form.

When the natural dye or dyes are in powder form, the powder can be sieved to obtain particles of upper limit size corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the sieve, particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to a particular mode of the invention, the size of the particles of the powder is fine.

According to the invention, the size of the particles of the powder is preferably less than or equal to 500 μm.

Preferably, the powder consists of particles with a size comprised inclusively between 10 and 300 μm and more particularly between 50 and 250 μm.

It is understood that said particles preferably have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powders.

When it comprises some, composition A may comprise one or more direct dyes in a content ranging from 0.0001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 30% by weight, better still, from 0.05 to 20 % by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

Aqueous composition B

The coloring process according to the invention uses an aqueous composition B.

Composition B can comprise one or more direct dyes as defined above, preferably one or more natural dyes as defined above.

Preferably, composition B comprises one or more direct dyes, more preferably one or more natural dyes, better still one or more natural dyes in powder form.

When composition B comprises one or more direct dye(s), the total content of direct dye(s) preferably ranges from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

When composition B comprises one or more natural dye(s), the total content of natural dye(s) preferably ranges from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

Composition B comprises water in a content which may range from 50 to 100% by weight, preferably from 60 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Process

The process for dyeing keratin fibers of the invention comprises:

i) the generation of a foam from composition A as described above,

ii) mixing composition A in foam form with aqueous composition B as described above, and

iii) applying the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin fibres.

Preferably, step (i) of generating the foam is carried out by mechanical shearing of composition A. The shearing can be carried out, for example, with a whisk, an electric mixer, an expansion system by injection of air, or another pump bottle equipped with a push button.

Preferably, step (i) of generating the foam is carried out at the time of use, just before application, more preferably 30 seconds to several hours before application, even more preferably 1 minute to 2 hours, better still 1 minute to 30 minutes before application.

According to one embodiment, composition A comprises a direct dye. According to this embodiment, the direct dye can be mixed with the other compounds of composition A during its manufacture. As a variant, the direct dye can be mixed extemporaneously at the time of use with composition A, before generating the foam, the direct dye then preferably being introduced in powder form.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous composition B comprises one or more direct dyes, preferably one or more natural dyes.

Preferably, composition B is obtained extemporaneously at the time of use by mixing the direct dye(s) with water.

Preferably, when mixing the dyes with the water, the temperature of the water is between 10 and 100°C, better still between 40 and 100°C,

In particular when the direct dyes are natural dyes, the water is preferably hot, in particular the water is at a temperature between 50 and 100°C.

Preferably, composition B is obtained by mixing the direct dye(s) and water with a weight ratio of the amount of direct dye(s) relative to the amount of water ranging from 0.01 to 10 , preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, more preferably from 0.2 to 1, more preferably from 0.25 to 0.5.

According to this embodiment, composition B is preferably incorporated into composition A which is already in the form of a mousse. Mixing is carried out with gentle agitation, for example using a spatula.

Composition A and composition B are mixed with a weight ratio of the amount of composition A relative to the amount of composition B ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 3, better still ranging from 0 .3 to 1.5.

The mixture obtained can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres, which may have been washed beforehand, for example with a shampoo.

The mixture is applied according to a pause time which can range from 10 minutes to 2 hours, preferably from 30 to 60 minutes.

Preferably, the step of applying the mixture according to the invention is followed by a step of rinsing the keratin fibres, preferably with water.

At the end of the coloring process, the keratinous fibers optionally undergo washing followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

set
The invention also relates to a kit comprising a composition A as defined above, and a direct dye as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the direct dye is a natural dye, preferably a natural dye in powder form.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples
In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated in mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compositions A1 and A2 according to the present invention were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below:

A1
(invention) A2
(invention) Sunflower oil 89 89 Behenyl alcohol 7 7 Behenic acid 3 3 Sodium N-Lauroyl L-Glutamate 1 - Sodium lauryl sulphate - 1

After mixing the ingredients of the table, compositions are obtained in gel form.

