FR3082746A1 - EMULSION COMPRISING AN ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE, PEARLS AND MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE METHOD USING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is compositions for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips, in the form of an emulsion, characterized in that it comprises: - at least 30% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition; - at least one non-volatile oil; at least one surfactant of the alkylpolyglycoside type, having the following structure: R (O) (G) x (I) in which the radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24, preferably C16-C24, alkyl radical, and preferably C18-C24; G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose and preferably xylose, x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 4; - at least one mother-of-pearl. It also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, in which the abovementioned composition is applied.

Description

EMULSION COMPRISING AN ALKYLPOLYGLYCOSIDE, PEARLS AND MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE METHOD USING THE SAME

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips. More particularly, the composition is in the form of a water in oil (W / O) or oil in water (O / W) emulsion endowed with optimized cosmetic and sensory qualities.

Emulsions are very useful in cosmetics, especially for their ability to form films on the surface of the skin, colored or not, often finer than those obtained with anhydrous compositions comprising only non-volatile oils.

The emulsions also make it possible to widen the range of cosmetic products, in particular by making possible the incorporation of water-soluble compounds (active, dyes).

These emulsions obviously provide a different sensorality from anhydrous compositions. In particular, they provide a fresh effect during application, more marked when the emulsion is direct, on the one hand because the water is directly available for application, and on the other hand because the water content is important.

One of the problems that can be encountered with emulsions, however, is due to the presence of surfactants, which are necessary for stabilizing the composition. Indeed, they can cause skin sensitization, sometimes with tingling sensations.

The present invention therefore relates to emulsions having a quantity of water which remains large, with improved tolerance, which remains comfortable.

Thus, a first object of the invention is represented by a composition for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips, in the form of an emulsion comprising:

- At least 30% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition;

- at least one non-volatile oil;

at least one surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type, having the following structure: R (O) (G) _X (I) in which the radical R is a linear or branched alkyl radical in C14-C24, preferably in C16-C24, and preferably C18-C24;

G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose and preferably xylose, x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 4;

- at least one mother-of-pearl.

It also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin or the lips, in which the composition described above is applied.

The composition according to the invention has good wear properties, which are characterized in particular by a creamy texture, which spreads easily, without leaking out of the areas to be made up, or migrating.

In addition, a uniform and comfortable deposit is obtained. Indeed, the deposit is not very sticky and provides a freshness effect on application, regardless of the direction of the emulsion.

In the case of reverse emulsions, the composition according to the invention is less oily, less oily at the end of application than conventional W / O emulsions.

The compositions obtained are stable. There is in particular no significant drop in viscosity during storage.

It has also been found, completely surprisingly, that the compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a deposit giving an unusual metallized effect; this effect being exacerbated when the composition comprises both nacres and pigments.

In addition, this composition can equally be applied to the skin, in particular to the cheeks, to the eyelids, as well as to the lips, which represents another advantage of the present invention.

However, other characteristics of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in a fluid form, of the liquid to cream type.

The composition more particularly has a viscosity at 25 ° C of between 0.2 and 9 Pa.s, more particularly of 0.2 and 6 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.5 and 4 Pa.s.

Protocol for viscosity measurement:

The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25 ° C, using a RHEOMAT RM 100 viscometer equipped with a mobile No. 2, 3 or 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within of the composition, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

COSMETIC COMPOSITION

The composition according to the invention is therefore an emulsion, which can be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion known as a reverse emulsion, or oil-in-water known as a direct emulsion.

A reverse emulsion generally consists of a fatty phase (containing liquid fatty substances, possibly pasty compounds, possibly waxes and their mixtures), in this case the continuous phase, and an aqueous liquid phase, in this case the dispersed phase.

A direct emulsion generally consists of an aqueous liquid phase in this case the continuous phase, and a fatty phase (containing liquid fatty substances, possibly pasty compounds, possibly waxes and their mixtures), in this case the phase dispersed.

APG

As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one alkylpolyglycoside, having the following structure:

R (O) (G) _X (I) in which the radical R is a linear or branched C14-C24, preferably C16-C24, and C18-C24 alkyl radical

G represents a reduced sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms and x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 4.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "alkylpolyglycoside" means an alkylmonooside (degree of polymerization 1) or alkylpolyoside (degree of polymerization greater than 1). In the context of the present invention, the alkylpolyglycosides can be used alone or in the form of mixtures of several alkylpolyglycosides.

In a preferred embodiment, G can be chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose , allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch, and more preferably denotes glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose.

It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the alkylpolyglycoside can be in isomeric form a or β, in form L or D and the configuration of the saccharide residue can be of the furanoside or pyranoside type.

It is of course possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyglucoside, in which R more particularly represents an oleyl radical (unsaturated radical in Cl8) or isostearyl (saturated radical in Cl8), G denotes glucose, x is a value ranging from 1 to 2, in particular isostearyl-glucoside, oleyl-glucoside, and their mixtures.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is an alkylpolyxyloside, in which R more particularly represents an octyldodecyl radical, G denotes xylose and x is equal to 1, of formula:

Advantageously, the alkylpolyglycoside is present in a content ranging from 0.03 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.8% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, per relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside can be used in admixture with a co-emulsifier, more especially with at least one fatty alcohol, and in particular a fatty alcohol comprising from 14 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably an alcohol fatty having the same alkyl chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture formed by the surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type and fatty alcohol is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly from 0.2 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably, from 0.4 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the alkylppolyglycoside is chosen from compounds whose HLB (hydrophylic-lipohilic-balance) is less than or equal to 7. The values of HLB are defined within the meaning of GRIFFIN (J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 ( volume 5), pages 249-256).

In a particular embodiment, when the alkylpolyglycoside is isostearylglucoside, it is advantageously mixed with isostearyl alcohol. Such a mixture is in particular marketed under the name Montanov WO18 by the company SEPPIC.

In another embodiment, when the alkylpolyglycoside is oleylglucoside, it is advantageously mixed with oleyl alcohol, optionally in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO92 / 06778.

In another embodiment of the invention, when the alkylpolyglycoside is octyldodecylxyloside, it is advantageously mixed with octyldodecanol.

Thus, advantageously, the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I) is such that the radical R is a linear or branched C18-C22 alkyl radical, preferably an octyldodecyl radical; and G represents xylose. Thus, in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside is octyldodecylxyloside and the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol. Such a mixture is in particular marketed under the name FLUIDANOV 20X by the company SEPPIC (consisting of approximately 20 to 30% of octyldodecylxyloside and approximately 70 to 80% of octyldodecanol).

In such an embodiment of the invention, the amount of octyldodecylxyloside used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecylxyloside and octyldodecanol.

Similarly, the amount of octyldodecanol used in the composition according to the invention ranges from 70 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of octyldodecylxyloside and octyldodecanol.

ADDITIONAL SURFACTANT

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from the group formed by polyethoxylated mono- and diesters of hydroxyl acids, (poly) alkoxylated (C2-C3) esters ) or (poly) glycerolated; sugar esters optionally (poly) alkoxylated (C2-C3) as well as polyol ethers, for example mono- or polyether Cx-Cbo. saturated or not, of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not; compounds comprising at least one C10-C26 group, saturated or not, linear or branched; the number of alkoxylated groups, more particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated, or alternatively glycerolated, being such that the HLB value of the additional surfactant is less than 7. As an indication, their number is between 1 and 40.

Preferably, the additional surfactant is chosen from diesters of polyethoxylated polyhydroxystearates.

In a particular embodiment, the additional surfactant used is the polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate marketed by the company Croda under the name ARLACEL P135 or the product with the name INCI PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate marketed by the company Croda under the name CITHROL DPHS-SO (MV ).

It should be noted that there is a commercial product comprising both octyldodecyl xyloside, octyldodecanol and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (EASYNOV, from SEPPIC).

The content of additional surfactant advantageously represents from 0.02 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a silicone surfactant, more particularly a nonionic surfactant, in particular of the type of polyoxyalkylenated polydimethylsiloxane (in C2-C3).

NON-VOLATILE OIL

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

More particularly, the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar or non-polar, as well as their mixtures; and preferably from polar non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, alone or in mixtures.

“Oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil.

By "silicone oil" is meant within the meaning of the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term “non-volatile” denotes oils whose vapor pressure is less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa (measurement according to OECD standard 104 of 07/27/95).

Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil.

It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free from heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

In the present case, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one oxygen atom.

In particular, this non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil comprises at least one alcohol function (it is then an "alcohol oil") or at least one ester function (it is then a "ester oil").