A foam is generated from each composition A1 and A2 using a Philips brand electric mono-whisk (position No. 2) for 2 minutes.

Dyes powder Henna (in powder form) 78 Indigo (in powder form) 22

In addition, an aqueous composition B is made by mixing 2.5g of dye powder from the table above (1.95g of henna and 0.55g of indigo) with 7.5g of hot water at 50°C. You get a poultice.

1 part by weight of composition B obtained is then mixed with 0.5 part by weight of each composition A1 and A2 in the form of a foam using a spatula.

We thus obtain the mixtures A1' and A2' which are easy to make. There are no lumps, and you get a coloring foam with a smooth texture.

Compositions A1' and A2' and composition B are applied to locks of 90% white natural hair weighing 1 g, at the rate of 7.5 g of composition per lock of hair.

Compositions A1' and A2' spread more easily than composition B.

The compositions are left on the locks for 60 minutes, then rinsed with water for 30 seconds.

Compositions A1' and A2' rinse out more easily than composition B which has dried on the wick.

An increase in color is obtained with compositions A1' and A2' equivalent to that obtained with composition B.

The process according to the invention therefore makes it possible to improve the qualities of use of the coloring compositions while retaining good dyeing properties.

Comparative process:

Composition A1 was first mixed with composition B, in the same proportions as before, then the foam was generated with the same equipment as before. A non-homogeneous mixture is then obtained.

Claims (19)

Process for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:
i) the generation of a foam from a composition (A) comprising:
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C,
- one or more fatty substances having a melting point above 25°C,
- one or more surfactant(s),
- optionally one or more direct dyes,
ii) mixing composition (A) in foam form with an aqueous composition (B) optionally comprising one or more direct dyes,
composition (A) and/or composition (B) comprising one or more direct dyes,
iii) applying the mixture obtained in step ii) to the keratin fibres. Process according to Claim 1, in which the aqueous composition (B) comprises one or more direct dyes, the composition (B) being obtained extemporaneously at the time of use by mixing the direct dye(s) with water, preferably water at a temperature between 10 and 100°C, better still between 40 and 100°C. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that composition (B) is obtained by mixing the direct dye(s) and water with a weight ratio of the amount of direct dye(s) to the amount of water ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, more preferably from 0.2 to 1, more preferably from 0.25 to 0.5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) and the composition (B) are mixed with a weight ratio of the quantity of composition (A) relative to the quantity of composition (B) ranging from 0 1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 3, more preferably ranging from 0.3 to 1.5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that step (i) of generating the foam is carried out by shearing the composition (A). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from liquid C ₆ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbons, the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or different fatty alcohols triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C are chosen from triglyceride-type oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, avocado oil, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the fatty substance or substances having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C is greater than or equal to 70% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 75% by weight, more preferably from 75 to 95% by weight, better still from 80 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25°C are chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, mono-, di- or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, preferably from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from alcohol behenyl, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content in composition (A) of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point above 25°C ranges from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio in composition (A) between the total content of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substances having a melting point greater than 25° C. is greater than or equal to 3.5, preferably greater than or equal to 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content in composition (A) of the fatty substance(s) having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and of the fatty substance(s) having a above 25° C. is greater than or equal to 75% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 80% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant(s) have an HLB value greater than or equal to 7, preferably between 7 and 18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the surfactant(s) in the composition (A) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 4, %, better from 0.2 to 3%, even better from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) and the total content of the surfactant(s) in the composition (A) is greater than or equal to 20, of preferably greater than or equal to 30, more preferably greater than or equal to 40. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition (A) is anhydrous. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the direct dye is a natural dye, preferably chosen from lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, chlorophyllin, sorghum extracts, orceins, cochineal carmine, hematein, hematoxylin, brazilin and brazilein, logwood, sorrel or brazilwood extracts and mixtures thereof. Kit comprising a composition (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims and a direct dye, preferably a natural dye, preferably a natural dye in powder form.