The ester oils which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can in particular be hydroxylated.

Thus, the composition comprises one or more non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from:

- C10-C26 alcohols, preferably monoalcohols;

More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, branched or not, and contain from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms.

By way of examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic origin, or even natural, such as, for example, alcohols from plant materials (copra, palm kernel, palm ...) or animal (suet ...).

Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as for example ether-alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

Finally, it is also possible to use certain more or less long cuts of alcohols of natural origin, such as for example coconut (C12 to Ci6) or tallow (Ci6 to Cis) or compounds such as diols or cholesterol.

By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used as preferred, mention may especially be made of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and their mixtures.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

- monoesters, diesters, triesters, optionally hydroxylated, of a mono or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of an alcohol in C2-C8.

In particular :

* the monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, * the diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and of a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate,, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate, * the triesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic triacid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate.

- the esters of a C2-C8 polyol and of one or more C2-C8 carboxylic acids, such as glycol and monoacid diesters, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, or glycol and monoacid triesters such than triacetin.

- ester oils, in particular having between 17 and 70 carbon atoms.

By way of example, mention may be made of mono-, di- or tri-esters.

The ester oils can be hydroxylated or not.

The non-volatile ester oil can be chosen, for example, from:

* monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not , and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is> 17, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, benzoate C12 to C15 alcohol, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl palmitate -hexyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate , 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.

Preferably, these are the esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms , Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is> 17.

Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total.

As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;

* fatty acid monoesters, in particular from 18 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, and diols, such as propylene glycol monoisostearate .

* diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use the diesters of dicarboxylic acid and of monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or the diesters of glycol and of mono carboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or 2-polyglyceryl diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);

* hydroxylated monoesters and diesters, preferably having a total number of carbon ranging from 18 to 70, such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate , glycerin stearate;

* the triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as the triesters of carboxylic triacid, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or the triesters of glycol and of mono carboxylic acids such as triisostearate polyglycerol-2;

* tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a mono carboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl of tetraisostearate, teteasononanoate pentaerythrityl, glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or alternatively pentaerythrityl tetra-decyl-2 tetradecanoate;

* the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made, as such, of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or alternatively the copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA;

* the esters and polyesters of dimer diol and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as the esters of dimer diol and of fatty acid and the esters of dimer diols and of dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular which can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid in particular in Cx to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in Cis, such as the esters of dilinoleic acids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those sold by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®;

* the polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid (s) with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated such as castor oil succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zénitech;

* vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil, in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example such as that sold under the reference Myritol 318 from Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerol trioctanoate, acid triglycerides Cis-36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, as well as unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, oil olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil (s) are chosen from C10-C26 monoalcohols, ester oils, and in particular monoesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms in total, diesters, hydroxylated or not, comprising at least at least 18 carbon atoms in total, triesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, tetraesters, in particular having at least 35 carbon atoms, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, as well as their mixtures.

Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

As regards non-volatile nonpolar oils, there may be mentioned very particularly paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosan, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes hydrogenated or not, polydecenes hydrogenated or not, copolymers of decene / butene , polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, as well as their mixtures.

Non-volatile silicone oils

As regards non-volatile silicone oils, non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils can be mentioned, for example, such as polydimethylsiloxanes.

Mention may also be made of phenylated silicone oils, such as for example diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, or tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, as well as their mixtures.

Advantageously, the non-volatile silicone oil does not comprise an oxyalkylenated group (s) at C2-C3 (oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated), or a glycerolated group (s).

In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, alone or in mixtures.

Thus, as indicated above, the composition comprises at least one C10-C26 alcohol, preferably C14-C24, preferably having the same alkyl chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I).

The content of non-volatile oils represents more particularly from 4 to 69% by weight, preferably from 7 to 50% by weight, and even more advantageously from 8 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

VOLATILE OILS

The composition according to the invention can optionally comprise at least one volatile oil.

By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, oils having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa ), in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based, or silicone-based.

Mention may in particular be made, among volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms such as branched alkanes at Cx-Cir, such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) at Cs-C16, isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is in particular isohexadecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane mixtures ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and their mixtures, as well as ethers having at most 16 carbon atoms, such as, for example, dicaprylylether.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As volatile cyclic silicone oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Advantageously, if the composition comprises them, the content of volatile oil (s) is between 0.5 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

RAINCOATS)

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one silicone wax, or a hydrocarbon, polar or nonpolar wax.

The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 30 ° C, more particularly above 45 ° C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90 ° C, more particularly less than or equal to 80 ° C, and preferably less than or equal to 70 ° C.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q100" by the company TA Instruments with the software "TA Universal Analysis ”.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of solid fat approximately 5 mg is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule crucible

The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 2 ° C / minute to 80 ° C, then left in the isotherm of 100 ° C for 20 minutes , then is cooled from 120 ° C to - 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 2 ° C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from 0 ° C to 20 ° C at a heating rate of 2 ° C / minute.

The value of the melting point of the solid fatty substance is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

Polar hydrocarbon waxes

More particularly, the polar wax is chosen from ester hydrocarbon waxes, alcohol hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes, as well as their mixtures.

By “hydrocarbon wax” is meant a wax formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes can also be hydroxylated.

By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). The additional alcohol wax does not in particular include an ester function.

By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

Ester waxes

One can in particular use as ester wax:

- ester waxes such as those chosen from:

i) the waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose point temperature melting ranges from 30 to 120 ° C, preferably from 30 to 100 ° C. In particular, it is possible to use, as ester wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and of alcohols such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MBAL", "Crodamol MS PA" from the CRODA company, "Miraceti" of LASERSON company.

One can also use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.

ii) di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T4S® by the company HETERENE.

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R ³ - (- OCO-R ⁴ -COO-R ⁵ ), in which R ³ and R ⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical and represent an alkyl group in C4-C30 (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R ⁴ represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) linear or branched and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations . Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. As waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, mention may be made of those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57".

v) animal or vegetable waxes, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, '' Ouricury, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, waxes Orange and Lemon, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined.

vi) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in

C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated camauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenic or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl3 Esters.

vii) Waxes corresponding to partial or total, preferably total, esters of a C16-C30 carboxylic acid, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters is meant that all of the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenine (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, there may be mentioned the triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, sold by Elementis Specialties.

viii) as well as their mixtures.

Alcohol waxes

As alcohol wax, mention may be made of alcohols, preferably linear, preferably saturated, comprising from 16 to 60 carbon atoms, the melting point of which is between 25 ° C. and 90 ° C. As examples of alcohol wax, mention may be made of stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, palmitic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof. .

Apolar hydrocarbon waxes

The composition can optionally comprise at least one additional wax chosen from apolar hydrocarbon waxes.

By “apolar hydrocarbon wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax comprising only carbon or hydrogen atoms in its structure. In other words, such a wax is free from other atoms, in particular from heteroatoms such as, for example, nitrogen, oxygen, silicon.

By way of illustration of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by the synthesis of Fischer-Tropsch, micro-waxes, in particular polyethylene.

Silicone waxes

As silicone wax, mention may be made, for example, of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane type (INCI name), for example the product Dow Coming SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by the company Dow Coming. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone type (INCI name), such as for example the product Dow Coming® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of silicone beeswax.

The composition according to the invention can comprise a content of wax (es), preferably polar (s), preferably hydrocarbon (s), is between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 6 % by weight, and preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

PASTY COMPOUNDS

The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature.

The term “pasty fatty substance” within the meaning of the invention means fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., preferably 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0, 1 to 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured with Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz.

Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, from the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, based on their general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; they can also be chosen from silicone compounds; they can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds.

In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds are preferably used (containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, more particularly in the form of ester groups), in the majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds capable of being used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa .s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and their mixtures. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 ° C and / or viscosity at 40 ° C ranging from 0, 1 to 40 Pa.s) such as triisostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of plant origin such as partially or fully hydrogenated vegetable oils, butters of plant origin, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures.

May also be suitable as pasty, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold in particular under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; or the diol dimer and diacid dimer esters, if necessary, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular the dilinoleate dimer esters ; such as products marketed under the brand name Plandool (bisbehenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S)).

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-5 5 ° C., such as stearyls. dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Coming under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compound (s), preferably polar (s), preferably hydrocarbon (s), of between 0.5 and 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 6 % by weight, and preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition

LIPOPHILIC THICKENERS

The composition according to the invention can thus comprise at least one lipophilic thickener.

The term “lipophilic thickener” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of thickening the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The lipophilic thickener is therefore present in the oily phase of the composition. The thickener is fat-soluble or lipodispersible.

As follows from what follows, the lipophilic thickener is advantageously chosen from particulate thickeners, silicas, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers, polyamides and their mixtures.

Particulate thickeners

As a representative of the lipophilic particulate thickeners suitable for the invention, mention may be made particularly of modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and polyamides.

Modified clays

Thus, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic modified clay.

The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites.

Preferably, as lipophilic clays, hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride are used, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.

Silica

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as thickener, a fumed silica or particles of silica airgel.

a) Pyrogenic silica

Particularly suitable for the invention, fumed silica treated hydrophobically at the surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. Silanol groups can in particular be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8 ^th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R812® references by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot.

- Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

b) Hydrophobic silica aerogels

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as thickener, at least particles of silica aerogels.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., And Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention more particularly have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g and better still from 600 at 800 m ² / g, and a size expressed in volume average diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 at 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

According to one embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a size expressed in mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm , better from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

The sizes of the silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention can advantageously have a packed density □ ranging from 0.02 g / cm ³ to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably from 0.03 g / cm ³ to 0, 08 g / cm ³ , in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ .

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then place the test piece on the STAV 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of packed powder is measured directly on the test-tube. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m ² / cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² / cm ³ and better from 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ .

The specific surface per unit of volume is given by the relation Sv = S _M xp where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm ³ and SM is the specific surface per unit of mass expressed in m ² / g, as defined more high.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 at 12 ml / g.

The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the intake of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue to add oil until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point, add the oil one drop at a time and then triturate the mixture with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be allowed to spread on the glass plate without cracks or lump formation. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil intake corresponds to the Vs / m ratio.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

By “hydrophobic silica” is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Regarding the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the name INCI Silica silylate, will be used.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Coming, whose particles have an average size of around 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200.

Preferably, the airgel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate) by the company Dow Coming will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

Dextrin esters

The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic thickener, at least one dextrin ester.

In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C12 to C24, in particular of C14 to Cis, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and C12-C18 fatty acid ester, in particular C14-C18.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that especially sold under the name of Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can for example be chosen from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

Hydrogen-bonded polymers

As a representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers which are suitable for the invention, mention may very particularly be made of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.

Polyamides

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and their mixtures.

By "polyamide" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 amide repeat units, preferably at least 3 amide repeat units and better still 10 amide repeat units.

a) Hydrocarbon polyamide

Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and better still from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.

This polyamide is not soluble in water, especially at 25 ° C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):

in which X represents a group -N (Ri) 2 or a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched alkyl radical in CL to C22, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of C28-C42 diacid dimer, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (la):

in which X represents a group -N (Ri) 2 in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of C28 diacid dimer C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5;

and their mixtures.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, additionally in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib):

X— | —G — R. ^ C — NH — FL — NH — G — R7 — G — XL II 2 H 3] „ _H 2 H ο ο ο o qjg in which X represents a group -ORi in which Ri is a linear or branched Cs to C22, preferably C16 to C22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a residue of C28-C42 diacid dimer, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or even Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is “ethylenediamine / stearyl copolymer dilinoleate dimer ".

b) Silicone polyamide

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The silicone polyamides can preferably be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV):

or

in which :

• R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

- linear, branched or cyclic, C1 to C40 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be partially or totally substituted by fluorine atoms,

- C 1 to C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups,

- the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, • the X, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene diyl group, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, • Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 to C 50 group, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or bear as one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C ₃ to C ₅ cycloalkyl, C ₁ to C 40 alkyl, aryl C5 to Cio, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 alkyl groups -C ₃ hydroxyalkyl, Ci to C ₃ alkyl and amino Ci-Ce, or

Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:

in which

- T represents a trivalent or tetravalent, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 hydrocarbon group optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and

- R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C1 to C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may contain one or more ester, amide, methane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide groups which may or may not be linked to a other chain of the polymer, • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.

According to a particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) where m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.

More preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a linear or branched C1 to C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, nC, Hi or isopropyl group in formula (III).

As an example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by the company Dow Coming under the name DC 28179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is “Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers”, ie Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 ° C and better still from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

Mention may also be made of particles of polyamide Nylon 6, of Nylon 6-6 of Nylon 12 or of Nylon 6-12, in particular particles of Nylon-12, having an average particle diameter of 20 μιη. marketed in particular by the company ARKEMA under the trade name ORGASOL 2002 D NATCOS 204.

The lipophilic thickener (s) can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 7% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The composition according to the invention comprises of Lean, optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with Lean (miscibility in greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3 and C4 ketones and aldehydes in C2-C4, and preferably lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol.

The water content varies from 30 to 95% by weight, preferably from 40 to 90%, and even more particularly from 50 to 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

The content of water-soluble solvent (s) chosen from C2-C5 monoalcohols, if the composition comprises it, is between 0 (limit excluded) and 20% by weight, preferably between 0 (limit excluded) and 15% by weight, even more particularly between 0 (limit excluded) and 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not include the above-mentioned water-soluble solvent (s).

C ₂ -C ₈ LIQUID POLYOLS

According to another alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one liquid polyol in C2-C ₈ , more particularly in C2-C6.

By "polyol" should be understood, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

The polyol according to the present invention is therefore in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four -OH functions.

Advantageously, the polyol can for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol , pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one liquid polyol in C2-C ₈ , and preferably glycerin.

The said polyol (s) is / are generally present in the composition in an amount of at least 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROPHILIC THICKENERS

As indicated above, the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener.

The term “hydrophilic thickener” within the meaning of the present invention means a compound capable of thickening the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The thickener can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

The hydrophilic thickener can be chosen from natural or naturally occurring polymeric thickeners, synthetic polymeric thickeners and mixtures thereof.

Natural or natural polymeric thickeners

The hydrophilic polymeric thickeners suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to denote the polymeric thickeners obtained by modification of the natural polymeric thickeners.

These thickeners can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these thickeners fall under the category of polysaccharides.

Generally speaking, polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they can be linear polysaccharides like Pullulan or branched like Arabian Gum and Amylopectin, or mixed like Starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.

By way of example of non-starchy polysaccharides, there may be mentioned carrageenans, in particular kappa-carraghenane, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular the sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts such as the sodium salt, such as sodium hyaluronate.

Synthetic polymeric thickeners

Within the meaning of the invention, the term synthetic signifies that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor does it derive from a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic thickener considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term particulate means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

As is clear from what follows, the hydrophilic polymeric thickener is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or co-polymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

Particulate synthetic polymeric thickeners

They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

They may especially be cross-linked acrylic homopolymers or co-polymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form.

According to one embodiment, the particulate thickener according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates. Preferably, it has, in the dry or non-hydrated state, an average size less than or equal to 100 μm, preferably less than or equal to 50 μm. The average particle size corresponds to the mass average diameter (D50) measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, preferably, the particulate thickener according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles.

By way of example of crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, mention may be made of those sold under the names Octacare XI00, XI10 and RM 100 by the company Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those marketed under the names names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1110 by BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium acrylate copolymer) by Grain Processing.

Mention may also be made of crosslinked polyacrylate microspheres such as, for example, those marketed under the name AQUAKEEP® 10 SH NF offered by the company Sumitomo Seika.

Non-particulate synthetic polymeric thickeners

This family of thickeners can be broken down into the following sub-families:

1. Associative polymers,

2. Polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2- acrylamido-2 methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized, and

3. Carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not.

More particularly, the polymers used which are suitable as an aqueous thickener for the invention can be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the monomer acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), in partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia, such as soda or potash.

They are preferably completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mole to 10,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 80,000 g / mole to 8,000,000 g / mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polydimethyltauramide) than those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

- crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate /

Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;

- the copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (name CTFA: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized by soda or potash ;

- AMPS® and sodium acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

- the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methylpropane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate ).

Mention may also be made of the polymer with the name INCI: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer such as that sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade name SEPIPLUS ™ 265 (INCI: Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer (And) Polyisobutene (And) Polysorbate 20).

The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids containing a, b-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) containing ethylenic unsaturation comprising a hydrophobic group.

Among said polymers above, very particularly preferred according to the present invention, acrylate / Cio-Cso-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / Cio-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates being in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be chosen from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers.

By “(meth) acrylic” within the meaning of the present application, one understands “acrylic or methacrylic”.

By way of example, mention may be made of those sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol, 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name Synthalen® K, Synthalen® L, or Synthalen® M.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may in particular be made of Carbopol (name CTFA: carbomer) and Pemulen (name CTFA: Acrylates / Cio-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.

The hydrophilic thickener (s) can be used at a rate of 0.1 to 7% by weight, and in particular from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NACRES

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mother-of-pearl.

By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

Among the nacres available on the market, there may be mentioned the Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome nacres (on the basis of mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the Timiron nacres marketed by the company Merck, the nacres on the basis of Prestige mica marketed by the company Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by Sun Chemical.

By way of examples, mention may be made of the gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with reflection silvery in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish orange-green pearl-green in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the nacres in accordance with the invention are the micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the nacres are chosen from those having an average particle size (corresponding to the D50 (average diameter, measured by laser granulometry or other equivalent method known to those skilled in the art) of at least minus 70pm, preferably at least lOOpm.

In particular, such nacres can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15%, by weight, and even more particularly from 5 to 12 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Pigments

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one pigment. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

The term “pigments” means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous or oily medium, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

These pigments can be coated or uncoated mineral pigments.

Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, titanium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.

These pigments can also be organic pigments.

The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment (s) can be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments green codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as they sound t described in patent LR 2,679,771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed or precipitated on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Advantageously, the pigments may have been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

The hydrophobic treatment agent can for example be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyoxides of hexafluoropropylene, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl groups perfluoropolyethers, amino acids ; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zin, sodium, potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are in particular described in application EP-A-1086683. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

We can also mention the products, as well as their lacquers, known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pigment or pigments have been the subject of a hydrophobic treatment.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 6% by weight, and even more particularly from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition contains both one or more nacres on the one hand, and one or more pigments on the other hand, preferably the pigments are organic pigments which have optionally undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment, and / or mineral pigments, preferably having undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment. According to this embodiment, the content of nacres in the composition preferably represents from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and the pigment content is advantageously between 2 and 5% by weight, relative the weight of the composition.

EXPENSES

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in make-up and / or care compositions. Note that the fillers are neither pigments nor nacres.

These fillers are colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Mineral or organic in nature, natural or synthetic, they give the composition containing them smoothness, mattness and uniformity to make-up. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat.

By way of illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, powders of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), copolymers of acrylic acid, microbeads of silicone resin (Tospearls® from Toshiba , for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydro-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, fillers composites, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. Particles can also be used, which have the shape of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, such fillers can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.3 to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight, and preferably from 2 to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent, for example chosen from anti-UV agents, vitamins, chelating agents, etc.

It is routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

More particularly, one can prepare according to conventional methods in the field, on the one hand the aqueous phase; on the other hand, the fatty phase; the nacres and, where appropriate, the pigments and / or the fillers representing the third particulate phase.

It should be noted that these steps can be carried out at ambient temperature or at a temperature sufficient to promote the production of a homogeneous phase. For example, the fatty phase, when it comprises at least one solid compound, such as a wax or a pasty compound, is advantageously prepared at a temperature higher than the melting point of the compound or compounds.

It should be noted that it is possible to use the mixture of nacres / pigments and fillers, as is, or else, in premix with a fraction of the fatty phase.

The aqueous phase, preferably thickened beforehand by dispersing the hydrophilic thickener in water, is then mixed with the fatty phase.

Once the mixing has been carried out, the particulate phase is introduced, possibly comprising part of the fatty phase, and the whole is homogenized.

Once the composition has been obtained, it is packaged in an appropriate device in the field, whether or not provided with stirring means (for example beads in the container where the composition is stored).

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions "ranging between ... and ..." and "going from ... to ..." must be understood bounds included, unless otherwise specified.

In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in percentage by mass.

EXAMPLE

In the following table, the amount of each compound is given in% w / w of the composition (the percentages are expressed by weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).

Composition:

al dimethicone (XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS, Dow Coming) 1.3 Beeswax (WHITE DABEILLE WAX; Koster Keunen); 1.3 A2 Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil (APRICOT KERNEL OIL REFINED, Natrurex) 2.2 Dicaprylyl ether 1.3 Isopropyl palmitate 1.3 PEG-30 dipolyhydroxy stearate (CITHROL DPHS-SO; Croda) 0.5 Octyldodecanol (and) octyldodecyl xyloside (Fluidanov, SEPPIC) 1.3 B1 Water Qsp 100% Glycerin 7 B2 conservatives qs Sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (and) isohexadecane (and) polysorbate 80 (Simulgel EG®, SEPPIC) 1.5 VS Nylon 12 (TEGOLON 12-20 L; Arkema) 0.4 Silica (Sunsphere H51, AGC SI-TECH) 3.1 D nacre 9 Hydrophobic treated pigment 4

Preparation:

- phase A (fatty phase):

The components of phase A are weighed and heated to a temperature necessary to dissolve them, the phase obtained is homogeneous.

- of phase B (aqueous phase):

The components of phase B1 are weighed then the thickener (phase B2) is dispersed and then stirred Rayneri in order to obtain a gelling of phase B.

- of the emulsion phase A is poured onto phase B under slow stirring (300 rpm) in order to gradually incorporate the fatty phase. After the introduction, the agitation speed is increased.

Finally phases C, then D are added.

Phase E is added with gentle stirring (300 rpm) then the speed is gradually increased (500 rpm).

Results

A creamy composition is obtained having intense, unique optical effects: an intense luminous color, with strong metallic optical effects.

It can be applied to the lips and provides original makeup effects.

The composition is easy to apply and provides a fresh effect.

The deposit obtained is comfortable, not very sticky.

Claims (20)

1. Composition for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips, in the form of an emulsion characterized in that it comprises: - At least 30% by weight of water, relative to the weight of the composition; - at least one non-volatile oil; at least one surfactant of alkylpolyglycoside type, having the following structure: R (O) (G) _X (I) in which the radical R is a linear or branched alkyl radical in C14-C24, preferably in C16-C24, and preferably C18-C24; G represents a reduced sugar comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glucose, fructose, xylose or galactose and preferably xylose, x denotes a value ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 4; - at least one mother-of-pearl. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the water content varies from 30 to 95% by weight, preferably from 40 to 90%, and even more particularly from 50 to 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I) is such that the radical R is a linear or branched C18-C22 alkyl radical, preferably an octyldodecyl radical; and G represents xylose. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of alkylpolyglycoside represents from 0.03 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.8% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional surfactant, preferably chosen from the group formed by polyethoxylated mono- and di-esters of hydroxy acids, esters (poly ) alkoxylated (C2-C3) or (poly) glycerolated; sugar esters optionally (poly) alkoxylated (C2-C3) as well as polyol ethers, such as in particular mono- or polyethers C8-C30, saturated or not, of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not; compounds comprising at least one C10C26 group, saturated or not, linear or branched; the number of alkoxylated groups, more particularly ethoxylated or propoxylated, or alternatively glycerolated, being such that the HLB value of the additional surfactant is less than 7; and preferably from the diesters of polyethoxylated polyhydroxystearates. 6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of additional surfactant represents from 0.02 to 4% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by weight. weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, polar or non-polar, as well as their mixtures; and preferably from polar non-volatile oils, in particular chosen from C10-C26 alcohols, ester oils, vegetable oils, alone or in mixtures. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one alcohol of C10-C26, preferably of C14-C24, preferably having the same alkyl chain as that of the alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I ). 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oils represents from 4 to 69% by weight, preferably from 7 to 50% by weight, more particularly from 8 to 30% by weight. weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic thickener, preferably chosen from synthetic polymeric thickeners, natural or naturally occurring polymeric thickeners, and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of hydrophilic thickener represents from 0.1 to 7% by weight and particularly from 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one liquid polyol in C2-C8, more particularly in C2-C6, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups , preferably chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the liquid polyol content in C2-C8 is at least 5% by weight and more particularly represents from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax, preferably chosen from polar waxes, more particularly polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably at a content of between 0.5 and 10 % by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 6% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 4% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one filler, preferably at a content ranging from 0.3% to less than 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 7% , weight, and preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one pigment, the latter preferably being chosen from organic pigments, mineral pigments, said pigments having optionally been surface-treated, in particular by hydrophobic treatment. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pigment (s) represents from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 6% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of nacre (s) represents from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more precisely from 5 at 12% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or their mixtures; preferably at a content of between 0 (limit excluded) and 20% by weight, preferably between 0 (limit excluded) and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 20. Process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin or the lips, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 at 21.